KR100895888B1 - Bias cutting trousers - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to pants, and more particularly to pants having excellent elasticity by using the structural characteristics of the bias-cut fiber.

The pants according to the present invention are organized in such a way that the weft yarns WE and the warp yarns WA are orthogonal to each other to form an intersection point P, and a portion thereof is laid down and the width direction W thereof is the weft yarns WE. In the pants made by sewing a plurality of pieces of fabric cut after cutting the fabric fabric matching the direction with a piece of cloth for each part of the body,

The pants are divided into hips and legs; The hip part is made of a fabric piece 50 biased to the left and right direction (A) inclined at an angle with respect to the width direction (W) of the fabric fabric 1, the diagonal (D) connecting two intersection points (P) Sewing is made so that the direction of the garment coincides with the maximum stretching direction DE of the garment; The leg part is made of a piece of cloth 10 parallel cut so that the left and right directions (A) correspond to the width direction (W) of the fabric fabric 1, the direction of the diagonal (D) connecting the two intersection points (P) The garment is characterized in that it is made by sewing inclined at a predetermined angle with the maximum stretching demand direction (DE).

Bias, apparel, textile, fabric, silhouette, weft, warp

Description

Pants {BIAS CUTTING TROUSERS}

The present invention relates to pants, and more particularly to pants having excellent elasticity and circular restoring force by using the structural properties of the bias-cut fiber.

Clothes include men's and women's suits, school uniforms, jackets, vests, blouses, shirts, jeans, and many other types and types of clothing, including southern, t-shirts, round tees, sweaters, skirts, and coats. These clothes are beautiful and active when worn according to the wearer's body.

However, clothing made to fit the body so that the body line is revealed is often popular. These garments are called 'tight' garments, separate from loose ones. Such tight clothing is commonly seen in young people's clothing such as jackets, pants, vests, blouses, jeans, and round tees. In recent years, it has become popular for students to wear school uniforms that consist of jackets, pants, or blouses.

Tight clothing tightens the body too much, greatly limiting the wearer's movements and activities. This can be frustrating and uncomfortable for active students. However, despite these inconveniences, young people prefer tight clothing because of their attractiveness. Tight garments also apply to special purpose garments. For example, sportswear, horse riding clothes, cycling clothes, swimwear, work clothes, underwear, etc., the clothes close to the body to reduce the resistance of the air, prevent safety accidents and improve the appearance of the outerwear. Even in such a case, the tight clothing has a problem that the wearer's activity falls.

Therefore, there is a demand for the development of elastic clothes that can improve the activity while maintaining the characteristics of the tight clothes.

In the past, good stretch fabric was used to increase the activity of tight clothing. For example, the span fabrics use elastic yarns excellent in elasticity to greatly improve their activity. However, fabrics such as span are more expensive than ordinary fabric fabrics and are easily deformed by strong heat, and once stretched, they cannot be restored to their original state. For this reason, the conventional tight clothing has a problem that the knees or elbows stick out when worn for a long time, and the dressing is not good and the product life is short and expensive.

The present invention has been made to solve the problems according to the prior art, the main object of the present invention is to improve the activity significantly while using a conventional general textile fabric instead of using a good stretch but expensive fabrics such as span Rather, it provides pants that can extend product life with excellent resilience.

The present invention is to provide a pants that greatly improved the activity of the wearer by cutting and sewing the fabric fabric so that the maximum stretch direction of each piece of cloth constituting the garment using the normal fabric fabric to match the maximum stretch direction of the garment.

In addition, the present invention to increase the elasticity of the garment by appropriately using a bias-cut cloth piece, while maintaining the silhouette of the garment, and to prevent warping and to produce beautiful stripes such as '∨' or '∧' It is to provide a method and pants manufactured using the same.

As a means for solving the above problems, the pants according to the present invention is organized so that the weft (WE) and the warp (WA) is orthogonal to each other to form an intersection point (P) is partly floated and partly settled down and its width The direction (W) is in the pants made by sewing a plurality of fabric pieces cut after cutting the fabric fabric matching the direction of the weft (WE) to the shape of each part of the body,

The pants are divided into hips and legs; The hip part is made of a piece of cloth biased to the left and right direction (A) inclined at an angle with respect to the width direction (W) of the fabric fabric, the direction of the diagonal (D) connecting the two intersections (P) is the maximum of the garment It is made by sewing to match the stretch demand direction (DE); The leg part is made of a piece of cloth cut parallel to the width direction (W) of the fabric fabric in parallel with the right and left (A), the direction of the diagonal (D) connecting the two intersections (P) is the maximum stretch demand of the garment Characterized in that made by sewing inclined at a predetermined angle with the direction (DE).

The knee portion of the leg portion is characterized in that composed of bias cut cloth.

The butt portion is characterized in that the inclined (WA) direction of the bias cut fabric pieces arranged on the left and right about the vertical axis in the center perpendicular to each other to form a symmetrical pattern.

Pocket portion and belt portion formed in the hip portion is characterized in that consisting of a parallel cut piece of cloth.

Trousers according to another embodiment of the present invention, the weft yarn (WE) and the inclination (WA) is orthogonal to each other to form a cross point (P) part of the floating and organized in the form of falling down and the width direction (W) is In the pants made by weaving fabrics matching the direction of the weft (WE) with a piece of cloth for each part of the body, and then sewing a plurality of cut pieces of fabric,

The pants are divided into hips and legs; The hip part is composed of a piece of fabric cut parallel to the left and right direction (A) with respect to the width direction (W) of the fabric fabric, the direction of the diagonal (D) connecting the two intersections (P) is the maximum stretch demand of the garment It is made by sewing inclined at a predetermined angle with the direction (DE), the leg portion is composed of a piece of cloth biased biased to the left and right direction (A) at a predetermined angle with respect to the width direction (W) of the fabric fabric, two intersections ( It is characterized in that the sewing made so that the direction of the diagonal line (D) connecting P) coincides with the maximum stretching demand direction (DE) of the garment.

In addition, the hem of the leg portion is characterized in that it is not folded (stuck hem treatment).

In the present invention, the left and right directions (A) of the fabric pieces are biased to be inclined at a predetermined angle with respect to the width direction (W) of the fabric fabric, but the top and bottom of the left and right fabric pieces are symmetrical to form one garment Direction B is cut orthogonal to each other, and the bias-cut cloth is sewn so that the diagonal direction D connecting two intersection points P coincides with the maximum stretching demand direction DE of the garment, one It is characterized by sewing so that the directions of the warp yarn WA or the weft yarn WE of the left and right symmetrical fabrics to be symmetrical to constitute the clothing of the clothing is orthogonal to each other.

In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the direction of the diagonal (D) coincides with the maximum stretching direction (E) of the biased cut piece.

The direction of the diagonal (D) is inclined at a predetermined angle with respect to the width direction (W) of the fabric fabric and coincides with the left and right directions (A) of the bias cut fabric.

The angle between the left and right direction A of the fabric piece and the width direction W of the fabric piece coincides with the angle between the weft yarn WE and the diagonal line D of the fabric piece.

The angle between the left and right directions A of the fabric pieces and the width direction W of the fabric fabric is 45 degrees or less than 45 degrees.

The left and right directions A of the bias cut fabric pieces are sewn to match the horizontal direction X of the garment.

The biased cut piece forms all or part of the outer or lining of the pants.

According to the present invention, the pants have a diagonal stretching direction (ie, maximum stretching direction) in which the maximum stretching demand direction (DE) of the trousers (eg, the horizontal direction (X) of the trousers) crosses the intersection point of the weft and the warp of the fabric fabric. After biasing the fabric pieces to match the shape of each part of the body to match (E)), the maximum stretch direction (E) of the fabric pieces is the horizontal direction (X) of the pants (ie, the maximum stretch request direction ( Sewing to match the DE)) to manufacture the garment is excellent elasticity has the effect of ensuring the activity of the wearer.

Pants according to the present invention, there is an effect that can greatly improve the activity of the wearer by utilizing the structural characteristics of the fabric fabric, while using the same fabric fabrics without using expensive fabrics made of excellent elastic yarn.

In addition, the biased fabric cut according to the present invention has the effect of preventing the loosening phenomenon to maintain the edge of the sewn outer or lining. In addition, in the case of the existing tight clothing that was not elastic, when the external force is applied during wearing or washing, a phenomenon occurs in the sewn seam line portion, but the pants of the present invention do not occur in the seam line portion. The quality of the product can be improved.

In addition, in the conventional pants that had no elasticity, the work process was complicated and the silhouette of the clothes did not survive because the extra pleats such as wrinkles should be given to give elasticity, but according to the present invention, the pants have excellent elasticity and thus wrinkles There is no need to give, the process is simple and the silhouette of the clothes is revived.

Hereinafter, a method for manufacturing pants according to the present invention and preferred embodiments of the pants manufactured using the same will be described.

In the following embodiments, a jacket (jackjet), blouse, jeans will be described, but the method of manufacturing the garment of the present invention and the garment manufactured using the same are not limited to such garments, but various kinds of vests, shirts, sportswear, work clothes, swimwear, and the like. The same applies to the kind of clothing.

In addition, the term 'tight clothing' referred to in the following embodiments encompasses clothes designed by the designer or manufacturer to fit the body to reveal the wearer's body shape. These tight garments are closely attached to the body and must be elastic to ensure the wearer's activity. In general, the tightest stretch direction of a tight garment coincides with the left and right directions of the garment. However, this maximum stretch direction may also vary depending on the type and use of the clothes. Therefore, the maximum stretching demand direction of the present invention is not limited only to the left and right direction of the garment. In addition, the "clothing" of the present invention is not limited to only tight clothing.

The manufacturing method of the pants according to the present invention consists of cutting and sewing. Cutting is the process of cutting the pieces of fabric that make up a garment according to a predetermined pattern. The pattern (model or design) depends on the type of clothing and the body size of the wearer. Therefore, the present invention does not place any limitation on the shape and size of the pattern. The present invention relates to a method of cutting a piece of fabric from a fabric fabric, and in particular closely related to a method of placing a piece of fabric (or pattern) on a fabric fabric.

Subsequently, sewing is sewn into pieces of cloth of the outer fabric, lining or wick cut into a predetermined shape to make clothes. In general, lockstitch is widely known, and the present invention does not impose any restriction on the lockstitch. BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a method of properly arranging and sewing a piece of cloth, in particular closely related to the direction of placement of a biased piece of cloth.

As will be described in detail below, the first aspect of the present invention is to bias the fabric pieces constituting the pants. 'Bias cutting' refers to cutting inclined at a certain angle rather than the width direction of the woven fabric of the pattern or fabric pieces. Conventionally, when cutting the fabric pieces, the left and right directions of the fabric pieces coincide with the width direction of the fabric fabric. As such, the cutting to match the widthwise direction of the fabric and the width direction of the fabric piece is referred to as a 'parallel cutting' as compared to the bias cutting. Parallel cut fabric pieces have the same structural properties as fabric fabrics. On the other hand, bias cut fabric pieces have different structural characteristics from fabric fabrics. The present invention is to make a garment excellent in elasticity by using the structural characteristics of the bias cut fabric pieces.

A second aspect of the present invention is to provide pants with improved activity using a bias cut fabric piece. When the outer fabric of the pants is made with a bias cut fabric, the elastic tends to be drooping down. In particular, in the case of loose clothes, the clothes made from bias-cut fabrics are drooping down. For this reason, the bias foundation has not been applied to modern workwear such as jackets, blouses and jeans. In addition, the Bias Foundation had widespread stereotypes that were expensive and difficult to work with. The present invention is to make a garment by using a bias cut fabric pieces that are rarely utilized until now. In particular, it is to provide a garment with excellent elasticity by using the sagging structure characteristic reversely recognized as the biggest disadvantage of the bias cut fabric.

According to the third aspect of the present invention, when cutting or sewing the biased pieces of cloth, the elasticity of the clothes is deflected by arranging and cutting or sewing the bias directions of the pieces of cloth forming the left and right sides of the clothes to form a symmetrical structure. Do not twist the clothes. That is, the bias-cut cloth pieces vary in elasticity depending on the direction of the bias. In particular, even when the bias angle is 45 degrees, elasticity tends to be deflected depending on the material of the weft and the warp. Therefore, when both the outer fabric and the lining constituting the left side and the right side of the garment are biased and sewn in the same direction, the elasticity of the garment is deflected to either side, and it becomes warped or wears off.

As described above, the present invention is to provide a method for manufacturing pants using a bias cut and a pants manufactured using the same. In particular, recently, tight clothing has become a big trend, and tight clothing needs an excellent outer fabric and lining. Conventionally, the elastic fabric containing rubber yarn or elastic yarn was cut in parallel to prepare a tight garment. However, these stretch fabrics are expensive and weak in durability, which leads to an increase in product prices and shortened product lifespan, as well as various quality deterioration factors.

The present invention manufactures the pants with a piece of cloth biased by cutting the normal woven yarn. Bias-cut fabrics not only provide excellent stretch and durability, but are also very cheap compared to stretch fabrics. In addition, the bias-cut cloth piece can solve various disadvantages found in the conventional parallel cut piece of cloth such as loosening or breaking up or bridging.

Hereinafter, with reference to the accompanying drawings will be described in detail a preferred method of manufacturing the pants according to the present invention and pants manufactured using the same.

First, Figure 1 is a conceptual plan view showing a state of cutting a piece of cloth on the fabric fabric.

As shown, one woven fabric 1 has a rectangular shape and has a width direction W and a length direction L. As shown in FIG. In general, the longitudinal direction (L) of the woven fabric (1) is longer than the width direction (W).

As shown in the enlarged view of FIG. 1, the textile fabric 1 has a structure in which weft WE and warp WA are intersected at right angles. Woven fabric (textile fabric) refers to a fiber having a tissue orthogonal weft (WE) and warp (WA). Such fabrics are distinguished from knitted goods, non woven fabrics, laces and the like.

Fabric The fabric repeats the ups and downs in which a portion of the weft or incline is floated and a part is settled down to maintain an interlace between the weft and the incline. Therefore, the textile fabric 1 has an intersection point (P) where the weft yarn WE and the warp yarn WA intersect. The intersection point P is different in number and position according to plain weave, twill weave and runner weave. In addition, the crossing point P may form a specific stripe on the woven fabric 1.

For example, plain weaves (tabby) form the intersection P between the warp yarn WA and the weft yarn WE one by one. Thus, the plain weave does not form stripes due to intersections. Twill weaves, on the other hand, have an asymmetrical number of wefts and warp yarns, resulting in slanted weaves. This oblique line is called the twill line. As such, the fabric may have various streaks depending on how the weft and warp swell. However, in the present invention, a specific reference to these stripes is omitted.

However, in order to easily distinguish the biased cut piece 50 and the conventional parallel cut piece 10 according to the present invention, only the inclination is indicated by a solid line in the drawing. Therefore, the conventional parallel cut cloth piece 10 and the garment using the same will be represented by a thick vertical stripes (inclined direction). On the other hand, the bias cut cloth piece 50 and the garment using the same according to the present invention will be represented by a slanted stripe (inclined direction) of a predetermined angle. Therefore, in the case of plain weave, the pattern and the actual pattern expressed in the drawing may be expressed similarly.However, when the pattern is put using colored yarn or there are ridges, the stripes shown in the drawing may be different from those seen in the actual clothes. It should be understood.

2 conceptually illustrates the structure of the weft yarn WE and the warp yarn WA of the woven fabric 1. Here, the thicknesses of the weft yarn WE and the warp yarn WA are ignored. The two wefts WE and the warp WA are orthogonal to form a rectangular space R therein. This rectangular space R is a portion which is not occupied by the weft and the inclination (or a gap between the weft and the inclination) and thus is a part that is easily structurally deformed. In the rectangular space R, a diagonal line D crossing the intersection point P at which the weft yarn WE and the warp yarn WA intersect can be assumed. The diagonal line D is an invisible imaginary line. At this time, two diagonal lines are orthogonal to one rectangular space R, but for convenience, only one diagonal line D will be considered.

Referring again to FIG. 1, the weft yarn (WE) direction and the warp yarn (WA) direction of the fabric fabric 1 coincide with the width direction W and the length direction L of the fabric fabric 1. However, the diagonal direction D of the fabric fabric 1 intersects with the width direction W and the length direction L of the fabric fabric 1 at an angle.

Meanwhile, the warp WA constituting the textile fabric 1 is referred to as a 'warp'. Warp yarns are made of small stretch yarns that can withstand the tension required when weaving fabrics. Therefore, there is little elasticity in the diagonal WA direction, that is, in the longitudinal direction L of the woven fabric 1. The conventional parallel cutting used this characteristic of the inclination to prevent the clothes from sagging by cutting the vertical direction X of the garment to coincide with the inclination direction. On the other hand, the weft yarn WE is called weft or bobbin yarn, and since a large tension is not required in the weaving process, a relatively elastic large fiber is used. Therefore, the weft yarn (WE) direction, that is, the width direction (W) of the woven fabric 1 is larger in elasticity than the longitudinal direction (L). Therefore, in the prior art, the weft direction is matched with the left and right directions of the garment to ensure maximum elasticity of the garment.

As described above, the conventional pants manufacturing method is characterized by cutting and sewing so that the longitudinal direction of the woven fabric matching the vertical direction (X) of the garment. That is, when cutting the fabric pieces, the left and right directions A of the fabric pieces 10 are cut to match the width direction W of the fabric fabric 1, and when sewing the fabric pieces, the left and right sides of the fabric pieces 10 are sewn. Sewing so that direction A coincides with the horizontal direction of the garment.

As shown in FIG. 1, two fabric pieces 10 and 50 are cut in one fabric fabric 1. One piece of cloth 10 located above is cut according to the conventional 'parallel cutting' method, and one piece of cloth 50 located below is cut according to the 'bias cutting' method of the present invention.

As shown, the left and right directions A of the parallel cut fabric pieces 10 correspond to the width direction W of the fabric fabric 1, and the up and down direction B of the fabric pieces 10 is fabric. Coincides with the longitudinal direction L of the fabric 1. On the other hand, the left and right directions (A) and the up and down directions (B) of the biased cut fabric 50 are inclined at a predetermined angle with respect to the width direction (W) and the longitudinal direction (L) of the fabric fabric (1). The left and right directions (A) and the up and down direction (B) of the cloth piece 10 is not determined by the shape of the piece of cloth, but is corrected according to the direction in which the piece of cloth is placed in a state worn by the wearer. That is, the left and right directions of the cloth pieces coincide with the horizontal direction of the clothes, and the up and down directions of the cloth pieces correspond to the vertical direction of the clothes. In addition, the term "matches" in the present invention includes not only two directions being collinear but also two parallel.

Also, on the right side of FIG. 1, the pieces of cloth 10 and 50 separated from the fabric fabric 1 are shown separately. In the parallel cut fabric piece 10 shown above, the left and right directions A of the separated fabric pieces 10 coincide with the width direction W and the weft direction WE of the fabric fabric 1. . In other words, it can be seen that the separated piece of cloth 10 has the same structure as that of the fabric fabric 1, only the size and shape thereof are different. On the other hand, the left and right directions A of the bias cut fabric pieces 50 shown below are inclined at a predetermined angle without coinciding with the width direction W and the weft yarn WE direction of the fabric fabric 1. That is, the bias cut cloth piece 50 can be seen that the structure of the fabric as well as the size and shape of the fabric fabric (1) is different.

3 is a front view illustrating an example of a jacket 100 manufactured according to a conventional method. The jacket 100 has a horizontal direction X and a vertical direction Y based on the gravity direction. As for the cloth piece 10 of the outer fabric, the lining or the wick which comprises the said jacket 100, the left-right direction A corresponds to the horizontal direction X of the jacket 100. FIG. That is, as shown in the enlarged view of the upper right, the cloth piece 10 is the weft (WE) direction coincides with the horizontal direction (X) of the jacket 100 and the inclined (WA) direction is perpendicular to the jacket 100 Coincides with the direction (Y). And it can be seen that the diagonal (D) direction connecting the intersection point of the weft and the inclined at an angle with respect to the horizontal direction (X) of the jacket (100).

In general, clothing tightens the torso, abdomen, arms and legs inward. This tightening phenomenon is necessary to make the body appear as it is, but it restricts the wearer's activity. Therefore, clothing requires sufficient elasticity to alleviate this tightening. Therefore, the direction in which the wearer demands the most elasticity in the garment is usually coincident with the horizontal direction (X) of the garment.

In other words, the maximum stretch demand direction DE of the garment coincides with the horizontal direction X of the garment. Therefore, in order to alleviate the tightening phenomenon in clothing, it is necessary to make the maximum stretching direction E of the piece of cloth coincide with the horizontal direction X of the clothing. By the way, in the conventional parallel cut fabric 10, the direction of the weft (WE) coincides with the maximum stretch request direction (DE) of the garment. Since the elasticity of the weft direction is determined by the material of the weft yarn, there is always a limit to increase the elasticity. In addition, rubber yarn or elastic yarn mainly used in the weft yarn has a disadvantage in that the shape of the clothes is deformed by losing the restoring force over time.

Figure 4 is a front view showing an example of the jacket 150 made of a bias cut cloth piece 50 in accordance with the present invention.

As shown, the diagonal D direction of the biased cut piece 50 coincides with the horizontal direction X of the jacket 150. That is, the maximum stretch direction E of the biased cut piece 50 coincides with the maximum stretch demand direction DE of the garment 150. The stretch in the diagonal (D) direction is due to the structural deformation of the fabric. Therefore, regardless of the material of the weft or warp, it always becomes the maximum stretching direction (E). As described above, the jacket 150 according to the present invention is characterized in that the maximum stretching direction E of the piece of cloth 50 is cut and sewed so as to match the maximum stretching demand direction DE of the garment.

Referring to Figure 5 will be described in detail the structure of the weft (WE) and warp (WA) of the bias cut fabric (50) according to the present invention.

As shown in the drawing, the biased cut piece 50 has a rectangular space R surrounded by the weft yarn WE and the warp yarn WA deformed into a diamond shape when the tension in the diagonal direction D acts. Increases. This is due to the structural characteristics of the rectangular space R, regardless of the material of the weft and the slope. Therefore, the elasticity of the diagonal (D) direction is always greater than the weft and oblique direction. For example, when the material of the weft and the inclination is changed to increase the elasticity, the deformation of the rectangular space R also increases in proportion to the diagonal D, so that the diagonal direction D always becomes the maximum elastic direction E. In addition, the deformed diamond shape has elasticity of the weft and warp, as well as the restoring force according to the structural characteristics of the square does not reduce the elasticity even after the use period. As described above, the present invention utilizes the structural characteristics of the bias cut fabric pieces so that the maximum stretch direction E of the fabric pieces coincides with the maximum stretch demand direction DE of the garment.

On the other hand, the bias angle of the biased cut fabric 50, that is, the angle between the left and right direction (A) and the width direction (W) of the fabric fabric (1) is determined by the inclination angle of the diagonal (D). For example, in the case of plain weave, since the rectangular space R is square, the inclination angle of the diagonal line D crossing two intersection points of the square space R is 45 degrees. Therefore, the inclination angle between the left and right directions A of the fabric pieces 50 and the width direction W of the fabric fabric 1 should be cut to 45 degrees. In this way, the diagonal D direction of the biased cut piece 50 can be matched to the maximum stretching demand direction DE of the garment.

In the case of twill weave, since the rectangular space R is rectangular, the inclination angle between the left and right directions A of the fabric pieces 50 and the width direction W of the fabric fabric 1 is less than 45 degrees or more than 45 degrees. Will be. Therefore, the inclination angle between the left and right directions (A) of the fabric piece (50) and the width direction (W) of the fabric fabric (1) must be cut to be less than 45 degrees or more than 45 degrees diagonal (D) of the fabric piece (50) The direction can be matched with the maximum stretch demand direction DE of the garment. As described above, bias cutting in the present invention is to match the maximum stretch direction E of the fabric piece 50, that is, the diagonal D direction, with the maximum stretch demand direction DE of the garment.

As described above, since the bias cutting according to the present invention has excellent elasticity, the pattern used for the conventional parallel cutting cannot be used as it is. Therefore, the pattern must be newly created or modified. In addition, when bias cutting according to the present invention, because of good elasticity, it is difficult to cut into sheets. Therefore, it is better to use a computer controlled automatic cutting machine after compressing several sheets of fabric. In addition, when sewing a bias cut cloth piece 50 in accordance with the present invention, it is more productive or quality to use a sewing machine that moves the teeth and needle bar presser foot attached to the needle plate at the same time than the general sewing machine moving only the teeth attached to the needle plate However, this point will be easily understood by those skilled in the art, and thus a detailed description thereof will be omitted.

6 is a plan view showing an embodiment of a bias cutting method according to the present invention.

As shown, one woven fabric 1 is arranged with a plurality of fabric pieces 50 (or patterns) for making two pants. At this time, the fabric fabric 1 has a width direction (W) and the longitudinal direction (L) in the form of a rectangular shape. The weft yarn (WE) and the warp yarn (WA) of the fabric fabric (1) is made of a structure intersecting at right angles, the diagonal (D) direction is formed at the intersection point (P) of the two weft yarns (WE) and warp (WA). do.

 In the present embodiment, the fabric piece 50 disposed on the fabric fabric 1 has a left and right direction (A) and up and down direction (B). The cloth piece 50 is inclined at a predetermined angle with respect to the width direction W of the woven fabric 1 in the left and right direction A. FIG. In addition, the plurality of fabric pieces 50 disposed on the fabric fabric 1 are all inclined in the same direction, that is, in the upper right direction (B). That is, the fabric fabric (1) is arranged with four front plates (ⓐ, ⓑ, A, B) and four back plates (ⓐ, ⓑ, A, B) for making two pants. The pieces are arranged inclined in the upper right direction.

Therefore, when the pants are made by sewing the corresponding two front and two back plates (indicated by the dotted lines), as shown in the right side of FIG. 6 and FIG. 7, the left side and the symmetrical side to form one pants 200 The inclination WA of the right-hand cloth piece is inclined in the upper left direction in the same manner. Accordingly, in the figure, the stripes of the pants 200 are obliquely expressed in either direction.

On the other hand, Figure 8 is a plan view showing another embodiment of the bias cutting method according to the present invention.

As shown, a plurality of fabric pieces 50 (or patterns) are arranged in one fabric fabric 1 to make two pants. The cloth piece 50 is inclined at a predetermined angle with the left and right directions A and the width direction W of the woven fabric 1. In this case, the upper ones of the fabric pieces 50 disposed on the fabric fabric 1 are inclined in the upper left direction and the lower ones are in the upper right direction. Inclined to At this time, the fabric piece 50 at the top and the fabric piece 50 at the bottom, the left and right fabric pieces 50 are symmetrical to form one pants 250, 300 at a rotation angle of 90 degrees. It is arranged to rotate.

Therefore, when the pants are made by sewing the corresponding two front and two back plates (indicated by the dotted lines), as shown in the right side of FIG. 8, and FIGS. 9 and 10, one pants 250 and 300. The inclination WA of the left and right swatches symmetrical to constitute the inclined in the opposite direction to each other. Accordingly, in the drawing, oblique stripes of the pants 250 and 300 are orthogonal to the center of the pants to form a V-shaped "∨" or a mountain "∧" shaped stripe.

As shown in FIG. 7, when the left and right sides of the pants 200 are biased in the same direction (the arrow direction indicates the inclined direction), the pants may be distorted because both the left and right sides are deflected in the same direction. . That is, the warp of the woven fabric 1 is almost no stretch as the warp yarn, but the weft yarn is made of a material superior in elasticity than the warp, the stretch in the weft direction is always greater than the stretch in the warp direction. Therefore, when the inclination WA of the left and right portions of the pants 200 are all disposed in the same direction, the pants are twisted because the elasticity of the pants is biased in the weft direction.

On the other hand, as shown in FIG. 9, when the inclination WA directions of the left and right portions of the pants 250 are disposed to face in opposite directions to each other, the inclined directions (arrows) of the left and right sides of the pants 250 are indicated. Symmetry, the deflection of elasticity is canceled out. Therefore, the elasticity is not biased in either direction as a whole, so the fit is improved without twisting. On the other hand, Figure 10 shows another example of the pants 300 according to the present invention, when compared with the pants 250 shown in Figure 9, the bias of the fabric piece 50 is disposed on the left and right The direction is in the opposite direction.

Meanwhile, as shown in FIGS. 9 and 10, the pants 250 form a V-shaped stripe with the left and right inclined directions (thick solid line direction) toward the bottom of the center. On the other hand, the pants 300 shown in FIG. 10 form a "∧" shaped stripe with the left and right inclined directions (thick solid line direction) toward the top of the center. Such patterns are generally thicker than weft yarns, so they can be expressed in real clothes. As described above, according to the present invention, the bias direction of the fabric pieces 50 arranged on the left and right sides of the garment is orthogonal to each other so that a V-shaped or mountain-shaped pattern can be expressed.

As described above, the present invention can not only prevent warping but also express beautiful patterns of " 우측 " and " " Until now, such a pattern could not be expressed using only a fabric fabric in pants or a jacket. The bias cutting according to the present invention is not only able to manufacture garments with excellent elasticity, but also very effective for pioneering new stripe fashion.

11 is a blouse 350 according to an embodiment of the present invention. The blouse 350 is made of outer fabric. The blouse 350 is designed to reveal the wearer's body shape. The blouse 350 is made by sewing a bias cut cloth piece 50. As shown, the horizontal direction (X) of the blouse coincides with the diagonal (D) direction of the piece of cloth. Therefore, the maximum stretch direction E of the piece of fabric coincides with the maximum stretch demand direction DE of the blouse. Therefore, the blouse 350 is tightened to reveal the wearer's body, but the elasticity is excellent, there is no feeling of stuffiness and the activity is free. In addition, in the case of the blouse 350, the bias direction of the left and right sides of the garment is reversed, thereby preventing distortion and expressing symmetrical patterns of “∨” and “∧”.

Clothing consists of the outer, the lining and the interlining. The lining keeps the garment's outward silhouette and keeps the inside out with a warming effect. The wick is placed on the collar, shoulders, and chest of the jacket to improve the silhouette of the garment and to improve the physical performance of the garment, such as torsional rigidity and bending rigidity. For example, for jackets all outer, lining and wick are used. But pants are made of outer and lining only. Blouses and jeans are made of just the outside.

Therefore, according to the present invention, the garment can be suitably used in accordance with the type and shape of the garment. In other words, the blouse and jeans are made of only the biased outer fabric. Jackets or pants consist of a biased outer and biased lining, or a biased outer, lining and wick. In addition, in the case of a jacket or pants, it may be made of a bias-cut outer and parallel cut lining, or may be made of a bias-cut outer and parallel cut lining and wick. In addition, it may be made of a parallel cut outer and bias cut lining, or may be made of a parallel cut outer and bias cut lining and wick.

12 shows an example of a bias cut lining 400 in accordance with the present invention. The bias cut lining 400 is superimposed on the inside of the jacket 150 and sewn together. The lining 400 is designed to fit the wearer's body. The tight lining 400 is made by sewing a bias cut cloth piece 50. The horizontal direction X of the lining 400 coincides with the diagonal D direction of the cloth piece. Therefore, the maximum stretching direction E of the cloth piece coincides with the maximum stretching request direction DE of the lining. Therefore, the lining 400 is tightly attached to the wearer's body when worn, but the maximum stretch direction E of the piece coincides with the maximum stretch demand direction DE of the lining, so there is no feeling of frustration and activity is free. In particular, such a lining 400 may provide a tight jacket because the body of the wearer is well revealed when the outer fabric is biased. Conventional parallel cut lining is not stretchy and does not reveal the body shape as well as greatly restricts the wearer's activity. However, when the inner eye 400 according to the present invention is applied to the inside of the parallel cut outer fabric, the jacket can be provided by the parallel cutting while maintaining the silhouette of the clothes while biasing the lining in contact with the body.

On the other hand, Figure 13 shows another embodiment of the bias-cut lining 500 in accordance with the present invention. As shown, the lining 500 is divided into a back plate 310, a sleeve 320, a waist 330 and the chest. In general, the back plate 310 and the sleeve 320 require more elasticity than the waist 330 or the chest. Therefore, the lining of the back plate 310 and the sleeve 320 is secured enough in the horizontal direction (X) by using the biased cut piece 50 to increase the activity. On the other hand, the waist portion 330 sewn under the back plate 310 uses a parallel cut piece of cloth as in the prior art to reduce the elasticity in the left and right direction so that the silhouette of the waist survives.

At this time, when cutting the lining of the back plate 310 and the sleeve 320, the bias angle of the fabric pieces depends on the shape of the rectangular space (R) consisting of two wefts (WE) and the slope (WA). . For example, when the rectangular space R is square, the diagonal D direction is inclined at 45 degrees with respect to the weft direction WE, and when the rectangular space R is rectangular, the diagonal D is a weft ( It is inclined to less than 45 degrees with respect to the WE) direction. At this time, if the direction of the diagonal (D) is 45 degrees slightly different depending on the material of the weft and the inclination, the elasticity of the left and right direction (A) or up and down direction (B) of the fabric pieces is relatively the same.

However, when the direction of the diagonal (D) is less than 45 degrees (or more than 45 degrees), the elasticity in the diagonal (D) direction is somewhat inferior, and the deviation of the left and right directions (A) and up and down (B) elasticity of the fabric pieces Will be generated. That is, when the direction of the diagonal (D) is less than 45 degrees because the influence of the inclination is greater, the elasticity of the up and down direction (B) of the piece of cloth is less. Therefore, the elasticity of the lining can be appropriately adjusted by using the deviation of the elasticity of the cloth piece according to the bias angle. For example, since the lining of the sleeve 320 requires much elasticity in the horizontal direction X, it is preferable to use a cloth piece having a bias angle of 45 degrees. On the other hand, the lining of the back plate 310 is required to have elasticity in the horizontal direction (X) at the same time it is preferable to limit the elasticity in order to prevent sagging in the vertical direction (Y). Therefore, in this case, it is better to use a cloth piece with a bias angle of less than 45 degrees. As described above, the present invention can prevent the garment from sagging downward while maintaining the elasticity of the garment by appropriately using various cloth pieces having different bias angles.

14 shows another embodiment of a women's jacket 600 manufactured in accordance with the present invention. The women's jacket 600 has a high elasticity by using the waist portion 610 and the sleeve portion 620 is biased cut fabric piece 50, and the front plate 630 and the back plate with less movement ( 640 is by using a parallel cut piece of cloth (10) is excellent in elasticity and good dressing.

And, Figure 15 shows another embodiment of a men's jacket 650 manufactured according to the present invention. This men's jacket 650 is made of a bias cut fabric piece (50). The men's jacket 650 is sewn and disposed so that the inclination (WA) directions of the bias cut fabric pieces 50 constituting the left and right portions about the center of the vertical axis are opposite to each other. By reversing the direction of the biased cut piece 50 on the left and right as described above, the elasticity is excellent and the elasticity is not deflected, thereby making it comfortable without distortion. At this time, since the pocket portion 660 may sag down, it is preferable to use a parallel cut piece of cloth.

16 shows an example of a jeans 700 manufactured according to the present invention. As shown, the jeans 700 are divided into the hip portion 710 and the leg portion 730 up and down. The jeans 700 has a lot of movement in the hip portion 710 using a bias cut cloth piece 50 to have good elasticity, and the relatively low leg portion 730 moves the parallel cut cloth piece 10. By sewing, the elasticity is excellent and the dressing is good. In addition, the hips 710 of the jeans 700 are arranged such that the direction of the biased cut pieces 50 on the left and the right of the center about the vertical axis is opposite to each other so that distortion does not occur.

In addition, the knee portion 750, which has a lot of movement among the leg portions 730, uses a separately biased cloth piece 50 to improve elasticity and durability so that the knee portion does not protrude even after long use. On the contrary, the belt portion 770 which tightly wraps around the pocket 760 and the waist is prevented from sagging or stretching using the parallel cut cloth piece 10.

In addition, according to the present invention, the biased cut piece 50 does not cause loosening because weft yarns and warp yarns are entangled in a mesh shape. Therefore, even if the bottom of the sleeve or pants or upper garment of the bias cut cloth piece 50 is not hem treated (folding the hem sewn) is not unrolled and clean. Therefore, in the case of outer garments such as blouses, jeans, and T-shirts, sewing them to the original cut without the hem of the sleeves, pants or tops will not only simplify the work, but also create new forms of clothing. do.

As described above, the present invention is bias cutting so that the diagonal (D) direction across the intersection of the weft and the warp when cutting the fabric fabric 1 coincides with the horizontal direction (X) which is the maximum stretching demand direction (DE) of the garment By sewing to reveal the wearer's body intact while providing excellent pants.

In addition, the present invention in consideration of the elasticity required for each part of the pants by appropriately combining the bias cutting and the conventional parallel cutting to prevent the pants from sagging down to improve the dressing.

According to the present invention, the pants can be omitted because the elasticity is sufficient without additional wrinkles, cumbersome wrinkle work.

In addition, in the conventional parallel cut fabric pieces, the loosening phenomenon occurs frequently at the end portion or button hole of the finished product, but the bias cut fabric pieces according to the present invention forms a diamond-shaped mesh structure of weft and warp, so that the edge portion is It stays clean.

In addition, the pants produced by the conventional method lacks the elasticity, but the phenomenon occurs in the sewn seam portion sewn during wearing or washing, but the pants produced in the bias cut cloth pieces according to the present invention unfolded in the seam line portion This eliminates quality problems such as sewn parts being torn apart.

In addition, the pants according to the present invention can express a variety of stripes according to the direction in which the bias cut fabric is arranged, there is an effect that can produce a new design from the conventional generalized pattern in terms of design.

In the above, it was described with reference to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, but those skilled in the art various modifications and changes to the present invention without departing from the spirit and scope of the present invention described in the claims below You will understand that you can.

1 is a conceptual plan view showing a conventional method for cutting a piece of cloth on a fabric fabric and the cutting method of the present invention,

Figure 2 is a front view showing the structure of the weft and the slope of the cloth cut in accordance with the conventional method,

3 is a front view showing a jacket manufactured according to the conventional method,

4 is a front view showing an example of a jacket manufactured according to the present method;

5 is a conceptual diagram showing the structure of the weft and warp of the biased cut piece according to the present invention,

Figure 6 is a plan view showing an embodiment of cutting the fabric pieces on the woven fabric in accordance with the present method,

7 is a front view showing an example of the pants manufactured according to the present invention,

8 is a plan view showing another embodiment of cutting the fabric pieces on the woven fabric in accordance with the present method,

9 and 10 are front and rear views showing another example of the pants manufactured according to the present invention;

11 is a front view showing an example of a blouse manufactured according to the present invention;

12 is a rear view showing a bias cut lining of a jacket made in accordance with the present invention;

13 is a rear view showing a partially biased lining of a jacket made in accordance with the present invention;

14 is a front view and a rear view showing another example of a women's jacket made in accordance with the present invention;

15 is a front view and a rear view showing another example of a men's jacket made in accordance with the present invention;

16 is a front view and a rear view showing an example of the jeans manufactured according to the present invention.

*** Explanation of symbols for the main parts of the drawing ***

1: fabric fabric 10: parallel cut fabric

50: bias cut cloth piece WE: weft

WA: Slope A: Left and right direction of cloth

B: Up and down direction of cloth pieces D: Diagonal line

DE: maximum stretch direction of clothing E: maximum stretch direction of fabric

L: Woven length of the fabric fabric W: Woven width of the fabric fabric

R: Square space X: Horizontal direction of clothing

Y: vertical direction of clothing

Claims (7)

The weft yarn (WE) and the warp yarn (WA) are orthogonal to each other to form an intersection point (P) is partly floated and partly laid down and its width direction (W) is a fabric fabric matching the weft (WE) direction In the pants made by sewing the pieces of cloth cut to the shape of each part of the body, The pants are divided into hips and legs; The hip part is made of a fabric piece 50 biased to be inclined at a predetermined angle with respect to the width direction W of the fabric fabric 1, and a diagonal line D connecting two intersection points P. ) Sewing so that the direction of the garment coincides with the maximum stretching direction DE of the garment; The leg part is made of a piece of cloth (10) parallel cut so that the left and right directions (A) correspond to the width direction (W) of the woven fabric (1), and the diagonal (D) connecting two intersection points (P) Trousers characterized in that the direction made by sewing inclined at a certain angle with the maximum stretching demand direction (DE) of the garment. The method of claim 1, Knee portion of the leg portion, characterized in that made of bias cut cloth piece (50). The method according to claim 1 or 2, The hip part, characterized in that the inclined (WA) direction of the bias cut fabric piece (50) disposed on the left and right about the center of the vertical axis perpendicular to each other to form a symmetrical pattern. The method according to claim 1 or 2, Pocket portion and belt portion formed in the hip portion, characterized in that consisting of a piece of parallel cut cloth (10). The weft yarn (WE) and the warp yarn (WA) are orthogonal to each other to form an intersection point (P) is partly floated and partly laid down and its width direction (W) is a fabric fabric matching the weft (WE) direction In the pants made by sewing the pieces of cloth cut to the shape of each part of the body, The pants are divided into hips and legs; The hip part is made of a piece of cloth 10 parallel cut so that the left and right directions (A) correspond to the width direction (W) of the fabric fabric, the direction of the diagonal (D) connecting the two intersection points (P) is a garment It is made by sewing inclined at a predetermined angle with the maximum stretching demand direction (DE) of; The leg part is made of a fabric piece 50 is biased to be inclined at a predetermined angle with respect to the width direction (W) of the fabric fabric, the direction of the diagonal (D) connecting the two intersection points (P) is Pants characterized in that the sewing is made to match the maximum stretch direction (DE) of the garment. The method of claim 5, The hem of the leg portion is characterized in that the pants are not sewn folded. The method according to claim 5 or 6, The leg portion of the pants, characterized in that the inclined (WA) direction of the bias cut fabric pieces (50) disposed on the left and right are perpendicular to each other to form a symmetrical pattern.

Images