CN111691043A

CN111691043A - Soft wool fabric of refined wool based on conversion from beta folding to alpha spiral and preparation method thereof

Info

Publication number: CN111691043A
Application number: CN202010440322.3A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 于伟东; 刘洪玲; 赵亮; 张国生; 刘刚中
Original assignee: Donghua University
Current assignee: Donghua University; National Dong Hwa University
Priority date: 2020-08-07
Filing date: 2020-08-07
Publication date: 2020-09-22

Abstract

The invention discloses a fine elastic wool fabric based on wool yarns converted from beta folding to alpha spiral and a preparation method thereof. The preparation method comprises the following steps: pretreating, stretching and once shaping wool tops to prepare fiber-attenuated wool tops, spinning the wool tops to prepare wool yarns, or directly pretreating, stretching and once shaping the wool yarns to prepare the fiber-attenuated wool yarns; the wool yarns are interwoven into a fabric, and then the fabric is subjected to rebound setting treatment for converting beta folding into alpha spiral, so that the fine elastic wool fabric is obtained. The compact wool fabric can be used for the fabric of outdoor sportswear, so that the protection effect of the fabric is enhanced.

Description

Soft wool fabric of refined wool based on conversion from beta folding to alpha spiral and preparation method thereof

Technical Field

The invention relates to a method for researching a thinning mechanism of wool fibers, in particular to a fine elastic wool fabric based on the conversion of wool yarns from beta folding to alpha spiral and a preparation method thereof.

Background

Wool is an important textile raw material, has the characteristics of good elasticity, good heat retention, strong hygroscopicity, difficult contamination, soft luster and the like, is a material for various high-grade clothes and rare ornaments, and is also widely applied to fabrics in various seasons with strong heat retention. In recent years, with the increase of demand for living quality, wool fabrics having both warmth retention and lightness and thinness have become popular with consumers, and therefore lightness and thinness of wool fabrics have become an important research direction, and reduction of fineness by stretching and thinning is a scientific and effective solution. The boiling water shrinkage rate of the existing wool refining material is generally 12% -40%, namely the main mechanism of the stretching refinement is caused by the transformation from an alpha spiral macromolecular structure to a beta folding macromolecular structure, and through a stretching test, the slow elastic section on the wool stretching curve disappears, generally 0% -3%, the fiber becomes rigid, the integral breaking elongation of the fiber is only 10% -13%, so that the strength of the fiber is not more than 20%, and the fineness of the fiber is not more than 5.5 μm or more than 26%.

Many studies on wool fibers have been carried out, mainly focusing on the following aspects:

the first category relates to the process of wool stretch refining. A knitting yarn of wool draw and thin color spinning A70-648s/2 and its processing technology (patent application No. 201110291393.2) adopts the immersion reduction softening agent, twisting composite drawing technology and permanent shaping technology for 56s short wool, and utilizes the principle that the alpha helical structure is converted into beta folding structure. A technology for drafting and thinning wool (201210389495.2) features that the colloid is used to coat wool for drafting by one time at most according to the easily broken wool in its stretching process. A method for stretch refining and non-permanent shaping of colored and uncolored wool (patent application No. 201310326438.4; 201310326437.X) comprises stretch refining colored or colorless wool having a fineness of 14.7-28.0 μm to a non-permanent shape of 12.7-22.7 μm, and then shrinking the wool under a wet heat condition of 90 ℃ or higher. A method of stretch refining and permanent setting of uncolored wool (patent application No. 201310326446.9) is also to refine wool of the above-mentioned fineness to 12.7 μm to 22.7 μm, and unlike the non-permanent setting, the refined wool is given a set and the strength of the wool can be increased by 20%. The maximum stretching amount of the stretching and thinning process is 100 percent, and the principle is based on the conversion of an alpha helical structure to a beta folding structure, the slippage of a molecular layer is not achieved, and the method is far from the invention.

The second type is the reagent formulation used for wool refining. The chemical treatment agent for wool stretching (patent application No. 01112860.7), the setting treatment agent for refined wool stretching (patent application No. 01112859.3), the multifunctional setting agent and setting process for refined wool stretching (patent application No. 200410024653.X) and the chemical treatment agent for wool stretching and setting (patent application No. 01112858.5) are mainly used in the formula of the chemical treatment agent for the wool stretching and refining treatment process. However, the formulation used in the present invention is very different from the aforementioned formulations. Although the formula can stretch wool, the slippage on the molecular layer surface is not easy to achieve in the stretching process, and stable superfine wool is not easy to form. The invention can further obtain the structural change in the wool fiber stretching process, and obtain the superfine wool by adjusting the relationship among the twist, the drafting speed and the holding distance.

The third type relates to a method for manufacturing a machine dedicated to the fine stretching. A wool top thinning, twisting and stretching test apparatus (patent application No. 200810053074.6) mainly passes through the experimental model and means of stretching wool under the wet and hot condition, the diameter of the wool thinning given in the example is reduced by 3.3 μm or 15% at most. A wool draw false twisting device with a heat pipe (patent application No. 200720018151.5) is a device for improving the false twisting degree and the drawing fineness of wool fibers by utilizing the heat resources of a factory. A wool stretching and setting device and a wool stretching and setting process (patent application number: 201510366668.2) provide the wool stretching and setting device and the wool stretching and setting process, the setting process is wet-heat setting (the temperature is 80-100 ℃ and the relative humidity is 90-100%), the stretching times are not mentioned in the patent, and only the strip discharging speed is limited. A wool stretching auxiliary agent blending and conveying device (patent application number: 201420296122.5) only realizes blending and conveying of auxiliary agents and does not relate to the principle and process of stretching and refining. A wool continuous stretching device (application number: 201420434896.X) is mainly used for the continuous production of the wool by physical refining, and a specific refining method and stretching times are not given in the patent. The maximum theoretical stretching ratio of the special machine (patent application number: 200410025087.4) for thinning and stretching wool and various animal fibers (or fabrics) is 70%. The special stretching machines of the types have the outstanding characteristics of low stretching and thinning rate and difficult formation of superfine wool. Compared with the present invention, the invention principle provided by the present invention is completely different from the above examples, and the stretching and thinning degree is greatly improved, and the thinning effect is far better than that of the above materials.

Disclosure of Invention

The technical problem to be solved by the invention is as follows: the existing wool refining materials have low refining efficiency.

In order to solve the technical problems, the invention provides a preparation method of a fine elastic wool fabric based on beta folding to alpha spiral conversion wool yarns, which is characterized in that wool tops are prepared into fiber-attenuated wool tops through pretreatment, stretching and primary shaping, then the wool tops are processed into wool yarns through spinning, or the wool yarns are directly prepared into the fiber-attenuated wool yarns through pretreatment, stretching and primary shaping; the wool yarns are interwoven into a fabric, and then the fabric is subjected to rebound setting treatment for converting beta folding into alpha spiral, so that the fine elastic wool fabric is obtained.

Preferably, the wool tops are recycled wool fibers, short wool fibers or thick wool.

Preferably, the pretreatment is to perform infiltration expansion and de-crosslinking on wool tops or wool yarns in the presence of at least one reagent selected from sodium bisulfite, thioglycolic acid, a surfactant, triethanolamine and an EDTA salt, so as to prepare for subsequent macromolecule splitting in wool bodies and slippage drafting and stretching of micro-precursors and provide a cushion for efficient transformation of alpha-helix macromolecule conformation.

Preferably, the stretching is to smoothly, smoothly and nondestructively stretch the pretreated wool tops or yarns under the condition that the wool tops or yarns are soaked, so as to achieve the purpose that the wool fibers are thinned from alpha helix to beta-sheet conformation, and the wool is thinned in thickness and has potential internal retraction stress.

Preferably, the primary sizing is performed in the presence of at least one agent selected from potassium persulfate, acetic acid, zinc acetate and hexamethylenetetramine; the top or the yarn under the tension state is quickly and crossly reconstructed, and the thinned wool is shaped in a stable state.

More preferably, under the conditions of relative humidity of 80-100% and dyeing temperature of 100-120 ℃, the relaxation and permanent setting treatment of the fine elastic wool fabric is carried out, namely, the fabric is fine densified and high-elastic bulked.

Preferably, after the wool tops are stretched, the fiber diameter of the wool tops is thinned by 15-25%, the fiber diameter is reduced by 3-5 microns, the strength of the fibers is increased by 15-30%, and the elastic elongation of the fibers is not less than 18%.

The invention also provides the fine elastic wool fabric based on the beta folding-to-alpha spiral conversion wool yarn, which is prepared by the preparation method of the fine elastic wool fabric based on the beta folding-to-alpha spiral conversion wool yarn.

The invention can be applied to various woven fabrics of clothes, such as plain weave and twill weave in the three-primary weave, and also can be weft-flat, warp-flat and square-flat variable weaves of non-primary weave; it may be a knitted fabric. The high bulked yarn can be used for processing soft, foldable, crease-resistant and warm-keeping wool fabrics.

Compared with the prior art, the invention has the following technical effects:

1) the invention is green and environment-friendly, and can be used for processing short wool or recycled fiber;

2) the stretching mechanism of the fiber is used for weaving the fabric;

3) the protective fabric is light, thin and compact, the heat-insulating property of the fabric is effectively improved, the elasticity of the fabric is good, and the movement is free of obstacles.

Drawings

FIG. 1 is a drawing of a wool fiber stretching and setting mechanism;

FIG. 2 is a graph of amide I bands for wool fibers at different stretch ratios.

Detailed Description

In order to make the invention more comprehensible, preferred embodiments are described in detail below with reference to the accompanying drawings.

The percentages in examples 1 to 3 are by mass unless otherwise specified.

Example 1

Pretreating wool fibers in a 75-DEG C3-wt% sodium bisulfite treatment solution, opening disulfide bonds and salt bonds among spiral macromolecules, then stretching on a stretcher with the twist of 30 twists/m, the stretching speed of 50%/min and the stretching rate of 40%, and shaping the stretched and shaped wool tops in a 6.5% potassium persulfate solution and a 1.5% zinc acetate solution. The resulting 40% stretch wool yarns were then interwoven on a loom in a plain weave over one another. The warp and weft densities of the fabric were 350 pieces/10 cm and 280 pieces/10 cm, respectively, and then the fabric was dyed at 115 ℃ to obtain a 10% shrinkage and a compact and elastic structure.

Example 2

Pretreating wool fibers in 5 wt% of sodium bisulfite treatment solution at 70 ℃, opening disulfide bonds and salt bonds among spiral macromolecules, then stretching on a stretcher, wherein the twist is 15 twists/m, the stretching speed is 30%/min, the stretching rate is 90%, and the wool tops after stretching and shaping are shaped in 5.5% of potassium persulfate and 2.5% of zinc acetate solution. The resulting 60% stretch wool yarns were then interwoven on a loom in a plain weave over one another. The warp and weft densities of the fabric were 350 pieces/10 cm and 280 pieces/10 cm, respectively, and then the fabric was dyed at 110 ℃ to obtain a 15% shrinkage of the fabric and a compact and elastic structure.

Example 3

Pretreating wool fibers in a 75-DEG C3-wt% sodium bisulfite treatment solution, opening disulfide bonds and salt bonds among spiral macromolecules, then stretching on a stretcher with the twist of 30 twists/m, the stretching speed of 50%/min and the stretching rate of 20%, and shaping the stretched and shaped wool tops in a 6.5% potassium persulfate solution and a 1.5% zinc acetate solution. The resulting 20% stretch wool yarns were then interwoven on a loom in a plain weave over one another. The warp and weft densities of the fabric were 350 pieces/10 cm and 280 pieces/10 cm, respectively, and then the fabric was dyed at 105 ℃ to obtain a shrinkage of 5% and a compact and elastic structure.

Claims

1. A method for preparing fine elastic wool fabric based on beta folding to alpha spiral conversion wool yarn is characterized in that wool tops are pretreated, stretched and once shaped to form fiber-attenuated wool tops, then the wool tops are spun and processed into wool yarn, or the wool yarn is directly pretreated, stretched and once shaped to form fiber-attenuated wool yarn; the wool yarns are interwoven into a fabric, and then the fabric is subjected to rebound setting treatment for converting beta folding into alpha spiral, so that the fine elastic wool fabric is obtained.

2. The method of claim 1, wherein the wool tops are recycled wool, staple wool, or staple wool.

3. The method of claim 1, wherein the pretreatment comprises wet-swelling and de-crosslinking the wool tops or yarns in the presence of at least one agent selected from the group consisting of sodium bisulfite, thioglycolic acid, surfactants, triethanolamine, and EDTA salts to provide for subsequent splitting of macromolecules and subsequent slip-draw stretching of the microprojectiles in the wool and to provide a mat for efficient conversion of the alpha helical macromolecular conformation.

4. The method of claim 1, wherein the stretching is smooth and non-destructive stretching of the pretreated wool tops or yarns under the condition of wetting the wool tops or yarns to achieve a fine wool with wool fibers converted from the α -helix to the β -sheet conformation, such that the wool is not only refined in thickness, but also has potential internal retractive stress.

5. The method of claim 1, wherein the primary shaping is performed in the presence of at least one agent selected from the group consisting of potassium persulfate, acetic acid, zinc acetate, and hexamethylenetetramine; the top or the yarn under the tension state is quickly and crossly reconstructed, and the thinned wool is shaped in a stable state.

6. The method as claimed in claim 5, wherein the relaxation and permanent setting treatment of the fine elastic wool fabric is fine densification and high elastic bulking of the fabric under the conditions of relative humidity of 80-100% and dyeing temperature of 100-120 ℃.

7. The method of claim 1, wherein the drawn wool tops have a fiber diameter reduced by 15 to 25% and a fiber diameter reduced by 3 to 5 μm, while the fiber strength is increased by 15 to 30% and the fiber elastic elongation is not less than 18%.

8. The method for preparing a fine elastic wool fabric based on the conversion of beta-sheet to alpha-helix according to any one of claims 1 to 7.