KR900001923B1 - Process for dyeing of silk fabric and silk fabric dyed from above process - Google Patents

Process for dyeing of silk fabric and silk fabric dyed from above process Download PDF

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KR900001923B1
KR900001923B1 KR1019870004145A KR870004145A KR900001923B1 KR 900001923 B1 KR900001923 B1 KR 900001923B1 KR 1019870004145 A KR1019870004145 A KR 1019870004145A KR 870004145 A KR870004145 A KR 870004145A KR 900001923 B1 KR900001923 B1 KR 900001923B1
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silk fabric
degrees celsius
silk
agent
temperature
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KR1019870004145A
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KR880012832A (en
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정병세
이종호
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주식회사 선
정병세
이종호
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/02Material containing basic nitrogen
    • D06P3/04Material containing basic nitrogen containing amide groups
    • D06P3/06Material containing basic nitrogen containing amide groups using acid dyes

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
  • Coloring (AREA)

Abstract

A process for dyeing silk fabric comprises (a) impregnating the 1st mixt. [of acidic dyes and microemulsion into silk fabric by 1-4% of bath ratio; (b)impregnating the 2nd mixt. [of microemulsion and softeners at 10-50 deg. C in the 1st bath; (c) passing the silk through a mangle; (d) adding fixer and tendering at 100-140 deg. C; and (e) passing the silk through an electoplateddrum-press roller at 100-180 deg. C.

Description

실크직물의 염색방법 및 그 방법에 의해 염색된 실크직물Dyeing method of silk fabric and silk fabric dyed by the method

제1도는 본 발명의 실시예에 대한 전체 공정을 개략적으로 표시한 개략도.1 is a schematic representation of the overall process for an embodiment of the present invention.

* 도면의 주요부분에 대한 부호의 설명* Explanation of symbols for main parts of the drawings

1 : 실린더 비임 2 : 실크직물1: cylinder beam 2: silk fabric

5 : 제1배드 6 : 맹글기5: the first bad 6: manggi

8 : 제2배드 9 : 탠더기8: the second bad 9: the tanger

10 : 드럼프레스 로울러10: Drum Press Roller

본 발명은 실크직물의 염색방법 및 그 방법에 의해 염색된 실크직물에 관한 것이다.The present invention relates to a method for dyeing silk fabrics and silk fabrics dyed by the method.

종래에, 실크직물은 타직물에서 찾을 수 없는 부드러운 촉감, 광택 및 견명성을 갖추고 있는 천연섬유로서 고가(高價)임에도 불구하고 그것이 지닌 상기 특성 때문에 고급의류 뿐 아니라 다른 일반 제품에 까지도 그 이용이 계속 증가되어 왔다.Conventionally, silk fabric is a natural fiber having a soft touch, gloss, and clarity that is not found in other fabrics, but despite its high price, silk fabric continues to be used not only for high-end clothing but also for other general products. Has been increased.

그러나, 일반 제품으로의 다양한 이용확장에 있어서, 종래 실크직물은 실크직물상에 고급품질의 색상 및 무늬를 염색하는 것이 시간적, 경제적 손실이 막대한 자카드 (Jacquard) 방법에 의해서만 가능했다는 점 및 염색된 실크직물의 취급상 쉽게 구김이 생긴다거나 세탁하는데 과다한 비용이 든다는 점등의 문제점을 안고 있었다.However, in various applications as a general product, conventional silk fabrics have been only dyed by the Jacquard method, in which it is possible to dye high quality colors and patterns on silk fabrics with a huge time and economic loss. There was a problem of lighting that wrinkles are easily generated in the handling of the fabric or excessive costs are required for washing.

본 발명은 이와 같은 종래의 문제점을 완전히 보완한 것으로 물세탁이 가능할 뿐 아니라 쉽게 구김이 생기지 않기 때문에 그 취급이 용이하고, 간단한 공정에 의해 실크원단에 원하는 고질의 색상 및 무늬염색을 자유로이 할 수있으며, 더욱이 광택 및 촉감면에서도 종래의 실크직물보다 훨씬 탁월하게 하는 특유한 염색방법 및 그 방법에 의해 염색된 실크직물을 제공하는 데 그 목적이있다.The present invention completely complements the above-mentioned problems, and it is not only easy to wash the water, but also easy to handle because it does not wrinkle easily, and the desired high quality color and pattern dyeing on the silk fabric can be freely performed by a simple process. In addition, it is an object of the present invention to provide a unique dyeing method which makes it much more excellent than conventional silk fabrics in terms of gloss and touch, and silk fabrics dyed by the method.

본 발명의 염색방법은 상기 목적을 달성하기 위해 욕비(bath ratio)1내지 4%로 하여 산성염료 및 미세에멀션화제(microemulsion)로 배합된 제1혼합물을 실크직물에 함침시키는 단계, 유연제(softners)와 상기 미세에멀션화제로 배합된 제2혼합물을 섭씨 10내지 50도의 온도 범위로 제1배드(bath)에서 상기 실크직물에 함침시킨후 맹글(mangle)기를 통하여 하는 단계, 고착제를 상기 실크직물에 함침시키는 단계, 상기 실크직물을 섭씨 100내지 140도의 온도범위에서 탠더기를 사용하여 탠더링(tendering)하는 단계, 및 상기 실크직물을 섭씨 100내지 180도의 온도 범위에서 전기 도금된 드럼 프레스 로울러에 통하게 하는 단계로 이루어져 있다.In order to achieve the above object, the dyeing method of the present invention comprises impregnating a silk fabric with a first mixture of an acid dye and a microemulsion in a bath ratio of 1 to 4%, softners. And impregnating the second mixture blended with the microemulsifier into the silk fabric in a first bath at a temperature in the range of 10 to 50 degrees Celsius, and then through a mangle. Steps to: Tendering the silk fabric using a tanner at a temperature range of 100 to 140 degrees Celsius, and Passing the silk fabric to an electroplated drum press roller at a temperature range of 100 to 180 degrees Celsius It consists of steps.

또한 본 발명에 의해 염색된 실크직물은 상기 목적을 달성하기 위해 실크원단에 산성염료와 미세에멀션화제로 배합된 제1혼합물로서 상기 실크직물에 1차로 처리된 제1피막부, 유연제와 상기 미세에멀션화제로 배합된 제2혼합물로서 상기 실크직물에 2차 처리된 제2피막부, 및 고착제로서 상기 실크직물에 3차 처리된 제3피막부가 형성되어있다.In addition, the silk fabric dyed by the present invention is a first mixture, which is primarily treated on the silk fabric as the first mixture blended with an acid dye and a microemulsifier in the silk fabric to achieve the above object, the softening agent and the microemulsion A second coating portion secondly treated on the silk fabric as a second mixture blended with a topical agent, and a third coating portion thirdly treated on the silk fabric as a fixing agent are formed.

이하 첨부도면에 따라서 본 발명의 실시예를 상세하게 설명하면 다음과 같다.Hereinafter, an embodiment of the present invention according to the accompanying drawings in detail as follows.

제1도는 본 발명의 1실시예에 대한 전체공정을 개략적으로 표시한 것이며, 그 공정은 5단계로 이루어져있고, 이해를 돕기 위해 각 공정별로 설명하기로 한다.1 is a schematic view of the entire process of one embodiment of the present invention, the process consists of five steps, and will be described for each process for better understanding.

[제1공정][Step 1]

참조번호(1)는 실린더 비임을 나타내는 것으로, 제1단계공정은 이곳에서 실행된다. 실크직물(2)은 실린더비임(1) 내부의 원통부(11) 표면에 감겨져 도면과 같이 실린더 비임(1)내부로 삽입된 다음 실린더비임(1)외부에 돌설된 개구를 통하여 산성염료가 가미된 제1혼합물(3)이 채워지게된다. 이때 제1혼합물(3)은 물과 산성염료 및 미세에멀션화제로 배합된 것이며, 욕비(BATH RATIO)는 1내지 4%이다. 또한 미세에멀션화제는 양이온이고 PH6.0내지 5.0인 아미노 작용기 폴리디메틸 실록산을 주성분으로 한 물질이 바람직하다. 상기 제1혼합물(3)에 의해 실린더 비임(1)내에서 실크원단이 원하는 색상으로 염식되게 된다.Reference numeral 1 denotes a cylinder beam, and the first step process is performed here. The silk fabric (2) is wound on the surface of the cylindrical portion (11) inside the cylinder beam (1) and inserted into the cylinder beam (1) as shown in the drawing, and then acid dye is applied through the opening protruding outside the cylinder beam (1). The first mixture 3 is filled. At this time, the first mixture 3 is mixed with water, an acidic dye and a microemulsifier, and the bath ratio (BATH RATIO) is 1 to 4%. Also preferred are microemulsifiers which are cationic and are based on amino functional polydimethyl siloxanes having a pH of 6.0 to 5.0. The first mixture 3 causes the silk fabric to be dyed in the desired color in the cylinder beam 1.

상기한 바와 같이 제1혼합물(3)속에 미세에멀션화제를 첨가함으로써, 실크조직 내부로부터 부드러운 효과를 갖게 된다는 것과 상기 욕비에 대한 최적조건은 2%라는 사실이 수차 실험을 통하여 알게 되었다.As described above, it was found through the aberration experiment that the microemulsifier was added to the first mixture 3 to have a soft effect from inside the silk tissue and that the optimum condition for the bath ratio was 2%.

[제2공정][Step 2]

제1공정을 마친 실크직물은 제1배드(bath)(5)로 들어오며, 제2혼합물(4)이 실크직물에 함침되게 된다. 제2혼합물(4)은 유연제(softners) 및 상기 제1공정에서와 동일한 미세에멀션화제로 배합된 것이다. 여기서 유연제의 사용은 제1공정을 거친 실크직물(2)에 유연한 촉감을 주기 위하여 쓰인다. 제1배드 내의 제2혼합물의 온도은 섭씨 10내지 50도 사이를 유지한다. 제1배드(5)를 통과한 실크직물은 제1배드(5)내의 제2혼합물(4)를 고르게 분포시키기 위해 맹글(mangle)기(6)를 통하게된다.After the first step, the silk fabric enters the first bath 5 and the second mixture 4 is impregnated into the silk fabric. The second mixture 4 is formulated with softners and the same microemulsifier as in the first process. Here, the use of the softening agent is used to give a soft touch to the silk fabric 2 subjected to the first process. The temperature of the second mixture in the first bed is maintained between 10 and 50 degrees Celsius. The silk fabric passing through the first bed 5 is passed through a mangle group 6 to evenly distribute the second mixture 4 in the first bed 5.

또한 상기와 같이 제2혼합물 속에 미세에멀션화제를 재차 첨가함으로써 섬유표면의 광택을 더욱 증진시키는 효과를 가져왔고 제2혼합물의 온도는 섭씨 40도가 최적이라는 것이 수차 실험을 통해 알게 되었다.In addition, as described above, the microemulsifier was added to the second mixture again to further enhance the gloss of the fiber surface, and it was found through the aberration experiment that the temperature of the second mixture was 40 degrees Celsius.

[제3공정][Step 3]

맹글기(6)를 통과한 직물은 제2배드(8)로 들어오며, 이때 고착제(7)가 실크직물(2)에 피복되게된다. 여기서 고착제(7)는 양성이고 PH8.5인 반응성 실리콘 탄성체, 디메틸 폴리실록산 및 유기 틴 화합물로 이루어진 에멀션화제인 것이 바람직하다.The fabric passed through the mantle 6 enters the second bed 8, whereby the fixing agent 7 is coated on the silk fabric 2. The fixing agent 7 here is preferably an emulsifier consisting of a reactive silicone elastomer, dimethyl polysiloxane and an organic tin compound which is positive and PH8.5.

또한 제4공정에 들어가지 전에 고착제(7)를 피복시킴으로써 우수한 질감을 창출해 낼 수 있다는 것을 수차 실험으로 통해 알게되었다.In addition, it has been found by aberration experiments that the coating material 7 can be produced by coating the fixing agent 7 before entering the fourth process.

[제4공정][Step 4]

고착제(7)가 피복된 실크직물은 섭씨 100내지 140도의 온도범위에서 탠더링(tendering)작업을 하게된다. 이때 탠더링작업을 가장 효과적으로 마치기 위해 최적의 온도는 섭씨 105도라는 것을 알게되었다.The silk fabric coated with the fixing agent 7 is tendered in a temperature range of 100 to 140 degrees Celsius. At this time, the optimum temperature was found to be 105 degrees Celsius in order to finish the tendering work most effectively.

[제5공정][Step 5]

텐더기(9)를 통과한 실크직물(2)은 최종단계인 드럼 프레스 로울러(10)를 통과하게된다. 드럼 프레스 로울러(10)는 전기 도금된 로울러이며, 그 표면에 무늬모양이 프린트되어 있어 실크직물상에 원하는 무늬모양이 이 로울러를 통과시에 형성되도록 되어있다.The silk fabric 2 that has passed through the tender machine 9 passes through the final stage drum press roller 10. The drum press roller 10 is an electroplated roller, and the pattern is printed on its surface so that a desired pattern on the silk fabric is formed upon passing through the roller.

또한 로울러의 온도는 섭씨 100내지 180도 사이이며, 작업효과상 최적의 온도는 섭씨 160도라는 것을 알게되었으며, 본 로울러를 통과한 실크직물의 구김도에 대한 실험에서, 본 발명에 의거 직물은 타 실크제품보다 훨씬 우수하다는 것과 물세탁이 가능하다는 사실을 알게 되었다.In addition, the temperature of the roller is between 100 to 180 degrees Celsius, it was found that the optimum temperature of the working effect is 160 degrees Celsius, and in the experiment on the wrinkle degree of the silk fabric passed through this roller, the fabric according to the present invention is the other silk I found that it is much better than the product and washable.

이하 본 발명의 박용 및 효과를 설명하면 다음과 같다.Hereinafter, the abuse and effects of the present invention will be described.

본 발명은 상기한 바와 같이, 제1공정에서 미세에멀션화제라는 특수약품을 추가 배합함으로써, 종전의 일반 실크염색가공이 그 표면만을 부드럽게 하는데 반해, 이것은 조직 내부로 부터의 부드러운 효과를 갖게 되었으며, 제2공정에서 유연제에 미세에멀션화제를 재차 추가배합함으로써 섬유표면의 광택을 더욱 증진시켰고, 제3공정에서 고착제를 사용함으로써 종전보다 더욱 개선된 질감(質感) 효과를 갖게 되었으며 최종적으로 무늬가 프린팅된 드럼 프레스 로울러에 의해 상기 직물이 열압축됨으로써 실크직물상에 원하는 무늬를 용이하게 형성시킬수 있어 무늬의 다양화와 풍부한 물량을 저렴한 가격으로 단시일 내에 생산할 수 있는 효과를 얻게되었다.As described above, in the first step, by adding a special drug called a microemulsifier, the conventional silk dyeing process softens only the surface thereof, but it has a soft effect from inside the tissue. In the second process, the emulsifier was added to the softener again to further enhance the gloss of the surface of the fiber, and in the third process, the use of the fixing agent resulted in a more improved texture effect than before. The fabric is heat-compressed by the press roller, so that the desired pattern can be easily formed on the silk fabric, thereby obtaining the effect of producing a variety of patterns and abundant quantities in a short time at a low price.

또한 상기 제5공정까지의 적합한 혼합비율 및 온도 조정에 의해 실크직물이 쉽게 구겨지는 것을 방지하게 되었으며 또한 물세탁도 가능하게 되었다.In addition, by adjusting the mixing ratio and temperature up to the fifth step, the silk fabric can be easily prevented from being wrinkled, and water washing is also possible.

Claims (8)

욕비(bath ratio) 1내지 4%로 하여 산성염료 및 미세에멀션화제(microemulsion)로 배합된 제1혼합물을 실크직물에 함침시키는 단계, 유연제(softners)와 상기 미세에멀션화제로 배합된 제2혼합물을 섭씨 10내지 50도의 온도범위로 제1배드에서 상기 실크직물에 함침시킨 후 맹글(mangle)기를 통하게 하는 단계, 고착제를 상기 실크직물에 함침시키는 단계, 상기 실크직물을 섭씨 100내지 140도의 온도범위에서 탠더기를 사용하여 탠더링(tendering)하는 단계, 및 상기 실크직물을 섭씨 100내지 180도의 온도범위에서 전기 도금된 드럼 프레스 로울러에 통하게 하는 단계로 이루어진 것을 특징으로 하는 실크직물의 염색방법.Impregnating a silk fabric with a first mixture of acid dyes and microemulsion at a bath ratio of 1 to 4%, and a second mixture of softeners and the microemulsion agent. Impregnating the silk fabric in a first bed at a temperature in the range of 10 to 50 degrees Celsius and then passing through a mangle, impregnating the silk fabric with a fixative, in the temperature range of 100 to 140 degrees Celsius Tendering by using a tender, and the silk fabric dyeing method comprising the step of passing through the electroplated drum press roller in a temperature range of 100 to 180 degrees Celsius. 제1항에있어서, 상기 미세에멀션화제는 양이온이고 PH6.0내지 5.0인 아미노작용기 폴리디메틸 실록산을 주성분으로 한 것임을 특징으로 하는 상기 염색방법.The dyeing method as claimed in claim 1, wherein the microemulsifier is a cation and is based on an amino functional polydimethyl siloxane having a pH of 6.0 to 5.0. 제1항에 있어서, 욕비가 2%이고 상기 제1배드의 온도는 섭씨 40도로 하며, 상기 탠더링시 온도는 섭씨 105도로하고, 상기 드럼 프레스 로울러에 가하는 온도는 섭씨 160도로 가하는 것을 특징으로 하는 상기 염색방법.The method of claim 1, wherein the bath ratio is 2% and the temperature of the first bed is 40 degrees Celsius, the temperature during the tendering is 105 degrees Celsius, the temperature applied to the drum press roller is characterized in that the addition of 160 degrees Celsius The dyeing method. 제1항에있어서, 상기 고착제는 양성이고 PH 8.5인 반응성 실리콘 탄성체, 디메틸 폴리실록산 및 유기 틴 화합물로 이루어진 에멀션화제인 것을 특징으로 하는 상기 염색방법.The dyeing method according to claim 1, wherein the fixing agent is an emulsifier comprising a reactive silicone elastomer, dimethyl polysiloxane, and an organic tin compound which is positive and has a pH of 8.5. 제1항에 있어서, 상기 드럼 프레스 로울러의 표면에 무늬모양이 프린트되어 있는 것을 특징으로 하는 상기 염색 방법.The dyeing method according to claim 1, wherein a pattern is printed on a surface of the drum press roller. 실크 직물에, 산성염료와 미세에멀션화제로 배합된 제1혼합물로서 상기 실크직물에 1차로 처리된 제1피막부, 유연제와 상기 미세에멀션화제로 배합된 제2혼합물로서 상기 실크직물에 2차 처리된 제2피막부, 및 고착제로서 상기 실크직물에 3차 처리된 제3피막부가 형성되어 있는 것을 특징으로 하는 염색된 실크직물.In the silk fabric, the first coating portion firstly blended with the acid dye and the microemulsifying agent, the first coating portion treated with the silk fabric, the second mixture blended with the softening agent and the microemulsifying agent, the second treatment with the silk fabric. A dyed silk fabric, characterized in that the second coating portion, and a third coating portion subjected to the tertiary treatment on the silk fabric as a fixing agent. 제6항에 있어서, 상기 미세에멀션화제는 양이온이고 PH6.0 내지 5.0인 아미노작용기 폴리디메틸 실록산을 주성분으로 한 것임을 특징으로 하는 실크직물.The silk fabric of claim 6, wherein the microemulsifier is a cation and is based on an amino functional polydimethyl siloxane having a pH of 6.0 to 5.0. 제6항에 있어서, 상기 고착제는 양이온이고 PH8.5인 반응성 실리콘 탄성체, 디메틸 폴리실록산 및 유기 틴 화합물로 이루어진 에멀션화제인 것을 특징으로 하는 실크직물.7. The silk fabric of claim 6 wherein said fixing agent is an emulsifier comprising a reactive silicone elastomer, dimethyl polysiloxane, and an organic tin compound that is cation and is PH8.5.
KR1019870004145A 1987-04-29 1987-04-29 Process for dyeing of silk fabric and silk fabric dyed from above process KR900001923B1 (en)

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