CN102534928B - Elastic fabric and production method thereof - Google Patents

Elastic fabric and production method thereof Download PDF

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Publication number
CN102534928B
CN102534928B CN201010620581.0A CN201010620581A CN102534928B CN 102534928 B CN102534928 B CN 102534928B CN 201010620581 A CN201010620581 A CN 201010620581A CN 102534928 B CN102534928 B CN 102534928B
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elastic
yarn
pbt
false twisted
elastic fabric
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CN102534928A (en
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徐建锋
蔡东照
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Dongli wine (Nantong) Co., Ltd. Yi dyeing
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Toray Fibers and Textiles Research Laboratories China Co Ltd
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Abstract

The invention discloses an elastic fabric and a production method thereof. At least more than 30% of warps and wefts in the elastic fabric are bi-component false-twist yarns containing polybutylene terephthalate/polyethylene terephthalate; and elastic elongation of the elastic fabric is over 8% and elastic recovery of the elastic fabric is over 85% in the direction of the bi-component elastic false-twist yarns containing the polybutylene terephthalate/polyethylene terephthalate. According to the production method disclosed by the invention, the elastic fabric is produced by subjecting a prepared gray fabric to aftertreatment including continuous base reduction processing, resin finishing and the like; and the obtained fabric has the advantages of plump hand feeling and low cost.

Description

A kind of elastic fabric and production method thereof
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of textiles, be specifically related to a kind of polybutylene terephthalate (PBT)/polyethylene terephthalate bicomponent elastic fabric and production method thereof.
Background technology
Bi-component yarn is mainly divided into two types in the market: the complex yarn of polytrimethylene terephthalate/polyethylene terephthalate (complex yarn of (PPT/PET) and polyethylene terephthalate 9PET) two kinds of different viscosities, its form is drafted fibre, fabric feeling is plentiful not, aurora are stronger, and the two-component composite yarn line of PET two kinds of viscosity compounds, have to pass through high twist yarn, just have certain elasticity, which increase cost.
A kind of stretch woven fabrics containing polyester bicomponent filaments is disclosed in Chinese patent CN200710126660.4, the dual component composition used is polytrimethylene terephthalate and polyethylene terephthalate, the price of its Raw polytrimethylene terephthalate section costly, much larger than the price of polybutylene terephthalate (PBT) section, fabric feeling is plentiful not, aurora are stronger, and the more single needs that fully can not meet client of fabric variety.
Summary of the invention
The object of the present invention is to provide polybutylene terephthalate (PBT)/polyethylene terephthalate (hereinafter referred to as PBT/PET) bicomponent elastic fabric and the production method thereof of a kind of low cost, good hand feeling.
Technical solution of the present invention is: more than at least 30% yarn through weft yarn forming elastic fabric of the present invention is PBT/PET bicomponent elastic false twisted yarn, the weft yarn more than warp thread or at least 30% namely more than at least 30% or more than at least 30% be PBT/PET bicomponent elastic false twisted yarn through weft yarn total amount, and the elastic extension of this elastic fabric is more than 8%, elastic recovery rate is more than 85%.
In order to obtain better feel and the formation avoiding difference in shrinkage, with PBT/PET bicomponent elastic false twisted yarn with the use of yarn kind, most preferably high shrinkage in boilding water (more than 10%) and the long filament of ultra-fine (filament number is less than or equal to 0.8D) or short fiber.
The institutional framework of fabric can adopt three foundation weave, three former alternative construction or backed weaves, preferred backed weave.When selecting backed weave, make PBT/PET bicomponent elastic yarn be in same surface or same the inside as far as possible, with prevent with other yarns with the use of time, due to the problem that shrinks into ridges that difference in shrinkage causes.
PBT/PET bicomponent elastic false twisted yarn preferentially selects non-twist use.When fabric hook silk is bad or need more well-pressed feel, can suitably add certain twist, but the twist may not exceed 800T/M, otherwise by influence elastane performance.
The fiber number of PBT/PET bicomponent elastic false twisted yarn is 30 ~ 400 DENIER, and filament number is 0.5 ~ 7 DENIER.Filament number is 0.5 ~ 4 DENIER preferably.
The production method of elastic fabric of the present invention, yarn in weft yarn more than at least 30% adopts the PBT/PET bicomponent elastic false twisted yarn that crimp recovery is 30% ~ 55%, boiling water shrinkage is 1.0% ~ 10%, forming grey cloth by weaving engineering, then obtaining product through Final finishing process engineering.
Weaving process comprises twisted filament, warping, starching, weaves, and wherein twisted filament engineering is optional engineering.In order to obtain excellent elastic performance, the coverage coefficient of grey cloth is particularly important, and organizing of the actual tightness of certain grey cloth and fabric is closely related.
Be 700 ~ 2000 containing the grey cloth coverage coefficient on the warp thread of PBT/PET bicomponent elastic false twisted yarn or the vertical direction of weft yarn, namely if containing PBT/PET bicomponent elastic false twisted yarn in warp thread, so the grey cloth coverage coefficient of broadwise is 700 ~ 2000; If containing PBT/PET bicomponent elastic false twisted yarn in weft yarn, so the grey cloth coverage coefficient of warp-wise is 700 ~ 2000.
When institutional framework is plain weave, the grey cloth coverage coefficient in the vertical direction of weft yarn containing PBT/PET bicomponent elastic false twisted yarn is 700 ~ 1000;
When institutional framework be non-double or non-plain weave or non-double-layered structure time, containing the grey cloth coverage coefficient of PBT/PET bicomponent elastic false twisted yarn in the vertical direction in the direction of weft yarn be: plain weave coverage coefficient * plain weave tightness/other tissue tissue tightnesses, but peak can not more than 2000;
When institutional framework be double or double-layered structure time, to use the setup action reference tissue in that face of PBT/PET bicomponent elastic false twisted yarn to calculate grey cloth coverage coefficient, computational methods are with above two kinds of methods.
The computing formula of coverage coefficient is as follows:
The DENIER of the coverage coefficient=warp thread (or weft yarn) of warp-wise (or broadwise) 1/2* the density of warp thread (or weft yarn), density unit: root/2.54cm.
Process engineering comprises refining, middle sizing, continuous alkali reducing process, dyeing, RESIN FINISH, goods sizing, and continuous alkali reducing is preferred engineering, can require to select according to the feel of fabric; Wherein the condition of continuous alkali reducing process is: concentration of caustic soda is 5% ~ 20%, the time of staying: 6 ~ 10 minutes, speed: 30 ~ 60 ms/min, alkali mass loss rate: 5% ~ 30%; RESIN FINISH is also preferred engineering, mainly according to feel require and client requirement and determine, it mainly contains: antistatic resin arrange, refuse water-resin arrange or moisture-absorption resin arrangement.
Elastic fabric of the present invention is ensureing that elastic extension is more than 8%, on the basis of elastic recovery rate more than 85%, due to adopted compound material, the price of polybutylene terephthalate (PBT) section will much smaller than the price of polytrimethylene terephthalate section, there is obvious price advantage, so gained fabric achieves cost degradation, and good hand feeling.
Accompanying drawing explanation
Fig. 1 is the organization chart of embodiment 3.
Detailed description of the invention
In the present invention, method of testing is as follows:
(1) the boiling water shrinkage method of testing in boiling water shrinkage GB/T 6505-2008 chemical fiber long filament heat shrinkage test method.
(2) elastic extension JIS L1096B method
(3) elastic recovery rate JIS L 1096B-1 method.
(4) method of testing of crimp recovery is as follows:
A. yarn is batched 10 circles with the load of 0.1g/d on thread yarn length meter, three samples got by the length 1m. often enclosed this yarn every. then by sample damping 24h. in normal conditions
B., after damping 24h, sample is processed 20min in 90 DEG C, then by sample airing in normal conditions.
C. by the sample after airing, hang and test in the sink, other one end of sample hangs up just loading and determines loading, place after 2 minutes, read the length (L) (mm unit) of sample with scale, then take off and determine loading, keep hanging the state of just loading, place 2 minutes, read the length (L1) (mm unit) of sample with scale.
Crimp recovery is obtained with formula below
Crimp recovery=(L-L1)/L*100
Above first loading and the computational methods of determining loading
First loading 0.002g/d × D × 20
Determine loading 0.1g/d × D × 20
Embodiment 1
The PBT/PET bicomponent elastic false twisted yarn of 50D/24 is all adopted in weft yarn, tissue adopts plain weave, weaving engineering through warping, starching axle, weave etc. and form grey cloth, then the grey cloth made being obtained product through including the operation such as refining, middle sizing, dyeing, RESIN FINISH, goods sizing; What RESIN FINISH adopted is that moisture-absorption resin arranges.Because through broadwise all containing PBT/PET bicomponent elastic false twisted yarn, the grey cloth coverage coefficient of warp-wise is 750, the coverage coefficient of broadwise is 720;
Wherein the crimp recovery of PBT/PET bicomponent elastic false twisted yarn is 50%, boiling water shrinkage is 4%, filament number is 2.08D, the added twist is 0T/M, mass ratio shared in fabric is 100%;
Gained elastic fabric warp-wise: elastic extension: 15%, elastic recovery rate: 89%;
Broadwise: elastic extension: 20%, elastic recovery rate: 92%.
Embodiment 2
Warp thread is 50D/96PET-DTY, weft yarn: 75D/24PBT/PET bicomponent elastic false twisted yarn, fabric tissue adopts 3/3 twill, weave engineering through warping, starching axle, weave etc. and form grey cloth, then by the grey cloth made through including the operation such as refining, middle sizing, continuous alkali reducing, dyeing, RESIN FINISH, goods sizing formation product.The condition of continuous alkali reducing process is: concentration of caustic soda is 6%, the time of staying: 6 minutes, speed: 40 ms/min, alkali mass loss rate: 6.0%; What RESIN FINISH adopted is that antistatic resin arranges.Because broadwise contains PBT/PET bicomponent elastic false twisted yarn, the grey cloth coverage coefficient of the vertical direction warp-wise of its correspondence is 1200;
Wherein the crimp recovery of PBT/PET bicomponent elastic false twisted yarn is 54%, boiling water shrinkage is 3%, filament number is 3.125D, the added twist is 450T/M, mass ratio shared in fabric is 40%;
Gained elastic fabric broadwise elastic extension is 22%; Elastic recovery rate is 94%.
Embodiment 3
Warp thread adopts 75D/72PET-DTY, weft yarn: table latitude: 75D/36PBT/PET bicomponent elastic false twisted yarn, back weft: 150D/288DTY, the ratio of table latitude and back weft is: 3: 1, tissue adopts filling-backed weave, table organization is 2/1 twill (accompanying drawing 1), weave engineering through warping, starching axle, weave etc. and form grey cloth, then the grey cloth made is obtained product through including the operation such as refining, middle sizing, dyeing, RESIN FINISH, goods sizing, what RESIN FINISH adopted is refuse water-resin to arrange.
Wherein the crimp recovery of PBT/PET bicomponent elastic false twisted yarn is 45%, boiling water shrinkage is 7%, filament number is 3.125D, the added twist is 0T/M, mass ratio shared in fabric is 31%; Back weft 150D/288DTY is high shrinkage in boilding water and ultra-fine polyester filament, and its boiling water shrinkage is 12%, and filament number is: 0.52D.
Because broadwise contains PBT/PET bicomponent elastic false twisted yarn, the grey cloth coverage coefficient of the vertical direction warp-wise of its correspondence is 1150.
The broadwise elastic extension of gained elastic fabric is 8%; Elastic recovery rate is 96%.

Claims (7)

1. an elastic fabric, is characterized in that: polybutylene terephthalate (PBT)/polyethylene terephthalate bicomponent elastic false twisted yarn that the yarn in weft yarn more than at least 30% forming this elastic fabric is crimp recovery is 30% ~ 55%, boiling water shrinkage is 1.0% ~ 10%; And with the yarn that described bicomponent elastic false twisted yarn interweaves be boiling water shrinkage more than 10%, filament number is less than or equal to long filament or the short fiber of 0.8D; This elastic fabric containing the elastic extension in polybutylene terephthalate (PBT)/polyethylene terephthalate bicomponent elastic false twisted yarn direction more than 8%, elastic recovery rate is more than 85%.
2. elastic fabric according to claim 1, is characterized in that: this elastic fabric adopts three foundation weave, three former alternative construction or backed weaves.
3. elastic fabric according to claim 1 and 2, is characterized in that: the twist of described polybutylene terephthalate (PBT)/polyethylene terephthalate bicomponent elastic false twisted yarn is 0 ~ 800T/M.
4. elastic fabric according to claim 1 and 2, is characterized in that: the fiber number of described polybutylene terephthalate (PBT)/polyethylene terephthalate bicomponent elastic false twisted yarn is 30 ~ 400 DENIER, and filament number is 0.5 ~ 7 DENIER.
5. the production method of an elastic fabric as claimed in claim 1, it is characterized in that: yarn in weft yarn more than at least 30% adopts polybutylene terephthalate (PBT)/polyethylene terephthalate bicomponent elastic false twisted yarn that crimp recovery is 30% ~ 55%, boiling water shrinkage is 1.0% ~ 10%, and with the yarn that described bicomponent elastic false twisted yarn interweaves be boiling water shrinkage more than 10%, filament number is less than or equal to long filament or the short fiber of 0.8D; Be made into grey cloth, then through the obtained product of Final finishing processing; Described Final finishing adds man-hour, continuous alkali reducing condition: concentration of caustic soda is 5% ~ 20%, the time of staying: 6 ~ 10 minutes, speed: 30 ~ 60 ms/min, alkali mass loss rate: 5% ~ 30%.
6. the production method of elastic fabric according to claim 5, is characterized in that: be 700 ~ 2000 containing the grey cloth coverage coefficient in the polybutylene terephthalate (PBT)/warp thread of polyethylene terephthalate bicomponent elastic false twisted yarn or the vertical direction of weft yarn.
7. the production method of elastic fabric according to claim 5, is characterized in that: described Final finishing adds also can carry out antistatic resin arrangement man-hour, refuse water-resin arranges or moisture-absorption resin arrangement.
CN201010620581.0A 2010-12-22 2010-12-22 Elastic fabric and production method thereof Active CN102534928B (en)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN103485021A (en) * 2013-08-21 2014-01-01 昆山铁牛衬衫厂 Waterproof and elastic fabric
CN106521770A (en) * 2015-09-10 2017-03-22 东丽纤维研究所(中国)有限公司 Elastic fabric
CN109385726A (en) * 2017-08-07 2019-02-26 中国石化仪征化纤有限责任公司 A kind of preparation method of the blended short fine elastic fabric of PBT/PET

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Effective date of registration: 20170329

Address after: 226009 Jiangsu province Nantong Ruixing economic and Technological Development Zone, Road No. 301

Patentee after: Dongli wine (Nantong) Co., Ltd. Yi dyeing

Address before: 226009 Nantong Province Economic and Technological Development Zone, the New South Road, No. 58, No.

Patentee before: Toray Fiber Research Institute (China) Co., Ltd.

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