KR20190011652A - method of manufacturing creased air permeability fabric having haggard touch feeling - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a method of manufacturing a breathable fabric. The method comprises: an arrangement process for a fabric, in which on the weft side, lines of a dissolvable weft yarn are repeatedly regularly inserted between lines of a first elastic yarn, and on the warp side, lines of a second elastic yarn having greater elongation than that of the first elastic yarn, and lines of a dissolvable warp yarn are repeatedly regularly inserted between lines of a hard twisted yarn, wherein lines of the second elastic yarn are inserted on left and right sides of the lines of the dissolvable warp yarn; a shrinking process of shrinking the fabric arranged through the arrangement process by using a low concentration of a mildly basic solution at a high temperature of 105-130°C to thus express irregular wavy creases in a weft direction by using a difference in elongation between the first elastic yarn and the second elastic yarn; a thermal fixing process of stretching the fabric shrunk through the shrinking process to a desired size, and subjecting the fabric to high temperature to thus fix the tissue structure; and a weight reduction process of immersing the fabric thermally fixed through the thermal fixing process in a solvent to thus remove the dissolvable yarn therefrom and form a breathing line in weft and warp directions.

Description

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention [0001] The present invention relates to a method of manufacturing a breathable fabric having a rough feel and a wrinkle in the direction of weft,

The present invention relates to a method of manufacturing a breathable fabric, and more particularly, to a method of manufacturing a breathable fabric, which comprises weaving using a stretchable yarn and a melt yarn and then removing the melt yarn, To a method of manufacturing a breathable fabric having a coarse touch feeling and a wrinkle in the direction of weft that can prevent collapse.

In general fabrics are woven with weft and warp tightly, making it difficult to ventilate, and there is a limitation in discharging sweat or heat to the outside. The breathable fabric of sweat is gaining popularity because it has a ventilation line or a vent hole in the warp and / or weft direction and is well ventilated.

An ideal method of fabricating breathable fabrics is to weave the weft and warp yarns in an unfilled portion where the vent line will be formed. However, according to this method, there is a problem that it is difficult to maintain the vent line that is emptied due to collapse of the tissue during the weaving process and the post-weaving process.

A typical method of producing an air-permeable fabric is to weave a warp and / or weft yarn into weft yarns during weaving, and then form an aeration line through removal of the melt yarn. However, even when a breathable fabric is manufactured according to this method, there is often a case where the ventilation line is lost or weakened due to collapse of the tissue during processing after weaving. In general, a method of manufacturing a breathable fabric mainly uses a non-burnishing yarn to focus on the manufacture of a breathable fabric to be used for a jacket or sportswear. Therefore, by applying a processing technique for imparting elasticity, touch feeling, Is still at an early stage.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION Accordingly, it is an object of the present invention to provide a method of manufacturing a breathable fabric that has elasticity and does not collapse even when the melt yarn is removed using a fabric having a warp and weft inserted therein.

Another object of the present invention is to provide a method of fabricating a breathable fabric capable of adjusting the depth of wrinkles in the weft direction by the difference between the expansion and contraction of the stretch yarn inserted in the weft yarn and the stretch yarn inserted in the warp yarn during the reduction process will be.

Another object of the present invention is to provide a method of manufacturing a breathable fabric having a natural and coarse touch characteristic unique to a soft lining by producing a breathable fabric using a fabric including a hard yarn.

It is to be understood that both the foregoing general description and the following detailed description are exemplary and explanatory and are not intended to limit the invention to the precise forms disclosed. Other objects, which will be apparent to those skilled in the art, It will be possible.

According to another aspect of the present invention, there is provided a method of manufacturing a breathable fabric having a coarse touch and a wrinkle in a weft direction, the weft yarn line is repeatedly inserted between the first and second stretch yarn lines on the weft side, A second stretching yarn line and a warp melt yarn line having a larger expansion ratio than the first stretch yarn are regularly and repeatedly inserted between the twisted yarn lines on the oblique side, A weaving process for a fabric in which a yarn line is inserted; The weaved fabric is reduced to a weakly basic solution at a low concentration of 105 to 130 degrees at a high pressure of 2 to 4 atm to form wrinkles in a weft-directional irregular wavy shape corresponding to the difference in elongation and contraction between the first stretch yarn and the second stretch yarn A scaling process for expressing; A thermal fixation step of stretching the reduced fabric to a desired size according to the reduction process, and then applying a high temperature of 180 to 200 degrees to fix the tissue state; And a reducing step of dipping the fabric heat-fixed according to the heat fixation step in a solution of the dissolution agent to remove the dissolution yarns to form a weft line and a ventilation line in an oblique direction.

The breathable fabric manufacturing method is characterized in that the depth of the irregular wavy folds in the weft direction is adjusted according to the difference in elongation and shrinkage between the first stretching yarn and the second stretching yarn in the shrinking step. The first stretching yarn may be a high-stature yarn, and the second stretching yarn may be a spandex yarn. The first stretching yarn may be under stretched and the second stretching yarn may be spun yarn. The first and second stretchers may be under stretched and the second stretcher may be a high stretch.

The method of making a breathable fabric comprises: dyeing and drying the weighted fabric; And a sanforizing process for fixing the tissue of the dried fabric.

The method for producing a breathable fabric according to the present invention can provide an effect of manufacturing a breathable fabric that has elasticity and does not collapse due to the use of a fabric having a warp and weft inserted therein.

The method of manufacturing a breathable manufacturing fabric according to the present invention can provide an effect of adjusting the depth of the wrinkles in the weft direction by the difference in the expansion and contraction of the stretch yarn inserted in the weft yarn and the stretch yarn inserted in the warp yarn during the shrinking process.

In addition, the breathable fabrics manufacturing method according to the present invention can manufacture a breathable fabric using a fabric including a soft yarn, so that a breathable fabric having a natural and coarse touch feeling unique to a cigar life, Effect can be provided.

In addition, the breathable fabric manufacturing method according to the present invention enables air permeable fabrics suitable for women's summer blouses and skirts to be manufactured because they do not stick to the skin due to the touch feeling, cold feeling and wrinkles in the weft direction, Do it.

1 is a flowchart showing an example of a method of manufacturing a breathable fabric having a coarse touch feeling and a wrinkle in a weft direction according to the present invention.
FIGS. 2A and 2B are conceptual views illustrating an example of a breathable fabric applied to the method of manufacturing a breathable fabric according to the present invention.
FIGS. 3A and 3B are conceptual diagrams showing another example of a breathable fabric applied to the breathable fabric according to the present invention.
4A and 4B are conceptual diagrams showing still another example of a breathable fabric applied to the method of manufacturing a breathable fabric according to the present invention.
FIG. 5 is an enlarged view of a fabric subjected to a weaving process according to the method of manufacturing a breathable fabric according to the present invention, FIG. 6 is an enlarged photograph of a fabric subjected to a folding process according to the method of manufacturing a breathable fabric according to the present invention, Fig. 8 is an enlarged photograph of a fabric subjected to a weight reduction process in the breathable fabric manufacturing method according to the present invention, and Fig. 9 is an enlarged photograph of a fabric subjected to a heat setting process according to the present invention. FIG. 5 is an enlarged photograph of a fabric subjected to a dyeing and drying process according to the method of manufacturing a breathable fabric according to the present invention.

For a better understanding of the present invention, its operational advantages and features, and the objects attained by the practice of the present invention, reference should be made to the accompanying drawings, which form a preferred embodiment of the invention, and the accompanying drawings.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS Hereinafter, preferred embodiments of the present invention will be described in detail with reference to the accompanying drawings. Like reference numerals in the drawings denote like elements.

1 is a flowchart showing an example of a method of manufacturing a breathable fabric having a coarse touch feeling and a wrinkle in a weft direction according to the present invention. Fig. 2 shows an example of a fabric used in a method of manufacturing a breathable fabric having a coarse touch and a wrinkle in the direction of weft according to the present invention.

First, a fabric (or a raw material) including a stretch yarn and a dissolution yarn is manufactured in a weft yarn and a warp yarn (S100). The weft yarns are regularly and repeatedly inserted between the first and second stretch yarn lines on the weft side and the warp yarns are stretched between the twisted yarn lines on the oblique side in a larger stretch ratio than the first stretch yarn The second stretch yarn line and the warp melt yarn line are regularly repeatedly inserted, and the second stretch yarn line is inserted into the left and right of the warp yarn line.

A lecture yarn refers to a yarn of about 800 times or more (usually 1,000 to 3,000 times) per 1 m, and is easy to make wrinkles on the surface of the fabric. In addition, when there are many twists, the yarn is firm and the amount of content is decreased, and the warmth is deteriorated, so it is used for summer fabric and gives a cool feeling. The term " stretched yarn " refers to ordinary fibers having elasticity, and may include spandex yarn, high-denomination yarn, low elastic yarn, and the like. As is well known, spandex has a very strong elasticity due to the presence of a stretch material such as polyurethane at the center of the yarn, and a high-stiffness yarn refers to a stretchy yarn which does not contain elastic materials but is strong (but weaker than spandex yarns) A low stretch yarn generally refers to a yarn having a lower stretchability than a stretch yarn that is classified as a high-end housewarming yarn.

As a practical example of such fabric, the yarn is a yarn of 50 to 150 denier thickness having a twist number of 800 to 3,000 T / M, a first stretch yarn is a high tenacity yarn of 75 to 150 denier, It may be a PVA component having a thickness of dyer. This is according to one embodiment of the present invention and the scope of the present invention is not limited thereto.

The method of manufacturing a breathable fabric according to the present invention by the above-described fabric structure can have the following characteristics.

(1) The first stretching yarn and the second stretching yarn inserted in the weft yarns and the warp yarns have a function of preventing the breakage of the yarns due to the void space in which the yarns are removed due to the inherent elasticity even when the yarns are removed in accordance with the process in the future, It plays a role of giving elasticity.

② The lecturer inserts into the slope provides unique touch feeling and also acts as a softness of the whole fabric for the sky. This feature can be expressed more strongly by cutting a part of the laminating yarn in the weight reduction process to remove the soluble yarn in the future.

③ Since the expansion and contraction of the second stretch yarn inserted in the warp in the shrinking process is greater than the expansion and contraction of the first stretch yarn inserted in the weft, wrinkles of atypical wavy shape in the weft direction are expressed after the shrinking process.

The mechanism by which the above-described characteristics are expressed will be described in more detail with reference to FIG. 1 and other drawings.

When this fabric is woven, a wefting process is performed on the fabric and then a weaving and shrinking process is performed to reduce the weaved fabric to a low-concentration weak basic solution at a high pressure of 2 to 4 atm and a high temperature of 105 to 130 degrees (S110). As a result, impurities adhering to the fabric are removed, the density of the fabric is increased, and the expansion and contraction of the second stretch yarn in the warp direction is greater than the expansion and contraction of the first stretch yarn in the weft direction. Wrinkles are expressed.

The low concentration weak basic solution is a sodium carbonate solution having a concentration of 3 to 8%, the time of the reduction process is 1 to 2 hours, and the shrinkage rate in the warp direction by the spun yarn is About 60% to about 80%. On the other hand, in the conventional breathable fabrics manufacturing method, almost all processes such as shrinking, shrinking, and weight reduction are performed at atmospheric pressure of less than 100 ° C. In the present invention, the shrinking and losing process is performed at a relatively high temperature / , It is intended to facilitate the development of wrinkles by treating the hard yarn which is not easily shrunk at a high temperature. In addition, according to such a high-temperature reduction, shrinkage of the stretch yarn in the warp direction is strongly caused, and wrinkle development is facilitated.

After the shrinking and shrinking process is performed, a thermal fixation process is performed in which the reduced fabric is stretched to a desired size and then a high temperature is applied to fix the tissue state (S120). This heat fixation is intended to prevent tissue collapse or fabric twist in future processing steps. The heat fixation process for the fabric as described above can be performed at a high temperature of 180 to 200 degrees after stretching the fabric reduced by 60 to 80% in the warp direction by 30 to 50% by the spun yarn in the shrinking process. The reason why this process is performed at a high temperature, unlike the case where heat setting of a general fabric is performed at 180 or less, is because stronger heat fixing is required in the case of a stretch yarn than in a normal yarn.

When the heat fixing process is performed, the heat-set fabric is immersed in the dissolver solution to remove the dissolving yarn to form a weft and warp ventilation line (S130). In the weight reduction process, part of the laminating yarn is also reduced by about 5 to 20%, so that a softness can be imparted to the entire fabric.

On the other hand, if the melt yarn is removed to form an aeration line, it is highly likely that the structure will collapse due to a subsequent post-processing. In the present invention, both the first and second stretch yarns Since it is strongly thermally fixed, the likelihood of collapse of the tissue is very low even after the dissolving yarn is removed.

After the weight loss process is performed, a dyeing and drying process is performed (S140) in which a desired color is dyed and dried, and then a sanforizing process is performed to fix the tissue state of the dried fabric (S150) . The diffusing process is to fix the tissue state in consideration of the practical use environment of the fabric (for example, the shrinkage rate due to washing is fixed).

As described above, the breathable fabric manufactured according to the present invention is basically breathable, and is suitable for women's summer blouses and skirts because it does not stick to the skin due to touch feeling, cold feeling and wrinkle in the direction of weft.

FIGS. 2A and 2B are conceptual views illustrating an example of a breathable fabric applied to the method of manufacturing a breathable fabric according to the present invention, and a final product.

In the weft of weaving, weft yarn lines are regularly inserted between 10 or more strands of high-density yarns, and in the warp yarns, spun yarn lines and three weft yarns are regularly repeated And a spun yarn line is inserted on the left and right of the melt yarn line (see FIG. 2A).

By using the raw paper of such a structure, after passing through a process of shaking, shrinking, and reducing, a ventilation line is formed in the weft and oblique directions along the spaces (white squares) from which the melting yarns are removed (see FIG. In FIG. 2B, for the sake of convenience of explanation, illustration of the reduction of the fabric and the wrinkles in the weft direction according to the process is omitted.

On the other hand, in the above example, the warp threads are inserted between one strand of spun yarn lines in the warp yarns, but the weft yarn warp yarns 2 are inserted between 10 or more strands of high warp yarn in weft yarns. In case of spun yarn, the elasticity is very strong, so that if the yarn is more than one strand, the yarn is thermally fixed to prevent the breakage of the fabric due to the removal of the yarn of the warp yarn. On the other hand, Which is about 5 times as large as that of the weft yarn, is prevented from being collapsed due to the removal of the weft yarn line. On the other hand, in the present invention, it is preferable that the ratio of the number of high-concentration line lines above and below the weft insertion line to the number of weft insertion lines is 1: 3 to 1: 7.

FIGS. 3A and 3B are conceptual diagrams showing another example of a breathable fabric applied to the method of manufacturing a breathable fabric according to the present invention.

An example of FIG. 3A and FIG. 3B (hereinafter referred to as "FIG. 3") is an example shown in FIG. 2A and FIG. 2B (collectively referred to as "FIG. 2") in which the high residence of weft yarn is replaced by a low stretch yarn. The depth (or degree) of the wrinkles in the weft direction of the breathable fabric in the example of Fig. 3 is deeper than the depth of the wrinkles in Fig. This is because the difference in stretchability between the spun yarn inserted in the warp yarns and the low stretch yarn is larger than the difference in stretchability between the spun yarn and the high yarn stock yarn in Fig. On the other hand, in the present invention, the ratio of the number of low stretch yarn lines above / below the weft yarn line to the number of weft yarn lines should be larger than 1: 3 to 1: 7 in Fig. 2, 1: 5 to 1:10 is preferable. This is because the stretch yarn has a lower elasticity than the high-stature yarn, and therefore, a lower stretch yarn line must be inserted above / under the weft yarn yarn in order to prevent collapse of the fabric due to removal of the melt yarn. This is also true in the examples shown in FIGS. 4A and 4B.

FIGS. 4A and 4B are conceptual diagrams showing another example of a breathable fabric, which is a raw material and an end result, which are applied to the breathable fabric manufacturing method according to the present invention.

4A and 4B (collectively referred to as " FIG. 4 ") is an example in which, in the example shown in FIG. 2, the high-end housing of the weft yarn is a low- The depth (or degree) of the wrinkles in the weft direction of the breathable fabric in the example of Fig. 4 is shallower than the depth of the wrinkles in Fig. The reason for this is that the difference in stretchability between the high-sheath housing inserted in the slope and the low-shear housing is much smaller than the difference in the stretchability between the span housing and the high-housing housing in FIG.

4, the ratio of the number of lines of high resolution to the number of lines of the dissolved yarn is represented by the ratio 2 to 1: 3 of 1: 3 to 1: 5. This is because the number of lecture lines is reduced if the number of high-end lecture lines is too much, and the feature due to lecture history is reduced.

2 to 4, according to the method for fabricating a breathable fabric according to the present invention, in the shrinking process, the stretch shrinkage between the first stretchable yarn inserted in the weft yarn and the second stretchable yarn inserted in the oblique yarn Depending on the difference, the depth of the atypical corrugated wrinkles in the weft direction can be adjusted.

Hereinafter, photographs for explaining the process of fabric change according to the above-described method of manufacturing a breathable fabric according to the present invention will be described. For reference, the fabric is made up of a high-stature staple yarn and a dissolving yarn, and the warp yarns are made of spun yarn, melt yarn, and yarn yarn.

FIG. 5 is an enlarged view of a fabric subjected to a weaving process according to the method of manufacturing a breathable fabric according to the present invention, FIG. 6 is an enlarged photograph of a fabric subjected to a folding process according to the method of manufacturing a breathable fabric according to the present invention, Fig. 8 is an enlarged photograph of a fabric subjected to a weight reduction process in the breathable fabric manufacturing method according to the present invention, and Fig. 9 is an enlarged photograph of a fabric subjected to a heat setting process according to the present invention. FIG. 5 is an enlarged photograph of a fabric subjected to a dyeing and drying process according to the method of manufacturing a breathable fabric according to the present invention.

Comparing FIG. 5 with FIG. 6, as the shrinking process is performed, the fabric is contracted, and wrinkles in the weft direction are expressed by the difference in elongation between the spun yarn of warp yarns and the high- have. 6 and 7, it can be seen that the shrinking process is followed by a thermal fixation process to wrinkle the fabric wrinkled in the shrink-fix. 5 to 7, this is because the color itself of the weft yarn is black, and the black lines in FIGS. 8 and 9 are different from the breathable lines in which the melting yarns are removed .

7 and 8, even after the heat setting process is performed, even though the weight loss process is performed, the dissolving yarn is removed to form a breathable line in the warp and weft directions, and the collapse of the tissue due to the dissolving yarn removing portion . This indicates that the setting for the spun yarn and the high-spinning staple included in the fabric was strongly caused by the strong heat in the previous heat fixing step, so that the structure was prevented from being broken even after the weight loss process was performed in the future.

Referring to FIGS. 7 and 8, after the shrinking process, at least one irregular wavy morph wrinkle is formed in the weft direction. Finally, referring to FIG. 9 where the dyeing and drying process is performed, it can be seen that the irregular wavy wrinkles in the weft direction are strengthened as compared with the photographs of FIGS. 7 and 8, which is affected by the high temperature in the dyeing and drying process The degree of expression of the pattern is strengthened.

While the invention has been shown and described with reference to certain preferred embodiments thereof, it will be understood by those of ordinary skill in the art that various changes in form and details may be made therein without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention as defined by the appended claims. This is possible.

Therefore, the scope of the present invention should not be limited to the described embodiments, but should be determined by the equivalents of the claims, as well as the claims.

100, 100 ', 100 " 200, 200 ', 200 ": breathable fabric

Claims (6)

On the weft yarn side, a weft yarn yarn line is regularly repeatedly inserted between the first and second stretch yarn lines, and on the oblique side, a second stretch yarn line having a larger expansion ratio than the first stretch yarn between the twisted yarn lines And a warp and melt yarn line is regularly and repeatedly inserted into the fabric, wherein the second stretch yarn line is inserted into the left and right of the warp yarn line;
The weaved fabric is shrunk from the low basicity solution of 105 to 130 degrees at a high pressure of 2 to 4 atm to form wrinkles in a weft-shaped irregular wavy shape corresponding to the difference in elongation between the first stretch yarn and the second stretch yarn A scaling process for expressing;
A thermal fixation step of stretching the reduced fabric to a desired size according to the reduction process, and then applying a high temperature of 180 to 200 degrees to fix the tissue state; And
A process for fabricating a breathable fabric having a coarse touch feeling and a wrinkle in the direction of weft, comprising a step of dipping the thermally fixed fabric in the solution of the dissolving agent in accordance with the heat setting step to remove the dissolution yarn to form a weft and an aeration line .
2. The method of claim 1,
Wherein the depth of the irregular wavy folds in the weft direction is adjusted in accordance with the difference in elongation and contraction between the first stretching yarn and the second stretching yarn in the reducing step. Fabric manufacturing method.
3. The method of claim 2, wherein the first stretch yarn is a high-
Characterized in that the second stretching yarn is a spandex yarn, wherein the second stretching yarn is a spandex yarn.
[3] The apparatus according to claim 2, wherein the first stretchable yarn is low in elasticity,
Wherein the second stretching yarn is a spun yarn, and wherein the second stretching yarn is a spun yarn.
[3] The apparatus according to claim 2, wherein the first stretchable yarn is low in elasticity,
Wherein the second stretching yarn is a high-stiffness yarn.
3. The method of claim 2,
Dyeing and drying the weighted fabric; And
Further comprising a sanforizing process to fix the tissue of the dried fabric. ≪ RTI ID = 0.0 > 11. < / RTI >

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