KR20060024361A - Cosmetic for depigmentation - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic having a depigmentating and also skin-lightening properties. The cosmetic contains an extract from the surface part of a white orchid, especially the Phalaenopsis amabilis orchid, and cosmetic carrier substances, auxiliary agents, other active substances or mixtures thereof.

Description

Bleach Cosmetics {COSMETIC FOR DEPIGMENTATION}

The present invention relates to cosmetics having a bleaching, ultimately skin whitening effect.

Skin whitening agents and skin whitening methods are already known for whitening the skin by, for example, a mixture of antibacterial substances, alpha or beta hydroxy acids such as glycolic acid or lactic acid or salicylic acid and a pharmaceutically acceptable carrier (WO 01/70189).

WO 98/58628 discloses that kojic acid, ascorbic acid, bilberry extract, mulberry extract, licorice extract, arbutin and mixtures thereof are effective for skin whitening. Whitening agents are used in the form of cosmetic plasters of WO 02/36090.

EP 909161 discloses substituted diphenols in the form of an aqueous silicone gel composition as a skin lightening agent. However, such skin lightening agents do not always have a satisfactory effect.

It is an object of the present invention to provide a novel cosmetic having a skin whitening or decolorizing action.

The novel cosmetic preparations according to the invention are extracts from the above-ground parts of white orchids, in particular Phalanopsis amabilis orchids, as well as conventional cosmetic carrier ingredients and / or auxiliaries and / or other active ingredients. Or mixtures thereof.

In particular, the cosmetics of the present invention contain extracts from certain species of orchids. There are approximately 25,000 to 30,000 orchid species known worldwide. The Phalaenopsis genus alone has about 40 different species in over one hundred different colors. These species are native to tropical Asia in southern India. White egg palenopsis Amarvilis is found in Burma, Bhutan and southern India.

Extracts of the above-ground parts of these plants, that is, leaves, flowers, stems and the like are used. The extract may be water soluble, or an alcohol or water soluble / alcoholic extract. The alcohol used may be a lower monohydric alcohol such as for example ethanol, propanol, isopropanol or mixtures thereof, or a polyhydric alcohol such as for example propylene glycol. Extraction temperature is in the range of 10-40 ° C. The resulting extract is mixed into the cosmetic formulation, for example in liquid form or in solid form after spray drying or freeze drying. In case the extract is mixed in solid form, powder particles having a particle size of between 0.1 and 100 μm are preferred.

Cosmetics of the present invention have keratinogenic activity against the pigmented epidermal cells, thereby causing the colored cells to peel off. In addition, the enzyme tyrosinase is inhibited and tyrosinase is required for each step of the tyrosine to DOPA change in melanin synthesis and consequently the production of melanin is prevented. A small amount of extract on the order of 0.01% by weight was found to exhibit a clear inhibition of melanogenesis.

   The extract may be contained in the cosmetic formulation in encapsulated or unencapsulated form. Encapsulating materials that can be used include known microcapsules, such as those consisting of various types of liposomes or lecithin (phospholipids), carboxymethyl cellulose, and the like.

Preferably, the orchid extract from Palenopsis amabilis is 0.005-5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.01-1% by weight. 0.03-0.05% by weight of the extract was found to inhibit about 30-40% tyrosinase activity, respectively, compared to the control test. This means that it is possible to inhibit tyrosinase activity by up to 60% using a small concentration of white egg extract.

The extract according to the present invention may contain other skin lightening ingredients or mixtures thereof, in particular extract mixtures (from 30: 1 to 5: 1 ratio) obtained from eg Glycyrrhiza glabra and Aspergillus ferment. It can be mixed with plant extracts such as 0.3% by weight and 0.001-0.1% by weight of water-soluble or water-soluble / alcoholic extracts from Astragalus, the weight percentage being relative to the total weight of the cosmetic. In this way, the skin whitening effect is further enhanced.

Another means contributing to the activity of the cosmetic is the addition of other plant extracts, for example kiwi extract in concentrations ranging from 0.5-5% by weight.

Cosmetics of the present invention may contain another active ingredient. Such active ingredients are for example inorganic or organic sunburn agents, free radical scavengers, humectants, emollients, vitamins, enzymes, other plant-based active ingredients, polymers, antioxidants, anti-inflammatory natural active ingredients, WO Oxygen-added asymmetric lamellar aggregates according to 94/00109, products obtained by sonication of yeast or vegetable materials according to WO 94/13738, kaolin and SiO ₂ according to WO 94/17588 Kaolin and the like.

Antioxidants include, for example, vitamin C and derivatives thereof such as ascorbyl acetate, ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl palmitate; Vitamin A and its derivatives; Folic acid and its derivatives; Vitamins such as tocopheryl acetate and vitamins such as derivatives thereof; Flavones or flavonoids; Amino acids such as histidine, glycine, tyrosine, tryptophan and derivatives thereof; Uric acid and its derivatives;

Many compounds can conventionally be used as emollients, for example stearyl alcohol, glyceryl monolycinolate, glyceryl monostearate, propane-1,2-diol, butane-1,3-diol, cetyl Alcohols, isohexadecane, isopropyl isostearate, stearic acid, isobutyl palmitate, oleyl alcohol, isopropyl laurate, decyl oleate, octadecane-2-ol, isocetyl alcohol, cetyl palmitate, dimethylpolysiloxanes Such as silicone oil, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, polyethylene glycol, lanolin, cocoa butter, corn oil, cottonseed oil, vegetable oils such as olive oil, mineral oil, butyl myristate, palmitic acid and the like.

Preferably, the cosmetic composition of the present invention may comprise a suitable water soluble and / or fat soluble UVA or UVB filter or both. Preferred fat-soluble UVB filters include 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives such as 4- (dimethylamino) -benzoic acid- (2-ethylhexyl) ester; Cinnamic acid esters such as 4-methoxy cinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester; Benzophenone derivatives such as 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone; 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives such as 3-benzylidene camphor.

Preferred fat-soluble UV filters are benzophenone-3, butyl methoxybenzoylmethane, isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, octyl methoxycinnamate, octyl salicylate, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor , Homosalate and octyl dimethyl PABA.

Water-soluble UVB filters are, for example, sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenone or 3-benzylidene camphor or salts such as Na or K salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulphonic acid or salicylic acid such as ethylhexyl salicylate. Derivatives.

The UVA filter includes dibenzoylmethane derivatives such as 1-phenyl-4- (4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione and bis-ethyl-hexyloxyphenol / methoxyphenyl triazine.

Other additives particularly useful in the cosmetics of the present invention are at least 90% by weight of proanthocyanidin oligomers, obtained by enzymatic hydrolysis, extracted from the Quebracho blanco skin with high radical protecting factors and up to 10% by weight. Silkworm extract, and silkworm extract obtained by extraction comprising peptide secroffin, an amino acid and vitamin mixture, and a nonionic, cationic or anionic hydrogel or hydrogel mixture, and one or more It is an active preparation containing dog phospholipid and water.

The above-mentioned products, for example active complexes according to Examples 1 or 2 of WO 99/66881 or active complexes in the form of additionally containing superoxide dismutase and cyclodextrins, for example according to WO 01/26617. Can further improve the effect of the composition of the present invention.

Cosmetic preparations of the present invention are commonly used in cosmetic preparations and carriers, for example water, preservatives, colorants, thickeners, flavorings, alcohols, polyols, esters, electrolytes, gel formers, polar or nonpolar oils, polymers, airborne Further including coalescing, emulsifiers, stabilizers and the like. In addition, small amounts of dyes such as iron oxide or titanium dioxide may also be included.

The oil used in the present invention is a mineral oil; Hydrogenated polyisobutene; Squalene or synthetic squalene made from natural products; Branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated cosmetic esters or ethers; vegetable oil; Conventional cosmetic oils such as silicone oils or mixtures of two or more thereof.

Particularly suitable oils are, for example, mineral oils, hydrogenated polyisobutenes, polyisoprene, squalene, tridecyl trimellitate, trimethylpropane, triisostearate, isodecyl citrate, neopentyl glycol Diheptanoate, PPG-15 Stearyl Ether, Cyclomethicone, and Marigold Oil, Jojoba Oil, Avocado Oil, Macadamia Nut Oil, Castor Oil, Malt Oil, Grape Seed Oil, Cucumber Nut Oil, Thistle Oil, Evening Primrose Oil Vegetable oils, such as safflower oil or mixtures thereof. Depending on the oil used, it affects cosmetic properties such as, for example, transparency, softness, spreading effect.

Suitable esters or ethers are, for example, dipentaerythritol hexacaprylate / hexacaprate / tridecyl trimellitate / tridecylstearate / neopentyl glycol dicaprylate dicaprate, propylene glycol dioctanoate 5, Propylene glycol dicaprylate 2, 30 dicaprate, tridecyl stearate / neopentyl glycol dicaprylate dicaprate / tridecyl trimellitate, neopentyl glycol dioctanoate, isopropyl myristate, diisopropyl dimer ) Dilinoleate, trimethylpropane triisostearate, myristyl ether, stearyl ether, cetiaryl octanoate, butyl ether, dicapryylyl ether, PPG1-PEG9 lauyl glycol ether, PPG15 stearyl ether, PPG14 butyl ether , Fomblin HC25, and the like.

In addition, the cosmetics of the present invention may also contain monohydric higher alcohols or polyhydric alcohols (polyols) such as cetiaryl alcohol. Polyhydric alcohols include, for example, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, ethylene glycol, isoprene glycol, glycerin, sorbitol and mixtures thereof. The polyol contains 0.1-40% by weight of the composition, preferably about 5-20% by weight.

Cosmetic compositions containing the active aids according to the invention can be provided, for example, as O / W emulsions or W / O emulsions. Suitable emulsifiers for O / W or W / O emulsions are known, for example, products in which ethylene oxide is added to fatty acids, esters or oils.

The above compositions may also be provided in gel form. Suitable cosmetic gel forming agents include carbomers, xanthan gum, carrageenan, acacia gum, guar gum, agar-agar, alginates and tyrosines, carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, quaternary ( quaternised) specific polyacrylates such as cellulose, quaternary guar, acrylate / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymers, polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinylpyrrolidone.

Cosmetic preparations of the present invention are, for example, sunscreens, sun gels, after-sun products, day creams, night creams, masks, body lotions, cleansing milk, whitening foundations, body powders (containing granular extracts) Can be used. The product may be prepared by methods known in the art.

The present invention will be described in more detail through the following examples. Unless otherwise specified, all amounts are in weight percent.

Example 1 Whitening Cream

Phase A

Water q.s. ad 100

Propylene Glycol 5.0

Phase B

Steareth-2 1.8

Stearide-21 2.0

Cetiaryl Alcohol 2.0

Cyclomethicone 5.5

Phase C

Phase D

Preservative 0.5

White Egg Extract 0.05

(Active ingredient of propylene glycol as extractant *)

Kiwi Extract (Ethanolic) `1.5

Perfume 0.5

1.0 with 1925 radical protective factor (RPF)

Active complexes according to example 1 of WO 99/66881

* The active ingredient comprises about 40% by weight, based on the weight of the palenopsis amarvilis extract.

Phases A and B are prepared separately under stirring and combined by heating to 65 ° C., the mixture, ie phase C, is homogenized for 20 minutes and cooled to 35-40 ° C. Phase D is then stirred together.

Example 2 Skin Whitening Spray

Ethanol 61.5

Water q.s. ad 100

Cyclomethicone 3.0

Disodium EDTA 0.01

Glycerin 4.5

BHT (di-t-butylhydroxytoluol) 0.05

White Egg Extract 0.05

(Active ingredient in ethanol as extractant *)

1.0 with 1925 radical protective factor (RPF)

Active complexes according to example 1 of WO 99/66881

All components are mixed by stirring at 20-25 ° C. until the mixture is homogenized.

* As in Example 1.

Example 3 Anti-Blemish Skin Cover

Phase A

Water q.s. ad 100

Glycerin 3.0

EDTA 0.1

Xanthan Gum 0.8

Phase B

Isopropyl Stearate 2.0

Dicapryl Ether 2.0

Cetiaryl Alcohol 2.0

Cetyl Alcohol 4.0

Phase C

Phase D

White Egg Extract 0.5

(Active ingredient in propylene glycol as extractant *)

1.0 with 1925 radical protective factor (RPF)

Active complexes according to example 1 of WO 99/66881

Iron oxide, black 0.04

Iron Oxide, Sulfur 0.2

Iron oxide, red 0.02

Phase E

Preservative 0.5

Perfume 0.7

* Same as Example 1

Phases A and B are separately prepared under stirring and heated to 70 ° C. and mixed, the mixture forming phase C. Phase C is homogenized for 20 minutes and cooled to about 35-40 ° C. Then phases D and E are stirred in turn. As a result, the mixture is homogenized for 1 hour.

Example 4 Whitening Powders for Face and Body (in Free State)

Talcum 95.3

Perfume 0.5

White Egg Extract (Powder Form) 0.5

Colorant, Bag (TiO ₂ ) 0.2

Iron oxide, black 0.001

Iron oxide, sulfur 0.01

Iron oxide, red 0.05

Each component is mixed in turn under stirring and thoroughly mixed.

Example 5 Consumer Test

Consumer testing was conducted with 60 subjects aged 30-72 years. The test consisted of phases A to D according to Example 1 but was carried out on the basis of the cream according to Example 1 (composition A), in contrast to the base cream (composition B) which did not contain kiwi and white egg extract. .

The test continued for 4 weeks and was evaluated weekly. After 4 weeks, the final evaluation showed the following results.

(Improvement of discoloration) None Slightly Medium Very remarkable

Composition A 0% 6% 27% 64%

Composition B 22% 73% 2% 0%

The test showed that the cream containing the white egg extract of the present invention had a moderate to very significant improvement in depigmentation, ie over 90% of the test participants.

Claims (7)

A decolorizing cosmetic comprising an extract from the above-ground part of a white egg, in particular palenopsis amarvilis orchid, and a cosmetic carrier component, adjuvant, additional active ingredient or mixtures thereof. The cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the white egg extract is contained in an amount of 0.005-5 wt% based on the total weight of the cosmetic. The whitening cosmetic according to claim 2, wherein the white egg extract is included in an amount of 0.01-1% by weight. The method according to claim 1, wherein, as the additional active ingredient, from 0.05-0.3% by weight of the extraction mixture in a ratio of 30: 1 to 5: 1 obtained from Glycyrrhiza glabra and Aspergillus fermentation broth and from Astragalus A water-soluble or water-soluble / alcoholic extract of 0.001 to 0.1% by weight of the plant extract, characterized in that the weight percent relative to the total weight of the cosmetic. The cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the additional active ingredient comprises a UVA filter, a UVB filter or a mixture thereof. The cosmetic according to claim 1, further comprising 0.5 to 5% by weight of kiwi extract based on the total weight of the cosmetic. Use of a cosmetic according to claim 1 to remove or bleach the skin and whiten the skin area.