SK279661B6 - Cosmetics containing phospholipids and fluorocarbon compounds, process for their preparation, and their use - Google Patents

Abstract

A cosmetic with asymmetrical lamellary aggregates consists of phospholipids and an oxygen-loaded fluorocarbon compound or a fluorocarbon compound mixture. The proportion of fluorocarbon compound lies in a range from 0.2 to 100 percent by weight/volume, and it is contained in an excipient appropriate for dermatological uses. This cosmetic is prepared by emulsifying its components and is used in salves, creams, lotions, liquids, alcoholic extracts, pastes, powders, gels, tinctures on or plasters and bandages, or in a spray.

Description

Technical field

The invention relates to cosmetic compositions containing phospholipids and characterized by an activity that improves oxygen supply to the skin.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

The use of particulate structures in the form of aqueous phosphclipid liposomes as cosmetic preparations is already known. The structural-regenerative effects and the improvement in the degree of skin resistance are attributed to liposomes prepared from natural phospholipids, for example from soya lecithin, which have a lamellar bilayer structure that corresponds to the cell membrane structure. Liposomes penetrate through the horn layer and fix to weakened sites in the epidermis and thus improve interstitial cell structure.

Increased liposome activity is accomplished by encapsulating the active compounds and preparing liposomal cosmetic compositions. DE-A-3242385 (LOREAL) protects a liposomal composition comprising in the liposomal phase polypeptide extracts, plant extracts (almondermine) and UV protection filters.

Dior offers a Capture facial gel containing 5% thymus extract, 1% collagen and elastin peptides and 0.1% hyaluronic acid. These compounds are found in liposomes with a diameter of 100 nm, which are formed from soy lecithin. This preparation is applied by means of a spray dispersant [sic].

To improve oxygen supply to the skin, it has already been proposed to use peroxides, such as hydrogen peroxide, to stimulate cellular metabolism of the skin through the formation of nascent oxygen. However, considerable side effects, such as skin irritation, hinder this use. DE-A-2534315 protects an oxygen-containing cosmetic formulation that consists of an oxygen-saturated gaseous hydrocarbon gas and an aqueous phase surfactant that is in an aerosol container. Borgarello (EP-A-296661) has developed an isotropic single-phase cosmetic system in which halogenated compounds are considered as oxygen carriers. A typical composition consists of a 34% mixture of perchloro-1-butyltetrahydrofuran and apolytluoro-1-propyltetrahydrofuran, 7% isopropanol, 49% water and 10% emulsifier. The emulsifiers used were fluorosurfactants with high surface activity, for example perfluoroalkylsulfonamide type, which are known to be extremely toxic when administered to mice (LD 50 0.1-0.2 g / kg) and also cause skin irritation. Other possible solutions relate to the use of a hemolymph extract of gastropods or an extract of proteins and proteins from the spleen of cattle.

However, convincing and physically detectable toning and freshening of the skin surface are not achieved by the compositions and methods described.

The invention is designed to improve the oxygen supply of the skin by means of cosmetic compositions containing phospholipids in such a way that a detectable effect is achieved.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

According to the present invention, phospholipid-containing cosmetic compositions consist of asymmetric lamellar aggregates consisting of phospholipids and an oxygen-enriched fluorocarbon or a mixture of fluorocarbons, wherein the amount of fluorocarbon is in the range of 0.2 to 100% w / v (w / v = weight / volume), said aggregates being contained in a carrier suitable for cosmetic purposes.

A large number of fluorocarbons can be utilized, for example aliphatic linear or branched fluorocarbons, mono- or bicyclic fluorocloalkanes, optionally substituted with a fluoroalkyl group, perfluorinated aliphatic or bicyclic amines, bis (perfluoroalkyl) ethenes, perfluoropolyethers, or mixtures thereof. Preference is given to using fluorinated hydrocarbons such as perfluorodecalin, F-butyltetrahydrofuran, perfluorotibutylamine, perfluorooctyl bromide, bis-fluoro (butyl) ethene or bis-fluoro (hexyl) ethene, or C (- C 8 perfluoroalkanes).

The amount of fluorocarbons is preferably in the range from 20 to 100% w / v, more preferably in the range from 40 to 100% and most preferably in the range from 70 to 100% w / v.

The term fluorocarbons as used herein refers to perfluorinated or highly perfluorinated carbon compounds or mixtures thereof that are capable of transporting gases such as oxygen and carbon dioxide. Highly fluorinated hydrocarbon compounds according to the present invention are understood to mean those compounds in which most hydrogen atoms are replaced by fluorine atoms, so that further substitution would not increase the gas transport capability. This is usually achieved when up to about 90% of the hydrogen atoms are replaced by fluorine atoms. According to the invention, fluorinated hydrocarbons are preferably used in which at least 95% of the hydrogen atoms are replaced, more preferably 98% and most preferably 100%.

The phospholipids used according to the invention are natural phospholipids such as soy lecithin and egg lecithin, synthetic phospholipids and also hydrogenated lecithins, for example phospholipon H or partially hydrogenated phospholipids. In these phospholipids, according to the invention, the phosphatidylcholine content is in the range from 10 to 99% by weight, preferably 30 to 99% and most preferably 70 to 90% by weight. %.

In addition to phosphatidylcholine, lysolecithins may also be present in a concentration range of 0.1 to 10% by weight and / or (electrically) charged phospholipids, such as phosphatidylethanolamine, N-acetylphosphatidylethanolamine or phosphoric acid, in a concentration range of 0.1 to 30% by weight.

In contrast to known aqueous liposomes, phospholipid-stabilized aggregates according to the invention have hydrophobic fluorocarbons in their core which are capable of transporting oxygen. Their interfacial chemical stabilization is primarily influenced by the monolayer having the inverse structure and possibly the structure of the bilayer films attached thereto. Due to the peculiarities of their structural arrangement, these new aggregates are referred to as asymmetric lamellar oxygen carriers. Their exceptional colloidal and chemical stability is likely to come from the lamellar structure and the surface charge of the aggregates. This charge may originate in the choice of fit2

2796 phospholipids or mixtures thereof, both of natural and synthetic origin. Phospholipids and in particular phosphatidylcholine in a given concentration range of 10 to 99% in combination with lysolecithins in a concentration of 0.1 to 10% and / or charged phospholipids in a concentration range of 0.1 to 30% by weight are primarily responsible in this respect action. The protected action of phospholipids was verified by a suitable negative zeta potential value and by measuring the charge density (titration with cationic polyclolyte).

An advantage of the phospholipid dispersions of the present invention is that as a result of an additional source of oxygen, which is mediated by fluorocarbons, its circulation is mediated, and thus the metabolic processes in the epidermal layer and the general state of skin breathing are improved. With improved cell breathing, the skin's natural defense potential is enhanced and skin toxins are eliminated. In addition, due to the use of cosmetic formulations in the form of stabilized phospholipids, a moisturizing and skin softening effect is achieved due to the presence of water-containing lameric layered structures.

In contrast to the known formulations, the compositions of the present invention show that chemically inert fluorocarbons can advantageously supply the skin with oxygen in measurable form because of their particularly high ability to dissolve oxygen when used locally, in the form of asymmetric lamellar aggregates. To confirm this effect according to the invention, it was first possible to confirm the penetration of asymmetric lamellar aggregates by spectroscopy results, by means of a labeled phospholipid dispersion on physiologically intact isolated skin.

The use of cosmetic products is not limited to the skin of a person's face, but can be applied to all epidermal areas of the body where adipose tissue is deficient in cellulite-affected circulation and in the hair region, in this case particularly to hair cells.

Topical use of fluorinated hydrocarbon-containing aggregates with stabilized phospholipids on the skin has been unknown to date. Fluorocarbons themselves are chemically and biologically inert organic liquids which are characterized by a high oxygen-dissolving capacity. Because of this property, they have been suggested as gas carriers in surrogate blood emulsions and also for human use (K. C. Lowe: Blood substitutes, Ellis-Horwood, Chichester, GB., 1988). Like soy or egg lecithin, natural phospholipids are toxicologically acceptable and, moreover, are known to be skin compatible and skin-friendly.

The choice of fluorocarbons can be made according to the oxygen solubility, the partial vapor pressure, and the lipid solubility specifically, according to the intended application. The critical solubility temperature (CST) of the fluorocarbons in n-hexane correlates with their solubility in lipids, for example in cell membranes, and thus represents a measure of the rate of passage through the skin. Thus, for example, perfluorodecalin and perfluorooctyl bromide having low CST values pass relatively rapidly, while on the other hand, perluorotripylamine, which has a high CST value at 59 ° C, has a high half-life. It has been found that fluorocarbon mixtures behave ideally and their CST values are linearly dependent on the composition of the mixture. In this way, it is possible by mixing different fluorocarbons to set defined CST values, which often cannot be realized with individual compounds. These results offer the possibility of specifically using fluorocarbon mixtures to influence the rate of penetration into the skin and their residence time in a positive way.

The invention also relates to a process for the preparation of phospholipids containing cosmetic compositions which comprises preparing an emulsion of phospholipids in a fluorocarbon or in a mixture of fluorocarbons which is saturated with oxygen, wherein the amount of fluorocarbon is in the range of 0.2 to 100% w / v asymmetric The breaking aggregates with an average particle size of from 50 to 3000 nm obtained in this way are incorporated into a suitable carrier which is suitable for cosmetic use. It is utilized herein to effectively pre-emulsify the crude dispersion by adding a fluorocarbon to an aqueous phospholipid solution at a temperature corresponding to the temperature of the starting materials. The pre-emulsification is suitably influenced by a relatively high rotational speed, for example 12000 to 15000 rpm. The actual homogenization is used in this case using a high-pressure homogenizer. The diameter of the aggregates is in the order of 50 to 3000 nm, preferably 140 to 320 nm. The particle size distribution may be retained or the particles may be separated by centrifugation. It is possible to carry out thermal sterilization without changing the particle size. Natural lipid radicals or antioxidants such as d-tocopherol can be added to prevent auto-oxidation processes of unsaturated fatty acids.

According to the invention, the fraction of lipids used according to this preparation process contains phosphatidylcholine in an amount of from 0.1 to 99% by weight, preferably 30-99%, and in particular 70 to 90% by weight. %.

The incorporation of asymmetric lamellar aggregates as an active ingredient into ointments, creams, lotions and other aqueous or alcoholic cosmetic preparations may vary depending on the intended application, and the fluorocarbon content, and thus the availability of oxygen, may be varied over a wide range. Before mixing into various cosmetic systems such as gels, pastes, powders, ointments, creams, lotions and aqueous or alcoholic extracts, the aggregates can be partially dosed or saturated with gaseous oxygen. Even oxygen saturation at atmospheric pressure by stabilizing the equilibrium normally found in within the validity of Henry's Law, it provides a higher oxygen content than all comparable known systems.

According to the present invention, the content of asymmetric lameric phospholipid aggregates in cosmetic compositions may range from 0.05 to 80% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 60%, and in particular from 1 to 50% by weight. It should be particularly pointed out that after processing, the properties of the asymmetric lamellar aggregates of the phospholipids of the present invention found in cosmetic compositions are not affected by the other ingredients, indicating their extraordinary stability.

The invention is illustrated in more detail by the following examples. The attached figures show:

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

Figure 1. Critical solubility temperature (CST) of n-hexane mixtures in perfluorodecalin as standard.

Figure 2. Critical solubility temperature of n-hexane mixtures of perluorinated hydrocarbons using F-octyl bromide as standard.

Some selected fluorocarbons and their oxygen solubility values, their saturated vapor pressure and their critical solubility temperatures are listed in Table 1. Based on these data, a suitable composition of the fluorocarbon mixture can be selected based on the necessary skin penetration characteristics with cosmetic compositions.

Table 1

Fluorocarbon Γπ Oxygen solubility 11 µl / 100 ml FU1 Saturated vapor pressure ₃₇ ⁰ C Hal CST R ci perfluorooctyl 50 14 -24.5 perfluorodecalin 40 52.5 22 Bis-F (butylýetén 50 12.6 22.5 F-cyklohexylmetylroorfolin 42 4 38.5 F-triprajylamln 45 18.5 43 F-dihexyl 45 2 59 F-tributyl & mines 40 1 59 Perfluorecalin-Ftributylamine 1: 1 40 7 42 Perfluórbutyltetrahydroftirán 52 51 29 F-methyicyclic hexane 57 180 8.2 F-hexane 58 414 20

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

Example 1

Mixture of 50 ml of a 10% aqueous phospholipid solution (soybean lecithin, 80% phosphatidylcholine (PC)) and 80 g of a high purity fluorocarbon mixture containing no hydrogen atoms (90% perfluorodecalin, 10% F-dibutymethylamine, critical solubility temperature 26 ° C) is homogenized together using an ultrasonic ice bath disintegrator until particles [sic] with an average particle size of 244 nm are obtained. The micelle structure of fluorocarbon and phospholipid aggregates can be determined by 31p NMR spectroscopy and is characterized by typical signal width as well as electron microscopy.

The dispersion of the aggregates can be mixed without problems and without affecting their stability with suitable alcohols for sterilization. The addition of 30 ml of ethanol causes sterilization, the resulting dispersion having the following composition: 62% w / v fluorocarbons, 9.7% phospho lipids, 19% ethanol.

A zeta potential minus 61 mV verifies the formation of a negative surface charge formed by phospholipids and electrostatic stabilization of the dispersion. After saturation with oxygen gas, the dispersion is mixed into an ointment base with which it is compatible and which does not interact with the asymmetric lamellae aggregates. The cosmetic composition thus obtained has the following composition:

ml dispersion of phospholipids (5 g fluorocarbon, 2.2 g phospholipids) ml aqueous phase (polyacrylic gel, glycerin, polyethylene glycols, methylparaben) ml oil chain (mineral oil, cetyl alcohol, triglycerides).

Aggregates of asymmetric lamellar phospholipids in the cream are not affected by concomitant substances.

Example 2 g of lyophilized phospholipids of 60% PC and 20% PE (phosphatidylethanolamine) are dissolved in 90 ml of sterilized water and 16 ml of undenatured ethanol are added. Using a high-speed mechanical stirrer (Ultra-Turrax, 15000 rpm), the dispersion is mixed while perfluorodecalin (CST 22 ° C) is gradually added to the stirrer tank while maintaining a temperature of 20 ° C. The crude dispersion is homogenized at 500 atm in an inert gas stream in a Manton Gaulin high-pressure homogenizer. At the beginning of the penultimate pass, d-tocopherol acetate is added in an amount such that its concentration is 0.1%. This compound serves to prevent autooxidation processes and as a free radical scavenger.

Measurements made with the N-4 MD photon correlation spectrometer (Coultronics) confirm the presence of a unimodal particle size distribution and an average particle size of 128 nm. Asymmetric lamellar phospholipid aggregates are found in concentrically arranged layers with an odd number of layers, which can be clearly determined from cryoelectron micrography. These results are also consistent with the results of electron microscopy using negative staining. Asymmetric lamellar aggregates are found to be in unilamellar state with a zeta potential value minus 76 mV, according to the results of ´p NMR spectroscopy. The composition of the dispersion is as follows:

% perfluorodecalin% phospholipids% ethanol

Example 3 g of nF-hexane, which is mixed with its perfluorinated isomers (CST 20 ° C), is mechanically pre-emulsified with 9.5 g of 3-sn-phosphatidylcholine from egg yolk in 47 ml of deionized and sterilized water under an inert atmosphere and 0.2% dl-d-tocopherol is added to the crude emulsion. The crude emulsion is homogenized in a pressure homogenizer at a pressure of 500 atm. at a suitable temperature regime, controlling the particle size. The dispersion obtained had a mean viscosity value and a particle diameter of 294 nm. After addition of 8 ml propylene glycol, a long-term room temperature experiment showed good stability and sterility (microorganisms were less than 100 microorganisms / g). Dilution, such as in the preparation of skin lotions, can be carried out without problems and without changing important colloid-chemical parameters.

Monitoring the dispersion in polarized light using a light microscope showed the presence of an isotropic single-phase system in which no liquid crystal structures are found.

Methyl p-hydroxybenzoate 0.20% Example 4 Propyl p-hydroxybenzoate 0.10% Detection of liposome penetration in vivo Imidazolidinyl urea 0.20% Freshly isolated physiologically intact skin Asymmetric lamellae aggregates xx inner side to oxygen sensor (Clark phospholipids 0.10% Oelectrode) and epidermis were moistened with oxygen-transporting Essential oil 0.25% dispersion containing asymmetric lamellae Demineralized water qs

gatya. Under these conditions, the electrode did not indicate a partial-

oxygen pressure. After 57 minutes of penetration time Example 8 - Emulsion (face mask) the gates reached the dermal section of the skin in mernej oblasti elek- Polyacrylic acid 0,30% trod. The oxygen partial pressure rose to 159 mm Emulsifying agent 5,00% Hg. The rate of penetration into the skin depends on the type and size Emulsifier 2 6,00% aggregates. TEA 0,30% Aloe vera 1.50% Examples 5 to 19 Jojoba oil 1.50% The following examples describe cosmetic formulations for Methyl p-hydroxybenzoate 0.20% specific use. Data in percentages Propyl p-hydroxybenzoate 0,10% means weight percent. Imidazolidinyl urea Asymmetric lamellar aggregates 0.20% Example 5 - Emulsion (Body Milk) phospholipids 40,05% Polyacrylic acid 0,30% Essential oil 0,50% TEA 0,30% Demineralized water qs Methyl p-hydroxybenzoate 0.20% Propyl p-hydroxybenzoate 0.10% Example 9 - Gel (gel mask) Imidazolidinyl urea 0.20% Polyacrylic acid 1,30% Na-EDTA 0,06% hydroxyethyl 0.20% Cetyl / stearyl 1.00% propylene 10,00% Stearic acid 1.00% Asymmetric lamellae aggregates Isopropyl myristate / palmitate 3,00% phospholipids 40,05% Liquid paraffin 4,00% TEA 0.10% Jojoba oil 2,00% Methyl p-hydroxybenzoate 0.20% Asymmetric lamellae aggregates Imidazolidinyl urea 0,30% phospholipids 10,00% Essential oil 0,50% Essential oil 1.00% Demineralized water qs

Demineralized water q.s.

Example 10 - Sunscreen

Example 6 - Emulsion (cream) The emulsification system consists of: Polyacrylic acid 0,30% asymmetric 34,00% propylene 5,00% lamellar phospholipid aggregates, stabilizers, TEA 0,30% polyglycerol esters, polyoxyethylene esters, Emulsifying agent 6,00% isopropyl palmitate Emulsifier 2 4.50% glycerin 5,00% Aloe vera 2,00% MgSO ₄ .7H ₂ O 0,50% Rice husk oil 1.50% UV filter 1 3,00% Cetyl / stearyl 1,00% UV filter 2 3,00% Jojoba oil 1.50% Methyl p-hydroxybenzoate 0.20% Methyl p-hydroxybenzoate 0.20% Propyl p-hydroxybenzoate 0,10% Propyl p-hydroxybenzoate 0.10% Imidazolidinyl urea 0,30% Imidazolidinyl urea 0.20% Essential oil 1,00% Asymmetric lamellae aggregates Demineralized water qs phospholipids 50,14% Essential oil 1.00% Example 11 - Shampoo Demineralized water qs Sodium lauryl ether sulphate 35,00%

Fatty acid amidoalkylbetain 10.00%

Example 7 - Emulsion (cleaning emulsion) Pearl chandelier concentrate 5,00% Polyacrylic acid 0.10% Alkylamidosulfosukcinát 5,00% propylene 3,00% Asymmetric lamellae aggregates TEA 0,10% phospholipids 7,50% Emulsifying agent 5,00% Luviquat 1,00% Emulsifier 2 2,50% Protein hydrolyzate 1,00% Linalol oil 1,30% Preservative 0.40% Avocado oil 2,00% Citric acid 0.05% Jojoba oil 1.50% Aromatic ingredient 0,50%

SK 279661-6

Kitchen salt 0,50%

Demineralized water q.s.

Example 12 - Liquid soap

Sodium lauryl ether sulphate 45,00%

Fatty Acid Amidoalkylbetaine 10,00% Pearl Chandelier Concentrate 5,00%

Asymmetric lamella breaks phospholipid aggregates 12,00%

Citric acid 0.05%

Preservative 0.40%

Fragrance 1.50%

Kitchen salt 1.50%

Demineralized water q.s.

Example 13 - Hair composition

Polyacrylic acid 0,50%

Chelaplex 0.006%

TEA 0,50%

Propylene glycol 6.50%

Asymmetric lamellar phospholipid aggregates 20,00%

Preservative 0.50%

Fragrance 1.50%

Demineralized water q.s.

Example 14 - Cream Deodorant

Emulsifier 1 8,00%

Emulsifier 2 4.00%

Jojoba Oil 5.00%

Aloe vera 5.00%

Propylene glycol 6,00%

Menthol 0,10%

Polyacrylic acid 0,15%

TEA 0,13%

Preservative 0.50%

Asymmetric lamellar aggregates of phospholipids 25,00%

Fragrance in deodorant active compound 1.50%

Demineralized water q.s.

Example 15 - After Shave Balm

Polyacrylic acid 0,20%

Chelaplex 0.006%

TEA 0,20%

Wax 1.00%

Glycerin 4.00%

Jojoba Oil 4.00%

Rice Chop Oil 4.00%

Ethanol 10,00%

Asymmetric lamellar phospholipid aggregates 37,00%

Preservative 0.50%

Ingredient 1.50%

Demineralized water q.s.

Example 16 - Make up

Emulsifying system 25,00% consisting of polyglycerin, paraffin esters, polyoxyethylene esters, isopropyl palmitate, Aloe vera waxes 2,00%

Glycerin 5.00%

MgSO ₄ .7H ₂ O 0.50%

Preservative 0.50%

Asymmetric lamellar phospholipid aggregates 37,00%

Dye 1 8,50%

Essential Oil 1.00%

Demineralized water q.s.

Example 17 - Make Up for Eyes

Carbopol 0.20%

TEA 0,20%

Sorbitol 10.30%

Preservative 0.50%

Liquid paraffin 2,50%

Asymmetric lamellar phospholipid aggregates 8,00%

Emulsifier 3.70%

Mineral oil 2,90%

Ethanol 5,00%

Color 8,00%

Demineralized water q.s.

Example 18 - Eyeshadow with Light Protective Factor

Talc 40,00%

Magnesium carbonate '1,50%

Magnesium stearate 2.5 0%

Kaolin 2,20%

Dyes 15,80%

Pearl Chandelier Pigment 21,50%

Essential Oil 1.50%

Silk Protein 5.00%

Emulsion as a Processing Agent Emulsifying Agent 4.50%

Silicone oil, volatile 2,50%

Asymmetric lamellar phospholipid aggregates 2,50%

UV filter 2.00%

Preservative 0.30%

Demineralized water q.s.

Example 19 - Make up - pressed transparent powder with light protection factor

Talc 70,50%

Kaolin 10,00%

Magnesium carbonate ’2.50%

Magnesium stearate 1.50%

Silk Protein 2.50%

Dyes 4.50%

Chandelier pigments 7.50%

Essential Oil 1.00%

Emulsion as a Processing Agent Emulsifying Agent 4.50%

Silicone oil, volatile 2,50%

Asymmetric lamellar phospholipid aggregates 2,50%

UV filter 2.00%

Preservative 0.30%

Demineralized water q.s.

SK 279661-6

Claims (14)

PATENT CLAIMS Cosmetic compositions containing phospholipids, characterized in that they consist of asymmetric lamellar aggregates containing phospholipids and 0.2 to 100 wt. oxygen-saturated fluorocarbons or a mixture of fluorocarbons on a carrier suitable for cosmetic use. Cosmetic formulations according to claim 1, characterized in that the lamellar aggregates have an asymmetric, preferably three-layer structure, derived from their fluorocarbon core. Cosmetic compositions according to claims 1 and 2, characterized in that the fluorinated hydrocarbons are selected from the group consisting of aliphatic linear and branched fluorinated hydrocarbons, mono- or bicyclic or fluoroalkyl-substituted fluorocycloalkanes, perfluorinated aliphatic or bicyclic aliphatic or bicyclic , bis (perluoroalkyl) ethenes, perfluoropolyethers and mixtures thereof. Cosmetic formulations according to claim 3, characterized in that the fluorinated hydrocarbons are selected from the group consisting of perfluorodecalin, F-butyltetrahydrofuran, perfluorotripylainine, perfluorooctyl bromide, bis-fluoro (butyl) -ethene and Cg- Cy-perfluoroalkanes. Cosmetic preparations according to one of claims 1 to 5 4, characterized in that the amount of fluorocarbons is in the range from 20 to 100% w / v, more preferably in the range from 40 to 100%, and most preferably in the range from 70 to 100%. Cosmetic formulations according to one of claims 1 to 6 5, characterized in that the phospholipids are selected from the group consisting of natural phospholipids such as soy lecithin and egg lecithin, as well as synthetic phospholipids, hydrogenated lecithins and / or partially hydrogenated phospholipids. Cosmetic preparations according to one of claims 1 to 7 6, characterized in that the lipid fraction used contains phosphatidylcholine in an amount of 10 to 99% by weight, preferably in an amount of 30 to 99% by weight. % and most preferably 70 to 90 wt. Cosmetic preparations according to one of claims 1 to 10 7, characterized in that in addition to phosphatidylcholine, lysolecithins are present in a concentration range of 1 to 10% by weight. Cosmetic preparations according to one of claims 1 to 9 8, characterized in that, to achieve a slow penetration of the skin, the cosmetic compositions contain fluorinated hydrocarbons or mixtures of fluorocarbons having a higher critical solubility temperature. Process for the preparation of cosmetic compositions containing phospholipids according to claims 1 to 9, characterized in that phospholipids having a phosphatidylcholine content in the range from 10 to 99% by weight are homogenized with oxygen-saturated fluorocarbon or a mixture of fluorocarbons after pre-emulsification and subsequent high-pressure emulsification. wherein the amount of the fluorocarbon is in the range of 0.2 to 100% w / v and the asymmetric lamellar aggregates obtained in such a manner having a particle size of 50 to 1000 nm are mixed into a carrier suitable for cosmetic purposes. A process according to claim 10 wherein the fluorinated hydrocarbons are selected from the group consisting of aliphatic linear and branched fluoroalkanes, mono- or bicyclic or fluoroalkyl-substituted fluoro cycloalkanes, perfluorinated aliphatic or bicyclic amines, bis (perfluoroalkylpolyesters, perfluoroalkylpolyesters, mixtures thereof, and which are preferably selected from the group of compounds which include peroxydecalin, F-butyl tetrahydrofuran, perfluorotibutylamine, perfluorooctyl bromide, bis-fluoro (butyl) ethene or C 1 -C 8 -fluoroalkanes. Process according to claim 10 or 11, characterized in that the amount of fluorocarbons is preferably in the range from 20 to 100% w / v and more preferably in the range from 40 to 100%. Process according to claim 10 or 11, characterized in that the amount of phospholipids in the cosmetic compositions is in the range from 0.9 to 15% by weight, preferably in the range from 2 to 9% by weight. Use of cosmetic compositions according to claims 1 to 8 for providing oxygen supply to the skin using a system comprising an asymmetric lamellar oxygen carrier comprising phosphohpids containing phosphatidylcholine in the range of 10 to 99% by weight and fluorinated hydrocarbons in the range of 0.2 to 100% w / v, wherein penetration into the skin is controlled by the carrier structure of phospholipid aggregates and the critical solubility temperature of fluorocarbons in n-hexane, and wherein the system is distributed in a carrier customary for cosmetic purposes such as ointments, creams, skin milk, and water, alcoholic extracts, pastes, gels, powders or elixirs, or optionally in dressings or patches, or in sprays.