KR20020076874A - Cosmetic composition for lowering stimulation of the skin and enhancing moisturization of the skin - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE: An emulsion cosmetic composition containing a polyoxyethylene-free type emulsifier together with a natural lipid mixture to reduce skin irritation is provided which increases moisturization as well as phase stability and a skin reducing effect. CONSTITUTION: This cosmetic composition contains 0.5 to 10.0% by weight of a polyoxyethylene-free type emulsifier, a natural lipid mixture stabilizing agent and additionally 0.01 to 0.5% by weight of ceramide. The polyoxyethylene-free type emulsifier is selected from the group consisting of arachidyl behenyl alcohol-arachidyl glucoside, C14-22 alkyl alcohol-C12-20 alkyl glucoside, cetearyl alcohol-cetearyl polyglucose, polyglycerol methylglucose distearate, acetylated sucrose distearate, sucrose palmitate, sorbitan stearate-sucrose cocoate, decylglucoside and methylglucose sesquistearate. The natural lipid mixture contains 0.1 to 5.0% by weight of stearic acid, 0.1 to 5.0% by weight of batyl alcohol and 0.1 to 3.0% by weight of lecithin.

Description

Hypoallergenic and highly moisturizing cosmetic composition {Cosmetic composition for lowering stimulation of the skin and enhancing moisturization of the skin}

The present invention relates to an emulsified cosmetic composition using a polyoxyethylene-free emulsifier to form a hypoallergenic and highly moisturizing emulsifying system. More specifically, to reduce skin irritation, it contains a natural emulsifier with a glycoside derivative structure, which is a polyoxyethylene-free emulsifier, and in the case of using a glucose derivative emulsifier, emulsification is unstable and hardness control is not easy due to severe change over time. In order to solve the shortcomings, a stabilizer is introduced to form a lamellar liquid crystal at the interface using a natural lipid mixture, thereby preventing the emulsion particles from coalescing, thereby facilitating the formation of a gel-network which can contribute to the stability and hardness of the emulsion. A hypoallergenic, highly moisturizing natural emulsified cosmetic composition, which can achieve an emulsification system having superior phase stability and can increase moisturizing ability by easily using ceramide, which is a main component of skin lipid, which is difficult to use due to deposition phenomenon. will be.

Recently, in the case of emulsion emulsions used in cosmetics, in addition to the basic skin protection function, various additional functions such as UV protection and skin improvement function are considered important, and various harmful substances due to environmental pollution and pollution are applied to the skin. With increasing interest in the effects of the skin, consumers are more responsive to hypoallergenic emulsifying cosmetics with less skin irritation, but various products have been released. Until now, hypoallergenic products have been used to reduce irritation or reduce skin irritation. And it was common to limit the amount, and as a result, the usability of the product was reduced and the skin improvement effect using the functional material was limited. Examples of the substances that cause skin side effects include preservatives, emulsifiers, oils, and skin-improving substances.In order to minimize their irritation, they are more effective than water-in-oil cosmetics that add these substances to the trauma to minimize direct contact with the skin. It is currently applied to oil-in-water cosmetics added to the merchant oil phase (USP 5,989,572, USP 6,036,963).

Among them, preservatives are being improved by reducing the amount of preservatives and natural preservatives by improving the production and manufacturing facilities, and in the case of oils, ester-based oils that can cause skin side effects with the development of various kinds of silicone oils with excellent usability recently. And animal oils have been replaced by many. However, even in these hypoallergenic compositions, an emulsifier must be included in a certain amount for the stability of the product. Up to now, the emulsifier has excellent dispersion and emulsifying power. In particular, nonionic emulsifiers having a polyoxyethylene group having less skin irritation than the emulsifiers having an anionic or cationic structure are used the most (USP 5,741,518).

However, in recent years, an excessively reactive ethylene oxide is released from the excess polyoxyethylene group contained in such an emulsifier having a nonionic structure, which may cause various skin diseases. Therefore, the polyoxyethylene group is contained to reduce skin irritation. Efforts have been made to develop products using non-emulsifiers, that is, polyoxyethylene-free emulsifiers, but in most cases, unstable emulsification conditions result in poor stability, severe changes over time, and solidified contents after a long time. This occurred and it was difficult to develop a satisfactory product (Korean Patent Application No. 1999-009251).

Recently, natural emulsifiers having a glucose derivative structure of polyoxyethylene-free type and excellent emulsification ability have been introduced. These emulsifiers have excellent emulsifying power without containing polyoxyethylene groups, and thus are used alone without auxiliary emulsifiers. Although it has the advantage of forming a stable emulsification and improving the usability of the product to some extent, there is a problem that a large amount of emulsifier should be used because the viscosity and viscosity increase effect are small according to the amount of use compared to an emulsifier having a polyoxyethylene group. This remains (Korean Patent Application Nos. 1995-047933 and 1997-002733). This is because when the oil-in-water cosmetic is prepared with the conventional polyoxyethylene structure emulsifier, it is easy to control the viscosity and hardness because it easily forms a crystal (liquid crystal) in the interfacial membrane even with a small amount of cetostearyl alcohol. When the same amount of the emulsifier of the ethylene-free glucose derivative is used, it is difficult to control the viscosity and hardness according to the application of cetostearyl alcohol.

In order to overcome these disadvantages, by using a stabilizer of natural lipid mixtures to form a gel-network structure, it was possible to complete the formulation by controlling the properties of the hardness, such as control of the viscosity, and a hypoallergenic stable emulsifying product having a desired feeling Could make. In addition, the greatest feature in such a natural emulsified gel-network system has the advantage that it can be contained in a high content because of excellent compatibility with ceramide. In other words, ceramide is a major component of skin lipids, which restores damaged skin barriers, prevents transdermal moisture loss and prevents contact dermatitis. However, it is well known that such ceramides are very hydrophobic and have a high tendency to crystallize, making it difficult to develop an effective prescription containing them. Therefore, there are many limitations to using it in general emulsification system or liposome with high content (Korean Patent Application No.1999-026753)

In addition, the natural emulsification system used as a polyoxyethylene-free emulsifier in the present invention, when manufacturing an emulsion, which is a disadvantage of the polyoxyethylene emulsifier, by heating the water phase and the oil phase to about 70 ~ 80 ℃ immediately before emulsification It is common to emulsify the emulsion after the emulsification. At this time, when the oil phase containing the polyoxyethylene emulsifier is heated together, the ethylene oxide group, which is a hydrophilic group, becomes hydrophilic as the temperature increases, and reacts sensitively according to the composition of the emulsion. In some cases, undesired phenomena such as phase inversion (Phase Inversion), but this system was able to develop a cosmetic with a stable emulsification power does not change the emulsification power with temperature.

In order to solve the above problems, the present invention uses a natural emulsifier of a glucose derivative structure, a polyoxyethylene-free emulsifier, to reduce skin irritation, and a problem caused by using a stabilizer of a natural lipid mixture. Easily control the physical properties such as hardness, it was possible to complete the formulation having a stable emulsification power without changing the emulsification power according to temperature, and a gel-network emulsification system that can contain ceramide stably with low skin irritation and excellent moisturizing glucose An emulsified cosmetic composition using a derivative emulsifier is provided.

The highly moisturizing emulsion cosmetic composition of the present invention is a polyoxyethylene-free type emulsifier used to reduce irritation and has arachidyl behenyl alcohol-arachidyl glucoside, C14-22 alkyl alcohol-C12-20 alkyl glucoside of glycos derivative structure. , Cetearylalcohol-cetearylpolyglucose, polyglycerolmethylglucose distearate, acetylated sucrose distearate, sucrose palmitate, sorbitan stearate-sucrose cocoate, decylglucoside and It is selected from the group containing methylglucose sesquistearate, preferably arachidyl behenyl alcohol- arachidyl glucoside, C14-22 alkyl alcohol-C12-20 alkyl glucoside can be used, and the compounding amount is the total weight of the composition. It is 0.5-10.0 weight% with respect to, and it can mix them 1 or more types.

In addition, the highly moisturizing emulsion cosmetic composition of the present invention is a stabilizer, which is a natural lipid mixture that may contribute to the stability and hardness of the emulsion as a higher fatty acid having 12 to 20 carbon atoms as lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, It is selected from the group containing isostearic acid, and preferably stearic acid and higher alcohols are higher fatty alcohols having 14 to 22 carbon atoms, such as cetanol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol and batyl alcohol. At least one selected from the group containing more preferably, more preferably batyl alcohol, lecithin which is a lipid component obtained from soybean was used together.

In addition, the highly moisturizing emulsified cosmetic composition of the present invention facilitated gel-network formation using 0.1 to 5.0% by weight of stearic acid as the higher fatty acid, and polylized using 0.1 to 3.0% by weight of lecithin obtained from soybean. The emulsifying power of the oxyethylene-free type natural emulsifier was reinforced, and the anti-inflammatory effect was promoted by using 0.1 to 5.0% by weight of high alcohol as batyl alcohol to further improve the stimulating alleviation effect.

In addition, the highly moisturizing emulsion cosmetic composition of the present invention is easy to form a gel network by using a natural lipid mixture in an emulsion cosmetic composition containing a natural emulsifier of a polyoxyethylene-free glucose derivative structure to facilitate the formation of a gel network. In the emulsification system of the high hydrophobicity, crystallization tendency is large, it is easy to use ceramide, which is difficult to use skin lipid 0.01 ~ 0.5% by weight can be easily used hypoallergenic stable high moisturizing natural emulsifying cosmetics, characterized in that it can increase the moisturizing power It relates to a composition.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail with reference to the following examples, but the present invention is not limited thereto.

Examples 1 to 3

Highly moisturizing natural emulsified cosmetics

According to the composition shown in Table 1 below was prepared an emulsion cosmetic of Examples 1 to 3 by the following production method. After dissolving the water phase part of the A part and the oil phase part of B in Table 1 to 75-80 ° C., respectively, completely dissolving the oil phase part, the oil phase part was slowly added to the water phase, and then, at 75 to 80 ° C. at 3000 rpm in a homomixer. Emulsify for a minute. During the emulsification, the neutralizing agent of claim C is added to neutralize. After completion of the first emulsification, the mixture is cooled, and the fragrance and additives of claim D are added at 50 to 55 ° C., and then emulsified for 2 minutes at 3000 rpm in a homomixer, and then cooled to terminate the manufacturing process at 27 to 30 ° C. to emulsify cosmetics. The preparation was completed.

Highly moisturizing natural emulsified cosmetic composition division Raw material name Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 A glycerin 5.0 5.0 5.0 Butylene glycol 5.0 5.0 5.0 antiseptic Quantity Quantity Quantity Carbomer 0.20 0.20 0.20 Xanthan Gum 0.05 0.05 0.05 Purified water to 100 to 100 to 100 B Arachidil Behenyl Alcohol-Arachidyl Glucoside 2.0 3.0 1.5 C14-C22 Alkyl Alcohol-C12-C20 Alkale Glucoside - - 1.0 Stearic acid 0.5 1.0 1.5 Batyl alcohol 1.0 1.5 1.0 lecithin 0.5 1.0 0.8 Liquid paraffin 4.0 5.0 4.0 Squalane 6.0 5.0 6.0 Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides 5.0 10.0 10.0 Ceramide 0.2 0.3 0.3 C Triethanolamine 0.24 0.26 0.28 D Spices and Additives Quantity Quantity Quantity

Comparative Examples 1 to 6

Highly moisturizing emulsion cosmetic manufacturing

According to the composition shown in Table 2 below was prepared an emulsion cosmetic of Comparative Examples 1 to 6 by the following production method. After dissolving the water-part parts of item A and the oil parts of item B described in Table 2 to 75 to 80 ° C., respectively, and completely dissolving them, the oil parts were slowly added to the water parts, and then 5 to 3000 rpm at a homomixer at 75 to 80 ° C. Emulsify for a minute. During the emulsification, the neutralizing agent of claim C is added to neutralize. After completion of the first emulsification, the mixture is cooled, and the fragrance and additives of claim D are added at 50 to 55 ° C., and then emulsified for 2 minutes at 3000 rpm in a homomixer, and then cooled to terminate the manufacturing process at 27 to 30 ° C. to emulsify cosmetics. The preparation was completed.

Highly moisturizing natural emulsified cosmetic composition division Raw material name Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Comparative Example 3 Comparative Example 4 Comparative Example 5 Comparative Example 6 A glycerin 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 Butylene glycol 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 antiseptic Quantity Quantity Quantity Quantity Quantity Quantity Carbomer 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 Xanthan Gum 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 Purified water to 100 to 100 to 100 to 100 to 100 to 100 B Arachidil Behenyl Alcohol-Arachidyl Glucoside - 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 Stearic acid - - - 1.0 1.0 1.0 Batyl alcohol - - 1.0 - 1.5 1.0 lecithin - - 1.0 1.0 - 1.0 Cetostearyl alcohol 1.0 1.0 - - - - Self-emulsifying glycerin monostearate 1.0 - - - - - Sorbitan monosulfate (1) 0.5 - - - - - Glyceryl monostearate (POE40) (2) 1.0 - - - - - Liquid paraffin 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 Squalane 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides 10.0 10.0 10.0 10.0 10.0 10.0 Ceramide 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 - C Triethanolamine 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.25 0.25 0.25 D Spices and Additives Quantity Quantity Quantity Quantity Quantity Quantity

(1) Product Name: Ar-60 (ICI, USA)

(2) Product name: My-52 (ICI, USA)

Experimental Example

Long-term emulsification stability test

The emulsion cosmetics were prepared in Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 6 in Table 2, and the emulsion stability thereof was compared to phase stability for 3 months in a constant temperature and humidity bath at 45 ° C, 4 ° C, and 25 ° C. It was. Table 3 shows the comparison results. In Table 3, the long-term phase stability was evaluated as being better on a four-point scale, which is represented by numerical values in consideration of deposition phenomenon at low temperature and phase separation at high temperature.

Observation and Phase Accuracy of Emulsified Particles in Examples and Comparative Examples According to Storage Temperature division Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Comparative Example 3 Comparative Example 4 Comparative Example 5 High temperature phase stability result (45 ℃: 3 months) 4 4 4 3 One 3 3 2 Low temperature phase stability result (4 ℃: 3 months) 4 4 4 One One One 2 2 Scale: 4 = very stable (high temperature: no separation, low temperature: no deposition), 3 = stable (high temperature: upper or lower layer separation 1mm or less, low temperature: deposition finely observed), 2 = normal (high temperature: upper or lower layer separation) 5 mm or less, low temperature: shows sedimentation), 1 = separation and sedimentation shows (high temperature: 5 mm or more separated from upper or lower layer, low temperature: high sedimentation).

In addition, as shown in Table 4, the change over time was measured as a change in hardness over time, and the compositions of Examples and Comparative Examples were stored in a 25 ° C thermostat and then measured with hardness using a rheometer. (Rheometer: Sun Rheo Meter, CR-200D, Sun Scientific Co.Ltd, 20φ (20mm), speed 120 mm / min, set 20.0 mm)

Observation and Phase Accuracy of Emulsified Particles in Examples and Comparative Examples Over Time division Manufacture day 1 day later 2 days later In a week 1 month later 3 months later Example 2 35 38 39 40 41 40 Example 3 33 37 37 38 38 38 Comparative Example 1 31 39 43 45 48 50 Comparative Example 2 26 31 35 42 48 55 Comparative Example 3 29 33 36 40 45 50

Polyoxyethylene-based emulsifier that is not the case when using a natural emulsifier of the glucose derivative structure of the polyoxyethylene-free type emulsifier according to the present invention as shown in Tables 3 and 4 and using a natural lipid mixture as a stabilizer It can be seen that the gel-network emulsification system that can contain the ceramide more stably than Comparative Example 1 using the excellent long-term emulsification stability and small changes over time. On the other hand, when the stearic acid is not added to the natural fatty acid mixture of fatty acid as a stabilizer as in Comparative Example 2 and Comparative Example 3, the gel network could not be formed and the contents were hardened at low temperature or ceramide deposition occurred. Or, as shown in 5, when the natural lipid mixture does not contain lecithin, the delamination at high temperature is more severe, and it can be seen that the change with time becomes severe with increasing hardness over time.

Skin Moisturizing Test

Experimental Method: 20 subjects, 20 to 35 years old, were covered for 3 weeks after labeling. For the first 1 week, the initial lower part of the upper arm of the subject was washed off without any product. Twice a day twice a day for 2 weeks (after washing face in the morning and after face wash in the evening), apply 2.5μl of product to each 1cm2 area and use Tewameter after 2 weeks to remove transdermal moisture (TEWL; trans- epidermal water loss) was measured and the results are shown in Table 5.

Skin moisture loss measurement division No coating Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Comparative Example 6 Example 1 Example 2 TEWL (a / hm ² ) Before application 9.6 10.3 11.1 10.5 11.4 10.6 2 weeks after application 9.5 10.1 10.7 9.5 9.6 8.2 △ TEWL -0.10 -0.20 -0.40 -1.0 -1.8 -2.4 TEWL compared to no coating - 2x reduction 4x reduction 10x reduction 18x reduction 24x reduction

※ The smaller the △ TEWL (after two weeks of application-before application), the stronger the skin barrier is to prevent the loss of moisture.

As shown in Table 5, the composition using the polyoxyethylene-free emulsifier containing the natural lipid mixture according to the present invention shows that the transdermal moisture loss amount is 12 times smaller than that of the general emulsified composition (Comparative Example 1). It does not contain a natural lipid mixture as a stabilizer, which is 6 times smaller than Comparative Example 2, which does not easily form a gel-network similar to the lamella structure of the skin, and does not contain ceramide, which has an excellent ability to improve damaged skin barrier. It can be seen that it is 2.4 times smaller than Comparative Example 6.

In the polyoxyethylene-free type natural emulsification system containing the natural lipid mixture obtained in the present invention, the barrier role that firmly connects the transdermal skin cells is formed in a gel network similar to that of the lamellar structure in the skin, thereby making the ceramide more stable than before. It can be seen that it can suppress the evaporation of water in the transdermal and increase the skin moisturizing power.

Skin irritation test

Skin irritation measurement division Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Comparative Example 3 Comparative Example 6 Example 1 Example 2 Average skin irritation 25.0 20.0 12.0 10.0 5.0 3.0 Irritancy judgment 3 2 2 One One One

(※ CLOSED PATCH TEST (2 days), PATCH subjects: 20 people)

Evaluation Criteria Value:

1 = 1.0 to 10.0: minimal stimulus,

2 = 10.1 to 20.0: mild stimulation,

3 = 20.1 to 40.0: moderate stimulus,

4 = 40.1 or more: severe irritation.

As shown in Table 6, the composition using the polyoxyethylene-free emulsifier containing the natural lipid mixture according to the present invention was found to be milder in terms of skin safety than the other general emulsion composition (Comparative Example 1). When the lipid mixture does not contain the batyl alcohol it can be seen that the stimulating relaxation ability is reduced.

According to the hypoallergenic, highly moisturizing natural emulsified cosmetic composition according to the present invention, it is possible to obtain a moisturizing and hypoallergenic mild cosmetic composition, and more specifically, to reduce skin irritation, a glycoxy derivative which is a polyoxyethylene-free emulsifier Containing a natural emulsifier of structure, and used as a stabilizer of natural lipid mixtures to facilitate the formation of a gel-network, it was possible to obtain long-term phase stability and irritation-releasing effect more largely strong hydrophobicity, so large crystallization tendency to use Ceramides, which are the main components of difficult skin lipids, can also be easily used to increase moisture retention.

Claims (4)

In the cosmetic composition, 0.5 to 10.0 wt% polyoxyethylene-free emulsifier to reduce skin irritation; And Natural Lipid Mixture Stabilizer Hypo-allergenic and highly moisturizing cosmetic composition comprising a. The method of claim 1, The polyoxyethylene-free emulsifier is arachidyl behenyl alcohol- arachidyl glucoside, C14-22 alkyl alcohol-C12-20 alkyl glucoside, cetearyl alcohol-cetearyl polyglucose, polyglycerol methyl glucose distea Author selected from the group consisting of latex, acetylated sucrose distearate, sucrose palmitate, sorbitan stearate-sucrose cocoate, decylglucoside and methylglucose sesquistearate Polar and highly moisturizing cosmetic composition. The method of claim 1, Natural lipid mixture stabilizer is a cosmetic composition characterized in that it contains 0.1 to 5.0% by weight of higher fatty acid stearic acid, 0.1 to 5.0% by weight of higher alcohol batyl alcohol, and 0.1 to 3.0% by weight of lecithin, which is a lipid component obtained from soybean, respectively. . The hypoallergenic and highly moisturizing cosmetic composition according to claim 1, further comprising 0.01 to 0.5% by weight of ceramide to improve skin moisturizing ability.