CA2138977C

CA2138977C - Cosmetic containing phospholipids and fluorocarbon compounds

Info

Publication number: CA2138977C
Application number: CA002138977A
Authority: CA
Inventors: Udo Gross; Joachim Roding; Klaus Stanzl; Leonhard Zastrow
Original assignee: Lancaster Group AG
Current assignee: Lancaster Group AG
Priority date: 1992-06-26
Filing date: 1993-06-24
Publication date: 1999-05-25
Anticipated expiration: 2013-06-24
Also published as: JP3599114B2; DE59301223D1; HU214042B; AU668186B2; NO944958D0; FI946059A0; PL172105B1; ATE131717T1; NO944958L; AU4308193A; IL105944A0; EP0645997B1; HK1002698A1; NZ253002A; SK279661B6; HUT69311A; SK156494A3; JPH07508008A; CA2138977A1; IL105944A

Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic for assisting the transport of oxygen in the skin, a process for its preparation and the use thereof. The problem with the known cosmetics is the inadequate oxygen supply to the skin and the adjoining tissue. The object of the invention is therefore to get through the horny layer of the skin and the epidermis by penetration processes in order to increase the oxygen concentration in the dermal area and adjoining tissue and to activate metabolic processes.
According to the invention, this is effected by a cosmetic containing asymmetric lamellar aggregates, consisting of phospholipids and oxygen-laden fluorocarbon or fluorocarbon mixture, the amount of fluorocarbon being in the range from 0.2 to 100 % weight/volume, in a carrier suitable for dermatological use. Preparation is effected by emulsification of the corresponding constituents, and use in ointments, creams, lotions, waters, alcoholic extracts, pastes, powders, gels, tinctures or on dressings and plasters or in a spray.

Description

'2138g77 Phospholipid- and fluorcarbon-containing cosmetic The invention relates to a cosmetic containing phospholipids and fluorcarbons and having an activity which improves the oxygen supply to the skin.
It is known to employ particular structures in the form of aqueous phospholipid liposomes as cosmetic preparations. Structure-regenerating effects and an improvement in the capacity of resistance of the skin are ascribed to the liposomes prepared from natural phospho-lipids, e.g. soya lecithin, having a lamellar bilayer structure corresponding to the cell membrane structure.
The liposomes penetrate the horny layer and fix to weakened sites of the epidermis and improve the interstitial cell structure.
An increase in the activity of liposomes is achieved by the encapsulation of active compounds and the preparation of liposomal cosmetics. DE-A-3242385 (L'OREAL) protects a liposomal composition which in the liposome phase contains polypeptide extracts, plant extracts (almondermin) and W light protection filters.
The company Dior markets the face gel "Capture", which contains 5 % thymus extract, 1 % collagen and elastin peptides and 0.1 ~ hyaluronic acid in liposomes of 100 nm diameter made of soya lecithin. Use is effected by means of a pump dispenser.
For improved supply of the skin with oxygen, it has already been proposed to use peroxides such as hydrogen peroxide in order to stimulate the cell metabo-lism of the skin via the nascent oxygen formed. The considerable side effects such as the skin irritations, -7 7 ~

however, are an obstacle to use. DE-A-2534315 claimed on O2-containing cosmetological formulation which is composed of an O2-saturated gaseous fluorocarbon and a surfactant in aqueous phase in an aerosol container.
Borgarello (EP-A-296661) developed an isotropic single phase system for the cosmetic sector, in which halogenated compounds are intended to act as oxygen carriers. A typical composition consists of 34% of a mixture of perchloro-l-butyltetrahydrofuran and poly-fluoro-l-propyltetrahydrofuran, 7% isopropanol, 49%
water and 10% emulsifier. The emulsifiers used are very highly surface-active fluorosurfactants, e.g. of the perfluoroalkanesulphonamide type, which are known to be extremely toxic on i.p. administration in the mouse (LDs0 0.1 to 0.2 g/kg) and also have an irritant effect on the skin. Other possible solutions concern the use of a haemolymph extract of molluscs or of an extract of proteins and proteides from cattle spleen.
A convincing and physical detectable toning and invigoration of the skin surface cannot be achieved with the preparations and methods mentioned.
The invention seeks to improve the oxygen supply to the skin with the aid of a cosmetic composition containing phospholipids such that a detectable effect is achieved.

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- 2a -According to the invention, the phospholipid-containing cosmetic comprises asymmetric lamellar aggregates of phospholipids and oxygen-laden fluoro-carbon or fluorocarbon mixtures, the amount of fluoro-carbon being in the range from 0.2 to 100% w/v (w/v =
weight/volume), in a carrier suitable for cosmetic use.
A plurality of fluorocarbons can be employed, e.g. aliphatic straight-chain and branched fluoro-alkanes, mono- or bicyclic and optionally fluoroalkyl-substituted fluorocycloalkanes, perfluorinated aliphatic or bicyclic amines, bis(perfluoroalkyl)-ethenes, perfluoropolyethers or mixtures thereof.
Particularly preferred fluorocarbons are those such as perfluorodecalin, F-butyltetrahydrofuran, perfluoro-tributylamine, ~ ' 2138977 .

perfluorooctyl bromide, bis-fluoro(butyl)ethene or bis-fluoro(hexyl)ethene or C6-Cg-perfluoroalkanes.
The amount of fluorocarbons here is in the range from 20 to 100 ~ w/v, preferably in the range from 40 to s 100 ~. A particularly preferred range is that from 70 to 100 % w/v.
The term "fluorocarbons" used here is understood as meaning perfluorinated or highly perfluorinated carbon compounds or mixtures, which are able to transport gases such as ~2 and CO2. Highly fluorinated hydrocarbon com-pounds within the meaning of this invention are those in which most of the hydrogen atoms are replaced by fluorine atoms, so that on further replacement the capability for gas transport is not necessarily increased. This is usually achieved if approximately up to 90 ~ of the hydrogen atoms are replaced by fluorine atoms. Preferred fluorocarbons within the meaning of the present invention are those in which at least 95 % of the hydrogen atoms are replaced, more preferably 98 ~ and most preferably 100 ~.
The phospholipids employed according to the invention are natural phospholipids such as soya lecithin and egg lecithin, synthetic phospholipids and also hydrogenated lecithins, e.g. phospholipone H or partially hydrogenated phospholipids. In these phospholipids, the content of phosphatidylcholine according to the invention is in the range from 10 to 99 ~ by weight, preferably 30 to 99 ~ and in particular 70 to 90 %.
In addition to phosphatidylcholine, lysolecithins can also be present in the concentration range from 0.1 to 10 ~ by weight and/or charged phospholipids such as phosphatidylethanolamine, n-acetylphosphatidylethanol-amine or phosphatidic acid in the concentration range 0.1 to 30 ~ by weight.
In contrast to the known aqueous liposomes (vesicles), the phospholipid-stabilised aggregates according to the invention carry in their core hydrophobic fluorocarbons which are capable of the transport of oxygen. Their interfacial chemical '" 2138g77 stabilisation is effected primarily by a monolayer having inverse arrangement and optionally a structure of bilayer films attached thereto. Because of the peculiarity of their structural arrangement, these novel aggregates are designated as asymmetric lamellar oxygen carriers. Their exceptional colloid chemical stability can presumably be traced back to the lamellar structure and to the surface charge of the aggregates. The latter can be traced back to the choice of suitable phospholipids or their mixtures of natural as well as of synthetic origin. Phospholipids, in particular phosphatidylcholine in the said concentra-tion range from 10 to 99 ~ in combination with lysolecithins of concentration from 0.1 to 10 ~ and/or charged phospholipids in the concentration range 0.1 to 30 ~ by weight are primarily responsible for an advan-tageous action in this sense. The claimed action of the phospholipids is verified by appropriate negative zeta potentials and by the measurement of charge densities (on titration with a cationic polyelectrolyte).
The advantage of the phospholipid dispersions according to the invention is that as a result of an additional oxygen supply mediated via the fluorocarbon, the circulation and thus the metabolic processes in the epidermal layer is [sic] promoted and the general status of breathing of the skin is increased. With the increase in cell respiration, the natural defence potential of the skin is increased and the elimination of skin toxins is promoted. Moreover, as a result of the use of the cos-metic in a phospholipid-stabilised form, the moisture-giving action and skin-smoothing properties associated with it come to bear because of the water-carrying lamellar layer structures.
In contrast to the known preparations mentioned at the beginning, the compositions according to the invention show that the chemically inert fluorocarbons can supply the skin with oxygen advantageously and in metered form on account of their exceptionally high oxygen-dissolving power when used topically in the form of asymmetric lamellar aggregates. It was possible for '' 2.38g77 the first time to confirm the penetration of the asymme-tric lamellar aggregates by a spectroscopic process as a confirmation of the effect according to the invention using a labelled phospholipid dispersion of physiologi-- 5 cally intact isolated skin.
Use as a cosmetic is not restricted to the face parts of the person, but relates to all epidermal areas of other body, including fatty tissue with deficient circulation affected by cellulitis and the scalp area, in this case in particular the hair cells.
The topical use of fluorocarbon-containing phospholipid-stabilised aggregates on the skin was unknown until now. Fluorocarbons themselves are chemi-cally and biologically inert organic liquids having a high oxygen-dissolving power. Because of these prop-erties, they were proposed as gas carriers in blood substitute emulsions and also put into use in humans (K. C. Lowe: Blood substitutes, Ellis-Horwood, Chichester, GB., 1988). Like soya or egg lecithin, the naturally occurring phospholipids are also toxicologically acceptable and moreover known as skin-compatible and good for the skin.
The fluorocarbons can be selected for ~2 solu-bility, partial vapour pressure and lipid solubility according to the specific intended application. The critical solubility temperature of the fluorocarbons (CST) in n-hexane correlates with their solubility in lipids, e.g. cell membranes, and is thus a measure of the rate of release through the skin. Thus, e.g. perfluoro-decalin and perfluorooctyl bromide having small CSTvalues are released relatively rapidly, while on the other hand F-tributylamine having a high CST value of 59OC also has a high half-life of release. It was found that fluorocarbons behave ideally when mixed and their CST values depend linearly on the composition. It is thus possible by mixing various fluorocarbons to set defined CST values which are often not realisable by means of individual compounds. This result offers the possibility of employing fluorocarbon mixtures specifically to affect -the penetration rate into the skin and their residence time in a positive manner.
The invention also relates to a process for the preparation of a phospholipid-containing cosmetic, which consists in emulsifying phospholipids with a fluorocarbon or a fluorocarbon mixture which is loaded with oxygen, the amount of fluorocarbon being in the range from 0.2 to 100% w/v, and the asymmetric lamellar aggregates having a mean particle size from 50 to 3000 nm obtained in this way being incorporated into a carrier suitable for cosmetic use. A pre-emulsification of the crude dispersion by addition of the fluorocarbon to an aqueous phospholipid solution at a temperature corresponding to the starting substances employed is effected here. The pre-emulsification is appropriately effected at relatively high speeds of rotation, e.g. 12,000 to 15,000 rpm.
The actual homogenisation is then effected using a high-pressure homogeniser. The diameters of the aggregates are in the order of magnitude from 50 to 3000 nm, preferably 140 to 320 nm. The particle size distributions can be rendered uniform or separated by centrifugation. Heat sterilisation in an autoclave is possible without an effect on the particle sizes. To avoid autoxidation processes in the unsaturated fatty acid radical of native lipids, antioxidants, e.g. a-tocopherol, can be added.

~' - 6a -The lipid fraction employed according to the process contains phosphatidylcholine according to the invention in an amount from 0.1 to 99% by weight, preferably 30-99% and in particular 70 to 90%.

The incorporation of the asymmetric lamellar aggregates as an active substance in ointments, creams, lotions and other aqueous or alcoholic cosmetic formulations is effected depending on the intended application, it being possible to vary the fluorocarbon content and thus the ~2 availability within wide limits. Before incorporation into all cosmetic systems, e.g. gels, pastes, powders, tinctures, ointments, creams, lotions and waters or alcoholic extracts, or on dressings or plasters or in a spray, the aggregates can be partially loaded or saturated with gaseous oxygen. Even saturation 7~

" 2138g77 with the oxygen in the atmospheric air by the establish-ment of equilibrium which customarily takes place accord-ing to Henry's law offers a higher oxygen capacity than all comparable known systems.
According to the invention, the content of asymmetric lamellar phospholipid aggregates in the cos-metic preparations can be in the range from 0.05 to 80 ~
by weight, preferably in the range from 0.05 to 60 ~ and in particular in the range from 1 to 50 ~ by weight. It is particularly to be emphasised that, after processing, the asymmetric lamellar phospholipid aggregates according to the invention are present in the cosmetic preparations unaffected by the accompanying substances, which says something for their particular stability.
The invention will be illustrated in greater detail below by means of examples. In the associated drawings Fig. 1 is a diagram of the critical solubility tempera-tures (CST) of perfluorocarbon mixtures in n-hexane using perfluorodecalin as a starting point Fig. 2 is a diagram of the critical solubility tempera-tures of perfluorocarbon mixtures in n-hexane using F-octylbromide as a starting point.
Some selected fluorocarbons and their ~2 solubi-lity, their vapour pressure and their critical solubility temperature are shown in Table 1. Starting from these values, the desired characteristics for the penetration of the skin with the aid of a cosmetic composition can be selected for mixtures of fluorocarbons.
Table 1 Fluorocarbon ~2 solubility Vapour CST
[ml] of O2/100 ml Pressure of Fc] P37~c [~C]
[mm Hg]

Perfluorooctyl bromide 50 14 -24.5 Perfluorodecalin 40 12.5 22 Bis-F(butyl)ethene 50 12.6 22.5 2138~77 F-cyclohexylmethyl-morpholine 42 4 38.5 F-tripropylamine 45 18.5 43 F-dihexyl ether 45 2 59 F-tributylamine 40 1 59 Perfluorodecalin-F-tributylamine 1:1 40 7 42 Perfluorobutyl-tetrahydrofuran 52 51 29 F-methylcyclohexane 57 180 8.2 F-hexane 58 414 20 Example 1 50 ml of a 10 % strength aqueous phospholipid 15 solution (soya lecithin, 80 % phosphatidylcholine (PC)) are homogenised together with 80 g of a highly pure fluorocarbon mixture containing no H atoms (90 % per-fluorodecalin, 10 % F-dibutylmethylamine, critical solubility temperature 26~C) using an ultrasonic 20 disintegrator with ice-cooling until the particle size of the particles [sic~ have a mean diameter of 244 nm. The multilamellar structure of the aggregates of fluorocarbon and phospholipid can be detected from 3lP-NMR measurements by the typical signal width as well as from electron 25 micrographs.
The aggregation dispersion can be mixed with suitable alcohols for the purpose of sterilisation without problems and without affecting its stability.
Addition of 30 ml of ethanol produces sterility, the 30 resulting dispersion having the following composition:
62 ~ w/v fluorocarbons; 9.7 ~ phospholipids; 19 % ethanol The zeta potential of minus 61 mV verifies a negative surface charge produced by the phospholipids with an electrostatic stabilisation of the dispersion.
35 After saturation with gaseous oxygen, the dispersion is incorporated into an ointment base which is tolerable and non-interacting with the asymmetric lamellar aggregates.
The cosmetic obtained in this way has the following composition:
40 20 ml of phospholipid dispersion 2138g77 (5 g of fluorocarbon, 2.2 g of phospholipid) 65 ml of aqueous phase (polyacrylic gel, glycerol, polyethylene glycols, methyl-paraben) 15 ml of oily phase (mineral oil, cetyl alcohol, triglycerides).
The asymmetric lamellar phospholipid aggregates in the cream are unaffected by the accompanying sub-stances.

Example 2 18 g of lyophilised phospholipid of the composi-tion [60 ~ PC, 20 ~ PE (phosphatidylethanolamine)] are dissolved in 90 ml of sterilised water and treated with 16 ml of undenatured ethanol. Using a mechanical high-speed stirrer (Ultra-Turrax, 15,000 rpm), the dispersion is stirred and at the same time perfluorodecalin (CST 22~C) is added successively to the stirring con-tainer, which is temperature-controlled at 20~C. The crude dispersion is homogenised at 500 atm in a stream of inert gas in a high-pressure homogeniser of the Manton Gaulin type. At the start of the last but one passage, ~-tocopherol acetate is added to 0.1 ~ to the dispersion to avoid autoxidation processes and as a scavenger for free radicals.
The measurements carried out using the photon correlation spectrometer N-4 MD (Coultronics) confirm the presence of a unimodal particle size distribution and a mean particle diameter of 128 nm. The asymmetric lamellar phospholipid aggregates are present in concentrically arranged uneven-numbered layers, as can be clearly detected from cryoelectron micrographs. Electron micro-scopy investigations using "negative staining" are in agreement with this. According to 3lP-NMR investigations, the asymmetric lamellar aggregates are present in the unilamellar state with a zeta potential of minus 76 mV.
The composition of the dispersion is 48 ~ w/v perfluorodecalin 13 ~ phospholipids 21~977 9 ~ ethanol.

ExamPle 3 80 g of n-F-hexane, which is present in a mixture with its perfluorinated isomers (CST 20~C) were mechani-cally preemulsified with 9.5 grams of egg yolk 3-sn-phosphatidylcholine in 47 ml of deionised and sterilised water under inert gas conditions with the addition of 0.2 ~ of dl-alpha-tocopherol to give a crude emulsion.
The crude emulsion was homogenised in a pressure homogeniser at pressures of 500 atm under a suitable temperature regime and with checking of the particle sizes. The dispersion obtained has a medium viscosity and a particle diameter of 294 nm. After addition of 8 ml of propylene glycol, stability and sterility (microorganism count less than 100 microorganisms/g) were observed in a long-term experiment at room temperature. Dilution, e.g.
in the preparation of lotions, is possible without problems without a change of important colloid-chemical parameters.
Investigations of the dispersion in polarised light using a light microscope indicate the presence of an isotropic single phase system, in which liquid-crys-talline structures are non-existent.
Example 4 In vivo detection of li~osome ~enetration A freshly isolated physiologically intact skin was fixed by its inside to an ~2 sensor (Clark electrode) and the epidermis was wetted with an O2-transporting dispersion containing asymmetric lamellar aggregates.
Under these conditions, the electrode does not indicate an ~2 partial pressure. After a penetration period of 57 minutes, the aggregates had reached the dermal skin section in the measuring area of the electrode. The ~2 partial pressure rose to a value of 159 mm Hg. The penetration rate into the skin is dependent on the type and size of the aggregates.

_ Examples 5 to 19 The following examples describe cosmetic formula-tions for specific uses. The data in per cent contained therein are percentages by weight.

ExamPle 5 Emulsion (body lotion) Polyacrylic acid 0.30 TEA 0.30 p-Methylhydroxybenzoate 0.20 10 p-Propylhydroxybenzoate 0.10 Imidazolidinyl urea 0.20 Na-EDTA 0.06 Cetyl/stearyl alcohol 1.00 Stearic acid 1.00 15 Isopropyl myristate/palmitate 3.00 Liquid paraffin 4.00 Jojoba oil 2.00 Asymmetric lamellar phospholipid aggregates 10.00 Perfume oil 1.00 20 Demineralised water q.s Example 6 Emulsion (cream) Polyacrylic acid 0.30 Propylene glycol 5.00 TEA 0.30 Emulsifier 1 6.00 Emulsifier 2 4.50 Aloe vera 2.00 Rice husk oil 1.50 30 Cetyl/stearyl alcohol 1.00 Jojoba oil 1.50 p-Methylhydroxybenzoate 0.20 p-Propylhydroxybenzoate 0.10 Imidazolidinylurea 0.20 Asymmetric lamellar phospholipid aggregates 50.00 Perfume oil 1.00 Demineralised water q.s.

Exam~le 7 Emulsion (cleaning emulsion) '2138g77 Polyacrylic acid 0.10 %
Propylene glycol 3.00 %
TEA 0.10 %
Emulsifier 1 5.00 %
5 Emulsifier 2 2.50 %
Linalol oil 1.30 %
Avocado oil 2.00 %
Jojoba oil 1.50 %
p-Methylhydroxybenzoate 0.20 %
10 p-Propylhydroxybenzoate 0.10 %
Imidazolidinylurea 0.20 %
Asymmetric lamellar phospholipid aggregates 0.10 %
Perfume oil 0.2S %
Demineralised water q.s.
Example 8 Emulsion (mask) Polyacrylic acid 0.30 ~
Emulsifier 1 5.00 ~
Emulsifier 2 6.00 TEA 0.30 %
Aloe vera 1.50 %
Jojoba oil 1.50 %
p-Methylhydroxybenzoate 0.20 %
p-Propylhydroxybenzoate 0.10 25 Imidazolidinylurea 0.20 %
Asymmetric lamellar phospholipid aggregates 40.00 %
Perfume oil 0.50 %
Demineralised water q.s.

30 Example 9 Gel (gel mask) Polyacrylic acid 1.30 %
Hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.20 %
Propylene glycol 10.00 %
Asymmetric lamellar phospholipid aggregates 40.00 %
TEA 0.10 ~
p-Methylhydroxybenzoate 0.20 %
Imidazolidinylurea 0.30 %
Perfume oil 0.50 Demineralised water q.s.

2138g77 Example 10 Sunscreen Emulsifier system consisting of asymmetric lamellar phospholipid aggregates, stabilisers, polyglycerol esters, polyoxyethylene esters, isopropyl palmitate Glycerol 5.00 MgS04 ~ 7H20 W filter 1 3.00 10 W filter 2 3.00 p-Methylhydroxybenzoate 0.20 p-Propylhydroxybenzoate 0.10 Imidazolidinylurea 0.30 Perfume oil 1.00 15 Demineralised water q.s Example 11 Shampoo Sodium lauryl ether sulphate 35.00 Fatty acid amidoalkyl betaine 10.00 20 Pearl lustre concentrate 5.00 Alkyl amidosulfosuccinate 5.00 Asymmetric lamellar phospholipid aggregates 7.50 Luviquat 1.00 Protein hydrolysate 1.00 25 Preservative 0.40 Citric acid 0.
Perfume 0.50 Rock salt 0.50 Demineralised water q.s.
Example 12 Shower bath Sodium lauryl ether sulphate 45.00 Fatty acid amidoalkyl betaine 10.00 Pearl lustre concentrate 5.00 Asymmetric lamellar phospholipid aggregates 12.00 Citric acid 0.05 Preservative 0.40 Perfume 1.50 Rock salt 1.50 2138g77 Demineralised water q.s.

Example 13 Hair treatment Polyacrylic acid 0.50 %
- 5 Chelaplex 0.006 %
TEA 0.50 %
Propylene glycol 6.50 %
Asymmetric lamellar phospholipid aggregates 20.00 ~
Preservative 0.50 %
10 Perfume 1.50 %
Demineralised water q.s.

Example 14 Deodorant cream Emulsifier 1 8.00 15 Emulsifier 2 4.00 %
Jojoba oil 5 oo %
Aloe vera 5.00 Propylene glycol 6.00 %
Menthol 0.10 %
20 Polyacrylic acid 0.15 %
TEA 0.13 %
Preservative 0.50 %
Asymmetric lamellar phospholipid aggregates 25.00 %
Perfume in the deodorant active compound 1.50 %
25 Demineralised water q.s.

Example 15 Aftershave balsam Polyacrylic acid 0.20 Chelaplex 0.006 %
TEA 0.20 Wax 1.00 %
Glycerol 4.00 Jojoba oil 4.00 Rice husk oil 4.00 %
35 Ethanol 10.00 ~
Asymmetric lamellar phospholipid aggregates 37.00 %
Preservative 0.50 Perfume 1.50 Demineralised water q.s.

Example 16 Make-up Emulsifier system 25.00 %
consisting of polyglycerol esters, paraffin, polyoxyethylene esters, isopropyl 5 palmitate, waxes Aloe vera 2.00 %
Glycerol 5.00 %
MgSO4 ~ 7H20 Preservative 0.50 %
Asymmetric lamellar phospholipid aggregates 37.00 %
Colorant 1 8.50 %
Perfume oil 1.00 Demineralised water q.s.

Example 17 Eye make-up Carbopol 0.20 TEA 0.20 %
Sorbitol 10.30 %
20 Preservative 0.50 %
Liquid paraffin 2.50 %
Asymmetric lamellar phospholipid aggregates 8.00 Emulsifier 3.70 %
Mineral oil 2.90 25 Ethanol 5.00 %
Colorant 8.00 %
Demineralised water q.s.

Example 18 Eyeshadow compressed with light protec-tion factor Talc 40.00 %
Mg carbonate 1.50 Mg stearate 2.50 %
Kaolin 2.20 %
35 Colorants 15.80 ~
Pearl lustre pigment 21.50 %
Perfume oil 1.50 %
Silk protein 5.00 Emulsion as processing means Emulsifier 4.50 %
Silicone oil, volatile 2.50 Asymmetric lamellar phospholipid aggregates 2.50 W filter 2.00 Preservative 0.30 Demineralised water q.s.

2138g77 ExamPle 19 Make-up - transparent powder compressed with light protection factor Talc 70.50 %
Kaolin 10.00 %
- 5 Mg carbonate 2.50 %
Mg stearate 1.50 %
Silk protein 2.50 %
Colorants 4.50 %
Lustre pigments 7.50 %
10 Perfume oil 1.00 %

Emulsion as processing means Emulsifier 4.50 %
Silicone oil, volatile 2.50 %
Asymmetric lamellar phospholipid aggregates 2.50 %
W Filter 2.00 %
Preservative 0.30 %
Demineralised water q.s.

Claims

The embodiments of the invention in which an exclusive property or privilege is claimed are defined as follows:

1. A phospholipid- and fluorocarbon-containing cosmetic comprising:

(a) a carrier suitable for cosmetic use; and (b) asymmetric lamellar aggregates of phospholipids, which have a phosphatidylcholine content in the range from 30 to 90%, by weight, and at least one fluorocarbon laiden with oxygen, said fluorocarbon being present in the range from 0.2 to 100%, weight/volume; of said aggregates, said at least one fluorocarbon having a critical solubility temperature effective for controlled skin penetration.

2. A cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the lamellar aggregates have an asymmetric structure, originating from a core of said fluorocarbon.

3. A cosmetic of claim 2, wherein said structure is a 3-layer structure.

4. A cosmetic according to claim 1, 2 or 3, wherein the at least one fluorocarbon is selected from the group which consists of aliphatic straight-chain and branched fluoroalkanes, mono- fluorocycloalkanes, bicyclic fluorocycloalkanes, fluoroalkyl substituted mono-fluorocycloalkanes, fluoroalkyl substituted bicyclic fluorocycloalkanes, perfluorinated aliphatic amines, perfluorinated bicyclic amines, bis(perfluoroalkyl) ethanes, perfluoropolyethers and mixtures thereof.

5. A cosmetic according to claim 4, wherein said at least one fluorocarbon is selected from the group which consists of perfluorodecalin, F-butyltetrahydrofuran, perfluorotributylamine, perfluorooctyl bromide, bisfluoro(butyl)ethane and C6-C9-perfluoroalkanes.

6. A cosmetic according to claim 1, 2, 3 or 5, wherein the amount of fluorocarbon is in the range from 20 to 100% weight/volume, of said aggregates.

7. A cosmetic according to claim 4, wherein the amount of fluorocarbon is in the range from 20 to 100%
weight/volume, of said aggregates.

8. A cosmetic according to claim 1, 2, 3 or 5, wherein the amount of fluorocarbon is in the range of 40 to 100% weight/volume of said aggregates.

9. A cosmetic according to claim 4, wherein the amount of fluorocarbon is in the range of 40 to 100%
weight/volume of said aggregate.

10. A cosmetic according to claim 1, 2, 3 or 5, wherein the amount of fluorocarbon is in the range of 70 to 100% weight/volume of said aggregates.

11. A cosmetic according to claim 4, wherein the amount of fluorocarbon is in the range of 70 to 100%
weight/volume of said aggregates.

12. A cosmetic according to claim 1, 2, 3, 5, 6, 9 or 11, wherein the phospholipids are selected from the group consisting of natural phospholipids, synthetic phospholipids and partially hydrogenated phospholipids.

13. A cosmetic according to claim 4, wherein the phospholipids are selected from the group consisting of natural phospholipids, synthetic phospholipids and partially hydrogenated phospholipids.

14. A cosmetic according to claim 8, wherein the phospholipids are selected from the group consisting of natural phospholipids, synthetic phospholipids and partially hydrogenated phospholipids.

15. A cosmetic according to claim 1, 2, 3, 5, 7, 9 or 11, wherein the phospholipids comprise natural phospholipids selected from soya lecithin and egg lecithin.

16. A cosmetic according to claim 1, 2, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13 or 14, wherein the phospholipids have a phosphatidylcholine content of from 70 to 99%, by weight.

17. A cosmetic according to claim 4, wherein the phospholipids have a phosphatidylcholine content of from 70 to 99%, by weight.

18. A cosmetic according to claim 6, wherein the phospholipids have a phosphatidylcholine content of from 70 to 99%, by weight.

19. A cosmetic according to claim 8, wherein the phospholipids have a phosphatidylcholine content of from 70 to 99%, by weight.

20. A cosmetic according to claim 1, 2, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13, 14, 17, 18 or 19, wherein said phospholipids further comprise lysolecithins in a concentration range from 1 to 10%, by weight.

21. A cosmetic according to claim 4, wherein said phospholipids further comprise lysolecithins in a concentration range from 1 to 10%, by weight.

22. A cosmetic according to claim 6, wherein said phospholipids further comprise lysolecithins in a concentration range from 1 to 10%, by weight.

23. A cosmetic according to claim 8, wherein said phospholipids further comprise lysolecithins in a concentration range from 1 to 10%, by weight.

24. A cosmetic according to claim 1, 2, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13, 14, 17, 18, 19, 21, 22 or 23, to achieve a slow skin penetration, said at least one fluorocarbon having a relatively high critical solubility temperature.

25. A cosmetic according to claim 4, to achieve a slow skin penetration, said at least one fluorocarbon having a relatively high critical solubility temperature.

26. A cosmetic according to claim 6, to achieve a slow skin penetration, said at least one fluorocarbon having a relatively high critical solubility temperature.

27. A cosmetic according to claim 8, to achieve a slow skin penetration, said at least one fluorocarbon having a relatively high critical solubility temperature.

28. A cosmetic according to claim 1, 2 or 3, wherein said at least one fluorocarbon is a fluorinated hydrocarbon having at least 95% of hydrogen atoms of the hydrocarbon replaced by fluorine atoms, said at least one fluorocarbon being adapted to transport O2 for supply of oxygen to skin to which the cosmetic is applied.

29. A cosmetic according to claim 1, 2, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13, 14, 17, 18, 19, 21, 22 or 23, in the form of an ointment, cream, lotion, paste, gel, powder, tincture or spray.

30. A cosmetic according to claim 24, in the form of an ointment, cream, lotion, paste, gel, powder, tincture or spray.

31. A cosmetic according to claim 28, in the form of an ointment, cream, lotion, paste, gel, powder, tincture or spray.

32. A cosmetic according to claim 24, formed on a dressing or plaster.

33. A process according to claim 29, 30 or 31, wherein the amount of fluorocarbon is in the range from 40 to 100%.

34. A cosmetic according to claim 28, wherein said carrier comprises water or an alcoholic extract.

35. A cosmetic according to claim 1, 2, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13, 14, 17, 18, 19, 21, 22 or 23, wherein said aggregates are present in an amount of 0.05 to 80%, by weight, of said cosmetic.

36. A cosmetic according to claim 24, wherein said aggregates are present in an amount of 0.05 to 60%, by weight, of said cosmetic.

37. A cosmetic according to claim 28, wherein said aggregates are present in an amount of 1 to 50%, by weight, of said cosmetic.

38. A process for the preparation of a phospholipid- and fluorocarbon-containing cosmetic, comprising:

pre-emulsifying phospholipids having a phosphatidylcholine content in the range from 30 to 99%, by weight, with a least one fluorocarbon laiden with oxygen, at relatively high rotational speeds followed by high-pressure emulsification to form asymmetric lamellar aggregates, and incorporating the aggregates into a carrier which is suitable for cosmetic uses and does not interact with the asymmetric lamellar aggregates, the amount of fluorocarbon being in the range from 0.2 to 100%, weight/volume of said aggregates, and the asymmetric lamellar aggregates having a particle size from 50 to 1000 nm.

39. A process according to claim 38, wherein the at least one fluorocarbon is selected from the group which consists of aliphatic straight-chain and branched fluoroalkanes, mono-fluorocycloalkanes, bicyclic, fluorocycloalkanes, fluoroalkyl substituted mono-fluorocycloalkanes, fluoroalkyl substituted bicyclic fluorocycloalkanes, perfluorinated aliphatic amines perfluorinated bicyclic amines, bis(perfluoroalkyl) ethanes, perfluoropolyethers and mixtures thereof.

40. A process according to claim 38, wherein said at least one fluorocarbon is selected from the group which consists of perfluorodecalin F-butyltetrahydrofuran, perfluorotributylamine, perfluorooctyl bromide, bis-fluoro(butyl)ethene and C6-C9-perfluoroalkanes.

41. A process according to claim 38, 39 or 40, wherein the amount of fluorocarbon is in the range from 20 to 100% weight/volume of said aggregates.

42. A process according to claim 38, 39 or 40, wherein said fluorocarbon is present in an amount of 20 to 100%, weight/volume, of said aggregates.

43. A process according to claim 38, 39 or 40, wherein the amount of phospholipids in the cosmetic is in the range from 0.9 to 15%, by weight.

44. A process according to claim 38, 39 or 40, wherein the amount of phospholipids in the cosmetic is in the range from 2 to 9%, by weight.

45. Use of a phospholipid-containing cosmetic comprising aggregates of an asymmetric lamellar oxygen carrier, containing phospholipids having a phosphatidylcholine content of 30 to 90%, by weight, and at least one fluorocarbon in the range from 0.2 to 100%, weight/volume, of said aggregates, for control of supply of oxygen to the skin.

46. Use according to claim 45, wherein the content of phosphatidylcholine in the phospholipids is in the range from preferably 70 to 90%, by weight.

47. Use of asymmetric lamellar aggregates of phospholipids and at least one fluorocarbon laiden with oxygen, in the manufacture of a cosmetic for controlled supply of oxygen to the skin, said phospholipids having a phosphatidylcholine content of 30 to 99%, by weight, and said at least one fluorocarbon being present in the range of 0.2 to 100%, weight/volume, of the aggregates.

48. Asymmetric lamellar aggregates of phospholipids and at least one fluorocarbon laiden with oxygen, said phospholipids having a phosphatidylcholine content of 30 to 99%, by weight, and said at least one fluorocarbon being present in the range of 0.2 to 100%, weight/volume, of the aggregates, for use in a cosmetic providing controlled supply of oxygen to the skin.

49. A cosmetic composition comprising: 0.05 to 60%, by weight, of the composition of asymmetric lamellar aggregates of phospholipids and at least one fluorocarbon laiden with oxygen, said aggregates containing from 0.2 to 100%, weight/volume, of said fluorocarbon, and said phospholipids containing 30 to 99%, by weight, of phosphatidylchlorine, and an acceptable cosmetic carrier, said at least one fluorocarbon having a critical solubility temperature effective for controlled skin penetration.

50. A composition according to claim 49, wherein said at least one fluorocarbon is perfluorodecalin.

51. A composition according to claim 49, wherein said phospholipids comprise egg phospholipids and said phosphatidylcholine is egg phosphatidylcholine.