TW202229677A - Manufacturing method of warp knitted fabric with floating yarn and warp knitted fabric with floating yarn - Google Patents
Manufacturing method of warp knitted fabric with floating yarn and warp knitted fabric with floating yarn Download PDFInfo
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- TW202229677A TW202229677A TW110102373A TW110102373A TW202229677A TW 202229677 A TW202229677 A TW 202229677A TW 110102373 A TW110102373 A TW 110102373A TW 110102373 A TW110102373 A TW 110102373A TW 202229677 A TW202229677 A TW 202229677A
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本發明係提供一種經編織物的製造方法及經編織物,尤其是有關一種具有浮紗效果的經編織物的製造方法及經編織物。The present invention provides a method for producing a warp knitted fabric and a warp knitted fabric, and particularly relates to a method for producing a warp knitted fabric with a floating yarn effect and the warp knitted fabric.
現有的經編織物大多僅具有平面效果,或者僅具有單一的提花效果。有相關業者開發出在同一布面上展現不同提花效果的編織物及編織方法,但在進行編織時,需配合不同的提花效果而單獨進行整經及穿紗的工序,耗費大量的人力,且大幅地增加了其生產成本。此外,為了獲得更多的提花效果,而穿入更多的紗線,從而增加了編織物的重量。Most of the existing warp knitted fabrics only have a flat effect, or only a single jacquard effect. Some related companies have developed knitted fabrics and knitting methods that show different jacquard effects on the same cloth surface. However, when knitting, the warping and yarn threading processes need to be carried out separately according to different jacquard effects, which consumes a lot of manpower, and Significantly increased its production costs. In addition, in order to obtain more jacquard effect, more yarn is threaded, which increases the weight of the knitted fabric.
有鑑於此,如何利用簡便的製程達到豐富編織物的提花效果的特性,遂成為相關業者努力的目標。In view of this, how to use a simple manufacturing process to enrich the characteristics of the jacquard effect of the knitted fabric has become the goal of the relevant industry.
為了達到上述目標,本發明提供一種經編浮紗織物的製造方法,透過設定提花單元之原始墊紗組織的墊紗數碼為重複數碼,藉以使提花單元可在同一布面編織成成圈組織及不成圈組織,以令提花單元可在經編浮紗織物上展現不同的提花效果。In order to achieve the above goal, the present invention provides a manufacturing method of warp knitted floating yarn fabric, by setting the yarn laying number of the original laying yarn structure of the jacquard unit as a repeating number, so that the jacquard unit can be woven into a loop structure on the same fabric surface and No loop weave, so that the jacquard unit can display different jacquard effects on warp-knitted float fabrics.
本發明之一實施方式提供一種經編浮紗織物的製造方法,包含配置步驟、地梳編織步驟以及提花編織步驟。在配置步驟中,將第一地梳單元、提花單元及第二地梳單元依序配置於單針床機台。在地梳編織步驟中,將第一地梳單元及第二地梳單元編織成基布。在提花編織步驟中,控制提花單元在偶數橫列及奇數橫列的偏移狀態,並包含將提花單元成圈地編織於基布,將提花單元不成圈地編織於基布,使提花單元不受第一地梳單元及第二地梳單元壓制,並形成浮紗結構,其中提花單元具有原始墊紗組織,原始墊紗組織的墊紗數碼為重複數碼。An embodiment of the present invention provides a manufacturing method of a warp knitted floating yarn fabric, which includes an arrangement step, a ground comb knitting step, and a jacquard knitting step. In the arranging step, the first ground comb unit, the jacquard unit and the second ground comb unit are sequentially arranged on the single needle bed machine. In the ground comb weaving step, the first ground comb unit and the second ground comb unit are woven into a base fabric. In the jacquard knitting step, the offset state of the jacquard units in the even-numbered courses and the odd-numbered courses is controlled, and includes knitting the jacquard units on the base fabric in a loop, and knitting the jacquard units on the base fabric without loops, so that the jacquard units are not looped. It is pressed by the first ground comb unit and the second ground comb unit to form a floating yarn structure, wherein the jacquard unit has an original laying yarn organization, and the laying number of the original laying yarn organization is a repeating number.
依據前述實施方式之經編浮紗織物的製造方法,其中在配置步驟中,可將提花單元連接紗架機台,且紗架機台以消極方式送紗給提花單元。According to the manufacturing method of the warp-knitted floating yarn fabric according to the foregoing embodiment, in the disposing step, the jacquard unit may be connected to the creel table, and the creel table feeds the yarn to the jacquard unit in a passive manner.
依據前述實施方式之經編浮紗織物的製造方法,其中第一地梳單元或第二地梳單元可為透明單絲紗線。According to the manufacturing method of the warp knitted floating yarn fabric according to the foregoing embodiment, the first ground comb unit or the second ground comb unit may be transparent monofilament yarns.
依據前述實施方式之經編浮紗織物的製造方法,其中在地梳編織步驟中,可將第一地梳單元編織成密紋組織,可將第二地梳單元編織成編鏈組織。According to the manufacturing method of the warp knitted floating yarn fabric according to the foregoing embodiment, in the step of knitting the ground combs, the first ground comb units can be woven into a dense weave, and the second ground comb units can be woven into a chain weave.
依據前述實施方式之經編浮紗織物的製造方法,其中在提花編織步驟中,可將提花單元編織成成圈組織。According to the manufacturing method of the warp knitted floating yarn fabric according to the foregoing embodiment, in the jacquard knitting step, the jacquard elements can be knitted into a loop structure.
依據前述實施方式之經編浮紗織物的製造方法,其中提花編織步驟可控制偏移狀態為提花單元在奇數橫列不偏移,在偶數橫列偏移,以形成浮紗結構,且浮紗結構外露於基布之表面;可控制偏移狀態為提花單元在奇數橫列不偏移,在偶數橫列不偏移,以形成浮紗結構,浮紗結構外露於基布之另一表面;以及可控制偏移狀態為提花單元在奇數橫列偏移,在偶數橫列不偏移,使提花單元受第一地梳單元或第二地梳單元壓制而不外露於經編浮紗織物之所述表面及所述另一表面。According to the manufacturing method of the warp-knitted floating yarn fabric according to the foregoing embodiment, the jacquard knitting step can control the offset state such that the jacquard units are not offset in the odd-numbered courses, and are offset in the even-numbered courses to form a floating yarn structure, and the floating yarns The structure is exposed on the surface of the base fabric; the offset state can be controlled so that the jacquard unit does not shift in the odd-numbered courses, and does not shift in the even-numbered courses, so as to form a floating yarn structure, and the floating yarn structure is exposed on the other surface of the base fabric; And the controllable offset state is that the jacquard unit is offset in the odd-numbered courses, and does not shift in the even-numbered courses, so that the jacquard unit is pressed by the first ground comb unit or the second ground comb unit and is not exposed to the warp knitted floating yarn fabric. the surface and the other surface.
本發明之另一實施方式提供一種經編浮紗織物,包含基布、提花單元、提花區、浮紗區以及鏤空區。基布係由第一地梳單元及第二地梳單元編織而成。提花單元連接基布。提花區設置於基布之至少一表面,且提花單元在提花區成圈地編織於基布。浮紗區設置於基布之至少一表面,提花單元在浮紗區不成圈地編織於基布。鏤空區與提花區或浮紗區鄰接,提花單元在鏤空區不成圈地編織於基布,且提花單元受第一地梳單元或第二地梳單元壓制而不外露於經編浮紗織物之表面。Another embodiment of the present invention provides a warp knitted floating yarn fabric, which includes a base fabric, a jacquard unit, a jacquard area, a floating yarn area and a hollow area. The base fabric is woven from the first ground comb unit and the second ground comb unit. The jacquard unit is connected to the base fabric. The jacquard area is arranged on at least one surface of the base fabric, and the jacquard unit is woven on the base fabric in a circle in the jacquard area. The floating yarn area is arranged on at least one surface of the base fabric, and the jacquard unit is woven on the base fabric without looping in the floating yarn area. The hollow area is adjacent to the jacquard area or the floating yarn area, and the jacquard unit is woven on the base fabric without looping in the hollow area, and the jacquard unit is pressed by the first ground comb unit or the second ground comb unit without being exposed on the warp knitted floating yarn fabric. surface.
依據前述實施方式之經編浮紗織物,其中第一地梳單元或第二地梳單元可為透明單絲紗線。According to the warp-knitted float fabric according to the foregoing embodiments, the first ground comb unit or the second ground comb unit may be a transparent monofilament yarn.
依據前述實施方式之經編浮紗織物,其中第一地梳單元可為密紋組織,第二地梳單元可為編鏈組織。According to the warp-knitted floating yarn fabric according to the foregoing embodiments, the first ground comb unit may be a dense weave, and the second ground comb unit may be a chain weave.
本發明之一實施方式提供另一種經編浮紗織物的製造方法,包含配置步驟、地梳編織步驟以及提花編織步驟。在配置步驟中,將前地梳組、後地梳組及提花單元設置於雙針床機台,前地梳組設置於雙針床機台之前針床,後地梳組設置於雙針床機台之後針床,提花單元設置於前針床與後針床之間。在地梳編織步驟中,將前地梳組在前針床編織成前布,將後地梳組在後針床編織成後布,且前布及後布之間形成中間層。在提花編織步驟中,控制提花單元在偶數橫列及奇數橫列的偏移狀態,並包含將提花單元在前針床及後針床之間編織,並將提花單元成圈地編織於前布及後布,以使前布與後布連接;以及將提花單元不成圈地編織於前布或後布,以使提花單元不受前地梳組及後地梳組壓制,並形成浮紗結構。其中提花單元具有原始墊紗組織,提花單元之原始墊紗組織的墊紗數碼為重複數碼。An embodiment of the present invention provides another manufacturing method of a warp knitted floating yarn fabric, which includes an arrangement step, a ground comb knitting step, and a jacquard knitting step. In the configuration step, the front ground comb group, the rear ground comb group and the jacquard unit are set on the double needle bed machine, the front ground comb set is set on the front needle bed of the double needle bed machine, and the rear ground comb set is set on the double needle bed The back needle bed of the machine, the jacquard unit is arranged between the front needle bed and the back needle bed. In the ground comb knitting step, the front ground comb group is knitted into the front cloth on the front needle bed, the rear ground comb group is knitted into the rear cloth on the rear needle bed, and an intermediate layer is formed between the front cloth and the rear cloth. In the jacquard knitting step, the offset state of the jacquard unit in the even course and the odd course is controlled, and the jacquard unit is knitted between the front needle bed and the rear needle bed, and the jacquard unit is knitted on the front cloth in a circle and the back cloth, so that the front cloth and the back cloth are connected; and the jacquard unit is woven on the front cloth or the back cloth without looping, so that the jacquard unit is not pressed by the front and rear card groups, and forms a floating yarn structure . The jacquard unit has the original underlay weave, and the underlay number of the original underlay weave of the jacquard unit is a repeating number.
依據前述實施方式之經編浮紗織物的製造方法,其中在配置步驟中,可將提花單元連接紗架機台,且紗架機台以消極方式送紗給提花單元。According to the manufacturing method of the warp-knitted floating yarn fabric according to the foregoing embodiment, in the disposing step, the jacquard unit may be connected to the creel table, and the creel table feeds the yarn to the jacquard unit in a passive manner.
依據前述實施方式之經編浮紗織物的製造方法,其中前地梳組或後地梳組可為透明單絲紗線。According to the manufacturing method of the warp knitted floating yarn fabric according to the foregoing embodiment, the front card group or the rear card group can be transparent monofilament yarns.
依據前述實施方式之經編浮紗織物的製造方法,其中在提花編織步驟中,可將提花單元編織成雙面成圈組織。According to the manufacturing method of the warp knitted floating yarn fabric according to the foregoing embodiment, in the jacquard knitting step, the jacquard elements can be knitted into a double-sided loop structure.
依據前述實施方式之經編浮紗織物的製造方法,其中提花編織步驟中可更包含控制偏移狀態為提花單元在奇數橫列不偏移,在偶數橫列不偏移,以形成浮紗結構,且提花單元不受前地梳組及後地梳組壓制。According to the manufacturing method of the warp-knitted floating yarn fabric according to the aforementioned embodiment, the jacquard knitting step may further include controlling the offset state so that the jacquard units are not offset in odd-numbered courses and do not shift in even-numbered courses, so as to form a floating yarn structure , and the jacquard unit is not pressed by the front comb group and the rear comb group.
依據前述實施方式之經編浮紗織物的製造方法,其中浮紗結構位於中間層、前布之表面或後布之表面。According to the manufacturing method of the warp-knitted floating yarn fabric according to the aforementioned embodiment, the floating yarn structure is located on the middle layer, the surface of the front cloth or the surface of the rear cloth.
依據前述實施方式之經編浮紗織物的製造方法,其中提花編織步驟可更包含控制偏移狀態為提花單元在奇數橫列偏移,在偶數橫列不偏移,以形成浮紗結構,且浮紗結構位於中間層。According to the manufacturing method of the warp-knitted floating yarn fabric according to the aforementioned embodiment, the jacquard knitting step may further include controlling the offset state such that the jacquard units are offset in odd-numbered courses and are not offset in even-numbered courses, so as to form a floating yarn structure, and The floating yarn structure is located in the middle layer.
依據前述實施方式之經編浮紗織物的製造方法,其中提花編織步驟可更包含控制提花單元在後針床編織,並控制偏移狀態為提花單元在奇數橫列中的至少一橫列或偶數橫列中的至少一橫列偏移,以使提花單元受後地梳組壓制而不外露於前布及後布。According to the manufacturing method of the warp knitted floating yarn fabric according to the foregoing embodiment, the jacquard knitting step may further include controlling the jacquard unit to knit on the back needle bed, and controlling the offset state to be at least one course or an even number of the jacquard unit in the odd-numbered courses At least one of the courses is offset, so that the jacquard unit is pressed by the rear ground comb group without being exposed to the front cloth and the back cloth.
依據前述實施方式之經編浮紗織物的製造方法,其中在地梳編織步驟中,前地梳組可編織成對掛組織、對掛網孔組織、全密紋組織或編鏈組織。According to the manufacturing method of the warp knitted floating yarn fabric according to the foregoing embodiment, in the step of ground comb weaving, the front ground comb group can be woven into a paired weave, a paired mesh weave, a full dense weave or a chain weave.
依據前述實施方式之經編浮紗織物的製造方法,其中在地梳編織步驟中,後地梳組可編織成對掛組織、對掛網孔組織、全密紋組織或編鏈組織。According to the manufacturing method of the warp knitted floating yarn fabric according to the foregoing embodiment, in the step of knitting the ground combs, the rear ground comb group can be woven into a paired hanging weave, a paired hanging mesh weave, a full dense weave or a chain weave.
依據前述實施方式之經編浮紗織物的製造方法,可更包含網孔提花步驟,將網孔提花單元在前針床編織成開孔組織或跨長針密紋組織,並形成複數個開孔,使浮紗結構透過開孔顯現。According to the manufacturing method of the warp knitted floating yarn fabric according to the foregoing embodiment, it may further comprise a mesh jacquard step, knitting the mesh jacquard unit on the front needle bed into an open-hole weave or a cross-needle dense weave, and forming a plurality of openings, Make the float structure visible through the openings.
依據前述實施方式之經編浮紗織物的製造方法,其中提花單元的數量可為二,且所述二提花單元的顏色不相同。According to the manufacturing method of the warp-knitted floating yarn fabric according to the foregoing embodiment, the number of the jacquard units can be two, and the colors of the two jacquard units are different.
本發明之另一實施方式提供另一種經編浮紗織物,包含前布、後布、提花單元、提花區、浮紗區、透視區以以及鏤空區。前布由前地梳組編織而成,後布由後地梳組編織而成,後布連接前布,且前布與後布之前具有中間層。提花單元連接前布及後布。提花區設置於前布及後布,提花單元在提花區交替且成圈地編織於前布及後布。浮紗區設置於前布之表面或後布之表面,提花單元在浮紗區不成圈地編織於前布或後布,且提花單元不受前地梳組或後地梳組壓制,而外露於前布之表面或後布之表面。提花單元在透視區不成圈地編織於中間層,且提花單元不受前地梳組或後地梳組壓制。提花單元在鏤空區編織於前布或後布,並受到前地梳組或後地梳組壓制而不外露於前布及後布。Another embodiment of the present invention provides another warp-knitted floating yarn fabric, which includes a front cloth, a back cloth, a jacquard unit, a jacquard area, a floating yarn area, a see-through area, and a hollow area. The front cloth is woven from the front ground comb group, the rear cloth is woven from the rear ground comb group, the rear cloth is connected with the front cloth, and the front cloth and the rear cloth have an intermediate layer. The jacquard unit connects the front cloth and the back cloth. The jacquard area is arranged on the front cloth and the back cloth, and the jacquard units are alternately woven on the front cloth and the back cloth in a circle in the jacquard area. The floating yarn area is set on the surface of the front cloth or the surface of the back cloth, the jacquard unit is woven on the front cloth or the back cloth without looping in the floating yarn area, and the jacquard unit is not pressed by the front or rear card group, but exposed. On the surface of the front cloth or the surface of the back cloth. The jacquard elements are woven in the middle layer without loops in the see-through area, and the jacquard elements are not pressed by the front or rear comb groups. The jacquard unit is woven into the front or rear fabric in the hollow area, and is pressed by the front or rear comb group without being exposed to the front and rear fabrics.
依據前述實施方式之經編浮紗織物,其中前地梳組或後地梳組可為透明單絲紗線。According to the warp-knitted float fabric according to the foregoing embodiments, the front or rear card group may be transparent monofilament yarns.
依據前述實施方式之經編浮紗織物,其中前地梳組可為對掛組織、對掛網孔組織、全密紋組織或編鏈組織。According to the warp-knitted floating yarn fabric according to the foregoing embodiment, the front ground comb group can be a paired weave, a paired mesh weave, a full dense weave or a chain weave.
依據前述實施方式之經編浮紗織物,其中後地梳組可為對掛組織、對掛網孔組織、全密紋組織或編鏈組織。According to the warp-knitted floating yarn fabric according to the foregoing embodiment, the rear comb group can be a paired weave, a paired mesh weave, a full dense weave or a chain weave.
依據前述實施方式之經編浮紗織物,可更包含網孔提花單元,網孔提花單元連接前布或後布,其中網孔提花單元為開孔組織或跨長針密紋組織。The warp knitted floating yarn fabric according to the foregoing embodiments may further comprise a mesh jacquard unit, which is connected to the front fabric or the back fabric, wherein the mesh jacquard unit is an open-hole weave or a long-stitched dense weave.
依據前述實施方式之經編浮紗織物,可更包含開孔區,設置於前布或後布,開孔區具有複數個開孔,且提花單元透過開孔顯現。The warp-knitted floating yarn fabric according to the aforementioned embodiments may further include an opening area, which is disposed on the front cloth or the back cloth, the opening area has a plurality of openings, and the jacquard elements are exposed through the openings.
以下將參照圖式說明本發明之複數個實施例。為明確說明起見,許多實務上的細節將在以下敘述中一併說明。然而,應瞭解到,這些實務上的細節不應用以限制本發明。也就是說,在本發明部分實施例中,這些實務上的細節是非必要的。此外,為簡化圖式起見,一些習知慣用的結構與元件在圖式中將以簡單示意的方式繪示之;並且重複之元件將可能使用相同的編號表示之。Several embodiments of the present invention will be described below with reference to the drawings. For the sake of clarity, many practical details are set forth in the following description. It should be understood, however, that these practical details should not be used to limit the invention. That is, in some embodiments of the present invention, these practical details are unnecessary. In addition, for the purpose of simplifying the drawings, some well-known and conventional structures and elements will be shown in a simplified and schematic manner in the drawings; and repeated elements may be denoted by the same reference numerals.
請參閱第1圖,其繪示本發明一實施方式之一實施例的經編浮紗織物100的立體示意圖。經編浮紗織物100包含基布110、提花單元120、提花區130、浮紗區(未另標示)及鏤空區150,其中在第1圖中,浮紗區包含前浮紗區141及後浮紗區142。Please refer to FIG. 1 , which is a three-dimensional schematic diagram of a warp-knitted
基布110由第一地梳單元111(標示於第4圖)及第二地梳單元112(標示於第4圖)編織而成,提花單元120連接基布110。具體而言,透過提花單元120與基布110之第一地梳單元111及第二地梳單元112之間不同的編織關係,使提花單元120在經編浮紗織物100的表面展現不同的布面效果,並達到在同一塊布面上獲得成圈及變化浮紗並存的效果。The
仔細地說,提花區130設置於基布110之表面,提花單元120在提花區130成圈地編織於基布110,使提花單元120外露於基布110之正反兩面。Specifically, the
浮紗區設置於基布110之至少一表面,並與提花區130鄰接,其中前浮紗區141及後浮紗區142分別設置於基布110之不同表面。提花單元120在浮紗區不成圈地編織於基布110,且如第1圖所示,提花單元120不緊貼於基布110的表面,而使提花單元120具有漂浮於基布110上的效果。藉此,可增加經編浮紗織物100結構上的層次感,更可使經編浮紗織物100提供毛絨的觸覺效果。The floating yarn area is disposed on at least one surface of the
另外,鏤空區150與提花區130或浮紗區鄰接,提花單元120在鏤空區150不成圈地編織於基布110,且提花單元120受第一地梳單元111或第二地梳單元112壓制而不外露於經編浮紗織物100之表面。藉此,提花單元120不顯現於基布110之表面,僅看的到基布110的色彩。In addition, the
第一地梳單元111可為密紋組織,第二地梳單元112可為編鏈組織。再者,第一地梳單元111或第二地梳單元112可為透明單絲紗線。藉此,可更凸顯提花單元120在經編浮紗織物100上展現的效果。The first
請參閱第2圖、第3圖及第4圖,並請配合參照第1圖。第2圖繪示本發明另一實施方式之經編浮紗織物的製造方法200的步驟流程圖。第3圖繪示本發明另一實施方式之一實施例之經編浮紗織物的製造方法200之紗線單元的配置圖。第4圖繪示依照第3圖之實施例之所製成之經編浮紗織物的紗線組織示意圖。經編浮紗織物的製造方法200包含配置步驟210、地梳編織步驟220以及提花編織步驟230。具體而言,第1圖所示的經編浮紗織物100可由第2圖之經編浮紗織物的製造方法200製成,且以下將以第3圖實施例為例說明經編浮紗織物的製造方法200,但本發明並不以此為限。Please refer to Figure 2, Figure 3 and Figure 4, and please refer to Figure 1 in conjunction. FIG. 2 shows a flow chart of the steps of a
詳細來說,以第3圖實施例為例,在配置步驟210中,將第一地梳單元111、提花單元120及第二地梳單元112依序配置於單針床機台。特別的是,可將提花單元120連接紗架機台(圖未繪示),且紗架機台以消極方式送紗給提花單元120。藉此,提花單元120可在成圈編織及不成圈編織之間任意切換,以產生不同的布面效果。In detail, taking the embodiment of Fig. 3 as an example, in the disposing
接著,在提花編織步驟230中,係控制提花單元120在偶數橫列及奇數橫列的偏移狀態,並依據所欲形成的布面效果,而將提花單元120成圈地編織於基布110,或者將提花單元120不成圈地編織於基布110,使提花單元120不受第一地梳單元111及第二地梳單元112壓制,並形成浮紗結構(未另標示)。特別的是,提花單元120具有原始墊紗組織,原始墊紗組織的墊紗數碼為重複數碼。Next, in the
特別說明的是,所述浮紗結構係由提花單元120來回編織所構成,在結構特徵上,由於提花單元120不受到第一地梳單元111及第二地梳單元112壓制,因而形成紗線浮出布面且漂浮於布面上的效果,且所述浮紗結構可提供毛絨且立體的觸感,其有助於增加產品的特殊性。In particular, the floating yarn structure is formed by the
在提花編織步驟230中,可將提花單元120編織成成圈組織,使提花單元120可同時在經編浮紗織物100之兩面顯現,並形成如第1圖所示的提花區130。In the
另外,亦可控制提花單元120之偏移狀態為提花單元120在奇數橫列不偏移,在偶數橫列偏移,以形成浮紗結構,且浮紗結構外露於基布110之其中一表面,並形成如第1圖所示的前浮紗區141。In addition, the offset state of the
另外,亦可控制提花單元120之偏移狀態為提花單元120在奇數橫列不偏移,在偶數橫列不偏移,以形成浮紗結構,浮紗結構外露於基布110之另一表面,並形成如第1圖所示的後浮紗區142。In addition, the offset state of the
再者,可控制提花單元120之偏移狀態為提花單元120在奇數橫列偏移,在偶數橫列不偏移,使提花單元120受第一地梳單元111或第二地梳單元112壓制而不外露於經編浮紗織物100之表面,並形成如第1圖所示的鏤空區150。藉此,經編浮紗織物100的表面僅會顯現基布110,並藉以提供不同的視覺效果。Furthermore, the offset state of the
藉由設定提花單元120之原始墊紗組織的墊紗數碼為重複數碼,提花單元120可在成圈組織與不成圈組織之間變化,其中成圈組織可有助於增加經編浮紗織物100的結構穩定性,而不成圈組織可增加經編浮紗織物100視覺上的層次感。此外,提花單元120在不成圈的情況下,可完全不受第一地梳單元111及第二地梳單元112壓制,使浮紗結構可外露於經編浮紗織物100的兩個表面,並提供經編浮紗織物100雙面毛絨的觸感及豐富的視覺效果。本發明之經編浮紗織物的製造方法200僅透過單一條提花單元120即可形成在同一塊布面上獲得成圈及變化浮紗並存的效果。藉此,除了可增加經編浮紗織物100之布面效果的豐富度,亦可同時有效地減少紗線損耗,並有利於減少經編浮紗織物100的重量。By setting the laying number of the original laying weave of the
為了更清楚地說明本發明之經編浮紗織物的製造方法200的編織手段,以下將以實際編織手法進行說明,並請配合參照第3圖及第4圖。In order to explain the knitting method of the warp knitted floating yarn
首先說明的是,第一地梳單元111及第二地梳單元112分別具有墊紗組織,提花單元120具有原始墊紗組織及提花墊紗組織,原始墊紗組織為提花單元120偏移之前的紗線組織,提花墊紗組織為提花單元120偏移之後紗線下一步走向及變化的紗線組織。提花單元120依據一提花控制信息進行偏移,藉以達到組織花型變化的效果。First of all, it is explained that the first
更仔細地說,墊紗組織、原始墊紗組織及提花墊紗組織分別具有墊紗數碼,所述墊紗數碼可代表第一地梳單元111、第二地梳單元112及提花單元120的編織路徑。另外,提花控制信息具有偏移信號,所述偏移信號以字母H及字母T表示,其中,字母H代表不偏移信號,字母T代表偏移信號。在第3圖實施例中,墊紗數碼係由四個數碼組成,前兩個數碼控制紗線在奇數行列的線圈方向及組織,後兩個數碼控制紗線在偶數行列的線圈方向及組織。More specifically, the underlay weave, the original underlay weave and the jacquard underlay weave respectively have underlay numbers, and the underlay numbers may represent the knitting of the first
具體而言,如第4圖所示,第一地梳單元111編織成密紋組織,其墊紗數碼為10-12,第二地梳單元112編織成編鏈組織,其墊紗數碼為10-01。Specifically, as shown in FIG. 4 , the first
在第3圖實施例中,提花單元120之原始墊紗組織的墊紗數碼為00-00,其為重複數碼。接著,在提花編織步驟230中,設定提花單元120之提花控制信息為TH-HT,提花單元120偏移後獲得墊紗數碼為10-01的提花墊紗組織,其為成圈組織。藉此,提花單元120以成圈的型態同時顯現於第一表面及第二表面,並獲得如第1圖所示的提花區130。In the embodiment shown in Fig. 3, the weaving number of the original weaving weave of the
另外,在提花編織步驟230中,可設定提花單元120之提花控制信息為HH-TT,提花單元120偏移後獲得墊紗數碼為00-11的提花墊紗組織。藉此,提花單元120可不受第一地梳單元111及第二地梳單元112壓制,而形成浮紗結構,並在基布110之其中一表面形成前浮紗區141。In addition, in the
在提花編織步驟230中,可設定提花控制信息為HH-HH,提花單元120不產生偏移,並獲得墊紗數碼為00-00的提花墊紗組織。藉此,提花單元120可不受第一地梳單元111及第二地梳單元112壓制,而形成浮紗結構,並在基布110之另一表面形成後浮紗區142。In the
再者,可設定提花單元120之提花控制信息為TT-HH,提花單元120偏移後獲得墊紗數碼為11-00的提花墊紗組織。藉此,提花單元120受第二地梳單元112壓制,並夾於第一地梳單元111及第二地梳單元112之間,而不外露於經編浮紗織物100的表面,並形成如第1圖所示的鏤空區150。Furthermore, the jacquard control information of the
請參閱第5圖及第6圖,第5圖繪示本發明一實施方式之另一實施例的經編浮紗織物300的平面示意圖,第6圖繪示依照第5圖之實施例之經編浮紗織物300的剖面示意圖。經編浮紗織物300包含前布310、後布320、提花單元330、提花區340、浮紗區350、透視區360及鏤空區370。Please refer to FIGS. 5 and 6. FIG. 5 is a schematic plan view of a warp-knitted
前布310由前地梳組(圖未繪示)編織而成,後布320由後地梳組(圖未繪示)編織而成,後布320連接前布310,且前布310與後布320之前具有中間層301。提花單元330連接前布310及後布320。The
具體而言,透過提花單元330與前布310及後布320之間不同的編織關係,使提花單元330在經編浮紗織物300的表面展現不同的布面效果,並達到同一紗線在同一塊布面上獲得成圈及變化浮紗並存的效果。Specifically, through the different knitting relationship between the
提花區340設置於前布310及後布320,提花單元330在提花區340交替且成圈地編織於前布310及後布320,使提花單元330以成圈的型態同時外露於前布310之表面及後布320之表面。此外,在提花區340的提花單元330可將前布310及後布320緊密地連接,藉此,可增加經編浮紗織物300整體的結構強度。The
更仔細地說,如第6圖所示,提花單元330在提花區340交替地編織於前布310及後布320,並在前布310形成前提花區341,在後布320形成後提花區342,前提花區341的位置與後提花區342的位置對應。More specifically, as shown in FIG. 6 , the
提花單元330在浮紗區350不成圈地編織於前布310或後布320,且提花單元330不受前地梳組或後地梳組壓制,而外露於前布310之表面或後布320之表面。藉此,由於提花單元330不受到其他紗線的束縛,而使提花單元330可不緊貼於前布310的表面或後布320的表面,進而形成提花單元330漂浮於布面表面的效果,並可增加經編浮紗織物300結構上的層次感,且更可使經編浮紗織物300提供毛絨的觸覺效果。The
提花單元330在透視區360不成圈地編織於中間層301,且提花單元330不受前地梳組或後地梳組壓制,使提花單元330浮於中間層301。仔細地說,如第6圖所示,提花單元330不受到地梳單元321的壓制,而浮於中間層301。The
詳細來說,前地梳組及後地梳組可為對掛組織、對掛網孔組織、全密紋組織或編鏈組織。藉此,透過經編的手法,前布310之表面及後布320之表面具有經編的網孔(圖未繪示)。藉此,使用者可透過經編的網孔觀察到提花單元330漂浮於中間層301的狀態。In detail, the front ground comb group and the rear ground comb group can be a pair-hanging organization, a paired-hanging mesh organization, a full dense weave or a chain-woven organization. Therefore, through the warp knitting method, the surface of the
提花單元330在鏤空區370編織於前布310或後布320,並受到前地梳組或後地梳組壓制而不外露於前布310之表面及後布320之表面。仔細地說,如第6圖所示,提花單元330受地梳單元321壓制,而緊貼於後布320。藉此,前布310之表面及後布320之表面僅會看到前地梳組及後地梳組的顏色,且由於提花單元330緊密地依附著前地梳組或後地梳組,因此就算由經編的網孔觀之,也不甚明顯。The
請參閱第7圖、第8圖及第9圖,並請一併參照第5圖及第6圖。第7圖繪示本發明再一實施方式之經編浮紗織物的製造方法400的步驟流程圖,第8圖繪示本發明再一實施方式之一實施例之經編浮紗織物的製造方法400之紗線單元的配置圖,第9圖繪示依照第8圖之實施例的紗線組織示意圖。Please refer to Figure 7, Figure 8 and Figure 9, and please refer to Figure 5 and Figure 6 together. FIG. 7 is a flow chart showing the steps of a
經編浮紗織物的製造方法400包含配置步驟410、地梳編織步驟420以及提花編織步驟430。具體而言,第5圖所示的經編浮紗織物300可由第7圖之經編浮紗織物的製造方法400製成,以下將以第8圖實施例為例說明,但本發明並不以此為限。The
如第8圖所示,在配置步驟410中,將前地梳組510、後地梳組520及提花單元530設置於雙針床機台,其中前地梳組510設置於雙針床機台之前針床501,後地梳組520設置於雙針床機台之後針床502,提花單元530設置於前針床501與後針床502之間。As shown in Fig. 8, in the
在第8圖實施例中,前地梳組510包含第一地梳單元511及第二地梳單元512,後地梳組520包含第四地梳單元521、第五地梳單元522及第六地梳單元523,其中第六地梳單元523不穿紗,另外更包含第三地梳單元513。必須說明的是,在其他實施例中,地梳單元及提花單元的數量及排序可依據編織需求調整,本發明並不以此為限。In the embodiment of FIG. 8 , the front comb set 510 includes a
進一步地說,可將提花單元530連接紗架機台(圖未繪示),且紗架機台以消極方式送紗給提花單元530。藉此,提花單元530可任意地在成圈編織及不成圈編織之間切換,以產生不同的布面效果。Further, the
在地梳編織步驟420中,將前地梳組510在前針床501編織成前布310,將後地梳組520在後針床502編織成後布320,且前布310及後布320之間形成中間層301。具體而言,前地梳組510及後地梳組520可編織成對掛組織、對掛網孔組織、全密紋組織或編鏈組織。此外,前地梳組510或後地梳組520可為透明單絲紗線。藉此,可更凸顯提花單元530的花紋變化。In the ground
接著,在提花編織步驟430中,係控制提花單元530在偶數橫列及奇數橫列的偏移狀態。依據所欲形成的布面效果,而將提花單元530在前針床501及後針床502之間編織,並將提花單元530成圈地編織於前布310及後布320,以使前布310與後布320連接;或者將提花單元530不成圈地編織於前布310或後布320,使提花單元530不受前地梳組510及後地梳組520壓制,並形成浮紗結構。特別的是,提花單元530具有原始墊紗組織,原始墊紗組織的墊紗數碼為重複數碼。Next, in the
在提花編織步驟430中,可將提花單元530編織成成圈組織,使提花單元530在前布310及後布320之間雙面成圈,以形成如第5圖所示的提花區340。In the
另外,可控制偏移狀態為提花單元530在奇數橫列不偏移,在偶數橫列不偏移,以形成浮紗結構,且提花單元530不受前地梳組510及後地梳組520壓制。再者,配合前地梳組510及後地梳組520的編織結構,浮紗結構可位於中間層301,並形成如第5圖所示的透視區360,或者浮紗結構可位於前布310之表面或後布320之表面,如第5圖所示的浮紗區350。In addition, the offset state can be controlled such that the
另外,可控制偏移狀態為提花單元530在奇數橫列偏移,在偶數橫列不偏移,以形成浮紗結構,且浮紗結構位於中間層301。In addition, the offset state can be controlled such that the
另外,可控制提花單元530在後針床502編織,並控制偏移狀態為提花單元530在奇數橫列中的至少一橫列或偶數橫列中的至少一橫列偏移,以使提花單元530受後地梳組520壓制而不外露於前布310及後布320,並可形成如第5圖所示的鏤空區370。In addition, the
藉由設定提花單元530之原始墊紗組織的墊紗數碼為重複數碼,提花單元530可在成圈組織與不成圈組織之間變化,其中成圈的組織可使前布310與後布320的連接更為穩定,而不成圈的組織可增加經編浮紗織物300視覺上的層次感。此外,提花單元530在不成圈的情況下,可完全不受前地梳組510及後地梳組520的壓制,而形成浮紗結構,而浮紗結構更可以依據配合前地梳組510及後地梳組520的結構,而可選擇地設置於經編浮紗織物300的表面或中間層301。藉此,本發明之經編浮紗織物的製造方法400僅透過單一條提花單元530即可形成在同一塊布面上獲得成圈及變化浮紗並存的效果。The
為了更清楚地說明本發明之經編浮紗織物的製造方法400的編織手段,以下將以實際編織手法進行說明,並請配合參照第8圖及第9圖。In order to explain the knitting method of the warp knitted floating yarn
首先說明的是,第8圖之第一地梳單元511、第二地梳單元512、第三地梳單元513、第四地梳單元521、第五地梳單元522及第六地梳單元523分別具有墊紗組織。提花單元530具有原始墊紗組織及提花墊紗組織,提花單元530之原始墊紗組織依據一提花控制信息偏移成提花墊紗組織。特別說明的是,有關墊紗組織、原始墊紗組織、提花墊紗組織及提花控制信息的定義及說明請參考上述第3圖實施例的敘述,再此不另外贅述。特別的是,在第8圖實施例中,提花墊紗組織及提花控制信息係由八個數碼組成,前四個數碼控制紗線在奇數行列的線圈方向及組織,後四個數碼控制紗線在偶數行列的線圈方向及組織。First, it is explained that the first
具體而言,在地梳編織步驟420中,將第一地梳單元511及第二地梳單元512編織成對掛網孔組織,第三地梳單元513編織成連接線組織,第四地梳單元521編織成編鏈組織,其墊紗數碼為1110-0001。特別的是,藉由將第一地梳單元511及第二地梳單元512編織成對掛網孔組織,可增加前布310的結構穩定性。Specifically, in the floor
在第8圖實施例中,提花單元530之原始墊紗組織的墊紗數碼可為0000-0000,其為重複數碼。In the embodiment of FIG. 8, the yarn laying number of the original laying yarn structure of the
接著,如第9圖所示,在提花編織步驟430中,設定提花單元530之提花控制信息為HHHH-HHHH,使提花單元530不產生偏移,並獲得墊紗數碼為0000-0000的提花墊紗組織。藉此,提花單元530不受第一地梳單元511及第二地梳單元512壓制,而形成浮紗結構,並在後布320之表面形成浮紗區350。Next, as shown in Fig. 9, in the
可設定提花單元530之提花控制信息為HHHH-TTTT,提花單元530偏移後獲得墊紗數碼為0000-1111的提花墊紗組織。藉此,提花單元530受後地梳組520壓制而不外露於前布310及後布320,並可形成如第5圖所示的鏤空區370。The jacquard control information of the
可設定提花單元530之提花控制信息為TTTT-HHHH,提花單元530偏移後獲得墊紗數碼為1111-0000的提花墊紗組織。藉此,提花單元530可不受第一地梳單元511及第二地梳單元512壓制,而形成浮紗結構,且此時浮紗結構位於中間層301,並形成如第5圖所示的透視區360。The jacquard control information of the
可設定提花單元530之提花控制信息為THTH-HTHT,提花單元530偏移後獲得墊紗數碼為1010-0101的提花墊紗組織。藉此,提花單元530可形成雙面成圈組織,且提花單元530係交替地在前布310與後布320成圈編織,如第5圖所示,其分別在前布310形成前提花區341,在後布320形成後提花區342。The jacquard control information of the
請參照第10圖、第11A圖及第11B圖,第10圖繪示本發明再一實施方式之另一實施例之經編浮紗織物的製造方法400之紗線單元的配置圖,第11A圖繪示依照第10圖之實施例之前針床紗線組織示意圖,第11B圖繪示依照第10圖之實施例之後針床紗線組織示意圖。Please refer to Fig. 10, Fig. 11A and Fig. 11B, Fig. 10 is a configuration diagram of a yarn unit of a
以第10圖實施例為例,在配置步驟410中,將前地梳組610、後地梳組620及提花單元630設置於雙針床機台,其中前地梳組610設置於雙針床機台之前針床601,後地梳組620設置於雙針床機台之後針床602,提花單元630設置於前針床601與後針床602之間。在第10圖實施例中,前地梳組610包含第一地梳單元611、第二地梳單元612、第三地梳單元613及第四地梳單元614,後地梳組620包含第五地梳單元621及第六地梳單元622,其中第一地梳單元611及第二地梳單元612不穿紗。Taking the embodiment of Fig. 10 as an example, in the
在地梳編織步驟420中,第三地梳單元613及第四地梳單元614在前針床601編織成前布310,並如第11A圖所示,將第三地梳單元613及第四地梳單元614編織成對掛網孔組織,其中第三地梳單元613的墊紗數碼為1000-1222,第四地梳單元614的墊紗數碼為1222-1000。藉此,可增加前布310的結構穩定度。特別的是,第三地梳單元613及第四地梳單元614為透明單絲紗線,藉此可使前布310展現透明的視覺效果,以更凸顯提花單元630的變化。In the ground
在地梳編織步驟420中,第五地梳單元621及第六地梳單元622在後針床602編織成後布320,並如第11B圖所示,將第五地梳單元621及第六地梳單元622編織成對掛網孔組織,其中第五地梳單元621的墊紗數碼為1110-0012-2223-3321,第六地梳單元622的墊紗數碼為2223-3321-1110-0012。藉此,可增加後布320的結構穩定度。In the ground
特別的是,由上述可知,前布310的編織組織與後布320的編織組織並不相同,因此前布310及後布320可以展現不同經編網孔的變化。藉此,可增加經編浮紗織物300視覺上的層次感及立體感,使經編浮紗織物300可提供更豐富的視覺效果。In particular, it can be seen from the above that the knitting structure of the
在第10圖實施例中,提花單元630之原始墊紗組織的墊紗數碼為0000-0000,其為重複數碼。In the embodiment of Fig. 10, the yarn laying number of the original laying weave of the
接著,如第11A圖第及第11B圖所示,在提花編織步驟430中,設定提花單元630之提花控制信息為THTH-HTHT,提花單元630偏移後獲得墊紗數碼為1010-0101的提花墊紗組織。藉此,提花單元630可形成雙面成圈組織,且提花單元630係交替地在前布310與後布320成圈編織,並分別在前布310形成前提花區341,在後布320形成後提花區342。Next, as shown in Fig. 11A and Fig. 11B, in the
另外,設定提花單元630之提花控制信息為HHHH-HHHH,使提花單元630不產生偏移,並獲得墊紗數碼為0000-0000的提花墊紗組織。藉此,提花單元630不受第一地梳單元611及第二地梳單元612壓制,而形成浮紗結構,且配合上述前地梳組610及後地梳組620的編織組織,此時浮紗結構位於中間層301,並形成如第6圖所示的透視區360。In addition, the jacquard control information of the
另外,控制提花單元630在後針床602編織,並設定提花單元630之提花控制信息為HHTH-HHHT,使提花單元630在奇數橫列中的至少一橫列及偶數橫列中的至少一橫列偏移,提花單元630偏移後獲得墊紗數碼為0010-0001的提花墊紗組織。藉此,提花單元630受後地梳組620壓制而不外露於前布310及後布320,並可形成如第6圖所示的鏤空區370。In addition, the
請參照第12圖、第13A圖及第13B圖,並請一併參照第5圖、第6圖及第7圖。第12圖繪示本發明再一實施方式之再一實施例之經編浮紗織物的製造方法400之紗線單元的配置圖,第13A圖繪示依照第12圖之實施例之前針床紗線組織示意圖,第13B圖繪示依照第12圖之實施例之後針床紗線組織示意圖。Please refer to FIG. 12 , FIG. 13A and FIG. 13B , and please refer to FIG. 5 , FIG. 6 and FIG. 7 together. Fig. 12 shows the configuration diagram of the yarn unit of the
以第12圖實施例為例,在配置步驟410中,將前地梳組710、後地梳組720及提花單元730設置於雙針床機台,其中前地梳組710設置於雙針床機台之前針床701,後地梳組720設置於雙針床機台之後針床702,提花單元730設置於前針床701與後針床702之間。在第12圖實施例中,前地梳組710包含第一地梳單元711及第二地梳單元712,後地梳組720包含第三地梳單元721、第四地梳單元722及第五地梳單元723,其中第三地梳單元721不穿紗。Taking the embodiment of Fig. 12 as an example, in the
特別的是,在第12圖實施例中,提花單元730包含第一提花單元731及第二提花單元732,且第一提花單元731的顏色可不同於第二提花單元732的顏色。藉此,經編浮紗織物300可在不同的布面區域展現不同的色彩,並提供多色、混色及色變化的效果。Particularly, in the embodiment of FIG. 12, the
在地梳編織步驟420中,第一地梳單元711及第二地梳單元712在前針床701編織成前布310,並如第13A圖所示,將第一地梳單元711及第二地梳單元712編織成對掛組織,其中第一地梳單元711的墊紗數碼為1000-1222,第二地梳單元712的墊紗數碼為1222-1000。藉此,可增加前布310的結構穩定度。此外,第一地梳單元711及第二地梳單元712為透明單絲紗線,藉此可使前布310展現透明的視覺效果,以更凸顯提花單元730的變化。In the ground
另外,在地梳編織步驟420中,第四地梳單元722及第五地梳單元723在後針床702編織成後布320,並如第13B圖所示,將第四地梳單元722及第五地梳單元723編織成對掛網孔組織,其中第四地梳單元722的墊紗數碼為1110-0012-2223-3321,第五地梳單元723的墊紗數碼為2223-3321-1110-0012。藉此,可增加後布320的結構穩定度。In addition, in the floor
由上述可知,前布310的編織組織與後布320的編織組織並不相同,因此前布310與後布320可以展現不同經編網孔的變化。藉此,可增加經編浮紗織物300視覺上的層次感及立體感,使經編浮紗織物300可提更豐富的視覺效果。It can be seen from the above that the knitting structure of the
在第12圖實施例中,第一提花單元731之原始墊紗組織的墊紗數碼及第二提花單元732之原始墊紗組織的墊紗數碼皆為0000-0000,其為重複數碼。In the embodiment of Fig. 12, the stitching number of the original stitching weave of the
在提花編織步驟430中,可分別設定第一提花單元731及第二提花單元732的提花控制信息,使第一提花單元731及第二提花單元732在相同位置或不同位置進行偏移,且第一提花單元731及第二提花單元732不會互相干涉彼此。以下以第一提花單元731為例說明,而第二提花單元732可依據相同方式在不同位置進行偏移。In the
如第13A圖及第13B圖所示,設定第一提花單元731的提花控制信息為THTH-THTH,第一提花單元731偏移後獲得墊紗數碼為1010-0101的提花墊紗組織。藉此,第一提花單元731可形成雙面成圈組織,且第一提花單元731係交替地在前布310與後布320成圈編織,並分別在前布310形成前提花區341,在後布320形成後提花區342。As shown in Fig. 13A and Fig. 13B, the jacquard control information of the
另外,設定第一提花單元731之提花控制信息為HHHH-HHHH,使第一提花單元731不產生偏移,並獲得墊紗數碼為0000-0000的提花墊紗組織。藉此,第一提花單元731不受第一地梳單元711及第二地梳單元712壓制,而形成浮紗結構,且配合前地梳組710及後地梳組720的編織組織,此時浮紗結構位於中間層301,並形成如第5圖所示的透視區360。In addition, the jacquard control information of the
另外,控制第一提花單元731在後針床702編織,並設定第一提花單元731之提花控制信息為HHTH-HHHT,使第一提花單元731在奇數橫列中的至少一橫列及偶數橫列中的至少一橫列偏移,第一提花單元731偏移後獲得墊紗數碼為0010-0001的提花墊紗組織。藉此,第一提花單元731受後地梳組720壓制而不外露於前布310及後布320,並形成如第5圖所示的鏤空區370。In addition, the
請參照第14圖及第15圖,第14圖繪示本發明一實施方式之再一實施例的經編浮紗織物800的平面示意圖,第15圖繪示依照第14圖之經編浮紗織物800之開孔區880的剖面示意圖。經編浮紗織物800包含前布810、後布820、提花單元830、提花區840、浮紗區850、透視區860、鏤空區870及開孔區880。特別說明的是,第14圖之經編浮紗織物800的結構與第5圖之經編浮紗織物300的結構相似,相同之處請參照第5圖及第6圖的敘述,在此不另外贅述。Please refer to FIG. 14 and FIG. 15. FIG. 14 is a schematic plan view of a warp knitted floating
特別的是,經編浮紗織物800更包含開孔區880,其毗鄰提花區840、浮紗區850、透視區860或鏤空區870,開孔區880具有複數個開孔881,且如第14圖及第15圖所示,提花單元830可透過開孔881顯現。仔細地說,開孔區880可設置於前布810或後布820。更進一步地說,如第15圖所示,提花單元830不受到地梳單元821壓制而漂浮於中間層801,使用者可透過開孔881觀察到提花單元830在中間層801的結構樣貌。透過開孔區880的設置,可更增加經編浮紗織物800的布面效果豐富度。In particular, the warp-knitted floating
請參照第16圖、第17圖、第18A圖及第18B圖,並配合參照第14圖及第15圖。第16圖繪示本發明又一實施方式之經編浮紗織物的製造方法900的步驟流程圖,第17圖繪示本發明又一實施方式之一實施例之經編浮紗織物的製造方法900之紗線單元的配置圖,第18A圖繪示依照第17圖之實施例之前針床紗線組織示意圖,第18B圖繪示依照第17圖之實施例之後針床紗線組織示意圖。Please refer to FIG. 16 , FIG. 17 , FIG. 18A and FIG. 18B , and refer to FIG. 14 and FIG. 15 together. Fig. 16 shows a flow chart of the steps of a
經編浮紗織物的製造方法900包含配置步驟910、地梳編織步驟920、提花編織步驟930以及網孔提花步驟940。具體而言,第14圖所示的經編浮紗織物800可由第16圖之經編浮紗織物的製造方法900製成。特別說明的是,第16圖之經編浮紗織物的製造方法900的內容與第7圖之經編浮紗織物的製造方法400的內容相似,相同內容在此不另外贅述。The
以第17圖實施例為例,在配置步驟910中,將前地梳組1010、後地梳組1020、提花單元1030及網孔提花單元1040設置於雙針床機台,其中前地梳組1010設置於雙針床機台之前針床1001,後地梳組1020設置於雙針床機台之後針床1002,提花單元1030及網孔提花單元1040設置於前針床1001與後針床1002之間。在第17圖實施例中,前地梳組1010包含第一地梳單元1011及第二地梳單元1012,後地梳組1020包含第三地梳單元1021及第四地梳單元1022,其中第一地梳單元1011不穿紗。Taking the embodiment of Fig. 17 as an example, in the
如第18A圖所示,在地梳編織步驟920中,將第二地梳單元1012依照墊紗數碼1000-1222編織,其為編鏈組織。另外,如第18B圖所示,將第三地梳單元1021及第四地梳單元1022編織成對掛網孔組織,其中第三地梳單元1021的墊紗數碼為2333-2111-1000-1222,第四地梳單元1022的墊紗數碼為1000-1222-2333-2111。As shown in FIG. 18A , in the floor
在第17圖實施例中,提花單元1030之原始墊紗組織的墊紗數碼可為0000-0000,其為重複數碼。In the embodiment shown in Fig. 17, the yarn laying number of the original laying weave of the
如第18B圖所示,在提花編織步驟930中,控制提花單元1030交替地於前針床1001及後針床1002編織,並設定提花單元1030之提花控制信息為THTH-HTHT,提花單元1030偏移後獲得墊紗數碼為1010-0101的提花墊紗組織。藉此,提花單元1030可形成雙面成圈組織,且提花單元1030係交替地在前布810與後布820成圈編織,並分別在前布810形成前提花區(未另標示),在後布820形成後提花區(未另標示)。As shown in Fig. 18B, in the
如第18B圖所示,在提花編織步驟930中,控制提花單元1030在後針床1002編織,並設定提花單元1030之提花控制信息為HHHH-HHHH,使提花單元1030不產生偏移,並獲得墊紗數碼為0000-0000的提花墊紗組織。藉此,提花單元1030不受第一地梳單元1011及第二地梳單元1012壓制,而形成浮紗結構,且此時浮紗結構位於中間層801,並形成如第14圖所示的透視區860。As shown in Fig. 18B, in the
再者,控制提花單元1030在後針床1002編織,並設定提花單元1030之提花控制信息為HHTH-HHHT,使提花單元1030在奇數橫列中的至少一橫列及偶數橫列中的至少一橫列偏移,提花單元1030偏移後獲得墊紗數碼為0010-0001的提花墊紗組織。藉此,提花單元1030受後地梳組1020壓制而不外露於前布810及後布820,並可形成如第14圖所示的鏤空區870。Furthermore, the
另一方面,經編浮紗織物的製造方法900更包含網孔提花步驟940,其係將網孔提花單元1040在前針床1001編織成開孔組織或跨長針密紋組織,並形成複數個開孔881,使浮紗結構可透過開孔881顯現。On the other hand, the
仔細地說,網孔提花單元1040具有原始墊紗組織及提花墊紗組織,網孔提花單元1040之原始墊紗組織依據一提花控制信息偏移成提花墊紗組織。有關原始墊紗組織、提花墊紗組織及提花控制信息的定義及說明請參考上述第3圖實施方式的敘述,再此不另外贅述。在第17圖實施例中,網孔提花單元1040的原始墊紗組織的墊紗數碼為1000-1222。Specifically, the
具體而言,如第18A圖所示,在網孔提花步驟940中,控制網孔提花單元1040在前針床1001編織,並設定網孔提花單元1040之提花控制信息為HHHH-TTHH,網孔提花單元1040偏移後獲得墊紗數碼為1000-2322的提花墊紗組織,其為跨長針的密紋組織。接著,設定網孔提花單元1040之提花控制信息為TTHH-HHHH,網孔提花單元1040偏移後獲得墊紗數碼為2100-1222的提花墊紗組織,其為編鏈開孔組織,並形成開孔881。Specifically, as shown in Fig. 18A, in the
綜上所述,透過設定提花單元之原始墊紗組織的墊紗數碼為重複數碼,使提花單元可在成圈組織與不成圈組織之間任意變化。藉此,本發明之經編浮紗織物的製造方法僅透過單一條提花單元即可形成在同一塊布面上獲得成圈及變化浮紗並存的效果。除了可增加經編浮紗織物之布面效果的豐富度,亦可同時有效地減少紗線損耗,並有利於減少經編浮紗織物的重量。To sum up, by setting the yarn laying number of the original laying weave of the jacquard unit as a repeating number, the jacquard unit can be arbitrarily changed between the stitched weave and the non-looped weave. Thereby, the manufacturing method of the warp knitted floating yarn fabric of the present invention can be formed on the same cloth surface only through a single jacquard unit to obtain the effect of coexisting loop formation and variable floating yarns. In addition to increasing the richness of the fabric effect of the warp knitted floating yarn fabric, it can also effectively reduce the yarn loss at the same time, and is beneficial to reduce the weight of the warp knitted floating yarn fabric.
雖然本發明已以實施方式揭露如上,然其並非用以限定本發明,任何熟習此技藝者,在不脫離本發明之精神和範圍內,當可作各種之更動與潤飾,因此本發明之保護範圍當視後附之申請專利範圍所界定者為準。Although the present invention has been disclosed in the above embodiments, it is not intended to limit the present invention. Anyone skilled in the art can make various changes and modifications without departing from the spirit and scope of the present invention. Therefore, the protection of the present invention The scope shall be determined by the scope of the appended patent application.
100,300,800:經編浮紗織物 110:基布 111,511,611,711,1011:第一地梳單元 112,512,612,712,1012:第二地梳單元 120,330,530,630,730,830,1030:提花單元 130,340,840:提花區 141:前浮紗區 142:後浮紗區 150,370,870:鏤空區 200,400,900:經編浮紗織物的製造方法 210,410,910:配置步驟 220,420,920:地梳編織步驟 230,430,930:提花編織步驟 301,801:中間層 310,810:前布 320,820:後布 321,821:地梳單元 341:前提花區 342:後提花區 350,850:浮紗區 360,860:透視區 501,601,701,1001:前針床 502,602,702,1002:後針床 510,610,710,1010:前地梳組 513,613,721,1021:第三地梳單元 520,620,720,1020:後地梳組 521,614,722,1022:第四地梳單元 522,621,723:第五地梳單元 523,622:第六地梳單元 731:第一提花單元 732:第二提花單元 880:開孔區 881:開孔 940:網孔提花步驟 1040:網孔提花單元 100,300,800: warp knitted float fabric 110: base cloth 111, 511, 611, 711, 1011: First ground comb unit 112, 512, 612, 712, 1012: Second ground comb unit 120, 330, 530, 630, 730, 830, 1030: Jacquard unit 130,340,840: Jacquard area 141: Front floating yarn area 142: Rear floating yarn area 150,370,870: hollow area 200,400,900: Manufacturing method of warp-knitted float fabric 210,410,910: Configuration Steps 220, 420, 920: Ground comb weaving steps 230, 430, 930: Jacquard weaving steps 301,801: Middle Layer 310,810: Front Cloth 320,820: Back cloth 321,821: Ground Comb Unit 341: Premise flower area 342: Back Jacquard Area 350,850: Float area 360,860: Perspective area 501, 601, 701, 1001: Front needle bed 502, 602, 702, 1002: Rear needle bed 510, 610, 710, 1010: Front comb set 513, 613, 721, 1021: The third ground comb unit 520, 620, 720, 1020: Rear floor comb set 521, 614, 722, 1022: Fourth ground comb unit 522, 621, 723: Fifth floor comb unit 523,622: Sixth floor comb unit 731: The first jacquard unit 732: Second Jacquard Unit 880: Opening area 881: Opening 940: Mesh Jacquard Steps 1040: Mesh Jacquard Unit
為讓本發明之上述和其他目的、特徵、優點與實施例能更明顯易懂,所附圖式之說明如下: 第1圖繪示本發明一實施方式之一實施例的經編浮紗織物的立體示意圖; 第2圖繪示本發明另一實施方式之經編浮紗織物的製造方法的步驟流程圖; 第3圖繪示本發明另一實施方式之一實施例之經編浮紗織物的製造方法之紗線單元的配置圖; 第4圖繪示依照第3圖之實施例之所製成之經編浮紗織物的紗線組織示意圖; 第5圖繪示本發明一實施方式之另一實施例的經編浮紗織物的平面示意圖; 第6圖繪示依照第5圖之實施例之經編浮紗織物的剖面示意圖; 第7圖繪示本發明再一實施方式之經編浮紗織物的製造方法的步驟流程圖; 第8圖繪示本發明再一實施方式之一實施例之經編浮紗織物的製造方法之紗線單元的配置圖; 第9圖繪示依照第8圖之實施例的紗線組織示意圖; 第10圖繪示本發明再一實施方式之另一實施例之經編浮紗織物的製造方法之紗線單元的配置圖; 第11A圖繪示依照第10圖之實施例之前針床紗線組織示意圖; 第11B圖繪示依照第10圖之實施例之後針床紗線組織示意圖; 第12圖繪示本發明再一實施方式之再一實施例之經編浮紗織物的製造方法之紗線單元的配置圖; 第13A圖繪示依照第12圖之實施例之前針床紗線組織示意圖; 第13B圖繪示依照第12圖之實施例之後針床紗線組織示意圖; 第14圖繪示本發明一實施方式之再一實施例的經編浮紗織物的平面示意圖; 第15圖繪示依照第14圖之經編浮紗織物之開孔區的剖面示意圖; 第16圖繪示本發明又一實施方式之經編浮紗織物的製造方法的步驟流程圖; 第17圖繪示本發明又一實施方式之一實施例之經編浮紗織物的製造方法之紗線單元的配置圖; 第18A圖繪示依照第17圖之實施例之前針床紗線組織示意圖;以及 第18B圖繪示依照第17圖之實施例之後針床紗線組織示意圖。 In order to make the above and other objects, features, advantages and embodiments of the present invention more clearly understood, the accompanying drawings are described as follows: FIG. 1 is a three-dimensional schematic diagram of a warp-knitted floating yarn fabric according to an example of an embodiment of the present invention; Fig. 2 shows a flow chart of the steps of a manufacturing method of a warp knitted floating yarn fabric according to another embodiment of the present invention; Fig. 3 shows the configuration diagram of the yarn unit of the manufacturing method of the warp-knitted floating yarn fabric according to another embodiment of the present invention; Fig. 4 shows a schematic diagram of the yarn structure of the warp-knitted floating yarn fabric made according to the embodiment of Fig. 3; FIG. 5 is a schematic plan view of a warp-knitted floating yarn fabric according to another example of an embodiment of the present invention; Fig. 6 is a schematic cross-sectional view of the warp-knitted floating yarn fabric according to the embodiment of Fig. 5; Fig. 7 is a flow chart showing the steps of the manufacturing method of the warp knitted floating yarn fabric according to another embodiment of the present invention; Fig. 8 is a configuration diagram of a yarn unit of a manufacturing method of a warp knitted floating yarn fabric according to another embodiment of the present invention; Fig. 9 shows a schematic diagram of the yarn structure according to the embodiment of Fig. 8; Fig. 10 shows the configuration diagram of the yarn unit of the manufacturing method of the warp knitted floating yarn fabric according to another embodiment of the present invention; Fig. 11A shows a schematic diagram of the yarn structure of the needle bed before the embodiment according to Fig. 10; Fig. 11B shows a schematic diagram of the yarn structure of the needle bed after the embodiment according to Fig. 10; Fig. 12 shows the configuration diagram of the yarn unit of the manufacturing method of the warp knitted floating yarn fabric according to still another embodiment of the present invention; Fig. 13A shows a schematic diagram of the yarn structure of the needle bed before the embodiment according to Fig. 12; Fig. 13B shows a schematic diagram of the yarn structure of the needle bed after the embodiment according to Fig. 12; FIG. 14 is a schematic plan view of a warp-knitted floating yarn fabric according to still another example of an embodiment of the present invention; FIG. 15 is a schematic cross-sectional view of the perforated area of the warp-knitted floating yarn fabric according to FIG. 14; Fig. 16 is a flow chart showing the steps of a manufacturing method of a warp knitted floating yarn fabric according to another embodiment of the present invention; Fig. 17 shows a configuration diagram of a yarn unit of a manufacturing method of a warp knitted floating yarn fabric according to another embodiment of the present invention; Fig. 18A shows a schematic diagram of the yarn structure of the needle bed before the embodiment according to Fig. 17; and FIG. 18B shows a schematic diagram of the yarn structure of the needle bed after the embodiment according to FIG. 17 .
200:經編浮紗織物的製造方法 200: Manufacturing method of warp-knitted floating yarn fabric
210:配置步驟 210: Configuration Steps
220:地梳編織步驟 220: Ground Comb Weaving Steps
230:提花編織步驟 230: Jacquard weaving steps
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