KR20030037460A - Manufacture of elastic fabric - Google Patents

Manufacture of elastic fabric Download PDF

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Publication number
KR20030037460A
KR20030037460A KR1020010068495A KR20010068495A KR20030037460A KR 20030037460 A KR20030037460 A KR 20030037460A KR 1020010068495 A KR1020010068495 A KR 1020010068495A KR 20010068495 A KR20010068495 A KR 20010068495A KR 20030037460 A KR20030037460 A KR 20030037460A
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South Korea
Prior art keywords
yarn
fabric
elastic fabric
elasticity
polyethylene terephthalate
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KR1020010068495A
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Korean (ko)
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KR100462501B1 (en
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박영민
이용호
손양국
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주식회사 효성
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Priority to KR10-2001-0068495A priority Critical patent/KR100462501B1/en
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/567—Shapes or effects upon shrinkage
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
    • D01D—MECHANICAL METHODS OR APPARATUS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS
    • D01D5/00—Formation of filaments, threads, or the like
    • D01D5/28—Formation of filaments, threads, or the like while mixing different spinning solutions or melts during the spinning operation; Spinnerette packs therefor
    • D01D5/30—Conjugate filaments; Spinnerette packs therefor
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
    • D01F—CHEMICAL FEATURES IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS; APPARATUS SPECIALLY ADAPTED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF CARBON FILAMENTS
    • D01F8/00—Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof
    • D01F8/04—Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof from synthetic polymers
    • D01F8/14—Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof from synthetic polymers with at least one polyester as constituent
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/56—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C7/00—Heating or cooling textile fabrics

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
  • Multicomponent Fibers (AREA)

Abstract

PURPOSE: A manufacturing method of elastic fabric which is characterized by having excellent elasticity, repulsive elasticity and drapability is characterized by using a modified polyethylene terephthalate of high elasticity and a polytrimethylene terephthalate of low elasticity. CONSTITUTION: A manufacturing method of elastic fabric comprises the steps of: preparing a modified polyethylene terephthalate and a polytrimethylene terephthalate; manufacturing side-by-side type latent crimping conjugate fiber; twisting the conjugate fiber with below 2000times/m of twist; weaving elastic fabric using the grey yarn as a warp and a weft; and alkali-reducing the quantity of the fabric to below 30% of a weight loss rate.

Description

신축성 직물의 제조방법{Manufacture of elastic fabric}Manufacture method of elastic fabric

본 발명은 사이드 바이 사이드형 잠재 권축성 복합사를 경, 위사로 사용하여 제조하는 신축성 직물의 제조방법에 관한 것이다.The present invention relates to a method for producing a stretchable fabric produced using side by side latent crimped composite yarn as a light and a weft yarn.

폴리에스터 섬유는 기계적 성질이 우수하므로 의료용 등에 광범위하게 사용되어 왔다.Polyester fibers have been widely used for medical purposes because of their excellent mechanical properties.

최근 스트레치성 의류가 각광을 받으면서 폴리에스터계 직편물에도 스트레치성을 부여하는 방법이 사용되어왔다.Recently, as stretchable garments have been in the spotlight, a method of imparting stretchability to polyester-based knitted fabrics has been used.

예를 들면 직물 중에 폴리우레탄계 탄성사를 혼용하여 스트레성을 부여하는 방법이 있는데, 폴리우레탄계 탄성사는 폴리우레탄 고유의 경화되는 성질로 인하여 직물의 촉감과 스트레치성이 저하되고, 폴리에스터계 분산염료에 염색이 곤란한 문제점이 있다.For example, there is a method in which a polyurethane-based elastic yarn is mixed in a fabric to impart a stretch property, and the polyurethane-based elastic yarn has a softness and stretch property of the fabric due to the inherent hardening property of polyurethane, and is dyed in a polyester-based dispersion dye. There is this difficult problem.

따라서 환원세정을 강화하는 등 염색상의 복잡한 공정으로 인하여 제조공정이 복잡해지고 희망하는 색상의 발현이 어려워지는 단점이 있다.Therefore, the manufacturing process is complicated due to the complex process of dyeing, such as strengthening the reduction cleaning, there is a disadvantage that the appearance of the desired color is difficult.

다른 방법으로는 폴리에스터 섬유에 가연가공을 실시하여 가연 및 해연 토크를 섬유에 발현시켜서 직물에 스트레치성을 부여하는 방법이 있다.Another method is to give a stretch to the fabric by applying a twist to the polyester fiber to express the twist and decompression torque to the fiber.

이 경우에 토크(torque)는 직물표면에 주름을 발생시키기 때문에 직물상의 결점으로 작용하는 단점이 있다.In this case, the torque (torque) causes a wrinkle on the surface of the fabric has a disadvantage that acts as a defect on the fabric.

이 때문에 열처리나 S/Z연에 의해서 토크의 균형을 잡아준 다음에 주름을 발생시켜 결점을 보완하는 방법이 행해지고 있으나, 이 경우 신축성이 떨어지는 단점이 있다.For this reason, a method of compensating for defects by generating wrinkles after balancing torque by heat treatment or S / Z rolling is performed, but in this case, there is a disadvantage in inferior elasticity.

한편, 폴리우레탄이나 가연가공사를 이용하지 않는 방법으로 사이드 바이 사이드 복합방사법을 이용하여 잠재권축성 폴리에스터섬유를 제조하는 방법이 여러 가지 제안되어있다.On the other hand, various methods have been proposed for producing latent crimped polyester fibers using side by side composite spinning as a method that does not use polyurethane or combustible work.

잠재권축성 폴리에스터 복합섬유는 열처리에 의해서 권축이 발현되는 특성이 있으며, 열처리전보다 권축이 발현되는 능력을 갖는 폴리에스터 섬유이다.The latent crimped polyester composite fiber has a property of expressing crimp by heat treatment, and is a polyester fiber having an ability to express crimp than before heat treatment.

이와 같은 잠재권축성 원사는 어느 정도의 스트레치성을 갖지만, 직물에 적용할 경우에는 충분한 스트레치성이 발현되지 않기 때문에 만족할만한 수준의 스트레치성 직물을 얻기 어렵다.Such latent crimped yarns have a certain degree of stretch, but when applied to fabrics, it is difficult to obtain a satisfactory level of stretchable fabrics because they do not exhibit sufficient stretchability.

이것은 상기 사이드 바이 사이드형 섬유가 직물 내에서 구속 상태에 있을 때에는 권축 발현능력이 저하되어 외력에 의해 영향을 쉽게 받기 때문이다.This is because when the side by side fibers are in a restrained state in the fabric, the crimp expression capacity is lowered and is easily affected by external force.

즉 폴리우레탄섬유가 섬유 자신의 신축에 의하여 권축성능을 발휘하는 것과는 달리, 사이드 바이 사이드형 섬유는 폴리머 사이의 수축성의 차이에 의하여 3차원 입체 권축이 발현되는 스트레치성을 이용하는 것이지만 폴리머의 수축이 제한된직물 구조하에서 열처리를 받게 되면 그대로 고정되어 그 이상의 수축성을 상실하게 되는 문제점이 있다.In other words, unlike the polyurethane fiber exerts its crimping performance by stretching the fiber itself, the side-by-side type fiber uses the stretch property in which the three-dimensional solid crimp is expressed by the difference in shrinkage between the polymers, but the shrinkage of the polymer is limited. If the heat treatment under the fabric structure is fixed as it is there is a problem that loses further shrinkage.

본 발명은 잠재권축성 폴리에스터사로 직물을 제조함에 있어서 신축성, 반발탄력성 및 드레이프성이 최대한으로 발현되도록 하는 신축성 직물의 제조방법을 제공하는데 기술적 과제를 두고 있다.The present invention has a technical problem to provide a method for producing a stretch fabric to maximize the elasticity, resilience, and drape in producing a fabric from a latent stretch polyester yarn.

도 1의 a, b, c는 본 발명에 사용되는 잠재 권축성 복합사의 확대 횡단면도.1, a, b, c are enlarged cross-sectional views of latent crimped composite yarn used in the present invention.

본 발명은 수축성이 상이한 변성 폴리에틸렌 테레프탈레이트와 폴리트리메틸렌 테레프탈레이트의 2종의 폴리머를 사이드 바이 사이드 구조로 잠재권축성 복합사를 제조하고 원사에 2,000회/m 이하의 꼬임을 부여한 후, 상기 원사를 경사 및 위사로 하여 제직한 후 30%이하로 감량 및 정련 축소를 하는 것을 특징으로 하는 신축성 직물의 제조 방법에 관한 것이다.The present invention is to produce a latent crimped composite yarn in a side-by-side structure of two polymers of modified polyethylene terephthalate and polytrimethylene terephthalate having different shrinkage properties, and after imparting twist of 2,000 times / m or less to the yarn, the yarn It relates to a method for producing a stretch fabric, characterized in that for weaving with a warp and weft to reduce and refine the reduction to less than 30%.

본 발명을 더욱 상세히 설명하면 다음과 같다.The present invention is described in more detail as follows.

본 발명을 구성하는 잠재권축성 복합사에 있어서, 저수축성분은 폴리트리메틸렌 테레프탈레이트를 반복단위로 하고 있고, 이것을 최소한 90몰% 이상 함유하는 폴리에스터로 되어 있고, 고수축성성분은 이소프탈산을 공중합시킨 변성 폴리에틸렌 테레프탈레이트로 되어 있는 것이다.In the latent crimped composite yarn constituting the present invention, the low shrinkage component is a polytrimethylene terephthalate as a repeating unit, and a polyester containing at least 90 mol% or more thereof, and the high shrinkage component isophthalic acid. The copolymer is a modified polyethylene terephthalate.

상기의 고수축성분과 저수축성분을 중량비 기준으로 50 : 50의 비율이 되도록 복합방사를 실시하고 상기의 원사를 우수한 신축성을 얻을 수 있도록 2,000회/m 이하가 되도록 꼬임을 실시한다.Compound spinning is carried out so that the high shrinkage component and the low shrinkage component have a ratio of 50:50 based on the weight ratio, and the yarn is twisted to 2,000 times / m or less so as to obtain excellent elasticity.

꼬임은 무연 또는 유연 모두 양호하다.Twisting is good both lead free or flexible.

꼬임수가 2,000회/m을 넘을 경우 신축성 및 반발탄력성이 저하되는 단점이 있다.If the twist is more than 2,000 times / m, there is a disadvantage that the elasticity and resilience is reduced.

이렇게 얻어진 원사를 경사 및 위사로 사용하여 제직한 후, 정련, 축소 및 감량가공을 실시한다.The yarn thus obtained is woven using warp and weft yarn, and then refined, reduced and reduced.

감량가공은 통상적으로 공지된 알카리 감량 방법을 사용하되 감량율이 30% 이하가 되도록 한다.Loss reduction is usually carried out using a known alkali reduction method so that the reduction rate is 30% or less.

감량율이 30%를 초과하는 경우에는 얻어진 직물의 강도가 저하되어 일반적인 제품으로 사용하기 어렵다.If the reduction rate exceeds 30%, the strength of the obtained fabric is lowered, making it difficult to use as a general product.

알카리 감량을 실시한 후 염색가공을 실시한다.After alkaline reduction, dyeing process is performed.

염색가공은 액류염색기를 사용하여 최대한 저장력으로 행하는 것이 바람직하다.It is preferable to perform dyeing process with maximum storage capacity using a liquid dyeing machine.

직물에 높은 장력이 걸리면 권축 발현에 저해요인으로 작용하여 신축성이 소실될 우려가 있다.If a high tension is applied to the fabric, it may act as an inhibitory factor in the expression of the crimp and the elasticity may be lost.

본 발명에 의하여 제조한 신축성 직물의 신장율 및 신장회복율은 아래와 같이 측정하였다.The stretch rate and stretch recovery rate of the stretch fabric produced according to the present invention were measured as follows.

<신장율><Elongation rate>

한국 공업규격 KS K 0352에 따라서 1.5Kgf의 하중을 걸고 측정을 하였다.According to the Korean Industrial Standard KS K 0352, the measurement was carried out under a load of 1.5 Kgf.

<신장회복율><Height recovery rate>

한국 공업규격 KS K 0352에 따라서 일정한 길이의 시료(L0)에 1.5Kgf의 하중을 걸고 측정한 신도의 80%까지 신장한 후(L1), 신장상태에서 1분간 방치한다.According to the Korean Industrial Standard KS K 0352, a specimen of a certain length (L0) is loaded with a load of 1.5 kgf and elongated to 80% of the measured elongation (L1).

하중을 제거한 후 3분간 방치한다(L2)Leave for 3 minutes after removing the load (L2)

신장회복율 = [( L1 - L2 ) / ( L1 - L0 )]Elongation Recovery = [(L1-L2) / (L1-L0)]

실시예 1Example 1

고유점도가 0.92인 저수축성 폴리트리메틸렌 테레프탈레이트와, 이소프탈산 12몰%를 공중합한 고유점도 0.62인 고수축성 폴리에틸렌 테레프탈레이트를 각각 265℃, 285℃로 용융하여 24개의 방사구금을 통하여 중량 복합비 기준 50 : 50로 토출하여 100데니어/24필라멘트의 원사를 얻었다.Low shrinkage polytrimethylene terephthalate with an intrinsic viscosity of 0.92 and high shrinkage polyethylene terephthalate with an intrinsic viscosity of 0.62 obtained by copolymerizing 12 mol% of isophthalic acid were melted at 265 ° C and 285 ° C, respectively. The standard 50:50 was discharged and the yarn of 100 denier / 24 filament was obtained.

상기 원사에 1,000회/m으로 꼬임을 부여하고, 경사 및 위사에 적용하여 제직한다.The yarn is twisted at 1,000 times / m and applied to warp and weft to weave.

가공은 통상의 방법을 사용하고 180℃의 조건에서 열고정을 실시하였다.The heat treatment was performed under the condition of 180 ° C. using a conventional method.

감량가공은 감량율이 18%가 되도록 실시하고 염색은 120℃에서 40분간 실시하였다.The weight loss process was carried out so that the weight loss ratio was 18%, and the dyeing was performed at 120 ° C. for 40 minutes.

그 결과는 표 1과 같다.The results are shown in Table 1.

실시예 2Example 2

실시예 1에서 꼬임수를 1,500회/m로 한 것을 제외하고는 실시예 1과 동일하게 가공하였다.The same process as in Example 1 was carried out except that the number of twists in Example 1 was 1,500 times / m.

비교예 1Comparative Example 1

실시예1에서 꼬임수를 2,400회/m로 한 것을 제외하고는 실시예 1과 동일하게 가공하였다.The same process as in Example 1 was conducted except that the number of twists in Example 1 was 2,400 times / m.

비교예 2Comparative Example 2

실시예 1에서 감량율을 40%로 한 것을 제외하고는 실시예 1과 동일하게 가공하였다.The same process as in Example 1 was carried out except that the weight loss was 40% in Example 1.

비교예 3Comparative Example 3

폴리에스터 가연사 100d의 원사를 사용하여 실시예 1과 동일하게 가공하였다.It processed similarly to Example 1 using the yarn of polyester false twisted yarn 100d.

< 표 1 ><Table 1>

신장율Elongation 신장회복율Elongation recovery 드레이프성Drape Castle 반발탄력성Resilience 경circa 위top 경circa 위top 실시예1Example 1 4444 4848 9090 9191 ◎◎ ◎◎ 실시예2Example 2 3636 3838 9393 9494 ◎◎ ◎◎ 비교예1Comparative Example 1 1818 1919 8080 8282 ○○ ○○ 비교예2Comparative Example 2 2424 2525 8686 8888 △△ ○○ 비교예3Comparative Example 3 1111 1010 9090 9090 ×× △△

◎ : 매우 양호 , ○ : 양 호 , △ : 보 통 , × : 불 량◎: Very good, ○: Good, △: Normal, ×: Poor

본 발명은 고수축성의 변성 폴리에틸렌 테레프탈레이트와 저수축성의 폴리트리메틸렌 테레프탈레이트의 2종의 폴리머를 이용하여 사이드 바이 사이드 구조로 잠재권축성복합사를 제조한 후, 가공공정 중 열처리를 하여 잠재적인 권축이 최대한으로 발현되도록 한 다음에 적절하게 감량 처리함으로서 신축성 및 반발탄력성이 우수하고 드레이프성이 향상된 직물을 제조할 수 있다.The present invention is to produce a latent crimped composite yarn in a side-by-side structure using two polymers, a highly shrinkable modified polyethylene terephthalate and a low-shrinkable polytrimethylene terephthalate, and then subjected to heat treatment during the processing. By allowing the crimp to be expressed to the maximum extent and then reducing the weight appropriately, a fabric having excellent elasticity and resilience and improved drape can be produced.

Claims (3)

수축성이 상이한 2종의 폴리머인 변성 폴리에틸렌 테레프탈레이트와 폴리트리메틸렌 테레프탈레이트를 사용하여 사이드 바이 사이드형 잠재권축성 복합사를 제조하고, 상기 복합사에 2,000회/m회 이하의 꼬임을 부여한 후 상기 원사를 경사 및 위사로 하여 제직한 후 감량율이 30% 이하가 되도록 알카리 감량하는 것을 특징으로 하는 신축성 직물의 제조 방법.A side by side type latent crimped composite yarn is prepared by using two types of polymers having different shrinkage properties, modified polyethylene terephthalate and polytrimethylene terephthalate, and the twisted yarn is subjected to twist of 2,000 times / m or less after A method of producing an elastic fabric, characterized by reducing the alkali so that the loss ratio is 30% or less after weaving the yarn with warp and weft yarns. 제 1 항에 있어서, 잠재권축성 복합사의 제조시, 변성 폴리에틸렌 테레프탈레이트와 폴리트리메틸렌 테레프탈레이트를 중량비 기준으로 50 : 50의 비율이 되도록 복합방사하는 것을 특징으로 하는 신축성 직물의 제조 방법.The method of manufacturing a stretch fabric according to claim 1, wherein in the production of the latent crimped composite yarn, the modified polyethylene terephthalate and the polytrimethylene terephthalate are spun in a 50:50 ratio by weight. 제 1 항의 제조방법으로 제조된 신축성 직물.Elastic fabric produced by the method of claim 1.
KR10-2001-0068495A 2001-11-05 2001-11-05 Manufacture of elastic fabric KR100462501B1 (en)

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KR20040000121A (en) * 2002-06-24 2004-01-03 주식회사 새 한 Manufacturing method of polyester divided yarn having latent crimping
KR100700796B1 (en) * 2005-11-07 2007-03-28 주식회사 휴비스 Spontaneous high-crimp polyester multiple staple fiber, and spun yarn and nonwaven fabric containing the same

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KR100503437B1 (en) * 1996-12-13 2006-01-27 주식회사 휴비스 Manufacturing Method of Polyester Composite Fiber
JP3473890B2 (en) * 1997-12-22 2003-12-08 旭化成株式会社 Polyester composite fiber
JP3485070B2 (en) * 1999-06-08 2004-01-13 東レ株式会社 Highly crimpable polyester-based composite fiber, method for producing the same, and fabric
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KR20040000121A (en) * 2002-06-24 2004-01-03 주식회사 새 한 Manufacturing method of polyester divided yarn having latent crimping
KR100700796B1 (en) * 2005-11-07 2007-03-28 주식회사 휴비스 Spontaneous high-crimp polyester multiple staple fiber, and spun yarn and nonwaven fabric containing the same

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