KR20100059321A - Cosmetic composition containing licorice extract and natural thickeners for skin whitening - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE: A cosmetic composition for skin whitening containing Glycyrrhiza uralensis extract and natural tackifier is provided to ensure skin whitening effects and excellent usability and to improve skin condition. CONSTITUTION: A cosmetic composition for whitening contains Glycyrrhiza uralensis extract as an active ingredient and 0.1-3.0 weight% of bentonite and xanthan gum as a tackifier. The composition enhances skin moisturization. The cosmetic composition additionally contains propanediol, glycerin, 1,3-butylene glycol, propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, or sorbitol. The composition is used in the form of a lotion, massage cream, eye cream, eye essence, or essence.

Description

Cosmetic composition containing licorice extract and natural thickeners for skin whitening}

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for whitening containing licorice extract as an active ingredient and using bentonite as an inorganic thickener and xanthan gum as an organic thickener.

The emulsified particles produced in the cosmetics are eventually thermodynamically separated. Therefore, the thickener is used so that the cosmetic is not separated, and the thickener mainly used in the preparation of the cosmetic is synthetic polymer. Synthetic polymers have a uniform molecular weight and chain characteristics, so they can be uniformly increased, and they are relatively free from temperature effects.The polymer chains of synthetic polymers hold each other to fix the aqueous phase of the trauma and prevent the emulsified particles from agglomerating. Help not to

However, with increasing awareness of environmental pollution, consumers are increasingly seeking to find something safe in their daily necessities such as clothing and cosmetics. In particular, as research reports that various skin diseases such as atopy are caused by environmental pollution are continuously coming out, cosmetic ingredients are also of interest to consumers. In line with these movements, organically appealing products are pouring from various global companies, and the manufacturing guidelines for organic cosmetics restrict the use of synthetic polymers. Therefore, if the use of natural thickeners that can take the place of synthetic polymers in the manufacture of cosmetics, and even if using natural thickeners can be as effective as the increase using synthetic polymers, it is possible to manufacture environmentally friendly and harmless cosmetics will be.

Licorice extract, on the other hand, is known to have a whitening function, but due to its poor stability in cosmetic formulations, it is collected as a polymer material (eg, poly (methyl methacrylates)). It is known that the only way to do this is in the formulation.

Functional cosmetics are recommended to be used within three months after opening, because in just three months the potency drops to 90% of the initial potency. By the way, licorice extract is a natural substance that helps whitening, but the shelf life of the product containing it was not long because it is an unstable substance with a lower titer over time.

The inventors of the present invention have shown that the natural thickener can be used to produce a thickening effect using synthetic polymers. When the bentonite, which is an inorganic thickener, and xanthan gum, which is an organic thickener, are used together, the present inventors have shown that the thickening effect can be obtained when the synthetic polymer is used. Came out.

In addition, it was found that the pure licorice extract, which is not captured by the polymer, when the natural thickener is used, stably preserves the titer in the formulation for a long time.

Accordingly, an object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic composition that exhibits an excellent whitening effect by using only natural thickeners as thickeners and containing licorice extracts which are not collected as polymers as whitening ingredients.

In order to achieve the above object, the present invention provides a cosmetic composition for whitening containing licorice extract as an active ingredient, using bentonite and xanthan gum as a thickener.

The present invention by using a natural thickener can give a superior whitening effect and feeling than when using a synthetic polymer and improve the moisturizing persistence and overall skin condition. In addition, the licorice extract, which is an easy ingredient to be oxidized and is unstable in water, is stabilized in oil using a natural thickener to provide a cosmetic composition in which the activity of the active ingredient is stably maintained for a long time.

The cosmetic composition of the present invention contains licorice extract as an active ingredient, and bentonite and xanthan gum are used as natural thickeners.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail.

In the present invention, oil-soluble licorice extract (Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract) is used as a whitening ingredient. Licorice is rich in glycyrrhizic acid and glycyrrhetinic acid. It is effective for antipyretic and coughing cold and acts as an anti-inflammatory as an antidote for various toxic substances. In addition, it has been found to be effective for brightening, skin lightening and anti-aging. Oil-soluble licorice extract is a brown powder, has useful properties, is a functional test material, and is intended to be used in the formulation in order to be used as a functional cosmetic.

Bentonite used in the present invention serves as a viscosity adjuster to increase the viscosity of the emulsion as an inorganic thickener. Therefore, it is used to increase the viscosity and improve the stability of the emulsion in the manufacture of cosmetics such as creams, lotions, makeup compositions. In addition, it forms a lattice structure at the phase interface of oil phase and water phase, which are not mixed with each other, and functions as a dispersion stabilizer to help reduce the amount of surfactant and to reduce the stickiness of the polymer material. . In addition, bentonite has the property of absorbing excess sebum due to its porosity, and when applied to acne skin or oily skin, it absorbs oil and prevents grease from the skin. It can be used in products that require a lot of oil to reduce the oily feeling and provide a fresh feeling.

The xanthan gum used in the present invention is an organic thickener which is connected to the helix chains in solution to form a loosely bound matrix, and the increased hydrodynamic volume due to the helix. ) Is known to increase viscosity by causing viscosity build up. Xanthan gum is a natural thickener, which rarely contributes to the uniformity of the product, but contributes to increasing the stability of the product. However, the slippery feeling is dominant, and when used alone, it slows down skin absorption and causes white cloudiness. There are disadvantages.

In the present invention, in order to increase the emulsion, the bentonite and xanthan gum may be contained in amounts of 0.1 to 3.0% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. When the bentonite and xanthan gum are used independently of each other, they do not contribute to the stabilization of the emulsification system due to a slight increase in effect, but when used in a suitable combination ratio as described above, the increase in effect is increased. The increase by the complex system of inorganic and organic thickeners not only contributes to the stability of the cosmetics but also contributes to the stability of the potency of the active substance. In addition, when the thickeners are used together, the whitening of xanthan gum is reduced and the slippery feeling of bentonite is well captured, thereby improving the feeling of use.

The cosmetic composition of the present invention can be used in most cosmetic ingredients commonly used in the manufacture of cosmetics, the component is an efficacy ingredient used in cosmetics, such as moisturizing enhancement, wrinkle improvement, anti-aging, whitening enhancement or antioxidant ingredients It can be adjusted according to the purpose and use of each product.

The cosmetic composition of the present invention is a dicaprylyl carbonate, propanediol dicaprylate, squalane, squalane, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, or hydrogenated polydecene as an oil. Hydrogenated Polydecene, Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate.Dicaprate, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Ethyhexyl Palmitate, Octyldodecyl Myristate (Octyldodecyl) Myristate, Meadowfoam Seed Oil, Macadamia Nut Oil, Jojoba Oil, Caprylic / Capric Acid Triglyceride and Hydrogenated Isocetyl Use at least one member selected from the group consisting of Hydrogenated Isocetyl Olivate It can be, but is not limited only to most cosmetic oil components are all applicable.

The cosmetic composition of the present invention is propanediol, glycerin, 1,3-butylene glycol, propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol and sorbitol as polyols. One or more selected from the group consisting of may be used, but is not limited thereto. Most cosmetic polyol components may be applied.

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention is not particularly limited in its formulation, and may be formulated with softening cream, convergent makeup, nutrient cream, nutrition cream, massage cream, eye cream, eye essence, essence, and the like.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to Examples and Test Examples. However, the scope of the present invention is not limited to the following examples and test examples.

[Reference Example] Preparation of Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4

In the present invention, the cosmetics of Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4 were prepared according to the composition shown in Table 1 below by mixing the oil phase and the water phase with a homogenizer.

First, the components constituting the oil phase include polyglyceryl-3 methyl glucose distearate as a surfactant, behenyl alcohol as a wax, organic beeswax, organic shea butter as a butter, organic cocoa seed butter, It is composed of dicaprylylcarbonate, propanediol dicaprylate, and glyceryl caprylate, which acts as a preservative. In addition, the aqueous phase used sodium phytate as an ion blocker, white willow bark extract as a pH regulator, and propanediol as a polyol that acts as a moisturizing agent, and used as a whitening ingredient. , Product name; Licorice PT40, LOT NO .; OSLP-021427]. In addition, xanthan gum and bentonite were used in amounts of 0.1% by weight, respectively.

Example 1 is prepared by using a natural thickener and adding 0.05% by weight licorice extract. On the other hand, Comparative Example 1 was prepared as a control that does not contain licorice extract, Comparative Example 2 was increased using only xanthan gum, Comparative Example 3 was increased using only bentonite, Comparative Example 4 is a natural increase It was increased by using a polymer thickener (CARBOPOL).

Raw material name Example 1 Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Comparative Example 3 Comparative Example 4 Five
Work
Prize Surfactants Polyglyceryl-3methylglucose distearate 3 3 3 3 3 Wax Behenyl Alcohol 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2 Organic Beeswax 2 2 2 2 2 butter Organic Shea Butter 4 4 4 4 4 Cocoa Seed Butter 4 4 4 4 4 oil Dicaprylylcarbonate 5 5 5 5 5 Propanediol dicaprylate 5 5 5 5 5 antiseptic Glyceryl Caprylate 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Number
Prize Purified water 69.35 69.40 69.35 69.35 69.35 Ion Blocker Sodium Phytate 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 pH regulator White Willow Bark Extract 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 Thickener Xanthan Gum 0.1 0.1 0.2 - - Bentonite 0.1 0.1 - 0.2 - Carbopol (Polymer Thickener) - - - - 0.2 Moisturizer Propanediol 5 5 5 5 5 Whitening ingredients Soluble Licorice Extract 0.05 - 0.05 0.05 0.05

Cosmetics were prepared by the following method. The oil phase was first weighed into one beaker and then warmed to 75 ° C. to completely dissolve. At this time, the water phase was also heated to 70 ℃ completely dissolved. After moving the water phase to the homogenizer was slowly added to the oil phase while increasing the RPM. After 5 minutes of mixing at 7200 RPM, when the temperature of the mixed phase is about 50 ℃, the oil-soluble licorice extract was administered.

Test Example 1 Formulation Stability by Thickener Type

After preparing Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4, the formulation stability after the next day and 3 days after standing at room temperature and high temperature (45 ℃) was visually observed. The results are shown in Table 2 below.

Stability results ingredient Room temperature stability High Temperature (45 ℃) Stability Next day 3 days later Next day 3 days later Example 1 Stable with uniform formulation Stable with uniform formulation Stable with uniform formulation Stable with uniform formulation Comparative Example 1 Stable with uniform formulation Stable with uniform formulation Stable with uniform formulation Stable with uniform formulation Comparative Example 2 Stable with uniform formulation Stable with uniform formulation Stable with uniform formulation Phase separation started Comparative Example 3 Stable with uniform formulation Stable with uniform formulation Phase separation started Phase separated Comparative Example 4 Stable with uniform formulation Stable with uniform formulation Stable with uniform formulation Stable with uniform formulation

Looking at the results of Table 2, Comparative Example 2 and Comparative Example 3, which was increased by using bentonite or xanthan gum alone, the formulation is stable at room temperature, it can be confirmed that the stability of the formulation is relatively poor due to phase separation at high temperature. have.

Test Example 2 Evaluation of Activity of Stability of Whitening Cosmetic Composition

To determine the titer stability of licorice extract in the composition according to the present invention, the potency of pure licorice extract not collected into the polymer as it is in the formulation and the licorice extract collected into the polymer in the formulation Stability was measured.

The potency stability measurement method is as follows. Approximately 5.5 g of the sample was precisely weighed, 20 mL of methanol was added thereto, dispersed in an ultrasonic wave, and 50 mL of methanol was added to prepare a sample solution. Separately, weigh about 10 mg of standard Glybridine (C ₂₀ H ₂₀ O ₄ : 324.38) standard, which is a component of oil-soluble licorice extract, precisely add 100 mL of methanol to dissolve it, and accurately add 5 mL, 20 mL, and 40 mL of this solution. 100 mL of the solution was used as the standard solution. 10 μl each of the sample solution and the standard solution were tested according to the liquid chromatograph method under the following conditions, and the gloridine content in the sample was determined using the calibration curve obtained from the peak area of the standard solution.

The results are shown in Table 3 below.

Early 2 weeks 4 Weeks 6 weeks Licorice Extract
(Raw material) 25 ℃ 100.00 94.2 106.5 94.8 40 ℃ 92.7 110.1 95.2 Example 1 25 ℃ 100.00 93.4 104.0 94.8 40 ℃ 93.8 101.4 92.2

As can be seen from the results in Table 3, by injecting the pure licorice extract not collected into the polymer as it is, the titer stability is expected to be very poor, although in Example 1, the titer is stably preserved for 6 weeks It can be confirmed.

Test Example 3 Viscosity Trend According to Type and Content of Thickener

The viscosity of Example 1 and Comparative Examples 2 to 3 was measured to confirm the effect of increasing according to the type and content of the thickener used. Viscosity measurements were measured using VISCOMETER (BROOKFIELD DV-II + Pro). The cosmetics were placed in a 100 mL viscous bottle and measured at 12 RPM using SPINDLE No. 3.

The results are shown in Table 4 below.

Viscosity Trend by Type and Content of Thickener sample Viscosity Example 1 8000cP Comparative Example 2 5300cP Comparative Example 3 4900cP Comparative Example 4 7500cP

As can be seen from the results in Table 4, the viscosity of Example 1 using 0.2% by weight of xanthan gum and bentonite mixture than that of 0.2% by weight of xanthan gum or 0.2% by weight of bentonite alone Remarkably high, even when using the same amount of the thickener can be confirmed that the thickening effect is greater when the two thickeners are used in combination. In addition, it can be seen that the case of Example 1 using a natural thickener rather than the case of Comparative Example 4, which is increased using Carbopol, which is a synthetic polymer, has a better thickening effect.

Test Example 4 Comparison of Whitening Efficacy

In order to verify the whitening efficacy, a clinical experiment was conducted with Example 1, Comparative Example 1, and Comparative Example 4. The test subjects were 15 healthy female subjects over 25 years old and the duration of the test was 6 weeks. Example 1, Comparative Example 1 and Comparative Example 4 were each used for 5 weeks for 6 weeks, and the efficacy and safety of the product was evaluated at the time point after 6 weeks of use.

In order to evaluate the whitening efficacy of the product, ITA (Individual Typology Angle) -value and Redness value were measured. ITA-value is a value measured by the machine called CHROMAMETER. The machine emits bright light when it hits the skin, and measures and displays the light information of the pigmented and non-pigmented areas of the skin differently. . The lower the ITA-value and the closer to white, the higher the ITA-value is. Therefore, the higher the whitening effect, the higher the ITA-value. Redness value is also measured by CHROMAMETER. The redness value represents an uneven feeling of skin texture, and the smaller the value, the more the whitening effect is exhibited. The measurement results are shown in Table 5 below. In addition, when Example 1 was used, it was shown in Figure 1 that the skin surface pigmentation site and the skin in the skin observed.

Example 1 Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 4 ITA-value 33.65 27.43 30.65 Redness 10.11 13.72 10.8

As can be seen in Table 5, in the case of Example 1 and Comparative Example 4 containing the oil-soluble licorice extract ITA-value is large, the Redness value is small compared to Comparative Example 1 not containing the oil-soluble licorice extract whitening effect It can be seen that is significantly superior. In addition, when comparing Example 1 using a natural thickener and Comparative Example 4 using a synthetic polymer, it can be seen that the ITA-value of Example 1 is larger, and the redness value is smaller, resulting in better whitening effect.

In addition, through the use of Example 1 of the composition according to the present invention also through Figure 1 it can be confirmed that over time the swelling of the skin subsides and the skin tone becomes brighter.

[Test Example 5] skin moisturizing effect experiment

In order to find out the moisturizing sustainability of the skin at one time of application, 50 adults, men and women in their 30s and 40s who are considered to be dry skin, or apply the cosmetic composition of Example 1 to the inside of the face and forearm, Skin moisture content was measured using a corneometer (CM820 courage Khazaka electronic GmbH, Germany) for 24 hours. The conniometer measures the moisture level by measuring the amount of moisture by measuring the amount of moisture in the amount of water present in the epidermis of the skin using a sensor and quantifying the amount of water, and the measuring method is as follows.

1) The Koniometer probe was placed on the skin area to be measured.

2) When the probe is pressed on the skin, the electrical conductivity of the skin is quantified through the sensor and displayed on the screen.

3) The measurement was repeated with different measurement sites.

4) After measuring once, the sensor was wiped with a tissue such as Kimwipe and then measured again.

In the above method, the moisture content of the skin was measured using a Koniometer at constant temperature and humidity conditions (24 ° C., 40% humidity) before starting the coating as the basic value, and the change after 12 hours and 24 hours was measured. The results are shown in Table 6 below.

Skin moisture content (%) sample Before application 12 hours later 24 hours later Example 1 25 52 49 Comparative Example 2 25 45 26 Comparative Example 3 26 34 25 Comparative Example 4 24 43 27

In the results of Table 6, when the Comparative Examples 2 to 4 were applied, the skin moisture content increased to some extent after 12 hours after application, but after 24 hours, it was found to return to the state before application. On the other hand, when applying Example 1, a cosmetic composition increased with a natural thickener to the skin, the moisturizing power lasted more than 24 hours, it was confirmed that the effect of increasing the skin moisture content is also significantly higher than Comparative Examples 2-4.

Test Example 6 Evaluation of the Dry Skin Improvement Effect

At the end of Test Example 5, subjects were subjected to subjective efficacy evaluation through a questionnaire survey on the improvement of dry skin after using Example 1 in the test subjects. The questionnaire survey was to indicate the degree of satisfaction of the skin dryness improvement effect very good, good, moderate and poor, and the results are shown in Table 7 below.

Skin dryness improvement effect questionnaire sample Respondents Very good Good usually Inadequate Example 1 28 20 2 0 Comparative Example 2 10 15 20 5 Comparative Example 3 7 13 10 20 Comparative Example 4 6 9 15 20

From the results of Table 7, it can be seen that the case of Example 1 which is a cosmetic composition increased by the natural thickener according to the present invention than the case of Comparative Examples 2 to 4 has an excellent skin dryness improvement effect.

Figure 1 shows the skin surface pigmentation photo results (top) and skin pigmentation photo results (bottom).

Claims (4)

A whitening cosmetic composition containing licorice extract as an active ingredient and using bentonite and xanthan gum as thickeners. The cosmetic composition for whitening according to claim 1, wherein the bentonite and xanthan gum are contained in an amount of 0.1 to 3.0% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. The cosmetic composition for whitening according to claim 1, wherein the composition promotes skin moisturization. According to claim 1, wherein the composition is a cosmetic composition for whitening, characterized in that formulated in softening, converging cosmetics, nourishing cosmetics, nutrition cream, massage cream, eye cream, eye essence or essence.

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