KR20040065569A - Cosmetic composition comprising a fatty acid material and preparation method therefor - Google Patents

Abstract

(a) providing a cosmetic container; (b) providing to the vessel an effective amount of fatty acid material having a melting point in the range of 40 ° C. to 80 ° C., and other ingredients necessary to form a substantially anhydrous fatty acid soap material; (c) providing sufficient heated water to the vessel so that substantially all fatty acid material is solubilized to provide fatty acid soap material; And (d) agitating the contents of the container, the method of making a topical base composition for use in the preparation of a topical skin care composition. Also claimed is a container comprising an additional component which is an anhydrous composition, base or soap according to (b).

Description

Cosmetic composition containing fatty acid substance and its manufacturing method {COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A FATTY ACID MATERIAL AND PREPARATION METHOD THEREFOR}

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition and a method for producing the same. In particular, it relates to a base composition which can be used in cosmetic compositions such as skin and vanishing creams, which can be produced quickly by the user, for example.

Cosmetic compositions such as skin creams or lotions and vanishing creams are known. Typically, such compositions are prepared on an industrial scale in a central manner using large scale devices. In this typical manufacturing process, for the production of products that are typically emulsions, the additional melting components are typically heated in a large vessel (typically around 80 ° C) until they melt, stirring, and further stirring with continued stirring and cooling. Is added to the composition. The last of these components is often a perfume and may typically be added when the composition is around 40 ° C. The composition is then cooled and administered to a retail container. Typically, the shear time and speed used in this method affect the droplet size of the emulsion formed. WO-A-91 / 07943 discloses a typical industrial process for mixing all components with water to form a stable oil in water emulsion.

There may be many problems with large scale manufacturing methods as described above. The most significant of these is that it is typically difficult to personalize or consumerize a product that can only provide a relatively small number of products to the consumer. An example of this difficulty is the time and cost associated with changing a product on a manufacturing line, as it is necessary to fully clean manufacturing devices, especially large scale manufacturing devices, between manufacturing runs of various products, This makes it difficult to manufacture many different products in a line.

For these reasons, when the product is a consumerized or individualized product, and the batch of a particular product is relatively small, the cost of the product is relatively high.

In addition, typical skin cream compositions may easily comprise 60-90% water. As mentioned above, water accounts for most of the topical product weight. Therefore, it accounts for most of the shipping costs from the manufacture of these commercial products to the retail.

GB-A-633065 mixes saponifiable fats or fatty acids with alkaline solution, heats and stirs to approximately 90 ° F., further heats to 300-500 ° F., and maintains this temperature until a dry powder-like material is formed. A method of holding is disclosed. This method is energy and time consuming and requires fatty acids and bases to react before the base composition is formed. Due to the inefficiency of this method, this method is currently unsuitable for use.

US-A-1,500,276 discloses the preparation of a base in the form of an oily substance containing finely and uniformly dispersed neutral soaps, water and free fatty acids. This material contains water and has a jelly-like consistency. This initial base mixture is dependent on the presence of water and the jelly formed does not usually have the desired firmness when used in the preparation of the cosmetic composition in an efficient and immediate manner.

In addition, in many countries with relatively low income levels, consumers often do not have the capacity to purchase large amounts of cosmetics. Therefore, there is a great demand for cosmetic compositions that are provided in relatively small doses, provided they are available at a relatively low cost.

In addition, another problem associated with topical products is the instability of some of the more preferred components of the product. One example of such a component is retinol. Because retinol is relatively unstable, a situation arises where a product comprising retinol may have a relatively short shelf life, or the functionality of the retinol may be degraded during the shelf life of the product. When the topical compositions include components that are unstable, it would be advantageous if these compositions could be freshly prepared.

The inventors of the present invention particularly provide a method of preparing the composition suitable for short time (eg moisture) production of relatively small amounts of a topical application for skin application (eg skin creams, lotions, vanishing creams, sun tan lotions, moisturizers, etc.). Found.

In the broadest aspect, this facilitates the preparation of the base composition, especially in small amounts, so that it can be readily used to provide all cosmetic compositions, in particular topical skin care compositions. By adding suitable active and emotional ingredients, the base composition can be readily consumerized to provide a topical skin care composition as required by the consumer. Such “small scale” manufacturing may include small scale industrial manufacture by the manufacturer, or the consumer reconstructing a small amount of topical product from the concentrate.

Although it is highly desirable to use the base composition on a small scale, it can also be readily used for efficient larger scale methods such as industrial scale.

Therefore, according to the first aspect,

(a) providing a cosmetic container;

(b) providing to the vessel an effective amount of fatty acid material having a melting point in the range of 40-80 ° C., and any other ingredients necessary to form a substantially anhydrous fatty acid soap material;

(c) providing sufficient heated water to the vessel so that substantially all fatty acid material is solubilized to provide fatty acid soap material; And

(d) stirring the vessel contents

Provided is a method of making a base composition for use in the manufacture of a cosmetic composition, in particular a topical skin care composition, comprising forming a cream or lotion base.

The method for providing an effective amount of fatty acid soap material in a container can take a number of different forms.

In one embodiment, the fatty acid soap material may be provided to the container by simply pre-administering the mixture of soap and fatty acid material into the container. Fatty acid soap substances are formed upon addition of hot water. In a further preferred embodiment, the fatty acid soap material may be provided from an unreacted mixture of fatty acid material and an effective amount of a suitable organic or inorganic base previously administered to the container. When hot water is added to this mixture, fatty acid soap substances are formed by partial saponification of fatty acids.

As used herein, "solubilization" means a possible combination of dissolution and / or melting of fatty acids.

The method of providing “heated water” to the container can also take various forms. In the simplest aspect, heated water can be provided by simply administering hot (eg, boiling) water to the container. However, other methods are also envisioned, and in particular, it is envisioned to apply electromagnetic energy (for example, home microwave oven) or ultrasonic waves as a heating and mixing source after the cold water is administered to the container.

One advantage of the claimed method is that water is added only after the base comprising the fatty acid soap material is formed. Therefore, the composition in the container in step (b) is essentially anhydrous, thus enabling low cost transportation and long term storage.

Conveniently, the essentially anhydrous composition in the container is a simple mechanical mixture and may be in the form of tablets, powders or amorphous materials. Therefore in another form of the invention there is provided anhydrous compositions in the form of tablets, powders or amorphous materials for use in the container for use according to the invention. Such anhydrous compositions may be provided separately in a container in which the preparation of the composition is carried out. Each anhydrous composition may be packaged separately.

If the container is a cosmetic container, and the consumer performs the manufacture of the individual parts of the skin care composition, it will be necessary to seal the cosmetic container before stirring. Such cosmetic containers may preferably have a volume of 20-250 ml, more preferably 25-100 ml, even more preferably 25-50 ml.

Even so, the contents of such vessels (eg, water, base materials and other ingredients necessary to prepare the topical composition) do not occupy more than 50% of the vessel volume, providing sufficient space for complete mixing of the contents during stirring. It is desirable to.

The optimum size and shape of the container can be easily determined by routine simple experiments. However, the optimal vessel will provide rapid and complete solubilization of fatty acid material by heated water, but heat will be lost rapidly. This second property is ideally important because the stirring of the container continues until the contents of the container are "cured", ie they do not readily splash around the container during shaking.

The dimension of the "container" may be important to ensure that complete solubilization of the fatty acid material occurs. If an embodiment of the present invention is to provide a consumer with a container comprising anhydrous base ingredients and other ingredients essential to the topical skin composition, the dimensions and size of the container will be important. However, the present invention is also suitable for (small) industrial production, so that "containers" and their dimensions can be related to a suitable mixing chamber in either a batch or continuous mixing device. In particular, in addition to the preparation of the individual compositions according to the invention at home by the user, the invention also finds use in mobile vending machines which are common in shops and hairdressers, for example using test fixture machines, and in many fields around the world. It is also suitable for the (small) production of the composition. According to a further aspect of the present invention there is provided a resealable cosmetic container containing a fatty acid material having a melting point in the range of 40 ° C. to 80 ° C., and an anhydrous composition comprising an organic or inorganic base.

According to a further aspect of the invention, there is also provided a resealable cosmetic container containing an anhydrous composition comprising a mixture of soap and a fatty acid material having a melting point in the range of 40 ° C to 80 ° C.

"Anhydrous" as used herein means less than 5% by weight of water, preferably less than 2% by weight of water, even more preferably less than 1% by weight of water and ideally less than 0.5% by weight of water. do.

The methods and packaged compositions of the present invention provide a very effective method for preparing a skin composition base for topical application, which base material can be used with such additional ingredients or additives as may be necessary to provide rapid small scale preparation and the desired effective topical composition. Suitable for both consumerization. The additional ingredients essential for the formulation of the final topical composition may conveniently be pre-administered to the container together with (but not necessarily) fatty acid material and other fatty acid soap ingredients.

It is preferable to remotely place the base composition formed in step (b) before adding water to form a lotion or cream base. If the composition of step (b) is used in a (small) industrial process, the composition can be stored on its own, used in other methods and shipped in a separate container to continue with step (c).

While not wishing to be bound by theory, the heated hot water is provided to a mixture of ingredients comprising a fatty acid material to provide a fatty acid soap material, wherein the fatty acid soap material mixed with water is a cream having desirable physical and rheological properties, or It is believed that the essence of the present invention lies in providing a base for lotions. In practicing the present invention, the amount and temperature of heated water added to the vessel should be sufficient to allow substantially all of the fatty acid material in the vessel to be sufficiently melted (melted) or dissolved. This facilitates the formation of a suitable crystal structure, providing a base with the desired rheological properties.

In particular, there is provided a relatively compact container which can readily melt (melt or dissolve) substantially all fatty acid material by using only heated water, and secondly, the components of the topical composition may be subjected to special shear devices. The small scale nature of the present invention is important and therefore desirable because it can be sheared by methods that are not needed (eg, shaking). Third, the cooling rate of the product is fast, without the use of complicated devices.

This may, in certain embodiments, be possible or indeed desirable to use a shearing device.

A further important aspect of the present invention is in determining and using the relative amounts of fatty acid soap substances and water components which ensure the formation of the so-called "fatty acid soap substance". Fatty acid soap materials have a different structure from fatty acid materials or soaps. A "pure" fatty acid material is thought to have a two-layered structure that is tightly compressed so that water cannot easily penetrate the two layers. This causes fatty materials to be less soluble in water. Fatty acid soap materials also have a two-layer structure, but the spacing between the two layers is relatively wide, so that water molecules can more easily penetrate between the two layers, solubility. Will be raised.

The partially hydrated fatty acid soap material formed provides the desired rheological properties for the formed base product, which properties can be adjusted, in particular, by changing the relative amounts of starting ingredients, ie the relative amounts of fatty acid material and soap in the fatty acid soap material.

There are other ways in which the final properties of the compositions according to the invention can be manipulated. For example, in one contemplated aspect, it has been found that the cosmetic product formed is slightly harder than the other if the container is subjected to ultrasound as part of the stirring step.

In order to ensure proper formation of crystal structure and sufficient melting / dissolution of fatty acid soap material components, and also to prevent premature reaction, it is preferred that the components of fatty acid soap material are substantially anhydrous before providing heated water. Once the heated water is provided to the vessel, stirring of the water and fatty acid soap material components is required for homogeneity. If the container is a resealable container in which the consumer will make individual portions of the skin composition, the sealed container is shaken and easily stirred, in which case sufficient agitation must be provided.

Conveniently, the vessel is stirred for at least 10 seconds, more preferably at least 20 seconds, even more preferably at least 30 seconds. Conveniently, stirring may continue for at least 5 minutes. Conveniently, stirring is continued until at least the contents do not splash around the vessel during stirring.

It is also important to use a temperature and amount of heated water sufficient to melt (melt or dissolve) substantially all of the fatty acid material in the vessel. The required minimum temperature of the hot water will depend in particular on the amount of water used, but the heated water is typically at least 80 ° C, preferably at least 85 ° C, more preferably at least 90 ° C, even more preferably at least 95 ° C. Will even have boiling water.

In embodiments in which the soap component of the fatty acid soap material is formed in place, in particular when the components are fatty acid materials and bases, the degree of saponification of the fatty acid material can be controlled by controlling the ratio of fatty acid material to base and the amount of water added. Depending on the ratio of non-neutralized fatty acid material to soap and the amount of water present, it is possible to control the crystal phase structure of the resulting mixture, which has been found to be a particularly suitable base material for topical skin compositions. Essential components of the present invention are fatty acid substances. A "fatty acid substance" may comprise a blend of fatty acids, typically containing fatty acid residues of chain length C ₈ to C ₂₂ . Fatty acid materials may also contain fatty acid residues having a relatively pure amount of one chain length. Suitable fatty acids that can form fatty acid soaps include pelagonate, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, ricinoleic acid, arachidcin, behenic acid and erucic acid. It includes. Although usually saturated, suitable fatty acid materials may contain unsaturated fatty acid residues and may contain fatty acid residues having some degree of substitution, for example hydroxy fatty acids. The melting point of the individual fatty acids is relatively insignificant and most importantly, the total melting point of the fatty acid material should be in the range of 40 ° C to 80 ° C.

In certain preferred embodiments, the fatty acid material will comprise relatively large amounts (eg, at least 50%, preferably at least 75%) of stearic acid and / or palmitic acid residues. Since an important aspect of the invention is that the fatty acid material must be completely melted and dissolved in the provision of the heated water, the chain length of the fatty acid material used according to the invention affects the required minimum temperature of the heated water used in the invention. Will go crazy. However, the chain length of the fatty acid substance component also determines the rheological properties of the skin composition base formed. Fatty acid material mixtures comprising relatively high proportions of stearic and palmitic acid residues have been found to be particularly suitable for use in preparing skin creams and lotions that can be used in temperate to tropical climates. However, fatty acid soap material mixtures containing fatty acids residues with relatively large lower chain lengths (eg, greater than 50% fatty acid residues have a chain length of C ₈ -C ₁₄ ) are also used in relatively cold climates. It may be suitable for the preparation of skin compositions.

Topical cosmetic compositions according to the invention typically have a pH in the range of 6-9, preferably 6.5-8.

In certain embodiments, a further important component of the invention is the base material. Suitable bases can be organic or inorganic. Preferred bases include inorganic bases such as hydroxides such as sodium or potassium hydroxide, and organic bases such as triethanolamine. It has been found that the form of base used may affect the sensory properties of the cream or lotion that is formed.

The amount of base added to the composition will be such that a satisfactory cream or lotion base composition can be provided when heated water is provided. The amount of base added is typically to provide partial saponification of the fatty acid material so as to form a fatty acid soap material, and the rheological properties of the base composition formed can be adjusted according to the amount of base added.

The base composition formed according to a preferred embodiment of the present invention contains both non-neutralized fatty acid materials and soaps in fatty acid soap materials, with careful control of the ratio of these two materials to optimize physical and sensory properties. Cosmetic bases comprising fatty acid soap materials that contain too much fatty acid, or too little soap, will typically be too hard to apply to the skin and are in the form of a cream that is not a viscous form, but rather a fluid. It will have a stiff texture. However, if the amount of soap in the base composition is too high or too little fatty acid material, it will have a too sticky texture.

Typically, the components of fatty acid soap materials have a weight ratio of soap to fatty acid material after being provided with heated water from 1: 1 to 1:20, more preferably from 1: 2 to 1:10, even more preferably from 1: 5. And adjusted to provide an acid soap composition that is from 1:10. In certain embodiments, particularly suitable skin care composition bases have been achieved when the ratio of soap to fatty acid material is around 1: 7.

In other embodiments, the preferred starting component of the fatty acid soap material will be the soap itself. "Soap" means an alkali metal, ammonium salt (typically sodium or potassium salt) of long chain (typically C ₈ to C ₂₂ ) fatty acids. Preferred soaps will have a monovalent cation.

In a preferred embodiment, the present invention may comprise a resealable cosmetic container containing a "concentrate", the concentrate may be dry, conveniently a tablet, dry powder or amorphous material, This concentrate is intended to provide the skin care composition after reconstitution with hot water. This concentrate may comprise essential base materials, ie fatty acid materials and organic or inorganic bases or soaps, and any other additives necessary or desirable to form the topical skin care cream or lotion to be formed.

The composition according to the invention is particularly suitable as a base material for providing skin care creams or lotions. In some situations, the fatty acid soap material formed after reconstitution may itself provide a suitable topical skin care composition. However, it is usually desirable to add additional ingredients (also referred to as additives) to the composition to provide a final skin care composition.

Preferred cosmetic products are skin care compositions and vanishing creams. The amount of gas in these products is preferably less than 50%, even more preferably less than 25% and most preferably less than 5% of their total volume.

Suitable additives for cosmetic compositions, especially skin care compositions, are as follows.

In addition to water, relatively volatile solvents such as C _1-3 monohydric alcohols are usually present in relatively small amounts but may be part of the cosmetic excipient of the composition because hot water tends to evaporate when added to the base concentrate. .

Topical compositions formed in accordance with the present invention typically contain 50% to 90% water, more preferably 70% to 85% water and sufficient fatty acids, bases and / or soaps to provide an appropriate amount of fatty acid soap material. Configure your product by providing Suitable amounts of fatty acids may range from 5 to 25%, more preferably 10% to 20%, bases may be 0.1 to 5% (if present), and soaps are 0.1 to 10%, more preferably 1 May be% to 4% (if present).

Topical cosmetic compositions according to the present invention typically comprise 60-99% of an aqueous cosmetic base (eg, water, fatty acids and fatty acid bases), with the remainder being necessary to provide the desired form of topical skin care compositions. Contains ingredients.

In addition, emollient materials may also act as cosmetically acceptable additives. These may be in the form of silicone oils and synthetic esters. The amount of emollient may range from 0.1 to 25% by weight, preferably 1 to 20% by weight of the final topical skin care composition.

Softener materials may be silicone oils, esters or mixtures thereof. Silicone oils can be classified into volatile and nonvolatile varieties. As used herein, the term "volatile" is used to refer to a material having a measurable vapor pressure at ambient temperature. The volatile silicone oils are preferably selected from cyclic or linear polydimethyl siloxanes containing 3 to 9, preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms. The linear volatile silicone material preferably has a viscosity of less than about 5 centistokes at 25 ° C., while the cyclic material typically has a viscosity of less than about 10 centistokes.

Non-volatile silicone oils useful as emollient materials include polyalkyl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes, and polyether siloxane copolymers. Essentially nonvolatile polyalkyl siloxanes useful in the present invention include, for example, polydimethyl siloxanes having a viscosity of about 5 to about 25 million centistokes at 25 ° C. Preferred nonvolatile silicone softeners useful in the compositions of the present invention are polydimethyl siloxanes having a viscosity of about 10 to about 400 centistokes at 25 ° C.

The ester softener is as follows:

(1) Alkenyl or alkyl esters of fatty acids having 10 to 20 carbon atoms. Examples thereof include isoarachidyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl myristate, oleyl stearate and oleyl oleate.

(2) ether-esters, such as fatty acid esters of ethoxylated fatty acids.

(3) polyhydric alcohol esters. Ethylene glycol mono- and di-fatty acid esters, diethylene glycol mono- and di-fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol (200-6000) mono- and di-fatty acid esters, propylene glycol mono- and di-fatty acid esters, polypropylene glycol 2000 Monooleate, polypropylene glycol 2000 monostearate, ethoxylated propylene glycol monostearate, glyceryl mono- and di-fatty acid esters, polyglycerol poly-fatty acid esters, ethoxylated glyceryl monostearate, 1,3-butyl Len glycol monostearate, 1,3-butylene glycol distearate, polyoxyethylene polyol fatty acid esters, sorbitan fatty acid esters and polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid esters are satisfactory polyhydric alcohol esters.

(4) waxes such as beeswax, meridians, myristyl myristate, stearyl stearate and arachidyl behenate.

(5) sterol esters, such as cholesterol fatty acid esters.

In addition, wetting agents of the polyhydric alcohol type can be used as part of cosmetic compositions, in particular cosmetic excipients in the skin care compositions of the invention. Wetting agents increase the efficacy of emollients, reduce keratin formation, promote removal of the formed keratin, and improve skin feel. Typical polyhydric alcohols include glycerol, polyalkylene glycols, more preferably alkylene polyols and derivatives thereof such as propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol and derivatives thereof, sorbitol, hydroxypropyl sorbitol, Hexylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, ethoxylated glycerol, propoxylated glycerol and mixtures thereof. The amount of humectant may be in the range of 0.5-30% by weight, preferably 1-15% by weight of the final skin care composition.

Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may comprise little or no additional thickener. However, if desired, thickeners (small amounts) can be used as part of the cosmetically acceptable excipients of the compositions according to the invention. Suitable thickeners include crosslinking acrylates (eg Carbopol 982), hydrophobization modified acrylates (eg carbopol 1382), cellulose derivatives and natural rubbers. Useful cellulose derivatives are sodium carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose and hydroxymethyl cellulose. Natural rubbers suitable for the present invention include guar, xanthan, fungus, carrageenan, pectin and mixtures of these rubbers. The amount of thickener, if present, may range from 0.0001 to 2%, usually 0.001 to 1% of the weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may further comprise small amounts of other surfactants.

Oil or oily materials may be present with the emulsifier to provide an oil-in-water emulsion typically, but this will depend significantly on the average hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) of the emulsifier used.

Various types of additional active ingredients may be present in the cosmetic compositions of the invention. Active agents are defined as beneficial substances other than emollients and other ingredients that improve only the physical properties of the composition. General examples include, but are not limited to, additional anti-sebum ingredients such as talc and silica and sunscreen.

Sunscreens include materials commonly used to block ultraviolet radiation. Examples of compounds are derivatives of PAA, cinnamates and salicylates. For example, azobenzophenone (Parsol 1789®) octyl methoxycinnamate and 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy benzophenone (also known as oxybenzone) can be used. Octyl methoxycinnamate and 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy benzophenone are those commercially available under the trade names Parsol MCX and Benzophenone-3, respectively. The exact amount of sunscreen used in the composition may vary depending on the desired degree of blocking of solar UV radiation.

For many compositions, especially those containing water, potentially harmful microbial growth should be prevented. Therefore, a preservative may be needed, but since the concentrate is essentially anhydrous, the amount of preservative may be reduced.

Suitable preservatives include alkyl esters of p-hydroxybenzoic acid, hydantoin derivatives, propionate salts and various quaternary ammonium compounds. Particularly preferred preservatives of the invention are methyl paraben, propyl paraben, phenoxyethanol and benzyl alcohol. Preservatives will typically be used in amounts ranging from about 0.1% to 2% by weight of the final skin care composition. In addition, the composition according to the invention may comprise a retinoid. Retinoids increase collagen synthesis by dermal cells. This prevents sun damage and smoothes wrinkled skin. The term "retinoid" as used herein includes retinoic acid, retinol, retinal and retinyl esters. The term "retinoic acid" as used herein includes 13-cis retinoic acid and all-trans retinoic acid.

The term "retinol" as used herein includes isomers of the following retinols: all-trans-retinol, 13-cis-retinol, 11-cis-retinol, 9-cis-retinol, 3,4-didehydro -Retinol. Preferred isomers are all trans-retinol, 13-cis-retinol, 3,4-didehydro-retinol, 9-cis-retinol. All-trans-retinol is most preferred because it has the broadest range of commercial activity.

Retinyl esters are esters of retinol. The term "retinol" is as defined above. Retinyl esters suitable for use in the present invention are C ₁ -C ₃₀ esters of retinol, preferably C ₂ -C ₂₀ esters, most preferably C ₂ , C ₃ and C ₁₆ esters, which are most commonly available Because there is. Examples of retinyl esters are: retinyl palmitate, retinyl formate, retinyl acetate, retinyl propionate, retinyl butyrate, retinyl valerate, retinyl isovalerate, retinyl hexanoate, retinyl Heptanoate, retinyl octanoate, retinyl nonanoate, retinyl decanoate, retinyl undecanedate, retinyl laurate, retinyl tridecanoate, retinyl myristate, retinyl pentadecano Ate, retinyl heptadecanoate, retinyl stearate, retinyl isostearate, retinyl nonadecanoate, retinyl arachidonate, retinyl behenate, retinyl linoleate, retinyl oleate, retinyl Including but not limited to lactate, retinyl glycolate, retinyl hydroxy caprylate, retinyl hydroxy laurate and retinyl tartrate Don't.

If present, the retinoids of the present invention may be present in an amount of 0.001% to 10%, preferably 0.01 to 1%, most preferably 0.01 to 0.05% of the weight of the final skin care composition.

The invention will now be further illustrated by the following examples.

Examples 1-4 illustrate the preparation of base materials suitable for use in topical cosmetic compositions.

ingredient Weight (g) One 2 3 4 Fatty acid ^* 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 NaOH 0.033 - - - KOH - 0.0466 - - Triethanolamine - - 0.125 - Sodium stearate - - - 0.254 water 8.2 8.2 8.2 8.0 ^* Pristerene 4911, commercial blend of stearic acid: palmitic acid at approximately 50:50

Example 5

ingredient W / w% of topical composition glycerin One Fatty acid ^* 18.0 Cetyl alcohol 0.5 Potassium hydroxide 0.5 Octyl methoxy cinnamate 1.0 Butyl methoxy dibenzoyl 0.5 Dimethicone 0.2 Niacinamide One Tetra Sodium EDTA a very small amount Methyl paraben 0.1 Profile paraben 0.1 Phenoxy ethanol 0.4 Spices 0.5 water Up to 100

All of the compositions of Examples 1-5 were mixed in powder or tablet form according to one or more of the following methods. Providing the heated water to the product reconstituted the satisfactory composition base for Examples 1-4 and for Example 5 to a satisfactory topical product.

Method of Preparation of the Composition

1. Manual shake

Powders or tablets prepared from formulations 1-5 (excluding water) were placed in screw top glass vials (about 25 ml volumes). Boiling water was then added into the vial to make the total weight inside the vial the required amount for the entire formulation, and the lid was sealed by closing the lid. The vial was then shaken for about 100 seconds and then cooled in the ambient environment or in a refrigerator. The total cooling time was about 3-5 minutes.

2. Vortex Mixer

Powders or tablets prepared from formulations 1-5 (excluding water) were placed in glass vials (about 25 ml volumes). Boiling water was then added into the vial and the lid closed to seal the vial. This vial was then mixed for about 100 seconds by a vortex mixer. The vibration speed of the vortex mixer ranged from 500-3000 rpm. The vial was cooled in the ambient environment or in a refrigerator. The total cooling time was about 3-5 minutes.

3. Ultrasonic heating and manual shaking

Powders or tablets from formulations 1-5 were placed in plastic containers. Then, NAOH and water were added to the vessel at ambient temperature (NAOH was prepared in advance with powders or tablets and only hot water was added, or sodium hydroxide was premixed with fatty acids and then cold water was added prior to heating. Will work equally satisfactorily). The vessel contents were heated to 80 ° C. for 60 seconds using an ultrasonic heating and mixing device. It was then cooled in the environment or in a refrigerator. The total cooling time was about 3-5 minutes.

4. Electromagnetic heating and manual shaking

Powders or tablets prepared from Formulations 1-5 (excluding water) were placed in glass vials (volume of about 25 ml). Tap water was then added to the vial and the lid closed to seal the vial. The vial was placed in a microwave and heated for 15-25 seconds at 800 W power. The vial was then shaken manually for about 100 seconds and then cooled in the ambient environment or in a refrigerator. The total cooling time was about 3-5 minutes.

Claims (17)

(a) providing a cosmetic container; (b) providing to the vessel an effective amount of fatty acid material having a melting point in the range of 40 ° C. to 80 ° C., and other ingredients necessary to form a substantially anhydrous fatty acid soap material; (c) providing sufficient heated water to the vessel so that substantially all fatty acid material is solubilized to provide fatty acid soap material; And (d) stirring the vessel contents A method of making a topical base composition for use in the manufacture of a cosmetic composition, in particular a topical skin care composition, comprising forming a cream or lotion base. The method of claim 1, wherein the method is performed in a cosmetic container by a consumer who seals the cosmetic container just before stirring. 3. A method according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the fatty acid soap material is provided to the container by previously administering the mixture of soap and fatty acid material to the container. 3. A method according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the fatty acid soap material is provided to the container by previously administering to the container a mixture of the fatty acid material and an effective amount of an organic or inorganic base. The method of claim 4 wherein said base is an inorganic base that is a hydroxide. 6. The method of claim 1, wherein the fatty acid material comprises a fatty acid blend. 7. 7. The method of claim 6 wherein said fatty acid blend comprises a mixture of fatty acid residues having a chain length of C ₈ to C ₂₂ . 8. The fatty acid blend of claim 7 wherein the fatty acid blend is pelagonate, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, ricinoleic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid or eruk A method comprising any of the acids. 9. The method of claim 8, wherein said fatty acid blend comprises at least 50% stearic acid and / or palmitic acid. 10. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the ratio of the soap to the fatty acid material formed is from 1: 1 to 1:20, more preferably from 1: 2 to 1 after providing heated water. : 10 way. The method according to claim 1, wherein the heated water has a temperature of at least 85 ° C., more preferably at least 95 ° C. 12. The method according to claim 1, wherein the container further contains other ingredients necessary to provide a topical skin care cream or lotion. The method according to claim 1, wherein the components of the fatty acid soap material are provided in a container in the form of tablets, dry powder or amorphous material. A resealable cosmetic container containing an anhydrous composition comprising a fatty acid material having a melting point in the range from 40 ° C. to 80 ° C., and a mixture of organic or inorganic bases. A resealable cosmetic container containing an anhydrous composition comprising a mixture of fatty acid material having a melting point in the range 40 ° C. to 80 ° C., and a soap. 16. The resealable cosmetic container of claim 14 or 15, further comprising other ingredients necessary to provide a skin care cream or lotion. Anhydrous compositions in the form of tablets, powders or amorphous materials for administration to a container used according to any of claims 1 to 13.