SE461436B - PROCEDURE FOR LOCK PERMANENT OR SHIPPING PREPARATION OF ITS APPLICABLE PERMANENT COMPOSITION FOR APPLICATION IN THAT PROCEDURE - Google Patents

Description

461 456 2 Curling permanent or straightening permanent hair with reduced agents such as mercaptans, sulfites or phosphines are accompanied almost without exception from a deterioration of the grip properties of the hair per and that the hair becomes more difficult to sort out and comb. This applies to all types of hair and is especially noticeable when in the case of hair which has been subjected to bleaching before dyeing, dyeing or being exposed to the weather for a long time and wind. The conventional way of improving the hair able to treat the permanent hair with different conditions ionizing agents, such as alkyldimethylbenzyl halides, emulsions of mineral oil, lanolin, etc. Conditioners thereof type is usually added in the neutralization step during the the shaving permanent procedure. Although these conditioning compounds improve the grip of the hair and make it more easy to comb. food, their beneficial effects are only of a transitional nature and is completely lost when the hair is shampooed.

U.S. Patent No. 3,912,808 discloses a proceeding those for curling or straightening hair, which includes a permanent lotion containing a reducing agent and a polydimethyldiallylammonium chloride, a cationic polymer. Of- the veil in this patent is used in a commercial product, which have been tested and compared in the present context. Poly- dimethyldiallylammonium chloride is not used in accordance with the present invention.

U.S. Patent 4,175 S72 relates to an alkaline hair relaxation composition and does not relate to curling irons or shaving permanent and said composition containing also holds i.a. polydimethyldiallylammonium chloride. The polymer can also be applied separately from the alkaline relaxation the agent, before or after its application. It is stated that a acidic shampoo is used after relaxation and conditioning for removal of excess alkaline solution. The last the shampooing step or its composition is specified not specified and does not form part of the conditioning procedure. In that sense, it can be equated with the commercial product based on the above-mentioned US 3 _ 461 456 No. 3,912,808, in which a cationic surfactant is used in the neutralizing composition. Except not utilizing polydimethyldiallylammonium chloride requires the present invention in contrast to the prior art the specific the presence of an anionic surfactant to form one conditioning precipitate in the presence of hair. The present in addition, is not applicable in connection with strong alcohol lical relaxation compositions.

It has now been shown that a lasting condition can be achieved. hair removal during curling or straightening a procedure which, by its very nature, is superior to technology, and this conditioning resists shampoos. The procedure involves treating the hair with an aqueous perming composition, containing an effective amount of a reducing agent and a cationic polymer, which is defined in more detail below, and then treated the hair with an aqueous neutralizing composition, which contains an oxidizing agent and an anionic surfactant.

As a result of the sequence of initial reduction in permanent step and subsequent neutralization steps and a unique bination of constituents is formed in_hair a conditioning complex, which is stable to repeated shampoos.

Accordingly, it is an object of the present invention to provide a lid permanent procedure or straightening of hair, which leaves the hair in a conditional condition, which resists repeated shampoos.

An object of the present invention is also to provide keep a composition, which is useful in performing the above specified procedure.

In this description and the appended claims, any chemicals with reference to their CTFA name as they included in the Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary of the Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association, Inc. 461 436 4 The cationic polymer used in accordance with the present invention invention is poly (methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride), which are prepared by polymerization in a manner known per se of the corresponding monomer, marketed by Texaco Chemicals under the trade name MAPTAC. This polymer is said to consist of recurring units of the formula CH3 cuz c cH Meadow C143 + CONHCHZCHZCHZN where n is a number proportional to the molecular weight, which is between 5000 and 500000. This polymer is denoted in the following "Clairquat-1".

As mentioned above, the particular cationic polymer is included in question in the reducing lotion used in the process.

The amount of cationic polymer present in the reducing agent the lotion, may vary slightly depending on the results provided desired to be achieved. Usually the amount is between about 0.2% by weight and about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the reducing lotion, wherein the optimal range is between about 1% by weight and about 5% by weight. ' s - 461 436 No structural or known physico-chemical characteristics of cationic polymers can be used to predict whether a cationic polymer can be used in accordance with the present invention invention. Consequently, it has been found that a number of ionic polymers provide an unsatisfactory lasting condition tion here as they replace it according to the present finning.specified polymer. Some of the cationic polymers which have been shown to work unsatisfactorily are: quaternized poly-2-vinylpyridine; adipic acid / epoxypropyldiethylenetriamine copolymer (marketed by Hercules Chemical Co. under the trade name Delsette 101); adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyldiethylenetriamine copolymer more (marketed by Sandoz; Inc. under the brand name Cartaretin F-4); poly (N- (3-dimethylamino) propyl) -N '- (3- (ethyleneoxyethylenedimethyl- amino) propyl) urea dichloride (marketed under the trade name Mirapol A15 by Miranol Chemical Co., Inc.); quaternium-23, a quaternary ammonium polymer formed by dimethyl sulfate and a copolymer of vinyl pyrrolide and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate (marketed by GAF Corporation under the tradename Gafquat 755N); quaternium-19, a polymer of hydroxyethylcellulose reacted with epichlorohydrin and then quaternized with trimethylamine (marketed by Union Carbide Corp. under the tradename Polymer JR 400); a quaternary ammonium derivative of a hydrolysed collagen protein (marketed by Croda, Inc. under the tradename Crotein 0); quaternium-39, a copolymer of acrylamide and beta-methacrylic oxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate (marketed by Hercules Chemicals cal Co. under the trade name Reten 205 M); aminoethyl acrylate phosphate / acrylate copolymer (marketed by National Starch Co. under the trade name Catrex); and quaternium-41, which is a copolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium nium chloride with acrylamide (marketed by Merck & Co. Inc. under trade name Merquat-550). 461 436 6 In addition to the cationic polymer, it can be as used herein the invention use the permanent or reducing lotion also contain other conventional ingredients, which are gene is used in such a permanent lotion. Thus can the carrier of the lotion be an aqueous carrier, in which is included one or more reducing agents. A variety of reducing agents are known in the art to be useful in lid permits. nentning or shaving permanent hair. As an example, thioglycolic acid, cysteine, thiolactic acid, sodium, potassium and ammonium sulfites and bisulfites and tris (hydroxyethyl phosphate nice). Although the present invention is applicable to all curling and straightening compositions are those reducing agent used in the preferred embodiment of the present invention thioglycolic acid and alkali metal salts ters, for example sodium salts, of sulfuric acid (e.g. sulfites and bisulfites).

The amount of reducing agent included in the permanent lotion also varies slightly depending on the selected reducing agent and the result you want to achieve. Usually contains however, the permanent lotion from about 0.5 to about 20% by weight reducing agent, calculated on the total weight of the permanent lotion.

Optimal results are achieved when the reducing agent is from approx 2 to about 10% by weight of the total weight of the lotion. With the expression "effective quantity" in connection with the indication of any part of the composition in the present context means a quantity, which is effective in achieving the intended purpose. In general, is not a specified concentration range critical and inventive is not based on any particular concentration but rather on the components themselves. The amount that is most effective can be determined by routine experimentation.

In addition, the permanent lotion may contain fragrances, alkalis and other conventional permanent constituents parts. Mostly the lotion has a pH value within the range from about 5 to about 10.

The second essential component of the present condition U 7 461 436 systems are amphoteric or anionic detergents, which constitute part of the neutralizing lotion. There are a number of detergents suitable for use in accordance with the present invention. However, two classes of detergents have proved to be particularly effective. The first class can illustrated by the formula cuzcoox-: a R i ___ Xirl .. cuzc fl zocazcoo ' N CH where R is a long chain fatty acid group having 10-18 carbon atoms. One 2 CHá A typical example of such a compound is a compound in which R draws a coconut fatty acid group. A material belonging to this class is known as amphoteric-2 and is marketed under the product the name Miranol CZMSF.

A second class of amphoteric detergents, which are particularly effective for the purposes of the present invention, may be illustrated with the formula R - NH - CH - CH 2 2 - COOH wherein R is a long chain fatty alkyl group having 10-18 carbon atoms. IN an example of such a detergent, R in the formula is a mixture of lauryl and myristyl fatty alkyl groups. This material is known as lauramine propionic acid and is marketed under the trade name Deriphat 170C.

Not all amphoteric surfactants have been shown to be appropriate. Thus, none of a number of betaines have been shown operate in accordance with the present invention. Since the tainer are zwitterionic associations one would expect that certain zwitterionic surfactants would not work at all do although we have found that zwitterionic surfactants are 461 436 8 acceptable. By the term "amphoteric surfactant" is meant in in the present context an amphoteric surfactant, which functions according to the present invention. Whether one surfactant is an amphoteric surfactant can easily and routinely determined by setting a water-soluble diluting the surfactant into an alkaline solution of any of the indicated cationic polymers and thereby a precipitate formed, the amphoteric surfactant is an amphoteric surfactant duct. As amphoteric surfactants become anionic above its pKa value includes the term "anionic surfactant" in the present context both anionic surfactants and amphoteric surfactant products.

All tested anionic detergents have been found to be reversible in the present invention; thus achieving sal- alkyl sulphonates, alkyl sulphates, sulphonated and sulphate alkyl ethers as well as long chain carboxylic acids (where chain the length consists of at least 10 carbon atoms) formation of complex. As examples of suitable anionic detergents sodium lauryl sulphate, sodium lauryl ether sulphate, TEA lauryl sulfate, sodium stearate, etc.

The amount of amphoteric or anionic detergent contained in the The tralized lotion of the present invention varies somewhat depending on the economy and the intended result. Vanli- however, the amount thereof is from about 0.2 to about 50% by weight. and ideally from about 0.5 to about 20% by weight, based on the the total weight of the tralizing lotion.

The neutralizing lotion may also contain other ingredients parts commonly used in such neutralizing lotions, which are surface used in hair curling permanent or hair straightening procedures. Even in this case is usually the carrier an aqueous carrier containing an oxidizing agent, which has the task of "neutralizing" the effect of the detergents included in the permanent lotion after that it has been applied to the hair. A number of oxidizing agents are known. for those skilled in the art to be useful for these purposes. These includes, for example, hydrogen peroxide, sodium and potassium bromates, 9 461436 sodium perborate, etc.

The amount of oxidizing agent contained in the neutralizing tion may also vary slightly; even in this case the quantity is depending on the selected reducing agent and the desired result tatet. Mostly the oxidizing agent is from 0.2 to 20% by weight, calculated on the total weight of the neutralizing lotion. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention is the oxidizing agent from about 1% to about 10% by weight, based on the neutralizing total weight of the tion.

In addition, other constituents may be included in the neutralizing agent lotions. Mention may be made of such materials as organic and inorganic acids (for example phosphoric acid, citric acid, etc.). pH value that of the neutralizing lotion is usually within the interval from about 2 to about 10, with the exception of the case then an amphoteric surfactant is used, in which case the pH is more on the basic sidef The term "anionic surfactant" as used herein includes the contexts amphoteric surfactants, then the pH of the neutralizing composition is above the pKa value for the amphoteric surfactant, since in such The pH of the amphoteric compound is anionic in nature.

The compositions of the present invention may suitably marketed in a package containing two containers, wherein one contains the permanent lotion comprising it the cationic polymer and the reducing agent and the other the container contains the neutralizing solution, which contains keeps the neutralizing agent and the anionic surfactant medlet.

The invention is further illustrated by the following embodiments. example.

Example 1 Permanent lotion 461 436 10 A hair permanent lotion was prepared with the following -setting: Liïfšå ammonium thioglycolate 7.0 monoethanolamine 3.5 fragrance 0.1 Clairquat-1 3.0 water to 100.0 Neutralizing lotion This was prepared with the following composition: Weight% ammonium lauryl sulfate 3.0 water peroxide 1.4 phosphoric acid 0.1 water to 100.0 In addition to the above samples, both permanence samples were prepared the lotion and the neutralizing lotion even without the polymeric and anionic detergent, respectively.

Four bundles of undamaged Caucasian here were treated below identical conditions in terms of time and temperature, followed by rinsing and neutralization. The bundles of hair were wound up on 13 mm coils and two of them were saturated with the permanent lotion containing the polymer, while the other two were saturated with the permanent lotion without the cationic polymer.

All hair bundles were wrapped in Saran Wrap and placed 20 minutes in an oven at 35 ° C. Thereafter, the permanent the lotion was removed and the tufts of hair were treated while were wound on the coils with the neutralizers the solutions for 5 minutes. The neutralizing solution containing ammonium lauryl sulfate was applied to two of the permanent hair clips (a permanent with and a permanent without the polymer), while the other two hair bundles are 11 461 456 was treated with the neutralizing lotion that did not contain ammonium lauryl sulfate.

It turned out that only the permanent hair bundle that had treated with the polymer-containing permanent lotion and with the neutralizing lotion containing the anionic the detergent was soft, glossy and conditioned. The effect turned out to last for at least four shampoos.

Example 2 below compares an embodiment of the invention directly with products, which are now available on the market.

One of the products (product I) contains a cationic polymer, i.e. a high molecular weight polydimethyldiallylammonium chloride, in per- the curing lotion and a cationic conditioner used in the neutralization step. This product is marketed un- under the trade name Toni Lightwave and has been produced accordingly U.S. Patent 3,912,808. the product, product II, does not contain any polymer in the nentning lotion but contains conditioner in it neutralizing solution.

Example 2 Permanent lotion A hair permanent lotion was prepared with the following setting: Weight% ammonium sulfite 3.0 sodium sulfite 2.0 onamer 5.0 cysteine-HCl 0.2 water to 100.0 Neutralizing lotion This was prepared with the following composition: 461 436 12 Xëíëâ sodium bromate 6.0 ammonium lauret sulfate 6.0 preservative 0.1 fragrance 0.1 water to 1,100.0 The procedures used for each product can be taken is described as follows: Procedure with product I Clean (shampooed) and damp bundles of hair were wound on spools using top paper. The activator and stabilizer satator in product I was poured into the perming composition. Ef- After careful shaking for 30 seconds, the lotion was applied on the twisted bundles of hair until the hair was saturated. Hair- the bundles were then placed in an oven at 35 ° C for 35 minutes.

The hair was then rinsed for 2 minutes under tap water. Ef- After rinsing, the hair was removed from the spools and treated with the conditioner in product I (optional step), which was well incorporated into the hair. After 1 minute, the hair was rinsed. sadly.

Procedure with product II The permanent lotion was applied to clean (shampooed) and damp bundles of hair and wound on spools during use. top papers. The lotions saturated with the lotion invite was then placed in a plastic hood and placed in an oven for 1 hour at 35 ° C. The hair was then rinsed for 3 minutes under the wreath. water and the excess water were removed with a paper towel and the bundles of hair were saturated with the neutralizing lotion. Ef- After 10 minutes at 35 ° C, the tufts of hair were removed from the spools, the neutralizing lotion was carefully incorporated into the hair the bundles, which were then rinsed thoroughly. Hair bundles comb- was allowed to air dry. 15 / 5 461 436 The procedure used was that which had been described in connection with product II until water rinsing 2 minutes after 1 hours of treatment. After rinsing, the tufts of hair were removed from the coils and treated with 1 ml of the neutralizing agent the bromine lotion, the latter being worked up into a foam and allowed to work in the hair for 5 minutes, after which the hair bundles rinsed thoroughly.

Each of the above procedures was performed on 6 hairs. bundles of both natural and three-colored hair.

The permanent tufts of hair were evaluated for and dry combability using the technology written by Garcia and Diaz (J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. 21 (1976) 379. The test procedure essentially involves allowing one hair bundle pass a comb, which is connected to a wire elongation sensor, which in turn is connected to a registrar instrument. The work that goes into getting the hair to pass through the cam is registered by the integrator and constitutes an effective measure of the lightness or difficulty of combing the hair.

The greater the value, the more difficult it is to comb the hair and des- to less conditioned is thus the hair. Data both for those natural and the colored tufts of hair are shown in Table 1 below.

Table 1 Wet and dry combability of permanent hair Combing work (gcm) Natural hair Colored hair Product wet Dry Wet Dry Control test no permanence 337 277 2567 3606 Product I 363 225 1979 2392 Product II 682 273 3060 1392 Product acc. the invention 142 217 260 361 461 436 / L / No significant difference in condition could be observed efficiency of these products after as many as six repeated applications. m!

Claims (4)

/ f 461 436 ønTENTKRQv) A method of curling or straightening hair which leaves the hair in a conditioned condition which resists repeated shampoos, (a) treating the hair with an aqueous perming composition which contains an effective amount of a reducing agent. ionizing agent and at least one cationic polymer, and then (b) treating the hair with an aqueous neutralizing composition containing an oxidizing agent and an anionic surfactant, characterized in that the cationic polymer has the formula ï 'CH 2 C CH 3 + CONHCHZCHZCHZN CH3 ca, n where Q is a number that is proportional to the molecular weight, which is between 5000 and 500000. 2. A process according to claim 1, characterized in that the permanence composition, calculated on the total weight of the composition, contains 0.5-20% by weight of reducing agent and 0.2-10% by weight of cationic polymer and that it 461 The 436 M neutralizing composition, based on the total weight of this composition, contains 0.2% by weight of oxidizing agent and 0.2-50% by weight of surfactant. A process according to claim 1 or claim 3, characterized in that (a) the reducing agent is thioglycolic acid or an alkali metal salt of sulfuric acid; (b) the oxidizing agent is sodium peroxide or sodium or potassium bromate; and (c) that the surfactant is sodium or ammonium lauryl sulfate. Aqueous hair permanent composition for use in curling or straightening hair according to claim 1, characterized in that, based on the total weight of the composition, it contains (a) 0.5-20% by weight of a reducing agent and (b) 0 , 2-10% by weight of at least one cationic polymer of the formula CH3 - cuz c conucazc fl zc fl zn * where Q is a number proportional to the molecular weight between 5000 and 500000.