KR930011949B1 - Process for manufacturing textured mixing yarn having a differential shrinking - Google Patents
Process for manufacturing textured mixing yarn having a differential shrinking Download PDFInfo
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- KR930011949B1 KR930011949B1 KR1019910023652A KR910023652A KR930011949B1 KR 930011949 B1 KR930011949 B1 KR 930011949B1 KR 1019910023652 A KR1019910023652 A KR 1019910023652A KR 910023652 A KR910023652 A KR 910023652A KR 930011949 B1 KR930011949 B1 KR 930011949B1
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C7/00—Heating or cooling textile fabrics
- D06C7/02—Setting
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Woven Fabrics (AREA)
- Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
- Multicomponent Fibers (AREA)
Abstract
Description
본 발명은 고수축폴리에스터섬유와 저수축폴리에스터섬유가 혼섬된 이수축복합사로 이루어진 이수축복합사직물의 제조방법에 관한 것이다.The present invention relates to a method for producing a bi-shrink composite yarn composed of a bi-shrink composite yarn in which a high shrink polyester fiber and a low shrink polyester fiber are mixed.
더욱 구체적으로 설명하면, 본 발명은 방사혼섬된 폴리에스터이수축복합사로 직물을 제조함에 있어서 열수축차를 크게하여서 열수축가공시에 사장차가 효과적으로 발현되도록 하여 부피감, 현수성(懸垂性)(Drape性), 표면요철감 등과 같은 천연 견이 가지고 있는 우수한 질감을 나타내도록 하는 이수축복합사직물의 제조방법에 관한 것이다.More specifically, the present invention is to increase the heat shrinkage difference in the manufacturing of the fabric of the spinning blended polyester shrink shrink composite yarn to effectively express the difference in the heat shrinkage processing, the feeling of volume, suspension (Drape), The present invention relates to a method for producing a biaxially woven composite fabric to exhibit excellent texture of natural silk such as surface irregularities.
종래의 이수축효과를 갖는 직물은 이수축혼섬사를 사용한 것이었다.A conventional fabric having a bishrink effect was to use bispun blended yarn.
그러나, 이들 혼섬사는 대부분 별도로 방사된 각각의 연신사를 다시 연신합사하여야 하므로 공정이 번거로울 뿐만 아니라 세데니어의 혼섬사를 얻는데도 어려움이 있었다.However, since these blended yarns have to be stretched again for each of the separately drawn yarns, the process is not only cumbersome, but also difficult to obtain cedene blended yarns.
한편, 방사시 고수축성분과 저수축성분을 함께 방사하여 한번의 방사공정으로 이수축혼섬사을 얻는 방법이 알려져 있다.On the other hand, a method of spinning a high shrinkage component and a low shrinkage component at the time of spinning together to obtain a biaxial blended yarn in one spinning process is known.
이와 같이 제조한 이수축복합사는 이수축효과도 우수하고 세데니어도 얻을 수 있는 장점을 가지고 있으나, 제품으로 만들었을때 기존의 이수축혼섬사가 가지는 문제 뿐만 아니라 종래의 이수축직물 제조에서는 없었던 문제점이 발생하였다.The shrink shrink composite fabricated in this way has the advantages of excellent shrinkage effect and sedenite, but when it is made into a product, not only the problem of the conventional shrink shrink blend yarn but also the problem that the conventional shrink shrink fabric did not exist. It was.
첫째, 종전의 혼섬사나 이수축복합사는 호부공정에서 0.4데니어 이상의 높은 장력과 100℃ 이상의 고온처리리를 받기 때문에 열수축차가 낮아져서 열수축가공시 열수축차에 의한 사장차를 효과적으로 발현시킬 없었다.First, since the previous blended yarn or diaxial shrinkage composite was subjected to high tension of 0.4 denier and high temperature treatment at 100 ℃ or higher in the hoisting process, the heat shrinkage difference was lowered, so it was not possible to effectively express the dead wave caused by the heat shrinkage difference during heat shrinkage processing.
일본공개특허 소화 59-118005호에서는 필라멘트사 제조시 교락을 부여하거나 또는 필라멘트에 약연을 부여하여 호부공정을 생략하고 있으나, 제직시 조업성이 나쁘거나, 열수축가공 후 외관상으로 교락반을 발생시키는 등의 문제점이 제기되어 왔다.In Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 59-118005, the fusing process is omitted by providing entanglement in the manufacture of filament yarn or by giving a weak lead to the filament, but it is not easy to operate during weaving, or generates entanglement in appearance after heat shrinkage processing. Problems have been raised.
둘째, 열수축가공의 습열이완처리를 120℃ 이상의 고온으로 1회 이완처리하는 경우에 단시간 동안에 수축이 과다하게 일어나, 최종제품의 촉감과 외관을 손상시키는 원인이 되어 왔다.Second, when the wet heat relaxation treatment of the heat shrink processing is performed once at a high temperature of 120 ° C. or more, shrinkage occurs excessively in a short time, which causes damage to the feel and appearance of the final product.
또 건열이완처리 역시 180℃ 이상의 고온에서 처리하였으므로 촉감이 불량하였다.In addition, the dry heat relaxation treatment was also performed at a high temperature of more than 180 ℃ because the touch was poor.
본 발명자들은 고수축폴리에스터와 저수축폴리에스터를 방사혼섬한 이수축복합사의 열수축차를 극대화하여 열수축가공시 사장차가 효과적으로 발현되도록 하여서 최종제품의 현수성, 부피감, 표면요철감이 우수한 이수축복합사직물의 제조방법을 발명하게 되었다.The present inventors maximize the heat shrinkage difference of the hydroshrink composite yarns which have a high shrinkage polyester and a low shrinkage polyester spin-mixed to effectively express the dead-difference during the heat shrinkage processing, so that the final shrinkage composites have excellent suspension, volume, and surface irregularities. Invented a method of manufacturing a fabric.
본 발명은 고수축폴리에스터와 저수축폴리에스터를 방사혼섬한 이수축복합사에 무교락상태의 약연을 부여하고, 저온저속으로 호부하여 제직한 후, 열수축가공시에 저온과 고온의 2회 습열이완처리와 저온 장시간의 건열이완처리로 제조함을 특징으로 하는 이수축복합사직물의 제조방법이다.The present invention gives a non-entangled weak edge to a biaxial shrinkage composite yarn in which a high shrinkage polyester and a low shrinkage polyester are spin-mixed, and weaved by low temperature low speed weaving, followed by two-time damp heat relaxation at low and high temperatures during heat shrinkage processing. It is a method for producing a biaxially woven composite fabric characterized in that it is produced by treatment and dry heat relaxation treatment for a long time at low temperature.
본 발명을 보다 상세히 설명하면, 본 발명은 공중합성분에 의해 수축율이 높아진 고수축폴리에스터와 일반 폴리에스터를 방사혼섬하여 제조한 것으로서, 30분간의 비수처리후에 수축율의 차이가 5% 이상인 폴리에스터 이수축복합사를 무교락 상태에서 200∼400T/M의 약한 꼬임을 부여하고 0.2∼0.4g/d의 장력과 60∼100℃의 온도에서 호부한 원사를 경사로 사용한다.When explaining the present invention in more detail, the present invention is prepared by spinning a high shrinkage polyester and a general polyester with a high shrinkage by the copolymerization component, the polyester shrinkage difference of 5% or more after 30 minutes of non-aqueous treatment Blessed yarn is given a weak twist of 200 ~ 400T / M in the non-entangled state, and the yarn which is called at a temperature of 60 ~ 100 ℃ with a tension of 0.2 ~ 0.4g / d is used as a warp.
본 발명에서 교락을 주지않고 약한 꼬임만을 부여한 원사를 사용하므로 최종제품에서 교락반에 의한 외관손상이 없다.In the present invention, there is no appearance damage due to the entanglement in the final product because the yarn is used to give only a weak twist without giving entanglement.
본 발명에서 꼬임수가 200T/M미만이면 최종제품의 현수성이 저하되고 400T/M를 초과하면 최종제품에서의 따뜻한 감이 적어지게 된다.In the present invention, if the number of twist is less than 200T / M, the suspension of the final product is lowered, and if it exceeds 400T / M, the warm feeling in the final product is less.
또한 본 발명에서 원사를 저장력하에서 100℃이하의 온도로 호부하는 이유는 100℃보다 높은 온도에서 호부할 경우, 제직전에 수축이 과다하게 일어나서 실제 수축가공시 수축효과가 감소하여 이수축사장차에 의한 최종제품의 품위향상을 기대할 수 없기 때문이다.In addition, in the present invention, the reason for calling the yarn at a temperature of 100 ° C. or less under the storage capacity is that when it is called at a temperature higher than 100 ° C., the shrinkage occurs excessively before weaving and the shrinkage effect is reduced during the actual shrinkage processing. This is because the quality of the final product cannot be expected.
한편, 60℃미만의 온도에서는 호부자체가 곤란하다.On the other hand, at a temperature below 60 ° C., it is difficult to attach itself.
본 발명에서 이수축효과를 극대화하기 위해서는 후가공시의 열수축가공이 중요한데 본 발명은 정련축소하는 습열이완공정을 80∼100℃의 저온에서 1차로 이완시킨 후, 110∼125℃의 고온에서 2차 이완하는 것을 특징으로 한다.In order to maximize the shrinkage effect in the present invention, the heat shrinkage process at the time of post-processing is important, but the present invention relaxes the moist heat relaxation process to be refined and reduced first at a low temperature of 80 to 100 ° C, and then to a second relaxation at a high temperature of 110 to 125 ° C. Characterized in that.
본 발명에서 1차 이완온도를 80℃미만으로 하면 폴리에스터의 유리전이온도(Tg)보다 낮아져서 축소가 일어나지 않고, 100℃보다 높게하면 2차 이완온도와 차이가 없게 되므로 균일성 부여를 위해 두 단계로 이완시키는 의미를 상실하게 된다.In the present invention, when the primary relaxation temperature is less than 80 ° C., it is lower than the glass transition temperature (Tg) of the polyester so that no shrinkage occurs. If the primary relaxation temperature is higher than 100 ° C., there is no difference from the secondary relaxation temperature. The meaning of relaxation is lost.
또 2차 이완온도를 125℃보다 높게하면 과수축으로 인하여 건열이완까지를 마친 최종제품의 품위가 저하된다.In addition, if the secondary relaxation temperature is higher than 125 ℃, the quality of the final product after the completion of dry heat relaxation due to overshrinkage.
이와 같이 2차에 걸쳐 습열이완처리하면 1회 고온처리하는 경우보다 훨씬 균일한 수축을 부여할 수 있다.In this way, when the heat treatment for moist heat is applied to the secondary phase, a much more uniform shrinkage can be given than when the high temperature treatment is performed once.
습열이완처리 다음에 부여된 수축을 균일하고도 안정적으로 고정시켜주기 위하여 140∼180℃에서 1분이상 건열이완처리한다.Dry heat relaxation treatment is performed at 140-180 ° C. for at least 1 minute to ensure uniform and stable fixation of the shrinkage given after the moist heat relaxation treatment.
그 이유는 종래와 같이 180℃보다 높은 온도에서 단시간처리하면 균일한 질감을 얻기가 힘들어 변부와 심부사이에 그리고 초기 처리분과 말기 처리분사이에 편차가 크고 최종제품의 뻣뻣함(Stiffness)도 증가하게 되기 때문이고, 140℃미만이면 열고정이 불가능하다.The reason for this is that it is difficult to obtain a uniform texture when processed for a short time at a temperature higher than 180 ° C as in the prior art, so that there is a large variation between the edge and the core and between the initial and the final treatment, and the stiffness of the final product also increases. This is because heat setting is impossible if it is less than 140 degreeC.
상기의 방법으로 얻어진 이수축복합사직물은 직물상태에서 원사간에 5∼30%의 사장차가 발현하여 천연견의 질감과 외관을 얻을 수 있었다.The di-shrinkable composite fabric obtained by the above method was able to obtain the texture and appearance of natural dogs by expressing 5-30% of the difference between yarns in the state of the fabric.
[실시예 1]Example 1
전산성분에 대하여 10몰%의 네오펜틸글리콜이 공중합된 비수수축율 17%의 고수축폴리에스터와 고유점도가 0.64포아즈이고 비수수축율이 7%인 저수축폴리에스터를 방사혼섬하여 비수수축율이 10%인 50데니어 24필라멘트의 이수축복합사를 얻었다.Non-shrinkage rate is 10% by spinning and mixing 10 mol% neopentylglycol copolymerized non-shrinkage polyester with 17% non-shrinkage and low shrinkage polyester with intrinsic viscosity of 0.64 poise and 7% non-shrinkage. A biaxial shrinkage composite yarn of 50 denier 24 filaments was obtained.
상기 이수축복합사에 교락없이 S연 300T/M을 부여하고 0.3g/d의 장력과 85℃의 온도에서 호부하여 경사를 준비하였다.S-weave 300T / M was given to the biaxially-composite composite yarn without entanglement, and the warp was prepared at a tension of 0.3 g / d and a temperature of 85 ° C. to prepare a slope.
위사로는 고유점도 0.64포아즈인 폴리에스터를 방사하여 얻은 75데니어 72필라멘트의 멀티필라멘트에 S, Z 교호로 2400T/M 꼬임을 부여한 것을 사용하였다. 상기 경, 위사를 사용하여 경사밀도 150본/위치, 위사밀도 94본/인치의 평직으로 제직하였다.As the weft yarn, a multi-filament of 75 denier 72 filaments obtained by spinning a polyester having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.64 poise was used to give 2400T / M twist in alternating S and Z directions. The warp and weft yarns were used to weave plain weaves having a warp density of 150 bones / position and a weft density of 94 bones / inch.
상기 직물을 95℃에서 1회, 115℃에서 1회로 2회에 걸쳐서 습열이완처리하고 160℃에서 1분간 건열이완처리하여 최종제품을 얻었다.The fabric was wet heat-relaxed twice at once at 95 ° C and once at 115 ° C and dry heat-treated at 160 ° C for 1 minute to obtain a final product.
얻어진 제품의 물성을 관능시험하여 그 결과를 표1에 나타내었다.The physical properties of the obtained product were sensory tested and the results are shown in Table 1.
[실시예 2, 3][Examples 2 and 3]
제조조건을 표1과 같이 변경한 것 이외에는 실시예1과 동일한 방법으로 제조하였다.The preparation was carried out in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the production conditions were changed as shown in Table 1.
[비교예 1~4][Comparative Examples 1-4]
제조조건을 표1과 같이 변경한 것이외에는 실시예1과 동일한 방법으로 제조하였다.It was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the production conditions were changed as shown in Table 1.
[표 1]TABLE 1
※ 단, ◎; 극히양호, ○; 양호, △; 보통, ×; 불량※ ◎; Extremely good, ○; Good, Δ; Usually, ×; Bad
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