DE3303346A1 - METHOD FOR WAVING OR SMOOTHING AND SIMULTANEOUSLY CONDITIONING HAIR, AND A HAIRWAVE COMPOSITION FOR USE IN THIS METHOD - Google Patents

Description

The invention relates to compositions and methods for waving or straightening hair, in particular human hair; more particularly, the invention relates to compositions and methods of the aforesaid type which leave the hair in a conditioned or improved condition.

Hair curling or straightening (often referred to as a "permanent" treatment) usually includes; Applying a Means for reducing or splitting the disulfide bridges of the keratin in the hair (referred to herein as "reducing agent", and compositions containing a reducing agent are referred to herein as "reducing" or "well" "composition" or "lotion"), which allows the hair to be shaped without internal elasticity or other resistance, and the subsequent application of a neutralizing agent that restores the keratin bonds and that Sets hair in its new desired shape. The neutralizing agent is generally an oxidizing agent solution, such as an aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution or the like.

Different from waving and straightening hair with a reducing agent solution is the so-called relaxing or recovering hair, taking strong alkali, usually in the form paste or cream is applied. The mechanism of action of the alkali is different from that of a reducing agent in a common permanent waving or smoothing agent.

While in the latter case the keratin disulphide bridges are split and remain split until they are restored by the neutralizing agent, the converts Alkali treatment the disulfide bridges of the keratin in monosulfide bonds um and the following "neutralization" with an acid is just the usual neutralization of the rest Base with an acid. Thereafter, as used herein, the terms "waves" and "smoothing" include the Relaxation or relaxation of hair with strong base does not involve.

Waving or straightening hair with reducing agents such as mercaptans, Sulphites, or phosphines, are almost always accompanied by a deterioration in the gripping properties of the hair (i.e. the hair does not feel as smooth and soft as it did before the treatment), with more confusion and heavier Combing connected. This applies to all hair types and is especially troublesome with hair that has been bleached before waving or has been shaped or has been exposed to the weather for a long time. The usual way to improve this situation consists in treating the hair with conditioning agent, such as Alkyl-dimethyl-benzy! Halides, emulsions of mineral oil, Treat lanolin and the like. Conditioning agent1 this Art are usually incorporated in the neutralization stage of the corrugating or smoothing process. Although these conditioning compounds improve the grip of the hair and a light

res combing, they have the disadvantage that these good effects are only temporary and completely lost go when the hair is shampooed.

US Pat. No. 3,912,808 discloses a method for waving or straightening hair, in which a We! Lotion is used which contains a reducing agent and a cationic polymer, namely a polydimethyldiallylammonium chloride. A commercial product based on the teachings of this PS was made in Connection tested with this application and used for comparison. Polydimethyldiallylammonium chloride is according to of the present invention is not used.

U.S. Patent 4,175,572 does not relate to curling or straightening, but to a hair relaxer which, among other things, also contains polydimethyldiallylammoniurachloride. This polymer can therefore be applied separately from the alkaline relaxation agent, before or after it. It is stated that after relaxing and conditioning, an acidic shampoo was used to remove excess alkaline solution to remove. The final shampoo level or composition of the shampoo has not been specified further and is not part of the conditioning process described. In this sense, the commercial product based on the aforementioned US Pat. No. 3,912,808, in which a cationic surfactant is in the neutral

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composition is used to be equated. In contrast, according to the invention, polydimethyldiallylammonium chloride is used not used and in addition the presence of an anionic surfactant is specifically required, to form the conditioning precipitate in the presence of the hair. In addition, the composition according to the invention is in connection with strongly alkaline relaxation compositions not usable.

The invention is based on the object of specifying a method for waving or straightening hair, which the hair in leaves a conditioned state that can withstand repeated shampooing; a composition is to be created that is suitable for performing this procedure.

The object is achieved by the method of claim 1 and the composition of claim 4. Advantageous embodiments are specified in the subclaims.

It has been found that permanent conditioning of hair can be obtained in a hair waving or straightening process can, which is superior in its effects to conventional techniques and persists through repeated shampooing remain. The method is characterized by the treatment of hair with an aqueous hair care composition which

an effective amount of reducing agent and at least one cationic polymer from the group of poly- (dimethylbutenyl-ammonium chloride) ~ <L, CC> -triethanolammonium chloride, CTFA name onamer, quaternized polyvinylamine, CTFA name QPVAMINE, quaternized polyvinylpyridine, CTFA name.QPVP and poly (methacrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride), CTFA designation Clairquat-1, which are further defined below, and then treating the hair with an aqueous neutralizing composition containing an oxidizing agent and an anionic surfactant. As a result of the sequence of reducing in the waving or straightening stage and then neutralizing in the neutralizing stage and a particular combination of ingredients, a conditioning complex is formed in the hair which is resistant to repeated shampooing.

Other features of the invention will appear from the description that follows.

In the following description, wherever possible, the chemicals are referred to by their CTFA names as they are in the Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary of The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association, Inc.

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The cationic polymers that are suitable for the purpose of the invention are a few specific types. Molecular weights are reported herein on a weight basis. A slightly less preferred type is Polyquaternium-1, a polymeric quaternized dimethylbutenylammonium chloride with terminal quaternized ethanolamine groups, (from Onyx Chemicals Co. marketed under the name Onamer M), hereinafter referred to as "Onamer". This polymer has the formula:

Cl

OH-CH ₀ CH ,; N CH ₀ -CH = CH-CH ₀ -

2 2/2 2

Cl

N ⁺ - CH ₂ -CH = CH = CH

CH-

Cl

.CH ₂ CH ₂ OH

-N

H ₂ CH ₂ OH

in which η is a base number corresponding to the molecular weight; the molecular weight is 800 to 5000, preferably 1000 to 3500.

Moving on to the more preferred cationic polymers, there are other types than are used in the present invention can, polymers and copolymers of quaternized polyvinylamine, manufactured in a manner known per se. It is believed that they are repetitive from the following Units are formed.

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CH

-CH-

■ R,

in which R ,, R ₂ and R ₃ , which can be the same or different, are alkyl groups with 1 to 20 carbon atoms, X is a cosmetically acceptable anion, such as halide (eg iodide or chloride), sulfate or carboxylate, and η is a basic number , which is proportional to the molecular weight. The molecular weight is expediently between 3000 and 150,000. This polymer is referred to as "QPVAMINE". Trimethyl polyvinyl ammonium sulfate, which is presumably made up of repeating units with the following structure, can be cited as an example

CH,

-CH-
-Y ⁺ -

GH,

-CH

2 CH-

.CH

-N ⁺ -CH.

CH.,

so"

and has an average molecular weight of about 50,000.

Another type of material suitable as a cationic material is a polymer of quaternized poly-4-vinylpyridine, which in an

... / 11

is made in a known manner. It can be described by the following general formula:

in which: R is an alkyl radical with 1 to 20 carbon atoms and X is a cosmetically acceptable anion, such as a halide or sulfate or carboxylate. It also has a molecular weight ranging from about 5,000 to about 500,000. This polymer will referred to herein as "OPVP".

As an example of a cationic polymer of this type, the following may be mentioned:

Polyvinyl methyl pyridinium iodide, e.g. Molecular weight of about 50,000.

... / 12

Another cationic polymer that has been found to Which gives excellent results in this invention is poly (methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride) which is used in in a manner known per se by polymerizing the corresponding Monomers is obtained. It is marketed by Texaco Chemicals under the name MAPTAC. This Polymer should be built up from repeating units with the following structure

CH.

CH.

Cl

in which η is a number proportional to the molecular weight. The molecular weight is preferably between 5000 and 500,000. This polymer is hereinafter referred to as "Clairquat-1".

As indicated above, the particular cationic polymers described are in the reducing lotion, which are in the Procedure used included. The amount of the cationic polymer that is present in the reducing lotion can vary slightly depending on the results you want. Usually it will be about 0.2 to about 10 weight percent based on

... / 13

the total weight of the reducing lotion / will be the optimal Range is about 1 to about 5 weight percent.

There can be neither structural nor physico-chemical characteristics of the cationic polymers can be used to predict whether a cationic polymer according to the invention can be used. Accordingly, it has been found that a number of cationic polymers, when in place that are used here disclosed and claimed do not give sufficient permanent conditioning. Some of these cationic polymers that have been found to be inadequate are:

quaternized poly-2-vinylpyridine Ad ipic acid / Epox ipropy1-d ie thyle ntriamine copolymers (from Hercules Chemical Co. under the name Delsette 101 in brought to trade);

Adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyldiethylenetriamine copolymer (marketed by Sandoz Inc. under the name Cartaretic P-4);

Poly (N- (3-dimethylamino) porpyl) -N'- (3- {ethyleneoxyethylene dimethylamino) propyl) urea dichloride (marketed by Miranol Chemical Co. Inc. under the name Mirapol A15);

Quaternium-23, a quaternary ammonium polymer by reacting dimethyl sulfate and a co-

... / 14

polymer of vinyl pyrrolidone and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate (from GAF Corporation under the name Gafquat 755N placed on the market);

Quaternium-19, a polymer of hydroxyethyl cellulose, reacted with epichlorohydrin and then with trimethylamine quaternized (marketed by Union Carbide Corp. under the name Polymer JR-400); a quaternary ammonium derivative of a hydrolyzed one Collagen protein (marketed by Croda Inc. under the name Crotein 0); Ouaternium-3 9 / a copolymer of acrylamide and beta-Me thac rylox ie thy1-1rimethylammonium-metho sulfate (from Hercules Chemical Co. marketed under the name Reten 205 M);

Aminoethyl acrylate phosphate / acrylate copolymer (from National Starch Co. under the name Catrex brought); and

Quaternium-41, a copolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride with acrylamide (marketed by Merck & Co. Inc. under the name Merquat-550.

In addition to the cationic polymer, the waving or reducing lotion / used in this invention / as well as other common ingredients commonly used in such waving lotions are used. The carrier of the lotion is an aqueous carrier to which one or more reducing agents are added.

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are working. Many reducing agents are known which are suitable for waving or straightening hair. As examples can be named: thioglycolic acid, cysteine, thiolactic acid, sodium, potassium and ammonium sulfites and bisulfites, Tris- (hydroxyethylphosphine). Although the invention with all These corrugating and smoothing agents can be carried out are the reducing agents in the preferred embodiment of the invention are used, thioglycolic acid and alkali metal salts, e.g. sodium salts of sulphurous acids, e.g. sulphites and bisulphites.

The amount of reducing agent contained in the waving lotion can also vary, depending on the agent selected and the results you want. Usually, however, the waving lotion contains about 0.5 to about 20% by weight of reducing agent, based on the total weight of the waving lotion. Optimal results are obtained when the reducing agent is in a Amount of about 2 to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the lotion, is present. The term "effective amount" as used in the description and claims with reference to any component of the composition an amount effective to attaining the intended purpose. In general the concentration ranges are not critical, and the invention does not reside in any particular concentration, but in the components themselves. The amount that will be most effective can be determined through routine experimentation.

... / 16

The waving lotion can also contain fragrances and alkalizing agents and other common waving lotion ingredients. Usually the waving lotion has a pH value in the range from about 5 to about 10.

The second essential component of the conditioning system according to the invention are amphoteric or anionic surfactants or detergents / which form part of the neutralizing lotion. There are a number of amphoteric detergents which are suitable for the purposes of the invention. However have two classes of detergents have been found to be effective. The first class can be given by the general formula below be reproduced

R-

H ₂ COONa

CH,

in the R a long-chain fatty acid residue with 10 to 18 carbon atoms means. A typical example of such a compound or compounds is the case in which R stands for coconut fatty acid residues stands. One such material is known as Amphoteric-2; it is marketed under the name Miranol C2MSF brought.

... / 17

A second type of amphoteric detergent used for the purpose of the invention is particularly effective can be represented by the following formula:

R-NH-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -COOH

in which R is a long-chain alkyl radical with 10 to 18 carbon atoms means. In an example of such a detergent, R in the formula is a mixture of lauryl and myristyl alkyl groups. D. This material is known as lauraminopropionic acid and is sold under the name Deriphat 170C »

Not all amphoteric surfactants have been found suitable. Only a number of betaines work according to the invention. Since betaines are zwitterionic compounds, one might expect that some zwitterionic surfactants did not work as well, although zwitterionic surfactants were found that are acceptable. The term "amphoteric surfactant product" means in the description and claims that the amphoteric surfactant works according to the invention. Whether any amphoteric surfactant is an amphoteric surfactant product can be easily and routinely determined be by converting an aqueous solution of the surfactant to an alkaline solution of one of the claimed cationic Polymers and if a precipitate occurs then the surfactant is an amphoteric surfactant product. Since amphoteric surfactants become anionic above their pKa value,

... / 18

includes the term "anionic surfactant" in this specification and claims both anionic surfactants and amphoteric surfactant products.

All of the anionic detergents that have been tested have been found to be useful in the invention. Thus, salts of alkyl sulfonates, alkyl sulfates, sulfonated and sulfated alkyl ethers and long-chain carboxylic acids (the chain length of which is at least C, _Q ) show the formation of conditioning complexes. Instead of specific explanation of the anionic detergents which are suitable, the following may be mentioned: sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl ether sulfate, TEA lauryl sulfate, sodium stearate, etc.

The amount of amphoteric or anionic detergent contained in the neutralizing lotion of the invention varies something, depending on economic considerations and that desired results. Usually, however, the amount will range from about 0.2 to about 50 weight percent, preferably in the range from about 0.5 to about 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the neutralizing lotion.

The neutralizing lotion can contain other ingredients that are common in such neutralizing lotions that are used in hair waving or smoothing processes are used. The carrier can in turn be an ordinary aqueous carrier, the

... / 19th

Contains oxidizing agent, which serves to reduce the effectiveness of the in the reducing agent contained in the wave lotion after it is on the head is upset to neutralize. The expert knows many oxidizing agents that serve this purpose. she include: hydrogen peroxide, sodium and potassium bromate, Sodium perborate, etc.

The amount of oxidizer that is in the neutralizing lotion may vary somewhat, again depending on the agent chosen and the results desired. In most cases it is between about 0.2 and about 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the neutralizing lotion. In a preferred embodiment of the invention the oxidizer makes up about 1 to about 10 weight percent of the total weight the neutralizing solution.

In addition to the above ingredients, the neutralizing solution also contain other components customary in such solutions. Mention can be made of materials such as inorganic and organic acids (e.g. phosphoric acid, citric acid, etc.). The pH of the neutralizing lotion is usually in the range from about 2 to about 10, except when an amphoteric surfactant is used; in this case the pH is more on the basic side.

The term "anionic surfactant" as used in the description

... / 20

Exercise and claims used includes amphoteric surfactant products when the pH of the neutralizing composition is above the pKa value of the amphoteric surfactant product, since at such basic pH values the amphoteric Product has an anionic character.

The compositions of the invention can be sold in a pack containing two containers, e.g., bottles will. One of the containers contains the corrugated solution including at least one of the listed cationic polymers and the reducing agent, the other contains the reducing solution, which contains the reducing agent and the anionic surfactant.

The specific examples that now follow are intended to illustrate the nature of the Illustrate the invention in more detail, but do not represent any Limitation of the invention.

example 1

Well-Lotion - A hair-waving lotion with the following composition was produced:

Wt. Ammonium thioglycollate 7.0 Mono thano1amine 3.5 Fragrance 0.1 Clairquat-1 3.0 Water on 100.0

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Weight Tie. 3 , 0 1 , 4 O Vl- 100 / 0

Neutralizing Lotion - A neutralizing lotion with the following composition was prepared:

Ammonium laurel sulfate What se rs toffpe rox id phosphoric acid water on

In addition to the above samples, the lotion and the neutralizing lotion even without the cationic polymer or the anionic wetting agent produced.

Four rows of intact Caucasian locks of hair were treated under the same temperature and time conditions and then rinsed and neutralized. The strands were wound on 1.27 cm rods, two of them with the waving lotion, which contained the polymer, while the other two with the white lotion without the cationic polymer were saturated. All tresses were then wrapped in plastic wrap (Saran Wrap) and placed in an oven at 35 ° C for 20 minutes held. After this time, the waving lotion was rinsed out and the strands, while they were still on the wand, for 5 minutes treated with the neutralizing lotion. The neutralizing lotion, which contained ammonium lauryl sulfate was applied to two wavy tresses (one with and the other without the polymer curled), and the other two strands were

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with the neutralizing solution, which is not ammonium lauryl sulfate contained, treated.

It was found that only the wavy strands of hair with the white solution containing the polymer and the anionic Treated neutralizing solution containing wetting agents soft, shiny, and conditioned. It was found that the effect persisted and at least outlasted four shampoos.

In Example 2, which now follows, the Versions compared directly with the products that are currently are on the market. In one of the products (Product I) is a cationic polymer, i.e. a high molecular weight polydimethyldiallylammonium chloride contained in the corrugating solution and a cationic conditioning agent is used in the neutralization stage 1 used; the product is commercially available under the trademark Toni Lightwave and manufactured according to US Pat. No. 3,912,808. The other product, Product II, does not contain any polymer in the waving lotion, but should contain one in the neutralizing solution Conditioning agents may be included.

Example 2 '

Wellotion - A hair waving lotion with the following composition was produced:

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Parts by weight

Ammonium sulfite 3.0

Sodium sulfite 2.0

Oname r 5.0

Cysteine HCl 0.2

Water to 100.0

Neutralizing Lotion - A neutralizing lotion with the following composition was prepared:

Wt.

Sodium bromate 6.0

Ammonium lauryl sulfate 6.0

Preservative 0.1

Fragrance 0.1

Water to 100.0

The methods used for each of the products are described below:

Method for product I:

Cleaned (scharr.pv.nierte) damp strands of hair were on Rods wound using end papers. Activator and stabilizer of product I were added to the well solution poured. After shaking for 30 seconds, the lotion was applied to the pre-coated tresses until the hair was well saturated. The tresses were then placed in a 35 ° oven for 3-5 minutes. After that, the strands were

... / 24

Rinsed with tap water for 2 minutes. After rinsing the hair was taken off the bars and with the Conditioner of Product I (Optional Stage) treated by working the conditioning agent well into the hair became. After one minute the hair was rinsed thoroughly.

Method for product II;

On cleaned (shampooed) damp strands of hair that are on After the rods were wrapped using end papers, the white lotion was applied. The hair was saturated with the lotion, wrapped in plastic and placed in a warm oven for an hour. Then the strands became Rinsed with tap water for 3 minutes, removing excess water was removed with a paper towel and the tresses saturated with the neutralizing lotion. After 10 minutes at 35 ° were removed the strands from the wand, worked neutralizing lotion into the hair and then rinsed the hair thoroughly. That Hair was combed and left to air dry.

Method in the invention:

The method was the same as described for Product II, up to the rinsing after the one hour treatment in the oven, whereupon was rinsed for only 2 minutes. After rinsing, the hair was removed from the wand and rinsed with 1 ml of Brpmat neutralizer treated; the latter was transferred to a foam and left on the hair for 5 minutes, after which it was rinsed thoroughly.

... / 25

Each of the above treatment modalities was on six Natural tresses and carried out on six triple-colored tresses.

The wavy tresses were rated for wet and dry combability evaluated using the method used for these measurements by Garcia and Diaz (J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem, 27, 379, 1976). The test consists essentially of passing the lock of hair through a comb attached to a voltmeter is connected, which in turn is connected to a recording device. It's going to be work expended to perform the passage of the strand of hair through the comb, and this work, read by the integrator, is the objective degree of combing easy / difficult. The higher the values, the harder the hair is to comb and the less it is the hair is conditioned. Table I shows the values for undyed and colored hair strands.

Product Tab lie I Combing work hair Ltem hair dry Wet- control dry 3606 (not rolled) and dry combability of antlers 277 colored hair Product I. wet 2392 Product II uncolored 225 2567 1392 Product after the wet 273 invention 337 1979 361 217 3060 363 682 260 142

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o o U o j 4 ö

After as many as six repeated uses, there were no noticeable changes in the conditioning levels of these products established.

Although the invention is based on certain embodiments has been described, it is to be understood that many changes and modifications can be made without departing from the scope leave the invention.

Claims (4)

Paloninrv.vöüs Di- ι ··. '■ -' ■ '' -Ok Dr. · '■ :. ■ ■ r: itz υ .. -: ■ g γ. . . : ι
2GuO ν. "^ Ii'i., ..! / - Cl 86 3 3 O 3 3 A 6 Bristd-Myers Company Park Avenue New York, N.Y. 10154 / USA Method for waving or straightening and conditioning hair at the same time, as well as a hair wel! Composition for use in this procedure Sponsorship requests / A method for waving or straightening hair which leaves the hair in a conditioned state which is maintained over repeated shampooing, characterized by (a) treating the hair with an aqueous waving composition which contains an effective amount of a reducing agent and at least one of the cationic polymers Poly- (dimethyl-butenyl-ammonium chloride) -ct _r a0 -triäthanolamraoniumchlorid - Onamer,
quaternized polyvinylamine - QPVAMINE, ... 12 quaternized polyvinylpyridine - QPVP and poly- (methacrylamidopropyl-trimethylammonium chloride) - Clairquat-1 and then (b) treating the hair with an aqueous neutralizing composition which is an oxidizing agent and contains an anionic surfactant. 2. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that a corrugation composition is used based on the weight of this composition about 0.5 to about 20 wt .-% of the reducing agent and about 0.2 to 10 wt .-% of the cationic polymer, and a neutralizing composition which, based on the weight of this additive composition, about 0.2 to about 20 weight percent oxidizer and contains from about 0.2 to about 50 percent by weight of the surfactant. 3. The method according to any one of claims 1 and 2, characterized in that that (a) as a reducing agent thioglycolic acid or an alkali metal salt of sulfurous acid, (b) as a cationic polymer poly- (dimethyl-butenyl-ammonium chloride) - «t,« J -triethanolammonium chloride (Onamer M) one Molecular weight between 1000 and about 3 500 or poly (methacrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride) (Clairquat-1) a molecular weight of about 5000 to about 500,000, (c) as an oxidizing agent hydrogen peroxide or sodium or potassium bromate and (d) as surfactant sodium or Ammonium lauryl sulfate can be used. 4. Aqueous Haarwel! .- Composition for waving or straightening hair, characterized by a content of, based on the weight of the composition, (a) about 0.5 to about 20 wt .-% of a reducing agent and (b) about 0 , 2 to about 10% by weight of at least one cationic polymer from the group of poly (dimethyl-butenyl-ammonium chloride) - <t _f <w -triathanolammonium chloride (onamer), quaternized polyvinylamine (QPVAMINE), quaternized polyvinylpyridine (QPVP) and Poly (methacrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride) (Clairquat-1). 5, Two-piece pack for use in waving or straightening hair with two containers, one of which is aqueous Contains waving lotion, which is an aqueous solution of a reducing agent and at least one cationic polymer from the group consisting of poly (dimethyl-butenyl-ammonium chloride) - «v W-triathanolammonium chloride (onamer), quaternized Polyvinylamine (QPVAMINE), quaternized polyvinylpyridine (QPVP) and poly (methacrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride) (Clairquat-1), and the other container is one contains aqueous lotion of a neutralizing agent and an anionic surfactant.