KR20060093072A - Cross-linked polymers of carbohydrates - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention discloses crosslinked polymers having at least one carbohydrate component comprising at least one primary alcohol function. The polymer may be used in the preparation of a composition which is intended to be applied to the skin to obtain a tensioning and / or toning effect.

Crosslinked polymers, primary alcohol functional groups, carbohydrate components, cosmetic compositions

Description

Cross-Linked Polymers of Carbohydrates

[Patent Document 1] WO 94/18944

[Patent Document 2] French Patent No. 2,766,090 (corresponds to US Patent No. 5,912,016)

[Patent Document 3] French Patent No. 2,780,901 (corresponds to US Patent No. 6,197,757)

[Patent Document 4] WO 03/040216 A1

The present invention relates to the preparation of active ingredients having a tensioning effect, based on various protein or peptide materials, avoiding the problem of allergies due to the materials. The invention also relates to the preparation of crosslinked polymers of carbohydrates.

Cosmetic preparations very often contain substances which allow a characteristic tensioning effect to be induced. This effect makes it possible to improve the perception of the efficacy of cosmetic preparations, in particular by the sensory effects that are significantly perceived by the consumer.

In addition, the tensioning effect is used in preparations in the form of eyes, neck, neckline or hands to allow an immediate but temporary reduction in skin wrinkles on the one hand and to tighten the skin on the other hand.

Among the substances best known for this property, bovine serum albumin or collagen was the molecule most frequently used in the past. More recently, materials developed for this activity are turning towards materials of plant origin, and vegetable proteins have been widely used, particularly for the activity.

That is, for example, the vegetable albumin fraction of cereals or legumes has been the subject of a particularly interesting patent for similarity with bovine serum albumin (WO 94/18944). Similarly, the polymerization of vegetable proteins with difunctional agents has been described for various cosmetic applications. See French Patent 2,766,090 (corresponds to US Pat. No. 5,912,016), and French Patent 2,780,901 (corresponds to US Pat. No. 6,197,757). In addition, materials prepared by the polymerization of hydrolyzed fractions of vegetable proteins have been described and used for tensioning effects in cosmetics (WO 03/040216 A1).

However, the use of proteins in cosmetics is problematic because they can induce allergic reactions at various concentrations which can lead to immune responses and even overall hypersensitivity. Proteins of wheat, nut, hazelnut, peanut, milk origin are a few examples of such proteins that are well known to those skilled in the art as eliciting this immune response.

In the future, it is necessary to take into account that the use of skin-irritating compounds such as proteins in cosmetics may be restricted or prohibited by law.

The prior art does not describe specific solutions that allow one of ordinary skill in the art to alleviate the problem that certain compounds that can be used in cosmetics or medicaments for the tensioning effect can also often cause irritation.

The solution to the novel technical problem particularly aimed at by the present invention is to provide compounds which can obtain a tensioning and / or toning effect at the skin surface in a perceptible manner by the user without causing any identifiable allergic reaction. Is done.

The solution of the technical problem for which the present invention aims is preferably of good biocompatibility, complete biodegradability, complete assimilation, originating from renewable biological materials, which may be present in animal as well as plant systems, and may also be prepared by microbial fermentation. And providing a toning solution described in the starting material which is completely harmless.

The solution of the technical problem aimed at by the present invention also consists in providing a novel process for the preparation of the compound which makes it possible to solve the above mentioned technical problem.

All of these technical problems are solved by the present invention in such a way that they can be used for the first time, satisfactorily, inexpensively, on an industrial scale, in particular on a cosmetic scale.

Surprisingly, the inventors have found that one or more polymers of carbohydrates or carbohydrate derivatives can achieve tensioning and / or toning effects of skin tissue such as human skin.

Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention relates to a crosslinked polymer of at least one carbohydrate comprising at least one primary alcohol function, in particular to a crosslinked polymer obtainable according to the method defined below. The polymer excludes in the form of capsules or spheres, in particular in the form of microcapsules or microspheres, or in the form of nanocapsules or nanospheres, in polymers of at least one carbohydrate comprising at least one primary alcohol function.

According to a second aspect, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, a skin-pharmaceutical composition and / or a pharmaceutical composition comprising a crosslinked polymer as defined above.

According to a third aspect, the present invention also relates to the use of a crosslinked polymer as defined above for the preparation of a composition which is applied to skin tissue of a subject to obtain a tensioning and / or toning effect in said tissue. will be.

As used herein, the term "carbohydrate" refers to carbohydrates and carbohydrate derivatives comprising one or more primary alcohol functional groups.

In the context of the present invention, the tensioning and / or toning effect is determined from the viscosity of the aqueous solution of crosslinked carbohydrates, in particular from the perspective of the applicant's opinion, from the measurement of skin roughness and / or compared to the aqueous solution of non-crosslinked carbohydrates. do.

According to one variant, the invention relates to the use of a crosslinked polymer for the preparation of a composition which is applied to skin tissue of a subject to obtain a reduction in wrinkles and / or fine lines of said tissue.

According to another variant, the present invention relates to the use of a crosslinked polymer for the preparation of a composition intended to be applied to skin tissue of a subject to improve the biomechanical properties of the tissue.

Advantageously, the composition is a cosmetic composition, skin-pharmaceutical composition or pharmaceutical composition intended to be applied to at least one part of the face, especially the contours of the eye, neck, hands, neckline and / or chest.

The product derived from the present invention has a toning effect when applying a composition containing the same to the skin. The products derived from the present invention do not have any appreciable allergic effect when applying such compositions to the skin.

The product of the present invention is adsorbed on the surface of the skin to form a smooth and continuous elastic film. Thus, the filmogenic, tensioning and plasticizing properties of such polymerized carbohydrates, in particular polysaccharides, oligosaccharides and / or polyols, are of particular interest.

Advantageously, the product of the present invention thus has filmogenic and / or plasticization properties.

Preferably, the carbohydrate is selected from any of polysaccharides, oligosaccharides, polyols, and mixtures thereof.

According to a fourth aspect, the present invention relates to a cosmetic care method comprising topically applying a composition as defined above.

Applicants are aware of methods for the polymerization of polysaccharides or oligosaccharides (COLETICA, French Patent No. 2,688,422, US Patent No. 5,562,924). However, this method is an interfacial polymerization method in emulsions for preparing microcapsules and microspheres. Thus, it is not possible to obtain high molecular weight carbohydrate polymers other than in the form of spheres and / or capsules, in particular in the form of microcapsules or microspheres.

Thus, according to a fifth aspect, the present invention comprises preparing a crosslinked polymer of at least one carbohydrate by crosslinking reaction between a primary alcohol function of a carbohydrate and a reactive functional group of a crosslinker in a homogeneous aqueous phase. The method is described.

Preferably, the carbohydrate is selected from any one of polysaccharides, oligosaccharides, polyols, and mixtures thereof.

In a first embodiment, the carbohydrates, in particular polyols and / or oligosaccharides, have a molecular weight of at least 150 g / mol (denoted in g / mol or Dalton or Da in the following), preferably at least 2,000 Da.

Advantageously, in this first embodiment, the molar ratio of carbohydrates, in particular polyols and / or oligosaccharides, to the crosslinking agent is greater than 0.1, preferably at least 1.

In a second embodiment, the molecular weight of carbohydrates, in particular polysaccharides, is at least 50,000 Da, preferably at least 100,000 Da, more preferably at least 300,000 Da. In this case, hydrolysis can be carried out before the crosslinking reaction so that the polymerization reaction can in particular produce a soluble polymer. Methods of hydrolysis of carbohydrates are known to those skilled in the art.

Advantageously, in this second embodiment, the molar ratio of carbohydrates, in particular polysaccharides, to the crosslinking agent is less than 0.1, preferably less than 0.01.

Advantageously, the polysaccharide comprises 0.5 to 4 primary alcohol functional groups per diosidic residue.

Advantageously, prior to the reaction, the carbohydrate is a mixture with excipients which are acceptable via the topical route, in particular cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable excipients.

According to another particular embodiment variant, the concentration of carbohydrates, in particular polysaccharides, oligosaccharides and / or polyols, having a primary alcohol function is from 0.001% to 50%, more particularly from 0.1% to 10% by weight of the aqueous phase. .

Advantageously, the crosslinking agent is a polyfunctional crosslinking agent, i.e. a crosslinking agent comprising at least two reactive functional groups capable of reacting particularly with the primary alcohol functional groups of the carbohydrate, advantageously polycarboxylic acid chlorides, carboxylic acid anhydrides, polyisocyanates, Polythioisocyanate, polyaldehyde, and mixtures thereof.

If the carbohydrate has a high molecular weight, it is preferred to hydrolyze it in a homogeneous aqueous phase before the reaction and then contact it with a crosslinking agent.

Advantageously, the method comprises removing the insoluble compound in the aqueous phase after the crosslinking reaction, if an insoluble compound is present at the end of the reaction.

In certain embodiments, the process dissolves carbohydrates in an aqueous phase, and then crosslinks the carbohydrates with a phase containing crosslinking agents that may or may not be dissolved in alcohols such as ethanol and / or butylene glycol, Contacting for a time sufficient to form a crosslinked polymer of high molecular weight carbohydrate.

As explained in the above paragraphs, the present inventors obtained a polymer of high molecular weight carbohydrate by polymerization in a homogeneous aqueous phase. The method is very advantageous in terms of industrial production, since it reduces the number of reaction steps and the cost of starting materials and also maintains safety for humans.

It was unimaginable that the polymer obtained would have a property known as the "tensioning effect" property.

The invention relates in particular to the use of crosslinked carbohydrates, such as polysaccharides, oligosaccharides and / or polyols, which are crosslinked, in particular via primary alcohol functionality, preferably using polyfunctionalizing agents known to those skilled in the art.

The present invention

1) dissolving a hydrocarbon-rich material, especially polysaccharides, oligosaccharides and / or polyols, in an aqueous phase;

2) polymerizing the carbohydrate by adding a polyfunctionalizing agent (crosslinker) selected as described above; And

3) optionally removing the reaction product that is insoluble (not dissolved) in the reaction medium

It relates to a process for the preparation of carbohydrates, for example polysaccharides, oligosaccharides and / or polyols, comprising a polymerized (or crosslinked) high molecular weight primary alcohol function comprising a continuous step consisting of.

The process of the invention makes it possible to produce polymerized (crosslinked) carbohydrates, in particular polysaccharides, oligosaccharides and / or polyols, which are of particular importance in the cosmetics sector. The polymerized carbohydrates thus obtained are high molecular weight and surprisingly provide perfect skin tolerance.

One advantage of the method of the present invention is a high molar mass molecule capable of producing three-dimensional reticular from which carbohydrate-rich materials such as polysaccharides, oligosaccharides and / or polyols can lead to an improvement in the biomechanical properties of the skin. It allows you to create structures.

Since the degree of crosslinking is not identifiable, it is not easy to provide a definite way of defining the crosslinked polymer according to the invention. For example, we refer to the term "high molecular weight polymer" as a polymer having a substantial portion of the chain having a molecular weight of at least 50,000 Daltons, in particular crosslinked polysaccharides having a molecular weight of preferably at least 150,000 Daltons, more preferably at least 300,000 Daltons. Used as.

Other additional or separate features of the process of the invention are as follows:

Materials rich in carbohydrates, in particular polysaccharides, oligosaccharides and / or polyols, are preferably selected from natural substances of vegetable origin, animal origin and / or biotechnological origin (eg fermentation).

The material is dissolved in the aqueous phase at a rate of 20 g / L to 500 g / L.

According to certain embodiments, the polysaccharides, oligosaccharides and / or polyols having the aforementioned primary functional groups are selected from the group consisting of:

● the following polysaccharides:

Galactomannans, for example guar origins such as Viscogum® (SANOFI), or Lygomme® (Sanopy) or Maypro-Fluor (Meypro) Galactomannans of carob origin sold under the trade name Fleur® or Meyprodyn® (MEYHALL);

From red algae sold under the name Satiagel® or Satiagum® (DEGUSSA) or Genuvisco® (HERCULES). Extracted carrageenan;

Glucomannan from the konjac gum marketed under the trade names Nutricol® (FMC Corporation) or Propol® (FMC SCHIITZU);

Primary alcohols of fermentation origin, such as Xanthane (KELKO), Gellan® (Kelko), Curdlane® (TAKEDA) or hyaluronic acid Polysaccharides having functional groups;

Natrosol (R) 250HHX (AQUALON), Klucel EF (R) (Aqualon), Vivapur (R) (Instel Chimos) Cellulose such as;

Cellulose derivatives such as hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose (aqualon), methyl ethyl cellulose (aqualon), methyl hydroxy methyl cellulose (aqualon) or Blanose® (aqualon);

Polyholoxides such as Dextran®, Dextran T70, T500 or T2000, Dextran sulfate (Pharmacia Fine Chemicals);

Agar, such as food grade agar (Sigma), bacterial agar (Setexam), Monogar M540 agar (Seteksam) or agar QSN5 (Seteksam);

Alginates such as sodium salt of alginic acid A2158 (Sigma), Satialgin® (Degussa) or sodium alginate FD 125 (Danisco);

Amylopectin (Fluka), Amylose (Fluka), Nastar® (Cosucra), Wax Maize starch (Roquette), Waxil Starches such as Waxillis® (rocket), starch derived from wheat (rocket), starch derived from rice (rocket), starch derived from potato (rocket) or starch derived from corn (rocket) ;

Chitosans, such as Kitamer (Unipex);

Cudrans such as Pureglucan® (cold);

Adragant gum or tragacanth gum (Emiga);

Arabian gum or acacia gum (Colin) or Valgum (registered trademark) (Valmar);

Chia gum (Sigma);

Gum elemi (Emiga);

Gelan gum such as Kelcogel® (SPCI);

Gum ghatti or Indian gum (Sigma);

Gum karaya (sigma);

Shellac (Sigma);

Manilla gum (Sigma);

The following oligosaccharides, monosaccharides or disaccharides (commercially available from Sigma unless otherwise indicated):

Cyclodextrins (especially α, β or γ cyclodextrins or derivatives thereof),

Dextrin (Glucidex 40® or Glucidex 47®, rocket);

-Raffinose, cellobiose, sucrose, maltose, lactose, trehalose, dihydroxyacetone (DHA), fructose, sorbose, ribose, deoxyribose, xylose, arabinose, glucose, mannose, galactose, erythrose , Treos, allose, atheros, gulose, idos, talos, erythrulose, xylose, psychos, tagatose, sedoheptulose, xylobiose, chitobiose, nigerose, aminaribis , Cozibiose, sophorose, gentianose, genthiobiose, melibiose, melezitose, turanos, stachiose, verbascose;

Gluconic acid, gluconolactone, glucosamine, galactosamine, galactosamine sulfate, glucosamine sulfate;

Saponins, such as saponins from the bark of quillaya;

Guanosine, uridine;

Streptomycin sulfate;

Riboflavin; And

The following polyols (commercially available from Rocket Corporation unless otherwise indicated):

-Glycerol, sorbitol, erythritol (sigma), maltitol, sorbitol, mannitol, lactitol (sigma), galactitol (sigma), ribitol (sigma), glycerol (sigma), xylitol, miro-inositol, polyethylene glycol Or PEG with varying levels of polymerization, depending on molecular weight.

According to a particular embodiment, the polysaccharides, oligosaccharides and / or polyols having the above-mentioned primary functional groups are gums derived from polysaccharides, celluloses and carbs of xanthan, preferably crosslinked with sebacic acid dichloride or terephthalic acid dichloride. , Xylitol, maltose, carrageenan, raffinose, acacia gum, a mixture of glycerol (eg 10%, w / w) and xanthan (eg 2%, w / w), mannitol (eg 10%, w / w) and inulin (for example 5%, w / w), and mixtures thereof.

According to certain embodiments, the polysaccharides, oligosaccharides and / or polyols having the aforementioned primary functional groups are cross-linked with polysaccharides of xanthan crosslinked with sebacic acid dichloride, cellulose crosslinked with sebacic acid dichloride, and sebacic acid dichloride. Gum derived from carbohydrate, xylitol crosslinked with sebacic acid dichloride, maltose crosslinked with sebacic acid dichloride, carrageenic crosslinked with terephthalic acid dichloride, raffinose crosslinked with terephthalic acid dichloride, crosslinked with terephthalic acid dichloride Acacia gum, a mixture of glycerol (eg 10%, w / w) crosslinked with terephthalic acid dichloride and xanthan (eg 2%, w / w), mannitol crosslinked with terephthalic acid dichloride (eg 10 %, W / w) and inulin (for example 5%, w / w), and mixtures thereof, preferably It is chosen.

According to an advantageous embodiment, the process for the preparation comprises dissolving carbohydrates, in particular polysaccharides and / or oligosaccharides and / or polyols, having a primary alcohol function in the aqueous phase, followed by polymerization between the primary alcohol function of the carbohydrate and the reactive functional groups of the crosslinker. To carry out the crosslinking agent, which may or may not be dissolved in an aqueous phase containing the hydrocarbon and in alcohols such as ethanol and / or butylene glycol, preferably having a functional group capable of reacting with the primary alcohol function of the carbohydrate. The phase containing is characterized by contacting for a time sufficient to obtain a high molecular weight polymerized carbohydrate.

According to an embodiment, which is a variant of the process according to the invention, the crosslinking agent is selected from the group consisting of any of polyhydric chlorides, polyacid anhydrides, polyisocyanates, polythioisocyanates, polyaldehydes and mixtures thereof. As the crosslinking agent, nonreactive moieties that are acceptable to the skin can be advantageously selected, which do not require a separation operation after neutralization of the reaction.

The polyacid chloride is for example chosen from acid trichloride or acid dichloride to form ester linkages.

Advantageously, the weight ratio of crosslinking agent dissolved in alcohol is generally from 5 to 30%, preferably from 10 to 20%.

According to a preferred feature, the crosslinking agent is selected from phthalic acid trichloride, phthalic acid dichloride, sebacic acid dichloride, azelaic acid dichloride, succinic acid dichloride, for example dichlorides or trichlorides of tricarboxylic acids such as citric acid. Polyacid anhydrides are acid dianhydrides such as, for example, succinic dianhydride or maleic dianhydride.

According to another particularly advantageous embodiment of the process according to the invention, the aqueous phase is an alkaline aqueous phase, ie an alkali with a pH greater than 7. Preferred pH ranges are from about 7.1 to about 10. More preferred pH range is 8-10, preferably 8-9. Strong bases such as KOH or NaOH, or weak bases such as ammonia solution, borate, phosphate or carbonate can be used as the base for converting the aqueous phase to basic pH.

The crosslinked polymers of carbohydrates according to the invention are prepared in the form of topical compositions, in particular cosmetic compositions, skin-pharmaceutical compositions or pharmaceutical compositions. The excipients for the composition therefrom are, for example, preservatives, emollients, emulsifiers, surfactants, moisture agents, thickeners, hardeners, matifying agents, stabilizers, antioxidants, texture agents, brighteners. And at least one compound selected from the group consisting of filmogenic agents, solubilizers, pigments, dyes, perfumes and solar filters. Such excipients include amino acids and derivatives thereof, polyglycerols, esters, polymers and derivatives of cellulose, lanolin derivatives, phospholipids, lactoferrins, lactoperoxidases, sucrose-based stabilizers, vitamin E and derivatives thereof, natural and synthetic waxes, Vegetable oils, triglycerides, insaponifiable, phytosterols, plant esters, silicones and derivatives thereof, protein hydrolysates, jojoba oil and derivatives thereof, fat soluble / water soluble esters, betaine, amine oxides, plant extracts, esters of sucrose , Titanium dioxide, glycine and parabens, more preferably butylene glycol, stearet-2, stearet-21, glycol-15 stearyl ether, catearyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, Propylparaben, Butylparaben, Butylene Glycol, Natural Tocopherol, Glycerol, Sodium Dihydroxy Methyl, isopropyl hydroxycetyl ether, glycol stearate, triisononaoin, octyl cocoate, polyacrylamide, isoparaffin, lauret-7, carbomer, propylene glycol, glycerol, bisavool, Dimethicone, sodium hydroxide, PEG 30-dipolyhydroxysterate, capric / caprylic triglyceride, catearyl octanoate, dibutyl adipate, grapeseed oil, jojoba oil, magnesium sulfide, EDTA, cyclomethicone, Xanthan gum, citric acid, sodium lauryl sulfate, broad and mineral oil, isostearyl isostearate, propylene glycol diferargonate, propylene glycol isostearate, PEG 8 beeswax, hydrogenated palm oil glycerides in the core, hydrogenated palm oil glycerides, Lanolin oil, sesame oil, cetyl lactate, lanolin alcohol, castor oil, titanium dioxide, lactose, sucrose, low density polyethylene It is preferably selected from the group consisting of isotonic salt solution.

Advantageously, the abovementioned compositions can be used in aqueous or oily solutions, in particular creams or water soluble gels or fat soluble gels, in particular shower gels, shampoos in pots or tubes; milk; Emulsions, microemulsions or nanoemulsions, in particular water-in-type or oil-in-water or complexes or silicone-containing; Lotions in glass bottles, plastic bottles, measuring bottles, aerosols, in particular; ampoule; Liquid soaps; Skin type bars; Ointment; blowing agent; And preferably in the form selected from the group consisting of anhydride products in the form of liquids, pastes or solids, for example sticks, especially lipsticks.

Other objects, features and advantages of the present invention will become apparent to those skilled in the art upon reading the detailed description, which refers to embodiments, which are given by way of illustration only and not limiting the scope of the invention.

The examples form part of the present invention, and any features believed to be novel with respect to any prior art from the description of the invention, including the examples as a whole, include, by way of example, their functionality and generality thereof. Forms part of it.

Accordingly, all embodiments have a general scope.

In addition, in the examples, unless otherwise indicated, all percentages are by weight and unless otherwise indicated, the temperature is expressed in degrees Celsius, and unless otherwise indicated, the pressure is atmospheric pressure.

<Example>

Example 1 Crosslinking of 2% Xanthan Aqueous Solution and Demonstration of Tensioning Effect on Human Skin

1- Polysaccharides of xanthan (5,000,000 Da) were prepared as follows: 2.10 g of xanthan (KELTROL, SPCI) was cooled and dissolved in 93.1 g of demineralized water. Then 4.8 g of NaHCO ₃ was added to the preparation under strong stirring. After complete dissolution, the pH was stabilized to a value of 8 to 8.4.

Preparation of 2-crosslinker: 0.75 g of sebacic acid dichloride was dissolved in 4.25 g of butylene glycol.

Crosslinking of 3-Xanthan Aqueous Solution: The solution prepared in 2 was added to the solution prepared in 1 under stirring. The entire solution was left under stirring for 60 minutes, resulting in polymerization between the activated diacid on the one hand and the alcohol functional groups of the polysaccharide on the other. This reaction is promoted in basic medium. After the reaction, the crosslinked xanthan solution contains an insoluble substance but can be used as it is. For example, the product can be filtered to remove insoluble matter by filtration on an apparatus comprising a cut-off threshold of 0.22 μm.

4-Principle of Tensioning Effect: In order to describe the biomechanical properties of the skin on the cosmetic effect of the polymerized polysaccharides produced according to the invention, in particular the commercially available "Video Digitizer®" (collage et al. The tensioning effect was measured using a device commercially available from Courage et, Kazaka, which measures the roughness parameter of the skin, which is in the form of "peaks and valleys." Measured by a relief image of the existing skin, the less roughness, the greater the tensioning effect.

Two measurement sites (2 cm x 2 cm) were determined on the upper arm and 50 mg of the solution prepared in 3 was applied to the first site. 50 mg of the non-crosslinked polymer solution was applied to the second site. After drying for 1 minute, the volume parameters were measured using a `` Video Digital Converter® ''. The measurement was repeated 10 times for good homogeneity of the measurements. When measured after treatment, the tensioning effect resulted in a reduction in roughness.

The results are shown in the following table:

This test demonstrated that the product of the present invention can lead to a significant tensioning effect in the skin of healthy volunteers.

Example 2 Crosslinking of 2% Xanthan Aqueous Solution

During Step 1 of Example 1, 1% trisodium citrate was added to the 2% xanthan solution. All other steps were identical. The tensioning effect was similar to the effect obtained in Example 1.

Example 3 Crosslinking of 2% Xanthan Aqueous Solution

During Step 1 of Example 1, 0.4% of (tris [hydroxymethyl] aminomethane) was added to a 2% xanthan solution. All other steps were identical. The tensioning effect was similar to the effect obtained in Example 1.

Example 4 Crosslinking of 2% Xanthan Aqueous Solution

During Step 1 of Example 1, 0.5% disodium phosphate was added to the 2% xanthan solution. All other steps were identical. The tensioning effect was similar to the effect obtained in Example 1.

Example 5 Crosslinking and Sensory Evaluation of Aqueous Cellulose Solution

1- Aqueous solution of cellulose (1,000,000 Da) was prepared as follows: 0.56 g of Natrosol® 250HHX was dissolved in 94.64 g of cooled, demineralized water. Then 4.8 g of NaHCO ₃ was added to the preparation under strong stirring. After complete dissolution, the pH was stabilized to a value of 8 to 8.4.

Preparation of the 2-crosslinker: 1.5 g of sebacic acid dichloride was dissolved in 8.5 g of butylene glycol.

Crosslinking of 3-cellulose aqueous solution: The solution prepared in 2 was added to the solution prepared in 1 under stirring. The entire solution was left under stirring for 60 minutes, resulting in polymerization between the activated diacid on the one hand and the alcohol functional groups of the polysaccharide on the other. This reaction is promoted in basic medium. After the reaction, crosslinked Natrosol® 250HHX solution was used as is.

4- Measuring principle of tensioning effect: Two measurement sites (2 cm × 2 cm) were determined on the upper arm and 50 mg of a cross-linked Natrosol® 250HHX solution was applied to the first site. 50 mg of uncrosslinked Natrosol® 250HHX solution was applied to the second site.

After drying for 1 minute, volunteer panels sensed and recorded the toning sensation.

This test demonstrated that the product of the invention results in a significant tensioning effect that can be detected by sensory evaluation in the skin of healthy volunteers.

Example 6 Crosslinking of Carob Gum (300,000 Da) Aqueous Solution

During step 1 of Example 5, a 5% carob solution, and preferably a 2% carob solution, was prepared. All other steps were identical. The tensioning effect was similar to the effect obtained in Example 5.

Example 7 Crosslinking of Xylitol (152 Da) Aqueous Solution

During Step 1 of Example 5, a 5% xylitol solution was prepared. All other steps were identical. The tensioning effect was similar to the effect obtained in Example 5.

Example 8 Crosslinking of Maltose (342 Da) Aqueous Solution

During step 1 of Example 5, a 20% maltose solution was prepared. All other steps were identical. The tensioning effect was similar to the effect obtained in Example 5.

Example 9a Crosslinking of an Carrageenan Aqueous Solution: Modification of Rheology

1- A solution of carrageenan (Genubisco®, Hercules) (500,000 Da) was prepared as follows: 0.55 g of Genubisco® (Hercules) was added to 94.65 g of deionized water. Then 4.8 g of NaHCO ₃ was added to the preparation under strong stirring. After complete dissolution, the pH was stabilized to a value of 8 to 8.4.

Preparation of the 2-crosslinker: 0.1 g of terephthalic acid dichloride was dissolved in 0.9 g of ethanol.

Crosslinking of the 3-carrageenan aqueous solution: The solution prepared in 2 was added to the aqueous solution prepared in 1 under stirring. The entire solution was left under stirring for 60 minutes, resulting in polymerization between the activated diacid on the one hand and the alcohol functional groups of the polysaccharide on the other. This reaction is promoted in basic medium. After the reaction, the crosslinked carrageenan solution can be used as is or filtered to remove insoluble compounds. The tensioning effect was similar to the effect obtained in Example 5.

Principle of Measuring Viscosity: Viscosity measurement of crosslinked polysaccharide aqueous solution with respect to an uncrosslinked polysaccharide aqueous solution was performed. The viscometer used was a Brookfield RVTDV-II rotary device used at speed 50 and containing needle needle 04.

In addition, the polymerization of carbohydrates resulted in an increase in their molecular weight and an increase in viscosity in the dissolution medium. The degree of polymerization could be measured by examining this increase in viscosity.

Example 9b Crosslinking of Conventional Hydrolyzed Carrageenan Aqueous Solutions

1- A hydrolyzed carrageenan (Genubisco®, Hercules) aqueous solution was prepared as follows: 10 g of Genubisco® (Hercules) was added with 0.1M HCl solution (0.1 mol / liter). ) Into 90 g. Hydrolysis was stopped by hydrolysis at 60 ° C. for 5 hours under moderate agitation and neutralized with 1 M NaOH until pH 8-9 or lower.

Preparation of the 2-crosslinker: 0.1 g of terephthalic acid dichloride was dissolved in 0.9 g of ethanol.

Crosslinking of the 3-carrageenan aqueous solution: The solution prepared in 2 was added to the aqueous solution prepared in 1 under stirring. The entire solution was left under stirring for 60 minutes, resulting in polymerization between the activated diacid on the one hand and the alcohol functional groups of the polysaccharide on the other. This reaction is promoted in basic medium. After the reaction, the crosslinked carrageenan solution can be ultrafiltered to remove salts and then filtered or used as is to remove insoluble compounds. The tensioning effect was much higher than the effect observed in the above example (especially the effect obtained for the product of Example 5).

Example 10 Crosslinking of Raffinose Pentahydrate (594 Da) Aqueous Solution

During step 1 of Example 9, a 10% raffinose solution was prepared. All other steps were identical. The tensioning effect is similar to that obtained in Example 5, but a very pronounced softening effect was recognized by the panels.

Example 11 Crosslinking of Acacia Gum Aqueous Solution

During step 1 of Example 9, a 5% acacia gum (250,000 Da) solution was prepared. All other steps were identical. The tensioning effect was higher than the effect obtained in Example 5.

Example 12 Crosslinking of Aqueous Polysaccharide / Polyol Mixture

During step 1 of Example 9, a solution of glycerol (92 Da) (10%, w / w) and xanthan (2%, w / w) was prepared. All other steps were identical. The tensioning effect is similar to that obtained in Example 5, but a very pronounced softening effect was recognized by the panels.

Example 13 Crosslinking of Aqueous Oligosaccharide / Polyol Mixture

During step 1 of Example 9, a solution of mannitol (182 Da) (10%, w / w) and inulin (about 5000 Da) (5%, w / w) was prepared. All other steps were identical. The tensioning effect is similar to that obtained in Example 5, but a very pronounced softening effect was recognized by the panels.

Example 14 Use of the Product of the Invention in Cosmetic or Pharmaceutical Formulations in Oil-in-Water Emulsion

Formulation 14a :

Formulation 14b :

Formulation 14c :

Example 15 Use of the Product of the Invention in Water-in-Water Type Formulations

Example 16 Use of the Product of the Invention in Formulations in the Form of Shampoo or Shower Gel

Example 17 Use of the Product of the Invention in the Form of Lipstick and Other Anhydride Products

Example 18 Use of the Product of the Invention in the Formulation of an Aqueous Gel (Eye Surround, Slimmer, etc.)

Example 19 Evaluation of Cosmetic Acceptability of a Production Product Containing the Product of the Invention

For the compounds obtained according to Example 2, which were visually evaluated in rabbits, studied for absence of abnormal toxicity by oral administration alone to rats, and studied sensitivity in guinea pigs, incorporated in 10% in 0.5% xanthan gel Toxicology tests were done.

Primary skin irritation evaluation for rabbits:

The skin of three rabbits was applied at a dose of 0.5 mL without dilution of the preparations described above according to the method proposed by the OECD directive relating to the study of “Acute irritation / corrosion effects on skin”.

Products were classified according to the categories defined in the February 1, 1982 ruling, published on February 21, 1982, in the Journal of Pharmacopoeia of the French Republic ("JORF").

As a result of these tests, it was concluded that the preparation containing the compound obtained according to Example 2 was classified as non-irritating to the skin.

Visual stimulus evaluation for rabbits:

In accordance with the method proposed by the directive of OECD No. 405 of 24 February 1987 relating to the study of "Acute irritation / corrosion effects on the eyes", the preparations described above were carried out at a rate of 0.1 mL in batches in pure form. Drop by drop.

As a result of these tests, it was concluded that pure or undiluted preparations in the sense of Directive 91/326 EEC could be considered non-irritating to the eye.

Test for absence of abnormal toxicity by oral administration alone to rats:

Five male rats and five female rats, in accordance with the protocol suggested by the directive of OECD No. 401 of 24 February 1987, per kg body weight in a batch of the preparation product described above and employed as a cosmetic product. Oral administration was at a dose of 5 g.

LD0 and LD50 were found to be greater than 5,000 mg / Kg. Therefore, the tested production product is not classified as one of the dangerous production products when ingested.

Skin Sensitivity Assessment for Guinea Pigs:

The extreme test described by Magnusson and Kligmann was conducted on the preparations described above according to the protocol according to OECD directive line 406.

The preparations described in this example were classified as non-sensitive upon contact with skin.

In comparison, according to the test protocol, commercial wheat proteins crosslinked according to the method of Example 1 resulted in sensitivity to 40% of the animals tested.

According to the present invention, it is possible to obtain a tensioning and / or toning effect on the skin surface in a manner recognizable by the user without causing any identifiable allergic reaction, with excellent biocompatibility, complete biodegradability, complete assimilation, complete harmlessness The composition described in the starting material having the properties and a method for producing the composition can be provided.

Claims (17)

Crosslinked at least one carbohydrate component comprising at least one primary alcohol function, comprising crosslinking at least one primary alcohol function of the carbohydrate component with at least one reactive functional group of the crosslinker in an aqueous phase to obtain a crosslinked polymer of the carbohydrate component. Method of Making Polymers. The method of claim 1 wherein the carbohydrate component is selected from polysaccharides, oligosaccharides, polyols or mixtures thereof. The method of claim 1 wherein the crosslinking agent is selected from polycarboxylic acid chlorides, carboxylic acid anhydrides, polyisocyanates, polythioisocyanates, polyaldehydes or mixtures thereof. The method of claim 1 wherein the carbohydrate component is hydrolyzed in the aqueous phase prior to the reaction and then contacted with a crosslinking agent. The method of claim 1, further comprising removing the compound that is insoluble in the aqueous phase after the crosslinking reaction. A carbohydrate component comprising at least one primary alcohol function is dissolved in the aqueous phase, Then mixing the aqueous phase with a phase containing a crosslinking agent having at least one reactive functional group for a time sufficient to obtain a crosslinked polymer of the carbohydrate component having a molecular weight of at least 50,000 Daltons. A method of making a crosslinked polymer of at least one carbohydrate component comprising at least one primary alcohol function. Crosslinked polymer obtainable by the process according to claim 1. Crosslinked polymer obtainable by the process according to claim 6. The method of claim 7, wherein the carbohydrate component, a)-galactomannan of galactomannan, guar or carob origin Carrageenan, carrageenan extracted from red algae; Glucomannan, glucomannan of konjac gum origin; Polysaccharides, xanthans, hyaluronic acid with primary alcohol functionalities of fermentation origin; -Cellulose, Cellulose component selected from the group consisting of hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose and methyl ethyl cellulose, methyl hydroxy methyl cellulose; Polyholoxide; -Agar; Alginate, sodium salt of alginic acid, sodium alginate; Starch, amylopectin, amylose, starch derived from wheat, starch derived from rice, starch derived from potato, starch derived from corn; Chitosan; Curdlan; Adragant gum or tragacanth gum; Arabic gum or acacia gum; Chia gum; Gum elemi; Gellan gum; Gum ghatti or Indian gum; Gum karaya; Shellac; And Polysaccharides selected from the group consisting of Manilla gums; b)-cyclodextrin, α cyclodextrin, β cyclodextrin, or γ cyclodextrin and any mixture thereof; Dextrins; -Raffinose, cellobiose, sucrose, maltose, lactose, trehalose, dihydroxy cyacetone (DHA), fructose, sorbose, ribose, deoxyribose, xylose, arabinose, glucose, mannose, galactose, erythr Loose, treos, allose, atheros, gulose, idos, talos, erythrulose, xylulose, psycos, tagatose, sedoheptulose, xylobiose, chitobiose, nigerose, aminari Vios, cozibioses, sophoroses, gentianose, genthiobis, melibiose, melezitose, turanose, stachiose, verbascose; Gluconic acid, gluconolactone, glucosamine, galactosamine, galactosamine sulfate, glucosamine sulfate; Saponins, saponins from the bark of quillaya; Guanosine, uridine; Streptomycin sulfate; And A sugar component selected from oligosaccharides, monosaccharides, and disaccharides selected from the group consisting of riboflavin; And c) polyols selected from the group consisting of glycerol, sorbitol, erythritol, maltitol, sorbitol, mannitol, lactitol, galactitol, ribitol, glycerol, xylitol, maze-inositol and polyethylene glycol Crosslinked polymer selected from the group consisting of. 8. The carbohydrate component according to claim 7, wherein the carbohydrate component is a polysaccharide of xanthan crosslinked with sebacic acid dichloride, cellulose crosslinked with sebacic acid dichloride, gum from carabs crosslinked with sebacic acid dichloride, crosslinked with sebacic acid dichloride. Xylitol, maltose crosslinked with sebacic acid dichloride, carrageenan crosslinked with terephthalic acid dichloride, raffinose crosslinked with terephthalic acid dichloride, acacia gum crosslinked with terephthalic acid dichloride, glycerol and xanthan crosslinked with terephthalic acid dichloride And a mixture of mannitol and inulin crosslinked with terephthalic acid dichloride, or a mixture thereof. A composition comprising the polymer according to claim 7 selected from cosmetic compositions, skin-pharmaceutical compositions and pharmaceutical compositions. A composition comprising the polymer according to claim 10 selected from cosmetic compositions, skin-pharmaceutical compositions and pharmaceutical compositions. A method of beauty care selected from the group consisting of tensioning of the skin, toning of the skin, reduction of wrinkles, reduction of fine lines and improvement of the biomechanical properties of the skin, comprising applying the crosslinked polymer according to claim 7 to the skin. A method of cosmetic care selected from the group consisting of tensioning of the skin, toning of the skin, reduction of wrinkles, reduction of fine lines and improvement of the biomechanical properties of the skin, comprising applying the crosslinked polymer according to claim 10 to the skin. The method of claim 13 or 14, wherein the cosmetic care is performed on one or more sites selected from the group consisting of facial, neck, hand, and neckline. A cosmetic care method comprising topically applying a cosmetic composition comprising a polymer according to claim 7. A cosmetic care method comprising topically applying a cosmetic composition comprising a polymer according to claim 10.