KR20110045151A - Cosmetic composition for improving skin - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE: A male cosmetic composition containing extract of Torreya nucifera leaves or bark for improving skin condition is provided to suppress expression of inflammatory factors and to relieve skin irritation and inflammation. CONSTITUTION: A cosmetic composition for improving skin condition contains 0.001-30 weight% of extract of Torreya nucifera leaves or bark as an active ingredient. The composition is used for skin moisturizing or acne treatment. The composition is manufactured in the form of emulsion, suspension, microemulsion, microcapsule, ion type(liposome) and non-ion type vesicle dispersion, skin, lotion, cream, pack, gel, makeup base, foundation, powder, ointment, or spray.

Description

Cosmetic composition for improving skin {Cosmetic composition for improving skin}

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for improving male skin, and more particularly, contains a non-tree leaf or bark extract, which shows an excellent effect on moisturizing the skin and simultaneously inhibits the expression of inflammatory mediators to stimulate skin due to acne and It relates to a cosmetic composition for improving male skin showing an anti-inflammatory effect.

Skin protects the human body from external physical and chemical stimuli and is divided into three layers: epidermis, dermis and subcutaneous fat tissue. In particular, the skin contains about 65-70% of the moisture that the human body has, which carries various bioactive substances necessary for the human body and helps keep the skin moist. The skin also plays an important role in controlling the evaporation of this moisture out of the body. The epidermis is divided into stratum corneum, granule layer, play layer and basal layer from the outside. The stratum corneum of the epidermis contains about 10-20% of water and is located at the outermost part of the human body, forming a natural protective film made of sebum from the sebaceous glands and sweat glands from the sebaceous gland, preventing evaporation of moisture from outside the body. Blocks material infiltration. The cells constituting the stratum corneum have a high concentration of natural moisturizing factor (NMF), which is a water-soluble ingredient, which helps the skin to show flexibility and maintain proper moisture. However, there are various causes such as artificial temperature control of cooling / heating according to the change of environment or life pattern, skin stress due to various stresses and environmental pollution, frequent face wash due to makeup habits, and natural skin aging due to age increase. Due to the decrease in moisture in the stratum corneum, the skin is dried, the surface is rough, and the skin loses shine, and the appearance of dull appearance occurs, so the need for a skin moisturizer is increasing.

Conventionally, a humectant (humectant) having a property of absorbing moisture or a closed moisturizer (Occlusive Moisturizer) that prevents evaporation of water is used as a moisturizer. Most of the humectants are polyols and include glycerin, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, and polyethylene glycol. However, they have a disadvantage in that the polyol is very sticky or damp when applied to the skin. As a closed moisturizer, lipid components such as ceramide, essential fatty acids and lipid complexes were used (J. Invest. Dermatol. (5), 731-740, 1994). It has the disadvantage of inhibiting and is unsuitable for producing a transparent gel-like product. In addition, formulations containing lamellar liquid crystals, which have been studied until recently, are known to have excellent moisture moisturizing properties with advantages similar to the skin keratin structure, but there are problems in general use because they are possible only in specific compositions of raw materials.

In addition, male skin has an increased sebaceous gland due to the strong secretion of the male hormone, androgen, which is the biggest difference from female skin, and secreted sebum is 1.5-2 times more than female in most face areas (William J Cunliffe: Acne, Martin Dunitz Ltd, 140, 1989) In case of using the above-mentioned general humectant and occlusive moisturizer, sebum secreted from sebaceous glands is blocked in the pores, causing inflammation such as acne. There is a problem that the use is limited.

Acne is a chronic sebaceous inflammatory disease caused by the retention of hyperkeratosis in the pores caused by sebum, which is mainly caused by excessive secretion of sebum, infection of the pores, narrowing of the hair follicles, stenosis, and the growth of acne bacteria. , Inflammatory reactions, etc. can be explained according to the degree of development of acne symptoms, and various mechanisms may work in combination.

The first cause of acne is the excessive secretion of sebum. Sebum is a substance secreted by the sebaceous glands, and in normal amounts it acts to prevent harmful substances outside the skin from penetrating keratinocytes. However, under puberty, before and after menstruation, early pregnancy, contraceptives, and stress, the human body shows a different hormonal balance than normal. This altered hormonal balance stimulates the sebaceous glands, which leads to an oversecretion of sebum. Biologically, males may also increase acne incidence because sebum secretion is higher than that of females due to the strong secretion of androgen, a representative male hormone.

The second cause of acne is an infection of the pores. Excessively secreted sebum contains a lot of fatty acids to increase the pH of the skin surface, dissolving the lipids of the skin lowers the defense of the skin itself. On the surface of the skin with high pH, acne-causing bacteria become easy to multiply, and the multiplying acne bacteria cause purulent inflammation through weakened skin. This acne-induced inflammation is caused by these immunological factors.

Accordingly, in the cosmetic industry, attempts have been made to alleviate the immune response by controlling inflammatory mediators, and to alleviate skin irritation through skin barrier strengthening and skin protection. Specific examples include a bradykinin antagonist (see USP 5,849,312) for controlling inflammatory mediators and adverse reactions of sensitive skin, and an example of applying a cytokine TNF-α inhibitor as a sensitive skin preparation (US Patent Application Publication). 5,851,556).

To date, chemicals that can be used to alleviate irritation and inflammation such as erythema and edema are nonsteroidal substances such as flufenamic acid, ibuprofen, benzydamine, and indomethacin. Steroidal substances include prednisolone and dexamethasone (Kim Chang-jong, Pathophysiology, Hallym Co., p61-69, 1988), and allantoin, azulene, ε-aminokiproic acid Cortisone, licorice acid and its derivatives (β-glycileic acid, glycylate acid derivatives) are also known to have anti-inflammatory effects (Ministry of Gwangjeong, Ministry of Neo-Cosmetics, Namsan Sugar, p162, 1993).

However, indomethacin, which is used as an anti-inflammatory agent, is a substance that cannot be used in cosmetics, hydrocortisone has a limited amount of use, and licorice acid and its derivatives are difficult to stabilize or have poor solubility. The anti-inflammatory agents known to date, such as difficult to obtain, have a problem in terms of skin safety or stability in the formulation of cosmetics, and their use is limited.

Therefore, the present inventors have studied to find a substance that can improve acne at the same time as the cosmetic composition contains a large amount of moisture in the stratum corneum of the male skin and reduces moisture evaporation, so that the non-leaved leaves or bark extract have excellent water retention. It has been found that it contains a large amount of water and reduces water evaporation of male skin, and at the same time, suppresses the expression of inflammatory mediators, thereby alleviating skin irritation and inflammation caused by acne.

Therefore, an object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic composition for improving male skin having a skin moisturizing power and acne improving effect by containing a non-tree leaf or bark extract.

In order to achieve the above object, the present invention provides a cosmetic composition for improving male skin containing non-tree leaves or bark extract as an active ingredient.

The cosmetic composition provided by the present invention is excellent in skin moisturizing power and acne improving effect can be used as a male skin improvement cosmetic composition.

In order to achieve the above object, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is characterized in that it contains a non-tree leaf or bark extract as an active ingredient.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail.

Torreya nucifera is an evergreen tree of the genus Obsidaceae, whose seeds are oval, 23 mm long, 12 mm in diameter, dark brown, and hard. Only seeds are called visas and are medicinal. It is squeezed and eaten by oil, so it is suitable for street trees. It is distributed in Korea (Naejangsan) and Japan.

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may contain the non-tree leaf or bark extract in an amount of 0.001 to 30% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. If the content of the non-leaf tree or bark extract is less than 0.001% by weight, the skin moisturizing and acne-improving effect by the extract may not be greatly obtained. Inefficient

The non-tree leaves or bark extracting method contained in the cosmetic composition of the present invention is not particularly limited, and is extracted and used by conventional methods.

Cosmetic compositions according to the invention may be formulated containing a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable medium or base. These are all formulations suitable for skin, for example emulsions, suspensions, microemulsions, microcapsules, microgranules or ionic (liposomes) and non-obtained by dispersing an oil phase in solutions, gels, solids, pasty anhydrous products, aqueous phases. It may be provided in the form of an ionic vesicle dispersant or in the form of a skin, lotion, cream, pack, gel, makeup base, foundation, powder, ointment, spray or concealed stick. These compositions may be prepared according to conventional methods in the art. The composition according to the invention can also be used in the form of a foam or in the form of an aerosol composition further containing a compressed propellant.

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention is a fatty substance, an organic solvent, a dissolving agent, a thickening agent, a gelling agent, a softening agent, an antioxidant, a suspending agent, a stabilizer, a foaming agent, a fragrance, a surfactant, water, an ionic or nonionic. Such as type emulsifiers, fillers, metal ion sequestrants, chelating agents, preservatives, vitamins, blockers, wetting agents, essential oils, dyes, pigments, hydrophilic or lipophilic actives, lipid vesicles or any other ingredients commonly used in cosmetics. It may contain adjuvants conventionally used in the cosmetic or dermatology field. Such adjuvants are introduced in amounts generally used in the cosmetic or dermatological arts.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to Examples and Experimental Examples, but the scope of the present invention is not necessarily limited to these examples.

[Reference Example] Preparation of Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3

To the composition of Table 1 to prepare a composition containing Examples 1 to 2 and Comparative Example 1 not containing a non-tree leaf or bark extract. Examples 1-2 and Comparative Example 1 were all prepared in O / W formulation, the unit of the content shown in Table 1 is the weight percent.

On the other hand, the non-leaved leaves or bark extract used in the present invention was dried and pulverized each non-leaved leaf or bark by dry weight 100g, respectively, and then double vacuum packed in an ultra-high pressure bag for 8 hours at 1000 at 25 ° C. Ultra high pressure extraction was filtered by 80mesh and then centrifuged for 30 minutes at 15 ℃ at 8000rpm and then filtered again to prepare the residue.

division Raw material name Example 1 Example 2 Comparative Example 1 Paid Part Polysorbate 60 1.0 1.0 1.0 Glyceryl stearate 0.5 0.5 0.5 Fiji-100 Stearate 1.0 1.0 1.0 Meadowfoam seed oil 3.0 3.0 3.0 Cyclomethicone 2.0 2.0 2.0 Dimethicone 3.0 3.0 3.0 Behenyl alcohol 1.0 1.0 1.0 Cetearyl Alcohol 1.0 1.0 1.0 7-ethylhexanoate 10.0 10.0 10.0 antiseptic Quantity Quantity Quantity Spices Quantity Quantity Quantity Water Part Purified water To 100 To 100 To 100 Disodium ID 0.05 0.05 0.05 glycerin 10.0 10.0 10.0 Other thickeners, neutralizers Quantity Quantity Quantity Non-leaf extract 1.0 - - Non-bark bark extract - 1.0 -

<Manufacturing Method>

The oil phase parts were dissolved by heating to 70 ° C. in a separate container as the contents shown in Table 1, and then dispersed using a homogenizer. The aqueous part was dissolved by heating at 70 ° C., and then the oil phase part was slowly added to the aqueous part to emulsify at 70 ° C. Finally, the composition was filled into an airtight container and cooled to room temperature using a cooler.

Test Example 1 Human Test on Skin Moisturizing

1. Moisturizing effect experiment

40 adult males who complained of dryness or dry skin were applied to the inner skin of Habakwa twice a day for 4 weeks with the cosmetic compositions of Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Example 1. Moisturizing power was measured by measuring TEWL (Trans Epidermal Water Loss) at the temperature and humidity conditions (24 ° C, 40% relative humidity) at the time of 2 weeks and 4 weeks after the start of application and at the time of application. Compared. The results are shown in FIG.

<TEWL measurement method>

The amount of water evaporated from the skin is calculated according to the area and time, and the amount of water evaporated is read and quantified by the temperature and moisture electronic sensors to measure the skin's moisturizing power.

1. Environmental conditions: The temperature and humidity are kept constant, leaving only a minimum of personnel (as far as possible).

2. Place the TEWL probe on the subject's measurement site.

3. Do not apply excessive force to the measuring area (not leaving any traces on the skin) and place the probe at an angle of 90 degrees to the ground.

4. Measure the value of the skin's TEWL level over time (usually 1-3 minutes).

5. Hold the probe handle as far as possible to avoid passing the temperature of the operator.

6. Calculate the amount of water evaporated per hour per area (g / m ² / h).

As shown in the results of FIG. 1, in the case of Examples 1 to 2 containing non-tree leaves or bark extract, the TEWL change value (evaporation amount of moisture) decreases with time compared to Comparative Example 1. It can be seen that.

 Test Example 2 Confirmation of PGE2 Inhibitory Effect of Non-leaved Leaf or Bark Extract by Stimulating Acne Bacteria Extract

Test cells, keratinocytes (cell name: HaCaT, purchased from Dr. NE Fusenig, Deutsches Krebsforschungszentrum, Heidelberg, Germany) were added 10% fetal bovine serum (Ftal bovine sereum, FBS, purchased from Gibco, USA) and 1% penicillin Approximately 3 × 10 ⁵ cell counts / well in 24 well plates using Dulbecco's Modified Eagle Medium (Lonza, USA) medium containing Penicillin-Streptomycin (Gibco, USA) After dispensing at a density of 37 ° C., 5% CO ₂ Incubated for 24 hours under conditions. Propionibacterium by the P. acne incubated in an anaerobic environment for the production acnes, or less P. acne) extract was centrifuged at 5,000rpm to separate the culture medium and acne bacteria. 1 ml of PBS was added to the isolated acne bacteria, sonicated for 30 minutes, and the cells were crushed and used for the following test. The untreated group was used as a control, and the experimental group was treated with non-acoustic leaf extract with acne bacterium extract by concentration gradient, and the other experimental group was treated with 1% of non-bark bark extract treated with acne bacteria extract and concentration gradient. Incubate for 48 hours. The culture medium of each group was collected and PGE2 ELISA was performed, and the results are shown in Table 2 and FIG. 2.

Extract concentration (%) PGE2 concentration (nM) Average of PGE2 Concentration % control No treatment 0 0.478 0.499 0.513 0.497 One P. acne Extract + Beech Leaf Extract 0 2.951 3.026 2.826 2.934 5.908054 0.1 1.001 1.115 1.344 1.153 2.322148 0.5 0.541 0.779 0.799 0.706 1.422148 One 0.534 0.506 0.521 0.520 1.047651 P. acne Extract + Beech Bark Extract 0 2.934 3.144 1.503 2.527 5.087919 0.1 0.968 0.955 1.345 1.089 2.193289 0.5 0.641 0.633 0.775 0.683 1.375168 One 0.503 0.513 0.501 0.506 1.018121

As can be seen from the results of Table 2 and Figure 2, the group treated with acne bacteria extract alone increased the inflammatory factor (PGE2) by about 5.9 times compared to the untreated group, but the concentration-dependent treatment of non-tree leaves or bark extract It was confirmed that the expression of the inflammatory factor is suppressed. In addition, when treated with 1% non-tree leaves or bark extract was able to reduce the expression of inflammatory factors to a level similar to the untreated group not treated with acne bacteria extract. Therefore, the composition containing the non-tree leaf or bark extract of the present invention as an active ingredient was confirmed that the effect of suppressing the inflammation caused by acne.

Test Example 3 Sensory Evaluation of Acne Improvement Effect

Of the 19 to 26-year-old males with acne were to use the cosmetic composition of Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Example 1 in the same manner as the general lotion for 4 weeks, respectively, according to the opinion of the user to improve the skin Was determined according to the following evaluation criteria. The results are shown in Table 3 below.

<Evaluation Criteria>

+++: Very good improvement.

++: Significant improvement.

+: A slight improvement.

±: No improvement but no deterioration.

-: No improvement, rather worse.

Test substance term 1 week 2 weeks 3 weeks 4 Weeks Example 1 ++ +++ +++ +++ Example 2 ++ ++ +++ +++ Comparative Example 1 ± ± ± ±

As can be seen in Table 3, compared with Comparative Example 1, Examples 1 to 2 containing non-tree leaves or bark extract showed a rapid and excellent acne skin improvement effect.

1 shows the TEWL measurement results measured at two and four weeks after application of Examples 1 to 2 and Comparative Example 1. FIG.

Figure 2 is a graph showing the inhibitory effect of inflammation caused by acne of the non-leaf or bark extract of the present invention.

Claims (4)

A cosmetic composition for skin improvement comprising a non-tree leaf or bark extract as an active ingredient. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the extract is contained in an amount of 0.001-30 wt% based on the total weight of the composition. According to claim 1, wherein the composition is a cosmetic composition, characterized in that for improving skin moisturizing power. According to claim 1, wherein the composition is a cosmetic composition, characterized in that for improving acne.

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