KR20180036678A - The method for manufacturing palse twisted yarns for a velvet fabric - Google Patents

The method for manufacturing palse twisted yarns for a velvet fabric Download PDF

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KR20180036678A
KR20180036678A KR1020180037348A KR20180037348A KR20180036678A KR 20180036678 A KR20180036678 A KR 20180036678A KR 1020180037348 A KR1020180037348 A KR 1020180037348A KR 20180037348 A KR20180037348 A KR 20180037348A KR 20180036678 A KR20180036678 A KR 20180036678A
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South Korea
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yarn
false
velvet fabric
twist
manufacturing
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KR1020180037348A
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Korean (ko)
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KR101940473B1 (en
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양승갑
김대희
김민철
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도레이첨단소재 주식회사
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G1/00Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics
    • D02G1/02Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics by twisting, fixing the twist and backtwisting, i.e. by imparting false twist
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D01NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
    • D01DMECHANICAL METHODS OR APPARATUS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS
    • D01D5/00Formation of filaments, threads, or the like
    • D01D5/253Formation of filaments, threads, or the like with a non-circular cross section; Spinnerette packs therefor
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G1/00Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics
    • D02G1/02Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics by twisting, fixing the twist and backtwisting, i.e. by imparting false twist
    • D02G1/0206Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics by twisting, fixing the twist and backtwisting, i.e. by imparting false twist by false-twisting
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02JFINISHING OR DRESSING OF FILAMENTS, YARNS, THREADS, CORDS, ROPES OR THE LIKE
    • D02J1/00Modifying the structure or properties resulting from a particular structure; Modifying, retaining, or restoring the physical form or cross-sectional shape, e.g. by use of dies or squeeze rollers
    • D02J1/22Stretching or tensioning, shrinking or relaxing, e.g. by use of overfeed and underfeed apparatus, or preventing stretch

Abstract

The present invention relates to a false-twist yarn and a manufacturing method thereof. The false-twist yarn can be excellently provided for velvet fabric including short pile (wool) fabric such as corduroy, boa, and moquette by improving tactility of the velvet fabric and solving a pile falling problem, by being manufactured with partially oriented false-twist yarn by using a flat microfiber. The manufacturing method for a false-twist yarn for velvet fabric comprises: a step of manufacturing flat yarn with a single yarn fineness of 1.0 denier or less by using a spinneret for a modified cross-section fiber, which includes a discharge hole having a linear cross section or a linear cross section with one or more projections, and having the width of 0.05-0.15 mm and having that the ratio of the length to the width is five or more; and a step of performing false-twisting by supplying the flat yarn to a first heater inside a false-twisting device and making the flat yarn pass the heater, and drawing at the ratio of 1.5-2.0. Therefore, the false-twist yarn for velvet fabric and the manufacturing method can improve tactility of manufactured velvet fabric and can excellently solve a pile falling problem, by specifically regulating a production spinneret and a single yarn fineness of flat yarn and by manufacturing false-twist yarn for velvet fabric according to specific conditions of this present invention by using the manufactured flat yarn through a false-twist device.

Description

벨벳 직물용 가연사의 제조방법{The method for manufacturing palse twisted yarns for a velvet fabric}BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention [0001] The present invention relates to a method for manufacturing a twisted yarn for a velvet fabric,

본 발명은 벨벳 직물용 가연사의 제조방법에 관한 것으로, 더욱 자세하게는 극세편평단면 부분연신사를 이용하여 가연사로 제조하므로 촉감의 향상과 파일 빠짐을 개선하여 벨벳을 비롯하여 코듀로이, 보아, 모켓 등의 단파일 직물에 우수하게 제공되어 질 수 있는 벨벳 직물용 가연사의 제조방법에 관한 것이다.The present invention relates to a method for producing a false-twist yarn for a velvet fabric, and more particularly, to a method for producing a false-twist yarn for a velvet fabric, The present invention relates to a method for producing a false-twist yarn for a velvet fabric which can be provided excellently on a pile fabric.

일반적으로 벨벳 직물은 이중직으로 제직하여 가운데를 컷팅함으로써 원단의 한면에 파일(잔털)이 형성되도록한 직물을 지칭하는 것으로, 이러한 벨벳 직물은 표면의 촉감이나 질감이 좋아서 의복지로 많이 선호되고 있다. 통상 벨벳 직물은 표면의 조직감이 드러나지 않게 하고 파일에 방향성을 형성하여 약간의 광택감을 부여함으로써 풍성한 표면 효과를 발현시킬 수 있고, 색상을 다양하게 할 수 있을 뿐만 아니라 파일 길이 및 직조방법에 따라서 표면에 다양한 조직감을 부여할 수 있어서 주로 여성 및 남성용 의복과 캐주얼 웨어에 널리 사용되고 있다. In general, a velvet fabric is a fabric that is formed by folding a double-layered fabric so as to form a pile (fleecy) on one side of the fabric by cutting the middle portion. Such a velvet fabric is preferred as a garment fabric because of its good surface texture and texture. In general, velvet fabrics are capable of manifesting a rich surface effect by making the texture of the surface not to be exposed and forming a directionality in the pile to give a slight glossiness, and in addition to being able to vary the color, It is widely used for women's and men's clothing and casual wear because it can give various texture.

그런데, 종래에 지사와 파일사를 각각 면사/면사, 면사/혼방사, 폴리 방적사/폴리 방적사 등 각종 방적사를 이용하거나 아세테이트 또는 레이온을 사용한 벨벳직물이 알려져 있으나, 방적사의 경우 촉감이 거칠고, 구김이 많이 생겨서 캐주얼 웨어로 사용하기에는 부적합하고, 또 일반 합섬 필라멘트를 사용한 벨벳 직물은 상기의 단점을 보완할 수 있어 제한적인 용도를 광범위하게 확장시킬 수는 있으나, 촉감이 면등의 천연섬유와 같이 부드럽지 않으며 파일 빠짐현상이 발생하여 제품 표면 및 촉감의 품위가 불량해지는 문제점이 있다However, conventionally, a velvet fabric using various yarns such as cotton yarn / cotton yarn, cotton yarn / blend yarn, poly yarn yarn / poly yarn yarn, or acetate yarn or rayon yarn has been known as the branch yarn and filament yarn respectively. However, It is unsuitable for use as a casual wear, and a velvet fabric using a general synthetic filament can compensate for the above disadvantages and can broadly be used for a limited range of applications, but it is not as soft as natural fibers such as cotton, There is a problem that the quality of the product surface and the touch is poor

한편, 상기한 종래의 문제점을 해결하기 위한 다양한 제안들이 있어 왔는데, 예를 들어, 대한민국 특허공개공보 제2006-0123820호는 입모성 및 광택이 우수한 벨벳직물용 이형단면폴리에스테르 섬유의 제조방법 및 그 제조방법으로 제조된 벨벳류 직물에 대한 것으로, "단면이 중앙부가 상하로 돌출된 아령형 이형단면사로 된 것을 특징으로 하는 벨벳직물용 이형단면 폴리에스테르 섬유"를 개시하고 있다. 또한 대한민국 특허공개공보 제2006-0082598호의 벨벳직물 및 그 제조방법에서 파일부를 형성할 파일사로는 레이온사를 선택하는 것을 개시하고 있다. For example, Korean Patent Laid-Open Publication No. 2006-0123820 discloses a method for producing a cross-section polyester fiber for a velvet fabric having excellent wettability and gloss and a method for producing the cross- The present invention relates to a velvet fabric made by a manufacturing method, and discloses a "cross-sectionally-shaped polyester fiber for a velvet fabric" characterized in that the cross section is formed by a dumbbell-shaped cross-section yarn protruding up and down at a central portion. In addition, Korean Patent Laid-Open Publication No. 2006-0082598 discloses selecting a rayon yarn as a pile yarn for forming a pile portion in a velvet fabric and a manufacturing method thereof.

그러나, 상기 첫 번째 방법은 단지 단면의 변형만으로는 벨벳 촉감 향상에는 한계가 있다는 문제점이 있으며, 두 번째 방법은 또한 벨벳의 촉감을 향상시키기위해 고가의 레이온사를 사용하고 있으며 또한 상기 방법으로는 파일 빠짐을 완전하게 방지할 수 없다는 문제점이 있다. However, the first method has a problem that the improvement of the velvet feeling is limited only by the deformation of the cross section, and the second method also uses the expensive rayon yarn in order to improve the feel of the velvet, Can not be completely prevented.

특허문헌 1: 대한민국 특허공개공보 제2006-0123820호Patent Document 1: Korean Patent Laid-Open Publication No. 2006-0123820 특허문헌 2: 대한민국 특허공개공보 제2006-0082598호Patent Document 2: Korean Patent Laid-Open Publication No. 2006-0082598

따라서, 본 발명은 상기한 종래 기술에 있어서의 기술적 문제점을 감안하여 된 것으로, 본 발명의 주목적은 벨벳류로 원사로 사용시 제조된 벨벳의 촉감을 향상할 수 있으면서 파일의 빠짐을 개선할 수 있는 벨벳 직물용 가연사를 제공하기 위한 것이다.SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION It is therefore an object of the present invention to provide a velvet which can improve the feel of a velvet manufactured when used as a yarn in a yarn, To provide a false twist yarn for fabrics.

본 발명의 다른 목적은 상기한 우수한 특성을 가지는 벨벳 직물용 가연사의 보다 용이한 제조방법을 제공하기 위한 것이다.Another object of the present invention is to provide a method for manufacturing a false-twist yarn for a velvet fabric having the above excellent properties.

본 발명은 또한 상기한 명확한 목적 이외에 본 명세서의 전반적인 기술로부터 이 분야의 통상인에 의해 용이하게 도출될 수 있는 다른 목적을 달성함을 그 목적으로 할 수 있다.The present invention may also be directed to accomplishing other objects that can be easily derived by those skilled in the art from the overall description of the present specification, other than the above-described and obvious objects.

상기 목적을 달성하기 위한 본 발명의 벨벳 직물용 가연사의 제조방법은;According to another aspect of the present invention, there is provided a method of manufacturing a false-twist yarn for a velvet fabric,

편평단면 부분연신사를 제조함에 있어서, 단면이 일(-)자형 또는 1개 이상의 요철을 가지는 일자형으로 토출홀이 형성되어 있되 토출홀의 폭은 0.05 내지 0.15mm이고, 토출홀의 길이/토출홀의 폭은 5 이상인 이형단면사용 방사구금을 사용하여 단사섬도 1.0데니어를 넘지 않도록 편평단면 부분연신사를 제조하는 단계; 및In producing the partially-sectionally-stretched partially drawn sheet, a discharge hole is formed in a straight shape having a cross-section of a negative (-) shape or at least one concavo-convex shape, the width of the discharge hole is 0.05 to 0.15 mm and the length of the discharge hole / 5 or more; using a spinneret to produce a flat sectionally stretched yarn so that the single yarn size does not exceed 1.0 denier; And

상기 편평단면 부분연신사를 가연기내에 위치하는 제1 히터에 공급하여 상기 히터를 통과시키면서 가연기로 가연하고 1.5 내지 2.0의 연신비로 연신하는 단계에 의해 제조함을 특징으로 한다.And the step of stretching the flat cross-section partially stretched filaments to a first heater positioned in a combustor and twisting the filaments into a combustor while passing through the heater and stretching at a stretching ratio of 1.5 to 2.0.

본 발명의 다른 구성에 따르면, 상기 편평단면 부분연신사의 신도는 90 내지 150% 수준이 됨을 특징으로 한다.According to another aspect of the present invention, the elongation of the flat cross-section partially stretched yarn is in the range of 90 to 150%.

본 발명의 또 다른 구성에 따르면, 상기 사를 가연기 내의 제1 히터에 공급하여 가연사를 생산하는 속도는 500 내지 800mpm으로 함을 특징으로 한다.According to still another aspect of the present invention, the yarn is supplied to the first heater in the combustor to produce a false-twist yarn at a speed of 500 to 800 mpm.

본 발명의 또 다른 구성에 따르면, 상기 제1 히터의 온도는 170 내지 200℃로 유지함을 특징으로 한다.According to another embodiment of the present invention, the temperature of the first heater is maintained at 170 to 200 ° C.

본 발명의 또 다른 구성에 따르면, 상기 가연사 물성은 신도 25% 이상이고 강도는 3.5g/de 이상임을 특징으로 한다.According to another embodiment of the present invention, the false-twist property is characterized by an elongation of 25% or more and a strength of 3.5 g / de or more.

본 발명의 또 다른 구성에 따르면, 상기 가연사 토크가 50 내지 100으로 설정됨을 특징으로 한다.According to still another aspect of the present invention, the twisting yarn torque is set to 50 to 100. [

상기 다른 목적을 달성하기 위한 본 발명의 벨벳 직물용 가연사는;According to another aspect of the present invention, there is provided a false twist yarn for a velvet fabric,

편평사를 제조함에 있어서, 단면이 일(-)자형 또는 1개 이상의 요철을 가지는 일자형으로 토출홀이 형성되어 있되 토출홀의 폭은 0.05 내지 0.15mm이고, 토출홀의 길이/토출홀의 폭은 5 이상인 이형단면사용 방사구금을 사용하여 단사섬도 1.0데니어를 넘지 않도록 편평사를 제조하는 단계; 및In producing a flat yarn, a discharge hole is formed in a straight shape having a cross section of a negative (-) shape or one or more irregularities, the width of the discharge hole is 0.05 to 0.15 mm and the width of the discharge hole / discharge hole is 5 or more Preparing a flat yarn such that the single yarn fineness does not exceed 1.0 denier by using the single use spinneret; And

상기 편평사를 가연기 내에 위치하는 제1 히터에 공급하여 상기 히터를 통과시키면서 가연기로 가연하고 1.5 내지 2.0의 연신비로 연신하는 단계에 의해 제조하여 얻은 것임을 특징으로 한다.The flat yarn is supplied to a first heater located in the combustor and is wound around the heater while being twisted with a combustor and stretched at a stretching ratio of 1.5 to 2.0.

상기와 같이 구성되는 본 발명의 벨벳 직물용 가연사 및 그 제조방법은 편평사의 생산 구금 및 단사섬도를 특정하게 조절하고 그리고 이렇게 생산된 편평사를 가연기를 통해 본 발명의 특정한 조건에 따라 가연사를 제조하여 벨벳 직물용 가연사로 제공하므로 제조된 벨벳의 촉감을 향상할 수 있으면서 파일 빠짐이 우수하게 개선되게 하여 상기한 종래의 문제점을 해결하였다.The false-twist yarns for the velvet fabric of the present invention and the method for fabricating the twist yarns of the present invention having the above-described structure can be produced by adjusting the production cut-off and single yarn fineness of the flat yarn to a specific degree, So that it is possible to improve the tactile feeling of the manufactured velvet and to improve the file detachment, thereby solving the above-mentioned conventional problems.

도 1은 본 발명의 바람직한 실시형태에 따른 가연기를 사용하여 편평사를 가연사로 생산하는 공정을 개략적으로 나타낸 공정 개략도이고,
도 2는 본 발명에 따른 벨벳 직물용 가연사의 생산에 사용되는 편평사를 생산하는 바람직한 방사구금의 단면의 예를 도시한 방사구금 단면도이고,
도 3은 본 발명에 따른 벨벳 직물용 가연사의 생산에 사용되는 방사구금을 이용하여 방사한 부분연신사의 단면사진이고,
도 4는 볼 발명에 따른 벨벳 직물 가연가공사의 단면사진이다.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS Fig. 1 is a schematic process drawing schematically showing a process for producing flat yarn as a twist yarn using a combustor according to a preferred embodiment of the present invention,
2 is a cross-sectional view of a spinneret showing an example of a cross-section of a preferred spinneret for producing a flat yarn used in the production of a false-twist yarn for a velvet fabric according to the present invention,
FIG. 3 is a cross-sectional photograph of a partially stretched yarn spun using a spinneret used in the production of a false-twist yarn for a velvet fabric according to the present invention,
4 is a cross-sectional photograph of a velvet fabric false construction according to the present invention.

이하, 본 발명을 첨부도면을 참고로 바람직한 일 실시형태에 의해 보다 자세하게 설명한다.DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS The present invention will hereinafter be described in more detail by way of preferred embodiments with reference to the accompanying drawings.

도 1은 본 발명의 바람직한 실시형태에 따른 가연기를 사용하여 편평단면 부분연신사를 가연사로 생산하는 공정을 개략적으로 나타낸 공정 개략도이고, 도 2는 본 발명에 따른 벨벳 직물용 가연사의 생산에 사용되는 편평단면 부분연신사를 생산하는 바람직한 방사구금의 단면의 예를 도시한 방사구금 단면도이다. Fig. 1 is a schematic view showing a process for producing a flat cross-sectional stretch yarn as a twist yarn using a combustor according to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, Fig. 2 is a schematic view showing a process for producing a twist yarn for a velvet fabric according to the present invention Sectional view showing an example of a cross-section of a preferred spinneret to produce a flat cross-sectional partially drawn yarn.

본 발명의 바람직한 실시형태에 따르면, 본 발명에서는 편평단면 부분연신사를 제조함에 있어서, 도 2에 도시된 바와 같은 단면이 일(-)자형 또는 1개 이상의 요철을 가지는 일자형으로 토출홀이 형성되어 있되 토출홀의 폭은 0.05 내지 0.15mm이고, 토출홀의 길이/토출홀의 폭은 5 이상인 이형단면사용 방사구금을 사용하여 단사섬도 1.0데니어를 넘지 않도록 편평사를 제조하고, 이렇게 제조된 편평사를 도 1에 도시된 가연기(10) 내에 위치하는 제1 히터(3)에 제1 피더 롤러(2)를 통해 공급하고 상기 히터를 통과한 후, 가연 기구(4), 제2 피더 롤러(5), 제2 히터(6), 제3 피더 롤러(7), 오일 롤러(8) 및 와인더(9)로 순차적으로 이동시키면서 가연하여 가연사를 제조하여 벨벳 직물용으로 제공한다. According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, in the production of a flat cross-sectional partially stretched yarn according to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, a discharge hole is formed in a straight shape having a cross section of a negative (-) shape or at least one concavo- The width of the discharge hole is 0.05 to 0.15 mm, the length of the discharge hole is 5 or more, and the width of the discharge hole is 5 or more. A flat yarn is produced so that the single yarn fineness does not exceed 1.0 denier, The feeder mechanism 4, the second feeder roller 5, and the second feeder roller 6 are fed to the first heater 3 located in the combustor 10 shown in FIG. 1 through the first feeder roller 2, The second heater 6, the third feeder roller 7, the oil roller 8 and the winder 9 to produce a false-twist yarn to provide the same for a velvet fabric.

단사섬도 1.0데니어 미만의 편평사는 단면의 형태적 특성으로 인해 벨벳으로 제직시 천연섬유 이상의 부드러운 터치감을 나타낼 수 있다. 하지만 단사섬도 저하에 따른 방사작업성 불량을 발생할 수 있으므로 토출홀의 폭은 0.15mm이하로 제한하는 것이 바람직하다. 토출홀의 폭이 0.05이하일 경우 구금 가공불량으로 인해 방사작업성어 저해될 수 있다. Flat yarns having a single yarn fineness of less than 1.0 denier can exhibit a soft touch feeling over natural fibers when woven with velvet due to the morphological characteristics of the cross section. However, it is preferable to limit the width of the discharge hole to 0.15 mm or less since the radiation workability may be deteriorated due to the lowering of the single yarn fineness. When the width of the discharge hole is 0.05 or less, it is possible to prevent the spinning worker from being spun due to poor machining.

상기 편평단면 부분연신사의 신도는 90 내지 150%수준이 바람직하다. 만일 신도가 90% 이하로 떨어지면 가연 후 권축성이 저하되어, 바람직하기 않고, 신도가 150% 이상일 경우 방사작업성 저하 및 염색 불균일을 발생하여 바람직하지 않다.The elongation of the flat cross-section partially stretched yarn is preferably 90 to 150%. If the elongation is lowered to 90% or less, the crimpability after crimping is lowered, which is undesirable. When the elongation is 150% or more, lowering of radiation workability and uneven dyeing are undesirable.

본 발명에서는 상기 편평단면 부분연신사를 1.5내지 2.0의 연신비로 가연하며, 가연기 내의 제1 히터에 공급하여 가연사를 생산하는 속도는 500 내지 800mpm으로 하는 것이 바람직하다. 생산속도 500mpm 미만에서는 생산성이 저하하고, 800mpm 이상에서는 조업성이 떨어져 바람직하지 않다.In the present invention, it is preferable that the flat cross-section partially drawn yarn is twisted at a stretching ratio of 1.5 to 2.0, and the speed at which the false twist yarn is produced by supplying the first heater in the twisted machine is 500 to 800 mpm. If the production speed is less than 500 mpm, the productivity is lowered. If the production speed is higher than 800 mpm, the productivity is lowered.

본 발명의 또 다른 바람직한 실시형태에 따르면, 상기 제1 히터(3)의 온도는 170 내지 200℃로 유지하는 것이 바람직하다. 온도가 상기 범위 아래도 되면 권축성이 저하하여 촉감을 나쁘게 하는 원인이 되며, 상기 온도를 초과하면 강도와 신도가 저하되어 바람직하지 않다. 또한, 상기 가연사 물성은 신도 25% 이상으로 강도는 3.5g/de이상으로 하는 것이 바람직하다. 신도가 25% 미만일 경우 탄성계수 증가로 부드러운 터치감이 저하되며, 강도가 3.5g/de미만일 경우 가연 및 제직공정에서 절사되는 경우가 발생할 수 있다. According to another preferred embodiment of the present invention, the temperature of the first heater 3 is preferably maintained at 170 to 200 ° C. If the temperature is below the above range, the coilability decreases to cause deterioration of the feel. If the temperature exceeds the above range, the strength and elongation decrease, which is not preferable. The false-twist property is preferably 25% or more in elongation and 3.5 g / de or more in strength. When the elongation is less than 25%, the soft touch feeling is lowered due to the increase of the elastic modulus. If the elongation is less than 3.5 g / de, it may occur in the false twisting and weaving process.

본 발명의 또 바람직한 실시형태에 따르면, 상기 가연사 물성은 토크가 50 내지 100으로 설정되어야 하는데, 50 미만에서는 파일 빠짐이 발생하고 100 초과시에는 조업성이 떨어져 바람직하지 않다. According to a further preferred embodiment of the present invention, the false twisting properties are set so that the torque is set to 50 to 100, and when the value is less than 50, the file is lost.

이하, 본 발명을 실시예로 보다 자세히 설명하지만 본 발명의 범주가 이들 실시예에 한정하는 것은 아님은 물론이다. Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to Examples, but the scope of the present invention is not limited to these Examples.

실시예 1Example 1

강도가 4.0g/de인 편평 단면의 0.75데니어/144필라멘트를 생산속도 3000mpm으로 신도 120% 수준의 부분연신사를 제조하고, 이를 도 1과 같은 벨트 타입의 가연기를 사용하여 제 1피더 롤러로 공급하여, 생산속도 600mpm, 제1 히터의 온도 180℃, 연신비 1.8로 하여 가연사를 제조하였다. 이렇게 제조된 가연사를 사용하여 벨벳 직물을 제조한 수 제조된 직물의 촉감 및 파일 빠짐을 조사하였다.A 0.75 denier / 144 filament having a flat cross section having a strength of 4.0 g / de was produced at a production speed of 3000 mpm and a partially drawn yarn having an elongation of 120% was prepared and supplied to the first feeder roller using a belt- , The production rate was 600 mpm, the temperature of the first heater was 180 캜, and the stretching ratio was 1.8. The tactile feeling and paw withdrawal of the fabric made from the velvet fabric were investigated.

표 1에서와 같이, 1.0de(데니어) 미만의 편평사를 사용하고 생산속도를 3000mpm으로 유지하면서 신도 120% 수준이 되도록 했을 때, 촉감(부드러운 터치감)이 가장 우수한 것으로 나타났다.As shown in Table 1, when a flat yarn of less than 1.0de (denier) was used and the production speed was maintained at 3000mpm and the elongation was set at 120%, the touch (soft touch feeling) was the most excellent.

그리고 이와 같이 생산된 편평 극세 부분연신사를 위 조건에서와 같이 가연공정을 거쳤더니, 촉감은 그대로 유지되면서 파일빠짐은 거의 나타나지않게되었다.And then, the flattened microparticulated yarn produced in this manner was subjected to a flammability process as in the above conditions, and the tactile feeling remained unchanged, resulting in almost no file dropout.

비교예 1Comparative Example 1

편평 극세사의 생산속도를 낮춰서 편평단면 부분연신사의 신도가 120%에서 140%로 조정한 것외에는 상기 실시예 1과 동일하게 하여 가연사를 제조하였다. A false-twist yarn was produced in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the production rate of the flat microfine yarn was lowered and the elongation of the flat cross-sectional partially stretched yarn was adjusted from 120% to 140%.

이와 같이 실험해본 결과 파일 빠짐은 실시예 1과 마찬가지로 거의 나타나지않았으나, 신도가 140%에 가까워지면서 촉감(부드러운 터치감)이 저하되는 조짐이 관측되었다.As a result of the experiment, it was found that the file missing was almost the same as in Example 1, but an indication that the feel (soft touch feeling) was lowered as the elongation became close to 140% was observed.

비교예 2Comparative Example 2

편평 극세사의 생산속도를 높여서 편평단면 부분연신사의 신도가 120%에서 80%으로 조정한 것 외에는 상기 실시예 1과 동일하게 하여 가연사를 제조하였다. A false-twist yarn was produced in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the production rate of the flat microfine yarn was increased to adjust the elongation of the flat cross-sectional partially stretched yarn from 120% to 80%.

이와 같이 실험해본 결과 파일 빠짐은 실시예 1과 마찬가지로 거의 나타나지않았으나, 신도가 80%에서는 촉감(부드러운 터치감)이 크게 나빠지는 것이 확인되었다.As a result of the experiment, it was confirmed that the file missing was almost the same as in Example 1, but the tactile sensation (soft touch feeling) was greatly deteriorated at 80% of the tactile sensation.

비교예 3Comparative Example 3

신도 30%수준의 완전 연신사를 사용하여 가연하지 않은 사를 사용하여 벨벳 직물을 제조하는 외는 상기 실시예 1과 동일하게 하였다. The same procedure as in Example 1 was carried out except that a fully drawn yarn of 30% in elongation was used to produce a velvet fabric using non-twisted yarn.

이와 같이 실험해본 결과 완전 연신사를 사용할 경우 촉감(부드러운 터치감)은 만족스러웠으나, 위 조건으로 가연하지않을 경우 파일 빠짐현상이 심하게 나타나는 것으로 확인되었다.As a result of the experiment, it was confirmed that the soft touch feeling was satisfactory when using the fully drawn soft cloth, but the file missing phenomenon was observed when the soft touch was not caused by the above conditions.

비교예 4Comparative Example 4

편평단면 부분연신사 대신 원형단면 부분연신사를 사용하는 외에는 상기 실시예 1과 동일하게 하여 가연사를 제조하였다.A false-twist yarn was produced in the same manner as in Example 1 except that a circular cross-sectional partially drawn yarn was used in place of the flat cross-sectional partially drawn yarn.

이와 같이 실험해본 결과 극세사를 사용하더라도 편평 단면이 아닌 원형 단면을 사용할 경우 촉감(부드러운 터치감)이 크게 나빠지는 것으로 확인되었다. As a result of this experiment, it was confirmed that even when using microfibers, the use of a circular cross section instead of a flat cross section greatly deteriorates the soft touch feeling.

구분division 촉감touch 파일 빠짐File Exit 실시예 1Example 1 비교예 1Comparative Example 1 ×× 비교예 2Comparative Example 2 ×× 비교예 3Comparative Example 3 ×× 비교예 4Comparative Example 4 ××

(판정결과는 ◎; 아주 양호, ○; 양호, △; 보통, ×; 불량) (The judgment result is?: Very good,?: Good,?: Normal, X: defective)

위 실험을 통해 촉감과 파일 빠짐현상을 모두 만족하기 위해서는, 반드시 극세사를 사용하여 편평 단면 형태로 구성하되, 편평 극세사 제조공정 후 가연공정이 반드시 뒤따라야한다는 사실과, 극세사로서는 원형 단면이 아닌 편평 단면사를 사용해야하며 완전 연신사가 아닌 부분 연신사를 사용해야한다는 사실과, 편평사 제조공정에서는 생산속도를 조절하여 신도가 80~140% 가 되어야하며, 그 상,하한을 경계로 촉감(부드러운 터치감)이 크게 나빠진다는 사실이 확인되었다.In order to satisfy both the tactile sensation and the file dropout phenomenon through the above experiment, it is necessary to use a micro-thread to form a flat cross-sectional shape. However, the fact that the micro- , And the fact that it is necessary to use a partially stretched yarn rather than a fully stretched yarn and that the elongation should be 80 to 140% by controlling the production speed in the flat yarn manufacturing process, and that the upper and lower boundaries have a soft touch It has been confirmed that it is greatly deteriorated.

1 --- 편평사 2 --- 제1 피더 롤러
3 --- 제1 히터 4 --- 가연 기구
5 --- 제2 피더 롤러 6 --- 제2 히터
7 --- 제3 피더 롤러 8 --- 오일 롤러
9 --- 와인더 10 --- 가연기
1 --- flattened thread 2 --- first feeder roller
3 --- first heater 4 --- misfire mechanism
5 --- 2nd feeder roller 6 --- 2nd heater
7 --- 3rd feeder roller 8 --- Oil roller
9 --- Winder 10 --- combustor

Claims (2)

벨벳 직물용 극세사를 생산하는 공정과, 상기 극세사를 가연하는 공정으로 이루어진 벨벳 직물용 가연사의 제조방법에 있어서,
상기 극세사 생산공정에서는 ①극세사의 종류, ②극세사의 굵기, ③ 극세사의 단면 형태, ④ 생산속도 및 신도의 총 4가지 조건이 유기적으로 결합된 상태에서 실시되어지되,
극세사 종류는 부분 연신사임과 동시에 굵기는 반드시 1.0 데니어를 넘지말아야하고, 극세사 단면은 원형이 아닌 편평형을 사용하되 극세사 생산속도를 조절하여 신도는 80 내지 140%가 되어야 하며,
극세사 가연공정에서는 상기와 같이 생산된 극세사가 ⑤1.5 내지 2.0의 연신비로 가연되어지되, ⑥이때 가연사 생산속도는 500 내지 800mpm이고, ⑦제1 히터온도는 170 내지 200℃가 되어야함을 특징으로 하는 벨벳 직물용 가연사의 제조방법.
A method for producing a false-twist yarn for a velvet fabric, comprising the steps of: producing a microfiber fabric for a velvet fabric; and twisting the microfiber fabric,
In the microfabricated production process, the four conditions of ① microfiber, ② thickness of microfiber, ③ sectional shape of microfiber, ④ production speed and elongation are organically combined,
The thickness of the microfiber yarn should not exceed 1.0 denier at the same time as the partial stretching, and the microfiber yarn should have a flatness of 80 to 140% by controlling the production rate of the microfiber yarn,
In the microfabrication process, the microfibers produced as described above are twisted at a stretching ratio of? 1.5 to 2.0,? The production speed of the false twist yarns is 500 to 800 mpm, and? The first heater temperature is 170 to 200 占By weight based on the total weight of the yarn.
제 1항에 있어서,
상기 가연사 물성은, 신도 25% 이상이고, 강도 3.5g/de 이상이면서, 토크가 50~100으로 설정된 것을 특징으로 하는 벨벳 직물용 가연사의 제조방법.
The method according to claim 1,
Wherein said false-twist property is set to 25% or more in elongation, 3.5 g / d or more in strength, and 50 to 100 in torque.
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