RU2008892C1 - Agent for dyeing hairs - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: cosmetics. SUBSTANCE: agent contains surface active substance amine dyes, glycerin, sodium chloride, urine, biological active complex CO₂ extract of carrot seeds and barley sprouts or of carrot seeds and rice wastes or of eucalyptus and carrot seeds. Agent also contains ginseng extract or roseola extract or complex CO₂-extract of cacao husk and laurel or mixture of complex CO₂-extract of carrot seeds and rice wastes in equal quantities and CO₂-extract of harsley seeds. Proposed agent is stable by storage. EFFECT: provided stable dyeing and decorative effect, vitaminized hairs and head skin.

Description

Known recipes for hair dyes containing plant extracts. For example, the Neoton hair coloring agent, tone 1 according to TU 6-40-0204260-1602-88, contains triethanolamine lauryl sulfate salt, monoethanolamides of synthetic fatty acids of fraction C ₁₀ -C ₁₆ , syntanol as surfactants dyes n-phenylenediamine base and 2-nitro-1,4-phenylenediamine, sodium chloride, castor oil, CO ₂ hop extract, CO ₂ carrot seed extract, perfume, propellant and water.

It is also known a means for dyeing hair in a golden mahogany color, which contains,%: triethanolamine salt of lauryl sulfate 3-10, monoethanolamides of synthetic fatty acids of fraction C ₁₀ -C ₁₆ 5-10; syntanol 3-8; castor oil 3-8; dyes: 2-nitro-1,4-phenylenediamine 0.05-1.5 and n-phenylenediamine base 0.005-0.5; CO ₂ hop extract 0.05-0.8; vitamin carotene concentrate (in terms of 100% β-carotene) 0.001-1.5 or microbiological carotene in oil 0.1-1.5; propellant 6-15 or preservative 0.05-0.5; perfume 0.1-0.9 and water - up to 100.

Closest to the proposed is a hair dye, in which the components are taken in the following proportions, wt. %:
Salt triethanolamines- new lauryl sulfate 10
Monoethanolamides syn-
fatty acids fraction C ₁₀ -C ₁₆ 10 Syntanol 3-8
n-phenylenediamine base 0.01-0.05
2-nitro-1,4-phenylenediamine 0.05-1.5 Sodium chloride 0.3-0.8 Castor oil 3-8 CO ₂ chamomile extract 0.025-0.8
CO ₂ -extract of carrot seeds 0.05-0.8 Fragrance 0.5-0.9 Propellant 6-15 Water Up to 100.0
The purpose of this product is to enhance the tone of the dye and lengthen its action, as well as preventing damage and coloring of the skin (however) when obtaining a mahogany color.

 The present invention solves the problem of obtaining a highly effective means for dyeing hair in a "copper" color when using amine dyes in combination with new plant extracts, which simultaneously has hydrant properties.

 The developed product has a nourishing effect, bactericidal activity, maintains elasticity, hair strength, and prevents the formation of dandruff.

The goal is achieved in that the proposed tool containing a surfactant, amine dyes - 2-nitro-1,4-phenylenediamine and n-phenylenediamine base, sodium chloride, carrot seed extractives, fragrance, propellant and water, glycerol, a complex carbon dioxide extract from carrot seeds and barley sprouts or carrot seeds and rice waste or from eucalyptus and carrot seeds, urea, ginseng biomass infusion or Rhodiola rosea biomass infusion or complex CO ₂ extract from cocoa shell and laurel or a mixture of complex CO ₂ ex a path from carrot seeds and rice waste and a CO ₂ -extract of parsley seeds and a preservative, moreover, a propellant or preservative in the following ratio of components, wt. %:
Frother HP-3
(in terms of 100% surfactant) 2.0-10.0
Sintanol ALM% 10 or Sintanol DS-10 3.0-8.0
Monoethanolamides FFA fraction C ₁₀ -C ₁₆ 3.0-10.0
Glycerin distilliro
bathroom, premium, 1st or most dynamic 3.0-8.0
2-nitro-1,4-phenylene diamine 0.05-1.5
n-phenylenediamine base 0.005-0.05 Sodium chloride 0.3-0.8
CO ₂ extract complex -
from carrot seeds and barley sprouts or CO ₂ -
complex extract of
carrot and rice seeds
waste or CO ₂ extract
complex of eucalyptus and carrot seeds 0.05-0.5 Urea 2.0-10.0
Biomass infusion
ginseng (20%
water-alcohol solution)
or infusion of biomass
Rhodiola rosea (20%
water-alcohol solution)
or complex СО ₂ -ex-
cocoa shell tract
and laurel or a mixture of CO ₂ -
complex extract
from carrot and rice seeds
soy waste and CO ₂ -ex-
path of parsley seeds in a ratio of 1: 1 0.1-0.6 Fragrance 0.1-0.9 Propellant or 6.0-15.0 Preservative 0.05-0.5 Water Up to 100.0
This goal is achieved by the fact that a reasonable combination of CO ₂ extracts, biologically active substances from ginseng or Rhodiola rosea and urea is introduced into the composition of the drug with a simultaneous reduction in the doses of amino dyes - 2-nitro-1,4-phenylenediamine and n-phenylenediamine base.

The combination in the surfactant complex is a mixture of the NR-3 foaming agent, FFA monoethanolamides and syntanol, glycerin, oxidizing dyes, sodium chloride, a CO ₂ extract complex from carrot seeds and barley sprouts (N 13) or from carrot seeds and rice waste (N 15) or from carrot and eucalyptus seeds (N 19), urea, infusion from ginseng biomass, or infusion from Rhodiola rosea biomass or complex CO ₂ extract from laurel and cocoa shell (N 34b) or a mixture in equal proportions of a complex CO ₂ extract from carrot seeds and rice waste and CO ₂ seed extract parsley provides intense hair coloring, depth and brightness, bactericidal activity, increases the vitamins of the skin and hair roots, which largely prevents dryness, brittle hair, the formation of dandruff, and provides color stabilization.

 The proposed tool can be produced in the form of an aerosol and in traditional packaging. Moreover, when using this tool, the possibility of staining the skin of the head, neck, face and hands is excluded.

Complex CO ₂ extract from carrot seeds and barley sprouts (N 13) corresponds to TU 10.048549-041-91 and is a mixture of vitamin substances of carrot seeds and barley sprouts, balanced at the stage of preparation for extraction. Extractives of carrot seeds are a vitamin complex of plasticizing, regenerating and nourishing effects. Biologically active acids, tocopherols, sterols, carotenoids, phospholipids are transferred to the complex CO ₂ -extract with extractive substances of carrot seeds. Polyunsaturated fatty acids - linoleic and linolenic - are a factor of vitamin F. Fatty oil, combining the properties of carrot seed oil and barley sprouts, is a good plasticizer and synergist for vitamin E (tocopherols). With the extractive substances of barley sprouts, lipids represented by triglycerides, phospholipids, waxes, sterols, and their constituent acids are linoleic, oleic, palmitic, stearic, myristic, and linolenic in the complex extract. Barley sprout lipids and tocopherols in combination with carrot seed extractives provide hydrant and nourishing effects.

The complex СО ₂ extract from carrot seeds and rice waste (N 15) corresponds to TU 10.048549-041-91 and is a fortified complex of carrot seeds and rice waste (flour). Wax, tocopherols, carotenoids, lipid complex were found in the complex extract N 15. In the composition of high molecular weight unsaturated fatty acids, linoleic, linolenic, oleic, myristic, palmitic, stearic are identified. Waxes of rice wastes and complex СО ₂ -extract N 15 have high biological activity and increase the stability of labile biologically active components. The stabilization of their content for a long time is provided by the presence of tocopherols, which have an antioxidant effect.

The complex CO ₂ extract from eucalyptus and carrot seeds (N 19) corresponds to TU 10.048549-021-91 and is a fortified complex of carrot and eucalyptus seeds with pronounced bactericidal, fungicidal properties. Essential oil, waxes, tocopherols, carotenoids, lipid complex were found in the complex extract N 19. In the composition of the essential oil, the main component is cineol. The lipid complex consists of free fatty acids, their esters and triglycerides, and oleic, linolenic, linoleic are identified in the composition of high molecular weight unsaturated fatty acids.

 Ginseng biomass infusion (20% water-alcohol solution) complies with TU 59-01-003-17-79 and is a complex of biologically active substances obtained from valuable medicinal raw materials - ginseng biomass. The infusion contains essential oil, pectins, glycosides, saponins, a small amount of fat-like components of fatty oil (phytosterols), trace elements. Ginseng biomass infusion has a physiological effect due to the activation of oxidative processes, cell renewal and metabolic regulation.

 The infusion from the biomass of Rhodiola rosea (20% aqueous-alcoholic solution) corresponds to TU 64-13-06-87 and is a complex of biologically active substances obtained from valuable medicinal raw materials - the biomass of Rhodiola rosea. The infusion contains essential oil, phytosterols (in small quantities), flavonoids, glycosides, trace elements. These biologically active substances activate oxidative processes due to the oxidation of carbon and lipids, which regulates blood sugar and increase the functional activity of endocrine glands.

The complex CO ₂ extract from laurel and cocoa shell (N 34 b) corresponds to TU 10.048549-028-91 and is a fortified complex of cocoa shell and laurel with bactericidal, fungicidal properties. The complex extract N 34b contains essential oil (the most valuable component is cineol), tocopherols, sterols, carotenoids, waxes, phospholipids and fatty acids in a free and bound state. In the composition of high molecular weight unsaturated fatty acids, linoleic, linolenic, with F-vitamin activity are identified.

Parsley CO ₂ extract corresponds to TU 10.048549-026-91 and has physiological activity. The extract contains essential oil, fatty oil, and a complex of vitamins. Apiol, pinenes, phenols, myristicin are identified in essential oil. Fatty oil consists of petrozelinic, oleic, linoleic, linolenic and palmitic acids. In addition, waxes, sterols, and tocopherols were found in the parsley CO ₂ extract. All this gives a CO ₂ -extract of parsley a vasodilating, antispasmodic effect.

Under the influence of biologically active substances of extracts and infusions, the proposed tool promotes the influx of amino acids, phosphates. The content of trace amounts of vitamin A and carotene in the extracts has a huge physiological role. They take part in redox processes, are carriers of hydrogen and oxygen in tissues, affect enzymatic processes, sulfur metabolism and epithelial keratization, metabolism of proteins, amino acids, fats, carbohydrates and minerals. In the presence of CO ₂ extracts rich in tocopherols, the content of vitamin complexes (carotenoids and vitamin F factor), phytosterols is stabilized for a long time. In addition, an additional amount of trace elements introduced with infusions of ginseng and Rhodiola rosea can have a significant effect on the physiological transformations of substances. The presence of trace elements in combination with vitamin complexes, tocopherol extracts, creates the conditions for the mutual penetration of phytohormones for their action on the scalp and hair.

Foaming agent НР-3, syntanol, CSN paste or monoethanolamides of synthetic fatty acids of fraction C ₁₀ -C ₁₆ are the detergent base of the product, surfactants provide foaming and washing effects.

 The introduction of glycerin is carried out in order to soften the effect and ensure the fat balance of the skin.

 Sodium chloride is used as a compound that maintains acid-base balance, a preservative.

 Amino dyes related to oxidative dyes, form colored salts, characterized by light resistance, purity and brightness of tone.

 Urea is introduced into the product in order to increase the brightness of the tone, creating conditions for the most complete oxidation of the dyes.

 According to modern concepts, keratin macromolecule has a polypeptide nature, consists of various amino acid residues. In keratin, hair contains cysteine, which contains sulfur in the form of a group - SH, capable of forming disulfide bridges - S-S, which connect the molecules to each other. Melanin is a colored pigment that determines the color of hair contained in the fibrous layer. In the surface layer it is not. When dyeing hair, it is necessary to create conditions for the penetration of oxidative dyes into the fibrous layer in order to form brightly colored salts.

 Under the influence of water and alkaline substances that are contained in the hair dye, keratin swells and the surface plates rise perpendicular to the hair surface so that the fibrous layer is exposed. Next, the absorption of 2-nitro-1,4-phenylenediamine and n-phenylenediamine base and the formation of color by the reaction of interaction of these substances with each other.

At the same time, biologically active substances contained in carbon dioxide extracts and infusions are absorbed. In the interaction of n-phenylenediamine base and 2-nitro-1,4-phenylenediamine, a preliminary color occurs, which, upon oxidation, acquires the final tone. The oxidation of dyes occurs under the action of unsaturated fatty acids (linoleic, linolenic), causing the F-vitamin activity of carbon dioxide extracts included in the proposed tool. When vitamin F is absorbed (within 15-20 minutes), peroxides are formed in place of double acid bonds and the dissociation of these bonds with the release of oxygen. Since amino dyes work best in an alkaline solution, surfactants that create a slightly alkaline environment, and urea, which is also used to increase keratin swelling and its better susceptibility (moisture), are introduced into the developed product. To reduce the harmful effects of alkaline environment on the hair and the temporary restoration of damaged hair in the proposed tool introduced CO ₂ -extracts. Since only relatively low molecular weight substances, such as glycerin, can penetrate into the hair, infusions and CO ₂ extracts are introduced with glycerol. Glycerin, due to its hygroscopicity, retains moisture in the hair, which causes the hair to swell and soften it, thereby creating the conditions for the action of biologically active substances of extracts and infusions. Under the action of free acids and acidic components of the esters of carbon dioxide extracts with regular use of the developed dye, the synthesis of amino acids is stimulated, with which urea can interact. It forms a thin film on the surface of the hair, strengthening it and at the same time protecting it from moisture from the environment. This leads to strengthening the hair and increasing its elasticity, as well as to prolonging the retention time of the tone obtained as a result of processing the hair with a developed tool.

The choice of a combination of the component composition of the dye, the substantiation of the boundary values of the dosages of the components, CO ₂ extracts and biologically active complexes was carried out using mathematical planning for orthogonal Latin rectangles and using mathematical planning on a simplex.

, где Р_э - дозировка СО₂-экстракта, настоя, % ;
Р_БАВ - дозировка отдельных БАВ;
С_БАВ - концентрация БАВ в экстракте, настое, % .An approximate calculation of the dosages of extracts and infusions was carried out according to the concentration of the main biologically active components - carotenoids, tocopherol, vitamin F factor according to the formula
P _e =

where R _e - dosage of CO ₂ extract, infusion,%;
R _{biologically active substances} - dosage of individual biologically active substances;
With _{biologically active substances} - the concentration of biologically active substances in the extract, infusion,%.

As a result, we obtained approximate dosage limits for extracts and infusions for individual biologically active components:
P _CO2 extract set

N 13 (carrot seeds, barley sprouts) 0.01-1.0
P _CO2 extract set

N 15 (carrot seeds, rice waste) 0.01-1.0
P _CO2 extract set

N 19 (carrot seeds, eucalyptus) 0.01-1.0 P ginseng infusion 0.01-0.8
R infusion of Rhodiola rosea 0.01-0.8
P _CO2 extract set N 34b (cocoa shell, laurel) 0.01-0.8
P mixture of CO ₂ extract
set N 15 and СО ₂ -extract of parsley 0.01-0.8
The coloring effect of the complex of amine dyes, carbon dioxide extracts and infusions used in the present invention, the enhancement of the copper tone, the effect of reducing the dosages of amine dyes, and the dye strength on the hair were evaluated by a series of experiments using mathematical planning.

 Efficiency indicators were the results of a visual assessment of hair coloring in comparison with the prototype, color indicators, fixing tone enhancement and the duration of the dye with regular shampooing. At the same time, they assessed the content of carotenoids and tocopherols (an indicator of hydration).

 The composition of the mixture of amine dyes and carbon dioxide extracts and infusions was varied.

 The remaining components were fixed at one (average) level of dosage values,%: synthetic monoethanolamides of 5.0 fatty acids; foaming agent HP-3 5.0; syntanol 5.0; glycerol 5.0; sodium chloride 0.66; urea 5.0; propellant 12.0 or preservative 0.225; perfume 0.28. Dosages of the main components - in the composition of the dye, varied taking into account the interchangeability of carbon dioxide extracts and infusions (see table. 1).

 The table shows the levels of the studied factors according to plan 1.

In the table. Figure 1 shows the general names of factors C and D. In practical studies, experiments were carried out taking into account the interchangeability of complex CO ₂ extracts and infusions.

 Dye samples were prepared according to the planning matrices. The obtained color data were processed by calculating the effects of the levels of all the studied factors in terms of color.

The analysis of the data showed that the required tonality of the color in "copper" color is achieved with certain ratios of the components of the formulation of the developed hair dye, namely: dyes 2-nitro-1,4-phenylenediamine 0.05-1.5; n is phenylenediamine base 0.005-0.05; complex CO ₂ extract from carrot seeds and barley sprouts or from carrot seeds and rice waste or from eucalyptus and carrot seeds 0.05-0.5; ginseng biomass infusion or Rhodiola rosea biomass infusion or complex CO ₂ extract from cocoa shell and laurel or a mixture of complex CO ₂ extract from carrot seeds and rice waste and CO ₂ extract from parsley seeds 0.1-0.6
In addition, the boundary values of the dosages of extracts were specified for the region of stabilized content of carotenoids and tocopherols of extracts.

 By analyzing the different dosages of the extracts and dyes used as a result of creating a formulation for a new hair dye in a fashionable tone, the ability of the extracts to influence the reduction of dye dosages was revealed. Thus, the established concentrations of extracts, when combined with dyes n-phenylenediamine, a base of 0.005-0.05 and 2-nitro-1,4-phenylenediamine 0.05-1.5, create a "copper" tone.

 With the exclusion of extracts, an identical tone is achieved by increasing the dosage of dyes by 20-30%. This property of the extracts is ensured not only by the content of coloring substances in them, but also by the ability of the extracts to maximize the use of the properties of dyes and cause their maximum coloring effect with the help of vitamin F, carotenoids and other substances contained in them.

A general assessment of the quality of the hair dye by the color indices showed an increase in the color intensity when introducing a complex CO ₂ extract from carrot seeds and barley sprouts or from carrot seeds and rice waste or from eucalyptus and carrot seeds by an average of 15% compared with the prototype, at the same time, an increase in the strength of hair coloring with regular washing by 20% was found. The combination of all tested components of the hair dye at the selected intervals when using the propellant as packaging material retains the tonality of the product for 24 months, when using the method of packaging in a container made of polyethylene - 18 months. Carotenoid stabilization increased by 1-3%.

Thus, the introduction of a complex CO ₂ extract from carrot seeds and barley sprouts or carrot seeds and rice waste or eucalyptus and carrot seeds in combination with ginseng biomass infusion or Rhodiola rosea infusion or with a complex CO ₂ extract from cocoa shell and laurel or integrated with a mixture of CO ₂ extract of carrots and rice seeds and waste CO ₂ extract of parsley seed together with the ingredients of the formulation gives tone color enhancement, property provides gidratantnoe means for dyeing the hair, prolongs and stabilizes rasyaschee dye effect, provides amplification of fortification, nourishing effect and bakteriodnost.

 The combination of surfactants, carbon dioxide extracts, sodium chloride in the complex preserves the skin's natural state.

 The introduction of a complex of extracts, urea and glycerol ensures the hydration of the product, hair elasticity and strength, prevents dry hair and skin, the formation of dandruff. The lipid complex of carbon dioxide extracts and the presence of a large number of tocopherols in combination with glycerin stabilize the content of carotenoids, which ensures the extension of the coloring effect of the new hair product and its stability.

The method of preparation of the dye consists in the addition of the foaming agent НР-3, monoethanolamides of synthetic fatty acids or DNS paste, syntanol, sodium chloride, dyes - 2-nitro-1,4-phenylenediamine, n-phenylenediamine in hot water at 80-90 ^о С base and glycerol, thoroughly stirring the resulting mixture and subsequent cooling to a temperature of 45-50 ^{° C,} introducing the carbon dioxide complex of an extract from seeds of carrot and barley germs or carrot seeds and rice or waste of eucalyptus and carrot seeds, ureas, infusion of ginseng biomass or infusion of Rhodiola rosea biomass or complex CO ₂ extract from cocoa shell and laurel or a mixture of complex CO ₂ extract from carrot seeds and rice waste and CO ₂ extract from parsley seeds, perfume, stirring, cooling the mass to 25 -18 ^{° C,} metering into aerosol containers with a propellant, or introduction into polyethylene containers with an added preservative, which is used as ionol or nipagin or nipazol.

 The following is an example of preparing a formula for hair dye per 100 kg.

 72 variants of the dye were prepared - with the minimum, average and maximum dosages of all components, taking into account all the interchanges, with 36 variants in aerosol packaging and polyethylene containers.

PRI me R. The 80.395 kg of hot water at 80-90 ^{° C} were added sequentially 2.0 kg of frother HP-3 synthanol 3.0 kg, 3.0 kg of BPS-paste or monoethanolamides FFA fraction C ₁₀ -C _16, 3.0 kg of glycerol , 0.05 kg of 2-nitro-1,4-phenylenediamine, 0.005 kg of n-phenylenediamine base, 0.3 kg of sodium chloride, the mixture was thoroughly stirred and cooled to 50-45 ^{° C} and then charged with 0.05 kg CO ₂ complex -extract from carrot seeds and barley sprouts (N 13), 2.0 kg of urea, 0.1 kg of ginseng extract from biomass (20% aqueous-alcoholic solution), 0.1 kg of fragrance, the mixture is again mixed and cooled to 25-18 ^about S. W Then the finished mass is metered into aerosol cans and sealed. Volume 160 cm ³ .

 The study of the quality indicators of the new tool was carried out in comparison with the prototype (hair dye according to A. p. N 1553128) when comparing the options with boundary and average values of the concentration of the components (table. 2, 3).

As a result of the analysis, it was found that the introduction of CO ₂ extracts or infusions in combination with glycerin and urea enhances the color of the color in comparison with the prototype by 1.5-3.0%. All formulation variants with boundary and average concentrations of the components showed stability when stored in aerosol containers for 24 months, in polyethylene containers - 18 months. All combinations of components found an increase in strength - the duration of dye retention on the hair and the preservation of the shade for 4.0-5.2 months, which is on average 11-18% longer than when using the prototype. The saturation of the drug with carotenoids and the stability of their condition in the composition of all options is higher on average by 10-15% than in the prototype.

 The high antioxidant and antimicrobial (bactericidal) properties of the extracts and their good preservation in the environment of the other ingredients of the formulation prevents the emulsion from stratifying and deteriorating.

 Evaluation of the consumer properties of the product showed an improvement in the appearance and condition of the hair - it gives them elasticity, a “lively" shine, does not cause brittle hair, dry skin and the formation of dandruff. (56) Copyright certificate of the USSR N 155128, cl. A 61 K 7/08, 1990.

Claims (1)

HAIR COLORING SUBSTANCE, containing surfactant, amino dyes, sodium chloride, extractives of carrot seeds, perfume, propellant and water, characterized in that it additionally contains glycerin, urea, preservative, biologically active plant substances, infusion of ginseng or Rhodiola rosea biomass or a complex CO ₂ extract from cocoa shell and laurel, or a mixture in equal proportions of a CO ₂ extract of parsley and a complex CO ₂ extract from rice waste and carrot seeds, as well as extractive substances of barley sprouts, eucalyptus rice waste as part of a complex CO ₂ extract from carrot seeds and barley sprouts, or from carrot seeds and rice waste, or from eucalyptus and carrot seeds, with a propellant or preservative used as a preservative, the components being in the following ratio, wt. %:
HP-3 foaming agent (in terms of 100% surfactant) 2.0 - 10.0
Syntanol 3.0 - 8.0
CSN paste or monoethanolamides of FFA fraction
C ₁₀ - C ₁₆ 3.0 - 10.0
Glycerin 3.0 - 8.0
2-Nitro-1,4-phenylenediamine 0.05 - 1.5
p-phenylenediamine base 0.005 - 0.05
Sodium chloride 0.3 - 0.8
Complex CO ₂ extract from carrot seeds and barley sprouts, or CO ₂ complex extract from carrot seeds and rice waste, or complex CO ₂ extract from eucalyptus and carrot seeds 0.05 - 0.5
Urea 2.0 - 10.0
Infusion of ginseng biomass (20% aqueous-alcoholic solution), or infusion of biomass of Rhodiola rosea (20% aqueous-alcoholic solution), or a complex CO ₂ extract from cocoa shell and laurel, or a mixture of CO ₂ - complex extract from carrot seeds and rice waste and a CO ₂ extract from parsley seeds (1: 1 ratio) 0.1 - 0.6
Fragrance 0.1 - 0.9
Propellant 6.0 - 15.0
or
Preservative 0.05 - 0.5
Water Else

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