KR20080050949A - Stretch woven fabrics including polyester bicomponent filaments - Google Patents

Abstract

A stretch woven fabric including the polyester bi-component filament is provided to improve high stretching and recovering characteristic by adjusting the crimp shrinkage value of polyester bi-component continuity filament. A woven cloth is selected from a group consisting of a plain weave, twill weave, and satin weave. A 15-55 wt% of a warp consists of poly-ethylene terephthalate and poly-trimethylene terephthalate. A polyester bi-component continuity filament exists in the warp and the weft, and the crimp shrinkage value of a polyester bi-component continuity filament lies in about 20-80%. A 5-60 wt% of the weight of woven fabric consists of poly-ethylene terephthalate and poly-trimethylene terephthalate. The warp or the weft consists of about 15-55 wt% of the polyester bi-component continuity filament of core spun poly-spray type consisting of poly-ethylene terephthalate and poly-trimethylene terephthalate.

Description

Stretchable Woven Fabric with Polyester Bicomponent Filament {STRETCH WOVEN FABRICS INCLUDING POLYESTER BICOMPONENT FILAMENTS}

<Cross Reference of Related Application>

This application is a partial consecutive application of US Patent Application No. 10 / 718,483, filed November 20, 2003, which is incorporated herein by reference.

The present invention relates to woven fabrics, in particular woven fabrics comprising polyester bicomponent filaments of poly (ethylene terephthalate) and poly (trimethylene terephthalate) oriented in the warp direction and optionally in the weft direction.

In general, polyester bicomponent fibers comprising poly (ethylene terephthalate) and poly (trimethylene terephthalate) are known. Such fibers are disclosed, for example, in US Patent Application Publication No. US2001 / 0055683 (currently US Pat. No. 6,803,000 B2). Such fibers are disclosed in US Patent Application Publication No. 2003/0092339 and Japanese Patent Application Publication Nos. JP2002-004145, JP2001-303394, JP11-172545, JP2001-316923, and JP2002-180354. And woven fabrics as disclosed in JP2002-1555449.

However, such fabrics may have a high proportion of polyester bicomponent fibers, and fabrics that use these fibers more efficiently are sought.

Summary of the Invention

The present invention relates to warp-extending woven fabrics of plain weave, twill or runner weave structures. The woven fabric has a weft and warp yarns, and about 15 to about 55 weight percent of the warp yarns are polyester bicomponent continuous filaments comprising poly (ethylene terephthalate) and poly (trimethylene terephthalate). The polyester bicomponent slope preferably has a crimp shrinkage value after thermal curing of about 20% to about 80%.

<Detailed Description of the Invention>

It has been found in the present invention that obliquely-extending woven fabrics with unexpectedly high stretch and recoverability can be produced despite the inclusion of relatively low concentrations of certain polyester bicomponent yarns.

Justice

As used herein, “polyester bicomponent filaments” comprise two different polyesters intimately bonded to one another along the length of the filament, such that the filament cross-section can form a useful crimp, for example. Equation, eccentric sheath-core, or other suitable cross-section means a continuous filament. "Yarn" means a plurality of continuous filaments. "Pick-and-pick" means a woven structure in which polyester bicomponent filament weft yarns ("first yarn") and ("second") weft yarns are present as alternating picks of a fabric. "Co-insertion" means a woven structure in which polyester bicomponent filament yarns ("first yarn") and ("second") weft yarns are woven together in the same pick. "Separately woven" means that the threads are separated from each other in the final fabric without being twisted or tangled together before being woven; “Separately woven” herein does not exclude weaving a collection of substantially similar filaments (optionally entangled with each other) or weaving into a co-insertion structure.

As used herein, the term “spandex” means a manufactured filament wherein the filament forming substrate is a long chain synthetic polymer comprising at least 85% by weight of segmented polyurethaneurea.

As used herein, the term “elastoester” means a manufactured filament wherein the filament forming substrate is a long chain synthetic polymer comprising at least 50 wt% aliphatic polyether and at least 35 wt% polyester.

The term "lastol" as used herein is a fiber of a crosslinked synthetic polymer having low, but significant crystallinity. The polymer is a metallocene based polyolefin comprising at least 95% by weight of ethylene and at least one other olefin unit. This fiber is elastic and substantially heat resistant.

The fabric of some embodiments is a warp-stretch woven fabric selected from the group consisting of plain weave, twill and runner weave structures. The warp-stretch fabric has a weft and a warp. The slope is about 5 to about 60 weight percent, such as about 10 to about 60 weight percent, and about 15 to about 55 weight polyester bicomponent continuous filaments comprising poly (ethylene terephthalate) and poly (trimethylene terephthalate) % And about 22 to about 33 weight percent. Other warp yarns may be, for example, spun staple yarns such as cotton, wool or linen; They are also monocomponent poly (ethylene terephthalate) fibers, monocomponent poly (trimethylene terephthalate) fibers, polycaprolactam fibers, poly (hexamethylene adipamide) fibers, acrylic fibers, modacrylic fibers, acetate fibers, rayon fibers And combinations thereof.

The weft may be the same or different from the warp. The fabric may be only warp-extension, or it may be bi-extension, in which useful stretch and recovery are seen in both warp and weft directions; Such weft-extension may be provided by polyester bicomponent filament yarns, spandex, melt-spun elastomers and the like. If the weft yarns comprise a polyester bicomponent filament (“first”) yarn, they may be present with a second yarn (optionally spun staple yarn), for example in a pick-and-pick or co-insertion structure.

The bicomponent filament yarn is any desired amount based on the total fabric weight, for example about 10 to about when the polyester bicomponent filament is not present as a weft yarn (i.e., the polyester bicomponent filament is present only in a ramp). 30 weight percent, such as about 13 to about 28 weight percent and about 13 to about 19 weight percent. When bicomponent filaments are present in both warp and weft yarns, the bicomponent filament yarns may be present in greater amounts, for example, from about 10 to about 60 weight percent, such as from about 20 to about 40 weight percent.

The polyester bicomponent filaments comprise poly (ethylene terephthalate) and poly (trimethylene terephthalate) in a weight ratio of about 30/70 to about 70/30, and the crimp shrinkage value after heat curing is about 20% to about 80%, Preferably from about 30% to about 60%. If the comonomer does not adversely affect the amount of fiber crimp and the benefits of the present invention are not adversely affected, various comonomers may be incorporated in small amounts into the polyester of the bicomponent filaments. Examples include linear, cyclic and branched aliphatic dicarboxylic acids (and diesters thereof) having 4 to 12 carbon atoms; Aromatic dicarboxylic acids (and their esters) having 8 to 12 carbon atoms (eg, isophthalic acid, 2,6-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid and 5-sodium-sulfoisophthalic acid); And linear, cyclic and branched aliphatic diols having 3 to 8 carbon atoms (eg 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-propanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 3-methyl-1, 5-pentanediol, 2,2-dimethyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol and 1,4-cyclohexanediol). Preference is given to isophthalic acid, pentane diacid, 5-sodium-sulfoisophthalic acid, hexanediacid, 1,3-propanediol and 1,4-butanediol. Polyesters may also contain additives such as titanium dioxide.

The linear density of the polyester bicomponent filament yarns making the fabric of some embodiments may range from about 10 denier to about 900 denier, such as about 70 denier to 450 denier (11 dtex to 1000 dtex, such as 78 dtex to 500 dtex). have.

In some embodiments, the polyester bicomponent filament yarn is not a twisted or entangled combination with other, for example monocomponent or staple fibers. That is, in these embodiments, the bicomponent filament yarns can be woven separately from other yarns in the fabric to eliminate the cost of additional steps, to obtain high stretch and recoverability, and also to provide high smoothness of the fabric surface.

In other embodiments, the polyester bicomponent filaments can be twisted, entangled, or core-spun with other fibers or filaments to provide additional advantageous properties. These properties include reducing the exposure of the bicomponent filaments and providing different textures to the fabric. In these embodiments, multicomponent yarns can be prepared comprising polyester bicomponent filaments in addition to other fibers or filaments that may be staples, continuous filaments and optionally textured fibers. These other fibers or filaments are referred to as relatively inelastic yarns (also sometimes as cotton yarn, polyester yarn, nylon yarn, rayon yarn and wool yarn, as well as elastomeric yarns such as rubber filaments, bicomponent and elastomer esters, rastol and spandex). It is included.

Multicomponent yarns may also include coated yarns in which one fiber is surrounded, twisted or mixed with another fiber or yarn. Coated yarns, including elastomeric fibers and hard yarns are also referred to as "composite yarns". When using elastomeric fibers, a hard yarn coating is provided to protect the elastomeric fibers from wear during the weaving process. Such wear can fracture elastomeric fibers, resulting in process downtime and unwanted fabric non-uniformity. In addition, the coating aids in the elastic behavior of the elastomeric fibers, allowing the composite yarn extension to be more uniformly controlled than is possible with uncoated elastomeric fibers during the weaving process.

(a) enveloped one fiber with different fibers; (b) double wrapping one fiber with another fiber; (c) continuous coating of one fiber with staple fibers (ie core spinning) followed by twisting during winding; (d) mixing and tangling two or more fibers with an air jet; And (e) many types of composite yarns, including two or more different fibers or yarns twisted together. An example of a composite yarn is a core spun yarn. "Corespun yarn" consists of a detachable core surrounded by a spun fiber sheath. Elastomer corespun yarn is made by introducing an elastomeric filament into the front drafting roller of the spinning frame, where it is covered with staple fibers.

Many combinations of bicomponent polyesters with elastomeric and / or hard yarns can be included. For example, the bicomponent polyester filaments can be combined with one or more hard yarns without additional elastomeric fibers. Alternatively, the bicomponent polyester can be combined with one or more elastomeric fibers and also optionally one or more hard yarns. The elastomeric filaments may be present in an amount of from 0 to about 50 weight percent, such as from about 1 weight percent to about 10 weight percent of warp or weft yarns.

In embodiments comprising additional elastomeric fibers, lower weight percent bicomponent polyesters are needed to achieve the desired stretch recovery of fabrics comprising these multicomponent yarns. Suitable fabrics may include multicomponent yarns having bicomponent filaments and one or more elastomeric filaments. In these multicomponent yarn-containing fabrics, the polyester bicomponent filaments are at least about 1% to about 60% by weight, such as from about 3% to about 55%, from about 5% to about 33% by weight, And from about 5 weight percent to about 25 weight percent and from about 10 weight percent to about 25 weight percent. In fabrics comprising multicomponent yarns, including polyester bicomponent yarns, the polyester bicomponent filaments can range from about 0.5% to about 50% by weight, such as from 1% to about 35% by weight, based on the total fabric weight. To about 28% by weight, about 13% to about 28% by weight, about 13% to about 19% by weight, and about 8% to about 20% by weight (which is a bicomponent polyester filament inclined). Alone or when present as warp and weft).

In some embodiments, up to about 3% by weight of resin or similar material is present in or attached to the fabric, because this resin treatment can add cost, and the benefits of the present invention are achieved without incurring this cost. to be. Another advantage of the present invention is that the polyester in the bicomponent filaments does not need to be partially removed from the fabric by the application of chemical means, for example chemical treatments such as high alkali solutions. While such resin and chemical treatments may be used with the present invention, the inventors believe that the stretchability and recoverability of the woven fabric may be impaired and therefore it is desirable to eliminate this additional step. However, additional materials, such as resins, may be added in any desired amount to achieve additional advantages.

The fabric of some embodiments may have a plain weave, twill or runner weave structure. Examples of useful twill structures include regular twill (eg 2/1, 1/2, 1/3 and 2/2 twill), modified twill (where additional lift is added to the weaving mode). , Herringbone and pointed twill. Examples of useful main structure include five-end (eg 1/5 and 2/5) and 8-end (eg 3/8) weaving.

Fabrics of some embodiments are useful for a variety of end uses. These include garments and garments such as pants, shirting and jackets, for example denim pants or jeans and jackets as well as furniture.

Loom types that can be used to make the woven fabrics of the present invention include air-jet looms, shuttle looms, water-jet looms, rapier looms and gripper (projectile) looms.

Prior to testing, the fabrics and fibers were conditioned at 21 ° C. +/− 1 ° C. and 65% +/− 2% relative humidity for 16 hours.

The shrinkage value after thermal curing was measured as follows. Samples of the bicomponent polyester filaments used were formed with a skein reel at a tension of about 0.1 gpd (0.09 dN / tex) with a total denier 5000 +/- 5 (5550 dtex). Skane was conditioned at 70 +/- 2 ° F. (21 +/- 1 ° C.) and a relative humidity of 65 +/- 2% for a minimum of 16 hours. Suspend the suspension substantially vertically from the stand, hang 1.5 mg / den (1.35 mg / dtex) weight (e.g., 7.5 g for 5550 dtex scale) on the bottom of the scale and the weighed scale equilibrates The length was allowed, and the length of the scan was measured within 1 mm and recorded as "C _b ". 1.35 mg / dtex weight remained on the scale during the test period. The 500 g weight (100 mg / d; 90 mg / dtex) was then suspended from the bottom of the strain and the length of the strain was measured within 1 mm and recorded as “L _b ”. Crimp shrinkage value (%) (as described below for this test, prior to thermal curing) “CC _b ” was calculated according to the following equation.

CC _b = 100 X (L _b -C _b ) / L _b

The 500 g weight is removed and the strain is then suspended on a shelf, the 1.35 mg / dtex weight is still in place and thermally cured in the oven at about 225 ° F. (107 ° C.) for 5 minutes, then the shelf and scale Phosphorus was removed from the oven and conditioned for 2 hours as described above. This step is designed to simulate commercial dry heat cure, one method of forming the final crimp on bicomponent fibers. The length of the strain was measured as described above, and the length thereof was recorded as "C _a ". The 500 g weight was suspended again from the scale and the length of the scale was measured as described above and recorded as "L _a ". The crimp shrinkage value (%) "CC _a " after thermal curing was calculated according to the following equation.

CC _a = 100 X (L _a -C _a ) / L _a

In the examples, unless otherwise stated, a Dornier rapier loom is used at 500 picks per minute, with plain fabrics having 55 picks per inch (22 picks / cm) and 62 picks per inch in the loom state. 1/3 twill) was prepared. Yarns of poly (ethylene terephthalate) and poly (trimethylene terephthalate) (“bicomponent polyester yarns”) are available from Invista Sarl, Wilmington, Delaware, USA. It was 34 filament T-400 elasterelle of 150 denier (167 dtex). The polyester bicomponent filaments were 40 wt% poly (ethylene terephthalate) and 60 wt% poly (trimethylene terephthalate) with a crimp shrinkage value of 47% after heat curing. Prior to beaming, the bicomponent fiber yarn used for the warp was 300 yards in poly (vinyl alcohol) size using a Suziki single-ended sizing machine with the temperature in the sizing bath set to 107 ° F. (42 ° C.). Sized per minute (274 m / min). The sized yarn was dried at 190 ° F. (88 ° C.) for about 5 minutes. The weft yarn was a ring-spun cotton yarn with 30 cotton yarn counts. In use poly (ethylene terephthalate) yarn (“one component polyester yarn”) was a woven and entangled 150 denier (167 dtex) 50 filament yarn manufactured by Unifi, Inc.

Each greige fabric is finished by passing it with hot water three times at 160 ° F, 180 ° F and 202 ° F (71 ° C, 82 ° C and 94 ° C, respectively) under low tension; This was followed by 6% by weight of Synthazyme® (starch-hydrolase from Dooley Chemicals LLC), 1% by weight of rubbits at 160 ° F (71 ° C) for 30 minutes. (Lubit®) 64 (non-ionic lubricant from Sybron, Inc.) and 0.5% by weight of Merpol® LFH (surfactant, E.I.Duponde) After de-sizing / pre-scouring with EI du Pont de Nemours and Company, 0.5% by weight of trisodium phosphate was added. The fabric was then refined with 1% by weight of Rubit® 64 and 1% by weight of Merpol® LFH at 110 ° F. (43 ° C.) for 5 minutes, and a yellow disperse dye (also called cotton yarn) Yellow reactive dye), if present, was jet-dyed at 230 ° F. (110 ° C.) for 30 minutes at pH 5.2 and then thermally cured on the tenter frame for 40 seconds at 340 ° F. (171 ° C.) with downfeed in oblique direction. . (The weight percentage of the finish component is based on the weight of the fabric.)

In the Examples, the percent possible elongation of the fabric was measured as follows. Three 60 x 6.5 cm sample specimens were cut from each fabric. The long dimension corresponded to the inclination direction. Each specimen was unwound equally on each side until it was 5 cm wide. One end of the fabric was folded to form a loop and the seam was sewn across the width to secure the loop. The first line was drawn at 6.5 cm from the unlooped end of the fabric and the second line was drawn 50 cm away from the first line (“GL”). Samples were conditioned for at least 16 hours at 20 +/- 2 ° C and 65 +/- 2% relative humidity. The sample was then clamped in the first line and suspended vertically. Thirty Newton weights were suspended from the loop, the samples were allowed to stretch by weight for three seconds, and then the weight was supported to remove the load from the fabric three times in turn. The weight was applied again and the distance between the lines (“ML”) was recorded in the nearest millimeter. Possible elongation (%) was calculated from Equation 1 below and the results from the three specimens were averaged.

Possible Elongation (%) = 100 x (ML-GL) / GL

The recovery rate (%) of the fabric in the examples was calculated as 100% negative fabric growth rate (%) (% fabric growth rate), which was measured as follows. Three new specimens were prepared as described for the possible elongation test, extended to 80% of the previously measured possible elongation, and held for 30 minutes in extended conditions. They were then relaxed without restraint for 60 minutes and the distance between the lines ("L2") was measured again. Fabric growth rate (%) was calculated from Equation 2 below and the results from the three specimens were averaged.

Fabric growth rate (%) = 100 x (L2-GL) / GL

In describing the oblique repeating pattern in the fabric structure of the embodiment, "bi" means two components and "mono" means one component. The repeating patterns used were the most uniform with respect to the weight percentage of bicomponent filament warps present. For example, when the bicomponent filament yarn is present at a concentration of 50% by weight, the repeating pattern is "two / day / two / day" rather than "two / two / day / day", and the two-component filament yarn is 33% by weight in the slope. When present in concentration, the repeating pattern was "2 / day / day / day / day / day" rather than "2 / day / day / day / day / day". Although the most uniform repeating pattern is used to obtain high fabric uniformity in surface appearance, stretch and recoverability, this pattern is not required.

The possible elongation ("elongation") and "recovery" properties of the fabrics produced in the examples are shown in Table 1 (plain fabric) and Table 2 (twill). For clarity, the yarn used in the examples had the same linear density such that the warp end percentage was equal to the warp weight percentage. In the table, "binary weight percent" is based on the total slope weight. "Elongation Per Bicomponent Weight%" and "Recovery Per Bicomponent Weight%" refer to the relative amounts of the bicomponent polyester yarn in the oblique direction only.

The features and advantages of the present invention are more fully shown by the following examples provided for purposes of illustration, which should not be intended to limit the invention in any way.

<Example>

<Example 1>

A plain fabric was produced having an end ratio of 1: 1 (weight ratio 50/50) of warp bicomponent polyester yarn to monocomponent polyester yarn, arranged alternately at 86 ends / inch (34 ends / cm) in a loom state. . The fabric was 80 inches (203 cm) wide on the loom and 78 inches (198 cm) wide from the loom in the dough. After dyeing and finishing, the fabric had a yarn density of 100 ends / inch (39 ends / cm) and 96 picks / inch (38 picks / cm) and weighed 4.86 oz / yd ² (165 g / m ² ), It contained 28% by weight bicomponent polyester yarns, based on the total fabric weight.

<Example 2>

The end ratio of warp bicomponent polyester yarn to monocomponent polyester yarn, arranged in a "two / day / day" repeat pattern at 86 ends / inch (34 ends / cm) in the loom state, is 1: 2 (weight ratio 33 / 67) was made. The fabric was 80 inches (203 cm) wide on the loom and 78 inches (198 cm) wide from the loom in the dough. After dyeing and finishing, the fabric had a yarn density of 90 ends / inch (35 ends / cm) and 97 picks / inch (38 picks / cm) and weighed 4.49 oz / yd ² (152 g / m ² ), It contained 19% by weight bicomponent polyester yarns, based on the total fabric weight.

<Example 3>

The end ratio of warp bicomponent polyester yarn to monocomponent polyester yarn, arranged in a "two / day / day / day" repeat pattern at 86 ends / inch (34 ends / cm) in the loom state, is 1: 3 (weight ratio) 25/75) was produced. The fabric was 80 inches (203 cm) wide on the loom and 78 inches (198 cm) wide from the loom in the dough. After dyeing and finishing, the fabric had a yarn density of 100 ends / inch (39 ends / cm) and 95 picks / inch (37 picks / cm) and weighed 4.55 oz / yd ² (154 g / m ² ), It contained 14% by weight bicomponent polyester yarns, based on the total fabric weight.

<Example 4>

Twill fabric was prepared having an end ratio of 1: 1 (weight ratio 50/50) of warp bicomponent polyester yarn to monocomponent polyester yarn, alternately arranged at 86 ends / inch (34 ends / cm) in a loom state. . The fabric was 80 inches (203 cm) wide on the loom and 75 inches (190 cm) wide in the dough state. After dyeing and finishing, the fabric had a yarn density of 104 ends / inch (41 ends / cm) and 88 picks / inch (35 picks / cm) and weighed 5.47 oz / yd ² (185 g / m ² ), It contained 27% by weight bicomponent polyester yarns based on total fabric weight.

<Example 5>

The end ratio of warp bicomponent polyester yarn to monocomponent polyester yarn, arranged in a "two / day / day" repeat pattern at 86 ends / inch (34 ends / cm) in the loom state, is 1: 2 (weight ratio 33 / 67) twill was prepared. The fabric was 80 inches (203 cm) wide on the loom and 75 inches (190 cm) wide in the dough state. After dyeing and finishing, the fabric had a thread density of 90 ends / inch (35 ends / cm) and 92 picks / inch (36 picks / cm) and weighed 4.92 oz / yd ² (167 g / m ² ), It contained 18% by weight bicomponent polyester yarns based on the total fabric weight.

<Example 6>

The end ratio of warp bicomponent polyester yarn to monocomponent polyester yarn, arranged in a "two / day / day / day" repeat pattern at 86 ends / inch (34 ends / cm) in the loom state, is 1: 3 (weight ratio) 25/75). The fabric was 80 inches (203 cm) wide on the loom and 78 inches (198 cm) wide in dough. After dyeing and finishing, the fabric had a yarn density of 100 ends / inch (39 ends / cm) and 107 picks / inch (42 picks / cm) and weighed 5.67 oz / yd ² (192 g / m ² ), It contained 13% by weight bicomponent polyester yarns, based on the total fabric weight.

<Example 7>

The end ratio of warp bicomponent polyester yarns to sized 30 cotton yarn counting ring-spun cotton yarns alternately arranged at 86 ends / inch (34 ends / cm) in a loom state is 1: 1 (weight ratio 50/50) A plain weave fabric was prepared. The fabric was 80 inches (203 cm) wide on the loom and 78 inches (198 cm) wide in dough. After dyeing and finishing, the gray fabric had a yarn density of 88 ends / inch (35 ends / cm) and 98 picks / inch (39 picks / cm) and weighed 4.78 oz / yd ² (162 g / m ² ). And 28 weight percent bicomponent polyester yarn based on total fabric weight.

<Example 8>

The end ratio of warp bicomponent polyester yarn to monocomponent polyester yarn, arranged in a "two / day / day" repeat pattern at 86 ends / inch (34 ends / cm) in the loom state, is 1: 2 (weight ratio 33 / 67) twill was prepared. The weft was a one-component polyester yarn. The fabric was 80 inches (203 cm) wide on the loom and 75 inches (190 cm) wide in the dough state. After dyeing and finishing, the fabric had a yarn density of 120 ends / inch (47 ends / cm) and 90 picks / inch (35 picks / cm) and weighed 5.85 oz / yd ² (198 g / m ² ), It contained 18% by weight bicomponent polyester yarns based on the total fabric weight.

Example 9

A plain fabric was produced having an end ratio of 1: 1 (weight ratio 50/50) of warp bicomponent polyester yarn to monocomponent polyester yarn, arranged alternately at 86 ends / inch (34 ends / cm) in a loom state. . The weft yarn was wholly bicomponent polyester yarn. The fabric was 80 inches (203 cm) wide on the loom and 76 inches (193 cm) wide in the dough state. After dyeing and finishing, the fabric had a possible elongation of 26% and 25% in the warp and weft directions, respectively, and had a yarn density of 112 ends / inch (44 ends / cm) and 95 picks / inch (37 picks / cm). . The weight of the fabric was 5.8 oz / yd ² (197 g / m ² ) and the fabric contained 72% by weight bicomponent polyester yarn based on the total fabric weight.

<Example 10>

Twill fabric was prepared having an end ratio of 1: 1 (weight ratio 50/50) of warp bicomponent polyester yarn to monocomponent polyester yarn, alternately arranged at 86 ends / inch (34 ends / cm) in a loom state. . Weft yarns were bicomponent polyester yarns woven with pick-and-pick and ring-spun cotton yarn with 30 cotton yarn counts. The fabric was 80 inches (203 cm) wide on the loom and 76 inches (193 cm) wide in the dough state. After dyeing and finishing, the fabric had a possible elongation of 50% and 17% in the warp and weft directions, respectively, and had a yarn density of 115 ends / inch (45 ends / cm) and 90 picks / inch (35 picks / cm). . The fabric weight was 6.44 oz / yd ² (218 g / m ² ) and the fabric contained 50% by weight bicomponent polyester yarn based on the total fabric weight.

<Example 11>

A plain fabric was produced having an end ratio of 1: 1 (weight ratio 50/50) of warp bicomponent polyester yarn to monocomponent polyester yarn, arranged alternately at 86 ends / inch (34 ends / cm) in a loom state. . The weft yarns were bicomponent polyester yarns and monocomponent polyester yarns woven into pick-and-pick. The fabric was 80 inches (203 cm) wide on the loom and 75 inches (190 cm) wide in the dough state. After dyeing and finishing, the fabric had a possible elongation of 31% and 18% in the warp and weft directions, respectively, and had a yarn density of 94 ends / inch (37 ends / cm) and 102 picks / inch (40 picks / cm). . The weight of the fabric was 5.64 oz / yd ² (191 g / m ² ) and the fabric contained 50% by weight bicomponent polyester yarn based on the total fabric weight.

<Example 12 (Comparative Example)>

Plain fabrics were produced in which the warp was entirely bicomponent polyester yarn, i.e., the end ratio was 1: 0. The weft yarn was a 30 cc ring-spun cotton yarn. Ruti air-jet looms were used at 500 picks per minute. On the loom, yarn counts were 70 ends / inch (28 ends / cm) and 50 picks / inch (20 picks / cm). The fabric was 67 inches (170 cm) wide on the loom and 65 inches (165 cm) in dough. After dyeing and finishing, the fabric weighed 3.47 oz / yd ² (118 g / m ² ) and had a yarn density of 74 ends / inch (29 ends / cm) and 72 picks / inch (28 picks / cm). And contained 54% by weight bicomponent polyester yarn based on the total fabric weight.

Example End ratio Slanted Binary Component Weight% Fabric elongation,% Elongation Per Slope Binary Weight% Fabric recovery rate,% Recovery Rate Per Slope Binary Weight% One 1: 1 50 34 0.7 98 2.0 2 1: 2 33 23 0.7 98 3.0 3 1: 3 25 25 1.0 99 4.0 7 1: 1 50 36 0.7 Nm nm 9 1: 1 50 26 0.5 Nm nm 11 1: 1 50 31 0.6 Nm nm 12 (Comparative Example) 1: 0 100 30 0.3 99 1.0

Example End ratio Slanted Binary Component Weight% Fabric elongation,% Elongation Per Slope Binary Weight% Fabric recovery rate,% Recovery Rate Per Slope Binary Weight% 4 1: 1 50 43 0.9 97 1.9 10 1: 1 50 50 1.0 Nm nm 5 1: 2 33 28 0.8 99 3.0 8 1: 2 33 23 0.7 Nm nm 6 1: 3 25 27 1.1 98 3.9

The data in Tables 1 and 2 show that the fabrics of the invention exhibit unexpectedly high stretch and recoverability (relative to their bicomponent filament yarn content). The symbol "nm" indicates that the value is "not measured".

While what has been described herein as being considered preferred embodiments of the invention, those skilled in the art will recognize that changes and modifications may be made without departing from the spirit of the invention and all such changes and modifications fall within the true scope of the invention.

The present invention provides an extensible woven fabric with unexpectedly high stretch and recoverability despite the inclusion of certain polyester bicomponent yarns in relatively low concentrations.

Claims (16)

Including a plurality of wefts and a plurality of warp yarns, A woven fabric selected from the group consisting of plain weave, twill or runner weave, Wherein about 15 to about 55 weight percent of the slope comprises a polyester bicomponent continuous filament comprising poly (ethylene terephthalate) and poly (trimethylene terephthalate) and having a crimp shrinkage value of about 20% to about 80% after thermal curing , Fabrics wherein polyester bicomponent continuous filaments are present in both warp and weft yarns. Including a plurality of wefts and a plurality of warp yarns, A woven fabric selected from the group consisting of plain weave, twill or runner weave,  Wherein about 5 to about 60 weight percent of the fabric weight comprises poly (ethylene terephthalate) and poly (trimethylene terephthalate) and has a polyester bicomponent continuous filament having a crimp shrinkage value of about 20% to about 80% after thermal curing Fabric comprising a. The fabric of claim 2 comprising about 20 to about 40 weight percent polyester bicomponent continuous filaments of the fabric weight. 3. The fabric of claim 2 wherein both the weft and the warp yarns comprise a polyester bicomponent continuous filament. The fabric of claim 2 wherein about 15 to about 55 weight percent of the warp yarns are polyester bicomponent continuous filaments. The fabric of claim 2 wherein about 22 to about 33 weight percent of the warp yarns are polyester bicomponent continuous filaments. The fabric of claim 2 comprising from about 13 wt% to about 19 wt% polyester bicomponent yarns, based on the total fabric weight. A woven fabric comprising a plurality of wefts and a plurality of warp yarns, Wherein said warp and optionally said weft yarn comprises from about 15 to about 55 weight percent of a polyester bicomponent continuous filament in the form of a corespun multicomponent yarn comprising poly (ethylene terephthalate) and poly (trimethylene terephthalate). 9. The fabric of claim 8 wherein the crimp shrinkage value after thermal curing of said polyester continuous filaments is from about 20% to about 80%. The fabric of claim 8, wherein both the warp and the weft yarns comprise bicomponent polyester continuous filaments. A woven fabric comprising a plurality of weft yarns and a plurality of warp yarns, wherein the warp yarns and optionally the weft yarns are in the form of a corespun multicomponent yarn comprising poly (ethylene terephthalate) and poly (trimethylene terephthalate) An article comprising a garment comprising about 15 to about 55 weight percent polyester continuous filaments. The garment of claim 11 comprising denim jeans. A woven fabric comprising a plurality of weft yarns and a plurality of warp yarns, wherein the warp yarns and optionally the weft yarns comprise at least one elastomeric filament and at least one polyester bicomponent continuous filament, wherein the polyester bicomponent continuous filaments are independently The warp and optionally the weft yarn present in an amount from about 1% to about 55% by weight and comprising poly (ethylene terephthalate) and poly (trimethylene terephthalate). The fabric of claim 13, wherein both the warp and the weft yarn comprise from about 1% to about 55% by weight polyester bicomponent continuous filaments. The fabric of claim 13, wherein the warp and weft yarns comprise about 5 wt% to about 20 wt% polyester bicomponent continuous filaments. The fabric of claim 13, wherein both the warp and the weft yarns comprise one or more elastomeric filaments.