KR20220010953A - Tight clothing with excellent elasticity - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to tight clothing with excellent elasticity, and more specifically, to clothing made of a bias-cut fabric with good elasticity and a simple manufacturing step by using a structural property of the bias-cut fabric. The tight clothing with excellent elasticity of the present invention is composed of a blouse, pants, a T-shirt, and a skirt which are manufactured by cutting fabric in which a part rises and a part falls to form an intersection point (P) with weft yarn (WE) and warp yarn (WA) which are orthogonal to each other, and a width direction (W) matches a direction of the weft yarn (WE) into a cloth piece depending on each part of a body; and sewing the cut cloth piece. The cloth piece (50) constituting the clothing is formed by slantly cutting left and right directions (A) at a certain angle with respect to the width direction (W) of the fabric (1). Each cloth piece (50) is sewn to allow a direction of a diagonal line (D) connecting two intersections (P) to correspond to a maximal expansion requirement direction (DE) of the clothing. A sleeve, a trouser cuff, or a bottom part of the clothing are sewn in a bias-cut state, thereby removing bottom treatment of sewing and folding.

Description

Tight clothing with excellent elasticity

The present invention relates to a tight garment with excellent elasticity, and more particularly, to a garment made of a bias-cut fabric having good elasticity and a simple manufacturing process by using the structural characteristics of the bias-cut fabric.

Clothing includes men's and women's suits, school uniforms, jackets, vests, blouses, shirts, jeans, etc. When these clothes are worn to fit the wearer's body, they are beautiful and active.

However, clothes that are made to fit the body to the extent that the body line is exposed are often in vogue. These clothes are called 'tight clothes' to distinguish them from loose clothes. Such tight clothing is commonly seen in clothes mainly worn by young people, such as jackets, trousers, vests, blouses, jeans, and round tees. Recently, it has become fashionable for students to wear a tight-fitting uniform consisting of a jacket and trousers or a blouse.

Tight clothing is too tight on the body and greatly limits the wearer's movements and activities. Therefore, it can be frustrating and uncomfortable for active students. However, despite these inconveniences, young people prefer tight clothing because of the attractiveness of revealing their body shape. Also, tight clothing applies to special purpose clothing. For example, sportswear, riding clothes, cycle clothes, swimwear, work clothes, underwear, etc. reduce air resistance, prevent safety accidents, and improve the appearance of outerwear by adhering the clothes to the body. Even in this case, tight clothing has a problem in that the wearer's activity is reduced.

Therefore, there is a demand for the development of elastic clothing that can improve activity while maintaining the characteristics of tight clothing.

Conventionally, in order to increase the activity of tight clothing, a fabric with good elasticity was used. For example, the span fabric uses an elastic yarn with excellent elasticity to greatly improve the activity. However, fabrics such as spandex have disadvantages in that they are more expensive than general fabrics, are easily deformed by strong heat, and cannot be restored to their original state once stretched. For this reason, there is a problem in that the conventional tight clothes are expensive when worn for a long time, such as knees or elbows protrude, and the product life is short and expensive.

The present invention has been made to solve the problems according to the prior art, and the main object of the present invention is to greatly improve the activity while using a conventional general fabric instead of using an expensive fabric such as spandex, but with good elasticity. Rather, it is to provide clothing that can extend product life with excellent resilience.

The present invention is to provide a garment in which the wearer's activity is greatly improved by cutting and sewing the fabric fabric so that the maximum stretch direction of each piece of cloth constituting the garment coincides with the maximum stretch request direction of the garment using a general fabric fabric.

The present invention also provides a garment in which the hem treatment can be omitted by using the characteristics of the bias-cut fabric piece.

As a means for solving the above-mentioned problems, the tight garment with excellent elasticity according to the present invention is partially floating and partly descending so that the weft yarns (WE) and the warp yarns (WA) are orthogonal to each other to form an intersection (P). Blouse, trousers, T-shirt and In the garment consisting of a skirt,

The piece of cloth 50 constituting the garment is made by cutting the left and right direction (A) at a predetermined angle with respect to the width direction (W) of the fabric fabric (1), and each piece of cloth (50) has two intersections (P) ) is sewn so that the direction of the diagonal (D) connecting the garment coincides with the maximum stretch demand direction (DE) of the garment, but the cuffs, trousers, or hem of the garment are sewn in a bias-cut state, so that the cuffs, trousers, or hem are folded and sewn. It is characterized in that the hem treatment is omitted.

The left-right direction (A) of the bias-cut fabric piece is characterized in that it coincides with the horizontal direction (X) of the clothes.

The garment is sewn so that the directions of the warp (WA) or weft (WE) of the left and right pieces of fabric are perpendicular to each other about the central vertical axis, so that a symmetrical pattern is formed by the stripes of the warp (WA) around the central axis. characterized.

The clothing is characterized in that it is made to fit snugly to the body so that the wearer's body shape is exposed.

In the tight garment with excellent elasticity according to the present invention, the maximum stretch demand direction (DE) of the garment (eg, the horizontal direction (X) of the garment) crosses the intersection of the weft yarn and the warp of the fabric fabric in the diagonal (D) direction (i.e. .

In addition, the tight garment with excellent elasticity of the present invention has the effect of simplifying the manufacturing process because it is possible to omit the hem treatment of folding and sewing the cuffs, trousers, or ends.

The tight garment with excellent elasticity according to the invention has the effect of greatly improving the activity of the wearer by utilizing the structural characteristics of the fabric while using the same fabric as in the prior art without using expensive fabric.

The bias-cut fabric piece according to the present invention has the effect of keeping the cuffs, trousers, or ends of the clothes neatly because the fraying phenomenon does not occur.

1 is a conceptual plan view showing a conventional method of cutting a piece of cloth on a fabric fabric and the cutting method of the present invention;
2 is a cross-sectional view showing the structure of the weft and warp of a piece of cloth cut according to a conventional method;
3 is a front view showing a jacket manufactured according to a conventional method;
4 is a front view showing an example of a jacket manufactured according to the present method;
5 is a conceptual view showing the structure of the weft and warp of the bias-cut fabric piece according to the present invention;
6 is a plan view showing an embodiment of cutting a piece of cloth on a fabric according to the present method;
7 is a front view showing an example of the pants manufactured according to the present invention,
8 is a plan view showing another embodiment of cutting a piece of cloth on a fabric according to the present method;
9 and 10 are a front view and a rear view showing another example of the pants manufactured according to the present invention,
11 is a front view showing an example of a blouse manufactured according to the present invention;
12 is a rear view showing the bias cut lining of a jacket made in accordance with the present invention;
13 is a rear view showing a partially bias cut lining of a jacket made in accordance with the present invention;
14 is a front view and a rear view showing another example of a women's jacket manufactured according to the present invention;
15 is a front view and a rear view showing another example of a men's jacket manufactured according to the present invention;
16 is a front view and a rear view showing an example of jeans manufactured according to the present invention.

Hereinafter, a method for manufacturing a tight garment having excellent elasticity according to the present invention and a preferred embodiment of a tight garment having excellent elasticity manufactured using the method will be described.

In the following embodiments, a jacket, a blouse, and jeans will be described. However, the tight garment with excellent elasticity of the present invention is not limited to these garments, and may be applied to various types of garments such as vests, shirts, sportswear, work clothes, and swimwear. will be applicable.

In addition, 'tight clothes' mentioned in the examples below encompasses clothes designed by a designer or manufacturer to fit snugly on the body to reveal the wearer's body shape. Since these tight garments closely adhere to the body, they must be elastic to ensure the wearer's activity. In general, the direction of maximum stretch demand for tight clothes coincides with the left and right directions of the clothes. However, this maximum stretch demand direction may also vary depending on the type and use of clothes. Therefore, the maximum stretch request direction of the present invention is not limited only to the left and right direction of the clothes. In addition, the 'garment' of the present invention is not limited to only tight clothes.

The garment manufacturing method according to the present invention consists of cutting and sewing. Cutting is a process in which several pieces of fabric are cut according to a predetermined pattern to make the outer, lining, and core constituting the garment. At this time, the pattern (model or design) is different depending on the type of clothing and the body size of the wearer. Therefore, in the present invention, there is no limitation on the shape and size of the pattern. FIELD OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a method of cutting a piece of cloth from a cloth, and in particular it is closely related to a method of placing a piece of cloth (or pattern) on the cloth.

Next, sewing is to sew the fabric pieces of the outer material, the lining, or the core cut into a predetermined shape to make clothes. In general, the stitching is widely known, and the present invention does not place any limitation on the stitching. The present invention relates to a method of properly arranging and sewing fabric pieces, and in particular, is closely related to the arrangement direction of the bias-cut fabric pieces.

As will be described in detail below, a first aspect of the present invention is to bias-cut a piece of fabric constituting a garment. 'Bias cutting' refers to cutting the pattern or fabric piece at an angle in which the left and right directions do not coincide with the width direction of the fabric. Conventionally, when cutting a piece of cloth, the left and right directions of the piece of cloth coincide with the width direction of the fabric. In this way, cutting so that the left and right direction of the piece of cloth and the width direction of the fabric are identical is called 'parallel cutting' as opposed to bias cutting. A piece of fabric cut in parallel has the same structural characteristics as a fabric fabric. On the other hand, the bias-cut fabric piece has structurally different characteristics from the woven fabric. The present invention is to make a garment with excellent elasticity by using the structural characteristics of the bias-cut fabric piece.

A second aspect of the present invention provides a garment with improved activity by using a bias-cut fabric piece. If you make a garment out of a piece of bias-cut fabric, it is overly stretchy and tends to sag down. In particular, in the case of loose clothes, clothes made of bias-cut fabric have a severe tendency to sag. For this reason, the bias cut has not been applied to modern activewear such as jackets, blouses and jeans. In addition, there is a notion that bias cutting is more expensive and difficult to work than parallel cutting. The present invention is to make a modern activewear using a piece of fabric cut with bias, which has been rarely used so far. In particular, it is to provide a garment with excellent elasticity by reversely using the downward sagging characteristic, which was recognized as the biggest disadvantage of the bias-cut fabric piece.

A third aspect of the present invention is that when cutting or sewing the bias-cut fabric piece, the bias direction of the fabric piece forming the left and right sides of the garment is arranged to form a symmetrical structure and the elasticity of the garment is biased by cutting or sewing. Make sure your clothes are not warped. That is, the bias-cut fabric piece has different elasticity depending on the direction of the bias. In particular, even when the angle of the bias is 45 degrees, the elasticity tends to be biased depending on the material of the weft yarn and the warp yarn. Therefore, if both the outer fabric and the lining constituting the left and right sides of the garment are bias-cut and sewn in the same direction, the elasticity of the garment is deflected to one side and distorted or the fit is deteriorated.

As described above, the present invention is to provide a method for manufacturing a garment using a bias-cut fabric and a garment manufactured using the same. In particular, in recent years, tight clothes are in vogue, and tight clothes require an outer and lining with excellent elasticity. Conventionally, tight clothes were made by cutting elastic fabrics containing rubber or elastic yarns in parallel. However, these elastic fabrics are expensive and have poor durability, which increases product prices and shortens product lifespan.

The present invention manufactures a garment from a piece of fabric that is bias-cut from a general fabric yarn. Bias-cut fabric not only has excellent elasticity and durability, but is also very cheap compared to stretch fabrics. In addition, the bias-cut fabric pieces can solve various disadvantages seen in the conventional parallel cut fabric pieces, such as all loose, parted, or worn out.

Hereinafter, with reference to the accompanying drawings, it will be described in detail a preferred embodiment of the tight clothing excellent in elasticity in the present invention.

First, FIG. 1 is a conceptual plan view showing a state of cutting a piece of cloth to a fabric.

As shown, one fabric fabric 1 has a rectangular shape and has a width direction (W) and a length direction (L). In general, the longitudinal direction (L) of the fabric fabric (1) is longer than the width direction (W).

As shown in the enlarged view of FIG. 1 , the fabric fabric 1 has a structure in which weft (Weft: WE) and warp (Warp: WA) intersect at right angles. A woven fabric (textile fabric) refers to a fiber having a structure in which a weft (WE) and a warp (WA) are orthogonal to each other. These fabrics are distinguished from knitted goods, non woven fabrics, laces, and the like.

In order to maintain the interlace between the weft and the warp, the fabric repeats the ups and downs, in which a part of the weft or warp is floating and some is lowered. Accordingly, the weft yarn WE and the warp yarn WA intersect the intersecting point (stitch place:P) in the fabric fabric 1 . The number and location of this intersection (P) varies according to plain weave, twill weave, and runner weave. And the intersection (P) also forms a specific stripe on the fabric fabric (1).

For example, in plain weaves (tabby), warp (WA) and weft (WE) cross one another to form an intersection (P). Therefore, in plain weave, stripes are not formed by crossing points. On the other hand, twill weave has an asymmetric number of weft and warp yarns, so slanted ribs appear in the fabric. This oblique line is called the twill line. As such, the fabric may have various stripes depending on the way the weft and warp yarns fluctuate. However, in the present invention, a detailed description of such a stripe pattern is omitted.

However, in order to easily distinguish the bias-cut fabric piece 50 from the conventional parallel cut fabric piece 10 according to the present invention, only the inclination is indicated by a solid line in the drawing. Therefore, the conventional parallel-cut fabric 10 and clothes using the same will be expressed in a thick vertical stripe pattern (slanted direction). On the other hand, the bias-cut fabric piece 50 according to the present invention and the clothes using the same will be expressed in oblique stripes (in the oblique direction) of a predetermined angle. Therefore, in the case of plain weave, the pattern expressed in the drawing and the actual pattern may be expressed similarly, but if there is a ridge line or a pattern using a color thread, the stripe expressed in the drawing and the stripe seen in actual clothes may be different should understand

2, the structure of the weft yarn WE and the warp yarn WA of the fabric fabric 1 is conceptually shown. Here, the thickness of the weft yarn WE and the warp yarn WA is neglected. The two weft yarns WE and the warp yarns WA are orthogonal to each other to form a rectangular space R therein. This rectangular space (R) is a part that is not occupied by the weft and the warp (or the gap between the weft and the warp), so it is a part that is structurally easy to deform. And in the rectangular space R, a diagonal line D crossing the intersection P where the weft yarn WE and the warp WA intersect may be assumed. The diagonal line D is an invisible virtual line. At this time, two diagonal lines orthogonal to each other exist in the space R of one quadrangle, but in the present invention, only one diagonal line D is considered for convenience.

Referring back to FIG. 1 , the weft (WE) direction and the warp (WA) direction of the fabric fabric 1 coincide with the width direction (W) and the length direction (L) of the fabric fabric (1). However, the diagonal (D) direction of the fabric (1) intersects the width direction (W) and the length direction (L) of the fabric fabric (1) at a predetermined angle.

On the other hand, the warp yarn WA constituting the fabric fabric 1 is referred to as a 'warp yarn'. The warp yarn is made of a small elastic yarn to withstand the tension required when weaving the fabric. Therefore, there is little elasticity in the warp (WA) direction, that is, in the longitudinal direction (L) of the fabric fabric (1). Conventional parallel cutting prevents clothes from sagging by cutting so that the vertical direction (X) of the clothes coincides with the inclination direction by using the characteristics of the inclination. In contrast, the weft yarn (WE) is called a weft yarn or a book yarn, and since a large tension is not required in the weaving process, a relatively large elastic fiber is used. Therefore, the weft (WE) direction, that is, the width direction (W) of the fabric fabric (1) has greater elasticity than the length direction (L). Therefore, in the prior art, the weft direction was matched with the left and right directions of the clothes so that the elasticity of the clothes was secured as much as possible.

As such, the conventional method for manufacturing clothes is characterized by cutting and sewing the longitudinal direction of the fabric to match the vertical direction (X) of the clothes. That is, when cutting a piece of cloth, the left and right direction (A) of the piece of cloth (10) is cut to match the width direction (W) of the fabric fabric (1), and when sewing the piece of cloth, the left and right of the piece of cloth (10) Sew so that direction (A) coincides with the horizontal direction of the garment.

As shown in FIG. 1 , two pieces of fabric 10 and 50 are cut in one fabric 1 . One piece of fabric 10 located at the upper side is cut according to the conventional 'parallel cutting' method, and one piece of cloth 50 located at the lower side is cut according to the 'bias cutting' method of the present invention.

As shown, the left-right direction (A) of the parallel cut piece of fabric 10 coincides with the width direction (W) of the fabric fabric 1, and the vertical direction (B) of the piece of cloth 10 is the fabric. It coincides with the longitudinal direction (L) of the fabric (1). On the other hand, the left-right direction (A) and the vertical direction (B) of the bias-cut fabric piece 50 are inclined at a predetermined angle with respect to the width direction (W) and the length direction (L) of the fabric fabric (1). Here, the left and right directions (A) and the vertical direction (B) of the piece of cloth 10 are not determined by the shape of the piece of cloth, but are determined according to the direction in which the piece of cloth is positioned while the wearer is wearing it. That is, the left and right directions of the fabric pieces coincide with the horizontal direction of the clothes, and the vertical directions of the fabric pieces coincide with the vertical directions of the clothes. Also, in the present invention, "congruent" includes not only the two directions being on the same line, but also the two directions being parallel.

In addition, on the right side of FIG. 1, the pieces of cloth 10 and 50 separated from the fabric 1 are separately shown. Looking at the parallel cut fabric piece 10 shown above, the left and right directions (A) of the separated fabric pieces (10) coincide with the width direction (W) and weft (WE) directions of the fabric fabric (1). . That is, it can be seen that the separated piece of fabric 10 has the same structure as the fabric fabric 1 except that the size and shape are different. On the other hand, the left-right direction (A) of the bias-cut fabric piece 50 shown below does not coincide with the width direction (W) and the weft yarn (WE) direction of the fabric fabric 1 and is inclined at a certain angle. That is, it can be seen that the bias-cut fabric piece 50 is different from the fabric fabric 1 in size and shape as well as in the fabric structure.

3 is a front view showing an example of the jacket 100 manufactured according to the conventional method. The jacket 100 has a horizontal direction (X) and a vertical direction (Y) based on the direction of gravity. The left-right direction (A) of the piece of fabric 10 constituting the jacket 100 coincides with the horizontal direction (X) of the jacket 100 . That is, as seen in the enlarged view of the upper right, in the fabric piece 10 , the weft (WE) direction coincides with the horizontal direction (X) of the jacket 100 and the warp (WA) direction is the vertical direction of the jacket 100 . coincides with the direction (Y).

And it can be seen that the diagonal (D) direction connecting the intersection of the weft yarn and the warp is inclined at a certain angle with respect to the horizontal direction (X) of the jacket 100 .

Generally, garments tighten the torso, abdomen, arms, and legs inward. This tightening phenomenon is necessary to reveal the body shape as it is, but it limits the wearer's activity. Therefore, the garment requires sufficient elasticity to relieve this tightness. Therefore, the direction in which the wearer requires the most elasticity in clothes usually coincides with the horizontal direction (X) of the clothes.

That is, the maximum stretch demand direction (DE) of the garment coincides with the horizontal direction (X) of the garment. Therefore, in order to alleviate the tightening phenomenon in clothes, it is necessary to make the maximum stretch direction (E) of the piece of cloth coincide with the horizontal direction (X) of the clothes. However, in the conventional parallel cut fabric piece 10, the weft (WE) direction coincides with the maximum stretch request direction (DE) of the garment. Since the elasticity in the weft direction is determined by the material of the weft, there is always a limit to increasing the elasticity. In addition, rubber or elastic yarns, which are mainly used for weft yarns, have a disadvantage in that the shape of clothes is deformed due to loss of restoring force over time.

4 is a front view showing an example of the jacket 150 made of the bias-cut fabric piece 50 according to the present invention.

As shown, the diagonal (D) direction of the bias-cut fabric piece 50 coincides with the horizontal direction (X) of the jacket 150 . That is, the maximum stretch direction (E) of the bias-cut fabric piece (50) coincides with the maximum stretch request direction (DE) of the garment (150). The stretch in the diagonal (D) direction is due to structural deformation of the fabric. Therefore, regardless of the material of the weft or warp, it is always the maximum stretching direction (E). In this way, the jacket 150 according to the present invention is cut and sewn so that the maximum stretch direction (E) of the piece of cloth 50 coincides with the maximum stretch demand direction (DE) of the clothes.

The structure of the weft yarn WE and the warp yarn WA of the bias-cut fabric piece 50 according to the present invention will be described in detail with reference to FIG. 5 .

As shown, in the bias-cut fabric piece 50, when tension in the diagonal direction (D) is applied, the rectangular space (R) surrounded by the weft yarn (WE) and the warp yarn (WA) is transformed into a diamond shape. increases This is due to the structural characteristics of the rectangular space (R) regardless of the material of the weft and warp yarns. Accordingly, the elasticity in the diagonal (D) direction is always greater than that of the weft yarn and the warp direction. For example, when the elasticity of the weft yarn and the warp yarn is changed and the elasticity increases, the deformation of the rectangular space R also increases in proportion to it, so that the diagonal D direction is always the maximum stretching direction E. In addition, since the deformed diamond shape has the elasticity of the weft and the warp as well as the restoring force according to the structural characteristics of the quadrangle, the elasticity does not deteriorate even after the period of use. In this way, the present invention is to use the structural characteristics of the bias-cut fabric piece so that the maximum stretch direction (E) of the fabric piece coincides with the maximum stretch request direction (DE) of the garment.

On the other hand, the bias angle of the bias-cut fabric piece 50, that is, the angle between the left-right direction (A) and the width direction (W) of the fabric fabric 1 is determined by the inclination angle of the diagonal line (D). For example, in the case of plain weave, since the square space R is square, the inclination angle of the diagonal line D crossing two intersections of the square space R is 45 degrees. Therefore, the inclination angle between the left and right direction (A) of the piece of cloth (50) and the width direction (W) of the fabric fabric (1) should be cut to be 45 degrees. By doing so, it is possible to match the diagonal (D) direction of the bias-cut fabric piece (50) to the maximum stretch required direction (DE) of the garment.

And in the case of twill, since the rectangular space R is rectangular, the inclination angle between the left-right direction A of the piece 50 and the width direction W of the fabric fabric 1 is less than 45 degrees or more than 45 degrees will become Therefore, the inclination angle between the left and right direction (A) of the fabric piece (50) and the width direction (W) of the fabric fabric (1) must be cut to be less than 45 degrees or more than 45 degrees diagonal (D) of the fabric piece 50 The direction can be matched with the maximum stretch required direction (DE) of the garment. As such, the bias cutting in the present invention is to match the maximum stretch direction (E) of the piece of cloth 50, that is, the diagonal (D) direction, with the maximum stretch request direction (DE) of the clothes.

As described above, since the bias cutting according to the present invention has very good elasticity, the pattern used for the conventional parallel cutting cannot be used as it is. Therefore, the pattern must be newly created or modified. In addition, in the case of bias cutting according to the present invention, it is difficult to cut into sheets because of good elasticity. Therefore, it is recommended to use a computer-controlled automatic cutting machine after stacking and compressing several sheets of fabric. In addition, when sewing the bias-cut fabric piece 50 according to the present invention, it is better to use a sewing machine in which the teeth attached to the needle plate and the needle bar presser foot move at the same time than a general sewing machine in which only the teeth attached to the needle plate move. However, since this point will be easily understood by those skilled in the art, detailed description thereof will be omitted.

Next, Figure 6 is a plan view showing an embodiment of the bias cutting method according to the present invention.

As shown, a plurality of pieces of fabric 50 (or patterns) capable of making two pants are arranged on one fabric 1 . At this time, the fabric fabric 1 has a width direction (W) and a length direction (L) in the shape of a rectangle. The weft yarns WE and the warp yarns WA of the fabric 1 have a structure that intersects at right angles, and a diagonal D direction is formed at the intersection P of the two weft yarns WE and the warp yarn WA. do.

In this embodiment, the piece of cloth 50 disposed on the fabric fabric 1 has a left-right direction (A) and an up-down direction (B). The piece of cloth 50 is inclined at a predetermined angle with respect to the width direction (W) of the fabric fabric (1) in the left and right direction (A). In addition, the plurality of pieces of fabric 50 disposed on the fabric fabric 1 are inclined in the same direction, that is, in the upper-right direction, in the up-down direction (B). That is, the fabric fabric 1 has four front plates (ⓐ, ⓑ, A, B) and four back plates (ⓐ, ⓑ, A, B) that can make two trousers, and all the fabrics Sculptures are arranged inclined to the right.

Therefore, when making pants by sewing the corresponding two front plates and two back plates (indicated by dotted lines), as shown in the right side of FIG. 6 and FIG. 7 , the left and The direction of the inclination WA of the piece of cloth on the right is also inclined in the upper-left direction. Accordingly, in the drawing, the stripes of the pants 200 are diagonally expressed in either direction.

On the other hand, FIG. 8 is a plan view showing another embodiment of the bias cutting method according to the present invention.

As shown, a plurality of pieces of fabric 50 (or patterns) capable of making two pants on one fabric 1 are arranged. The piece of cloth 50 is inclined at a predetermined angle to the width direction (W) of the fabric fabric (1) in the left and right direction (A). At this time, among the fabric pieces 50 disposed on the fabric fabric 1, the upper ones of the fabric pieces 50 are inclined in the upper left direction, and the lower ones are in the upper right direction. is inclined At this time, the fabric piece 50 on the upper part and the fabric piece 50 on the lower part are symmetrical left and right fabric pieces 50 to constitute one pants 250 and 300 at a rotation angle of 90 degrees. rotated and placed.

Therefore, when the pants are made by sewing the corresponding two front plates and two back plates (indicated by dotted lines), as shown in the right side of FIG. 8 and FIGS. 9 and 10 , one pants 250 and 300 The directions of the inclinations WA of the left and right pieces of fabric that are symmetrical to constitute are inclined in opposite directions. Accordingly, in the drawing, the oblique stripes of the pants 250 and 300 are perpendicular to the center of the pants to form a V-shaped "∨" or mountain "∧"-shaped stripe.

As in FIG. 7 , when the left and right sides of the pants 200 are biased in the same direction (the direction of the arrow indicates the oblique direction), the pants may be twisted because the elasticity is biased in both the left and right sides in the same direction. . That is, the warp yarn of the fabric fabric 1 has little elasticity, but since the weft yarn is made of a material having better elasticity than the warp yarn, the elasticity in the weft direction is always greater than the elasticity in the warp direction. Therefore, if the left and right sides of the trousers 200 are arranged so that both the inclination (WA) directions face the same direction, the trousers are twisted because the elasticity of the trousers is biased toward the weft direction.

On the other hand, as in FIG. 9 , when the inclination (WA) directions of the left and right portions of the pants 250 are arranged to face opposite directions, the left and right inclination directions (indicated by arrows) of the pants 250 are ) is symmetrical, so the bias in elasticity is canceled out. Therefore, since the overall elasticity is not biased in either direction, it is not twisted and the fit is improved. On the other hand, FIG. 10 shows another example of the trousers 300 according to the present invention. In contrast to the trousers 250 shown in FIG. 9 , the bias of the piece of fabric 50 disposed on the left and right sides direction is in the opposite direction.

At this time, even if the bottom of the trousers made of the bias-cut fabric 50 is not hem-treated (folded and sewn at the hem), the crotch does not loosen and becomes clean. Therefore, in the case of clothes made of only outer material, such as blouses, jeans, and T-shirts, the sleeves, trousers, or the bottom of the top are sewn in their original cut state without hem treatment.

On the other hand, as shown in FIGS. 9 and 10 , the pants 250 form a V-shaped stripe with the left and right oblique directions (thick solid line direction) downward in the middle. On the other hand, in the pants 300 shown in FIG. 10 , the left and right oblique directions (thick solid line direction) form a mountain “∧”-shaped stripe toward the top of the center. This pattern can be expressed as it is in actual clothes because the warp is generally thicker than the weft. In this way, the present invention can express a V "∨" shape or a mountain "∧" pattern by making the bias direction of the fabric pieces 50 disposed on the left and right sides of the clothes perpendicular to the center of the vertical axis.

As such, the present invention can not only prevent distortion by making the left and right bias directions of the clothes reverse, but also express the beautiful patterns of "∨" and "∧". Until now, such patterns could not be expressed using only woven fabrics in trousers or jackets. The bias cutting according to the present invention is very effective not only to manufacture clothes with excellent elasticity, but also to pioneer a new striped fashion.

Next, Figure 11 shows a blouse 350 according to an embodiment of the present invention. The blouse 350 is made of an outer material. The blouse 350 is designed to reveal the wearer's body type. The blouse 350 is made by sewing a bias-cut fabric piece 50 . As shown, the horizontal direction (X) of the blouse coincides with the diagonal direction (D) of the piece of fabric. Therefore, the maximum stretch direction (E) of the piece of cloth coincides with the maximum stretch request direction (DE) of the blouse. Therefore, the blouse 350 is tightened to reveal the wearer's body shape, but has excellent elasticity, so there is no feeling of stuffiness and freedom of activity. In addition, even in the case of the blouse 350, the left and right bias directions of the clothes are reversed to prevent distortion as well as express the symmetrical patterns of "∨" and "∧".

Clothing consists of an outer material, a lining, and an interlining. The lining keeps the outer silhouette of the garment with a warming effect and prevents see-through. The wick is put on the collar, shoulder, chest, etc. of the jacket to improve the silhouette of the clothes and to improve the physical performance of the clothes, such as torsional rigidity and bending rigidity. For a jacket, for example, the outer material, the lining and the wick are all used. However, trousers consist only of outer and lining. Blouse and jeans are made of outer material only.

Therefore, in the present invention, the bias cutting can be appropriately used according to the type and shape of the clothes. That is, in the case of blouses and jeans, it is made of only the bias-cut outer fabric. In the case of a jacket or trousers, it is made of a bias-cut outer and a bias-cut lining, or includes all of the bias-cut outer fabric, lining and wick. In addition, in the case of a jacket or pants, it may be made of a bias-cut outer and parallel-cut lining, or may be made of a bias-cut outer, parallel-cut lining and wick. In addition, it may be made of a parallel-cut outer and bias-cut lining, or a parallel-cut outer, bias-cut lining and wick.

12 shows an example of a bias-cut lining 400 according to the present invention. The bias-cut lining 400 is superimposed on the inside of the jacket 150 together with the outer lining and sewn. The lining 400 is designed to fit the body shape of the wearer. The tight lining 400 is made by sewing a bias-cut fabric piece 50 . The horizontal direction (X) of the lining 400 coincides with the diagonal (D) direction of the piece of cloth. Accordingly, the maximum stretch direction (E) of the piece of fabric coincides with the maximum stretch request direction (DE) of the lining. Therefore, the lining 400 is tightened in close contact with the wearer's body when worn, but since the maximum stretch direction (E) of the piece of cloth coincides with the maximum stretch demand direction (DE) of the lining, there is no feeling of stuffiness and activity is free. In particular, the lining 400 can provide a tight jacket because the wearer's body shape is well exposed when the outer material is bias-cut. Conventional parallel-cut linings have poor elasticity, and thus not only do not properly reveal the body shape, but also greatly restrict the wearer's activity. However, if the lining 400 according to the present invention is applied to the inside of the parallel-cut outer fabric, a jacket with good elasticity can be provided by bias cutting the lining in contact with the body while maintaining the silhouette of the clothes by parallel cutting.

On the other hand, Figure 13 shows another embodiment of the bias-cut lining 500 according to the present invention. As shown, the lining 500 is divided into a back plate part 310 , a sleeve part 320 , a waist part 330 , and a chest part. In general, the back part 310 and the sleeve part 320 require more elasticity than the waist part 330 or the chest part. Accordingly, the lining of the back plate 310 and the sleeve 320 is sufficiently stretchable in the horizontal direction (X) by using the bias-cut fabric piece 50 to increase the activity. On the other hand, the waist part 330 sewn under the back plate part 310 uses a piece of fabric cut in parallel as in the prior art to reduce elasticity in the left and right directions so that the silhouette of the waist comes to life.

At this time, when cutting the linings of the backing part 310 and the sleeve part 320 , the bias angle of the cloth piece varies depending on the shape of the rectangular space R composed of the two weft threads WE and the warp WA. . For example, when the square space R is square, the diagonal line D is inclined at 45 degrees with respect to the weft direction WE, and when the square space R is rectangular, the diagonal line D is the weft yarn ( WE) is inclined less than 45 degrees with respect to the direction. At this time, if the diagonal (D) direction is 45 degrees, there is a slight difference depending on the material of the weft and warp, but the stretchability in the left-right direction (A) or the up-down direction (B) of the piece of cloth is relatively the same.

However, when the direction of the diagonal (D) is less than 45 degrees (or more than 45 degrees), the elasticity in the diagonal (D) direction is somewhat lowered, and at the same time, the deviation of elasticity in the left and right directions (A) and up and down (B) directions of the fabric piece will arise That is, when the direction of the diagonal line (D) is less than 45 degrees, since the influence of the inclination is greater, the elasticity in the vertical direction (B) of the piece of cloth is further deteriorated. Accordingly, the elasticity of the lining can be appropriately adjusted by using the deviation of the elasticity of the fabric piece according to the bias angle. For example, since the lining of the sleeve part 320 requires a lot of elasticity in the horizontal direction (X), it is preferable to use a piece of cloth having a bias angle of 45 degrees. On the other hand, the lining of the back plate 310 is required to be stretchable in the horizontal direction (X), and at the same time, it is preferable that elasticity is limited in order to prevent sagging in the vertical direction (Y). Therefore, in this case, it is better to use a piece of cloth with a bias angle of less than 45 degrees. As such, the present invention can prevent the clothes from sagging downward while maintaining the elasticity of the clothes by appropriately using several pieces of fabric having different bias angles.

14 shows another embodiment of a women's jacket 600 manufactured according to the present invention. In the women's jacket 600, the waist portion 610 and the sleeve portion 620, which have a lot of movement, use a bias-cut fabric piece 50 to have good elasticity, and the front plate 630 and the back plate with less movement ( 640) by using a piece of fabric 10 cut in parallel, while having excellent elasticity, the clothes look good.

And, Figure 15 shows another embodiment of the jacket 650 for men manufactured according to the present invention. This men's jacket 650 is made of a bias cut piece of fabric 50 . The men's jacket 650 is sewn by arranging and sewing the bias-cut fabric pieces 50 that form the left and right portions with respect to the central vertical axis so that the inclination (WA) directions are opposite to each other. As described above, by reversing the directions of the left and right bias-cut fabric pieces 50, the elasticity is excellent and the elasticity is not deflected, so that the wear is not distorted and the wearing comfort is improved. At this time, since the pocket portion 660 may droop downward, it is preferable to use a piece of fabric cut in parallel.

16 shows an example of jeans 700 manufactured according to the present invention. As shown, in the jeans 700, a hip portion 710 and a leg portion 730 are divided vertically. In the jeans 700, the hip part 710 with a lot of movement uses a bias-cut fabric piece 50 to have good elasticity, and the leg part 730 with relatively little movement uses a parallel cut fabric piece 10. By using and sewing, it has excellent elasticity and good appearance. In addition, the hip portion 710 of the jeans 700 is arranged so that the directions of the left and right bias-cut fabric pieces 50 are opposite to each other about the central vertical axis, so that no distortion occurs.

In addition, the knee part 750 with a lot of movement among the leg parts 730 uses a separately bias-cut fabric piece 50 to improve elasticity and durability so that the knee part does not protrude even after long use. Conversely, the pocket portion 760, which tends to sag down, and the belt portion 770, which should tightly wrap the waist, are prevented from sagging or stretching by using the parallel-cut fabric piece 10.

In addition, in the bias-cut fabric piece 50 according to the present invention, since the weft yarn and the warp yarn are entangled in a net shape, unraveling does not occur. Therefore, even if the sleeves, trousers, or the lower end of the upper part of the garment made of the bias-cut fabric 50 are not hem-treated (folded and sewn), the hem does not come loose and becomes clean. Therefore, in the case of garments made of only outer material such as blouses, jeans, and T-shirts, if the sleeves, trousers, or the bottom of the top are sewn in the original cut state without hemming, the work will not only be simple, but it will be possible to create a new type of clothing. do.

As described above, the present invention biases cutting so that the diagonal (D) direction crossing the intersection of the weft and the warp when cutting the fabric fabric (1) coincides with the horizontal direction (X), which is the maximum stretch request direction (DE) of the clothes It provides clothing with excellent activity while revealing the wearer's body shape by sewing.

In addition, the present invention prevents the clothes from sagging down by appropriately combining the bias cutting and the conventional parallel cutting in consideration of the elasticity required for each part of the clothes, thereby improving the appearance of clothes.

Since the bias-cut lining according to the present invention has sufficient elasticity without separately wrinkling, cumbersome wrinkling can be omitted.

In addition, the conventional parallel-cut fabric pieces frequently unraveled at the ends or buttonholes of finished products. kept clean

In addition, the clothes manufactured by the conventional method lack elasticity, so that the seam line opens when worn or washed. It is possible to solve quality problems such as tearing of the stitched part without this.

In addition, since the clothes using the bias-cut fabric pieces according to the present invention can express various stripes depending on the direction in which the bias-cut fabric pieces are arranged, the effect of creating a new design beyond the conventional generalized pattern in terms of design there is

In the above, although described with reference to preferred embodiments of the present invention, those skilled in the art can variously modify and change the present invention within the scope without departing from the spirit and scope of the present invention described in the claims below. You will understand that it can be done.

1: Textile fabric 10: Parallel cut cloth
50: bias cut fabric piece WE: weft
WA : Slope A : Left and right direction of the piece of cloth
B : Up and down direction of the piece of cloth D : Diagonal
DE : Maximum stretch demanding direction of the garment E : Maximum stretch direction of the fabric piece
L : Length direction of fabric fabric W : Width direction of fabric fabric
R : Rectangular space X : Horizontal direction of clothes
Y : vertical direction of clothes

Claims (5)

The weft yarn (WE) and the warp yarn (WA) are orthogonal to each other to form an intersection point (P), some are knitted and some are set down, and the width direction (W) of the weft yarn (WE) coincides with the direction of the weft yarn (WE). In a garment consisting of a blouse, pants, T-shirt, and skirt made by cutting a piece of fabric suitable for the shape of each part of the body and sewing a plurality of cut pieces of fabric,
The garment is made of a piece of fabric 50 that is bias-cut with respect to the width direction (W) of the fabric fabric (1) in the left and right direction (A) at a predetermined angle, and a diagonal line (D) connecting the two intersection points (P) Sew so that the direction of the garment coincides with the maximum stretch demand direction (DE) of the garment, but the cuffs, trousers, or hem of the garment are sewn in a bias-cut state, thereby omitting the folding and stitching hem treatment. tight clothing. The method of claim 1,
Tight clothing with excellent elasticity, characterized in that the left and right direction (A) of the bias-cut fabric piece (50) coincides with the horizontal direction (X) of the clothing. 3. The method of claim 2,
The garment is sewn so that the warp (WA) or weft (WE) directions of the left and right pieces of fabric 50 on the center vertical axis are orthogonal to each other. Tight clothing with excellent elasticity, characterized in that it is formed. 4. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 3,
The clothing is tight clothing with excellent elasticity, characterized in that it is made to fit snugly on the body to reveal the wearer's body shape. 5. The method of claim 4,
The garment is a tight garment with excellent elasticity, characterized in that it is made of only the outer material without a lining.

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