KR20090116755A - Novel cosmetic cream composition comprising c12-c20 fatty acid - Google Patents

Abstract

Vanishing creams remain one of the most widely used cosmetics, as they provide unique sensory and tactile benefits. These include inter alia, a dry and matte end-feel, which helps to overcome the oily and shiny appearance of the skin. Vanishing creams spread easily on the skin and get rapidly absorbed therein. Moreover, use of such creams help to reduce the dryness of skin thereby alleviating flakes, cracks and roughness. Owing to their widespread use, they serve as effective vehicles for delivery of actives. Traditional vanishing creams contain high levels of fatty acid, generally stearic acid or a combination thereof with palmitic acid, typically ranging from 16 to 20 % by weight. They also contain salts of fatty acids, generally alkali metal soap, which acts as the emulsifier. However the high level of fatty acids, typically used in the formulation, poses problems with chemical and physical stability of some actives, especially acidic actives. On reducing fatty acid content, certain consumer desired sensory benefits, such as rub-in effect and the viscosity of the cream, are adversely affected. In addition to the above, it is known that in vanishing creams containing high levels of stearic acid, especially containing high levels of actives such as niacinamide, the end-feel and sensorial aspects of the cream are also adversely affected. The present inventors have found that vanishing creams containing relatively lower amounts of fatty acid can be made by including particulate matter selected from talc, starch or its derivatives, along with a relatively higher amount of fatty acid soap, without significantly affecting the above-mentioned benefits desired by the consumers. The present inventors have also found that on application of the composition to the skin, an instant glow is observed, which is a much sought after product attribute.

Description

New cosmetic cream composition containing C12-C20 fatty acid {NOVEL COSMETIC CREAM COMPOSITION COMPRISING C12-C20 FATTY ACID}

The present invention relates to a cosmetic cream base, in particular to an improvement of existing vanishing cream bases, and to cosmetic cream compositions obtained therefrom.

Any discussion of the prior art throughout this application should never be considered to recognize that such prior art is widely known or forms part of the general knowledge common in the art.

Vanishing cream is still one of the most widely used cosmetics because it provides unique sensory and tactile benefits. This includes a dry, unbridled finish that, among other things, helps to overcome the appearance of oily and shiny skin. Vanishing creams readily spread on the skin and are quickly absorbed by the skin. In addition, the use of such creams reduces the dryness of the skin and helps to relieve flakes, cracks and roughness. Due to its wide use, it serves as an effective vehicle for the delivery of the active agent.

Traditional vanishing creams generally contain fatty acids which are stearic acid or combinations thereof with palmitic acid at high levels, typically in the range of 16% to 20% by weight. It also contains salts of fatty acids which are generally alkali metal soaps which act as emulsifiers. Emulsifiers are important for the physical stability of the product. Soaps are formed by neutralizing some of the fatty acids in situ with caustic or any other base.

Vanishing cream offers several of the benefits mentioned above, but has some drawbacks and disadvantages associated with its use. The high levels of fatty acids typically used in formulations present problems with the chemical and physical stability of some active agents, especially acidic active agents. Accordingly, some attempts have been made in the past to produce vanishing creams using relatively low levels of fatty acids. The inventors have found that when reducing fatty acids, the viscosity of the cream and the sensory benefits for certain consumer purposes, such as the rub-in effect, are adversely affected. In addition to the above, it is known that the finish and sensory aspects of the cream are also adversely affected in vanishing creams containing active agents such as high levels of stearic acid, especially high levels of niacinamide.

U.S. Patent No. 2005/0036971 (Biersdorf AG) describes compositions for pearlescent cosmetics containing up to 12% by weight of fatty acids. Neutralize some of the fatty acids to form alkali metal salts. The composition comprises associating polymers, amphoteric polymers and fatty alcohols as other major constituents to meet the desired product attributes. Amphoteric and associative polymers are specialty materials. Using it in cosmetics will probably increase costs and offset the benefits.

The present inventors have prepared a vanishing cream containing a relatively small amount of fatty acids without significantly affecting the above-described benefits desired by the consumer by incorporating a particulate material selected from talc, starch or derivatives thereof with a relatively large amount of fatty acid soap. It was found that it can. In addition, the inventors have found that when the composition is applied to the skin, an instant glow, which is much desired in the product properties, is observed.

Combinations of talc and fatty acids in cosmetic compositions have been reported, inter alia, for makeup creams, foundation creams and soaps. Generally, such cream formulations require very high amounts of talc, ranging from 10% to 30%, and small amounts of fatty acids, typically less than 5%.

U.S. Patent No. 4 800 076 (1989, Johnson & Johnson Consumer Products Inc.) contains very small amounts of fatty acids and very large amounts of talc in the ratio of certain nonvolatile components to talc. Skin hygiene compositions in the form of creams and lotions are described. It is shown above that the desired properties of the skin care composition are improved. Since the patent describes a cosmetic composition that contains essentially a relatively large amount of talc, the teachings of the patent cannot be extended to a vanishing cream composition. There is no specific disclosure of fatty acid based vanishing creams introduced herein and the optimal balance between fatty acids and talc.

We provide a solution to the problem in the field of fatty acid based vanishing cream. In addition, a reduction in stearic acid and an increase in the level of particulate material, which is a corresponding relatively inexpensive raw material, will also substantially reduce raw material costs.

It is an object of the present invention to overcome or ameliorate at least one of the disadvantages of the vanishing cream base of the prior art or to provide a useful alternative.

It is an object of the present invention to provide a cream base comprising relatively small amounts of fatty acids without significantly affecting the sensory benefits associated with use.

It is an object of the present invention to provide a vanishing cream composition comprising a relatively small amount of fatty acids without adversely affecting the viscosity of the cream composition.

It is an object of the present invention to provide a vanishing cream composition which enhances the brightness of the skin.

It is an object of the present invention to provide a vanishing cream composition capable of introducing and delivering a relatively high level of benefit agent while maintaining the essential sensory properties.

These and other objects of the present invention will become more readily apparent upon consideration of the following summary and detailed description.

<Overview of invention>

According to one aspect of the invention, i. 4.0 wt% to 12.0 wt% C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ fatty acid, ii. 1.0% to 5.0% by weight of fatty acid soap, and iii. There is provided a cosmetic cream base for topical application comprising from 2.5% to 10.0% by weight particulate material selected from talc, starch or derivatives thereof.

Preferably, the particulate material is talc. Preferably, the composition comprises 6.0% to 10.0% by weight of C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ fatty acids. Preferably, the composition comprises 3.0 to 5.0 weight percent talc. Preferably, the ratio of fatty acid to fatty acid soap is 10: 1 to 1.5: 1 parts by weight, more preferably 3: 1 to 2: 1 parts by weight.

According to another aspect of the invention, there is provided a cosmetic cream composition comprising a cosmetic cream base and a benefit agent.

According to another aspect of the present invention, there is provided a method of improving the appearance of the skin by applying a cosmetic cream composition to the skin.

fatty acid

The composition preferably comprises 4-12% by weight, more preferably 5.0-8.0% by weight of C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ fatty acids. It is also preferred that the fatty acid is 6% by weight of the composition. Preference is given to using C ₁₄ -C ₁₈ fatty acids. It may be a single fatty acid, such as palmitic acid, or a mixture with its stearic acid, called hysteric acid. More preferably, the fatty acid is stearic acid with 18 carbon atoms.

Fatty acid soap

The composition preferably comprises 1.0% to 5.0% by weight, more preferably 2.0% to 3.0% by weight of fatty acid soap. The term "fatty acid soap" is used to denote alkali metal salts and alkaline earth metal salts of fatty acids. It is preferred that the soap is a sodium or potassium salt. Fatty acids and fatty acid soaps are preferably saturated. Soaps of fatty acids are obtained by neutralizing some of the fatty acids with a suitable base such as sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide. This forms a system comprising fatty acids in combination with fatty acid soaps that act as emulsifiers and stabilizers for creams.

The weight ratio of fatty acid to fatty acid soap is 10: 1 to 1.5: 1, preferably 3: 1 to 2: 1.

Particulate matter

The particle size of the particulate material is preferably less than 50 μm, more preferably 5 μm to 15 μm.

Starches obtained from rice or corn are preferred. A preferred derivative of starch is aluminum octenyl succinate, available as Dry-Flo PC (manufactured by Natural Starch). Talc is the preferred particulate material. The cosmetic cream composition preferably comprises talc at 3.0 wt% to 5.0 wt%, more preferably 3.0 wt% to 4.0 wt%. Talc useful in the present invention is a cosmetic grade talc according to the Cosmetic Toiletry and Fragrance Association Inc. specification. These talc is essentially white, ground from natural rock It is a odorless fine powder, which typically consists of about 90% hydrated magnesium silicate of the formula Mg ₆ (Si ₈ O ₂₀ ). (OH) ₄ , with the remainder being calcit, chlorite, dolomite, kaolin and magnesite It is made of natural minerals. It is preferable that talc does not contain asbestos minerals. Preferred particle sizes are between 4 μm and 8 μm.

Benefit

The present invention also provides an effective cream base for introducing and delivering high levels of benefit agents such as vitamins without significantly affecting the finish of the product.

The cream base allows the benefit agent to be introduced and delivered at high levels, typically 2% to 10.0% by weight. Suitable benefit agents include skin lightening agents, UV absorbers, moisturizers and emollients. It is preferred that the benefit agent is a skin lightening or UV absorber material. Suitable skin lightening agents are alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, hydroquinones and derivatives of niacin, lactic acid and / or acyloxy lactylate (e.g. arbutin), kojic acid, the formula HOOC- (C _x H _y ) -COOH (where , x is in the range of 4-20 and y is in the range of 6-40, for example azelaic acid and sebacic acid, ascorbic acid and derivatives thereof, or ferulic acid. Additional skin lightening agents include organic sunscreens such as retinol and derivatives, 4-t-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane and / or 2-ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, inorganic suns such as micronized titanium dioxide and zinc oxide Screen, and may typically be included in less than 0.5% by weight. Further preferred skin lightening agents are niacin and niacinamide. Niacinamide is also known as pyridine-3-carboxylic acid amide. The above is a known skin lightening agent, and is preferably included in an amount of 0.1 to 3.0 wt%.

Skin whitening achieved by the compositions of the present invention is reversible and does not have any side effects. The composition according to the invention is active during both day and night.

Other supplements and emotional substances

In addition to these essential elements, cosmetic cream compositions may also include preservatives, thickeners, perfumes and colorants which are compatible for cosmetic use. The composition is also pharmaceutically acceptable for cosmetic use selected from the group consisting of sorbitan esters, ethoxylated sorbitan esters, ethoxylated alkyl ethers, ethoxylated fatty acid ethers, fatty alcohols, ethoxylated fatty alcohols, and esters of glycine and fatty acids. Emulsifiers may be included in small amounts.

Examples of moisturizers and humectants include polyols, glycerol, cetyl alcohol, paraffin oil, lanolin and derivatives thereof, fatty acid esters and the like. Silicone compounds such as silicone oils, cyclomethicones, dimethicones and dimethiconols may also be included.

Softener materials (fluid oils) selected from the group of silicone oils and synthetic esters may be incorporated into the compositions of the present invention.

Silicone oils may be included as softener materials in the composition. It is preferably selected from cyclic or linear polydimethylsiloxanes having 3 to 9 silicon atoms, preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms. Other silicone oils may also be included, such as polyalkyl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes, and polyether siloxane copolymers (eg, dimethicone copolyols). Polyalkyl siloxanes useful herein include, for example, polydimethyl siloxanes having a viscosity at 25 ° C. of 5 centistokes to 100,000 centistokes, preferably polydimethyl siloxanes having a viscosity at 25 ° C. of 10 centistokes to 400 centistokes. Include.

Suitable ester softeners include esters of fatty acids or alcohols and hydrocarbons, preferably isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isostearyl palmitate, tridecyl salicylate, C _12-15 octanoate and isopropyl stearate C ₈ -C ₂₀ alkyl esters of the same fatty acid, or any mixture thereof.

The oil can be used alone or in mixture with another.

The composition of the present invention most preferably further comprises a component selected from the group consisting of antioxidants, reducing agents, chelating agents and mixtures thereof to improve the stability of cosmetic creams. These ingredients provide an additional level of protection against oxidation of skin benefit agents in cosmetic creams. Typical examples of antioxidants, reducing agents and chelating agents for the compositions of the present invention can be found in the CTFA International Costmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 4th Edition, The Cosmetics, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association Inc., Washington DC, 1991). have.

Preferred reducing agents are sodium sulfite, sodium bisulfite, sodium metabisulfite, sodium thiosulfite, or other thiols such as thioglycerol, thiourea, thioglycolic acid and cysteine and the like. Preferred antioxidants include 6-hydroxy-2,5,7,8-tetramethylchroman-2-carboxylic acid (trolox), propyl gallate, n-propyl trihydroxybenzoate, t-butyl hydroquinone, Butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT), butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA), tocopheryl acetate, ascorbyl palmitate, hydroquinone and dibutyl hydroquinone and the like. Suitable examples of chelating agents include, but are not limited to, organic aminophosphonic acid and organic phosphonic acid components, including EDTA, citric acid, tartaric acid, and some commercially available compounds sold by Monsanto. Preference is given to 1-hydroxyethylene (1,1-diphosphonic acid). Organic aminophosphonic acids are organic compounds comprising at least one phosphonic acid group and at least one amino group.

Suitable organic aminophosphonic acid components for use herein include aminoalkylene poly (alkylene phosphonic acids) and nitrilotrimethylene phosphonic acids. Examples of organic aminophosphonic acid components of this type include certain commercially available Dequest compounds sold by Monsanto. Preferred are aminotri (methylene phosphonic acid) (Dequest T2006), diethylene triamine penta (methylene phosphonic acid) and hexamethylene diamine tetra (methylene phosphonic acid).

Other suitable additional heavy metal ion sequestrants for use herein include nitrilotriacetic acid and polyaminocarboxylic acids such as ethylenediaminotetraacetic acid or ethylenetriamine pentaacetic acid. Another suitable additional heavy metal ion sequestrant for use herein is an iminodiacetic derivative such as 2-hydroxyethyl diacetic acid or glyceryl imino diacetic acid.

Antioxidants are included in the compositions of the present invention in amounts of 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1% to 5% by weight, most preferably 0.2% to 4% by weight. The reducing agent is included in the composition of the present invention in an amount of 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight, most preferably 0.2 to 4% by weight. Chelating agents are included in the compositions of the present invention in an amount of 0.01% to 1% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 0.5% by weight, most preferably 0.05% to 0.3% by weight.

The invention will be illustrated by way of example. The examples are illustrative only and do not limit the scope of the invention in any way. Unless indicated otherwise, all percentages mentioned herein are based on w / w of the composition.

Example 1

Cosmetic cream compositions containing various levels of fatty acids, talc and fatty acid soaps were prepared. The details of the formulations are shown in Table 1 below.

The product properties of Compositions 1 to 6 are shown in Table 2 below.

step

Phase A component was heated to 75 ° C. Phase B was heated to 75 ° C. in a vessel separate from the vessel of phase A. Phase B was added to Phase A at 75 ° C., stirred for 20 minutes, and then Phase C was added at 70 ° C. The temperature was reduced to 55 ° C. and slurry of talc in water was added. Thereafter, the phases were combined while mixing and the heating was stopped. Phase E was heated to 50 ° C. and mixed into phases A and B. The mixture was cooled to 40 ° C. and then other ingredients were added. The formulation was cooled to 35 ° C. and packed.

The viscosity of the composition was measured and the results are included in Table 2 above. Composition 1 was a control product with ideal viscosity and other desirable product attributes. It will be evident that the viscosity of compositions 2 and 3 is so low that it is below the acceptable limits, and composition 6 has been found to have a consistency such as water. The viscosity of composition 5 was within acceptable limits, but the product could not be easily developed due to the product giving a draggy feel on the skin upon application.

Hysteric acid, a 55:45 mixture of palmitic acid and stearic acid, is a commercially available product. The average equivalent weight of hysteric acid is 270 g / equivalent. Thus, 270 g of the product are reacted with stoichiometric equivalents, ie 56.1 g of potassium hydroxide (KOH), to form 308 g of potassium salt (soap) of histeric acid.

Accordingly, in the composition, hysteric acid will react with potassium hydroxide to form some hysteric acid soap, and unreacted hysteric acid will remain in fatty acid form in the composition. Based on the above calculations, the amounts of hysteric acid and potassium salts (soaps) of hysteric acid in Compositions 2 to 6 were calculated and shown in Table 3 below.

It was evident that Compositions 2, 3, 5 and 6 are outside the scope of the present invention. On the other hand, Composition 4 with a ratio of free acid to soap of 1.68: 1 meets the desired viscosity profile and also provided the desired sensory benefit. Sensory evaluation of the compositions listed in Table 1 by expert panellists indicated that the properties of Composition 1 (Control) and Properties of Composition 4 were similar.

Example 2: Evaluation of Product Attributes

In general, Composition 4 was evaluated by the consumer for the desired product attributes. In experiments conducted with the assistance of 220 in-house panelists, individual attributes were tested and scored for attributes provided by the use of commercially available skin whitening and skin hygiene creams. The product was randomly distributed to all panelists, who applied the face twice a day for 8 days. In each application, about 0.5 g of product was used. At the end of 8 days, they were asked to rate the products they used on a scale of 1 to 5 (1 is low and 5 is high) for desirable product properties. The data set was then processed statistically. The results were collected and shown in Table 4 below.

It has been found that the compositions according to the invention are consistently highly appreciated in all desired product properties and in some cases higher than other products. Thus, it was possible to provide these properties using relatively inexpensive materials.

Example 3: Determination of Brightness Index of Cosmetic Creams According to the Present Invention, and Comparison with Commercially Available Skin Whitening Vanishing Cream

Thin films of the cosmetic cream composition were drawn on a Leneta black / white card (form 2A) using a 75 μm applicator. The opacity of the thin film was measured using a Hunterlab Labscan XE instrument under the following conditions.

D65 illumination, Cielab 10 degree color scale.

Measuring area = 0.7 "diameter circle.

Reflection mode (45 degrees).

The opacity of the wet film was measured 5 minutes after application and the opacity of the dry film was measured after 24 hours by placing the film on the mechanical illumination port. Opacity measurements were performed according to standard Hunterlab protocol. That is, the comparison was made between black and white substrates. Color measurements were performed on white substrates. The results are shown in Table 5 below.

It will be appreciated that the brightness index measured by the L ^* value indicates that the immediate brightness provided by the cream according to the invention is similar to a conventional cream with a high commercially available stearic acid content and without any talc. In addition, it will be appreciated that the L ^* value of such commercially available creams is significantly reduced after 24 hours but the L ^* value of composition 4 is still very high. As such, it indicates that the exemplified compositions provide instant solidification and also maintain this for a significant time.

Example 4: Study of Prolonged Stability of the Product

The effect of temperature on the viscosity of composition 4 was studied over 12 weeks and the results are shown in Table 6 below.

In the table, "V" represents viscosity and "CV" represents cohesion value. Even if the product is stored at 50 ° C. for 12 weeks, it will be readily appreciated that there is no significant change in viscosity or tack value that makes the product unsuitable for use.

The protocol for the measurement of the viscosity and the adhesion value is shown below.

Viscosity

The Brookfield viscometer LVDV-1 + was used in Helipath mode and a special coupling was used to attach the T-bar spindle to the viscometer. The drive motor slowly lowered or raised the viscometer so that the T-bar spindle created a helical path to the test sample, thereby eliminating channeling problems. The spindle was kept in contact with about 100 g of product in the beaker and the spindle was rotated at 4 rpm. Prior to use, a SMC 1000 and Code 96 adjustment was performed on a viscometer.

The movement of the heli-pass was adjusted to move up and down for 1 minute. As the helipass moved, three readings were recorded when the helipass made a sound after one 30-second move up or down was completed. Readings were averaged and repeated twice. Tapping the beaker before and after each reading ensures that the beaker does not contain any air pockets in the cream. All viscosities were measured at 27 ° C.

Protocol for Adhesion Values-Cream

The instrument measures compound properties according to a number of fluidity parameters. This provides useful control over the accuracy of cream preparation.

The cream layer was sandwiched between circular disks and suspended on a spring balance and a platform that could be moved down at a constant speed. As the platform moved, the attraction on the cream broke. The reading at this point was the adhesion value.

For this study, a Parco® Spring Balance CV Meter or similar instrument from Labfine® Instruments could be used. The platform was moved by an electric motor. The disk was 2.5 inches in diameter, and the distance between the disk and the platform, determined by three circular studs on the disk, was 3/16 inches.

About 50 g of cream was required to measure the adhesion value at 27 ° C. The value was measured and reported in g.

Example 5

Composition 4 was modified to form new composition 7, which falls within the scope of the present invention. Various functional attributes and properties of the product were measured. The formulations are shown in Table 7 below. The process used to prepare the cream is as described above. Comparative Composition 8, comprising a large amount of fatty acid and having a high ratio of fatty acid: fatty acid soap, was prepared as a control cream.

Vesta Talc was obtained from Kingslay Corp, Kolkata, India.

The levels of fatty acids, fatty acid soaps and talc and the ratio of fatty acids to fatty acid soaps are shown in Table 8 below.

A professional sensory evaluation panel of 20 experienced members observed that Composition 7 provided the user with a very soft and non-stiff feeling that is very demanding. This was achieved by significantly reducing free fatty acid levels but maintaining the desired ratio between free fatty acids and fatty acid soaps in the composition. In addition, the same panel shows the color of the composition 7, creamy appearance, lightness in the container, creamy feeling in use, slipperiness in use, stickiness in use, lightness in use, skin temperature in application, wet-feel It was observed that desirable properties of ease of development, rate of absorption, soft feeling, aroma, slip after final use, stickiness and after-feel after use were found similar to those of composition 8.

It will be appreciated that the illustrated embodiment provides a vanishing cream composition comprising relatively small amounts of fatty acids without significantly affecting the viscosity of the product and sensory benefits associated with use.

It will also be appreciated that the illustrated embodiment provides a vanishing cream composition that enhances the brightness of the skin.

In use, a small amount of the composition, for example 1 ml to 5 ml, is applied to the exposed side of the skin from a suitable container or applicator, and then developed and / or painted on the skin using hands or fingers as needed.

While the present invention has been described with reference to specific embodiments, those skilled in the art will recognize that the present invention may be practiced in many other forms.

Claims (11)

i. 4.0 to 10.0 weight percent of a C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ fatty acid, ii. 1.0% to 5.0% by weight of fatty acid soap, and iii. A cosmetic cream base comprising from 2.5% to 10.0% by weight particulate material selected from talc, starch or derivatives thereof. The cosmetic cream base of claim 1, wherein the particulate material is talc. The cosmetic cream base of claim 1 or 2 comprising 3.0 to 5.0 weight percent talc. The cosmetic cream base of claim 1, wherein the weight ratio of fatty acid to fatty acid soap is 10: 1 to 1.5: 1. The cosmetic cream base of claim 4 wherein the ratio is from 3: 1 to 2: 1. The cosmetic cream base of claim 1, comprising 5.0 wt% to 8.0 wt% C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ fatty acid. The cosmetic cream base according to any one of claims 1 to 6, comprising 2.0% to 3.0% by weight of fatty acid soap. The cosmetic cream base according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the fatty acid is stearic acid. Cosmetic cream composition comprising a cosmetic cream base according to any one of claims 1 to 8, and 0.1 to 10.0% by weight benefit agent. The cosmetic cream composition of claim 9, wherein the benefit agent is niacinamide. A method for improving the appearance of the skin by applying the cosmetic cream composition of claim 9 to the skin.