RU2438648C1 - Complex cosmetic agent with rejuvenating and lifting effect - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: medicine. ^ SUBSTANCE: invention refers to cosmetology, and represents a complex cosmetic agent with rejuvenating and lifting effect, containing hyaluronic acid, emulsion wax and water, differing by the fact that the cosmetic agent contains a matrix peptide recovered from hyaluronic acid hydrogel during photochemical nanopatterning, at wave length equal to 280 nm, and hyaluronic acid is nanopatterned at an individual chain diameter 5 nm; the ingredients are taken in certain proportions, wt %. ^ EFFECT: invention provides intensified cellular turnover of epidermic tissue, provides higher skin self-repair and self-renew ability. ^ 1 tbl

Description

The invention relates to cosmetology, in particular to the creation of a comprehensive cosmetic product with a rejuvenating effect and a lifting effect.

Recently, in cosmetic cosmetology, cosmetics and compositions based on hyaluronic acid are actively used. Hyaluronic acid is a unique biopolymer with hydrophilic properties and a moisturizing effect on the skin. The cosmetic effects of hyaluronic acid are due to hydration of the surface skin layers (lifting effect).

A cosmetic agent for preventing aging of the skin is known, including hyaluronic acid, hydrogenated cottonseed oil, olive oil, hydroline, glycerin, zinc oxide, alpha-tocopherol, sodium benzoate, pancreatin, perfume and water (RF patent 2078561, publ. 10.05.1997). However, this cosmetic composition is not effective enough for rejuvenation.

The closest technical solution to the problem is anti-aging face cream, which has a complex cosmetic effect: moisturizing, nourishing, softening and regenerating the skin. The composition of this cream includes: hyaluronic acid, vegetable oils (soybean or corn oil, amaranth oil, jojoba oil, avacado oil), emulsion wax, a complex of plant extracts, liposome concentrate, isopropyl mirastat, glycerol monostearate, beech wax, lanolin, germaben II, enzyme plant complex, structural polysaccharides, wheat proteins, PES-4, D-Panthenol, allantoin, EDTA disodium salt, emulsifier, solvent, deionized water (RF patent 2277954, publ. 06/20/2006).

However, due to the complex composition of this complex cosmetic product, allergic reactions occur that reduce the effectiveness of its use. In addition, according to electron microscopic studies, the hyaluronic acid that is part of it is not structured and forms spherical macromolecular complexes that significantly increase the size of the substance (more than 100 nm) and prevent the drug from penetrating into deeper layers of the skin. This circumstance limits the duration of the cosmetic effect to 1 month.

The objective of the present invention is to provide a comprehensive cosmetic product with a prolonged action, which helps to increase the degree of penetration of hyaluronic acid into the epidermal layers of the skin and increase its hydration (moisturizing) level, and therefore, to achieve a lifting effect.

The problem is solved by creating a comprehensive cosmetic product with a rejuvenating and lifting effect, including hyaluronic acid and emulsion wax, while containing a matrix peptide isolated from proteoglycan during photochemical nanostructuring, with the following ratio of components, wt.%:

Hyaluronic acid one Matrix peptide 0.1 Emulsion Wax 10.0 Distilled water Rest

The novelty of the proposed solution is that the authors used a physiologically active complex “hyaluronic acid and matrix peptide” to enhance and increase the duration of the cosmetic effect (up to 6 months). The matrix peptide is a short-chain amino acid sequence (number 5) that forms fragile complexes with hyaluronic acid filaments and forms crosslinks at the intersection sites and forms cells up to 100 nm in size. Thus, hyaluronic acid becomes nanostructured, with a diameter of individual chains up to 5 nm. This allows you to increase the degree of penetration of hyaluronic acid into the epidermal layers of the skin and increase its level of hydration (moisturizing). Outwardly, this is manifested by a lifting effect.

The matrix peptide is able to optimize the processes of physiological renewal of the skin layers (anti-aging effect), since they affect cell division.

It is known that the skin is renewed as a result of the division of basal cells located in the deep layers of the skin, which replace obsolete and dead cells of the surface layers of the skin (physiological regeneration). With age, the activity of basal cells decreases and this is manifested by the formation of wrinkles, a decrease in elasticity. When studying the effect of the matrix peptide on the activity of skin cells, it turned out that it can not only enhance cell division, but return their metabolic activity to a younger age mode.

It is especially necessary to note that the matrix peptide, which is part of the claimed cosmetic product, was isolated during the photochemical nanostructuring of proteoglycan (the initial hydrogel of hyaluronic acid). The photophysical properties of HUA acid are known, but its photochemical properties are poorly understood. Unlike most other polysaccharides, HUA contains amideketo groups —NH— (C = O) —CH ₃ in the side chains. These groups are thermally stable, but can be photochemically active. In the ultraviolet spectra, a weak absorption band is observed in the region of 250-300 nm. Carbonyl groups are absorbed in the UV region of the spectrum and, passing into excited states, undergo chemical transformations with a fairly high efficiency. Four types of primary reactions are known in aliphatic ketones containing carbonyl groups: α-cleavage, splitting of the hydrogen atom, formation of charge-transfer complexes, and elimination of α-substituents. Photochemical α-cleavage (the Norrish reaction I) produces active free radicals capable of forming new chemical bonds in places of the spatial convergence of the chains of hyaluronic acid (GCA). It is possible that radical crosslinking initiates atomic or singlet oxygen, which is formed during UV irradiation in air. Radicals that are not involved in the formation of crosslinks quickly disappear as a result of reverse recombination and do not affect the chemical, biological, and other properties of the material.

Numerous studies of the processes of photochemical crosslinking of proteoglycan polymer chains have made it possible to select the optimal compositions of the initial hyaluronic acid hydrogel and determine the conditions for the isolation of the matrix peptide.

The most efficient selection of the matrix peptide occurs when the proteoglycan is irradiated with light with a wavelength corresponding to the maximum absorption band of the initial mixture. For the claimed cosmetics, the maximum absorption band in the UV region is at a wavelength of 280 nm.

Studies conducted on the skin of people of different ages have shown that a complex cosmetic product with a rejuvenating and lifting effect, including hyaluronic acid, emulsion wax and matrix peptide isolated from proteoglycan during photochemical nanostructuring, in the following ratio of components, wt.% :

Hyaluronic acid one Matrix peptide 0.1 Emulsion Wax 10.0 Distilled water Rest

supports cellular activity (integral coefficient) at a level (0.4-0.45) close to the activity of cells of younger skin (0.51-0.53), which is reflected in the table.

The value of the integral coefficient over time. gaps 7 days 14 days 28 days Young skin (20-25 years) 0.51 0.53 0.51 Skin age over 45 0.25 0.3 0.27 Skin over the age of 45 years + the claimed cosmetic product 0.4 0.45 0.43

Particular attention should be paid to the use of a combination of hyaluronic acid and a matrix peptide as part of a cosmetic product. To date, there have been no known technical solutions aimed at the transdermal use of the matrix peptide in combination with the structured form of hyaluronic acid.

The combination of hyaluronic acid and a matrix peptide provides a double effect:

1. Hyaluronic acid has a lifting effect in the surface layers of the skin;

2. Due to its small size (up to 1 nm), the matrix peptide penetrates to the basal layers of the skin and stimulate the physiological renewal of the skin (anti-aging effect).

This combination of lifting effect and anti-aging effect leads to a more pronounced and long-lasting (up to 6 months) cosmetic effect.

The composition of the proposed complex cosmetics as a carrier of active components includes emulsion wax corresponding to GOST.

In the formulation of a complex cosmetic product, there is no fragrance, stabilizing components and preservatives, which helps to minimize the likelihood of allergic reactions. The safety of the product during storage is ensured by filling the cosmetic mixture under sterile conditions and flaconing in vacuum dispensers.

The resulting complex cosmetic product has a pleasant appearance, odorless, is easily absorbed, has a positive effect on the skin condition (reduces the severity of wrinkles, tones and prevents peeling of the skin, refreshes).

A comprehensive cosmetic product is applied to cleansed skin once a day at night.

When testing the drug in a group of people aged 30 to 60 years, a pronounced cosmetic effect was established for a month, which lasted for 6 months when the drug was canceled.

Thus, in comparison with the prototype, the developed complex cosmetic product with a rejuvenating and lifting effect is a complex preparation that helps to increase the degree of penetration of hyaluronic acid into the epidermal layers of the skin and increase its hydration (moisturizing) level, and therefore, the lifting effect.

Claims (1)

A complex cosmetic product with a rejuvenating and lifting effect, including hyaluronic acid, emulsion wax and water, characterized in that the cosmetic product contains a matrix peptide isolated from the hydrogel of hyaluronic acid in the process of photochemical nanostructuring at a wavelength of 280 nm, and hyaluronic acid is nanostructured with a diameter of individual chains up to 5 nm in the following ratio of components, wt.%:
Nanostructured Hyaluronic Acid with a diameter of individual chains up to 5 nm one Matrix peptide isolated from hydrogel hyaluronic acid in the process photochemical nanostructuring at a wavelength of 280 nm 0.1 Emulsion Wax 10.0 Distilled water rest