RU1784228C - Cream for periocular skin - Google Patents

Description

1

(21) 4864160/14 (22) 09/03/90 (46) 12/30/92. Bull. Number 48

(71) Scientific Production Association Aerosol and Agrofirm Stalgene of the Jelgava District of the Latvian SSR

(72) T. A. Nazarova. M.V. Ogilets, M.I. Shukhman, E.V. Voitenko, T.V. Matska and A.I. Borisenkova

(S $) USSR copyright certificate

No. 1327887, class A 61K 7/00, 1987.

(54) SKIN CREAM AROUND EYES

(57) Eye cream. Invention

relates to the field of cosmetics. With the aim of

To increase the water-holding properties of the skin, as well as to reduce the dryness, passivity and puffiness of the eyelids, the cream contains a complex of plant extracts and oils, consisting of oil extracts of corn stigmas and eleutherococcus, alcohol-glycerin extract of lily of the valley, bioactive cocoa butter. chicken butter. The cream manufacturing process consists of melting the fat base, emulsifying the composition, and adding extracts. The composition is then cooled and the finished cream is allowed to mature. 4 tab.

The invention relates to the field of cosmetics, namely to skin care products around the eyes.

A well-known facial skin cream containing lanolin, spermaceti, beeswax, hydrogenated sperm whale alcohols, PEG-400 oleate, PEG-400 stearate, bone oil, lanolin hydroxyethylated, tissue culture extract ginseng, paraoxybenzoic acid methyl ester, paraoxybenzoic acid propyl ester, paraoxybenzoic acid perfume, water.

A well-known face cream containing lanolin, deodorized mink oil, olive oil, beeswax, EMOS K-1, caustic soda, aerosil, a series of oily extract, paraoxybenzoic acid methyl ester, paraoxybenzoic acid propyl ester, paraform, perfume, water.

A well-known face cream containing mink fat, lanolin, glycerin, DEG stearate, cosmetic stearin, triethanolamine, water-alcohol-glycerin propolis extract, oil extract of chamomile, oil extract of malt sprouts, paraoxybenzoic acid methyl ester, paraoxybenzoic acid paraoxybenzoic acid perfume, water.

The prototype is a face cream containing, wt.%:

Olive oil7.0-11.0

Perfume oil 3.0-5.0

DEG stearate 8.0-12.0

Glycerol Monostearate 1.0-4.0

Beeswax 1.0-4.0

Ceresin 0.5-2.0

High molecular weight

synthetic alcohols

fatty acids

Ci7-Cie fractions, 0.5-1.5

Lanolin hydroxyethyl-

1.0-3.0

Borax .0.5-2.0

Oil extract

p bins 3.0-7.0

yoo

Bioactive Parsley Extract 8.0-12.0

Fermented condensed whey 4.0-8.0

Methyl ether

paraoxybenzoic acid 0.1-0.5 Propyl ester of paraoxybenzoic acid 0.05-0.2 Paraformaldehyde 0.02-0.05 Fragrance 0.5-1.5 Water Up to 100

The disadvantage of this cream is that it does not provide an optimal effect on metabolic processes in the skin: protein, fat metabolism, cholesterol level, does not have a sufficient effect on the hydratant properties of the skin, hemodynamic parameters of the skin, blood flow, electroresistance of the skin, does not remove the phenomenon of pastility and puffiness of the eyelids.

The aim of the invention is to provide a stimulating effect on protein and fat metabolism in the skin, lowering cholesterol level in the skin (anticholesterolemic, anti-sclerotic effect), increasing the water-retaining effect, reducing the phenomenon of edema and pastes skin of the eyelids by improving hemodynamic parameters of the skin.

To achieve this goal, a complex of biologically active fats: chicken oil and cocoa butter, and biologically active components of a synergistic effect: oil extracts of corn stigmas and eleutherococcus, an extract of alcohol-glycerin lily of the valley, are introduced into the cream formulation under certain technological conditions.

The optimal stimulating effect on protein, fat and water metabolism in the skin, as well as a softening nutritional effect, is ensured by the synergistic effect of bioactive oils of chicken and cocoa shell and the synergistic bioactive components of oil extracts of corn stigmas and eleutherococcus, an extract of alcohol-glycerin lily of the valley.

A complex of bioactive chicken oil and cocoa butter provides a positive dermatological effect due to the high content in chicken fat in highly unsaturated triglycerides, including up to 70% of linoleic, linolenic and arachidonic fatty acids, vitamins A, D, E. Cocoa shell bioactive oil also contains triglycerides of linoleic, linolenic, arachidonic acids, patanic acid, vitamins A, D, E glycosides.

The components of the oil extract of corn stigmas: high fatty oil

the content of unsaturated fatty acids: linoleic and linolenic and their triglycerides, ft-sitosterol, vitamins D. K, E.

The components of the oil extract are eleutherococcus, a fatty oil containing unsaturated fatty acids and their triglycerides, vitamins A, D, E, eleutheroside A, β-sitosterol, glycoside-isofraxin.

The components of the alcohol-glycerin extract of lily of the valley: glycosides, steroid saponins - convallorin, organic acids - block, citric.

Effect of eye cream on protein

the exchange in the skin of experimental animals is given in table. 1.

The table below shows an increase in the content of total soluble proteins compared to the prototype.

The effect of the cream around the eyes on the cholesterol content in the skin of experimental animals is shown in Table. 2.

The table below shows a decrease in cholesterol when applying cream

around the eyes (anticholesterolemic effect).

The optimal effect of increasing the hydrated properties of the skin around the eyes, increasing blood supply, reducing

pastes and swelling of the eyelids is provided by the synergistic effect of bioactive oils, chicken and cocoa shells, and the synergistic effect of the bioactive components of oil extracts of corn stigmas and eleutherococcus, alcohol-glycerin extract of lily of the valley.

Bioactive cocoa butter components: amino acids - aspartic acid, threonine, serine, proline, glycine,

alanine, tyrosine, phenylalanine, isoleucine, leucine, valine, lysine, argenin, caffeine, theobromine, vitamins Bi, 82, Be,

B12, H, PP.

The components of the extract of oil corn stigmas: tannins, essential oil, chlorophyll, glucosides, saponins, sugar substances, alkaloids.

Oil eleutherococcus extract components: tannins, glucose, sucrose, polysaccharides, wax, resins, essential oils, pectin substances, starch.

The components of the extract of alcohol-glycerin lily of the valley, tannins, glycosides - convallotocoin, convallotaxol, glucoconvaloside, wallorotone, essential oil, starch, convalloside - bioeid, aglycon - are represented by strophanthus, and glycon - rhamnose and glucose.

The effect of the cream around the eyes on the hydrant properties of the skin is given in Table. 3.

Thus, the cream for the skin around the eyes increases the moisture capacity of the skin by 24%. This suggests the use of cream for dry eyelid skin.

As a result of the synergistic action of the complex of bioactive oils of chicken and cocoa shells and the complex of synergistically active bioactive components of oil extracts of corn stigmas and eleutherococcus, extract of alcohol-glycerin lily of the valley, providing optimal fatty, protein, water metabolism in the skin, increasing hydratant properties of the skin around the eyes increased blood supply, reduced pastility and swelling of the eyelids in combination with the components of the cream are in the following proportions, wt.%:

Chicken oil 5.0-8.0

Olive Oil8.0-12.0

Perfume oil 3.0-5.0

Cocoa shell oil

bioactive 1.0-3.0

Stearol-stearyl-stearate 4.0-6.0

Cosmetic stearin 4.0-6.0

Triethanolamine 0.3-0.6

Emulsion waxes 2.5-4.5

Anhydrous lanolin 2.4-4.5

OleatPEG-4001.5-2.5

Glycerol monostearate 0.5-1.5

Glycerin 3.0-6.0

Polyvinylpyrrolidone 0.3-0.8

Oil extract

corn stigmas 1.0-2.0

Oil extract

eleutherococcus 1.0-2.0

Alcohol-glycerin lily of the valley extract 1.0-3.0

Methyl ether

paraoxybenzoic

acid 0.2-0.4

Propyl ether

paraoxybenzoic

acid 0.05-0.15

Benzyl alcohol 0.3-0.8

Paraform 0.01-0.04

Fragrance0.3-1.0

WaterUp to 100

In the cream formulation, a complex of animal and vegetable oils was used as a nutritious fatty base, chicken oil - 5.0 - 8.0%. olive oil - 8.0-12.0%, bioactive cocoa butter

1.0-3.0%. Introduction to the recipe below the lower limit of chicken oil - 5.0%, olive oil - 8.0%, cocoa butter - 1.0% does not provide a nourishing softening effect. The introduction into the recipe of the highest limit of chicken oil - 8.0%, olive oil - 12.0% cocoa butter - 3.0% - creates an overwhelming effect.

In the composition of the cream, perfume oil - 3.0 - 5.0% and polyvinylpyrrolidone - 0.3-0.8% were used as a protective film-forming component. Introduction to the formulation below the lower limit of perfume oil - 3.0%, polyvinylpyrrolidone - 0.3% does not provide the specified protective film. Introduction to the recipe above the upper limit of perfume oil - 5.0%, polyvinylpyrrolidone - 0.8% creates an excess effect.

Anhydrous lanolin, 2.5–4.5%, was used as a consistent softening, water-absorbing additive. Introduction to the formulation below the lower limit of lanolin anhydrous - 2.5% does not provide the desired consistency; tion and moisture capacity. The introduction of anhydrous 4.5% above the upper limit of lanolin creates a viscous structure.

Glycerin 3.0 - 6.0% was used as an emollient. The introduction of distilled glycerol below the lower limit of 3.0% into the formulation does not provide an optimal emollient effect. The introduction of glycerol above the upper limit of 6.0% worsens the structure of the cream.

As a builder, glycerol monostearate, 0.5-1.5%, and stearol-stearyl stearate, 4.0-6.0%, which are primary emulsifiers and consistent additives, were introduced into the formulation. Administration of 0.5% glycerol monostearate and 4.0% stearol-stearyl stearate below the lower limit does not provide an emulsifying effect. Introduction above the upper limit of glycerol monostearate

-1.5% and stearol-stearyl-stearate - 6.0% creates a rigid structure.

Cosmetic stearin 4.0-6.0%, which is saponified with triethanolamine 0.3-0.6% to form triethanolamine stearate, was used as an emulsifying base.

PEG-400 oleate of 1.5-2.5% was used as the main emulsifier. Introduction below the lower limit of PEG-400 oleate

-1.5% does not provide an emulsifying effect and persistent emulsion. Introduction above the upper limit of PEG-400 oleate - 2.5% creates a rigid cream structure.

The following complex was used as a synergistically active bioactive additive: cocoa shell bioactive oil - 1.0-3.0%, corn stigma oil extract 1.0-2.0% eleutherococcus oil extract - 1.0-2.0%, extract alcohol-glycerol lily of the valley 1.0-3.0%. Introduction below the lower limit of cocoa shell bioactive oil - 1.0%, oil extract of corn stigmas - 1.0%, oil extract of Eleutherococcus - 1.0% of alcohol-glycerin lily of the valley extract - 1.0% does not provide the desired biologically active effect. The introduction of bioactive additives above the upper limit: cocoa shell oil - 3.0%, oil stigma oil extract - 2.0% eleutherococcus oil extract - 2.0%, alcohol-glycerin lily of the valley extract - 3.0% creates an excess biologically active effect .

The complex was used as preservatives, paraoxybenzoic acid methyl ester - 0.2-0.4%, paraoxybenzoic acid propyl ester 0.05-1.15%, benzyl alcohol 0.3-0.8%, paraform 0.01-0.04%. The introduction below the lower limit of paraoxybenzoic acid methyl ester - 0.2%, paraoxybenzoic acid propyl ester - 0.05%, benzyl alcohol - 0.3%, paraform - 0.01% does not provide a preservative effect. The introduction of preservatives above the upper limit: paraoxybenzoic acid methyl ester - 0.4%, paraoxybenzoic acid propyl ester - 0.15%, benzyl alcohol - 0.8%, paraform - 0.04% creates an excess effect.

As a component providing a pleasant smell to the product, a perfume of 0.3-1.0% is introduced. The introduction of perfumes below the lower limit of 0.3% does not provide the desired tone of the smell. Introduction above the upper limit of perfumes - 1.0% creates a pungent odor (table. 4).

Cream technology consists of the following process steps.

Example 1. In an enamelled melting reactor with a capacity of 1.0 m3 with a steam jacket and a stirrer, charge: chicken oil - 50.0 kg, olive oil - 80.0 kg, perfume oil - 30.0 kg, cocoa butter - 10.0 kg, heated to a temperature of 80-85 ° C and with stirring load stearol-stearyl stearate - 40.0 kg, cosmetic stearin - 40.0 kg, emulsion waxes - 25.0 kg; anhydrous lanolin - 25.0 kg, PEG-400 oleate - 15.0 kg, glycerol monostearate - 5.0 kg, palivinylpyrroldone - 3.0 kg, paraoxybenzoic acid propyl ester - 0.5 kg. Stir until a homogeneous molten mass is formed.

A prescription amount of water of 605.4 is charged into a cooking enameled reactor with a capacity of 1.5 m with a steam jacket and a stirrer. Then glycerol 30.0 kg, triethanolamine 3.0 kg are charged, heated to a temperature of 80-85 ° C and stirred for 30-35 minutes until completely dissolved.

0 Then, the filtered fat base is pumped from the smelting reactor. Emulsify for 15-20 minutes. Then the temperature is lowered to 50-55 ° C and, with stirring, the oil extract of the corn stigmas is loaded - 10.0 kg, the oil extract of eleutherococcus - 10.0 kg, methyl paraoxybenzoic acid - 2.0 kg, benzyl alcohol - 3, 0 kg, para-form - 0.1 kg, extract

0 alcohol-glycerin lily of the valley - 10.0 kg. The temperature is reduced to 25-30 ° C and the fragrance is charged - 3.0 kg. Cool with stirring to a temperature of 20-25 ° C. Ready cream is left to ripen in

5 for 20-24 hours in the workshop packaging and then transferred to packaging.

Example 2. Oil is loaded into an enamelled melting reactor with a capacity of 1.0 m3 with a steam jacket and a stirrer

0 chicken - 70.0 kg, olive oil - 100.0 kg, perfume oil - 40.0 kg, bioactive cocoa butter - 20.0 kg, heated to a temperature of 80-85 ° C and with stirring, load stearol-stearyl stearate 5 50.0 kg, cosmetic stearin - 50.0 kg, emulsion waxes - 35.0 kg anhydrous lanolin 35.0 - kg, PEG-400 oleate - 20.0 kg glycerol monostearate - 10.0 kg, polyvinylpyrrolidone - 6 , 0 kg, propyl ether

0 paraoxybenzoic acid - 1.0 kg. Stir until a homogeneous molten mass is formed.

A prescription amount of water - 444.7 kg, then glycerol - 50.0 kg, triethanolamine - 5.0 kg is heated to a temperature of 80-85 ° C and mixed in a 1.5 m enameled reactor with a steam jacket and a stirrer. 30-35 minutes until complete dissolution. Then

0 filtered fat base is pumped from the smelting reactor, emulsified for 15-20 minutes. Then the temperature is reduced to and with stirring the oil extract of the corn stigma is charged - 15.0 kg, the oil extract of Eleutherococcus - 15.0 kg of paraoxybenzoic acid methyl ester - 3.0 kg, benzyl alcohol - 5.0 kg, paraform - 0.3 kg, alcohol-glycerin lily of the valley extract - 20.0 kg.

Then the temperature is reduced to 25-30 ° C and the fragrance is charged - 5.0 kg. Cool the cream with stirring to a temperature of 20-25 ° C. The finished cream is left to mature for 20-24 hours in a workshop container and then transferred to packaging.

Example 3. In an enamelled melting reactor with a capacity of 1.0 m3 with a steam jacket and a stirrer, chicken oil - 80.0 kg, olive oil 120.0 kg, perfume oil -50.0 kg, bioactive cocoa butter - 30.0 are loaded kg, heated to a temperature of 80-85 ° C and with stirring, load stearol-stearyl stearate - 60.0 kg, cosmetic stearin - 60.0 kg, emulsion waxes - 45.0 kg, anhydrous lanolin - 45.0 kg, oleate PEG-400 - 25.0 kg, glycerol monostearate - 15.0 kg. polyvinylpyrrolidone - 8.0 kg, paraoxybenzoic acid propyl ester - 1.5 kg. Stir until a homogeneous molten mass is formed.

A prescription amount of water, 302.1 kg, is loaded into a cooking enameled reactor with a capacity of 1.5 m3 with a steam jacket and a stirrer. then glycerol - 60.0 kg, triethanolamine - 6.0 kg. Heated to a temperature of 80-85 ° C and stirred for 30-35 minutes until complete dissolution. The filtered fat base is then pumped from the smelting reactor. Emulsify for 15-20 minutes. Then, the temperature was lowered to 50-55 ° С and the oil extract of corn stigmas — 20.0 kg — was loaded with stirring. Eleutherococcus oil extract - 20.0 kg, paraoxybenzoic acid methyl ester 4.0 kg, benzyl alcohol - 8.0 kg, paraform - 0.4 kg, alcohol-glycerin lily of the valley extract - 30.0 kg. Stirred for 10-15 minutes. Then the temperature is reduced to 25-30 ° C and the fragrance is charged - 10.0 kg. Cool to a temperature of 20-25 ° C. The finished cream is matured for 20-24 hours in the workshops of the packaging and then transferred to packaging.

Claims (1)

The claims Eye cream containing olive oil, perfume oil, cosmetic stearin, emulsion waxes, anhydrous lanolin, oleate-400 triethanolamine, glycerol monostearate, glycerin plant extracts, methyl and pro-5 ethyl esters of paraoxybenzoic acid and paraform, perfumes and, distinguishing in order to reduce pastes and swelling of the eyelids, it contains plant extracts of corn stigmas and eleutherococcus, alcohol-glycerin lily of the valley extract, bioactive oil, and also chickens as plant extracts Noe oil, stearyl, stearol, stearate, polyvinylpyrrolidone, benzyl 5 with the following ratios of components, wt.%: Chicken oil 5.0-8.0 Olive Oil8.0-12.0 Perfume oil 3.0-5.0 0 cocoa shell oil bioactive 1.0-3.0 Stearol-stearyl-stearate 4.0-6.0 Cosmetic stearin 4.0-6.0 5 Triethanolamine 0.3-0.6 Emulsion waxes 2.5-4.5 Anhydrous lanolin 2.5-4.5 PEG-400 oleate 1, 5-2.5 Glycerol monostearate 0.5-1.5 0 Distilled glycerol3.0-6.0 Polyvinylpyrrolidone 0.3-0.8 Oil extract of corn stigmas 1.0-2.0 5 Oil extract eleutherococcus 1.0-2.0 Alcohol-glycerin lily of the valley extract 1.0-3.0 Methyl ester 0 paraoxybenzoic acid 0.2-0.4 Paraoxybenzoic acid propyl ester 0.05-0.15 5 Benzyl alcohol 0.3-0.8 Paraform 0.01-0.04 Fragrance0.3-1.0 Water Else Product Name The content of total soluble proteins. G /% Control Eye cream minimum content Eye cream average content Eye cream maximum content Prototype 2.50 ± 0.45 3.75 ± 0.30 3.98 ± 0.42 4.02 ± 0.28 3.48 ± 0.23 Original 100% Increase 50% Increase 59.2% Increase 60.8% increase 39.2% Table 1 Original 100% Increase 50% Increase 59.2% Increase 60.8% increase 39.2% table 2 Table 3 Table 4 Continuation of the table. 4