WO2002018686A2

WO2002018686A2 - Synthetic chamois fabrics and method of making same

Info

Publication number: WO2002018686A2
Application number: PCT/US2001/021777
Authority: WO
Inventors: Nathan B. Emery; Stephen F. Waddell; Brenda Burris-Drake; Sam Whitt
Original assignee: Milliken & Company
Priority date: 2000-08-30
Filing date: 2001-07-10
Publication date: 2002-03-07
Also published as: AU2001273335A1; WO2002018686A3

Abstract

A synthetic chamois fabric having superior strength, color and performance is described, as is a method for its production. The fabric is woven from synthetic fiber-containing yarns, then desirably lubricated and subjected to a hydraulic face finishing process which serves to soften the fabric and increase its loft. The fabric is also desirably dyed and subjected to a pill-reduction treatment. The resulting fabric has a unique combination of washfastness, durability (both in wearing and washing), hand, wicking, soil release, crease retention, dimensional stability, and wrinkle resistance, while retaining a feel similar to that of the conventional cotton product. The fabric also has low air permeability in combination with desirable thermal insulating properties.

Description

SYNTHETIC CHAMOIS FABRICS AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

Cotton chamois fabrics are commonly used in the production of outdoor apparel such as the type worn by hunters and the like. Such fabrics are known for providing good insulation properties as well as a soft hand. As will be readily appreciated by those of ordinary skill in the art, "chamois" fabrics are those which are designed to simulate a soft, pliable, oil-dressed leather. One of the disadvantages associated with such fabrics is the fact that cotton fabrics lose strength and color, and deteriorate in overall appearance and performance relatively rapidly following only a limited number of washings and wearings. Another disadvantage with such fabrics is that it can be difficult to get soils and stains out of these fabrics. In addition, such fabrics can be slow to dry, and tend to have undesirably low dimensional stability (i.e. they tend to shrink.)

Other similar types of fabrics commonly used in the hunting and outdoor markets include flannel fabrics, napped wool fabrics, and the like. In addition, the assignee of the invention which is the subject of this application also has developed and marketed a fabric designed to perform similarly to the napped wool product. This fabric is woven from open end spun polyester tow yarns (i.e. those in which the staple fibers are produced by drawing filaments until they break.) This polyester fabric is then napped and sheared. While providing an extremely desirable substitute for conventional napped wool fabrics, there still exists a need for fabrics having a cotton chamois feel and appearance while providing superior performance characteristics such as durability, color retention and hand retention.

SUMMARY

The present invention provides a combination of physical and performance characteristics, while providing a feel that is as good as, and in many cases even better than, that of cotton chamois. More specifically, the fabrics of the present invention have high durability (both wearing and washing), high colorfastness, wicking, soil release, wrinkle resistance, and crease retention. In addition, the fabrics have high dimensional stability, good thermal insulation, lower air permeability and a fast drying time. Furthermore, the fabrics have all of these desirable performance and physical characteristics while having hand properties similar to, and in some cases even superior to, those of cotton chamois. As a result, garments or other products can be produced from these fabrics to have superior performance capabilities to those of conventional cotton chamois, and superior to prior art cotton chamois substitutes.

The fabric can be produced by providing a woven synthetic fiber- containing fabric (preferably one including spun yarns), applying a lubricant to the fabric and dyeing it, and subjecting it to a hydraulic process which bulks the fabric and moves a number of the individual fibers away from the yarn bundle and to the fabric surface. The fabric may also be subjected to a pilling reduction process designed to reduce its tendency to pill during washing and wear.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS Fig. 1 is a flow diagram illustrating one method of producing fabrics according to the instant invention.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION In the following detailed description of the invention, specific preferred embodiments of the invention are described to enable a full and complete understanding of the invention. It will be recognized that it is not intended to limit the invention to the particular preferred embodiment described, and although specific terms are employed in describing the invention, such terms are used in a descriptive sense for the purpose of illustration and not for the purpose of limitation. With reference to the drawing, Fig. 1 illustrates one method that can be used to produce fabrics according to the instant invention.

A woven fabric is provided. The fabric of the invention is desirably a woven fabric produced from synthetic yarns. Preferably, the fabric is substantially all polyester, although other fibers could be used within the scope of the invention, including but not limited to nylon, polylactide based fibers, PTT, polypropylene, or blends thereof. In addition, the fabric could be made from a blend of synthetic fibers with natural fibers such as cotton, rayon or the like.

The fabric may be woven in any of a variety of constructions, including but not limited to plain weave, twill weave, oxford weave, or the like. In one form of the invention, the fabric is woven in a twill construction (e.g. a 2X1 , 2X2 or 3X1 twill construction). The fabric preferably includes spun yarns in at least the warp direction. In one form of the invention, spun yarns are used in both the warp and fill directions. In an embodiment of the invention, the warp and filling are formed substantially or entirely from spun yarns.

Yarns of various sizes and varieties can be used. Preferably, spun yarns about 10/1 to about 19/1 in size are used to form the fabric, and where filament yarns are also used (e.g. in the filling), they are desirably about 300 - 600 denier and have individual filaments with a dpf of about 3.0 or less. For example, 15/1 open end spun polyester yarns formed from 1.2 dpf, 1.5" fibers have been found to produce fabrics having good physical properties. However, other types of yarns (e.g. ring spun, air jet spun, vortex spun, friction spun) can be used within the scope of the invention, as can yarns of a variety of sizes.

The weight of the greige fabric can be chosen to achieve the desired end properties and finished weight. For example, greige fabrics having a weight of about 2 oz/sq yd to about 20 oz/ sq yard, and more preferably about 6-10 oz/sq yd have been found to produce apparel goods of a good finished weight and having good performance characteristics. As will be readily appreciated by those of ordinary skill in the art, the particular desired weight of the fabric can be obtained through the type and size of yarn used as well as the construction and tightness of the weave used. For example, a greige 2X2 twill construction of 62 ends per inch x 62 picks per inch of 15/1 yarns has been found to produce a desirable fabric.

The greige woven fabric is desirably prepared in a conventional manner, such as on an open-width type scouring range, to remove size, oils, and the like which may be present on the fabric from the weaving process. In some cases, it may be desirable to scour the fabrics two or more times to insure a high level of cleanliness.

The fabric is then desirably dyed. In a particularly preferred form of the invention, the fabric is also chemically treated to reduce pilling. This can be performed prior to, during or subsequent to the fabric being dyed (where applicable). For example, the pilling reduction process described in commonly- assigned U.S. Patent Application Serial No. 08/373,721 has been found to perform well in the process of the invention. This application SN 08/373,721 , entitled "Method of Dyeing Low Pill Polyester", filed January 17, 1995 by William Kimbrell, is hereby incorporated herein by reference. The pilling reduction process described in the 721 application involves treating polyester fibers with an aliphatic amine to reduce the tensile strength of the polyester fibers, and dyeing the fibers with a disperse dye mixture including a harmonizing compound selected from the group consisting of C₈-Cu aliphatic fatty acid ethoxylates having from 5 to 15 ethylene oxide residues, C₈-Ci₆ alcohol ethoxylates having from 5 to 15 ethylene oxide residues, and Cβ-Ciβ aliphatic amine ethoxylates having from 5 to 15 ethylene oxide residues. However, other methods of reducing pilling may be used if desired. As will be appreciated by those of ordinary skill in the art, the amount of pilling depends on the fiber content, manner in which the yarns were spun, fabric construction, etc., and therefore the need for such a treatment and type of treatment used will vary according to the requirements of the end product to be produced. The fabric is also desirably treated with a lubricant prior to the upcoming hydraulic processing step (discussed further herein). For example, a lubricant can be incorporated within the dye bath or applied in a separate operation. This lubricant serves to help soften the fabric and prepare it for subsequent processing. For example, lubricants such as high molecular weight ethoxylated polyester have been found to perform well in the invention. The lubricant is desirably provided in at least about a 1 % concentration, and more desirably, in a concentration of about 3% or greater.

The fabric may then be dried in a conventional manner, such as by passing it through a tenter frame. However, it is noted that this drying step may be skipped where desired, and the fabric routed on to the next step directly after dyeing. Preferably this is performed at conventional drying temperatures for the particular fabric used.

The fabric is then hydraulically processed to raise the fibers and soften the fabric. For example, the fabric can be processed through an apparatus which contacts the fabric with a number of tiny jets of high-pressure water which serve to move a number of the individual fibers away from the yarn bundle and to the fabric surface. Some examples of hydraulic face finishing processes are described in U.S. Patent Nos. 5,080,952, 5,983,469, 5,933,931 , 5,870,807, 5,806,155, 5,737,813, 5,657,520, 5,632,072, 5,136,761 , 4,995,151 , and 4,967,456. Examples of equipment which can be used to hydraulically treat the fabrics and are manufactured by Textile Enhancements International, Inc. and Fleissner GmbH & Co., Reiter/Perfojet, Inc. and described in the above- referenced patents. A process for hydraulically treating the fabric which has been found to perform well in the instant invention is described in commonly- assigned co-pending U.S. Patent application Serial No. 09/344,596 for "Napped Fabric and Process", filed June 25, 1999 by Emery et al, the subject matter of which is incorporated herein by reference. One process for forming the fabrics of the invention involves hydraulically treating both the front and back faces of the fabric, in some cases, with less jet force on one face of the fabric than the other. For example, in one arrangement which performs well in the invention, an apparatus having approximately 40 jets/inch and acts on one face of the fabric with a pressure of 1275 psi using a jet velocity of about 435 ft/s, and a flow rate of water of about 488 gpm, for a total force exerted on the fabric by water of 456 lbs. and a total energy imparted to the fabric of 363 hp, while a 650 psi pressure is applied by the secondary nozzle to the other side of the fabric using a jet velocity of about 311 ft/s and a flow rate of water of 349 gpm, for a total force exerted on the fabric by water of 233 lbs. and total energy imparted to the fabric of 133 hp. It has been found that this process acts primarily on the yarns in the warp direction (which as noted above, are preferably spun yarns), thereby expanding and opening the yarns such that more individual fiber ends and loops are exposed on the surface of the fabric. This creates a soft pile-like surface on the surface of the fabric. Preferably, the hydraulic processing is performed so that the Kawabata System T_maχ of the fabric is increased at least about 50%, and preferably at least about 80%, over its initial T_max. It has surprisingly been discovered that by adding a lubricant to the fabric prior to the hydraulic processing operation, the T_max thickness and softness can be improved over that achieved by hydraulic processing alone. In fact, it has been found that a fabric like that described below in Example C which was treated with a lubricant prior to hydraulic processing achieved about a 9- 10% greater increase in thickness (as measured using a manual thickness gauge that applies a force of about 250 g) over the same fabric when hydraulically processed without the initial lubricant step.

A lubricant (such as the type desirably applied upstream, as described above) is desirably applied to the hydraulically-processed fabric, and the fabric is then heatset, if desired. It is been found that fabrics made by the process of the instant invention have a good soft hand which is durable and resilient through a number of wearings and washings.

EXAMPLES:

Example A- A conventional 7 oz/sq yd cotton chamois fabric made from 16/1 warp yarns and 6/1 fill yarns woven in a 47 epi X 32 ppi plain weave construction, and which had been napped and sheared, was obtained.

Example B- A 7.7 oz/sq yd, 100% polyester 2 X 2 righthand twill fabric was produced. The fabric was made using 13.25/1 open end spun tow yarn, and had a greige weight of 11.57 oz/linear yard. The fabric was finished, napped and sheared, and had a finished weight of 13 oz/linear yard.

Example C- A fabric was manufactured according to the instant invention as follows. Specifically, the fabric was a 2 X 2 right hand twill fabric made from 15/1 100% T-121 Rieter R1 OE 3.60 yarn in both the warp and filling direction. This yarn was formed using 1.5" polyester fibers that were 1.2 denier per filament. The greige construction was 62 epi X 62 ppi. The greige fabric was prepared in an open width scouring range to remove size. The fabric was scoured again in a jet to ensure its cleanliness. The fabric was then treated with an aliphatic amine (approximately .2-.3% Duomeen C, which is commercially available from Akzo Chemical) and dyed in the manner described in commonly-assigned U.S. Patent Application Serial No. 08/373,721 to Kimbrell (discussed above), and a high molecular weight ethoxylated polyester lubricant was added (approximately 1 % solids in solution) to the dye cycle to soften the fabric. The fabric was dried on a tenter frame, then hydraulically processed in the manner described in commonly- assigned U.S. Patent Application Serial No. 09/344,596 to Emery et al. The apparatus was run such that with approximately 40 jets/inch acting on one face of the fabric with a pressure of 1275 psi using a jet velocity of about 435 ft/s, and a flow rate of water of about 488 gpm, for a total force exerted on the fabric by water of 456 lbs and a total energy imparted to the fabric of 363 hp. A 650 psi pressure was applied by a secondary nozzle to the other side of the fabric using a jet velocity of about 311 ft/s and a flow rate of water of 349 gpm, for a total force exerted on the fabric by water of 233 lbs and total energy imparted to the fabric of 133 hp. The thickness of the fabric (measured using a Starrett handheld thickness gauge model 1015A with ³λ" contacts, applying about 250 g of pressure) changed from 0.025" before hydraulic processing to 0.028"-0.032" after hydraulic processing. Additional high molecular weight ethoxylated polyester lubricant (approximately .5% owf) was padded onto the fabric, and the fabric was then heat set on a tenter frame, to a 7 oz/sq yd finished fabric weight.

TEST METHODS:

The fabrics were all tested to determine the following characteristics using the Kawabata Evaluation System ("Kawabata System"). The Kawabata System was developed by Dr. Sueo Kawabata, Professor of Polymer Chemistry at Kyoto University in Japan, as a scientific means to measure, in an objective and reproducible way, the "hand" of textile fabrics. This is achieved by measuring basic mechanical properties that have been correlated with aesthetic properties relating to hand (e.g. smoothness, fullness, stiffness, softness, flexibility, and crispness), using a set of four highly specialized measuring devices that were developed specifically for use with the Kawabata System. These devices are as follows:

Kawabata Tensile and Shear Tester (KES FB1) Kawabata Pure Bending Tester (KES FB2) Kawabata Compression Tester (KES FB3) Kawabata Surface Tester (KES FB4)

KES FB1 through 3 are manufactured by the Kato Iron Works Col, Ltd., Div. Of Instrumentation, Kyoto, Japan. KES FB4 (Kawabata Surface Tester) is manufactured by the Kato Tekko Co., Ltd., Div. Of Instrumentation, Kyoto, Japan. In each case, the measurements were performed according to the standard Kawabata Test Procedures, with 4 8-inch X 8-inch samples of each type of fabric being tested, and the results averaged. Care was taken to avoid folding, wrinkling, stressing, or otherwise handling the samples in a way that would deform the sample. The fabrics were tested in their as-manufactured form

(i.e. they had not undergone subsequent launderings.) The die used to cut each sample was aligned with the yarns in the fabric to improve the accuracy of the measurements. The results of each of the tests are listed below in Table A.

SHEAR MEASUREMENTS

The testing equipment was set up according to the instructions in the Kawabata manual. The Kawabata shear tester (KES FB1 ) was allowed to warm up for at least 15 minutes before being calibrated. The tester was set up as follows: Sensitivity: 2 and X5 Sample width: 20 cm Shear weight: 195 g Tensile Rate: .2 mm/s Elongation Sensitivity: 25 mm

The shear test measures the resistive forces when the fabric is given a constant tensile force and is subjected to a shear deformation in the direction perpendicular to the constant tensile force. The following quantities are directly measured: x= shear displacement [mm]. Is converted to degrees, . y= resistive force [Kgf] to shear displacement.

The final hysteresis value at a given , is the average of the corresponding hysteresis values for the forward and backward parts of the graph, i.e. at +. The formulas for calculating the shear quantities are given below:

L1 = fabric length [cm] in direction parallel to shear motion (the nominal value is 20 cm).

G = - — x — x ___1 [gf /(cm-deg)] where a and b have units of Kgf / deg

2 LI l[Kgf] ^{» y} and

'= is the slope of Upper Forward branch between 0 = 0.5 and 0 = 2.5

2.5 - 0.5 b'= is the slope of Lower Backward branch between 0 = -0.5 and 0 =

2.5 - 0.5

2.5

2HG05 = x — x ^____i [gf/cm] where c and d have units of Kgf

2 El \[Kgf]

2HG25 = __ _x_ _xl______ l [gf/_cm] _wnere g and h have units of Kgf

2 El l[Kgf]

2HG50 = —2-x — x Ml [gf/cm] where e and f have units of Kgf

2 El \[Kgf]

RG05 = ^2HG05 [degrees]

RG25 = ^2HG25 [degrees]

RG50 = ^2HG5° [degrees]

Mean Shear Stiffness (G) [gf/(cm-deg)]. A lower value for shear stiffness is indicative of a more supple hand.

Shear hysteresis (2ΗG05)- Shear hysterisis at 0.5° [gf/cm] — Lower value is indicative of a more supple hand.

Shear hysteresis (2HG25)- Shear hysteresis at 2.5°[gf/cm]~ Lower value is indicative of a more supple hand.

Shear hysteresis (2HG50)- Shear hysteresis at 5.0° [gf/cm]. Lower value is indicative of a more supple hand.

Residual shear angle (RG05)- Residual shear angle at 0.5° [degrees]. Residual shear angle (RG25)- Residual shear angle at 2.5° [degrees]. Residual shear angle (RG50)- Residual shear angle at 5.0° [degrees]. SURFACE TEST

The testing equipment was set up according to the instructions in the Kawabata Manual. The Kawabata Surface Tester (KES FB4) was allowed to warm up for at least 15 minutes before being calibrated. The tester was set up as follows:

Sensitivity 1 : 2 and X5 Sensitivity 2: 2 and X5 Tension Weight: 480 g Surface Roughness Weight: 10 g

Sample Size: 20 X 20 cm

The surface test measures frictional properties and geometric roughness properties of the surface of the fabric. The sample of fabric is moved first in a forward direction and then back (under constant tension) while underneath and in contact with a frictional contactor. The frictional drag force is measured while the contactor is under constant force normal to the fabric surface. For the roughness measurement, a probe contactor (loaded with a fixed force) is placed in contact with the fabric and normal to the surface. The vertical movements (normal to the fabric surface) of the contactor caused by the sample surface are measured while the fabric is moved forward and back. The following quantities are directly measured and values calculated using the following formulas: X= horizontal sweep displacement [cm] of a contactor Y= surface frictional force [gf]

Z= displacement [mm] of a contactor normal to the fabric. The formulas for calculating the surface quantities are given below:

Pertinent constants and derived quantities:

NORMAL FORCE = force applied to frictional contactor normal to surface

50.0 [gf] mu = coefficient of friction y [gf] / NORMALFORCE [gf] [dimensionless]

Note that mu depends upon x because y depends upon x. Because the fabric moves first in one direction (forward) and then in the opposite direction (back), there are two sections (forward and back) where data are selected for calculation.

Select two values (x_a and x_b) of x bounding the forward direction data and two values (x_c and X ) of x bounding the back direction data. Then let miufor = mean coefficient of friction between x_a and X_b miuback = mean coefficient of friction between x_c and X_d mmdfor = mean deviation of coefficient of friction between x_a and X_b mmdback = mean deviation of coefficient of friction between x_c and Xd mean_z_for = mean contactor displacement normal to fabric between x_a and X mean_z_back = mean contactor displacement normal to fabric between x_c and X_d smdfor = mean deviation of contactor displacement between x_a and X_b smdback = mean deviation of contactor displacement between x_c and X_d

j ^* mudx[cm] miufor = ηX r- [dimensionless]

{x_b - x_al^an

mudx[cm] miuback = -τ- r- [dimensionless]

(x_d -x_clcm]

f \mu — miufor

mmdfor = — — -, T- [dimensionless]

mmdback = — - — -. r- [dimensionless] x_d -x_cχcm]

An adjustment is made for the negative sign of y between x_c and X_d; i.e., |mu| is actually used in the above

Two formulas for the backward calculations instead of mu.

I^{" b} z[mm]dx[cm] mean _ z __ back - — [mm]

(x_d -x_e)[cm]

^b\z - mean_z_backfor \dx[cm] _{1000[microns]} . smdfor = -^ x - [microns]

(x_d -x_c) [cm] l[mm]

_Jr , _{1000[microns]} . smdback =

x [microns]

(x_d - x_c)[cm] l[mm]

The final surface measures are calculated as averages of the corresponding quantities for the two directions. miufor + miuback

MIU =

, „ ,_^ mmdfor + mmdback MMD =

,_^ smdfor + smdback SMD =

Coefficient of Friction (MIU)- Mean coefficient of friction [dimensionless]. Higher value indicates that the surface consists of more fiber ends and loops. This gives the fabric a soft, fuzzy hand.

Deviation of MIU (MMD)- Mean deviation of coefficient of friction [dimensionless]. The deviation of the coefficient of friction value as described above.

Surface Roughness (SMD)- Mean deviation of the displacement of contactor normal to surface [microns]. Indicative of how rough the surface of the fabric is. BENDING

The testing equipment was set up according to the instructions in the Kawabata Manual. The Kawabata Bending Tester (KES FB2) was allowed to warm up for at least 15 minutes before being calibrated. The tester was set up as follows:

Sensitivity: 2 and X1

Sample Size: 20 X 20 cm

The bending test measures the resistive force encountered when a piece of fabric that is held or anchored in a line parallel to the warp or filling is bent in an arc. The fabric is bent first in the direction of one side and then in the direction of the other side. This action produces a hysteresis curve since the resistive force is measured during bending and unbending in the direction of each side. The width of the fabric in the direction parallel to the bending axis affects the force. The test ultimately measures the bending momentum and bending curvature. The following quantities are directly measured:

X = curvature K [cm^"1] Y= bending momentum [gf-cm] The final hysteresis at a given K is the average of the corresponding hysteresis values for the forward and backward parts of the graph, i.e., at + K.

The formulas for calculating the bending quantities are given below: L1 = width [cm] of fabric in direction parallel to the bending axis the nominal value is 20 cm.

B = X — [ gf - cm² / cm] where a and b have units of gf - cm/cm^"1 and Ei where

α'= is the slope of Upper Forward branch between K = 0.5 and K = 1.5

1.5 -0.5 b'= is the slope of Lower Backward branch between K = -0.5 and K =

1.5 - 0.5

1.5

2HB05 = - — —X — [gf - cm/cm] where e and g have units of gf - cm

2HE10 = X — [gf - cm/cm] where c and d have units of gf - cm

2H515 = [gf - cm/cm] where and h have units of gf - cm

_{n πn r}- 2HB05 , -1-

RB05 = [cm ']

B

10

R510 = [cm ¹]

B

, _r._{r l r} 2HBI5 - -1- 5 RB15 -= cm

B

Bending Stiffness (B)- Mean bending stiffness per unit width [gf-cm²/cm]. Lower 0 value means a more supple hand.

Bending hysteresis (2ΗB05)- Mean width of bending hysteresis per unit width at K = 0.5 cm^"1 [gf-cm/cm]. Lower value means the fabric recovers more completely from bending. 5

Bending hysteresis (2HB10)- Mean width of bending hysteresis per unit width at K= 1.0 cm^"1 [gf-cm/cm]. Lower value means the fabric recovers more completely from bending.

0 Bending hysteresis (2HB15)- Mean width of bending hysteresis per unit width at K = 1.5 cm^"1 [gf-cm/cm]. Lower value means the fabric recovers more completely from bending. Residual bending curvature @ K = 0.5 cm^"1 [cm^"1] (RB05)

Residual bending curvature @ K = 1.0 cm^"1 [cm^"1] (RB10)

Residual bending curvature @ K = 1.5 cm^"1 [cm^"1] (RB15)

TENSILE

The testing equipment was set up according to the instructions in the Kawabata manual. The Kawabata Tensile Tester (KES FB1) was allowed to warm up for at least 15 minutes before being calibrated. The tester was set up as follows:

Sensitivity: 5 and X5

Sample Width: 20 cm Shear Weight: 195 g

Tensile Rate: .2 mm/s

Elongation Sensitivity: 25 mm

Tensile Maximum Force per Fabric Width: 500 gf/cm

The tensile test measures the tensile strain (force) when a fabric sample of a certain length is held by two chucks and when the chucks move apart. The length is perpendicular to the direction of motion. The fabric width is 5.0 cm at rest. The test ultimately measures how much the fabric can be extended by a preset (500, 250 or 50 gf/cm) amount of tensile force and measures several quantities related to the work required to extend the fabric. The quantities x and y are directly measured, and values calculated as follows: X= displacement [mm] in direction of applied force Y= force [kgf] experienced during displacement The formulas for calculating the tensile quantities are given below:

These values are assumed known:

L1 = fabric length [dm] perpendicular to direction of tensile force FABWIDTH = (normal value is 20 cm)

Fabric width [cm] - Value is preset to 5.0 cm

E E = 100x ^X-^[mm] X- ^1[CM]

FABWIDTH[cm] I0[mm] [percent]

_τ_ f ™^x [Kgf]dx[mm] _l[cm] o[gf] 1 ~

WT = - x— — —x ^l-^ -χ [gf - cm/cnr]

FABWIDTH[cm] 10[m ] l[Kgf] Ll[cm]

(y is from lower curve)

_{^ ^} . [ y[Kgf]dx[mι?ι _1[cm] I000[gf] 1 .

WT Pr ime = — x — — — x -^- x [gf - cm/crrr]

FABWIDTH[cm] I0[mm] l[Kgf] Ll[cm]

(y is from lower curve)

RT =- ,l0_Λ0_Λx WT ^'Prime _r [percent]

WT

WT LT = [dimensionless] where

Denom

Denom = "Area" of Triangle { (0,y(0)), (X_maχ,y(0)), (Xm_ax, y(X_maχ))}

Tensile energy (WT)- Tensile work (energy) during extension [gf/cm]

Linearity of extension (LT)- Compares extension work with the work along a hypothetical straight line from (0,y(0)) to (X_maχ, y (x_max)) Tensile Resilience (RT) [%]- Ability to recover from tensile deformation. Lower values mean fabric deformation is more permanent.

% Extensibility (EMT)- % strain (extension) at 500 gf/cm [%]

COMPRESSION

The testing equipment was set up according to the instructions in the Kawabata manual. The Kawabata Compression Tester (KES FB3) was allowed to warm up for at least 15 minutes before being calibrated. The tester was set up as follows:

Sensitivity: 2 and X5 Stroke: 5mm

Compression Rate: 1 mm/50s Sample Size: 20 X 20 cm The compression test measured the resistive forces experienced by a plunger having a certain surface area as it moves alternately toward and away from a fabric sample in a direction perpendicular to the fabric. The test ultimately measures the work done in compressing the fabric (forward direction) to a preset maximum force and the work done while decompressing the fabric (reverse direction). The following quantities are directly measured: x= travel distance or location of plunger [mm] y= force experienced by plunger [gf]

)

The values of these quantities are assumed to be known:

Gap = the Gap is pre-calculated by the computer program

[mm]

L1 & L2 = length and width of weighed fabric sample [cm]

Weight = weight [g] of rectangular sample of fabric of dimensions L1 x L2

Plunger Area = area [cm²] of plunger surface in contact with fabric Pmax = indicates whether to use the observed maximum pressure in the calculations or to use the nominal maximum pressure of 50 gf/cm² in the calculations. (1 means to use observed, 0 means use nominal) Decision_gf_per_cm2 = pressure at which Tmin is determined

(Value is either 0.5 gf/cm² or 5.0 gf/cm²) Thus, four different calculations may be done depending upon the choice of Pmax and decision_gf_per_cm2.

Tmin=Gap - {x @ decision_gf_per_cm2} = Gap - Xo [mm] Tmax=Gap - {x @ maximum pressure} = Gap - X _max [mm]

Tdiff = Tmin - Tmax [mm]

^"" y[gf]dx[mm] „ ,

W( - — ? X — - — X [gf - cm/cm ] (y is from upper

{PlungerAreα[cm2]} 10[mm] curve)

I „"^" y[gf]dx[mm] _jr ^,

WCPrime = — — X — — — [gf - cm/cm ] (y is from lower

{PlungerAreα[cm2]} 10[mm] curve)

f?C = 100 x ^WCPτιme [percent]

WC

LC = wc [dimensionless] where

Denom

-. (rmin-En ax)[ww] Force @ XMAX[ gf] 1 _r , , _{2 π}

Denom = — ^x — ^_Lχ- [gf - cm/cm ]

10[mm /cm] Plunger Areα\cm ] 2

Deπot77 = "Area" of Triangle {X₀ , y (Xo)), (XMAX, y (Xo)), (XMAX, y (XMAX))}

_J7 . . . I000[mg] Weigh[g] . . _2l

Weιght2 = ^-^- x ≥-J≤^ — [mg/cm ] l[g] Ll[cm]xL2[cm]

Weight2[mg I cm² ] ( l[cm]

DensityMin = x T vn [mm] I0[mm] [mg/mm³ or g/cm³] Weight2[mg I cm²] ( \[cm]

DensityMax = T ax[mm] I 10[/w ] [mg/mm or g/cm³]

„ ., _ΛΛ Tdiffhnm] _r

Corøp = 100 — — — - [percent] T [mm]

%_Compressibility- 0.5 grams- (COMP05)

Minimum Density - 0.5 grams-(DMIN)- Fabric density at thickness T_mj_n[g/cm³]

Maximum Density -50 grams-(DMAX)- Fabric density at thickness T_max[g/cm³]

Linearity of Compression - 0.5 grams-(LCOδ)- Compares compression work with the work along a hypothetical straight line from (X₀, y(Xo)) to (X_maχ, y(Xmax))

Compressional Resilience (RC05)- 0.5 grams- [%]

Minimum Thickness- 0.5 grams-(TMIN)- Thickness [mm] at minimum gf/cm²)

Maximum Thickness (TMAX)- Thickness [mm] at maximum pressure (nominal is 50 gf/cm²)

TMAX-TMIN (TDIFF)- [mm]

Compressional Energy (WC)- Energy to compress fabric to 50 gf/cm²[gf-cm/cm²]

Decompressional Energy (WC)- This is an indication of the resilience of the fabric. A larger number indicates more resiliency.

The samples were also tested for the following parameters:

Appearance Retention after 30 washes: Appearance retention was tested according to AATCC Test Method 124. This test rates fabric appearance from 0 to 5, with 5 being the best. Wicking [in/min]: Wicking was tested according to Milliken Wicking Test Method as follows: 500 mL Erlenmeyer flasks are filled with 200 mL colored water (water with added food coloring of a color which will make water level visible on particular specimen.) The number of flasks prepared corresponds with the number of specimens to be tested. A 6" X 1 " strip of the speciments is cut, such that the 6" length is cut in the wale direction. (In other words, the long yarns in the specimen will be warp yarns.) The top edge of each specimen strip is pierced with a long straight pin approximately 1/8" - " from the top of the specimen. Each strip is then suspended from its pin into a flask by way of the pin lying across the mouth of the flask. After 1 minute, the strip is removed from the flask. The water level on the strip is measured in inches and recorded. A higher number therefore is indicative of a fabric having superior wicking performance. A high degree of wicking not only enables a garment to disperse moisture and dry more quickly, but it has been found to enhance the comfort of the garment for the wearer by preventing the wearer from feeling wet.

' Soil Release: Soil release was tested according to AATCC Test Method 130. Fabrics are rated from 0 to 5, with a 5 representing the top level of soil release performance.

Crease Retention: Crease retention was tested according to AATCC Test Method 88C. Fabrics are rated from 0 to 5, with a 5 representing the top level of crease retention performance.

Drying Time [min]: Drying time was tested according to Milliken Drying Time

Test Method as follows: Using a Relative Humidity probe attached to a strip chart recorder, a room condition baseline is recorded. A 6" X 6" swatch of fabric is saturated with warm water (105°F). The wet fabric was placed between single layers of paper towel and passed through a laboratory wringer with a 20 lb. Load. The fabric was removed from the paper towel and placed, single layer, over the Relative Humidity probe. The time required for the chart to return to the baseline is then recorded. The results illustrate the amount of time it takes to return a sample of fabric to surrounding conditions after saturation with water. A quicker drying garment will generally be more comfortable for a wearer. In addition, shorter drying time means reduced energy costs during cleaning.

Dimensional Stability [%]: Dimensional stability was measured in both the warp and fill directions according to AATCC Test Method 135. As will be readily appreciated, a lower result means that the fabric shrinks less than one having a higher value.

Pilling: Pilling was tested according to ASTM D 3512. Fabrics are rated from 0 to 5, with 5 representing the top level of pilling performance (i.e., almost zero pilling).

Cover:: Cover was visually evaluated by holding the samples up to a light source and evaluating the amount of cover. Fabrics are rated from 0 to 5 with 5 representing the maximum level of cover ( i.e., a fabric having almost no pores).

Dyed Appearance: Dyed Appearance was visually evaluated for each sample. Fabrics are rated from 0 to 5, with 5 representing the top level of performance (which indicates a good level dyed appearance.)

Wet Crocking: Wet crocking was evaluated according to AATCC Test Method 8. Fabrics are rated 0 to 5, with 5 representing the top.

Thermal Conductivity (K [W/cm°C]: Thermal Conductivity was evaluated according to the Milliken Thermal Conductivity Test Method as follows. Thermal Conductivity was tested using the ThermoLabo II Machine "Precise and Prompt Thermal Prosperity Measurement Instrument" manufactured by Kato Tech Co. Limited of Japan. This instrument is part of the Kawabata Evaluation System F7, and was performed in its standard manner. Water at room temperature was circulated throughout the apparatus. BT Box temperature was set at room temperature plus 10°C. Guard temperature was set at BT Box temperature plus 0.3°C. The sample was put on the water box and after the temperature of the

BT Box and Guard attained the set up temperature, the BT Box was placed directly on the sample. W setting was selected on the "five-some" button switch,

W range was set at 2W, and after a constant value was attained, the number from the digital panel reader was recorded. Standard weight of BT Box was 150 g, and the pressure measurement was as follows:

P= 15- gf/25 cm² = 6 gf/cm²

K was calculated as: K = WD [W/cm°C] A- To

Where D= thickness of sample (cm)

A= area of heat plate of BT Box [cm²] Ks, (W/m/K)= K X 10^"2 Low thermal conductivity indicates that the fabric serves as a good insulator, especially when wet. This also corresponds to improved fabric comfort.

Air Permeability [cfm @ 125 Pascals]: Air permeability was evaluated according to ASTM Test Method D737. Low air permeability indicates that a fabric resists wind penetration

The results of these tests are listed below in Table B.

Table B

As indicated, the fabric of the invention had dramatically superior performance characteristics to the conventional cotton chamois fabric in a number of areas. For example, the fabric had superior appearance retention, soil release, crease retention, drying time, dimensional stability in both the warp and fill directions, pilling resistance, cover, dyed appearance, wet crocking, shear stiffness, shear hysteresis, residual shear angle, linearity of extension and extensibility. Furthermore, the fabric had dramatically superior performance in a number of areas when compared with the prior wool-like fabric. For example, the fabric of the instant invention had superior wicking, air permeability, coefficient of friction (as evidenced by the MIU value), linearity of compression, maximum thickness, compressional energy and decompressional energy. As a result, garments made from the fabric of the invention will withstand laundering and wear longer and more effectively than prior art cotton chamois fabrics, and will do so with little to no pilling or shrinkage. In addition, the fabrics enable improved wearer comfort in that they wick better, dry more quickly, are better insulating and have reduced wind penetration. Furthermore, the fabrics of the invention have a hand which is as good as, and in most cases better than, prior art chamois fabrics.

While discussed in particular in connection with the manufacture of hunting and other types of outdoor apparel, it is noted that the fabrics of the invention would have utility in any end use where a soft hand and the other afore-mentioned properties would be desirable, including but not limited to other types of apparel, blankets, substrates, or the like. In addition, it has been found that the fabrics of the invention print extremely well, and stay pliable following the printing process.

In the specification there has been set forth a preferred embodiment of the invention, and although specific terms are employed, they are used in a generic and descriptive sense only and not for purpose of limitation, the scope of the invention being defined in the claims.

Claims

We Claim:

1. A synthetic chamois fabric having a Kawabata System MIU of about .26 or greater.

2. A fabric according to Claim 1 , wherein said fabric has a Kawabata System MIU of about .27 or greater.

3. A fabric according to Claim 1 , wherein said fabric has a Kawabata System MIU of about .28 or greater.

4. A fabric according to Claim 1 , wherein said fabric is a woven fabric comprising polyester fibers.

5. A fabric according to Claim 4, wherein said fabric consists essentially of polyester.

6. A fabric according to Claim 1 , wherein said fabric comprises spun polyester yarns.

7. A fabric according to Claim 1 , wherein said fabric has a shear stiffness of less than about 1.5 gf/(cm-deg).

8. A fabric according to Claim 1 , wherein said fabric has a shear stiffness of less than about 1.0 gf/(cm-deg).

9. A fabric according to Claim 1 , wherein said fabric has a Kawabata System compressional energy at 0.5 grams of greater than about..42 (gf-cm)/cm².

10. A fabric according to Claim 9, wherein said fabric has a Kawabata System compressional energy at 0.5 grams of greater than about .45 (gf-cm)/cm².

11. A fabric according to Claim 10, wherein said fabric has a Kawabata

System compressional energy at 0.5 grams of greater than about .50 (gf- cm)/cm².

12. A fabric according to Claim 11 , wherein said fabric has a Kawabata System compressional energy at 0.5 grams of greater than about .55 (gf- cm)/cm².

13. A fabric according to Claim 2, wherein said fabric has a shear stiffness of less than about 1.5 gf/(cm-deg).

14. A fabric according to Claim 2, wherein said fabric has a shear stiffness of less than about 1.0 gf/(cm-deg).

15. A fabric according to Claim 2, wherein said fabric has a Kawabata System compressional energy at 0.5 grams of greater than about .42 (gf-cm)/cm².

16. A fabric according to Claim 2, wherein said fabric has a Kawabata System compressional energy at 0.5 grams of greater than about .50(gf-cm)/cm².

17. A fabric according to Claim 1 , wherein said fabric has a MIU of at least about .28, a compressional energy at 0.5 grams of greater than about .50 (gf- cm)/cm², and a shear stiffness of less than about 1.0 gf/(cm-deg).

18. A fabric according to Claim 1 , wherein said fabric has been hydraulically processed such that a plurality of individual fibers extend away from the fabric surface.

19. A fabric according to Claim 18, wherein said plurality of individual fibers are in the form of fiber ends and loops.

20. A fabric according to Claim 1 , wherein said fabric has a pilling rating of greater than 1.0 after 15 minutes when tested according to ASTM Test Method

D3512.

21. A fabric according to Claim 20, wherein said fabric has a pilling rating of about 2.0 or greater.

22. A fabric according to Claim 21 , wherein said fabric has a pilling rating of about 3.0 or greater.

23. A fabric according to Claim 22, wherein said fabric has a pilling rating of about 4.0 or greater.

24. A fabric according to Claim 1 , wherein said fabric has an Appearance Retention rating of greater than 1.0 after 30 washes when tested according to AATCC Test Method 124.

25 A fabric according to Claim 24, wherein said fabric has an Appearance Retention rating of about 2.0 or greater.

26. A fabric according to Claim 25, wherein said fabric has an Appearance Retention rating of about 3.0 or greater.

27. A fabric according to Claim 26, wherein said fabric has an Appearance Retention rating of about 4.0 or greater.

28. A fabric according to Claim 27, wherein said fabric has an Appearance Retention rating of about 5.0.

29. A synthetic chamois fabric having a wicking of about one inch/minute or greater when tested according to Milliken Wicking Test Method.

30. A fabric according to Claim 29, wherein said fabric has a wicking of about

2 inches/minute or greater.

31. A fabric according to Claim 29, wherein said fabric has a wicking of about 2.5 inches/minute or greater.

32. A fabric according to Claim 29, wherein said fabric has a wicking of about

3 inches/minute or greater.

33. A fabric according to Claim 29, wherein said fabric comprises polyester fibers.

34. A fabric according to Claim 29, wherein said fabric consists essentially of polyester fibers.

35. A fabric according to Claim 29, wherein said fabric comprises spun polyester yarns.

36. A fabric according to Claim 29, wherein said fabric consists essentially of spun polyester yarns.

37. A fabric according to Claim 29, wherein said fabric has been hydraulically processed such that a plurality of individual fibers extend away from the fabric surface.

38. A fabric according to Claim 29, wherein said plurality of fibers are in the form of fiber ends and loops.

39. A fabric according to Claim 29, wherein said fabric has a soil release rating of 2.5 or greater when tested according to AATCC Test Method 130.

40. A fabric according to Claim 29, wherein said fabric has a soil release rating of 3.0 or greater when tested according to AATCC Test Method 130.

41. A fabric according to Claim 29, wherein said fabric has a soil release rating of 3.5 or greater when tested according to AATCC Test Method 130.

42. A synthetic chamois fabric having a thermal conductivity of about 5 W/cm°C or less when tested according to Milliken Thermal Conductivity Test Method and an air permeability of less than about 65 cfm when tested according to ASTM Test Method D737.

43. A fabric according to Claim 42, wherein said fabric has a thermal conductivity of about 4.9 W/cm°C or less.

44. A fabric according to Claim 42, wherein said fabric has a thermal conductivity of about 4.7 W/cm°C or less.

45. A fabric according to Claim 42, wherein said fabric has an air permeability of about 50 cfm or less when tested according to ASTM Test Method D737.

46. A fabric according to Claim 42, wherein said fabric has an air permeability of about 40 cfm or less when tested according to ASTM Test Method D737.

47. A fabric according to Claim 42, wherein said fabric has a thermal conductivity of about 4.7 W/cm°C or less when tested according to Milliken Thermal Conductivity Test Method and an air permeability of about 40 cfm or less when tested according to ASTM Test Method D737.

48. A synthetic chamois fabric having an air permeability of about 65 cfm or less when tested according to ASTM Test Method D737 and a drying time of about 4 minutes or less when tested according to Milliken Drying Time Test Method.

49. A fabric according to Claim 48, wherein said fabric has an air permeability of about 50 cfm or less when tested according to ASTM Test Method D737.

50. A fabric according to Claim 48, wherein said fabric has an air permeability of about 40 cfm or less when tested according to ASTM Test Method 737.

51. A fabric according to Claim 48, wherein said fabric has a drying time of about 3 minutes or less when tested according to Milliken Drying Time Test Method.

52. A fabric according to Claim 48, wherein said fabric has a drying time of about 2 minutes or less when tested according to Milliken Drying Time Test Method.

53. A synthetic chamois fabric having an air permeability of about 65 cfm or less when tested according to ASTM Test Method D737 and a Kawabata System shear stiffness of about 1.5 gf/(cm-deg)or less.

54. A fabric according to Claim 53, wherein said fabric has an air permeability of about 50 cfm or less.

55. A fabric according to Claim 53, wherein said fabric has an air permeability of about 40 cfm or less.

56. A fabric according to Claim 53, wherein said fabric has a shear stiffness of about 1 gf/(cm-deg) or less.

57. A synthetic chamois fabric having a thermal conductivity of about 5 W/cm°C or less when tested according to Milliken Thermal Conductivity Test

Method and a Kawabata System shear stiffness of about 1.5 gf/(cm-deg) or less.

58. A fabric according to Claim 57, wherein said fabric has a thermal conductivity of about 4.7 W/cm°C or less.

59. A fabric according to Claim 57, wherein said fabric has a shear stiffness of about 1 gf/(cm-deg) or less.

60. ^" A synthetic chamois fabric having a crease retention rating of about 2.0 or greater when tested according to AATCC Test Method 88C and a % compressibility of about 47% or less.

61. A fabric according to Claim 60, wherein said fabric has a crease retention rating of about 2.5 or greater.

62. A fabric according to Claim 60, wherein said fabric has a crease retention rating of about 3.5 or greater.

63. A fabric according to Claim 60, wherein said fabric has a crease retention rating of about 4.0 or greater.

64. A fabric according to Claim 60, wherein said fabric has a % compressibility of about 45% or less.

65. A fabric according to Claim 60, wherein said fabric has a % compressibility of about 44% or less.

66. A synthetic chamois fabric having a crease retention rating of about 2.0 or greater when tested according to AATCC Test Method 88C and a Maximum Thickness at 50 g of about .63 mm or greater when tested according to the Kawabata System.

67. A fabric according to Claim 66, wherein said fabric has a crease retention rating of about 3.0 or greater.

68. A fabric according to Claim 66, wherein said fabric has a crease retention rating of about 4.0 or greater.

69. A fabric according to Claim 66, wherein said fabric has a Maximum Thickness at 50 g of about .65 mm or greater.

70. A fabric according to Claim 66, wherein said fabric has a Maximum Thickness at 50 g of about .7 mm or greater.

71. A synthetic chamois fabric having a Kawabata System linearity of compression of about .33 or greater.

72. A synthetic chamois fabric according to Claim 71 , wherein said fabric has a Kawabata system linearity of compression of about .37 or greater.

73. A synthetic chamois fabric according to Claim 71 , wherein said fabric has a Kawabata system linearity of compression of about .4 or greater.

74. A method of making a synthetic chamois fabric comprising the steps of: providing a woven synthetic-fiber containing fabric having an initial thickness; treating said fabric with a lubricant; and hydraulically processing said lubricated fabric such that said the thickness of said fabric is increased, and a plurality of fibers extend from the surface thereof, to thereby provide a fabric having a soft durable hand.

75. A method according to Claim 74, further comprising the step of treating the fabric with a pilling reduction treatment, to weaken the synthetic fibers and reduce their tendency to pill.

76. A method according to Claim 74, wherein said step of hydraulic processing is performed such that the Kawabata System T_max thickness of said fabric is increased at least about 50% over its initial Kawabata System T_max thickness.