WO2005048752A1

WO2005048752A1 - A denim clothing and a method of manufacturing the same

Info

Publication number: WO2005048752A1
Application number: PCT/CN2004/001268
Authority: WO
Inventors: Kai Han
Original assignee: Kai Han
Priority date: 2003-11-07
Filing date: 2004-11-08
Publication date: 2005-06-02
Also published as: CN1613392A; CN100453000C

Abstract

A denim clothing is formed by sewing up garment pieces made of a knitted denim cloth and garment pieces made of a woven denim cloth. Said knitted denim cloth is knitted by a circular knitting machine. Said woven denim cloth is woven by a weaving machine. The face yarn of the knitted denim cloth and the warp yarn of the woven denim cloth adopt the same indigo dyed yarn, so that the parts of the knitted denim cloth and the parts of the woven denim cloth have an identical style of appearance. The invention also relates to a method of manufacturing said denim clothing.

Description

Denim clothing and method for manufacturing the same

Technical field

The present invention relates to a denim garment, and more particularly to a hybrid denim garment made by combining a knitted denim and a woven denim.

Background technique

The most traditional denim clothing is denim clothing made of woven denim. Traditional woven denim is interwoven with indigo-dyed indigo warp yarns and natural associated yarns. The biggest feature of woven denim is that because the warp yarns use indigo dyed yarns with low dyeing fastness, it can produce a special effect of simultaneous color shedding and abrasion after multiple washings. Coupled with its structured, thick, durable, rough and casual style, denim clothing made of woven denim has been loved by consumers from all over the world for more than 120 years since its birth. However, woven denim has its own insurmountable shortcomings. Compared with knitwear, its wearing comfort is not good. Specifically, because of its thickness, denim clothing made of woven denim is breathable on the body. Very poor, the human body's sweat cannot be discharged smoothly, especially in hot summer and other sweaty occasions, people are rarely willing to wear denim clothing made of woven denim. In addition, because of its stiff and hard texture, the elasticity of woven denim is not good. Although people have improved the elasticity of woven denim by adding stretch yarns, due to the nature of the woven fabric, its Elasticity is still not comparable to knitted fabrics. Therefore, although consumers like denim garments made of woven denim, consumers must bear the disadvantages of poor breathability and poor elasticity of woven denim garments while wearing.

With the trend of knitwear outerwear, knitted denim has been recently developed.

Consumers need to be comfortable. However, denim garments made from knitted denim also have The fatal flaw, that is, its appearance style has severely deviated from the appearance style of the traditional woven denim clothing, and thus it is difficult for consumers who have become accustomed to wearing woven denim clothing to receive knitted denim clothing. First of all, its dimensional stability is poor. After repeated washing, it is difficult to maintain the original size. This is a fatal defect especially for consumers who are accustomed to wearing woven denim clothing. Frequently worn parts of denim clothing, such as trousers, police, elbows, sleeves, etc., are easy to break yarn wear and tear, and the knitted fabric will be separated after the breakage, resulting in the fabric can no longer be worn; In addition, knitted denim clothing The stiffness is poor. After wearing it for a period of time, deformation will occur in some parts, such as the shoulders of the jacket, the hem, and the belt of the pants. This deformation not only affects the aesthetics, but also the rough style of the jeans. Therefore, although knitted denim has good breathability and elasticity, it is comfortable to wear, but because it is far from the traditional woven denim clothing in terms of dimensional stability, abrasion resistance, and stiffness, it will make the wearer feel Obviously, I can feel that I am not wearing a traditional woven denim garment. This situation greatly affects the degree of popularity of knitted denim garments by consumers.

Description of the invention

The purpose of the present invention is to provide a denim garment, which is a harmonious and perfect combination of traditional woven denim and knitted denim, which has high dimensional stability, good stiffness, and It also has the advantages of wear resistance, and has the advantages of good breathability, high elasticity, and comfortable wearing. At the same time, it makes the wearer visually feel that he is wearing a traditional woven denim clothing.

According to the present invention, a denim garment is formed by sewing a piece of knitted denim and a piece of woven denim. The knitted denim is woven and formed on a circular knitting machine, and the woven denim is formed on a loom. Weaving is formed, and the veil of the knitted denim and the warp yarn of the woven denim are dyed with the same indigo yarn so that the knitted denim part and the woven denim part have a consistent appearance style.

The invention also provides a method for manufacturing knitted denim clothing, which at least includes the following Said steps:

a) provide a knitted denim grey fabric formed by knitting on a circular knitting machine, the knitted denim veil is made of indigo dyed yarn;

b) providing a woven denim grey fabric woven on a loom, the woven denim warp yarn is the same indigo dyed yarn as in step a;

c) cutting the knitted denim and the woven denim as needed to form a cloth piece in a desired shape;

d) stitch the knitted denim and woven denim pieces to form the final garment.

The present invention will be described in detail below by way of example with reference to the accompanying drawings. It should be understood that the examples given below are only for the purpose of illustrating the present invention, and should not be construed as limiting the present invention. The appended claims shall prevail.

Drawing description

1 is a front view of a denim top according to a first preferred embodiment of the present invention; FIG. 2 is a back view of a denim top according to a first preferred embodiment of the present invention; FIG. 3 is a jeans according to a second preferred embodiment of the present invention 4 is a back view of jeans according to a second preferred embodiment of the present invention; FIG. 5 is a schematic view of a pre-shrinking process of the present invention.

detailed description

The term "denim clothing" in the present invention includes denim tops and jeans.

1 and 2 show a denim top according to a first preferred embodiment of the present invention. The denim top uses traditional woven denim as the shoulder 1, hem 2, front 3, elbow 4, pocket 5, and collar 10, because these parts will receive more than other parts The effect of wear and / or stress. Knit denim is used as the fabric in other parts of the denim jacket. The woven denim is traditional woven denim, for example, cotton yarn dyed with indigo is used as the warp yarn and the natural color Weft interlacing, for example, a three-up, right-right oblique interlacing structure can be adopted. Whereas the knitted denim is in a circular knitting machine (for example,

WELLKNIT, PF / 3F model, the machine number is 24G) Weaving to form a gray fabric, for example, knitted terry weave can be used. The knitted terry weave is made of cotton yarn dyed in the same indigo color as the woven denim, and the terry yarn is made of natural color In order to make the tissue structure compact, it is preferable to add an elastic padding yarn, such as Lycra. The use of stretch yarn is to ensure that woolen yarn does not leak out on the front of the fabric and affect the appearance. In this article, the term "same indigo dyeing" does not mean that the yarn fineness is also the same, but yarns with different yarn finenesses can be used as required. This term simply means that the same indigo dyeing process is used. Since the present invention The knitted denim top uses knitted denim parts and the veil of woven denim parts uses the same indigo dyed yarn, so the appearance of the final garment is harmonious and unified, and the same washing effect can be produced after washing, so that The wearer can barely perceive the presence of organic woven denim and knitted denim.

Preferably, in order to ensure that the parts of the woven denim and the parts of the knitted denim are smoothly connected, and after subsequent wearing and washing, no shrinkage of the woven denim is smaller than that of the knitted denim. As a result, unevenness occurs in the connection part, the knitted denim grey fabric used in the present invention should be pre-shrinked before cutting to reduce the residual stress in the knitted denim and improve the dimensional stability after washing. Hereinafter, the pre-shrinking treatment of the knitted denim in the present invention will be described in detail.

3 and 4 show a second preferred embodiment of the jeans of the present invention. The jeans are made of conventional woven denim at the waistband part 6, back pocket part 7, front pocket part 8, and front buckle part 9 which are often subject to wear and / or stress, while other parts are made of knitted denim. The woven denim cloth is traditional woven denim cloth, for example, indigo dyed cotton yarn is used as the warp yarn to interweave with the natural weave yarn. The knitted denim fabric is woven on a circular knitting machine to form a gray fabric. For example, a knitted terry weave can be used. (knitted terry), the knitted terry tissue veil uses the same indigo dyed cotton yarn as the woven denim, and the woolen yarn uses the natural cotton yarn. In order to make the structure tight, it is preferable to add a stretch padding yarn such as Lycra. The use of stretch yarn is to ensure that the terry yarn does not leak out on the front of the fabric and affect the appearance.

Preferably, in order to ensure that the parts of the woven denim and the parts of the knitted denim are smoothly connected, and after subsequent wearing and washing, no shrinkage of the woven denim is smaller than that of the knitted denim. As a result, unevenness occurs in the connection part, the knitted denim gray fabric used in the present invention should be pre-shrinked before cutting to reduce the residual stress in the knitted denim and increase its dimensional stability after washing. Hereinafter, the pre-shrinking treatment of the knitted denim in the present invention will be described in detail.

The manufacturing process of the denim garment of the present invention will be described in detail below.

-First, a woven denim and a knitted denim are provided. The woven denim can be, for example, indigo dyed cotton yarn interlaced with natural weft warp and weft. The yarn count range can be 6S-40S. The number of yarns per inch is 40-90 per inch. The knitted denim is woven on a circular knitting machine, and the structure is, for example, a knitted terry weave. The veil is made of the same indigo dyed yarn as the warp yarn of the woven denim, and the woolen yarn is made of natural cotton. Add an elastic padding yarn, such as Lycra, veil and wool yarn, the yarn count is 16S-40S and 16-60S, the fineness of the elastic yarn is 20 denier-70 denier, the needle density range of the knitting machine can be is 15--28 gauge (gauge), knitted denim weight is preferably 150 - 500g / m ^2. The appearance style of knitted denim made with such parameters is most consistent with the appearance style of woven denim.

Next, the woven denim and knitted denim are cut into pieces of a desired shape at a desired position.

Finally, the woven denim and knitted denim pieces are stitched together to form the final denim garment.

Preferably, it is better to pre-shrink knitted denim to reduce knitted denim The residual stress in the cloth increases the dimensional stability of knitted denim and greatly reduces its shrinkage. Therefore, in the wearing process of the clothing, the unevenness of the connection area caused by the inconsistency of the shrinkage ratio between the knitted denim part and the woven denim part is greatly reduced.

Now, the pre-shrinking process of the knitted denim grey fabric of the present invention will be described with reference to FIG.

As shown in FIG. 5, the rolled denim grey fabric 58 is unwound by the unwinding device 51. The grey fabric is fed into the pre-shrinking device at a flat width of 20 to 30 meters per minute, and is brought through a cloth guide roller 52. Into the J-shaped groove 3, in the J-shaped groove 53, the grey fabrics are stacked in a relaxed state, and the grey fabrics after the relaxed stacking pass through the cloth guide rollers 54 into the hot water tank 55 in a flat width manner. The hot water tank has An inclined surface allows the grey fabric to slide naturally under the action of gravity. Hot water (approximately 80-100 degrees Celsius) is placed in the hot water tank 55. After the grey cloth is sufficiently wetted and shrunk in the hot water tank 55 by the high-temperature hot water, the cloth is dropped into the cold water tank 57 by the cloth falling guide rollers 56. After the grey cloth comes out of the cold water tank and dried, the pre-shrinking process ends. Among them, the cloth guide roller 52, the cloth guide roller 54 and the cloth drop guide roller 56 are all driven by respective motors. Due to the shrinkage of the grey fabric in the hot water tank, the rotation speed of the cloth guide roller 54 is about 8% to 13% faster than the cloth guide roller 56, that is, the overfeed is about 8% to 13%.

After the pre-shrinking process, the shrinkage ratio of the knitted denim grey fabric can be controlled at 4-7% in the warp direction and 2-5% in the weft direction, which is roughly equivalent to the shrinkage ratio of the traditional woven denim fabric. Therefore, the present invention makes the present invention After washing, the denim clothing will not be uneven at the joint of woven denim and knitted denim.

The type of yarn used in the present invention is not limited to cotton yarn, but may be used in other cases, for example, it can be selected from cellulose fiber, polyester fiber, wool fiber, and hemp fiber. In the present invention, the woven denim can be used with any organization structure of the traditional woven denim. The structure of the needle denim is not limited to the knitted woolen structure, but other organizations, such as yarn-added padding, can also be used. The only requirement is that the warp of woven denim and the veil of knitted denim are the same indigo dyed yarn to ensure Have the same style look.

The denim clothing of the present invention is frequently worn and / or stressed such as the shoulder

1. Garment 2. Front buckle area 3. Elbow area 4. Pocket cover 5. Waist belt area 6. Back pocket area 7. Front pocket area 8. Front buckle area 9. Wear-resistant and dimensionally stable woven denim. In other parts, knitted denim is used. Compared with the denim top using only knitted denim, the obtained denim top has greatly improved abrasion resistance and dimensional stability. Compared with the denim top using only woven denim, Ratio, greatly improving its comfort. And because the parts that use woven denim and the parts that use knitted denim have the same indigo dyed yarn, they have the same appearance and can produce the same washing effect. This can deceive the eyes of consumers, that is, it seems that consumers are wearing traditional woven denim clothing, while greatly improving its breathability and elasticity, and improving its comfort.

Preferably, in the denim garment of the present invention, the shrinkage rate of the portion where the knitted denim is used is substantially the same as the shrinkage rate of the portion where the woven denim is used, so it is not flat. As a result, a harmonious and perfect unity of woven denim and knitted denim is achieved.

It should be understood that the part of the denim garment using woven denim of the present invention is not limited to the part in the above embodiment, but can be adopted in other parts according to function and comfort. Therefore, as long as the traditional knitted denim and machine are used, The denim garments formed by weaving denim cloth are all within the protection scope of the present invention.

Claims

Claims 1. A denim garment comprising a knitted fabric made of knitted denim and a knitted fabric made of knitted denim, the knitted denim is woven on a circular knitting machine, and the knitted denim is knitted on a loom Weaving is formed, and the veil of the knitted denim and the warp yarn of the woven denim adopt the same indigo dyed yarn so that the knitted denim portion and the woven denim portion have a consistent appearance style.

2. The denim garment according to claim 1, wherein the knitted denim fabric is pre-shrinked after being knitted on a circular knitting machine, so that the warped shrinkage rate of the processed knitted denim fabric is 4 to 7%, The contraction rate is between 2-5%.

3. The denim garment according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the knitted denim cloth is knitted on a circular knitting machine with a needle density of 15-28G, using a knitting loop structure, and a veil of 16S-40S indigo dyed cotton yarn, wool The reed yarn uses 16S-60S natural cotton yarn, the elastic padding yarn uses 20D-70D elastic yarn, and the weight of knitted denim is controlled to 150-500g / m ² ; the woven denim warp yarn mentioned therein uses 6S-40S The same indigo dyed cotton yarn, weft yarn uses natural cotton yarn.

4. The denim garment according to any one of the preceding claims, which is a denim jacket, wherein the portion of the garment sheet made of woven denim is selected from the following group: collar, shoulder, hem, front Buckle, elbow, and pocket cover.

5. The denim clothing according to any one of claims 1 to 4, which is jeans, wherein the portion of the garment piece composed of woven denim is selected from the following group: a belt portion, a back pocket portion, a front pocket portion , And front buckle.

6. A method for manufacturing knitted denim clothing, comprising at least the following steps:

b) providing a woven denim grey fabric woven on a loom, the woven denim warp yarn using the same indigo dyed yarn as in step a; C) cutting the knitted denim and the woven denim as needed to form a cloth piece of a desired shape;

d) stitching the knitted denim pieces and the woven denim pieces to form the final garment.

7. The method according to claim 6, further comprising the step of pre-shrinking the knitted denim formed on the circular knitting machine before cutting so that the warp shrinkage of the knitted denim is maintained at 4-7%, weft Keep it at 2-5%.

8. The method according to claim 6 or 7, wherein knitting quilted fabric is used in step a, wherein the quilted yarn is made of natural cotton yarn, and the middle weft yarn of step b is made of natural cotton yarn.

9. The method according to any one of claims 6 to 8, wherein the produced denim clothing is a denim jacket, and the portion where the garment sheet made of woven denim is located is selected from the group consisting of: clothing Collar, shoulder, hem, front buckle, elbow, and

10. The method according to any one of claims 7 to 9, wherein the manufactured denim clothing is jeans, wherein the portion of the garment sheet made of woven denim is selected from the following group: a belt portion, a rear portion Pocket area, front pocket area, and front buckle area.