KR20040074154A - Cosmetic composition containing oldenlandiea diffusae extracts stabilized with liquid crystalsome - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE: A cosmetic composition containing Hedyotis diffusae extract stabilized with liquid crystalsome is provided, thereby improving skin penetration of the Hedyotis diffusae extract, so that skin elasticity can be increased, and wrinkles can be reduced. CONSTITUTION: The cosmetic composition contains 0.01 to 50.0 wt.% of Hedyotis diffusae extract immobilized liquid crystalsome, wherein the liquid crystalsome contains 0.001 to 10 wt.% of Hedyotis diffusae extract, wherein the Hedyotis diffusae extract is prepared by mixing Hedyotis diffusae with solvent selected from methanol, isopropylalcohol, propyleneglycol, and ethanol in a weight ratio of 0.2:1 to 5:1, heating the mixture at 50 to 60 deg. C for 4 to 6 hours, and 80 to 90 deg. C for 6 to 8 hours, extracting and filtering the heated mixture under 40kHz of sonication, concentrating the extract at 600 to 900 mmHg, and treating the concentrated extract with far-infrared rays.

Description

COSMETIC COMPOSITION CONTAINING OLDENLANDIEA DIFFUSAE EXTRACTS STABILIZED WITH LIQUID CRYSTALSOME}

The present invention relates to an anti-aging cosmetic composition containing baekhwasachocho extract.

Liquid crystalsomes are a special kind of liposomes currently used in drug delivery systems to stabilize bioactive components in the pharmaceutical field.

Liposomes are generally made of phospholipids. These phospholipids consist of hydrophobic long hydrocarbon chains and hydrophilic polar groups, and the hydrophobic long hydrocarbons consist of sphingosin derivatives or glycerol derivatives. The other side has ester linkages with choline, ethanol amine, serine, inositol or glycerol. Phospholipids form these regularly arranged structures in the water medium, namely micelles or lamellar structures.

Liposomes are also similar in structure to biological membranes and are being studied as membrane model systems and delivery media of physiological substances (R. Sundler. D. Papahadjpovlos, Biochim. Biophys. Acta, 648.743 (1981)). It is also widely used in cosmetics and food. Such liposomes can be delivered stably without breaking the physiologically active ingredient, and have the advantage of containing both the soluble and water-soluble physiologically active ingredients.

Liposomes are largely divided into multi-lamellar lipicles (MLV) and monolithic liposomes (ULV: Unilamella vesicles), and ULVs can be divided into large uni-lamellar vesicles and small uni-lamellar vesicles. MLV is 400-3500 nm in size and 5-15% of the amount can be contained in liposomes. LUV has a size of 100-1,000 nm, 36-65% of the amount can be contained in liposomes, and SLV has a size of 20-50 nm, and 0.5-1.0% of the amount can be contained in liposomes. The amount of bioactive substances that can be contained is the most LUV but unstable, SLV is the most stable but the amount that can contain less. In addition, the structure of the human skin has a multi-layered structure, so MLV has affinity with the skin, but its size is so large that it is difficult to penetrate the skin.

On the other hand, the liquid crystalsomes have a size of 10-200 nm, are easy to penetrate the skin, can contain excessive amounts of water-soluble components, and are stable. In addition, in the components, liposomes are formed by phospholipids, while liquid crystalsomes form vesicles using lecithin, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, and the like, and contain the bioactive components in the vesicles to form active ingredients. Protects and facilitates penetration into the skin.

People with healthy skin are active biological skin cells. That is, in fibroblasts in the dermis, the synthesis of collagen, which plays an important role in providing elasticity to the skin and suppressing wrinkles, and hyaluronic acid, which is necessary for stimulating metabolism and maintaining moisture in the skin. Glycosaminoglycans (GAGs, Glycosaminoglycans), which contains glycoproteins, are actively synthesized to soften, soften, and moisturize the skin. In the basal cells of the epidermis, binding proteins such as Laminin, Integrin, and Desmosome are produced, which promote cell proliferation and strengthen the binding between skin cells. Keep it.

However, the skin of modern people is exposed to various harmful environments and stresses and suffers various damages. As the skin ages, the physiological activity of the skin decreases and the recovery rate of the damaged skin is slowed, such as dryness, decreased elasticity and wrinkle formation. There are various skin aging phenomena.

Therefore, various cosmetics have been developed to improve such skin aging. Such cosmetics should be prescribed in combination with a sunscreen, a moisturizer for preventing skin aging, an metabolic accelerator.

Baekhwasaolcho is an outpost of the annual herbaceous herb, Oldenlandiea diffusae ROXB., Which belongs to the Rubiaceae family, and grows in the humid foothills in China. It is distributed mainly in Baekunsan and Jeju-do, Jeonnam, and is currently grown in Jinju (primary color clinic, Younglimsa 1986, Korea Plant Book, Hyangmunsa 1982).

The pharmacological action of P. aeruginosa is antimicrobial activity against Staphylococcus aureus, hematopoiesis, etc. in vitro, promotes reticulum endothelial system and leukocyte phagocytosis, and to cells such as acute lymphocytes, granulocytes, monocytes and chronic granulocytes It is known to have a strong inhibitory effect (Jiangsu New Medicine: The Chinese Embassy, Shanghai Science and Technology Press, 754, 1979).

In addition, it has anti-cancer effects against human leukemia and liver cancer cells in vitro and against in vivo Walker-256, cervical carcinoma 14, sarcoma-180 and hepatocarcinoma. It is known (life-savings etc. port kind main walk, business secretary, 20. 1990). It is also known to have a protective effect of various methanol extracts on radioactive wound healing (Yakugaku Zasshi. 1990 Nov; 110 (11): 885-9. Japanese).

Heteroacontane, stigmasterol, ursolic acid, oleanolic acid, β-sitosterol, β-sitosterol-d-glucoside , p-coumaric acid, etc. (Chinese medicinal dictionary, Shanghai Science and Technology Press. 1979. Meng Yanfa et al, Lanzhou Univ, Tongbao 26 (4), 113-116. 1990), the new Irido Oldenlando-sides have been isolated as irridoids (Huang Jai Tung, Arch pharmach. 1981), but the results of clinical studies on skin related to chlorosis have not been found.

It is an object of the present invention to provide an anti-aging cosmetic composition in which baekhwasachocho extract, which has excellent skin elasticity and wrinkle improvement and is easy to penetrate into the skin, is stabilized with liquid crystal.

In order to achieve this object, according to the present invention, the liquid crystals comprising the baekhwasaekcho extract extract containing 0.01 ~ 50.0% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, stabilized baekhwasachocho containing liquid cosmetic composition This is provided.

The present invention is described in detail as follows.

The manufacturing method of the whitening saechocho extract used by this invention is as follows.

White birch starch is mixed with extraction solvent. At this time, it is preferable to mix the solvent: starch in a weight ratio of 1: 0.2 ~ 1: 5, in this case, not only the anti-aging effect is evenly shown but also the maximum synergistic effect.

As the extraction solvent of the baekhwasachocho outpost, alcohols such as methanol, isopropyl alcohol, propylene glycol, ethanol, purified water and the like can be used. Among them, it is preferable to use 50% 1,3-butylene glycol aqueous solution which has an antiseptic effect and can minimize the loss of vegetable polysaccharides.

Subsequently, it is heated for 4 to 6 hours at 50 to 60 ° C., and then extracted and filtered under ultra-high pressure reduction in a 40 kHz frequency range while heating at 80 to 90 ° C. for 6 to 8 hours again to obtain an extract.

This is concentrated again to a concentration of 20 ~ 30% solids at a pressure of 600 ~ 900mmHg in a vacuum concentrated flask, and then subjected to far-infrared treatment.

In the far-infrared treatment, it is preferable to inject far-infrared light by leaving it for 24 hours in an elvan container known to emit far-infrared rays having a wavelength of 10 ⁴ to 10 ⁶ nm.

As such, by going through the process of far-infrared radiation, such as aging in a far-infrared radiation elvan rock container, it is possible to increase the activity of the active ingredient to obtain excellent effects on the stability of preservatives and raw materials and skin safety.

In order to protect and stabilize the baekhwasachocho extract components such that it is easy to penetrate the skin is contained in the liquid crystal.

In the present invention, the size of 10 ~ 200nm, easy to penetrate the skin, and can contain an excess of water-soluble components, while using a stable liquid crystal.

These liquid crystals are prepared using a ceramide, hydrogenated lecithin, cetearyl alcohol, glyceryl monostearate, stearic acid, sphingolipid derivative, phytosterol, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and then a vesicle (base). It is prepared by adding whitening and turmeric extract to the vesicle and homogenizing while adding water and emollient (cyclomethicone, cetyloxanolate) in this order.

At this time, ceramide, hydrogenated lecithin, cetearyl alcohol, glyceryl monostearate, stearic acid, sphingolipid derivative, phytosterol, linoleic acid, linolenic acid is 10 to 50% by weight based on the total weight of the liquid crystal It is contained in the amount of%, Preferably it is contained in 30 to 40 weight%. If the components are more than 50% by weight, the viscosity is too high to apply to the product, if less than 10% by weight, the viscosity is low and the particles are unstable and the stability of the product is excessively lowered.

The vesicle is prepared by heating the ceramide, hydrogenated lecithin, cetearyl alcohol, glyceryl monostearate, stearic acid, sphingolipid derivative, phytosterol, linoleic acid, linolenic acid to 80 ~ 85 ℃ completely mixed. .

It is preferable to add the whitening snow extract extract in an amount of 0.001 to 10% by weight, particularly preferably 0.5 to 5.0% by weight based on the total weight of the whitening snow extract extract containing liquid crystals. If it is less than 0.001% by weight, it is less effective when applied to the product, and if it exceeds 10% by weight, the active ingredient may come out without entering the liquid crystal base.

The liquid crystals obtained by stabilizing the white birch extract can be added to anti-aging cosmetics such as nourishing lotion, nourishing cream, essence, etc., it is preferred to add 0.01 to 50.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. If it is less than 0.01% by weight, the efficacy is too small, and if it is more than 50.0% by weight, the feeling of use as a cosmetic is poor, which is not suitable for use in thin products such as lotions.

The following Examples, Comparative Examples, Preparation Examples, and Test Examples are provided to explain the present invention in more detail, and the scope of the present invention is not limited thereto.

(Example 1)

Preparation of Pear Blossom

Baekhwasacho outpost was dried until there was no change in weight and then mechanically ground. Crushed 600 g of 50% 1,3-butylene glycol was added to 100 g, followed by heating at 50 ° C. for 4 hours, followed by extraction for 6 hours at a high temperature of 85 ° C., extracted under ultra-high pressure reduction in a 40 kHz frequency region, and 400 mesh. Filtered through a sieve. This was concentrated again to a concentration of about 30% solids at a pressure of 600 ~ 900mmHg in a concentrated flask under reduced pressure, and left for 24 hours in an ganban stone vessel to prepare a baekhwasachocho extract.

(Example 2)

Preparation of Liquid Crystal Stabilized Staple Flower Extract

The A phase of the following Table 1 was measured, it heated to 80-85 degreeC, melt | dissolved and mixed completely, and then cooled while stirring gradually, and obtained solid shape (vecicle). The obtained solid base was heated to about 70 ° C. to dissolve, and then, while gradually adding the chlorophyll extract (B phase) of Example 1, the B phase was allowed to enter into the A phase. Phase D was added thereto and homogenized while raising the temperature to about 70 ° C. Subsequently, the C phase was raised to 70 ° C. and homogenized while gradually being added to the mixture of A, B and D phases. The components of the liquid crystalsomes stabilized in the sapflower extract extracted in this way are shown in Table 1 below.

(Comparative Example 1)

Preparation of liquid crystal

Except not adding phase B, a liquid crystalsome was prepared in the same manner as in Example 2.

(Manufacture example 1 and comparative manufacture examples 1, 2, 3)

Cosmetic composition containing the liquid crystal bite which stabilized the chlorosis extract extracted in Example 2 (Manufacturing Example 1), the cosmetic composition containing the liquid crystal bit of Comparative Example 1 and the chlorosis extract of Example 1 separately (comparative example 1) , A cosmetic composition (Comparative Preparation Example 2) containing only the liquid crystal bit of Comparative Example 1 and a cosmetic composition (Comparative Preparation Example 3) not containing all of the liquid crystal bit and whitening flower extract were prepared. The composition is shown in Table 2 (unit: wt%).

(Manufacture example 2)

The nutrition cream of the following composition was prepared.

(Manufacture example 3)

The nutrient lotion (lotion) of the following composition was prepared.

(Manufacture example 4)

The concentrated cosmetic water (essence) of the following composition was prepared.

(Test Example 1)

Skin penetration effect

The skin penetrating effect of the cosmetic containing the liquid crystals stabilized white baeksasachocho extract according to the present invention was measured by the following method.

DE (Dermal Equivalent) 1x10 ⁵ cells / ml of normal human fibroblasts, 3mg / ml collagen aqueous solution: 5X DMEM: 2.2% sodium bicarbonate and 200mM Hepes buffer in collagen gel structure similar to the fibrous tissues Inoculated in a medium mixed with 7: 2: 1 of 0.05 N sodium hydroxide, and incubated for 7 days at 5% CO ₂ , 37 ° C.) with a membrane made of 3 μm porous polycarbonate. Inoculate 1 × 10 ⁵ cells / ml of epidermal Keratinocytes on the surface of the DE where the fibroblasts were cultured, and put K-SFM medium containing EGF and BPE inside and outside. Incubated for 7 days. Subsequently, the medium inside the plate was removed to allow air to come into contact with the surface of the cultured cells, followed by incubating for 2 weeks in a medium in which K-SFM containing 10% FBS and DMEM without EGF were mixed in the same amount. , Artificial skin with multilayer epidermis and dermis was obtained. Here, Preparation Example 1 and Comparative Preparation Examples 1 to 3 of the present invention were applied to the artificial skin tissue of the top layer. After 4 hours of incubation, the amount of the complex extracts that penetrated the epidermis and dermis of artificial skin in the same amount of K-SFM containing 10% FBS and DMEM without EGF was analyzed by HPLC. The test results are shown in Table 6 below.

In the above Table 6, the cosmetic containing liquid crystals stabilized white baeksasachocho extract according to the present invention It can be seen that the penetration effect was about 6 times higher than that of Comparative Preparation Example 1 using the white chlorosis extract and the liquid crystal. As a result, the average particle size of the liquid crystal fragment of the present invention is very small to 100nm or less, it can be seen that the skin penetration is easy.

(Test Example 2)

Skin elasticity enhancing effect

40 healthy women (mean age 29.5 years old) over 20 years old were divided into 4 groups under the conditions of 22 ~ 24 ℃ and 55% relative humidity. In Preparation Example 2, Group D, Comparative Preparation Example 3 was formulated and applied for 12 weeks (2 times / day) around the eyes, respectively, using a skin elasticity measuring instrument (Cutometer SEM 575, C + K Electronic Co., Germany). Skin elasticity was measured. The test results are described in Table 6 below as ΔR5 values (R5 (12 weeks) -R5 (0 weeks)), which are average values for each test group of the Cutometer SEM 575. The closer it is, the better the elasticity is.

In addition, the improvement degree was computed by the following formula.

Improvement (%) = (△ R5 / Before Application) X 100

The calculation results are shown in Table 7 below.

In Table 7, the skin elasticity when using Preparation Example 1 containing the liquid crystals stabilized white bisulfite extract was 19.5% compared to Comparative Preparation Example 1, 21.87%, 20.79% compared to Comparative Preparation Examples 2, 3, respectively Increased. Therefore, it can be seen that the liquid crystals containing the baekhwasachocho extract according to the present invention effectively promotes skin elasticity.

(Test Example 3)

Formulation Stability Test

Stability of the formulation for the cosmetic containing the liquid crystals stabilized Baeksa Sasachocho extract according to the present invention was measured by the following method.

Samples stored in an opaque vitreous container in a constant temperature bath maintained at 45 ° C. in Preparation Example 1 and Comparative Preparation Examples 1 to 3 were stored in a opaque glass container in a completely shaded refrigerator kept at 4 ° C. for 12 weeks. The separation and discoloration degree of the sample stored for 12 weeks and the sample stored for 12 weeks in a circulation chamber circulating at -5 ℃ to 37 ℃ was measured. The results of the evaluation of product separation and discoloration graded into the following six grades are shown in Table 8.

Product discoloration evaluation criteria:

0: no change 1: very little separation (discoloration)

2: Separate slightly (discolored) 3: Separate slightly (discolored)

4: severely separated (discolored) 5: extremely severely separated (discolored)

Through Table 8, Preparation Example 1 and Comparative Preparation Example 3 stabilized through the liquid crystalsome was stable at 45 ℃, without discoloration or separation symptoms in the circulating test, it was used directly in the formulation without stabilizing Baekhwasajeol extract liquid crystal Comparative Preparation Examples 1 and 2 were found to be unstable due to discoloration at 45 ° C. and circulation test, respectively.

(Test Example 4)

Clinical wrinkle improvement

Human history studies were conducted on subjects who met the selection criteria and did not meet the exclusion criteria through medical history examination and physical examination of the test site.

For five women aged 35 to 48 years with wrinkles around their eyes, Preparation Example 1 was applied twice daily for 12 weeks. After the end of the test period, the images of the wrinkled eyelids were compared and read, and the global photodamage score (global photodamage) was determined based on the degree of improvement of wrinkles (Arch Dermatol vol. 137 (8): 1043-1051, 2001). score).

Global Photo Damage Score:

0: None 1: None / Weak

2: weak 3: weak / normal

4: moderate 5: moderate / severe

6: severe 7: very severe

The results are shown in Table 9 below.

In the above Table 9, when applying the cosmetic containing the liquid crystals stabilized white birch vinegar extract, skin wrinkles were significantly improved compared to before application. Therefore, it can be seen that the whitening sapchocho extract containing cosmetics stabilized with the liquid crystalsome according to the present invention is effective for improving wrinkles of human skin.

(Comparative Production Examples 4 and 5, and Production Examples 5 to 9)

The cosmetic composition was prepared by varying the content of the liquid crystalsomes stabilized Whitening Saechocho extract obtained in Example 2. The composition is shown in Table 10 (unit: wt%).

(Test Example 5)

Skin penetration effect

The cosmetic compositions of Comparative Preparation Examples 4 and 5 and Preparation Examples 5 to 9 were tested for skin penetration effects in the same manner as in Test Example 1, and the results are shown in Table 11 below.

(Test Example 6)

Skin elasticity enhancing effect

Comparative Examples 4 and 5 and the cosmetic compositions of Preparation Examples 5 to 9 were tested for the skin elasticity enhancing effect in the same manner as in Test Example 2, the results are shown in Table 12 below.

(Test Example 7)

Formulation Stability Test

The cosmetic compositions of Comparative Preparation Examples 4 and 5 and Preparation Examples 5 to 9 were tested for stability of the formulation in the same manner as in Test Example 3, and the results are shown in Table 13 below.

In Tables 11 to 13, when containing less than 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic liquid stabilized white birch vinegar extract liquid skin penetration effect, skin elasticity effect and stability is too small, exceeding 50.0% by weight In the case of containing, since the formulation is unstable and separation and discoloration occur, it was found that 0.01 to 50.0% by weight is preferable.

According to the present invention, by embedding and stabilizing Baeksasulcho extract extract in the liquid crystal bite, liquid permeation is very easy to penetrate into the skin, and excellent anti-aging effect according to skin elasticity enhancement and wrinkle improvement, stabilized Baeksasangcho extract extract A cosmetic composition containing a moth can be obtained.

Claims (2)

A liquid crystal bit comprising a baekhwasachocho extract, 0.01 ~ 50.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, stabilized baekhwasachocho containing liquid cosmetic composition. The method of claim 1, The baekhwasachocho extract is characterized in that contained in 0.001 ~ 10% by weight relative to baekhwasachocho containing liquid crystals, baekhwasachocho containing liquid composition stabilized with liquid crystals.