RU2543651C1 - Complex cosmetic product - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: medicine.

SUBSTANCE: rejuvenating effect is ensured by exposing high-molecular hyaluronic acid to gamma-radiation to preparing a stable low-molecular hyaluronic acid, which is used as a prescribed ingredient alongside with synthesised matrix peptide of specific amino acid sequence.

EFFECT: prescribed combination of low-molecular hyaluronic acid and matrix peptides of the developed cosmetic product enables achieving the pronounced aesthetic effect by a physiological mechanism of stimulation of developing proper hyaluronic acid in the skin.

2 dwg, 1 tbl

Description

Technical field

The invention relates to cosmetology, namely to the creation of cosmetics with anti-aging effect and lifting effect.

State of the art

Recently, the direction of developing new cosmetics based on hyaluronic acid (HA), modified in various ways to enhance its penetrating ability in the skin to achieve the most pronounced aesthetic result, has been actively developing.

The prototype of this invention is a comprehensive cosmetic product with anti-aging and lifting effect (RF patent No. 2438648, publ. 02.08.2010). This tool includes hyaluronic acid and emulsion wax, while it contains a matrix peptide isolated from proteoglycan during photochemical nanostructuring, in the following ratio of components (wt.%):

Hyaluronic acid one Matrix peptide 0.1 Emulsion Wax 10.0 Distilled water Rest

The process of photochemical nanostructuring leads to the formation of complexes of the matrix peptide and hyaluronic acid with the formation of cells up to 100 nm in size. In the description of this patent, the formation of the physiologically active complex "hyaluronic acid and matrix peptide" is indicated. Thus, hyaluronic acid becomes nanostructured with individual chain diameters of up to 5 nm.

Since this technology forms a supramolecular complex hyaluronic acid - a matrix peptide with a cellular structure of a dimension within 100 nm, the size of its individual elements (5 nm) no longer determines the ability of the entire structure to penetrate the skin layers and exert a physiological effect. In fact, photochemical nanostructuring leads to the formation of high molecular weight hyaluronic acid, which is able to exert its effect (hydration) only on the surface layer of the skin, forming a hydrophilic film on the outer surface. In addition, the complex hyaluronic acid-matrix peptide does not allow the matrix peptide to penetrate into the deeper layers of the skin, because It was originally associated with the Civil Code.

In the prototype, matrix peptides are not characterized, their structure and role in the process of so-called the effect of fixing hyaluronic acid in the skin. The so-called the process of fixing hyaluronic acid in the skin in the prototype is described at the assumption level, the structuring role of matrix peptides for penetrated into the skin of hyaluronic acid is not proved. From this it becomes apparent that the occurrence of chemical reactions between hyaluronic acid and matrix peptides in the skin is doubtful.

As shown above, used for cosmetic purposes in the prototype hyaluronic acid is a macromolecule, the size of which does not allow to overcome the epidermal barrier.

Thus, the fundamental disadvantage of this complex cosmetic product is the surface and short-term action of the photostructured complex hyaluronic acid - matrix peptide, as a result of which the aesthetic result of the use of the prototype product is insignificant.

Disclosure of invention

These disadvantages are eliminated by introducing into the formulation of the proposed cosmetic products of hyaluronic acid, subjected to gamma radiation, and matrix peptides with a specific amino acid sequence.

Thus, the present invention relates to a comprehensive cosmetic product comprising hyaluronic acid and matrix peptides, where the specified cosmetic product contains degraded hyaluronic acid resulting from gamma radiation, and a mixture of certain matrix peptides.

The cosmetic product according to the invention has a rejuvenating effect and a lifting effect and allows to achieve a pronounced aesthetic result due to the physiological mechanism of stimulation of the production of its own hyaluronic acid in the skin.

Brief Description of the Drawings

Figure 1 shows the accumulation of acid glucosaminoglycans as a result of their synthesis in the dermal layer of the skin (marked by arrows).

Figure 2 shows the result of a control study, in which when treating the skin with only low molecular weight hyaluronic acid, the effect of stimulating the synthesis and accumulation of its own hyaluronic acid was not observed.

The implementation of the invention

It is known that under the influence of gamma irradiation from high molecular weight hyaluronic acid (with an average molecular weight of 1640 kDa), a stable low molecular weight hyaluronic acid (460-29 kDa) with a modified molecular structure is obtained. Gamma irradiation leads to a significant decrease in the molecular weight of hyaluronic acid already at a dose of 2 kGy. The altered structure of the initial HA polymer is confirmed by the results of gel permeation chromatography (GPC) studies, viscosity, pH, UV spectrophotometry, and IR Fourier spectroscopy [1].

The use of gamma-processed HA allows this molecule to penetrate into the deep skin layers and enhance the effect of skin hydration with a pronounced cosmetic effect.

In order to implement the so-called The effect of fixing the permeated hyaluronic acid, we used the original matrix peptides. The proposed matrix peptides consist of a set of signal amino acid sequences (table 1), capable of triggering the synthesis and secretion of natural hyaluronic acid.

Table The composition of the matrix peptides Structure Chemical formula Mass Yes Delta mass in nanostream mode Weight in rel. Gly-trp-lle C ₁₉ H ₂₆ N ₄ O ₄ 374,19541 -2.33 10,692 Arg-Gly-Asp C ₁₇ H ₃₅ N ₇ O ₄ 432,24512 11.25 7,453 Ile-asp-ile C ₁₆ H ₂₉ N ₃ O ₆ 359,20564 12.97 8,674 Phe-arg-pro C ₂₀ H ₃₀ N ₆ O ₄ 418,23285 -0.29 9,024 Gln-his-his C ₁₇ H ₂₄ N ₈ O ₅ 420,18697 -5.74 17,732 Ala-Trp-Lys C ₂₀ H ₂₉ N ₅ O ₄ 403,22195 -5.76 8,934 Pro-his-tyr C ₂₀ H ₂₅ N ₅ O ₅ 415.18557 -11.10 14,407 Thr-trp-trp C ₂₆ H ₂₉ N ₅ O ₅ 491,21687 -12.84 9,460 Lys-phe-thr C ₁₉ H ₃₀ N ₄ O ₅ 394.22162 -7.25 8,854 Lys-arg-met C ₁₇ H ₃₅ N ₇ O ₄ S ₂ 433,24712 10.73 9,102 Phe-cys-met C ₁₇ H ₂₅ N ₃ O ₄ S ₂ 399,12865 4.19 11,108 Ile-ile C ₁₂ H ₂₄ N ₂ O ₃ 244,17869 8.67 11,038 Asp-lys-lys C ₁₆ H ₃₁ N ₅ O ₆ 389,22743 16.59 8,863 Trp-pro C ₁₆ H ₁₉ N ₃ 3O3 301,14264 -18.38 10,672 Glu-thr C ₉ H ₁₆ N ₂ O ₆ 248,10084 3.47 5,500 Desmosin C ₂₄ H ₄₀ N ₅ O ₈ 526,28769 -15.37 9,523

As can be seen from the table, the matrix peptides used are characterized in detail by composition and chemical structure. The main role of matrix peptides is to stimulate the processes of cellular reactions in the assimilation of incoming gamma-processed hyaluronic acid and the synthesis of natural hyaluronic acid.

In an experimental study, it was found that treating the skin of laboratory animals with a combination of gamma-processed HA and matrix peptides leads to the penetration of low molecular weight hyaluronic acid and matrix peptides that stimulate the synthesis of intrinsic hyaluronic acid in the skin (cf. Figure 1 and Figure 2). In a control study when treating the skin with only low molecular weight hyaluronic acid, the effect of stimulating the synthesis and accumulation of its own hyaluronic acid was not observed (Figure 2).

Thus, the proposed formulation of a complex cosmetic product based on gamma-processed hyaluronic acid and matrix peptides allows the penetrated HA molecule to be included in the metabolism due to the physiological role of matrix peptides. This achieves a real aesthetic result of its application.

Literature

1. Khabarov V.N., Boyko P.Ya., Selyanin M.A. Hyaluronic acid: production, properties, application in biology and medicine. - M .: Practical medicine, 2012.

Claims (1)

A complex cosmetic product including hyaluronic acid and matrix peptides, characterized in that the cosmetic product contains a degraded low molecular weight hyaluronic acid with a mass of 460-29 kDa, obtained under the influence of gamma radiation at a dose of 2 kGy, and a mixture of matrix peptides with the following composition:

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