KR20180102827A - Hygrogel type of moisturizing cosmetic composition and manufacturing method thereof - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a hydrogel-type moisturizing cosmetic composition using a self-assembled gel property of a hydrophilically modified lipid macromolecule, and a manufacturing method thereof. The hydrogel-type moisturizing cosmetic composition contains a hydrophilically modified lipid macromolecule having a plurality of lipophilic groups and macromolecular hydrophilic groups. The lipid macromolecule is swelled in a water phase at a high temperature to form a soft bilayer structure and form a stable structure hydrogel by a self-assembled gel property by strong hydrogen bonding between the macromolecular hydrophilic groups when cooled to have a unique appearance of a hydrogel phase of a transparent or translucent phase by combining with an acrylate-based macromolecule facilitating rich moisturization and proper viscosity formation, deliver moisture to the skin, and form a strong skin protection membrane to promote transepidermal absorption of water-soluble or oil-soluble active ingredients that are useful as a moisturizing cosmetic composition.

Description

HYGROGEL TYPE OF MOISTURIZING COSMETIC COMPOSITION AND MANUFACTURING METHOD THEREOF FIELD OF THE INVENTION [0001] The present invention relates to a hydrogel-

The present invention relates to a hydrogel-type moisturizing cosmetic composition and a method for preparing the same, and more particularly, to a hydrogel-based moisturizing cosmetic composition containing a hydrophilic modified lipid polymer having a lipophilic group and a hydrophilic group, Due to the self-assembled nature of the lipid polymer due to strong hydrogen bonding during the polymer hydrophilic period during cooling, the bilayer structure is formed by swelling the lipid polymer in the water phase at a high temperature, A hydrogel type moisturizing cosmetic composition stabilizing an active ingredient in a hydrophilic region of a gel network and an oil soluble active ingredient in a lipophilic region of a bilayer by forming a hydrogel of a stable structure without any additional stabilizer, will be.

Cosmetics have been used in combination with water-soluble moisturizing agents, oil components and a variety of various active ingredients in order to prevent moisture from evaporating from the inside of the skin and to prevent foreign contaminants from penetrating into the skin. Or emulsion form.

Generally, the soluble substance is a form in which a polymeric moisturizing agent such as a low molecular wetting agent (Humaectant), hyaluronic acid, or beta-glucan such as glycerin, butylene glycol and the like is dissolved in water and a small amount of oil component such as perfume is dissolved mainly in ethanol or organic solvent But it has been widely used in the cosmetics industry because it has a light and refreshing feel and a transparent or translucent gel type appearance and is effective for increasing moisture content in the skin and is easily compounded with a water-soluble active ingredient. However, There has been a limit in providing water retention and skin protection against external pollutants.

In order to compensate for these effects, emulsification techniques have been applied to mix wax ingredients such as squalane, jojoba oil, liquid oils such as shea butter, beeswax and the like in a proper manner. However, this is mostly milky white, There is a problem in that it is difficult to satisfy various consumers due to the stronger oiliness than the moisture content and the stabilization of the water-soluble active ingredient is required because a large amount of oil and wax components are required to impart the effect.

Therefore, the related arts have developed various emulsifying techniques to substantially improve skin dryness and troubles as well as merely skin moisturizing effect and user feel feel.

Therefore, in recent cosmetics industry, not only the simple moisturizing effect and feeling improvement but also the effect of skin improvement that can visually recognize the skin's basic moisture retention and skin sensitivity to external pollutants when using cosmetics for a certain period of time, Is becoming an important factor to measure.

Prior art techniques for hydrogel-type cosmetics are mainly based on water-soluble thickeners such as carbomer, cross-linked acrylate-based polymers including sodium polyacrylate, ammonium acryloyldimethylureate / vpicopolymer, sodium acryloyldimethylurate / Picolor, etc., as well as various polymers such as xanthan gum, mannan gum and cellulose gum are hydrated in water to form a gel having an increased viscosity. The gel is applied to the skin to give a rich feeling of moisture, and a thin film Thereby imparting a moisturizing effect has been applied.

In addition, these polymers do not contribute to viscosity formation because they are difficult to impart satisfactory moisturizing effect to consumers. However, it is not possible to make a large contribution to the formation of viscosity. However, since sodium hyaluronate having high water holding capacity, polyquaternium- , Polyglutamic acid and the like, water-soluble moisturizing agents such as glycerin, methylpropanediol, panthenol and the like are used together with cosmetics to develop a thin film formed on the skin to help improve the moisturizing effect.

However, with the above-mentioned water-soluble ingredients alone, the hydrophobicity of the moisturizing film formed on the skin is so low that it reduces the trans epidermal water loss which is caused by moisture in the skin, or the pollutant such as fine dust, It is not enough to act as a shield to prevent harmful microorganisms from penetrating into the skin.

Therefore, it is necessary to develop a technique for enhancing the hydrophobicity of the coating formed on the skin in order to prevent moisture loss or to protect the skin from external contaminants while maintaining a unique characteristic of transparent or translucent in the hydrogel type cosmetic composition.

As a conventional technique for preventing drying due to evaporation of moisture in the skin, Korean Patent No. 445430 discloses a method for improving moisturizing and maintaining ability by providing a moisturizing cosmetic composition containing a polysaccharide extracted from a persimmon leaf, and Korean Patent No. 1154772 By providing a cosmetic composition for skin moisturizing containing jujube extract and walnut extract, hydrophobic lipids contained in jujube extract or walnut extract improve the water holding power of the stratum corneum and restore the barrier function of damaged skin Attempts have been made to enhance the moisturizing skin with lipid components, which are mainly contained in plant extracts.

For the purpose of enhancing the hydrophobicity of the film formed on the skin, the Korean Patent Publication No. 1996-0011219 discloses a cosmetic composition using Snail mucus extract, and cholesterol ester components are mixed at the same time. In Korean Patent No. 1507890, By applying a polyol moisturizing component of 5 to 50% by weight, it is possible to minimize the refractive index difference with the silicone phase to form a hydrophilic film while forming a hydrophilic film, thereby maintaining a moisturizing performance And the like.

However, the conventional transparent or translucent hydrogel technologies have been mainly focused on improving the hydrophobicity of the coating formed on the skin after applying the lipids extracted from the plant to the composition of the thickening agent or using the silicone as the cosmetic material. However, There is a limitation in giving effect.

Further, even if a film having a strong shielding effect is formed, it is not enough to give a unique transparent or semitransparent appearance and a rich moisture feeling at the same time because of a feeling of uncomfortable feeling of being slippery and sticky.

In recent years, due to genetic and environmental factors, the skin has become increasingly dry, and consumers are increasingly worried about skin troubles such as inflammation, itching and erythema. Nonetheless, skin care cosmetics are not yet available, which can radically and satisfactorily appeal to consumers' desire for a rich, but refreshingly moist feel.

Accordingly, the present inventors have made efforts to improve the problems of the prior art and to substantially improve the skin penetration ability of the active ingredient by blocking the moisture, the pollutant, and the skin penetration by forming a strong hydrophobic skin shielding film having a transparent or translucent appearance of the hydrogel cosmetic, The present invention provides a hydrogel-type moisturizing cosmetic comprising a lipophilic polymer and a hydrophilic modified lipid polymer having a lipophilic group and a polymer hydrophilic group, wherein the lipopolymer is swollen at a high temperature to form a soft bilayer structure, Stable hydrogel is formed due to the strong self-assembling property due to strong hydrogen bonding during hydrophilic period, and the water soluble active ingredient is stabilized in the hydrophilic region of the gel network and the oil soluble active ingredient is stabilized in the lipophilic region of the two- Buy a unique hydrogel appearance and emollient oil Provides a hydrogel-type moisturizing cosmetic that promotes the transepidermal absorption of drugs by simultaneously forming a strong shielding barrier on the skin to improve moisture retention and reduce the amount of transdermal water evaporation. Thereby completing the present invention.

It is an object of the present invention to provide a transparent or semitransparent hydrogel type moisturizing cosmetic using self-assembled gel of lipophilic polymers modified by hydrophilicity.

Another object of the present invention is to provide a method for producing the hydrogel-type moisturizing cosmetic composition.

(A) 1 to 15% by weight of a hydrophilic modified lipid polymer, 0.05 to 1% by weight of an acrylate-based thickener, 1 to 10% by weight of a polyhydric alcohol, 0.5 to 10% by weight of a water- % ≪ / RTI > and purified water;

(b) 0.5 to 10 wt% of a polyhydric alcohol, 0.5 to 5 wt% of a nonionic emulsifier, 0.01 to 1 wt% of an oil soluble active ingredient, and 0.001 to 0.5 wt% of a flavoring agent;

(c) 1 to 5% by weight of purified water and 0.01 to 1% by weight of a neutralizing agent; And

(d) 0.05 to 5% by weight of a water-soluble active ingredient, wherein the water-containing moisturizing cosmetic composition is contained in an amount of 100% by weight of purified water in the water-based part minus the sum of the contents of the components do.

Specifically, the hydrophilic modified lipid polymer (a) is a lipid polymer having at least one selected from fatty acids having 12 to 18 hydrocarbon chains bonded to a polymer hydrophilic group having a molecular weight of at least 500 daltons (Dalton) , More specifically, phage-30 distearate, phage-40 distearate, phage-60 distearate, phage-100 distearate, phage-150 distearate, Polyglyceryl-10 tristearate, polyglyceryl-10 tristearate, polyglyceryl-10 trimellitate, polyglyceryl-10 trimellitate, Pentaerythrityl tetrastearate, polyglyceryl-10 distearate, polyglyceryl-10 dipalmitate, and inulin lauryl carbamate. The at least one or more can be selected from.

Further, the acrylate-based thickener of the above-mentioned (a) is preferably selected from the group consisting of a carbomer, an acrylate / C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, an acrylate / beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, At least one kind selected from the group consisting of

The polyhydric alcohol in the (a) aqueous phase or (b) the solubilized portion may be at least one selected from the group consisting of propanediol, methylpropanediol, 1,3-butylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerin, D-panthenol, dipropylene glycol, diglycerin, or a mixture of two or more thereof.

The nonionic emulsifier of the above-mentioned (b) solubilized portion may be selected from the group consisting of Polysorbate 20, Pigi-40 Hydrogenated Chain Oil, Pigi-60 Hydrogenated Chain Oil and Pigi-100 Hydrogenated Chain Oil At least one kind selected from among the above-mentioned materials.

The oil soluble active ingredient in the solubilizing part (b) is a vitamin consisting of vitamin A and its derivatives, vitamin E and its derivatives, vitamin components selected from lipophilic derivatives of vitamin C, coenzyme Q10, idebenone, oleanolic acid and soluble licorice extract Wherein the water-soluble active ingredient in the water-soluble active ingredient part (d) is at least one kind selected from the group consisting of adenosine, arbutin, vitamin C and hydrophilic derivatives thereof, a hydrophilic derivative thereof including vitamin B3, vitamin B5 and vitamin H (S) selected from the group consisting of vitamin and derivatives thereof, Centella asiatica extract including acetyl glucosamine or madecassoside, fermented product obtained by fermentation of yeast and lactic acid bacteria, hydrophilic plant extract and peptide culture obtained through cell culture, Mixtures of two or more thereof may be used.

Accordingly, the present invention provides a method for producing a water-soluble polyurethane foam which comprises (1) 1 to 15% by weight of a hydrophilic modified lipid polymer, 0.05 to 1% by weight of an acrylate-based thickener, 1 to 10% by weight of a polyhydric alcohol, And dissolving by heating at 70 to 85 占 폚 to prepare a water phase portion;

(2) separately preparing 0.5 to 10% by weight of a polyhydric alcohol, 0.5 to 5% by weight of a nonionic emulsifier, 0.01 to 1% by weight of an oil-soluble active ingredient and 0.001 to 0.5%

(3) dissolving 1 to 5% by weight of purified water and 0.01 to 1% by weight of a neutralizing agent at room temperature to prepare a neutralizing agent separately;

(4) The solubilized portion of the step (2) is put into an upper portion of the water which is stabilized while cooling the water receiving portion at 40 to 60 DEG C, and the mixture is stirred at a homomixer of 2,000 to 3,000 rpm. The mixture was stirred at a homomixer of 2,000 to 3,000 rpm, and then a water-soluble active ingredient was added thereto. The mixture was stirred at a homomixer (homo mixer) at 2,000 to 3,000 rpm to prepare a flavor, ; And

(5) stabilizing the viscosity of the formed hydrogel while cooling the hydrogel to 25 to 30 占 폚, thereby providing a method for producing the hydrogel-type moisturizing cosmetic.

The present invention provides a hydrogel-type moisturizing cosmetic composition using a self-assembled gel of a hydrophilic modified lipid polymer according to the present invention, thereby forming a hydrogel having a stable structure, and thus, without using any separate emollient oil Has a unique appearance of a transparent or semitransparent hydrogel state through combination with an acrylate-based polymer which facilitates formation of an adequate viscosity and an excellent moisture feel.

In addition, it is possible to stabilize the active ingredient in the hydrophilic region of the gel network and the lipophilic region in the lipophilic region of the gel network to form a strong skin protective film, The transdermal absorption of drugs can be promoted.

Thus, the hydrogel-type moisturizing cosmetic composition of the present invention provides a fresh feeling of moisture without feeling frigid and sticky oil, and it has a transparent or semitransparent appearance of a hydrogel cosmetic composition and forms a strong hydrophobic skin shielding film, Thereby substantially improving the skin penetration ability of the skin.

1 is a schematic view showing the structure of a hydrogel using a hydrogel and a general incremental polymer using the self-
FIG. 2 is a schematic diagram of viscosity formation of a hydrogel according to the temperature using the self-assembled gel property of the present invention,
3 is a photograph of the appearance of a transparent or semitransparent hydrogel prepared in Example 1 and Example 2 of the present invention,
FIG. 4 is a graph showing the results of water content measurement before and after use of the hydrogel prepared in Example 2 of the present invention,
5 shows the results of measurement of the amount of percutaneous moisture evaporation before and after use of the hydrogel prepared in Example 2 of the present invention,
6 shows the results of measurement of transdermal absorption efficiency of a water-soluble active ingredient in a hydrogel containing the water-soluble active ingredient prepared in Example 2 of the present invention,
Fig. 7 shows the results of measurement of the transdermal absorption efficiency of the oil-soluble active ingredient in the hydrogel containing the oil-soluble active ingredient prepared in Example 2 of the present invention.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.

The present invention provides a composition comprising (a) 1 to 15% by weight of a hydrophilic modified lipid polymer, 0.05 to 1% by weight of an acrylate thickener, 1 to 10% by weight of a polyhydric alcohol, 0.5 to 10% by weight of a water- Top;

(b) 0.5 to 10 wt% of a polyhydric alcohol, 0.5 to 5 wt% of a nonionic emulsifier, 0.01 to 1 wt% of an oil soluble active ingredient, and 0.001 to 0.5 wt% of a flavoring agent;

(c) 1 to 5% by weight of purified water and 0.01 to 1% by weight of a neutralizing agent; And

(d) 0.05 to 5% by weight of a water-soluble active ingredient, wherein the water-containing moisturizing cosmetic composition is contained in an amount of 100% by weight of purified water in the water-based part minus the sum of the contents of the components do.

The characteristics of each composition of the hydrogel-type moisturizing cosmetic composition are described below.

(a) Water top

The hydrophilic modified lipid polymer as the active ingredient of the water phase (a) is a polymer lipid in which at least one selected from fatty acids having 12 to 18 hydrocarbon chains is bonded to a polymer hydrophilic group having a molecular weight of at least 500 daltons, A hydrophilic group of 500 Daltons or more implements a self-assembled property by hydrogen bonding in a cooling process at 60 ° C or less after high-temperature emulsification.

FIG. 1 is a schematic view showing the structure of a hydrogel using a hydrogel and a general incremental polymer using the self-assembled gel of the present invention. In the hydrophilic modified lipid polymer of the present invention, Thereby forming a gel structure in the form of a multi-layer channel, thereby reducing the fluidity of the water phase and imparting hydrophobicity to the film formed on the skin in addition to viscosity formation, thereby imparting excellent moisture shielding ability.

FIG. 2 is a schematic diagram of viscosity formation of a hydrogel according to temperature of the present invention using the characteristics of the self-associating gel of the present invention, in which a polymer type hydrophilic group at a high temperature swells a large number of lipophilic groups in water phase to form a soft two- 60 deg. C, and more preferably 60 deg. C or lower.

In addition, by using the hydrogel using the self-assembled gel property, it is possible to form a strong hydrophobic skin shielding film on the skin during use without using oils and waxes generally used in the industry.

The hydrophilic modified lipid polymer is preferably a lipid in which at least one selected from a fatty acid having 12 to 18 hydrocarbon chains is bonded to a polymer hydrophilic group having a molecular weight of 500 daltons or more. (A) hydrophilic modified lipid polymers contained in the water include, but are not limited to, phage-30 distearate, phage-40 distearate, phage-60 distearate, phage-100 distearate, 150 diestearate, phage-190 distearate, phage-20 methyl glucose distearate, phage-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, phage-150 polyglyceryl-2 tristearate, poly Glyceryl-10 tristearate, phage-150 pentaerythritol tetrastearate, polyglyceryl-10 distearate, polyglyceryl-10 dipalmitate, and inulin lauryl carbamate At least one selected from the above.

The lipophilic polymer modified by hydrophilicity is determined in accordance with a desired viscosity, and preferably 1 to 15% by weight of the total composition is contained. If the content is less than 1% by weight, the multi-layered channel type gel can not be formed on the continuous phase water phase, resulting in poor stability. On the other hand, if the content is more than 15% by weight, There is a problem of becoming unstable.

The acrylate-based thickeners constituting the water phase (a) serve to stably maintain the viscosity formed by the self-assembled gel and improve the moisture sensitivity during use.

Preferred examples of the compound include at least one selected from the group consisting of a carbomer, an acrylate / C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, an acrylate / beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, and an acrylate copolymer .

At this time, the content of the acrylate-based thickener is preferably from 0.05 to 1% by weight of the total composition, and if it is less than 0.05% by weight, the effect on viscosity stability of the formed hydrogel is too small, There is a problem in that it interferes with the gel formation of the multi-layer channel form and loses its characteristic.

(A) a substance for increasing the moisturizing and softening sensation when the cosmetic is applied to the skin in the upper part of the water, and may contain 1 to 10% by weight of a polyhydric alcohol so long as it does not interfere with gel formation in the form of a multilayer channel.

In this case, (a) the polyhydric alcohol in the water phase is a moisturizing component having at least two hydroxyl groups, such as propanediol, methylpropanediol, 1,3-butylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerin, Wherein the water-soluble moisturizing component is a low molecular weight moisturizing component selected from the group consisting of betaine, trehalose, nino At least one member selected from the group consisting of lipid, lipid, lipid, lipid, lipid, lipid, lipid, lipid, lipid, lipid, lipid, lipid, lipid, lipid, lipid and lipid.

In addition, the water-borne moisturizing agent may be contained in an amount ranging from 0.5% by weight to 10% by weight, so as not to interfere with gel formation in the form of a multilayer channel.

(b) Solubilization portion

In the (b) solubilizing part, the polyhydric alcohol can be used in accordance with the content of the substance to be solubilized as a substance used for dissolving the fragrance and the active ingredient. At this time, the polyhydric alcohol is at least one selected from the group consisting of ethanol and a mixture of two or more of polyhydric alcohol components of the water phase (a).

Non-ionic emulsifiers aid in the smooth incorporation of flavor and oil-soluble active ingredients and serve to enhance the transparency of the formulation. Preferable examples are selected from the group consisting of polysorbate 20 having strong hydrophilic properties, phage-40 hydrogenated castor oil, phage-60 hydrogenated castor oil, phage-100 hydrogenated castor oil and the like At least one kind is used.

The content of the nonionic emulsifier is preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, and if it is less than 0.5% by weight, the effect on the stable combination of the oil-soluble ingredients is insignificant, while if it exceeds 5% by weight, the self- There is a problem that the viscosity is lowered.

In addition, the oil-soluble active ingredient may be a known ingredient having excellent skin-improving effect such as skin moisturizing, elasticity, anti-aging, and wrinkle improvement.

More preferably at least one selected from the group consisting of vitamin A and derivatives thereof, vitamin E and derivatives thereof, and lipophilic derivatives of vitamin C, coenzyme Q10, idebanone, oleanolic acid and useful licorice extract The content is determined depending on the activity and solubility of each of the substances, preferably 0.01 to 1% by weight. The above range is not limited to the range in which the solubility and efficacy of these physiologically active ingredients can be exerted And the scope of the present invention is not limited to the above range.

(c) Neutralizing agent

In the neutralizing agent (c), the neutralizing agent may be used for adjusting the pH of the acrylate-based thickener in the aqueous phase (a), and an appropriate amount may be used in accordance with the content of the acrylate-based thickener. Tromethamine, triethanolamine, At least one selected from the group consisting of sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, or a mixture of two or more thereof is used.

(d) The water-soluble active ingredient moiety

The water-soluble active ingredient in the (d) water-soluble active ingredient part is adenosine, arbutin, vitamin C and hydrophilic derivatives thereof, hydrophilic vitamins and derivatives thereof including vitamin B3, vitamin B5 and vitamin H, acetyl glucosamine, At least one selected from the group consisting of Centella asiatica extract including yeasts and fermented products obtained by fermentation of lactic acid bacteria, various plant extracts and peptide components obtained through cell culture, or a mixture of two or more thereof selected from the group consisting of peptide components The content may be determined depending on the activity and solubility of each substance, preferably 0.05 to 5% by weight, and the above range is not particularly limited so long as the solubility and efficacy of these physiologically active ingredients , And the use of this technique is limited to the above range. It is not content.

As shown in FIG. 2, the hydrogel-type moisturizing cosmetic composition of the present invention having the above composition contains hydrophilic modified lipid having hydrophilic property of self-associating gel according to temperature, and is excellent in moisture resistance and viscosity stability, 1% by weight or less, and provides a refreshing moisture feeling in combination with a non-ionic emulsifier that helps improve transparency, without the feeling of stuffiness and sticky oil.

FIG. 3 is a photograph of a transparent or translucent hydrogel prepared in Examples 1 and 2 of the present invention, wherein the hydrogel-type moisturizing cosmetic composition of the present invention is produced by a technique of forming a gel having a high density in a multi- Oil and wax are not used to form a hydrophobic skin barrier on the skin while having a transparent or semitransparent appearance, thereby substantially improving the moisturizing power, blocking pollutants and penetrating the skin of the active ingredient.

As a result of observing the skin improving effect by the hydrogel-type moisturizing cosmetic preparation prepared in Example 2 of the present invention, as shown in the results of FIG. 4 , as a result of measuring the water content before and after using the hydrogel, And as shown in Fig. 5 , the transdermal moisture evaporation amount is reduced, thereby providing a skin improving effect.

In addition, the hydro gel moisturizing cosmetic composition prepared in Example 2 of the present invention are useful active ingredients as shown in toned and percutaneous absorption of the water-soluble active ingredients, as shown in FIG. 6, the surface pressure when applied to the skin occurs percutaneous absorption Is improved.

Further, the present invention provides a process for producing a hydrogel-type moisturizing cosmetic composition.

Specifically, (1) 1 to 15% by weight of a hydrophilic modified lipid polymer, 0.05 to 1% by weight of an acrylate-based thickener, 1 to 10% by weight of a polyhydric alcohol, 0.5 to 10% by weight of a water- And dissolving by heating at 70 to 85 占 폚 to prepare a water phase portion;

(2) separately preparing 0.5 to 10% by weight of a polyhydric alcohol, 0.5 to 5% by weight of a nonionic emulsifier, 0.01 to 1% by weight of an oil-soluble active ingredient and 0.001 to 0.5%

(3) dissolving 1 to 5% by weight of purified water and 0.01 to 1% by weight of a neutralizing agent at room temperature to prepare a neutralizing agent separately;

(4) The solubilized portion of the step (2) is put into an upper portion of the water which has been stabilized while cooling the water-receiving portion at 40 to 60 ° C, and the resulting mixture is stirred and mixed at a homomixer of 2,000 to 3,000 rpm. The mixture was stirred at a homomixer of 2,000 to 3,000 rpm, and then a water-soluble active ingredient was added thereto. The mixture was stirred at a homomixer (homo mixer) at 2,000 to 3,000 rpm to prepare a flavor, ; And

(5) stabilizing the viscosity while cooling the formed hydrogel to 25 to 30 占 폚.

In the method for producing a hydrogel-type moisturizing cosmetic composition according to the present invention, it is preferable to heat the water-absorbing part in the range of 70 to 85 ° C as the hydrophilic modified lipid and acrylate-based thickeners are smoothly swollen in the step (1) Do. At this time, if the temperature is lower than the above temperature, some of the lipids do not melt or swell properly and do not deposit or form a desired viscosity. If the temperature is higher than the above temperature, there is a problem such as discoloration and detachment.

In the step (4), the water phase dissolved in the step (1) is cooled and stabilized at 40 to 60 DEG C to form a bilayer structure (A-1) soft at high temperature, The modified polymeric lipid and acrylate-based thickener is swelled to form a liquid phase (A-2), and a solid two-layer structure (B-1) is formed by van der Waals forces between lipids in the lipid- ), Forming a gel network in the hydrophilic region (B-2) due to the self-assembled property due to strong hydrogen bonding during the polymer hydrophilic period, thereby forming a strong hydrophobic barrier on the skin while having moisture sensitivity , Provides a high moisturizing effect, and protects contaminants from the outside, thereby improving drying and trouble at the same time.

Therefore, by forming the high-density multi-layer channel type hydrogel according to the temperature control of the water-containing part containing the hydrophilic modified polymeric lipid, the water-soluble active ingredient can be added to the hydrophilic area of the gel network, The oil soluble active ingredient that is solubilized in the lipophilic region on the surface is stabilized.

In the method for producing a hydrogel type moisturizing cosmetic composition of the present invention, the viscosity is adjusted to 20,000 to 40,000 cps, more preferably 27,000 to 36,000 cps in step (5) to stabilize it.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to Examples.

The present invention is intended to more specifically illustrate the present invention, and the scope of the present invention is not limited to these embodiments.

< Example  1 to 3> Hydrogel type  Moisturizing Cosmetic  Produce

The composition and content of the water phase (a) shown in the following Table 1 were put into a dissolution tank and heated to 80 DEG C to dissolve. The solution was cooled to 50 DEG C with a paddle mixer at 25 rpm while stirring slowly, (B) dissolving the composition and content of the solubilized part (b) shown in the following Table 1 at a measuring and room temperature, and dissolving the composition and content of the neutralizing agent shown in Table 1 below in a separate melting tank at a measuring and room temperature, Prepared. The solubilized portion (b) prepared separately was put into a dissolution tank containing the water phase (a) and mixed using a homomixer (HOMO MIXER) at a speed of 2,500 rpm for 5 minutes. Next, (c) the neutralizing agent part was added again and mixed for 3 minutes at a rate of 2,500 rpm using a homomixer, and then (d) a water-soluble physiologically active ingredient part was added and a homomixer (HOMO MIXER) was used And mixed at a rate of 2,500 rpm for 3 minutes to prepare a hydrogel phase. To prepare an aqueous emulsion phase of several to several tens of micrometers in size. Thereafter, the hydrogel phase was cooled and stabilized at 30 rpm using a paddle mixer at 25 rpm with gentle stirring to obtain a viscous hydrogel-type moisturizing cosmetic having a viscosity of 27,000 cps.

< Comparative Example  1 to 6> Hydrogel type  Moisturizing Cosmetic  Produce

The composition was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the composition and content were as shown in Table 1 below.

In the case of the hydrogel compositions of Examples 1 to 3 prepared according to the changes in the content of the hydrophilic modified lipid polymer in Table 1, the acrylate-type thickener of the water phase, the nonionic emulsifier of the solubilized portion and the neutralizer of the neutralizer portion were balanced A stable hydrogel was formed at 27,000 to 36,000 cps. When applying the hydrogel to the skin, the feeling of feeling of moisture and the finish feeling without tackiness appeared in the order of Example 1> Example 2> Example 3, and on the contrary, the strong skin barrier film forming ability was as follows: Example 3> Example 2> .

In addition, the transparency of the product is shown in Example 1 as transparent, in Example 2 as fine suspension, and as Example 3 as translucent, and as a main ingredient to form the viscosity of the hydrogel, the product is modified to be hydrophilic in accordance with the intended feeling, It is confirmed that the use of the modified lipid polymer and the acrylate-based thickener can be easily adjusted.

FIG. 3 is a photograph of the appearance of the hydrogel compositions prepared in Example 1 and Example 2, which can be visually confirmed as being transparent or translucent.

In addition, the hydrogel compositions prepared in Examples 1 to 3 were observed for 3 months at 45 ° C for 3 months, at cycles of -5 ° C, 0 ° C, 25 ° C and 40 ° C for 6 hours / However, transparency and properties were kept stable [not shown].

The composition of Comparative Example 1 of the composition of Table 1 shows that when the content of hydrophilic modified lipid polymer is 0.5% by weight or less, which is a main component forming the hydrogel, viscosity is formed by an acrylate-based thickener, There was no big problem, but when applied to skin, the effect of forming a hydrophobic coating was very small, and there was no difference from ordinary water gel.

On the other hand, in Comparative Example 2, the hydrophilic-modified lipid polymer content exceeded the preferable content range. Even if the acrylate-based thickening agent was reduced to a minimum, the viscosity was excessively increased from the process of swelling at a high temperature, And there was a problem of precipitation during cooling.

In Comparative Example 3, a composition prepared by using an acrylate-based thickener in an amount lower than the preferred range to compensate for viscosity formed by a hydrophilic modified lipid polymer in hydrogel formation and maintaining the stability over time, When the lipid polymer content was maximized, the viscosity was somewhat formed at 19,000 cps. However, the viscosity was lower than that of Example 3, and the viscosity was lowered at 45 ° C. for 2 weeks (-5 ° C., 0 ° C., 25 ° C., / Day circulation), the viscosity was reduced from 1 month and the turbidity became worse and became unstable.

On the contrary, Comparative Example 4 was a composition prepared by exceeding the content of the acrylate-based thickener in a preferable range, and there was no problem in the process of swelling at a high temperature, but the self-assembling property of the lipid- Thereby forming a partially hydrolyzed or non-uniform hydrogel.

Comparative Example 5 is a composition prepared by supplementing the transparency of a hydrogel and containing a nonionic emulsifier content of less than a desirable content range to help stably formulate an oil soluble active ingredient and a flavor, Turbidity was increased from 2 weeks at 45 ℃ for 1 week, cycle (-5 ℃, 0 ℃, 25 ℃, 40 ℃ 6 hours / day circulation) And the result of separation becomes unstable.

On the other hand, the composition of Comparative Example 6 was prepared with the content of the nonionic emulsifier exceeding the preferable range of content. As a result, introduction of excessive hydrophilicity interfered with gel formation resulting in self-associating properties, And the hydrophilic modified lipid polymer was precipitated from 1 week at 45 ° C for 2 weeks at cycles (-5 ° C, 0 ° C, 25 ° C and 40 ° C for 6 hours / day circulation) Showed the result of termination.

< Experimental Example  1> Hydrogel type  Moisturizing Cosmetic  Evaluation of skin improvement effect

In order to observe the skin improvement effect of the compositions prepared in Table 1, the hydrogel compositions of Example 2 and Comparative Example 1 were selected and moisturized when they were applied to the skin. In this case, the immediate moisturizing effect was measured with a skin moisture meter (Corneometer, CK electronics, Germany), and the results are shown in FIG. 4. The skin barrier restoration transdermal moisture evaporation amount measuring instrument (Tewameter, CK electronics, Germany) 5 shows the results.

4, the hydrogel composition prepared in Example 2 retained a water content higher than 80% as compared with that before use even after 9 hours, whereas the hydrogel composition prepared in Comparative Example 1 showed a moisturizing effect And after that, the moisturizing effect dropped sharply.

As shown in FIG. 5, the hydrogel composition prepared in Example 2 was found to have a healthy skin barrier because the amount of percutaneous water evaporation decreased to 1/3 after one month of use in the morning and evening, The hydrogels of the present invention were confirmed to have a similar amount of percutaneous water evaporation after one month of use under the same conditions. Therefore, it was confirmed that the hydrogel composition of the present invention itself provides a high moisturizing effect to the skin.

< Experimental Example  2> Hydrogel type  Moisturizing Cosmetic Percutaneous absorption  Increased effectiveness evaluation

When the hydrogel composition prepared in Example 2 and Comparative Example 1 was applied to actual skin, the amount of percutaneous absorption of the active ingredients used was measured. At this time, niacinamide was used as a water-soluble active ingredient, and tocopheryl acetate was used as an oil-soluble active ingredient.

Specifically, 0.1 g of each of the hydrogel compositions prepared in Example 2 and Comparative Example 1 was placed in an enhancer cell (ERWEKA, Germany) equipped with an actual human skin (65-year-old man's back plate, Hans Biomed) , 500 ml of a buffer solution having a pH of about 7.0 with sodium chloride was added and the elution amount of each of the water-soluble or oil-soluble active substances was periodically measured by high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) for 12 hours by adjusting the temperature to 37 캜, , Japan, Shimadzu, LC-10VP). At this time, a dissolution tester (ERWEKA DT800 Dissolution Tester, Germany) was used for transdermal absorption, which indicates the skin penetration effect of each active ingredient.

As a result, as shown in FIG. 6 and FIG. 7, the elution amount curve with time after 12 hours of the active ingredient showed a slight difference depending on the water-soluble property or the oil-soluble property, The composition exhibited a dissolution curve having a far better dermal absorption rate than the composition of Comparative Example 1. From the above results, after 12 hours, the hydrogel composition of Example 2 confirmed the elution amount of tocopheryl acetate, which is useful as 90% of the initially introduced amount and 83% of the water-soluble niacinamide.

On the other hand, the composition of Comparative Example 1 showed a dissolution amount of 32% based on the initial amount of the active ingredient, tocopheryl acetate, and 25% of the initial applied amount of the water-soluble active ingredient, niacinamide.

From the above, it can be seen that the hydrogel composition prepared by the self-associating property of the hydrophilic modified lipid polymer forms a strong moisture-blocking film on the skin, and the elution of the excellent active ingredient with respect to the amount of elution generally obtained due to the surface pressure of the moisture- The effect was confirmed.

As described above, the present invention provides a cosmetic composition which not only imparts a high moisturizing effect to a cosmetic product, but also provides a hydrogel which promotes penetration of an active ingredient, while having a unique appearance of a hydrogel of transparent or semitransparent property without using an emollient oil separately. Gel type moisturizing cosmetic.

The hydrogel type moisturizing cosmetic composition of the present invention is characterized in that a lipid polymer having a plurality of lipophilic groups and a polymer hydrophilic group is swollen to water at high temperature and hydrophilically modified lipid polymers having self- And has an appearance of a transparent or translucent hydrogel state through combination with an acrylate-based polymer which facilitates the formation of a sufficient moisture and an appropriate viscosity. In addition, Thereby giving an effect of promoting transepidermal absorption of drugs.

In addition, the hydrogel-type moisturizing cosmetic composition of the present invention can stabilize an oil-soluble active ingredient without a separate stabilizer by enhancing transparency and using a nonionic emulsifier that stably forms an oil-soluble ingredient.

While the invention has been shown and described with reference to certain exemplary embodiments thereof, it will be understood by those skilled in the art that various changes and modifications may be made without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention as defined by the appended claims.

1: Hydrogel of self-associating lipid
100: hydrogel of a general incremental polymer
10: Two-layer structure
20: solubilized oil-soluble component particles
A-1: Soft two-layer structure
A-2: Swelling in combination with water (Liquid)
B-1: Solid two-layer structure
B-2: Formation of network by self-association

Claims (9)

(a) an aqueous phase comprising 1 to 15% by weight of hydrophilic modified lipid polymers, 0.05 to 1% by weight of an acrylate-based thickener, 1 to 10% by weight of a polyhydric alcohol, 0.5 to 10% by weight of a water-soluble moisturizer, and purified water;
(b) 0.5 to 10 wt% of a polyhydric alcohol, 0.5 to 5 wt% of a nonionic emulsifier, 0.01 to 1 wt% of an oil soluble active ingredient, and 0.001 to 0.5 wt% of a flavoring agent;
(c) 1 to 5% by weight of purified water and 0.01 to 1% by weight of a neutralizing agent; And
and (d) 0.05 to 5% by weight of a water-soluble active ingredient. The hydrogel-type moisturizing cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the amount of purified water in the water-based part is 100% by weight minus the sum of the contents of the components. The liposome according to claim 1, wherein the hydrophilic modified lipid polymer (a) is a lipid polymer having at least one selected from fatty acids having 12 to 18 hydrocarbon chains bonded to a polymer hydrophilic group having a molecular weight of at least 500 daltons Wherein the hydrogel-type moisturizing cosmetic composition is a hydrogel-type moisturizing cosmetic. The liposome according to claim 2, wherein the hydrophilic modified lipid polymer (a) is at least one selected from the group consisting of Pigment-30 distearate, Pigment-40 distearate, Pigment-60 distearate, 150 diestearate, phage-190 distearate, phage-20 methyl glucose distearate, phage-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, phage-150 polyglyceryl-2 tristearate, Polyglyceryl-10 dicarboxylate, polyglyceryl-10 tristeriate, phage-150 pentaerythrityl tetrastearate, polyglyceryl-10 distearate, polyglyceryl-10 dipalmitate, and inulin lauryl carbamate Wherein the hydrogel-type moisturizing cosmetic is at least one selected from the group consisting of hydrogel-type moisturizing cosmetics. Claim 2, wherein in said contacting step (a) an acrylate-based growing I carbomers, acrylates / C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ alkyl acrylate cross polymer, acrylate / behe Ness -25 methacrylate copolymer, acrylate copolymer in Wherein the hydrogel-type moisturizing cosmetic composition is at least one selected from the group consisting of water-soluble polymers. The method according to claim 1, wherein the polyhydric alcohol (a) or (b) is at least one selected from the group consisting of propanediol, methylpropanediol, 1,3-butylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerin, Diol, D-panthenol, dipropylene glycol, diglycerin, or a mixture of two or more thereof. The composition of claim 1, wherein the nonionic emulsifier (b) is selected from the group consisting of polysorbate 20, phage-40 hydrogenated castor oil, phage-60 hydrogenated castor oil, and phage-100 hydrogenated castor oil. Wherein the hydrogel-type moisturizing cosmetic is at least one selected from the group consisting of water-soluble polymers. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the oil soluble active ingredient of (b) is selected from the group consisting of vitamin A and its derivatives, vitamin E and its derivatives, and lipophilic derivatives of vitamin C, coenzyme Q10, idenone, oleanolic acid, Wherein the hydrogel-type moisturizing cosmetic is at least one selected from the group consisting of water-soluble and water-soluble extracts. The pharmaceutical composition according to claim 1, wherein the water-soluble active ingredient of (d) is adenosine, arbutin, vitamin C and hydrophilic derivatives thereof, hydrophilic vitamins and derivatives thereof including vitamin B3, vitamin B5, vitamin H, acetylglucosamine, (S) selected from the group consisting of fermented products obtained by fermentation of yeasts and lactic acid bacteria, plant extracts, and peptide components obtained by cell culture, or mixtures of two or more thereof, Gel type moisturizing cosmetics. (1) 1 to 15% by weight of a hydrophilic modified lipid polymer, 0.05 to 1% by weight of an acrylate-based thickener, 1 to 10% by weight of a polyhydric alcohol, 0.5 to 10% by weight of a water- To prepare a water phase portion;
(2) separately preparing 0.5 to 10% by weight of a polyhydric alcohol, 0.5 to 5% by weight of a nonionic emulsifier, 0.01 to 1% by weight of an oil-soluble active ingredient and 0.001 to 0.5%
(3) dissolving 1 to 5% by weight of purified water and 0.01 to 1% by weight of a neutralizing agent at room temperature to prepare a neutralizing agent separately;
(4) The solubilized portion of the step (2) is put into an upper portion of the water which is stabilized while cooling the water receiving portion at 40 to 60 DEG C, and the mixture is stirred at a homomixer of 2,000 to 3,000 rpm. The mixture was stirred at a homomixer of 2,000 to 3,000 rpm, and then a water-soluble active ingredient was added thereto. The mixture was stirred at a homomixer (homo mixer) at 2,000 to 3,000 rpm to prepare a flavor, ;
(5) stabilizing the viscosity of the formed hydrogel while cooling the hydrogel to 25 to 30 占 폚.

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