FR2789397A1 - Cosmetic compositions in the form of a mousse made by expanding an oil in water emulsion of the soap type under the action of a gas - Google Patents

Abstract

Oil in water emulsions of the soap type are converted into cosmetics with a light mousse texture by expansion with a gas. Composition in the form of a mousse obtained by expanding an oil in water (O/W) emulsion of the soap type by the action of a gas.

Description

The so-called "light texture" cosmetic compositions are formulated for

  improve the sensations perceived by the consumer during and after the application of this type of product. During use, these compositions spread easily on the skin and penetrate quickly. After use, they do not leave a greasy or sticky residual film. These compositions are currently preferred to richer textures because they combine a particularly pleasant cosmetic feel and ease of use. They make it possible to use makeup products immediately after application. In the case of body compositions, they make it possible to dress quickly after application without waiting for the

drying the composition.

  These so-called "light texture" compositions are most often compositions in the form of fluid gel-creams. These are more or less gelled oil-in-water (O / W) type emulsions obtained by the use of known emulsifiers and gelling agents. The continuous aqueous phase, in large quantities, evaporates quickly during application. The dispersed oily phase, in a smaller amount, consists of fatty substances such as silicones or synthetic esters. These fatty substances are selected according to their spreading power, their more or less volatile nature, and their non-greasy and non-sticky feel. As a result, by properly choosing the quantity of aqueous phase and the nature of the oily phase of the formula, compositions known as “light texture” are easily obtained having good spreading power and rapid penetration, which does not leave no greasy or sticky feeling on the skin. But it also results therefrom that the gels-creams are poor in emollient fatty substances and do not bring all the necessary comfort to the skin. In addition, their smooth appearance

  and homogeneous does not match the image of a light product.

  Cosmetic compositions are also known which consist of

  an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion obtained by the use of stearic acid.

  In the presence of alkaline compounds, such as potassium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide or triethalolamine, stearic acid saponifies and forms a stearate, more commonly called "soap". The viscosity of this type of product is variable depending on the amount of saponified stearic acid. This gives thick creams or fluid milks also called "body lotion". Due to their richness in fatty acids, these compositions have very good emollient properties on the skin. However, due to this richness, they present a cosmetic touch which sometimes lacks lightness. So for the formulation of so-called "light texture" compositions, do we tend to use

  other types of composition than a "soap" type emulsion.

  It is therefore advisable to find a composition which has both:

  - an aspect which evokes lightness.

  - good spreading power and rapid penetration during use, - a non-greasy and non-sticky feeling on the skin after application, and

  - the ability to bring emollience and comfort to the skin.

  This is why the present application relates to new “light texture” cosmetic compositions in the form of

foam obtained by expansion.

  More specifically, it relates to compositions consisting of an O / W emulsion of the soap type which is expanded under the action of a gas. It was discovered that it was possible to obtain such a composition having both an original appearance evoking the lightness, the ease of spreading, the speed of penetration, the non-greasy and non-sticky feeling of the so-called light textures, and the emollient character of "soap" type emulsions. It was also surprisingly discovered that these compositions exhibited remarkable perfuming power and made it possible to optimally restore the various olfactory notes of the aromatic compositions which they contained. From the structural point of view, these compositions are characterized in particular in that they comprise: - a gas which occupies from 10 to 90% by volume of the composition and preferably from 60% to 80% by volume. He is present in the composition

  in the form of bubbles from 15 to 35 Itm in diameter.

  - A lipophilic phase comprising one or more fatty acids representing at least% of the lipophilic mass. This lipophilic phase represents 5% by weight of the composition, and preferably 15% to 25% by weight. an aqueous or hydrophilic phase comprising water, one or more glycols, a gelling agent and an alkaline compound. This aqueous phase represents 85% by weight of the composition, and preferably 70 to 80% by weight. In addition to these basic constituents, they advantageously contain: - one or more aromatic substances. The aromatic substance (s) can represent from 0.05 to 10% by weight of the composition, and

  preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight.

  - one or more active substances which can represent from 0.5 to 10%

  by weight of the composition, and preferably from 1% to 8% by weight.

  According to the invention, the gas used is preferably air or nitrogen. It occupies from 10 to 90% by volume of the composition and preferably

  from 60% to 80% by volume, in the form of bubbles 15 to 35 im in diameter.

  According to the invention, the fatty acid or acids used are preferably stearic acid and myristic acid, or lauric, cetyl, palmitic and oleic acids. These fatty acids preferably represent from 30 to% by weight of the lipophilic phase, and particularly from 50 to 60% of this phase. According to the invention, water represents from 70 to 95% by weight of the

  hydrophilic or aqueous phase, and preferably 80 to 90% of this phase.

  The glycols used are advantageously glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol and dipropylene glycol. They can represent in particular from 0.5 to 20% by weight of the hydrophilic phase, and

  preferably 5 to 15% of this phase.

  The gelling agent is preferably a carbomer such as ULTREZ 10, a crosslinked acrylate / alkyl ClO: C30 acrylate copolymer such as PEMULEN sold by the company GOODRICH. It can represent from 0.01 to 1.5% by weight of the hydrophilic phase, and preferably 0.1 to 0.3%

of this phase.

  The alkaline agent can in particular be potassium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide or triethalolamine. It can represent in particular from 0.5 to 5% in

  weight of the hydrophilic phase, and preferably 1.00 to 1.5% of this phase.

  According to the invention, the aromatic substances used constitute the fragrance of the composition. This perfume can be formed from a mixture of essential oils, for example coriander, orange, lemon, bergamot, rose, geranium, cloves, eucalyptus, mint, thyme or lavender as well as a mixture of odorous substances such as aliphatic and aromatic alcohols, aliphatic or aromatic aldehydes, ketones, esters and ethers. They represent in particular 0.05 to 7% by weight of the composition and preferably from 0.1 to 3% by

weight.

  According to the invention, the active substances used constitute the ingredients which give the composition its particular cosmetic properties. These active agents are for example various known compounds with anti-aging properties such as anti-free radical compounds (tocopherols, vitamin E, vitamin C, carotenoids, flavonoids, phenolic compounds, sugars or trace elements such as selenium ...) and anti-glycation compounds, with anti-wrinkle properties such as a-hydroxy-acids or P-hydroxy-acids, compounds with firming, restructuring or tensive properties such as vegetable soy or wheat proteins, rich algae extracts amino acids or silicon derivatives, with hydrating properties such as hyaluronic acid, chitin or chitosan, urea, amino acids, lactic acid and its salts, PCNa, sorbitol or derivatives of silicon, with emollient and repairing properties of the skin hydrolipidic film such as waxes, butters or vegetable oils rich in essential fatty acids, phospholipids o u ceramides. These active substances represent in particular 0.5 to 10% by weight of the composition and

  preferably from 1 to 8% by weight.

  The compositions according to the invention may also contain, conventional cosmetic adjuvants chosen from fatty substances (esters of fatty acids, oxyethylenated or not, vegetable or mineral or synthetic oils, non-volatile or volatile silicone oils, etc.), organic solvents (ethyl alcohol and other polyols such as hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols), thickeners (polyacrylic acids, gums, cellulose derivatives), chemical filters (octylmethoxycinnamate, benzophenones, butyl methoxy dibenzoylmethane), stabilizers, preservatives, dyes, pigments or all dispersible powders insoluble in the lipophilic and hydrophilic phases or any other ingredient

  used in cosmetics in particular for the manufacture of emulsions.

  The compositions are prepared in 2 stages: 1. Manufacture of the non-expanded composition according to known techniques for preparing emulsions of the "soap" type, 2. Proper expansion of the composition obtained previously, for example using a IMT M1 type blower equipped with a blowing turbine and marketed by the company IMT, or a planetary mixer equipped with a whisk and marketed by the company KENWOOD or

  of any other known apparatus which may proliferate.

  The gas incorporated by expansion is advantageously air

and / or nitrogen.

  The more the gas is incorporated in the form of bubbles of small diameters,

  the more stable the composition according to the invention over time.

  The cosmetic compositions according to the invention have: - an original and characteristic appearance which evokes lightness, - good spreading power and rapid penetration during use, - a non-oily and non-sticky feeling on the skin after application , - the capacity to bring emollience and comfort to the skin - a good perfuming power and a power of restitution of the different notes

  olfactory aromatic compositions optimized.

  Due to good spreading power and rapid penetration during use, a non-greasy and non-sticky feeling on the skin after application, the compositions according to the invention can be used as

  care product for the face or body and as a makeup product.

  More particularly, the emollient properties and the comfort provided to the skin make it possible to use the compositions according to the invention as

  products for the care of dry skin.

  By virtue of its perfuming properties, the compositions according to the invention can be used for perfuming the skin of the body and of the face in place of a perfuming cream or as a perfumed deodorant cream. The characteristic texture of the compositions according to the invention facilitates the formation of foam and therefore allows these compositions to be used as a hygiene product, such as those intended for cleaning the skin, for removing make-up.

  face or shaving products.

  The compositions filled with nitrogen make it possible to obtain products which are particularly stable over time, without oxidation of the fatty substances and without altering the olfactory rendering of the perfume composition. Due to this good stability, the amounts of preservative and antioxidant, known for their irritant properties on the skin can be reduced, which gives the compositions a better tolerance compared to the compositions.

not expanded with nitrogen.

  The presentation in the form of a foam of the compositions according to the invention also makes it possible to avoid pressurized packaging, known for its flammable risk, and the use of aerosol gases, which are highly

  regulated and known to degrade the ozone layer.

  The following examples illustrate the present application.

  EXAMPLE 1 Facial Treatment Foam A facial treatment foam was prepared which corresponds to the following weight formula: Phase A PEG100 glyceryl stearate stearate 22.00% (sold by the company SEPPIC) Stearic acid 12.00 % Octyldodecanol 6.00% UV filter 1.50% mixture of preservatives 0.65% (phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, butylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben) Phenoxyethanol 0.35% Vitamin E acetate 0.20% Phase B Demineralized water 58.16% Glycerol 5.00% Propylene glycol 3 0.00% potassium hydroxide 0.90% EDTA 3Na 0.05% Phase C Demineralized water 10.00% ULTREZ 10 0.14% (Carbomer, marketed by GOODRICH) Phase D Fragrance composition 0.50% Operating mode On mixing the ingredients of phase A at 70 ° C. and with stirring until homogeneous. Separately, the ingredients of phase B are mixed at 70 ° C. and with vigorous stirring until homogeneous. Still separately, the two ingredients of phase C are mixed at 65 ° C. and with stirring until homogeneous. Then mixed at 70 C and with stirring phase A and phase B, then added at 65 C and still with stirring phases C and D. Then allowed to cool to room temperature The above crude composition is swelled at nitrogen using an IMT 'M1 aerator equipped with an aerator (marketed by the

IMT company, Dunkirk).

  A care foam is thus obtained which is packaged in

heat-sealed jars.

  Example 2 Foam Body Cream A foam body cream corresponding to the following weight formula was prepared: Phase A Demineralized Water 51.40% Glycerol 5.00% Propylene Glycol 3.00%

PEG-6, 32 2.00%

  Potassium hydroxide 0.90% EDTA 3Na 0.05% Phase B Glyceryl stearate 1.50% Stearic acid 6.00% Myristic acid 6.00% Octyldodecanol 6.00% Mixture of preservatives 1.00% (phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, butylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben) Phase C Demineralized water 10.00% PEMULEN TR-1 0.10% Acryl-C10-C30 alkyl / acrylate cross-linked polymer Phase D Aluminum starch octenyl succinate 3.00% (marketed by STARCH) Nylon-12 2.00% Phase E Perfuming composition 2.00% Phase F red coloring solution qs Procedure Procedure The ingredients of phase A are mixed at 70 ° C and stirred until homogeneous. Separately, the ingredients of phase B are mixed at 70 ° C. and with vigorous stirring until homogeneous. Still separately, the two ingredients of phase C are mixed at 65 ° C. and with stirring until homogeneous. Then mixed at 70 C and with stirring phase A and phase B, then added to 60 C and still with stirring phases C, D, E and F.

  Then allowed to cool to room temperature.

  The above crude composition is swelled with nitrogen using an IMT M1 swirler equipped with a swirling turbine (sold by the

IMT company, Dunkirk).

  A care foam is thus obtained which is packaged in

heat-sealed jars.

EXAMPLE 3 Shaving Foam

  A shaving foam corresponding to the weight formula above has been prepared.

  below: Phase A Demineralized water 64.80% ULTREZ 10 0.20% (Carbomer, marketed by GOODRICH) Glycerol 5.00% Aloe vera gel 2.00% Potassium hydroxide 0.90% Mixture of preservatives 1 , 35% (parabens) Quaternary ammonium 0.90% Phase B Stearic acid 12.00% Jojoba oil 2.00% Shea butter 4.00% PEG-7 glycerylcocoate 2.00% Phase C Decylglucoside 4.00% Phase D Perfuming composition 0.50% Menthyle lactate 0.30% Phase E Green coloring solution qs Mode of operation The ingredients of phase A are mixed at 70 ° C and stirred until homogeneous. Separately, the ingredients of phase B are mixed at 70 ° C. and with vigorous stirring until homogeneous. Still separately, the ingredients of phase C are mixed at 65 ° C. and with stirring until homogeneous. Phase A and phase B are then mixed at 70 ° C. and with stirring, then phases C, D and E are added at 60 ° C. and still with stirring.

  then let cool to room temperature.

  The above crude composition is swelled with nitrogen using an IMT M1 swirler equipped with a swirling turbine (sold by the

IMT company, Dunkirk).

  A care foam is thus obtained which is packaged in

heat-sealed tubes.

  The physico-chemical controls carried out on the products according to

  the invention are presented below in Table 1.

TABLE 1

EXAMPLE 1 EXAMPLE 2 EXAMPLE 3

  FOAM CREAM FOAM CREAM

FACE BODY SHAVING

  Appearance Whipped cream Whipped cream Shaving foam Color White Pale pink Pale blue-green reflections Density 0.220 to 0.230 0.220 to 0.230 0.220 to 0.230 pH 7.06 7.12 7.04 Hardness 18.5 mm 18.5 mm 18.5 mm Nitrogen content 70% 70% 70% Average size of 25 pm 25 km 25 m nitrogen bubbles2 _ __: Measured by penetrometer on BERLIN PNR 10 equipped with a 112 g rod cone

  and measured during a fall of 5 seconds.

2 Measured under a microscope.

  Sensory analysis The sensory profile of the facial care cream according to Example 1 was evaluated and compared to that obtained with the same formula.

care not overrun.

  The evaluations were carried out by a panel of 10 judges

  trained, under standardized conditions.

  The products were presented monadically, in a random order, and applied to one half of the face (one product per side of the face determined randomly) for approximately 10 minutes, then to the hand (one product on each hand) for two hours to measure the intensity and the

  afterglow after application.

  After statistical analysis, significant differences between the expanded formula according to the invention and the unexpanded formula were highlighted. Thus, in comparison with the non-expanded product, the expanded cream has the following characteristics: - with a more intense fragrance aspect With a much more pronounced airy appearance - with a much lighter grip a slightly easier to take With a more intense fragrance - on application Slightly more slippery during spreading Slightly sharper smoothness Much more marked feeling of lightness Slightly more intense fragrance - just after application Slightly more intense fragrance intensity for one hour afterwards application three minutes after application À does not leave a shiny film 25. very weak film feeling

Claims (10)

  1. A composition in the form of foam obtained by expansion consisting of an O / W emulsion of the soap type which is expanded under the action of a gas. 2. A composition in the form of a foam according to claim 1, characterized in that it comprises: - a gas occupying from 10 to 90% by volume of the composition and present in said composition in the form of bubbles of 15 to 35 μm of diameter, - a lipophilic phase representing 5 to 25% by weight of the composition, one or more fatty acids representing at least 30% by weight of said lipophilic phase, - an aqueous or hydrophilic phase representing 65 to 85% by weight of the composition and comprising water, one or more glycols, a gelling agent and an alkaline compound.   3. A composition in the form of foam according to one of   Claims 1 and 2 characterized in that it comprises one or more   aromatic substances representing from 0.05 to 10% by weight of the composition. 4. A composition in the form of foam according to one of   Claims 1 to 3 characterized in that it comprises one or more   active substances representing from 0.5 to 10% by weight of the composition.   5. A composition in the form of foam according to one of   Claims 2 to 4, characterized in that the fatty acid (s) represent   30% to 70% by weight of the lipophilic phase.   6. A composition in the form of foam according to one of   Claims 1 to 5 characterized in that it comprises, as air gas   or nitrogen occupying from 60% to 80% by volume of the composition.   7. A composition in the form of foam according to one of   Claims 2 to 6 characterized in that it comprises, as fatty acid   stearic acid, myristic acid, lauric acid, cetylic acid, acid palmitic or oleic acid.   8. A composition in the form of foam according to one of   Claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the lipophilic phase represents 15%   at 25% by weight of the composition. 9. A composition in the form of foam according to one of   Claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the alkaline agent represents 0.5% at % by weight of the composition.   10. A care product for the face or the body, a makeup product or a hygiene product characterized in that it is in the form   of a foam composition according to one of claims 1 to 9.   1il. Process for the preparation of a composition in the form of   foam as defined in one of claims 1 to 7 characterized in that   the non-expanded composition is prepared according to the known techniques for preparing "soap" type emulsions, then in that the   proper expansion, for example with the help of an overrun.