KR20070089736A - Stretchable fabrics comprising elastics incorporated into nyco for use in combat uniforms - Google Patents

Abstract

A stretchable fabric comprising NYCO fabric with about 2 to about 4 wt. % elastic, such as an elastane as LYCRA(R) is disclosed. The stretchable fabric of the invention exhibits about 20 to about 50 % fabric stretch, and is suitable for application in combat uniforms where mobility and comfort are desirable. The stretchable fabric maintains or exceeds substantially all military uniform standard requirements and exhibits characteristics such as breaking strength, tear resistance, air permeability and abrasion resistance similar to that of NYCO fabric. Also disclosed is a garment manufactured from the stretchable fabric, as well as methods for manufacturing, dying and finishing the stretchable fabric.

Description

Stretch fabrics containing elastomers incorporated into nicotine for use in combat clothing {STRETCHABLE FABRICS COMPRISING ELASTICS INCORPORATED INTO NYCO FOR USE IN COMBAT UNIFORMS}

The present invention relates to composite elastic yarns including nylon and cotton inelastic yarns and elastic yarns, and to fabrics woven from nonelastic yarns including nylon and cotton. The elastic yarn may comprise spandex (or elastane), more generally polyurea-urethane polymer. The LYCRA ^(R) brand (from INVISTA ^(R) Sarl) of spandex is such a company. The other elastic yarn may comprise a polyester polymer in the form of a bicomponent filament. The fabrics of the present invention are suitable for use in the manufacture of garments used in combat as well as plain clothing. Fabrics comprising from about 2% to about 4% by weight elastomers woven with 50% nylon / 50% cotton yarn have been demonstrated to provide about 20 to about 50% fabric stretch. Fabric quality, such as breaking strength, tear strength, air permeability and abrasion resistance, is maintained or improved over known nylon / cotton fabrics, which makes the fabric of the present invention desirable for applications such as military and other plain clothes applications. The invention also relates to a method for making such fabrics and to garments made from stretch fabrics.

1. Field of Invention

Due to the variety of activities the wearer engages in and the environment in which the wearer is exposed, the combat suit has special design and functional needs. Combat clothing should be designed to provide the wearer with a wide range of movements to allow the wearer to perform a variety of activities. In addition, fabrics used in combat suits must provide wearer protection against cold, heat, and chemical exposure, and must exhibit good permeability, tear and wear resistance as well as air permeability for durability. In addition, the fabric must be able to be dyed for camouflage purposes.

Over time, advantageous fabric and uniform designs have been developed for use as combat clothing. Particularly useful fabrics widely used are Nico (NYCO), i.e. 50% nylon (nylon 6,6) and 50% by weight produced by spinning nylon staple fibers together with cotton in such a way that the modulus of nylon matches the modulus of cotton. Cotton.

Due to the quality of the previously known fabrics used in combat clothing, uniforms should typically be designed to be loose and loose to the wearer. However, such a loose and loose design requires more fabrics than the required ones, which can have undesirable side effects such as an increase in the overall garment weight. In addition, many of the combat wearers believe that the previously known uniform designs and fabrics have too many fabrics that cannot be pushed into boots, but that they do not have enough fabrics to easily bend other body parts such as knees and back and elbows. Indicated. In addition, uniform designs using Velcro ^(R) to secure the sleeve to the seat have been found to be limited when the wearer reaches out to an object.

Research by Kirk and Ibrahim, Fundamental Relationship of Fabric Extensibility to Anthropometric Requirements and Garment Performance, Textile Research Journal, January 1966, 36 (1) (the disclosure of which is incorporated by reference) By studying the skin stretch at regular intervals, the site of deformation in the knee, hip, back and elbow was measured. They determined that local skin stretch could vary from 15% to 50% for these body parts.

Based on the extent of skin stretch, the level of fabric stretch needed to accommodate skin stretch can be determined. Clothing design parameters influence this decision. For example, conforming to body clothing requires a higher level of fabric elasticity than clothing that fits more loosely. Factors that should be considered include fabric friction, clothing and body contact points, fabric stiffness and fabric elasticity.

2. Description of related technology

Nico fabric was made from staple cotton yarn blended with specially treated nylon staple fibers. Nico Staples Inc. and methods for making and using the same are described in US Pat. Nos. 3,044,250, 3,188,790, 3,321,448 and 3,459,845 (Hebeler); And 5,011,645 to Thampson, Jr., the disclosure of which is incorporated by reference. Specially treated nylon fibers have been found to have the same or superior load-bearing capacity comparable to the ability of natural fibers in the break-elongation characteristics of the natural fibers to be blended with them, which is the basis of cotton and high load-bearing nylon staples. Improve formulation strength. This again provides a substantial improvement in abrasion resistance and peel resistance compared to the nylon / cotton blends previously known.

Today, nicotine fabric is still used for military uniforms. See, for example, US Pat. No. 6,805,957 (Santos et al.) And US Patent Application Publication No. US2004 / 0209051 A1 (Santos et al.) (Also referred to herein as "Santos") (these specifications are incorporated by reference). Discloses techniques for printing camouflage patterns on fabrics as well as camouflage pattern systems for military and plain clothing applications. Preferred fabrics described in Santos comprise nico fabrics of approximately about 50 ± 5% polyamide (having denier per filament of nylon 6,6, 1.6-1.8 made as type 20 by Invista Sarl), with the remaining percentage Is the combed side. It is also disclosed that other cellulosic fibers such as Lyocell can be used in place of cotton. Although it is disclosed that other weaves may be used, preferred weaves are left-handed twill or twill derivatives. The preferred weight of the preferred fabrics is 6.0 to 6.6 oz / yd ² (203 g / m ² to 224 g / m ² ).

Summary of the Invention

The present invention relates to novel stretch fabrics for use in the manufacture of combat suits and other applications where mobility, tear resistance, air permeability and abrasion resistance are desired.

An object of the present invention is a nicotine fabric comprising from about 2% to about 4% by weight elastomer, such as elastane (otherwise called spandex) yarns, and the remainder of the fabric comprises about 50% nylon and 50% cotton yarn. , To provide stretch fabrics. The resulting fabric exhibits about 20% to 50% fabric stretch.

It is also an object of the present invention a nicotine fabric comprising from about 2% to about 4% by weight elastomer, such as elastane, the remainder of the fabric being from about 50% by weight nylon and 50% by weight cotton yarn, from about 20% to About 160 lbs. In warp direction with 50% fabric stretch. About 60 lbs. In excess breaking strength and in the fill direction. It is to provide a stretch fabric that exhibits greater breaking strength.

 A further object of the present invention is a nicotine fabric comprising from about 2% to about 4% by weight elastomer, such as elastane, the remainder of the fabric being from about 50% by weight nylon and 50% by weight cotton yarn, from about 20% to 50% fabric stretch, about 160 lbs in warp direction. About 60 lbs in excess and line direction. Breaking strength in excess of about 13 lbs in the warp direction. It is to provide a stretch fabric which exhibits a tear strength of 8 lbs. In excess and string direction.

A further object of the present invention is a nicotine fabric comprising from about 2% to about 4% by weight elastomer, such as elastane, the remainder of the fabric being from about 50% by weight nylon and 50% by weight cotton yarn, from about 20% to 50% fabric stretch, about 160 lbs in warp direction. About 60 lbs in excess and line direction. Breaking strength in excess of about 13 lbs in the warp direction. Tear strength of 8 lbs. In excess and string direction, approximately 25 ft. ³ / min / ft. ^It is to provide a stretch fabric having an air permeability of less than ^two .

A further object of the present invention is a nicotine fabric comprising from about 2% to about 4% by weight elastomer, such as elastane, the remainder of the fabric being from about 50% by weight nylon and 50% by weight cotton yarn, from about 20% to 50% fabric stretch, about 160 lbs in warp direction. About 60 lbs in excess and line direction. Breaking strength in excess of about 13 lbs in the warp direction. A tear strength of 8 lbs. In excess and string direction, and approximately 25 ft. ³ / min / ft. ^It is to provide a stretch fabric that exhibits less than two cycles of wear resistance to breakage as measured by air permeability of less than ² and ASTM D3884-01 (name: wear resistance using a rotating platform double header wear device).

A further object of the present invention is a Nico ^(R) fabric comprising from about 2% to about 4% by weight elastomer, such as elastane, and the remainder of the fabric comprising about 50% by weight nylon and 50% by weight cotton yarn, 20% to 50% fabric stretch, about 160 lbs in warp direction. About 60 lbs in excess and line direction. Breaking strength in excess of about 13 lbs in the warp direction. A tear strength of 8 lbs. In excess and string direction, and approximately 25 ft. ³ / min / ft. Air permeability of less than ² , ASTM D3884-01 (name: wear resistance with rotating platform double header wear devices), indicating at least 600 cycles of wear resistance to breakage, and fabric growth of less than about 7.5%, as measured by To provide a stretch fabric.

Another object of the present invention is a Nico ^(R) fabric comprising from about 2% to about 4% by weight elastomer, such as elastane, and the remainder of the fabric comprising about 50% by weight nylon and 50% by weight cotton yarn, 20% to 50% fabric stretch, about 160 lbs in warp direction. About 60 lbs in excess and line direction. Breaking strength in excess of about 13 lbs in the warp direction. A tear strength of 8 lbs. In excess and string direction, and approximately 25 ft. ³ / min / ft. Elasticity showing less than ² air permeability, at least 600 cycles of wear resistance to failure as measured by ASTM D3884-01 (name: wear resistance with rotating platform double header wear devices), and fabric growth of less than about 7.5% It is to provide a garment made from the fabric.

Another object of the present invention is a Nico ^(R) fabric comprising from about 2% to about 4% by weight elastomer, such as elastane, and the remainder of the fabric comprising about 50% by weight nylon and 50% by weight cotton yarn, 20% to 50% fabric stretch, about 160 lbs in warp direction. About 60 lbs in excess and line direction. Breaking strength in excess of about 13 lbs in the warp direction. A tear strength of 8 lbs. In excess and string direction, and approximately 25 ft. ³ / min / ft. Air permeability of less than ² , at least 600 cycles of wear resistance to failure as measured by ASTM D3884-01 (name: wear resistance with rotating platform double header wear devices), and fabric growth of less than about 7.5%, and about Provided are garments made from stretch fabrics that exhibit fabric shrinkage (or dimensional stability) of less than 3.5%.

An object of the present invention is a nicotine fabric comprising from about 2% to about 4% by weight elastomer, such as elastane yarn, the remainder of the fabric being about 50% nylon and 50% cotton yarn, about 20% to 50% Fabric stretch, about 160 lbs in warp direction. About 60 lbs in excess and line direction. Breaking strength in excess of about 13 lbs in the warp direction. A tear strength of 8 lbs. In excess and string direction, and approximately 25 ft. ³ / min / ft. Air permeability of less than ² , at least 600 cycles of wear resistance to failure as measured by ASTM D3884-01 (name: wear resistance with rotating platform double header wear devices), and fabric growth of less than about 7.5%, and about It is to provide a method of making a stretch fabric that exhibits a fabric shrinkage (or dimensional stability) of less than 3.5%.

Another object of the present invention is to provide a stretch fabric that substantially meets military standards for grab strength, tear resistance, air permeability and fabric weight and substantially provides the same durability of nicotine fabrics commonly used in combat clothing. To provide.

Another object of the present invention is to substantially meet the military standards for grab strength, tear resistance, air permeability and fabric weight and to substantially provide the same durability of nicotine fabrics commonly used in combat clothing, and to provide less fabric per garment. There is a need to provide a stretch fabric, which makes the garment less bulky and lighter than comparable garments made of nicotine fabric with no elastomer incorporated.

It is a further object of the present invention to provide a stretch fabric which increases mobility, comfort and fit in combat suits as compared to conventional uniforms made of nicotine fabrics.

These and other features of the present invention can be achieved by novel stretch fabrics for use in the manufacture of combat suits and other applications where mobility, tear resistance, air permeability and abrasion resistance are desired. Fabrics of the present invention comprise about 6% by weight of nylon 6,6 and nicotine of cotton yarn in about the same weight ratio, including from about 2% to about 4% by weight of incorporated elastomer. Suitable elastomers include polyurea-urethane polymers such as elastane including lycra ^(R) . Polyester polymers may also be used as elastomers. Elastomers are typically incorporated in the direction of the weft or weft of the fabric. The resulting fabrics have been demonstrated to have about 20% to 50% fabric stretch while maintaining substantially all of the tear resistance, air permeability and abrasion resistance of known nicotine fabrics with no elastomer incorporated.

Brief description of the drawings

These and other features of the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to the following drawings:

1 is a graph showing typical stress-strain curves for stretch fabrics based on loads on the fabrics;

2 is a schematic diagram showing the relationship between the degree of work stretch of a garment and the available elasticity when worn on a human body.

Detailed Description of the Preferred Embodiments

The novel stretch fabrics of the present invention are suitable for use in the production of combat suits and other applications where mobility, tear resistance, air permeability and abrasion resistance are desired. Generally, nicotine fabrics are used in military uniforms. Nico fabrics provide good fracture strength, tear strength, air permeability and wear resistance, but they are not stretched and are considered "hard" fabrics (ie, fabrics with stretch in the range of about 5% to about 10%). Thus, garments made from Nico are more bulky and loosely fitted to provide the wearer with the desired mobility in combat clothing. However, this excess volume has been observed to increase the weight of the garment. Excessive fabric is difficult to push into the boots. In addition, insufficient fabric around the knee was observed to cause deformation when bending the knee or back or raising the arm. In addition, the added weight increases fatigue to the wearer.

Especially for applications such as combat clothing where mobility is required during the wearer's body movement, biomechanical principles have been found to reveal the interaction between fabric and garment mobility. As early as 1966, Kirk and Ibrahim measured major deformations of the body, including the knees, hips, back, and elbows. They measured the maximum local skin deformation or contraction in the horizontal and vertical directions at regular intervals that occur during certain body movements. Kirk and Ibrahim, for example, stand knees while sitting or standing and bending deeply; Standing elbows while bending deeply; Standing while sitting or standing while bending the hips; Or local skin stretch from about 15% to about 50% in major body parts, such as while raising the arm straight and raising the arm or while bending the elbow or tying the shoe.

By knowing the extent of skin stretch during specific activities, it is possible to determine (or select) fabric stretch to meet specific requirements. Certain aspects of the type of clothing inform this decision (or choice). For example, clothing intended to be worn closely to the body requires more elasticity than clothing that fits loosely. In addition to the type of fit, other factors should be considered. For example, the ratio of garment size to body size, fabric friction coefficient, number of contact points through which the garment passes, and fabric stiffness affect the desired fabric elasticity. Other factors determined by those skilled in the art may be considered in determining (or selecting) the desired fabric stretch.

A study of preferred fabric elasticity for combat clothing indicates that at levels of fabric elasticity of 20% or more, pressure or deformation rapidly drops at the point of contact of the body, as compared to rigid fabrics having about 5 to about 10% fabric elasticity. Thus, in order to provide good mobility, it is desirable to design the stretch fabric to work in the low stress section of the stress-strain curve for the fabric. A typical stress-strain curve is shown in FIG. 1 showing a comfortable and uncomfortable wearing part. 2 shows the relationship between work extensibility and available stretch of a garment when worn over a human body. Wear extensibility is the change in dimensions that a garment experiences in actual wear. 2 shows activity such as exercise and donning to stretch the garment beyond the normal wear extensibility. Thus, the stress-strain curve of the garment is such that normal wear falls within the pleasant area of the stress-strain curve, while donning falls within the uncomfortable wearing range of the stress-strain curve, and the motion is between the two areas. Indicates that it belongs. For combat apparel applications, garments comprising stretch fabrics with elasticity of about 50% or less provide an adequate degree of available stretch, with the result that substantially all work extensibility is in a flat region in the stress-strain curve, thus It has been found to provide the wearer with a comfortable fit that is less restrictive while moving freely. The fabric of the invention is suitable for application in such garments.

Fabrics of the present invention include nylon and cotton yarn nicotine fabrics comprising from about 2% to about 4% by weight of incorporated elastomers. Suitable nylons are nylon type 6,6 (polyhexamethylene adipamide) made as type 420 by Invista Sarl and have deniers of 1.6 to 2.6 per filament. Nylon 6 (polycaproamide), Nylon 7 (polyethaneamide), Nylon 11 (RILSAN ^(R) ), Nylon 4,6 (Stanyl (STANYL) ^(R) ), Nylon 6,10 (Polyhexa) Methylene sebacamide) and other suitable polyamide polymers, such as nylon 6,12 (polylaurinlactamide), after blending with cotton to form composite yarns with elastomers or elastanes such as lycra ^(R) Can be used. Nylon can be selected for effective yarn strength and ultimately fabric strength.

Suitable elastomers include spandex (or elastane) and more generally include polyurea-urethane polymers. Spandex's Lycra ^(R) brand (Invista ^(R) Sarl) is such a cider. The other elastomer may comprise a polyester polymer in the form of a bicomponent filament. Such polyester polymers include polyethylene terephthalate and polytrimethylene terephthalate. Such polyester polymers comprise the component sites of the bicomponent filaments in a parallel relationship to each bicomponent filament of the yarn. It is contemplated that the bicomponent multifilament yarn elastomer P (known as T400 elastomer P from Invista ^(R) Sarl) is suitable for use in the present invention.

Prior to weaving with Nico yarns, an elastomer is applied with the accompanying (or applied) fibers or yarns to form a composite yarn. The companion fiber may comprise the same yarn as the whole of the fabric, such as nicotine fibers. Suitable composite yarns include core-spun yarns, applicator yarns and twisted yarns. It is known in the art to provide a protective sheath or coating on an elastomer to form a composite yarn for weaving. Application protects the elastomer from abrasion during weaving, stabilizes elastomer recovery during weaving, and provides the fabric with the appearance and feel of a hard yarn, such as Nico. The resultant composite yarn is itself stretchable. Suitable composite yarns include core spun yarns having a sheath-core structure, with elastanes such as Lycra ^(R) applied as a sheath fiber or nylon / cotton blend as yarn. Other types of composite yarns such as single- or air-coated yarns in which the elastomer is applied with a single staple yarn; Double-coated yarns in which the elastomer is applied with two single staple yarns; Twisted yarn with elastic being twisted together with two other staple yarns; Alternatively, Hamel-twisted yarns in which the elastomer is applied with two-ply staple yarns can be used.

The% elastomer in the composite yarn depends on the composite yarn size and elastic denier. For a target stretch level of about 20% to about 50%, a composite yarn comprising 2.5 dpf T420 ^(R) nylon staple fiber and staple cut length (3.81 cm) can be blended with cotton on a carding machine or stretching frame. . The resulting nylon / cotton spun yarn is core-spun and twisted together with 70 denier type 162-C lycra ^(R) to form a composite yarn suitable for use in the present invention. 70 denier type 162-C Lycra ^(R) and with 20s (20 one-sided count) the composite living contains about 6.5% Ella Stan, 70 denier, type 162-C 18s (18 with Lycra ^(R) produced by using the Composite yarns made using single-sided counts comprise about 5.9% elastane. This composite yarn size was chosen to target fabrics weighing about 6.5 to about 7.5 oz / yd ² (220 g / m ² to 254 g / m ² ). Other yarn sizes can also be used, and one skilled in the art can select composite yarn sizes and elastic deniers based on target fabric weight and stretch levels.

Nico Company may include a single 15s yarn or 32s / 2 ply yarn with 2.5dpf nylon blended with carded cotton or 1.7dpf T420 nylon blended with spent cotton. The nicotine composition may range from about 5% cotton / 95% nylon to about 95% cotton / 5% nylon. Appropriate stretch fabric characteristics, gave the woven fabric from Nikko 18s / LYCRA ^(R) The ellagic Stan coating containing Nikko Co. and depleted surface and the combined 1.7dpf T420 nylon, including the core yarn and 32s / 2-ply yarn .

As described above, composite yarns comprising elastic fibers coated with companion yarns are typically woven in the direction of the weft or weft of the fabric, with the result that the total weight percent of the elastomer in the fabric comprises from about 2% to about 4%. The composite yarn may be incorporated in the warp direction of the fabric, but those skilled in the art will be able to ascertain an appropriate direction for incorporation of the composite yarn. Typically, Nico is woven in the warp direction of the fabric. Typical fabrics may include about 75 to about 95 warp end (thread) (or epi) per inch, and about 50 to about 65 weft end (thread) (or ppi) per inch. The fabric structure may be satin or twill weave, for example 2/1 LH twill weave. Other fabric structures, such as ripstops, basket looms or basic looms may be suitable.

A method of making the stretch fabric of the present invention is mentioned below. Final properties of the fabric, such as stretch and stability, can be affected by weaving, dyeing and finishing conditions. It is known that fabrics can be woven on currently available weaving devices, such as the Sulzer Textil ^(R) L5400 airflow weaving machine (available from Sulzer Limited (Swiss Luti)). Typically, nylon nylon / cotton yarn is used as the warp yarn. Fabrics are typically woven into plain weave with variations known in the art, such as satin and twill. In manufacturing warp beams, Nico Staples yarns must be squeezed or applied with a sizing agent to reinforce and lubricate the yarns. Suitable sizing agents include starch, PVA (polyvinyl alcohol) or a mixture of starch and PVA. Composite yarns containing elastan and nicotine are inserted in the direction of the string or weft. The fabric can be woven on looms with or without looms, such as projectile looms, rapier looms, water-jet looms or air-jet looms. Sufficient weft insertion tension should be applied to ensure that the elastic composite yarns extend substantially sufficiently during weaving.

Adjust yarn size selection and fabric structure design to achieve a stable final fabric with target fabric weight and elasticity level. For the stretch fabric of the present invention, the elastic weft (seed) yarn is stretched substantially sufficiently over the loom. These weft yarns will swell in the relaxed state of the final fabric. Typically, the warp density with a lid (end per inch, or epi) on the loom is less than the factor of the desired stretch + yarn weaving winding of the final fabric and the permanent shrinkage of the accompanying fiber, as compared to comparable hard fabric. It has been observed that a margin of at least 3/4 inch on each side of the 2/1 twill fabric can substantially reduce or avoid edge distortion of the fabric during subsequent dyeing and finishing. Suitable fabrics of the present invention comprising 2 × 1 LH twill can be made using yarns having about 75 to about 90 warp ends per inch and yarns having about 50 to about 65 weft ends per inch.

After weaving, the greige fabric should be unwrapped and scrubbed to remove the woven medication and woven oil. If the fabric is to be dyed in a light color, it must be bleached prior to dyeing and finishing as is known in the art. Non-chloride bleaches such as peroxides have typically been found to give good results in the final fabric. The fabric may be treated with sodium hydroxide (NaOH) solutions on the order of about 35 to 38 Twaddell on a chain mercerization machine under tension to swell cotton fibers to provide improved gloss and strength of the fabric. . Avoid excessive tension. Typically, the fabric is stretched to less than about 2 inches in the weft (string) direction or width above the mercerizing machine.

After mercerization, the fabric must be dried and heat cured on the stenter frame about one inch larger than the width of the unstretched fabric. Typically, the fabric is heat cured at about 193 ° C. (380 ° F.) for about 30 seconds. If desired, the amount of stretch in the fabric can be reduced by using thermal curing higher than 193 ° C. (380 ° F.) but not higher than 201 ° C. (395 ° F.), or by drying the fabric for longer than 30 seconds. In addition, the fabric may be stretched to a slightly wider width during drying, but no greater than about 110% of the fabric width, to reduce the stretch in the final fabric. However, as is known to those skilled in the art, the fabric will lose some stretch during the printing process. For example, fabrics printed by screen printing have been found to permanently lose 3 to 5% of their stretch.

Dyeing and finishing methods for the fabrics of the present invention are provided. Battle suits are typically printed in camouflage, such as woodland or desert camouflage. Depending on the desired camouflage pattern, different dyeing techniques may be used, as known in the art, for example, batching processes and continuous ranges. In a batch dyeing process, fabrics are typically made and then dyed in a jig dyeing apparatus. Other refining and dyeing machines may be used, such as jet dyeing machines and Beck (or winches) dyeing machines. After the fabric is treated, scrubbed with detergent, bleached with peroxide and heat cured to remove the sizing agent, the fabric is ready for pattern printing on an inkjet printer. In addition, other means for pattern printing known to those skilled in the art can be used, such as screen printing or heat transfer printing. Optionally, the same nico / elastane fabric can be dyed to a solid color using acid dyes for the nylon component and direct dyes (eg VAT dyes) or reactive dyes for the cotton component. As is known in the art, two-step or one-step joint dyeing processes achieve robust color options.

In a continuous dyeing process, the sizing agent placed on the warp prior to weaving is removed to remove looseness first and then rubbed with detergent to wipe off dirt, stains and oils from the fabric. Fabrics that are dyed or printed in light colors, such as desert camouflage patterns, are bleached with peroxide. Hypochlorite-based bleaching should generally be avoided. If the fabric is dyed or printed in dark colors, the bleaching option may be missing. After scrubbing and pretreatment, the fabric is contacted with a sodium hydroxide (NaOH) solution of Twaddell (liquid hydrometer equal to (5 x Twedell degree +1000) / (1000) of 35 to 38 degrees). Contact with NaOH is performed on a chain mercerizing machine under tension to swell the cotton fibers for better gloss and improved strength. On mercerizing machines, the fabric is stretched to less than 2 inches (5 cm) in the width direction. After mercerization, the fabric is dried and heat cured as mentioned above. In order to print the fabric by camouflage printing, the fabric is dyed prepared in the basic color suitable for camouflage printing in the continuous dyeing range appropriate for the cotton rich fabric. Optionally, the fabric is dyed with acid dyes or VAT dyes in a continuous range according to conventional dyeing procedures. The fabric dyed in the base color is transferred to a screen printing machine for camouflage printing. Other known printing machines such as ink-jet printing machines or heat transfer printing machines can be used.

It has been found that a typical commercial device with some small variations can be used to dye and finish the fabric of the present invention. For example, in order to improve the final stretch in the fabric, it is necessary to adjust and minimize the tension on the fabric, in particular in the weft direction. It was also observed that good results are obtained when avoiding excessive acidic or alkaline conditions. Those skilled in the art will be able to adjust the parameters according to the particular apparatus used to dye and finish the fabric to achieve the desired properties.

The final step is to treat the fabric on a sanforizing machine for preshrinkage, which has been observed to improve dimensional stability in use.

Fabrics obtained in accordance with the present disclosure substantially meet or exceed military regulations, such as those found in Military Specification # MIL-C-440340D, the details of which are incorporated herein by reference. Turned out to be.

In addition, the resulting fabrics have been demonstrated to have about 20% to 50% fabric stretch. When this term is used, fabric elasticity refers to the amount of stretch that occurs when a weight representing a load of 6 N (3.37 lb./in. ² ) is attached to the specimen and the specimen is suspended freely with the weight. Test methods for measuring fabric stretch are described in detail below.

In addition, the measured growth of the resulting fabric is less than about 9%. As used herein, fabric growth refers to the unrecovered stretch of the fabric that occurs during wear. Test methods for measuring fabric growth are described in detail below.

Break strength of the resulting fabric, measured by ASTM D 5034-95 (Reapproved 2001) (heading: Break strength and elongation (grave test) of textile fabrics), the disclosure of which is incorporated herein by reference. About 160 lbs in warp direction. To about 220 lbs. Greater than about 60 to about 120 lbs in the string direction. Excess.

The Elmendorf tear strength of the resulting fabric, measured by ASTM D 1424-96 (heading: tear strength drop pendulum (Elmendrup) apparatus, the disclosure of which is incorporated by reference), is about 13 lbs in the warp direction. . To about 20 lbs. Greater than about 7.5 to about 13 lbs in the string direction. Excess.

The air permeability of the resulting fabric, measured by ASTM D 737-96 (heading: air permeability of a spun fabric), the disclosure of which is incorporated by reference, is about 25 ft. ³ / min / ft. Less than ²

The taper abrasion resistance of the resulting fabric, measured by ASTM D3884-01 (heading: abrasion resistance using a rotating platform double head grinder), the disclosure of which is incorporated by reference, is at least about 600 cycles until failure In some stretch fabrics, it has been found to exceed 2000 cycles before failure.

Fabric shrinkage or dimensional stability measured by the following test method is less than about 3.5%.

The resulting fabrics are useful for making garments where high abrasion resistance and mobility are desired. Suitable military applications include combat suits, chemical defensive coats and other military operations, practical and formal uniforms. Suitable plain clothing applications include coveralls such as law enforcement uniforms, jumpsuits, outer wear vests and bad weather clothing. Such work clothes may be used by repair workers, construction workers or truck drivers. Those skilled in the art will be able to manufacture the garment using standard handling and sewing techniques or by modifying them to obtain the stretch of the fabric.

The following non-limiting examples further illustrate the invention.

Test Methods

ASTM methods described above in detail are used to measure fracture strength, tear resistance, abrasion resistance and air permeability.

Fabric elasticity (or elongation) is measured as follows. The fabric specimen is placed on a static elongation tester, a weight of 6 N (3.37 lb./in. ² ) is attached to the specimen and suspended freely. Fabric elongation is measured by determining the amount of increase over the original length of the specimen as a percentage of the original length of the specimen. To perform the test, three specimens are selected at the location of the fabric at least 10 cm (4 in.) From the width of the edge. Each specimen measures 60 x 6.5 cm (23 x 2.5 in.). The long dimension corresponds to the stretch direction. Loosen each specimen 5 cm (2 in.) Wide and remove approximately the same number of yarns from one side of the specimen. One end of the specimen is wound to form a loop, and the seam is sewn across the width of the specimen. Cut a notch in the loop. Make a mark "A" at a distance of 2.5 cm (6.5 cm) from the unrimmed rim. At a distance of 50 cm (20 in.) From the mark "A", make the mark "B". Samples are conditioned at 65 ° C. ± 2% at 20 ° C. ± 2 ° C. (70 ° F. ± 3 °) for at least 16 hours. Each specimen is placed in the upper clamp of the static test apparatus with the symbol "A" at the clamp rim, and the ends with the rings are freely suspended. Align the zero mark on the ruler with the mark "B". Insert the metal pin through the sample hook and hook the 30N (6.75 lb.) weight over the metal pin through the notches. Each specimen is " exercised " three times by stretching with weights for 3 seconds, then releasing tension by lifting the weights. The weight is then suspended free from the "worked" specimen and the length of the stretched specimen is measured. The elasticity of the fabric is represented by the following equation.

% Fabric Elongation = (ML-GL) / GL × 100

Where ML is the length between marks "A" and "B" when weighed with a 30N weight, and GL is the original length or 50 cm between marks "A" and "B".

Fabric growth is measured as follows. The fabric is first subjected to an elongation test as described above to determine fabric stretch or elongation. The new fabric swatch is then increased to 80% of the measured fabric elongation and left in this state for 30 minutes. The specimen is allowed to relax for 60 minutes, at which point the fabric growth is measured and calculated. To perform this test, the specimen is cut to at least 10 cm (4 in.) From the edge and weighed 55 x 6 cm (22 x 2.5 in.). The long dimension corresponds to the stretch direction of the fabric. Unscrew each specimen 5 cm (2 in.) Wide by removing approximately the same number of yarns on either side. Samples are conditioned at 65 ° C. ± 2% at 20 ° C. ± 2 ° C. (70 ° F. ± 3 °) for at least 16 hours. In practice, make two marks on each specimen 50 cm (20 in.) Apart. 80% of the fabric elongation is calculated according to Equation 2 as follows.

E @ 80% = E% / 100 × 0.80 × L

Where

E% is the fabric elongation measured in the fabric elongation test, and L is the original length or 50 cm (20 in.) Between the two marks. However, if E @ 80% is greater than 35%, fix E @ 80% to 35%. Move the lower clamp to the "0" mark on the static tester and secure the specimen to both clamps. Move the lower clamp down until the needle is aligned with the corresponding scale of E @ 80% (but less than 35% when indicated) as calculated by Equation 2. Secure the clamp in this position. After 30 minutes the lower clamp is released to allow the specimen to hang freely. After 60 minutes, the increase in specimen length is measured and growth is calculated by equation (3).

% Growth = (L2 × 100) / L

L2 is the increase in length between marks on the specimen after relaxation and L is the original length between marks on the specimen (ie 50 cm or 20 inches).

Fabric shrinkage or dimensional stability is measured as follows. Fabric shrinkage is the amount of shrinkage in a fabric with elastomers that have been washed and dried. Make marks on the swatches that are conditioned at a predetermined distance from each other. After washing and drying, the specimen is again conditioned and the distance between the marks is measured again. Dimensional stability is then calculated as a percentage change in the relaxed dimension of the fabric. The fabric is conditioned at 65 ° C. ± 2% at 20 ° C. ± 2 ° (70 ° F. ± 3 °) for at least 16 hours. Two 60 × 60 cm (23.5 × 23.5 in.) Specimens are cut from the fabric and marked in the warp direction. Place the specimen on a smooth surface. To mark the specimen, use a wedge with eight slits marked at the midpoint of the corner and the rim of a 40 × 40 cm square. Measure the distance between the markings in the warp and weft directions. The specimens are washed in a gentle wash cycle without pre-washing and spun at a water temperature of about 60 ° C. (140 ° F.) with sufficient IEC reference detergent at a level of 1 to 3 g / L depending on the water hardness. The sample is then placed in a tumble dryer. The maximum temperature of the tumble dryer is 70 ° C. (158 ° F.). The specimen is dried, removed and placed flat and conditioned at 65 ° C. ± 2% at 20 ° C. ± 2 ° (70 ° F ± 3 °) for at least 16 hours. Measure again the distance between the markings in the warp and weft directions. Measure shrinkage according to Equation 4:

C% = (L1-L2) / L1 × 100

Where C = shrinkage after treatment, L1 = original length, and L2 = length after washing, drying and conditioning.

Comparative example  One

Table 1 shows the properties of Nico fabrics taken from the U.S. Army Large Regular Temperate Battle Dress Uniform (BDU). All properties meet or exceed MIL-C-44034D military regulations for combat clothing.

Example  One

Warp yarn stretch fabric with a 28.7% stretch, using the 18s Nikko / 70D- Lycra ^(R) core spun composite yarn of 56ppi as 32s / 2 Nikko yarns and weft yarn of 59epi was prepared as a. The fabric was woven on an airflow loom with a 2 × 1 LH twill weave. After weaving, the dough was removed from the dough, scrubbed to remove the crushed formulation and the woven oil and then bleached with peroxide. After scrubbing and pretreatment, the fabric was contacted with Twedel's sodium hydroxide (NaOH) solution of about 35 degrees. Contact with NaOH was performed on a chain mercerizing machine under tension and the fabric was stretched to 2 inches (5 cm) or less in the width direction. After mercerization, the fabric was dried and heat cured at about 193 ° C. (380 ° F.) for 30 seconds. The fabrics produced were dyed with the appropriate base color for camouflage printing in the continuous dyeing range and screen printed with a desert camouflage pattern. This fabric was further preshrunk. The properties of the stretch fabric of Example 1 are shown in Table 1. Example 1 Fabrics meet or exceed all military regulations as set forth in MIL-C-44034D.

Example  2

A stretch fabric having a stretchability 36.8% using 20s Nikko / 70D- Lycra ^(R) core spun composite yarn of 50ppi as 15s Nikko yarns and weft yarns used as the warp yarn of 56epi was prepared. The fabric was woven, dyed, finished, screen printed in a desert camouflage pattern and preshrunk as described in Example 1. The properties of the stretch fabric of Example 2 are shown in Table 1. Example 2 Fabrics meet or exceed all military regulations set forth in MIL-C-44034D, with the exception of fabric weight and breaking strength.

Example  3

A stretch fabric with a 37.4% stretch, using the 20s Nikko / 70D- Lycra ^(R) core spun composite yarn of 50ppi as 15s Nikko yarns and weft yarns used as the warp yarn of 56epi was prepared. The fabric was woven, dyed, finished and preshrunk as described in Example 1, except that the fabric was not bleached and screen printed in a woodland camouflage pattern. The properties of the stretch fabric of Example 3 are shown in Table 1. Example 3 Fabrics meet or exceed all military regulations set forth in MIL-C-44034D, with the exception of fabric ppi and breaking strength.

Example  4

A stretch fabric with a 38.2% stretch, using the 21s Nikko / 70D- Lycra ^(R) core spun composite yarn of 54ppi as 15s Nikko yarns and weft yarns used as the warp yarn of 54epi was prepared. The fabric was woven, dyed, finished, screen printed in a desert camouflage pattern and preshrunk as described in Example 1. The properties of the stretch fabric of Example 4 are shown in Table 1. Example 4 Fabrics meet or exceed all military regulations set forth in MIL-C-44034D, with the exception of fabric weight and breaking strength.

Example  5

A stretch fabric with a 37.0% stretch, using the 21s Nikko / 70D- Lycra ^(R) core spun composite yarn of 54ppi as 15s Nikko yarns and weft yarns used as the warp yarn of 54epi was prepared. The fabric was woven, dyed, finished and preshrunk as described in Example 1, except that the fabric was not bleached and screen printed in a woodland camouflage pattern. The properties of the stretch fabric of Example 5 are shown in Table 1. Example 5 The fabric meets or exceeds all military regulations set forth in MIL-C-44034D, except for breaking strength.

Example  6

A stretch fabric with 44.0% stretch was prepared using 54 ppi 15s Niko and 50 ppi 22s Niko / 70D-Lycra ^(R) core spun composite yarns as warp yarns. The fabric was woven, dyed, finished, screen printed in a desert camouflage pattern and preshrunk as described in Example 1. The properties of the stretch fabric of Example 6 are shown in Table 1. Example 6 The fabric meets or exceeds all military regulations set forth in MIL-C-44034D, except for fabric weight and breaking strength.

Example  7

A stretch fabric with 44.0% stretch was prepared using 54 ppi 15s Niko and 50 ppi 22s Niko / 70D-Lycra ^(R) core spun composite yarns as warp yarns. The fabric was woven, dyed, finished and preshrunk as described in Example 1, except that the fabric was not bleached and screen printed in a woodland camouflage pattern. The properties of the stretch fabric of Example 7 are shown in Table 1. Example 7 Fabrics meet or exceed all military regulations set forth in MIL-C-44034D, with the exception of fabric weight and breaking strength.

Example  8

A stretch fabric with 39.9% stretch was made using 54 epi of 15s Niko and 50 ppi 21s Nico / 70D-Lycra ^(R) core spun composite yarns as warp yarns. The fabric was woven on an airflow loom and prepared for printing in a jig dyeing machine (without loosening, scrubbing and bleaching). The fabric was then ink jet printed with a color camouflage pattern that was neither desert camouflage nor woodland camouflage. The properties of the stretch fabric of Example 8 are shown in Table 1. Example 8 Fabrics meet or exceed all military regulations set forth in MIL-C-44034D, with the exception of fabric weight and breaking strength.

The description should not be construed as limiting in any way, and variations of the invention will be apparent to those skilled in the art.

Claims (17)

About 2 to about 4 weight percent elastomer; And Nylon and cotton of the rest, including yarns spun with nylon and cotton As an elastic fabric comprising a, The modulus of nylon and cotton staple fibers, including nylon and cotton spun yarn, is substantially coincident, and also attaches a weight representing a load of 6N (3.37 lb / in. ² ) to the stretch fabric and the stretch fabric with weight A stretch fabric, wherein the stretch fabric exhibits from 20% to about 50% fabric stretch as measured by the increased amount of stretch fabric by allowing it to hang freely. The stretch fabric of claim 1, wherein the stretch fabric exhibits at least about 30% fabric stretch. The stretch fabric of claim 1, wherein the stretch fabric exhibits at least about 35% fabric stretch. The stretch fabric of claim 1, wherein the stretch fabric exhibits at least about 40% fabric stretch. The stretch fabric of claim 1, wherein the stretch fabric exhibits at least about 45% fabric stretch. The stretch fabric of claim 1, wherein the stretch fabric comprises one of satin, twill, ripstop, basket, or base fabrics. The stretch fabric of claim 6 wherein the yarn spun from nylon and cotton comprises a two-ply yarn comprising substantially equal amounts of nylon and cotton by weight. The stretch fabric of claim 7 wherein the elastomer comprises a nylon and cotton yarn and an elastomeric yarn core spun, and wherein the core-spun elastomeric yarn is incorporated into the stretchable fabric during weaving of the stretchable fabric in the weft direction. The stretch fabric of claim 8, wherein the stretch fabric has a weight greater than about 6.5 oz / yd ² . The method of claim 8, wherein the breaking strength of the stretch fabric as measured by ASTM D5034-95 is about 160 lbf in the warp direction of the stretch fabric. Greater than about 60 lbf. In the direction of the stretch of the stretch fabric. Stretch fabric that is in excess. The air permeability of the stretch fabric according to claim 8, as measured by ASTM D737-96. ³ / min / ft. Stretch fabric less than ^two . The stretch fabric of claim 8, wherein the stretch fabric weight is about 6.5 oz./yd. Greater than ² and the breaking strength of the stretch fabric as measured by ASTM D5034-95 is about 160 lbf. In the warp direction of the stretch fabric. Greater than about 60 lbf. In the direction of the stretch of the stretch fabric. Exceeding the air permeability of the stretch fabric as measured by ASTM D 737-96. ³ / min / ft. ^An elastic fabric that is less than ^two . The stretch fabric of claim 8 wherein the stretch fabric shrinkage after washing and drying is less than about 3.5%. The stretch fabric of claim 8, wherein the stretch fabric weight is about 6.5 oz./yd. ² to about 7 oz./yd. ² , the breaking strength of the stretch fabric as measured by ASTM D5034-95 is from about 160 to about 220 lbf. In the warp direction of the stretch fabric, from about 60 to about 145 lbf. In the string direction of the stretch fabric, ASTM D The air permeability of the stretch fabric measured by 737-96 is about 11 ft. ³ / min / ft. ² , stretch fabric is less than about 3.5% shrinkage after washing and drying. The stretch fabric of claim 14 wherein the elastic polymer comprises a polyurea-urethane polymer. Apparel comprising the fabric of claim 8. Making nylon / cotton yarns; Producing elastic core spun yarn; Providing nylon / cotton yarn to the weaving loom in the warp direction; Providing the produced elastic core spun yarn to the weaving loom in a weft direction substantially perpendicular to the warp direction; Weaving the weft yarns together with the warp yarns to form a fabric having about 75 to about 90 warp yarns per inch and about 50 to about 60 weft yarns per inch; Dyeing the fabric with the dye portion received by the cotton portion of nylon / cotton yarn and the elastic core spun yarn produced; Dyeing the fabric with a dye received by the nylon portion of the nylon / cotton yarn and the elastic core spinning yarn; Printing the pattern on the dyed fabric; By forming patterned stretch fabrics; When measured by the increased amount of stretch fabric by attaching a weight representing a load of 6N (3.37 lb / in. ² ) to the sample and allowing the sample to hang freely with the weight, the patterned stretch fabric is about 20% to about 50 It shows% elasticity, Method of making patterned stretch fabric.

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