KR20100060751A - Cosmetic composition having anti-inflammation and skin regeneration effect - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE: A cosmetic composition having effects of anti-inflammation and skin regeneration is provided to protect skin from outer irritation and to normalize inflammatory skin. CONSTITUTION: A cosmetic composition for anti-inflammation and skin regeneration contains India Boswellia serrata resin extract and stearyl glycyrrhetinate or madecassoside as an active ingredient. Each stearyl glycyrrhetinate and madecassoside is contained in 0.001-10 weight%. The madecassoside is isolated from Centella asiatica. The cosmetic composition is used in the form of skin, lotion, nutrition cream, massage cream, essence, eye cream, eye essence, cleansing cream, cleansing lotion, cleansing foam, pack, powder, body lotion, hair tonic, or spray.

Description

Cosmetic composition having anti-inflammatory and skin regeneration effect {Cosmetic composition having anti-inflammation and skin regeneration effect}

The present invention contains Indian frankincense resin extract (Boswellia serrata resin extract) as an active ingredient, in order to double the effect of anti-inflammatory and skin regeneration efficacy components in stearyl glycyrrhetinate and Madecasoside (Madecassoside) It relates to a cosmetic composition which provides the anti-inflammatory and skin regeneration efficacy by using at least one kind.

Inflammation is a defense mechanism that attempts to minimize or restore the response of cells or tissues when they are damaged by causes such as stress or ultraviolet rays, causing cellular reactions to nerves, blood vessels, tissues, blood, etc. As a result, itching, fever, redness, pain, and tissue damage may occur. Under proper conditions, normal function is restored after the initial stage of inflammation, but if the stimulant that stimulates inflammation does not disappear or is made continuously, or is caused by various chemical mediators or proinflammatory cytokines secreted by cells damaged by external stimuli As vasodilation occurs and permeability increases, antibodies, plasma, and phagocytic cells rush to the site of inflammation, which causes skin inflammation and skin troubles.

Causes of inflammation include antibody reactions caused by external stress or antigens, immunological factors caused by cellular immune responses, physical factors caused by climate and environment, and chemical factors caused by chemicals. It is also caused by.

Inflammatory mediators include Vaso-active amines, Vaso-active polypeptides and other mediators. Vascularly active amines include histamine and serotonin, which are secreted from mast cells. It mainly acts to promote vasodilation and permeability. In addition, vascular active polypeptides include kinin, plasmin, and complement, which act as a vasoconstrictor, and lymphokines and arachidone such as interleukin-6 (IL-6). Acidic acid (arachidonic acid) is responsible for the inflammatory response. Arachidonic acid, produced by phospholipase activated by physical and chemical stimuli, again passes through two pathways, cyclooxygenase (COX) or lipooxygenase (prostaglandin) and leukotriene. (leukotrienes) are metabolized to mediate various inflammatory responses (Thomas. R., Rev. Physiol. Biochem. Pharmacol., 100, 1984, Pub. 10-2008-0020853).

In human keratinocytes or Langerhans cells, various cytokines can be produced and released by foreign substances. These cytokines are essential for skin irritation and local inflammatory reactions (J Appl Toxicol 16: 65-70, 1996). Indeed, irritant contact dermatitis increases Interleukin-6 (IL-6), Interleukin-1 (IL-1), and Tumornecrosis factor-α (TNF-α). Contact Dermatitis 35: 355-60, 1996, Dec). In addition, allergens have been reported to increase interleukin-6 (IL-6) specifically and have been reported to induce IL-6 and TNF-α by applying certain chemicals (Am J Contact Dermat 8: 8: 158-64, 1997). The relationship of Interleukin-8 (IL-8) to allergic reactions has also been reported (Contact Dermatitis, 35: 355-60, 1996 Dec). Stimulus-related cytokines include IL-1 and TNF-α, and allergic related cytokines include IL-6 and IL-8.

TNF-α is a representative cytokine secreted mainly by inflammatory cells or immune cells against external stimuli or infectious agents. In addition to interleukin-1 (IL-1), TNF-α is associated with infection, inflammation, autoimmunity, and allergy. It is a proinflammatory cytokine that plays a central role in mediating sexual diseases. Chronic inflammatory diseases in skin mediated by TNF-α include psoriasis, eczema or seborrheic dermatitis, and acute inflammatory diseases include contact dermatitis (Mache E and Descapms V, Ann. Dermatol. Venereol. 129 (12): 1374-9, 2002). In addition, TNF-α mediated allergic diseases include atopic dermatitis.

In order to inhibit TNF-α activity, a method of blocking TNF-α production, processing and secretion processes, or neutralizing TNF-α itself has been used. Specifically, the expression of TNF-α converting enzyme (TACE) and TNF-α genes that catalyze the degradation of membrane-bound form of TNF-α into soluble TNF-α Phosphodiesterase 4 or adenosine receptors that alter the resulting intracellular cAMP levels, several kinases involved in the activity of NF-kB, a major signaling system that induces TNF-α expression, and kinase (NIK, IKK, PKB), P38 and mitogen activated protein kinase (MAPK) such as c-jun N-terminal kinase (JNK) have been studied as major targets for TNF-α inhibition (public patent 10-2008-0051831).

By controlling the cytokines and suppressing the expression of inflammatory mediators, stimulation and inflammation can be controlled to promote skin normalization. Anti-inflammatory drugs act to reduce inflammation, reduce biological response and symptoms in order to eliminate inflammation. The substances used for the purpose of anti-inflammatory until now are nonsteroidal and include flufenamic acid, ibuprofen, benzydamine, indomethacin, and prednisolone in the steroid system. ), Dexamethasone (dexamethasone), and other neuropeptide antagonists, bradykinin antagonists, COX inhibitors, and the like have been proposed, but most of them have problems in terms of safety on skin and cosmetic formulations, and their use This is limited (public patent 10-2008-0020853).

In order to solve the above problems, the present inventors studied the anti-inflammatory effect and the search and combination of anti-inflammatory substances that can solve the stability problems in the formulation of cosmetics, anti-inflammatory effect, and the prescription for doubling the efficacy, as a result Indian frankincense resin extract The present invention was completed by discovering that containing and further containing stearyl glycyretinate or madecassoside doubles the effect of anti-inflammatory efficacy and skin regeneration component.

Therefore, an object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic composition that does not cause skin side effects, effectively inhibits skin inflammation, and has a skin cell regeneration effect.

In order to achieve the above object, the present invention is an Indian frankincense resin extract (Boswellia serrata resin extract); And it provides a cosmetic composition for anti-inflammatory and skin regeneration containing at least one of stearyl glycyrrhetinate and Madecasoside as an active ingredient.

The cosmetic composition having an anti-inflammatory and skin regeneration effect containing the Indian frankincense resin extract provided by the present invention protects the skin from external irritation, is not only safe for skin primary irritation, but also a signaling agent or inflammatory mediator of skin irritation. Cytokines such as TNF-α and IL-6, 8, which are the expression of molecules, may be controlled to be used for cosmetics for normalizing inflammatory skin, cosmetics for sensitive skin, and the like.

The present invention further contains at least one of stearyl glycyrrhetinate and Madecasoside as an active ingredient in an Indian frankincense resin extract (Boswellia serrata resin extract) having an anti-inflammatory effect and a skin regeneration effect. It provides a cosmetic composition.

Indian frankincense resin extract used in the present invention is a resin extract obtained from Indian frankincense. Indian frankincense (Boswellia serrata) is a genus of Boswellia, such as frankincense, which is a large, branched deciduous tree that grows abundantly in the dry hills of India, and its resin is similar to frankincense but softer incense. Since ancient times the resin has been an important substance in making incense, medicine, cosmetics and perfumes. This plant's resinous exudate is an external anti-inflammatory agent that cures various inflammatory symptoms in India and has been used in indigenous civilian use. In herbal medicine, frankincense is said to be spicy and bitter, and mild in mildness. It is effective in relieving pain and eliminating boils and is prescribed for abdominal pain, postpartum abdominal pain, menstrual pain, bruises, muscle cramps and malignant tumors. Resin is used as a stimulant, rheumatism treatment, and oil obtained from resin can be used as analgesic and diuretic. In modern medicine-pharmacology, the main uses of Indian incense are anti-arthritis and anti-inflammatory agents. Distillation of the resin yields about 3-10% of volatile essential oils, which contain anisealdehyde, alpha-pinene, and alpha-phellan-drene. . Inhaling incense can help calm asthma, colds, and coughs, as well as help with colds, rheumatism, respiratory problems, and nasal congestion. The main components of the resin include alpha, beta-boswellic acids, which are known to play an anti-inflammatory effect. Boswellic acid is a 5-lipooxygenase, a pro-inflammatory enzyme that causes inflammatory leukortienes, and human leukocyte elastase, a serine protease that initiates tissue damage and amplifies inflammation. (Human Leukocyte Elastase, HLE). It is also known to inhibit TNF-α, COX-2 and the like, which are representative cytokines of inflammation.

The Indian frankincense resin extract is prepared by drying the resin of the Indian frankincense tree, washing with ultrapure water, extracting the active ingredient with an extraction solvent, and filtering the extract. As an extraction solvent, 1,3-butylene glycol, propylene glycol, ethanol, ethyl One or more selected from the group consisting of acetate, diethyl ether and dimethyl sulfoxide can be used and can be extracted by a method such as supercritical extraction.

The Indian frankincense resin extract is contained in an amount of 0.01 to 10% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. In the present invention, in order to obtain the desired effect, the Indian frankincense resin extract is contained in an amount of 0.01 to 10% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. When used in less than 0.01% by weight it is difficult to expect the proper efficacy, when used in excess of 10% by weight may adversely affect the safety and stability of the product.

In addition, the stearyl glycidyl acid used in the present invention is a glycidyl acid derivative made to promote skin absorption and improve stability, the existing component of licorice having the main detoxification, anti-ulcer, anti-inflammatory, anti-allergic, anti-tumor efficacy It is more effective in relieving skin irritation and anti-inflammatory than chilicinic acid.

Madecassoside is also one of the four main components of the plant extract Centella asiatica, which grows widely in the subtropical regions of the Indian Ocean coast. It has been used as a folk medicine to treat the area, and especially madecassoside not only provides a protective effect by inhibiting inflammation, preventing keratinization and permeation of external environmental pollutants, but also accelerates collagen production and regenerates new flesh. It is known to keep scars as much as possible.

The Madecasoside and Stearyl glycyrrhetinate are each contained in an amount of 0.001 to 10% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. If the content of each component is less than 0.001% by weight, it is difficult to expect a good efficacy, when the content of more than 10% by weight may adversely affect the safety and stability of the product.

The cosmetic composition of the present invention prevents or alleviates skin irritation and inflammation, and provides the effect of alleviating or normalizing sensitive skin.

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention is not particularly limited to the formulation, softening longevity, astringent longevity, nourishing longevity, nutrition cream, massage cream, essence, eye cream, eye essence, cleansing cream, cleansing lotion, cleansing foam, cleansing water, It may be formulated as a pack, powder, body lotion, body cream, body oil, body essence, body cleanser, hair dye, hair tonic, scalpel treatment, lotion, ointment, gel, cream, patch or spray.

Hereinafter, the configuration and effect of the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to Examples and Test Examples, but the present invention is not limited only to these examples.

Reference Example 1 Preparation of Indian Frankincense Resin Extract

First, the raw material was washed with ultrapure water, dried and pulverized, 50% 1,3-butylene glycol per 100 kg of raw material was added at a rate of 200 kg to extract the active ingredient, and filtered using a 250 mesh and centrifuge. Filtration once again with 0.5 μm filter paper, followed by stirring for 2 hours with activated carbon for decolorization and deodorization, followed by filtration sequentially from 3 μm → 1 μm → 0.5 μm → 0.3 μm → 0.2 μm It was completely removed. Finally, 100 kg to 140 kg of the final product was obtained.

Reference Example 2 Preparation of Formulation Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Formulation Examples 1 and 2

A cream formulation in the form of an emulsion containing Indian frankincense resin extract obtained by the above method was prepared in the composition shown in Table 1 below.

Ingredient Content (% by weight) Formulation Example 1 Formulation Example 2 Formulation Example 3 Comparative Formulation Example 1 Comparative Formulation Example 2 Indian frankincense resin extract 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 - Madecassoside 0.02 0.02 - - - Stearyl glycyrrhetinate 0.30 - 0.30 - - EDTA-2Na 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02 glycerin 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 Butylene Glycol 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 Pentaerythritol tetraethylhexanoate 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 Meadowfoam Seed Oil 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 Squalane 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 Cetearyl Alcohol 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 Behenyl Alcohol 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 Fiji-60glycerylisostearate 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 Lipophilic glyceryl stearate
Glucoside 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 Glyceryl Stearate / Pig-100stearate 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 Hydrogenated Olive Oil Lauryl Ester 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 Shea Butter 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 Polyacrylate-13 / polyisobutene / polysorbate 20 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 Dimethicone 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 Preservative, fragrance, coloring Quantity Quantity Quantity Quantity Quantity Purified water Balance Balance Balance Balance Balance

Test Example 1 Skin Cell Recovery and Regeneration Effect: Culture of Human Skin Keratinocytes

Human Epidermal Neonatal Keratinocyte Cells were cultured to investigate the recovery and regeneration effects at the cellular level. This is a recommended method is to obtain commercially, human skin keratinocytes was purchased from Rhone its (Lonza, Inc. Walkersville, MD, USA), cultured, passaged and then, in the CO ₂ incubator (CO ₂ incubator), 37 ℃ The cells were cultured under 5% CO ₂ conditions. Cell cultures were in accordance with the guidelines of Lonza, Inc. Walkersville, MD, USA. In a 500 ml KBM-2 (Clonetics CC-3103) medium, KGM-2 Bullet Kit (BPE: Bovine pituitary extract (BPE) (2 ml), human epidermal growth factor (hEGF), insulin (0.5 ml) Insulin: 0.5 ml), Hydrocortisone (0.5 ml), Transferrin (0.5 ml), Epinephrine (0.5 ml), Gentamycin Sulfate + Amphofericin-B (Gentamycin Suflate + Amphofericin-B: GA- 1000, 0.5 ml)) was used.

After culturing human keratinocytes, Formulation Examples 1-3 and Comparative Formulation Example 1 were added to the human keratinocyte culture medium, and the samples were prepared by culturing the cells for 24 hours. On the other hand, as a control, human keratinocytes not treated with the cosmetic composition were prepared. The cells of each sample were observed under an optical microscope, which is shown in FIG.

Referring to Figure 1, it can be seen that the cells are recovered in the case of cells treated with Formulation Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Formulation Example 1 containing the Indian frankincense resin extract. In addition, in the case of the formulation examples 1 to 3 further containing stearyl glycyretinate or madecassoside in addition to the Indian frankincense resin extract, cell recovery is more effective, and containing both stearyl glycyretinate and madecassoside In the case of Formulation Example 1 it can be seen that the most effective in cell regeneration as the degree of cell recovery is the best.

Test Example 2 Inhibition Effect of IL-6 and IL-8: Quantitative-polymerase Chain Reaction (Q-PCR)

After culturing human keratinocytes in the same manner as in Test Example 1, the human keratinocyte culture solution was treated with interferon gamma, and then, Formulation Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Formulation Examples 1 and 2 were added thereto, and the cells were cultured for 24 hours. Was prepared. On the other hand, as a negative control group was prepared a normal cell group not treated with interferon gamma, a positive control group was prepared human keratinocytes not treated with the cosmetic composition.

After 24 hours of material treatment, cells were washed twice with 10 ml of Phosphate Buffered Saline (PBS) and total RNA in cells using Trizol reagent, Invitrogen, Carlsbad, Calif., USA. Was separated. The isolated RNA was purified once more using Kiagen's RNA kit (Qiagen RNeasy kit, Qiagen, Valencia, CA). From the isolated RNA, cDNA was synthesized using Invitrogen's Superscript Reverse Transcriptase (RT) II kit, Invitrogen, Carlsbad, Calif., And then real-time reverse transcription polymerase chain reaction (real time-reverse transcription). The expression of IL-6 and IL-8 genes was quantitatively analyzed by polymerase chain reaction (Q-RT-PCR). Changes in the expression patterns of the inflammation triggers IL-6 (Hs00174131-m1) and IL-8 (Hs00174103_m1) were evaluated using a TaqMan gene expression system from Applied Biosystems (TaqMan® gene expressionion assay kit, AppliedBiosystems, FosterCity, CA). -6 gene expression analysis results are shown in Figure 2, IL-8 gene expression analysis results are shown in Figure 3.

As can be seen in Figures 2 and 3, it can be seen that the expression of IL-6 and IL-8 gene is reduced when Comparative Formulation Example 1 and Formulation Examples 1 to 3 containing Indian frankincense resin extract are treated. . In addition, the treatment of Formulation Examples 1 to 3 containing stearyl glycyretinate or madecassoside in addition to the Indian frankincense resin extract more effectively expressed the IL-6 and IL-8 gene expression than the comparative formulation. It can be confirmed that, especially when treated with Formulation Example 1 it can be seen that the degree of inhibition of IL-6 and IL-8 gene expression is the best.

Test Example 3 Evaluation of TNF-α Biosynthesis Inhibitory Effect by Retinoic Acid Stimulation in Dermal Fibroblasts

Cultured dermal fibroblasts isolated from human epidermal tissue were cultured in 96 × well test plates with DMEM (Dulbecco's Modified Eagle's Medium, BioWhitakker) containing 10% FBS (Fetal Bovine Serum). ^Four were attached to each well and incubated for 24 hours. After culturing the cells with DMEM without FBS for about 24 hours, the Indian frankincense resin extract prepared in Reference Example 1, stearyl glycyretinate, and madecassoside were prepared in DMEM containing 1% FBS. After treatment by concentration, the culture solution was taken after incubation for 1 hour, and TNF-α by retinoic acid was performed by performing ELISA (using OptEIA Human TNF-α set by Pharmingen, Inc.) on TNF-α for 50 µl of each culture. The biosynthesis inhibition of was evaluated. As a negative control group, skin fibroblasts without treatment of test substance were used. The results are shown in Table 2 below.

ingredient Extract concentration (% by weight) TNF-α (pg / ml) % Inhibition Rate * Negative Control - 1.13 - Retinoic acid (100 μM) - 8.65 - Retinoic acid (100μM) + Indian frankincense resin extract Indian frankincense resin extract (1.0%) 4.69 52.7 Retinoic acid (100μM) + Indian frankincense resin extract + Stearyl glycyric retinate + Madecassoside Indian frankincense resin extract (1.32%), stearyl glycyrrhetinate (0.3%), madecassoside (0.02%) 3.01 75.0

* Calculation is based on the difference in TNF-α production of retinoic acid-treated dermal fibroblasts and cells treated with retinoic acid.

The amount of TNF-α increased by treating retinoic acid, which is a stimulant from Table 2, can be suppressed by treating the composition containing Indian frankincense resin extract, in particular, Indian frankincense resin extract, stearyl glycyretinate and madecasso When the side-mixed composition is treated, it can be seen that the biosynthesis of TNF-α, which is an inflammation mediator of retinoic acid stimulation in skin fibroblasts, is significantly inhibited.

1 is a cell photograph showing skin regeneration effects on cells treated with Formulation Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Formulation Example 1 to human keratinocytes and normal cells not treated with a cosmetic composition.

Figure 2 shows the results of the IL-6 gene expression analysis in human keratinocytes when treated with Formulation Examples 1-3 and Comparative Formulation Examples 1-2.

Figure 3 shows the results of IL-8 gene expression analysis in human keratinocytes when treated with Formulation Examples 1-3 and Comparative Formulation Examples 1-2.

Claims (4)

Indian frankincense resin extract (Boswellia serrata resin extract); And a stearyl glycyrrhetinate (Stearyl glycyrrhetinate) and Madecasoside (Madecassoside) containing an anti-inflammatory and skin regeneration cosmetic composition containing at least one as an active ingredient. The cosmetic composition for anti-inflammatory and skin regeneration according to claim 1, wherein the Indian frankincense resin extract is contained in an amount of 0.01 to 10% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. The method of claim 1, wherein the stearyl glycyrrhetinate and Madecasoside (Madecassoside) are contained in an amount of 0.001 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, characterized in that the anti-inflammatory and skin rejuvenating cosmetics Composition. The cosmetic composition for anti-inflammatory and skin regeneration of claim 1, wherein the composition inhibits the biosynthesis of interleukin-6, interleukin-8 or tumor necrosis factor-α.

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