RU2685240C1 - Titanium booster is an efficacy enhancer of biologically active substances contained in cosmetic agents - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: cosmetology.

SUBSTANCE: invention relates to cosmetic industry and represents an efficacy enhancer of biologically active substances contained in a cosmetic agent, comprising glycerol, water and an active ingredient, characterized in that titanium glycerate is used as an active component, wherein components in the amplifier are in a certain ratio, wt%.

EFFECT: invention provides a significant enhancement of the effectiveness of biologically active substances contained in the cosmetic agent, and as a result, achieving higher desired cosmetic effect on skin, namely active moistening, providing tone and elasticity, improved color, soothing action, safety of use and absence of allergic manifestations, high bioavailability of biologically active substances included in the composition of the cosmetic agent, and prolonged release thereof within deeper skin layers.

1 cl, 3 ex, 2 tbl

Description

The invention relates to the perfumery and cosmetic industry, namely to cosmetic products, which are amplifiers of cosmetic action (boosters, enhancers), which can be used both as an independent cosmetic product and with other cosmetic products for skin care of the face and body.

Boosters (enhancers) in cosmetology are mainly represented by foreign analogues in the form of essences, serums, gels, creams. They have a complex composition and are, as a rule, emulsions. These boosters have both a reinforcing effect when used with cosmetics and have their own effect (moisturizing, nourishing, antioxidant, etc.).

The booster line is most widely represented among European manufacturers of cosmetics, in particular France. So, the company Clarins (France) immediately produces 3 such products in the form of emulsion serums: Booster Detox (antioxidant), Booster Repair (skin repair), Booster Energy (saturating the skin). They are based on water, glycerin, propylene-butyl glycol emulsifiers, phenoxyethanol preservative, plant extracts. In addition, Clarins has patented its own natural enhancer - Kangzu root from China, which enhances the effect of other ingredients of cosmetics.

The French company VICHY also produces the MINERAL 89 booster, which is a serum gel that includes hydrophilic components: water, polybutylene glycol, glycerin, carbomer, sodium hyaluronate, and the preservative phenoxyethanol.

Another French manufacturer Cosmetics 27 produces 2 boosters: ESSENCE 27 and Complex 27 R serums. Boosters include 27 ingredients, are emulsions that contain water, bentonite, glycerin, hydroxyethylcellulose as hydrophilic components, and include vegetable oils and extracts as lipophilic components (lemon balm, lemon), hydrogenated lecithin emulsifier, etc.

Purifying Booster Serum. Включает более 30 компонентов и представляет эмульсию, в состав которой входят вода, водные экстракты листьев (розмарин, шалфей), глицерин, органические комплексы меди, цинка и кальция с пирролидонкарбоновой кислотой, фитомасла, неионогенный ПАВ лаурил глюкизид, бензиловый спирт (консервант), эмоленты и т.д.The French manufacturer Absolution produces cosmetic creams and booster for them - cleansing serum

Purifying Booster Serum. It includes more than 30 components and represents an emulsion consisting of water, water extracts of leaves (rosemary, sage), glycerin, organic complexes of copper, zinc and calcium with pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, phytooils, non-ionic surfactant lauryl glucidine, benzyl alcohol (preservative), emollients etc.

The boosters of the manufacturer Doctor Babor (Germany), which produces Collagen Booster Cream Rich, ampoule Collagen Booster Fluid and Vitamin C Booster Concentrate, are widely in demand on the German market. Boosters have a complex composition of more than 30 components and are oil-water emulsions.

The booster Swiss Line Cell Shock Facial Boosting Essence (Switzerland) is a complex serum containing CELLACTEL 2 complex, grape extracts, kombuchi, protein fractions from moringi seeds.

Cosmetic brands Topu Moly, Etude House, Mizon, The Saem, Skin INC are known in the ranges of Asian boosters. For example, the Japanese brand Skin INC. represented by the Licorice Serum CALM IRRITATED SKIN antioxidant serum booster for mixing with two other Skin Inc. serums. to enhance efficiency. Includes water, butylene- and pentylene glycol, glycerin, plant extracts of licorice, camellia, Chinese, preservative phenoxyethanol.

American manufacturer of cosmetics The Dr. Dennis Gross produces boosters in the form of emulsion serums: Clinical Concentrate Hydration Booster (moisturizing and smoothing the skin); serum Clinical Concentrate Radiance Booster (exfoliating and renewing the skin). Their composition is multicomponent (more than 50 items) and includes plant extracts of roots, fruits, leaves, glycerin, collagen, emulsifiers, preservatives (salicylic acid, lactic acid, sodium benzoate, benzyl salicylate).

The boosters of the American manufacturer (Philosophy) also include powder with vitamin C Turbo Booster C Powder, which includes ascorbic acid, panthenol, organic complexes of copper and zinc with pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, vegetable oils and extracts.

Production of boosters is actively engaged in the Australian company MV Organic Skincare. The range of manufactured boosters includes several items that differ in the direction of action: DAILY SOOTHER BOOSTER (for dry or damaged skin), ROSE PLUS BOOSTER (for all skin types), INSTANT REVIVAL BOOSTER (for devitalized skin). Boosters are complexes of vegetable oils (jojoba, wild rose, rose, lavender, etc.).

Known boosters are emulsion serums, gel serums, oil-water emulsions, and contain many components (30-50 names). An essential component of known boosters is a preservative, for example, phenoxyethanol or salicylic acid, lactic acid, sodium benzoate, benzyl salicylate.

The multicomponent composition of the known amplifiers leads to negative effects: toxicity, irritant and allergenic effects are manifested.

Preservative present in the composition can cause not only skin allergic reactions, but also asthma, nausea, headaches and can even affect the heredity of the disease.

The closest analogue is the amplifier, which includes water, glycerin, preservatives and other components) (Japanese Patent No. JP 61-268631 Showa Denko QC US 2008131494).

The multicomponent composition of the amplifier causes irritation and allergic reactions on the skin.

The objective of the invention is to create an amplifier of the effectiveness of biologically active substances included in the composition of cosmetic products, which can be used together with other cosmetic products without causing undesirable effects, enhancing the effectiveness of biologically active substances included in the composition of cosmetic products and ensure a prolonged release in the deep layers of the skin biologically active substances of cosmetics, which increases the positive effect due to their long-term exposure.

The technical result is achieved by the fact that in the proposed amplifier, the effectiveness of biologically active substances that are part of cosmetics, including glycerin, water and the active component according to the invention, titanium glycerate is used as the active component, in the following ratio, wt. %:

Glycerol 30-47

Titanium glycerate 16-22

Water 54-31

Titanium glycerate is known as a biologically active substance (SU No. 1351066 of 12/30/85). When administered orally, it exhibits the ability to stimulate hematopoiesis, the functional activity of leukocytes, increase the oxygenation of tissues and the general resistance of the organism. Known and the method of its production.

Titanium glycerate is a gelatinous substance of white color, odorless, soluble in glycerin, has low toxicity.

Its use on the skin of the face and body is unknown.

Together with glycerin and water in certain proportions, it has an unexpected effect - it enhances the effect of cosmetics when they are used together. At the same time there are no negative effects of the known amplifiers - toxicity, irritant and allergenic effects. This is confirmed by the results of the Test Protocol No. 17408 dated 06/14/2016. The tests and their evaluation were performed in accordance with the requirements of the Technical Regulations of the Customs Union 009/2011 “On the safety of perfumery and cosmetic products”. And confirm the compliance of the proposed amplifier effectiveness of biologically active substances included in the composition of cosmetic products, the specified requirements for cosmetic products:

- by microbiological indicators

- on physical and chemical parameters (pH, pH 7.5, within normal limits)

- according to clinical indicators (no irritating and sensitizing effects)

- on the content of toxic elements (almost no lead, arsenic, mercury)

- on toxicological indicators (no general toxic effect)

Experimentally confirmed the results of the optimal selection of components that make up the amplifier.

The quantitative ratio of these components provides the most pronounced effect.

Changing the ratio of components leads to instability properties of the amplifier.

The content of titanium glycerate is less than 16% and more than 22% negatively affects the properties of the enhancer, in particular, the properties of the film, when applied to the skin. Possible cracking of the film. The composition is poorly applied to the skin; the composition of the film is not homogeneous.

When the content of glycerol is more than 47%, the resulting composition creates a more oily and sticky film when applied to the skin, its absorption is deteriorated.

When the content of glycerin is less than 30%, a composition with a thicker consistency is formed, which is difficult to apply to the skin in the form of a thin film.

When the water content is less than 31%, the resulting composition leaves a greasy layer on the skin.

The composition, in which the amount of water is more than 54% - liquid, is poorly applied to the skin and does not give a strong film.

The inventive product under the commercial name TITANIUM BOOSTER® (Certificate for trademark No. 621363) is obtained in the form of a gel by mixing the components of the formulation - glycerin, titanium glycerate and water.

Applying the TITANIUM BOOSTER® amplifier on top of a layer of a cosmetic product promotes transdermal penetration of the biologically active components that make up this cosmetic product. The penetration of biologically active components with the help of TITANIUM BOOSTER® amplifier is carried out by means of transepidermal active diffusion, in which “TITANIUM BOOSTER® acts as an activator of percutaneous transfer of biologically active components. The components are transferred due to their immobilization on TITANIUM BOOSTER® gel carrier through reducible hydrogen molecules through reducible hydrogen molecules through TITANIUM BOOSTER® through reducible hydrogen molecules through the use of hydrogen molecules TITANIUM BOOSTER® through reducible hydrogen molecules using TITANIUM BOOSTER®. that allows you to maintain the properties of these components, deliver in unchanged form and provide a prolonged release them in the deep layers of the skin.This contributes to the effectiveness of the biologically active components that make up the cosmetic.

The confirmation of the high degree and prolonged nature of the release of the active components of the cosmetic product was obtained at the Department of Chemistry of the Federal State Budget Educational Institution of Higher Medical University Tyumen State Medical University by the method of dialysis through a semipermeable membrane (Kruvchinsky method). Comparative studies of the bioavailability of metamizole from the TITANIUM BOOSTER® enhancer (gel form) and lanolin-vaseline base were carried out in a 1: 1 ratio.

Studies conducted over 8 hours have shown that the maximum concentration of Metamizole in dialysate from the TITANIUM BOOSTER® amplifier is about 4.3 times more than the lanolin-vaseline base and is reached after 4.5 hours of research and is maintained throughout the entire study period. . Thus, the amplifier TITANIUM BOOSTER® of the effectiveness of biologically active substances that make up the cosmetic product provides a prolonged action of the active substance of the cosmetic product over time, ensuring its gradual release.

As an example, a specific implementation shows the three composition of the amplifier.

Example 1. The inventive product under the commercial name TITANIUM BOOSTER® composition, wt%

Glycerin, 30

Titanium Glycerate, 16

Water, 54

is a homogeneous gel-like mass of white with a grayish tint, with a slight specific odor, has a pH of 10% of an aqueous solution of 5.65, is thermostable.

Example 2. The claimed product under the trade name "TITANIUM BOOSTER)) composition, wt%

Glycerin, 38

Titanium Glycerate, 18

Water, 44

is a homogeneous gel-like mass of white with a grayish tint, with a slight specific odor, has a pH of 10% of an aqueous solution of 7.8, is thermostable.

Example 3. The inventive product under the commercial name "TITANIUM BOOSTER)) composition, wt. %

Glycerin, 47

Titanium Glycerate, 22

Water, 31

is a homogeneous gel-like mass of white with a grayish tint, with a slight specific odor, has a pH of 10% aqueous solution of 8.5, is thermostable.

All formulations are tested according to the requirements of the Technical Regulations of the Customs Union 009/2011 "On the safety of perfumes and cosmetics"

Test results

• According to the microbiological indicators of TP TS 009/2011, the total number of mesophilic aerobic and optional anaerobic microorganisms, CFU less than 10 (ND requirements for quality control - not more than 10 ³ )

Candida albicans - не обнаружено в 0,1 мп;

Candida albicans - not found in 0.1 MP;

Escherichia coli - не обнаружено в 0,1 мп;

Escherichia coli - not found in 0.1 MP;

Staphylococcus - не обнаружено в 0,1 мп

Staphylococcus - not found in 0.1 MP

Dseudomonas aeruginosa - не обнаружено в 0,1 мп

Dseudomonas aeruginosa - not found in 0.1 megapixel

• according to physico-chemical parameters of TRTS 009/2011 pH value - 7.5 (requirements of ND from 5.0-9.0)

• according to clinical indicators of TRTS 009/2011

раздражающее действие - 0 баллов (треб. НД - 0 баллов)

irritating effect - 0 points (required. ND - 0 points)

сенсибилизирующее действие - 0 баллов (треб. НД - 0 баллов)

sensitizing effect - 0 points (required. ND - 0 points)

• for the content of toxic elements TRTS 009/2011, compound, mg / kg

свинца - 0,19⁺ _-0,03 (требования НД - не более 5,0)

lead - 0.19 ⁺ _- 0.03 (ND requirements - not more than 5.0)

мышьяка - 0,0114⁺ _-0,002 (требования НД - не более 5,0)

Arsenic - 0.0114 ⁺ _- 0.002 (OD requirements - not more than 5.0)

ртути - 0,009⁺ _-0,001 (требования НД - не более 1,0)

mercury - 0.009 ⁺ _- 0.001 (ND requirements - not more than 1.0)

• on toxicological indicators TRTS 009/2011

общетоксическое действие - отсутствие

general toxic effect - no

The presented sample according to verified indicators meets the requirements of the technical regulations of the Customs Union 009/2011 "On the safety of perfumes and cosmetics".

Manufactured samples according to the above recipes were subjected to evaluation of consumer properties by the method of expert assessments

2 groups of 25 people were formed. Testing was performed for 21 days.

In the first group, the inventive amplifier TITANIUM BOOSTER® was used. In the second group, the inventive amplifier TITANIUM BOOSTER® was used in combination with a cosmetic product. Testing was performed on a 10-point system according to the indicators given in Table 1.

Main conclusions

- In general, group 2 rated the amplifier TITANIUM BOOSTER® more highly organoleptic than group 1.

- When using an amplifier TITANIUM BOOSTER® paired with a cosmetic, the consumer gets a better result than with independent use

After 21 days of testing, the results were evaluated on a 5-point scale.

From table 2 it can be seen that the claimed amplifier provides an increase in the effectiveness of a cosmetic product when used together at almost the maximum level (about 5 points).

Conclusions of test results

In general, the results of testing the amplifier "TITANIUM BOOSTER" in group 1 showed that the claimed product moisturizes the skin well, is easy to apply, there is no discomfort, velvety and dullness of the skin is achieved, there is a sedative effect - removing inflammation, redness, itching, swelling, irritation.

The test results of the TITANIUM BOOSTER booster in combination with a cosmetic in group 2 showed that the claimed product moisturizes the skin well, is easy to apply, there is no discomfort, irritation, velvety skin is achieved, skin elasticity, better complexion, enhances the moisturizing effect of the cosmetic

Thus, the results of testing the proposed amplifier TITANIUM BOOSTER cosmetic products for skin care confirm its moisturizing, soothing, rejuvenating effect, as well as enhancing the effect of the used cosmetic products when they are used together.

When using the claimed invention, the following technical result is achieved:

- A significant increase in the effectiveness of biologically active substances that make up the cosmetic product and, as a consequence, the achievement of a higher desired cosmetic effect.

- Achievement of a complex of positive effects on the skin: active moisturizing, providing tone and elasticity, improving color, soothing effect (removing inflammation, redness, itching, swelling, irritation).

- Safety of use and absence of allergic manifestations on the skin.

- High bioavailability of biologically active substances that make up the cosmetic and prolonged release within the deeper layers of the skin.

- Moisturizes, protects against external factors, provides microbiological purity, shows antipruritic action.

- Does not contain preservatives, is anti-allergenic.

- Does not destroy the biologically active substances in the cosmetic, but, gently enclosing them in its structure, brings them to the deeper layers of the skin, slowly releasing them, prolonging the positive effect of the cosmetic.

- Enhances the cosmetic effect when used with other cosmetics

- Non-toxic, compatible with biologically active substances that are part of the cosmetic product, does not cause an allergic reaction, is characterized by the stability of the composition - does not stratify, does not collapse.

Claims (2)

Amplifier of the effectiveness of biologically active substances included in the composition of cosmetic products, including glycerin, water and the active component, characterized in that titanium glycerate is used as an active component in the following ratio, wt.%: Glycerol 30-47 Titanium glycerate 16-22 Water 54-31