KR950003193B1 - Making method of multi-color fabric - Google Patents

Making method of multi-color fabric Download PDF

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Publication number
KR950003193B1
KR950003193B1 KR1019930013438A KR930013438A KR950003193B1 KR 950003193 B1 KR950003193 B1 KR 950003193B1 KR 1019930013438 A KR1019930013438 A KR 1019930013438A KR 930013438 A KR930013438 A KR 930013438A KR 950003193 B1 KR950003193 B1 KR 950003193B1
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South Korea
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yarn
semi
nylon
polyester
drawn yarn
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KR1019930013438A
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Korean (ko)
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KR950003501A (en
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송주화
최왕빈
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주식회사 코오롱
하기주
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Priority to KR1019930013438A priority Critical patent/KR950003193B1/en
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D7/00Woven fabrics designed to be resilient, i.e. to recover from compressive stress
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D01NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
    • D01DMECHANICAL METHODS OR APPARATUS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS
    • D01D10/00Physical treatment of artificial filaments or the like during manufacture, i.e. during a continuous production process before the filaments have been collected
    • D01D10/02Heat treatment
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02JFINISHING OR DRESSING OF FILAMENTS, YARNS, THREADS, CORDS, ROPES OR THE LIKE
    • D02J1/00Modifying the structure or properties resulting from a particular structure; Modifying, retaining, or restoring the physical form or cross-sectional shape, e.g. by use of dies or squeeze rollers
    • D02J1/08Interlacing constituent filaments without breakage thereof, e.g. by use of turbulent air streams
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/283Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads synthetic polymer-based, e.g. polyamide or polyester fibres
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/40Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/47Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads multicomponent, e.g. blended yarns or threads
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/56Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P5/00Other features in dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form
    • D06P5/20Physical treatments affecting dyeing, e.g. ultrasonic or electric
    • D06P5/2066Thermic treatments of textile materials
    • D06P5/2077Thermic treatments of textile materials after dyeing
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/02Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyamides
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
  • Fluid Mechanics (AREA)
  • Thermal Sciences (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
  • Artificial Filaments (AREA)

Abstract

The multicolor knitted fabric is manufactured by doubling a nylon semi-drawn yarn and a polyester semi-drawn yarn by the air confounding, heat-treating the doubled yarn at 150˜220 deg.C to make a grey yarn, knitting, scouring, dyeing and heat-treating it. The nylon semi-drawn yarn has a nonaqueous shrinkage rate of 8˜12; and a monofilament fineness of 0.7˜4 denier. The polyester semi-drawn yarn has a breaking enlongation of 80% or more at 2800˜3800 m/min spinning speed, a birefringence rate of 0.03-0.05 and a RS value of 3% or less.

Description

이색조(異色調)직물의 제조방법Manufacturing method of dichroic fabric

제 1도는 본 발명에 사용되는 사의 제조공정도.1 is a manufacturing process diagram of the company used in the present invention.

제 2도는 실시예 2의 염색공정도.2 is a dyeing process of Example 2.

* 도면의 주요부분에 대한 부호의 설명* Explanation of symbols for main parts of the drawings

1 : 폴리에스터반연신사 1' : 나이론반연신사1: Polyester Half Drawn 1 ': Nylon Half Drawn

2 : 얀가이드 3 : 공급롤러2: yarn guide 3: feeding roller

4 : 히터 5 : 공기교락 노즐4 heater 5 air entanglement nozzle

6 : 권취부6: winding part

본 발명은 이색조(異色調)직물의 제조방법에 관한 것이다.The present invention relates to a method for producing a dichroic fabric.

더욱 상세히 설명하면 본 발명은 통상의 폴리아마이드 고배향 미연신사(이하 나이론반연신사)와 통상의 폴리에틸렌테레프탈레이트의 고배향 미연신사(이하 폴리에스터반연신사)를 공기교락에 의하여 합사한 후 열처리를 해서 잠재적 자발신장성을 부여한 원사를 직물의 위사 또는 경사에 적용시키고 통상의 염색가공공정을 거침으로써 은은한 이색조 효과와 함께 숭고성과 유연한 촉감을 갖는 이 색조직물의 제조방법이다.In more detail, the present invention is a polyamide high-oriented unoriented yarn (hereinafter referred to as nylon semi-drawn yarn) and a high-oriented unoriented yarn (hereinafter referred to as polyester semi-drawn yarn) of the usual polyethylene terephthalate (hereinafter referred to as polyester semi-drawn yarn) by the air entangled and then heat treated It is a method of manufacturing this colored tissue having a sublime dichroic effect and a sublime and flexible touch by applying yarns which give potential spontaneity to the weft or warp of the fabric and undergoing a normal dyeing process.

폴리에스터반연신사근 원사상의 고수축성과 달리 일정하게 열처리한 다음에는 그 수축율을 쉽게 상실하며 오히려 조건에 따라서는 이후 공정에서 신장하는 성질이 있다.Unlike the high shrinkage of the polyester semi-extended yarn, the shrinkage rate is easily lost after constant heat treatment.

폴리에그터반연신사의 이러한 열수축특성의 변화에 대한 연구은 일본섬유공학되지 Vol.32 No.10에 발표된 바 있으며 이를 응용하기 위한 각종의 연구가 행하여지고 있다.A study on the change of the heat shrinkage characteristics of polyether half stretched yarn has been published in Japanese Textile Engineering Vol.32 No. 10, and various studies have been conducted to apply it.

본 발명자들은 나이론반연신사의 경우는 폴리에스터반연신사와는 달리 열처리에 따른 수축율의 변화가 거의 없으며 골은 열안정성을 가지고 있음을 알게 되었으며, 나아가서 상술한 바와 같은 폴리에스터반연신사의 수축특성과 나이론반연신사의 유연성을 응용할 수 있을 것이라는 점에 착안하여 본 발명을 완성하게 되었다.The inventors have found that the nylon semi-stretched yarn has almost no change in shrinkage rate due to heat treatment and the bone has thermal stability, unlike polyester semi-stretched yarn, and furthermore, the shrinkage characteristics and nylon of the polyester semi-stretched yarn as described above. The present invention has been completed with the view that the flexibility of anti-stretch yarn can be applied.

종래의 방법들은 다음과 같은 문제점이 있었다.Conventional methods have the following problems.

첫째, 기존의 폴리에스터와 폴리에스터반연신사의 공기교락에 의하여 이수축특성을 부여하는 방식은 2종원사중 1종원사의 선택적 열처리가 처리기대의 제한을 받아서 원사업계 또는 일부 사가공업계의 기대에서만 제한적으로 생산가능하다는 단점을 갖고 있으므로(일본특개평 1-250425, 특개평 3-130427) 기능한 한 한번에 열처리를 하여서 폴리에스터반연신사의 잠재자발신장특성을 발휘시킬 필요가 있다.First, the method of imparting shrinkage characteristics by air entanglement of existing polyester and polyester semi-stretched yarn is limited only to the expectation of the original business or some processing industries because the selective heat treatment of one of the two yarns is limited by the processing expectations. It has a disadvantage that it can be produced (Japanese Patent Laid-Open Publication No. 1-250425, Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open Publication No. 3-130427), and thus it is necessary to exhibit the potential spontaneous elongation characteristics of polyester semi-drawn yarn by performing heat treatment at once.

둘째, 2종원사의 선택열처리시 사용되는 원사간의 제조이력에 따라 코아사와 효과사간의 염색차(스트리키현상)가 발생하여 원단표면이 미려하지 못하게 되는 단점이 있으므로 이를 해결할 필요가 있다.Second, there is a disadvantage in that the surface of the fabric is not beautiful because the dyeing difference (streaky phenomenon) occurs between the core yarn and the effect yarn according to the manufacturing history between the yarns used in the selective heat treatment of the two kinds of yarns.

셋째, 폴리에스터반연신사를 원사제조시에 열처리하지 않고, 사이징, 연사후 꼬임고정 등의 방법으로 잠재자발신장특성을 부여하여 직편물사에 적용하는 경우도 있으나(일본특개소 58-180637, 특개평 1-250433)이러한 원사는 편물에 적용시 직물에 사용되는 경사의 경우처럼 열처리공정이 없으므로 폴리에스터반연신사가 과다하게 축소하고 원단의 기본특성을 전혀 나타내지 못할 정도로 경화되어 버리므로 이를 해결할 필요가 있다.Third, polyester semi-stretched yarn is not heat-treated at the time of yarn manufacture, but may be applied to knitted fabrics by applying latent spontaneous growth characteristics by sizing, twisting, and twisting. (Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 58-180637, Since these yarns do not have a heat treatment process as in the case of warp yarns used in fabrics when applied to knitted fabrics, polyester semi-stretched yarns shrink excessively and harden to the extent that they do not exhibit the basic characteristics of the fabric. have.

본 발명의 요지는 폴리에스터반연신사의 열수축특성과 나이론반연신아의 안정된 열수축현상을 응용한 것으로서, 폴리에스터반연신사의 잠재자발신장특성을 공기교략공정에서 부여하면서 열적으로 안정하며 결과적으로 이색조 효과를 나타내는 유연한 나이론 코아사와 복합시킨 원사를 사용하는데 있다.The gist of the present invention is applied to the heat shrinkage characteristics of polyester semi-stretched yarn and the stable heat shrinkage phenomenon of nylon half-stretched child, and it is thermally stable while imparting the latent spontaneous growth characteristics of polyester semi-stretched yarn in air drawing process and consequently the dichroic effect It is to use a yarn combined with a flexible nylon core.

이러한 두 종류의 공기교락은 기존의 2피더 (feeder) 공기교락기를 간단히 변형한 장치, 즉 공기교락 후열처리할 수 있는 히터부착 공기교락기에서 실시하며 (제 1도 참조), 공기교락 조건은 통상의 방법을 채택하나 이후 열처리되는 히터존에서의 조건은 폴리에스터반연신사와 나이론반연신사의 열적특성을 정확히 감안하여 설정하여야만 기대하는 폴리에스터반연신사의 자발신장특성을 얻을 수 있다.These two types of air entanglements are carried out in a simple modification of the existing two-feeder air entanglement unit, that is, an air entanglement unit with a heater capable of post-heating the air entanglement (see FIG. 1). However, the spontaneous extension characteristics of the polyester semi-drawn yarn can be obtained only when the conditions in the heater zone to be heat-treated are set in consideration of the thermal characteristics of polyester semi-drawn yarn and nylon semi-drawn yarn.

이렇게 제조한 가공사를 위사 또는 경사에 적용하여 통상의 염색을 행함에 있어서 2종원사의 제조이력에 따른 염차를 적극적인 방법으로 발현시키기 위하여 나일론부는 염색을 하고 폴리에스터반연신사는 염색을 하지 않거나, 나이론부와 폴리에스터부를 각각 통상의 1욕 또는 2욕법으로 염색을 하여 적극적인 이색성원단을 제조할 수 있다.In order to express the difference according to the manufacturing history of two kinds of yarns in the normal dyeing by applying the processed yarn to the weft or warp yarn, the nylon part is dyed and the polyester semi-drawn yarn is not dyed or the nylon part is dyed. And the polyester portion can be dyed by a conventional one bath or two bath method, respectively, to produce an active dichroic fabric.

이때 부출된 폴리에스터반연신사는 나일론사를 중심으로 적극적으로 부출하므로 원단의 숭고성이 매우 우수하게 되는 장점도 갖게 되는 것이다.At this time, the polyester semi-stretched yarn is actively poured around the nylon yarn, so that the sublimeness of the fabric is very excellent.

이하 본 발명을 상세하게 설명하면 다음과 같다.Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.

본 발명에 사용되는 원사는 나이론사의 경우 일반적인 3800∼4500m/분의 속도로 방사되는 나이론반연신사(POY)이며, 절단신도가 55∼70%, 비수수축율(100℃ 열수×15분 측정)이 8∼12%이며, 단섬유(單纖維)섬도가 0.7∼4데니어인 것이다.Yarn used in the present invention is a nylon semi-drawn yarn (POY) that is spun at a speed of 3800 ~ 4500m / min in the case of nylon yarn, 55 ~ 70% elongation at break, non-shrinkage (measured 100 ℃ hot water × 15 minutes) 8 It is -12% and single fiber fineness is 0.7-4 denier.

그리고 폴리에스터반연신사의 경우 2800∼3800m/분의 속도로 방사되어 절단신도가 80% 이상, RS가 3%이하인 것이다.In the case of polyester semi-drawn yarn, the yarn is spun at a speed of 2800 to 3800 m / min, and the elongation at break is 80% or more and RS is 3% or less.

여기에서 나이론사의 비수수축율은 주로 방사사속에 의하여 결정되지만 8% 미만인 경우에는 적극적 이수축혼섬효과를 발현하기 힘들며 12%를 넘을시에는 포지의 과다수축에 의하여 직물의 기본적인 촉감을 나타내기 힘들다.Here, the non-shrinkage rate of nylon yarn is mainly determined by the radiation flux, but when it is less than 8%, it is difficult to express an active diaxial mixed island effect, and when it exceeds 12%, it is difficult to express the basic feel of the fabric by the overshrinkage of the forge.

또한, 단섬유섬도가 0.7데니어 미만인 경우는 방사시 조업성이 불량하여 상업적가치가 적고 4데니어가 넘을시에는 뻣뻣한 감이 과다하여 직물의 유연성이 부족하게 된다.In addition, when the single fiber fineness is less than 0.7 denier, the operation performance is poor during spinning, less commercial value, and when more than 4 denier, the stiffness is excessive and the flexibility of the fabric is insufficient.

또 폴리에스터반연신사의 경우 방사속도가 2800m/분 미만이거나 3800m/분을 넘을시에는 결과적으로 후가공에서 폴리에스터반연신사의 자발신장특성을 발현하기 힘들며 2800∼3800m/분의 사속에서 절단신도가 80% 이상, 복굴절율이 0.03∼0.05, RS가 3% 이하이어야만 자발신장특성을 가장 효과적으로 만족시킬 수 있다In the case of polyester semi-drawn yarn, when the spinning speed is less than 2800m / min or more than 3800m / min, it is difficult to express spontaneous elongation characteristics of polyester semi-drawn yarn in post processing and the cut elongation is 80 at 2800 ~ 3800m / min. If the birefringence is 0.03 ~ 0.05 and RS is 3% or less, the spontaneous extension characteristic can be most effectively satisfied.

상기한 폴리에스터반연신사의 물성중 RS는 다음과 같이 정의된다.RS in the properties of the above polyester semi-drawn yarn is defined as follows.

RS(%)=×100RS (%) = × 100

(여기서 L0는 0.1g/d의 하중하에서 측정한 시료이고, L1은 시료를 정장(定長)으로 100℃ 건열중에서 15분간 처리한 후 다시 100℃ 열수중에서 무장력상태로 15분간 수축시킨 후 L0와 같은 방법으로 측정한 길이임.)(L 0 is the sample measured under the load of 0.1g / d, L 1 is the sample treated at 100 ℃ dry heat for 15 minutes in a formal and then shrinked for 15 minutes in the tension state in 100 ℃ hot water again It is measured in the same way as L 0. )

상기한 바와 같은 나이론필라멘트사와 폴리에스터반연신사를 공기교락(INTERLACE) 의하여 교락수30∼90개/m로 합사하고 이후 히터존에서 150∼220℃의 온도로 처리한다.Nylon filament yarn and polyester semi-stretched yarn as described above are plyed together with the number of entanglements 30 to 90 / m by INTERLACE and then treated at a temperature of 150 to 220 ° C. in the heater zone.

이때의 온도는 사속과 히터장. 그리고 히터접촉 여부에 따라 달라지게 되지만 통상의 공기교락기의 사속이 100∼800m/분 임을 고려할 때 가장 저속(상업적 생산성에서)인 100m/분의 사속과 접촉식 히터 (히터장은 1m 기준)에서의 160℃의 온도와 그리고 일반적으로 고속으로 여겨지는 800m/분의 사속에서 220℃ 온도사이에서 처리시 폴리에스터반연신사의 잠재자발신장성을 부여할 수 있으며 공기교락의 안정성 및 열처리의 균일성을 위하여는 170∼210℃의 온도에서 약 150∼300m/분의 사속으로 가공하는 것이 좋다.The temperature at this time is the firing speed and heater field. And it depends on the heater contact, but considering the normal speed of the air throttle is 100 ~ 800m / min, the lowest speed (in commercial productivity) of 100m / min and the contact heater (heater length 1m standard) It can impart latent elongation of polyester semi-stretched yarn at the temperature of 160 ℃ and the temperature of 220m at 800m / min, which is generally considered as high speed. It is preferable to process at a speed of about 150 to 300 m / min at a temperature of 170 to 210 ° C.

상기 열처리조건하에서 나이론반연신사는 열처리 조건에 좌우됨이 없이 거의 일정한 수축율을 유지함을 확인할 수 있었다.Under the heat treatment conditions, it was confirmed that the nylon semi-drawn yarn maintains a substantially constant shrinkage rate regardless of the heat treatment conditions.

상술한 바와 같이 제조한 가공사를 식물의 위사로 사용하여 제직하고 해당 생지를 염색가공함에 있어서 95℃ 온도의 통상의 연속정련기에서 정련조에 2분, 수세조에 1분 통과시키면 충분한 정련효과와 함께 이수축 효과가 발현되며, 정련원단의 수축정도를 감안하여 필요에 따라 다시 160∼190℃ 온도로 예비세트 후 염색공정에 돌입 시킨다.When weaving the processed yarn manufactured as described above as a weft of the plant and dyeing the dough, passing it for 2 minutes through the scouring tank and 1 minute into the rinse tank in a conventional continuous scouring machine at a temperature of 95 ° C with sufficient refining effect. The bishrinkage effect is expressed, and considering the degree of shrinkage of the refined fabric, it is pre-set to 160 ~ 190 ℃ temperature if necessary and then entered into the dyeing process.

염색에 있어서는 코아사를 이루는 나이론쪽만 염색하거나, 1욕 또는 2욕 염색을 함으로서 2종원사간의 염차를 발생시켜 미려한 숭고성 혼색조직물을 제조할 수 있다.In dyeing, only the nylon side forming the core can be dyed, or one bath or two bath dyes can be used to produce a beautiful sublime mixed color tissue by generating a salt difference between two yarns.

이때 이색조의 발현은 염색공정에서 결정되며 나이론쪽만 염색할 때는 폴리에스터쪽은 염색이 되지 않으므로 백색 폴리에스터사의 내측으로 나이론사의 색상이 은은하게 발현되는 장점이 있으나 전체적으로 농색을 나타내기에는 무리가 있으며, 두쪽 모두를 염색하면 대조적인 색상에 의한 적극적 혼색조의 원단의 제조가 가능하다.At this time, the expression of dichroic color is determined in the dyeing process, and when only the nylon side is dyed, the polyester side is not dyed, so the color of the nylon yarn is softly expressed inside the white polyester yarn. Dyeing both makes it possible to produce active blended fabrics in contrasting colors.

[실시예 1]Example 1

방사속도 4100m/분으로 방사되고 절단신도가 72%, 비수수축율이 9.1%인 나이론반연신사 50데니어 13필라멘트사와, 방사속도 3100m/분, 절단신도가 139%, RS치가 -1.6%인 폴리에스터반연신사 60데니어 36필라멘트사를 제 1도에서와 같이 사속 250m/분, 교락수 60개/m로 공기교락한 후 계속하여 접촉식 1.2m의 히터에 195℃에 온도로 열처리하여 제조하고, 상기 가공사를 위사로 하고 통상의 나이론반연신사 70데니어/24필라멘트를 경사로하여 108본/인치× 60본/인치의 밀도로 제직한 후 통상의 나이론 연속정련을 거치고 170℃ ×30초 예비세트한 후 나이론부분만 염색하고 최종열고정을 하였다.50% denier 13 filament yarn of nylon semi-stretched yarn with 72% elongation and 9.1% non-shrinkage with a spinning speed of 4100m / min, polyester reel with 3100m / min, 139% elongation and -1.6% RS The gentleman 60 denier 36 filament yarn as shown in Fig. 1 was air-interlaced at a firing speed of 250 m / min and the number of entanglements 60 / m, and then heat-treated at a temperature of 195 ° C. in a 1.2 m heater, Weaving at 70 nylon denier / 24 filament of normal nylon semi-stretched yarn, and weaving it to a density of 108 bones / inch x 60 bones / inch Only dyeing and final heat fixation.

[실시예 2]Example 2

실시예 1과 동일하나 염색은 제 2도와 같이 염색하였다.Same as Example 1, but stained as shown in FIG.

[비교예 1]Comparative Example 1

실시예 1과 동일하나 공기료락후 열처리공정을 제외하였다.Same as Example 1 except the heat treatment step after air charge.

[비교예 2]Comparative Example 2

실시예 1에서 나이론반연신사 대신에 방사속도 800m/분, 연신비 3.2로 냉연신하여 얻어진 50데니어 12필라멘트 나이론원사(비수수축율 13%)를 사용한 것이외에는 실시예 1과 동일하게 하였다.In Example 1, 50 denier 12 filament nylon yarn (non-shrinkage ratio 13%) obtained by cold stretching at a spinning speed of 800 m / min and a draw ratio of 3.2 was used instead of nylon half stretched yarn, and was the same as in Example 1.

상기 실시예와 비교예로 제조한 원단의 특성을 관능적으로 판정한 결과는 다음과 같다.Sensory determination of the characteristics of the fabric produced in the above Examples and Comparative Examples is as follows.

[표 1]TABLE 1

여기에서 판정등급은 5(우수), 4(양호, 효과있음), 3(보통), 2(미흡), 1(불량, 효가없음)의 기준으로 12인의 윈단생산관련자의 관능평가결과를 평균한 수치임.Here, the evaluation grade is the average of sensory evaluation results of 12 winddan production related persons on the basis of 5 (excellent), 4 (good, effective), 3 (normal), 2 (poor) and 1 (bad, no effect). It is a figure.

Claims (1)

비수수축율이 8∼12%이고 단(單)섬유섬도가 0.7∼4데니어인 나이론반연신사와, 방사속도 2800∼3800m/분에서 절단신도가 80% 이상이며 복굴절율이 0.03∼0.05이고 RS치가 3% 이하인 폴리에스터반연신사를 공기교락에 의하여 합사한다음 150∼220℃의 온도로 열처리하여 제조한 원사를 위사 또는 경사로 사용하여 제직한 것을 정련하고 이색 (異色)으로 염색한 후 열처리함을 특징으로 하는 이색조(異色調)직물의 제조방법.A nylon semi-drawn yarn with a specific shrinkage of 8-12% and a single fiber fineness of 0.7-4 denier, an elongation at break of 80% or more at a spinning speed of 2800-3800 m / min, a birefringence of 0.03-0.05, and an RS value of 3 After weaving polyester semi-drawn yarn of less than or equal to% by air entanglement, weaving the yarn manufactured by weaving it with a weft or warp at 150 ~ 220 ℃, dying it with bicolor, and heat-treating it A method of manufacturing a dichroic textile fabric. 단, RS(%)=×100Where RS (%) = × 100 (여기서 L0는 0.1g/d의 하중하에서 측정한 시료이고, L1은 시료를 정장(定長)으로 100℃ 건열중에서 15분간 처리한 후 다시 100℃ 열수중에서 무장력상태로 15분간 수축시킨 후 L0와 같은 방법으로 측정한 길이임.)(L 0 is the sample measured under the load of 0.1g / d, L 1 is the sample treated at 100 ℃ dry heat for 15 minutes in a formal and then shrinked for 15 minutes in the tension state in 100 ℃ hot water again It is measured in the same way as L 0. )
KR1019930013438A 1993-07-16 1993-07-16 Making method of multi-color fabric KR950003193B1 (en)

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