KR20010107962A - A skin lightening composition containing an ascorbic acid compound - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition consisting of the following materials: (a) an ascorbic acid compound; (b) charged, reflective particulate material, preferred embodiments of which are coated with titanium dioxide; (c) structuring compounds (preferred embodiments thereof are combinations of surfactants and fatty alcohols); And (d) a cosmetically acceptable carrier. Preferred use of the composition is a skin lightening composition. In the present invention, ascorbic acid compound means ascorbic acid or a derivative thereof of formula (II):

[Formula II]

Wherein R ² and R ³ are independently selected from hydrogen and straight or branched chain alkyl of 1 to about 8 carbon atoms; M ¹ is a metal; x is an integer from 1 to about 3. More preferably, R ² and R ³ are independently selected from hydrogen and straight or branched chain alkyl of 1 to about 3 carbon atoms; M ¹ is sodium, potassium, magnesium, or calcium).

Description

Skin whitening composition containing ascorbic acid compound {A SKIN LIGHTENING COMPOSITION CONTAINING AN ASCORBIC ACID COMPOUND}

Consumers frequently use cosmetic products to protect their skin as well as to improve their skin health and / or appearance. Rough and rough or damaged skin and hyperpigmentation (stains, freckles, and brown spots from sun exposure on human skin, skin aging or environmental damage) are areas that consumers typically want to treat. Whitening is of particular interest to certain Asians.

Irradiation of ultraviolet (UV) rays tends to burn in the sun, causing the skin to darken and / or cause hyperpigmentation. Lack of or lack of tyrosinase, an enzyme that causes hyperpigmentation in connection with melanin formation, is commonly known as, for example, albinism. As a result of exposure to sunlight, irradiation of UV rays promotes melanin complex formation of melanocytes located in the basal layer of the epidermis. The melanin is then released from the melanocyte dendrites and then diffused to the keratinocytes, causing hyperpigmentation of the skin. Such hyperpigmentation can take the form of blemishes, freckles, acne, unpleasant general blackishness and / or roughness of the underlying skin.

A wide variety of compounds and / or components such as ascorbic acid and derivatives thereof, kojic acid and derivatives thereof, hydroquinones, arbutin, and various extracts such as licorice are known and commonly available for skin whitening applications. In addition, in the last few years, high-tech synthetic ingredients useful for skin whitening have become available in a wide variety of product forms.

L-ascorbic acid (such as vitamin C) is a useful ingredient as a skin whitening and / or leveling agent, as well as reducing agents, UV absorbers and melanogenesis inhibitors in cosmetics. However, it is also known that L-ascorbic acid tends to be unstable in the formulation, causing the composition to have a yellow color which is not intended to cause the composition to eventually turn brown. This can lead to a decrease in product value.

Certain combinations have been devised to stabilize compositions containing ascorbic acid. Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication (Kokai) H1-213212 (Imamura et al., Aug. 28, 1989) discloses a stable cosmetic composition containing an ascorbic acid derivative and gluconic acid. Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. H1-305009 (Yamada et al., Dec. 8, 1989) discloses a stable cosmetic composition containing an ascorbic acid derivative and a cyclodextrin. Japanese Laid-Open Publication H3-63208 (Sato, issued March 19, 1991) discloses a composition containing ascorbic acid and phenoxyethanol. Such combinations tend to provide acceptable stability to the composition, but a change in product appearance to yellow or brown is still observed, especially during storage. Thus, it would be reasonable to stabilize a composition containing ascorbic acid, especially while simultaneously increasing the level of ascorbic acid present in the formulation.

In view of the foregoing, there is a need for a stable skin whitening composition that not only maintains good product aesthetics but also has increased levels of ascorbic acid compounds. No current technology provides all of the advantages and advantages of the present invention.

summary

The present invention relates to a composition consisting of the following materials:

(a) ascorbic acid compounds;

(b) charged, reflective particulate material;

(c) structuring compounds; And

(d) Cosmetically acceptable carrier.

The foregoing materials and other features, aspects, and advantages of the invention will be better understood upon reading the following description and the appended claims.

The present invention relates to a topical composition. In particular, it relates to a topical skin lightening composition.

While the specification is set forth in the claims particularly cautioned and specifically claimed in the present invention, it is believed that the present invention will be better understood by the following description.

Hereinafter, all percentages, ratios, and levels of ingredients mentioned are based on the actual total amount of the composition, unless otherwise indicated.

Hereinafter, all the measurements mentioned are made at 25 degreeC, unless otherwise specified.

All publications, patent applications, and issued patents mentioned below are hereby incorporated by reference in their entirety. The citation of any reference is not an admission to any decision as to prior art availability for the claimed invention.

Hereinafter, "consisting of" means that other steps and other ingredients can be added that do not affect the final result. This term also corresponds to the terms "consisting of" and "consisting essentially of".

Hereinafter, "topical application" means applying or spreading a substance on the surface of the skin.

Hereinafter, "skin whitening" refers to changing the appearance of skin to a brighter / brighter, lighter / lighter / whiter appearance and improving hyperpigmentation compared to previous treatments.

"Cosmetically acceptable" means that the described compositions or components thereof are suitable for use in contact with human skin without excessive toxicity, incompatibility, instability, allergic reactions, and the like.

Hereinafter, a “safe and effective amount” is an amount such that the amount of the compound or composition is sufficient to induce or feel a positive benefit, preferably a positive skin appearance, independently including the benefits disclosed below. A quantity low enough to avoid serious side effects, such as within a range of solid judgment by one skilled in the art, will provide a ratio of reasonable benefits and risks.

Hereinafter, "mixture" is meant to include simple combinations of materials and any compounds that can produce a combination.

All ingredients, such as the useful active agents and other ingredients of the present invention, may be categorized or disclosed by their cosmetic and / or therapeutic advantages or their assumed mode of action. However, active agents and other ingredients useful in the present invention may, in some instances, provide one or more cosmetic and / or therapeutic advantages or act through one or more actions. Thus, the classifications herein are made for convenience and are not intended to limit the ingredients to the applications mentioned or described applications specifically.

The present invention relates to a composition consisting of an ascorbic acid compound, a charged, reflective particulate material, a structuring compound, and a cosmetically acceptable carrier.

Without being bound by theory, it is believed that the high reducing power of ascorbic acid compounds provides enhancement of cellular respiration, enzyme activation and antioxidant. It is also believed that topical application of ascorbic acid compounds tend not only to inhibit tyrosinase activity in melanosomes, but also to reduce the oxidized melanin complex itself and its precursors. As a result, it is also believed that compositions containing ascorbic acid compounds can provide benefits to the skin such as prevention of melanin production and reduction of blemishes, acne and / or freckles associated with skin hyperpigmentation.

Increasing the ascorbic acid concentration in the composition will typically improve the efficacy of the composition. For example, increasing the level of ascorbic acid in the skin lightening composition will result in enhanced whitening of the skin. Unfortunately, in the past, it was difficult to increase this level because compositions which increased this level of ascorbic acid were unstable, especially because of the inability to eat due to physical properties such as the appearance of the product turning yellow or brown. However, Applicants have found that incorporating a structuring compound in a composition can maintain the original physical properties of ascorbic acid compounds and compositions thereof even when the composition contains relatively high levels of ascorbic acid compounds. This enhancement of stability is particularly effective in aqueous compositions.

A. Ascorbic Acid Compounds

The composition of the present invention comprises an ascorbic acid compound. Ascorbic acid compounds are selected according to their compatibility with other components. Ascorbic acid compounds may be included as substantially pure substances, for example extracts obtained by suitable physical and / or chemical isolation from natural raw materials (such as plants).

The composition of the present invention preferably contains about 1.0% to about 10.0%, more preferably about 2.0% to about 5.0% ascorbic acid compound.

Hereinafter, "ascorbic acid compound" is ascorbic acid or a derivative thereof of the following general formula (I); And salts thereof:

Wherein V and W are independently —OH; R ¹ is —CH (OH) —CH ₂ OH).

Preferably, ascorbic acid compounds useful in the present invention are ascorbic acid salts or derivatives thereof, such as non-toxic alkali metal, alkaline earth metal and ammonium salts commonly known to those skilled in the art, and sodium, potassium prepared by methods well known in the art. Lithium, calcium, magnesium, barium, ammonium and protamine salts include but are not limited to these.

More preferably, ascorbic acid salts useful in the present invention are metal ascorbates of the formula (II):

Wherein R ² and R ³ are independently selected from hydrogen and straight or branched chain alkyl of 1 to about 8 carbon atoms; M ¹ is a metal; x is an integer from 1 to about 3. More preferably, R ² and R ³ are independently selected from hydrogen and straight or branched chain alkyl of 1 to about 3 carbon atoms; M ¹ is sodium, potassium, magnesium, or calcium).

Examples of other preferred ascorbic acid salts of formula (II) include monovalent metal salts of ascorbic acid (eg, sodium ascorbate, potassium ascorbate), divalent metal salts (eg magnesium ascorbate, calcium ascorbate) and Trivalent metal salts (eg aluminum ascorbate).

Preferably, the ascorbic acid salts useful in the present invention are water soluble ascorbyl esters of formula (III):

Wherein A is a sulphate or phosphate; R ⁴ and R ⁵ are independently selected from hydrogen and straight or branched chain alkyl of 1 to about 8 carbon atoms; M ² is a metal; y is 1 to about 3 More preferably, R ⁴ and R ⁵ are independently selected from hydrogen and straight or branched chain alkyl of 1 to about 3 carbon atoms; M ² is sodium, potassium, magnesium, or calcium).

Examples of water soluble salt derivatives include L-ascorbyl phosphate ester salts such as sodium L-ascorbyl phosphate, potassium L-ascorbyl phosphate, magnesium L-ascorbyl phosphate, calcium L-ascorbyl phosphate, aluminum L Include, but are not limited to, ascorbyl phosphate. L-ascorbyl sulfate ester salts may also be used. Examples are sodium L-ascorbyl sulfate, potassium L-ascorbyl sulfate, magnesium L-ascorbyl sulfate, calcium L-ascorbyl sulfate and aluminum L-ascorbyl sulfate.

B. Charged, Reflective Granular Materials

The compositions of the invention also basically have a charge of from about 0.01% to about 5.0% by weight, preferably from about 0.1% to about 5.0%, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 2.0% by weight of the composition. , Reflective granular material ("charged material").

The charged material preferably consists of a reflective particulate material such as titanium dioxide coated with a coating material which gives a net charge greater than the zeta potential of the uncoated metal oxide. Such charged material is dispersible throughout the carrier.

Without being limited by theory, it is believed that reflective particulate materials such as titanium dioxide generally have relatively high surface activity, causing formulation instability. In addition, these reflective particulates have a tendency to agglomerate, such as to entangle, resulting in precipitation of the reflective particulate material. These problems can be solved by coating the reflective particulate material (metal oxide) with a coating material that gives a net charge greater than the zeta potential of the uncoated reflective particulate material. Typically, the coating material gives a zeta potential greater than about ± 20 mV (eg, in both positive and negative directions) at a pH of about 4 to about 8.5. This coating material also provides steric hindrance to the reflective particulate material, thereby preventing aggregation of such charged material. This provides stability of the formulation and prevents aggregation of reflective particulate material (metal oxides). Granular materials and charges thereof are well known to those skilled in the art, see Zeta Potential in Colloid Science: Principles and Application, R. J Hunter, Academic Press, 1981; Intermolecular and Surface Forces: With Applications to Colloidal and Biological Systems, J.N. Israelachvili, Academic Press, 1985; And Colloids and Surfaces, Physiochemical and Engineering Aspects, Hoogeven, N.G. Et al. Vol. 117, p. 77, 1966. All of these publications are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety.

Preferably, all of the charged materials have a net cationic charge or a net anionic charge. Since all particles have the same charge, it is believed that repulsive force prevents aggregation and leads to even dispersion throughout the hydrophilic phase. As a result, a lower concentration of reflective particulate material gives maximum visible reflection in the composition, (ii) does not produce aesthetically negative effects such as chalky and gritty feelings, and (i) reduces formulation instability. Let's do it. Thus, the use of charged materials provides effective coverage with relatively low levels of charged materials.

Charged materials useful in the compositions of the present invention will generally have a refractive index of at least about 2, more preferably at least about 2.5, such as from about 2 to about 3. The refractive index can be measured by conventional methods. For example, refractive index measurement methods applicable to the present invention are described in Range's Handbook of Chemistry, J.A. Dean, Ed., 14th Ed., McGraw Hill, New York, 1992, Chapter 9, Refractometry, which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety.

Preferred charged materials have a primary particle size of about 100 nm to about 300 nm, more preferably of about 100 nm to about 250 nm in pure form (ie, essentially pure, powder form prior to combination with any carrier). will be. Preferred charged materials have a primary particle size of about 100 nm to about 1000 nm, more preferably about 100 nm to about 400 nm, even more preferably about 200 nm to about 300 nm when dispersed in the composition. The primary particle size can be measured using (ASTM designation E20-85 "Standard Practice for Particle Size Analysis of Particulate Substances in the Range of 0.2 to 75 Micrometers by Optical Microscopy", ASTM Volume 14.02, 1993), It is included as a reference.

The particles can have a variety of shapes provided to provide the desired refractive index, including spherical, spheroidal, elliptical, layered, irregular, needled, and rod-like. Granules can be in various physical forms, including rutile, anatase or combinations thereof.

(Iii) Reflective granular material: The reflective granular material of the present invention is a particle of an inorganic material such as a metal oxide, preferably titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, zirconium dioxide, aluminum oxide, and combinations thereof, more preferably Is a particle of an inorganic material, such as titanium dioxide, zinc oxide and combinations thereof (the combination is intended to include not only mixtures of these particulate materials, but also particles consisting of one or more of these materials), most preferably basically The reflective particulate material may be a composite, such as a composite deposited on the core or a mixture mixed with other materials such as, but not limited to, silica, silicone, resin, mica, and nylon. have.

Inorganic particulate materials such as titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, zirconium dioxide, or aluminum oxide are commercially available from many sources. Examples of suitable particulate materials include Tronox ^™ (titanium dioxide based) and SAT-T CR837 (rutile titanium dioxide) available from US Cosmetics, titanium dioxide CR-50 available from Sangyo Kaisha, and Tayca Corporation. There is a possible titanium dioxide JA-1.

The composition may comprise other inorganic or organic particulate materials. However, it is preferred that the granular material in the composition of the present invention consist essentially of the particulate material disclosed in this section.

(Ii) Coating Material: The reflective particulate material disclosed above is preferably coated with a coating material that gives a net charge greater than the zeta potential of the uncoated reflective particulate material. Thus, if the net charge (cationic or anionic) given to the reflective particulate is greater than the untreated reflective particulate, any coating material can be used. However, all particulates in the composition are treated with the same net charge, preferably for the benefit of the repulsive forces between the reflective particulates, eg, do not mix the cationic coating material with the anionic coating material. However, those skilled in the art understand that a coating material having a small amount of counter charge can be used as long as the total repulsion is maintained.

Non-limiting examples of coating materials that give cationic charge include cationic polymers (natural and / or synthetic) and cationic surfactants. Preferred cationic coating materials are selected from the group consisting of chitosan, hydroxypropyl chitosan, quaternium-80, polyquaternium-7, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of coating materials that give anionic charge include, but are not limited to, anionic polymers (natural or synthetic) and anionic surfactants. Preferred anionic coating materials are ammonium polyacrylate, sodium polyacrylate, potassium polyacrylate, ethylene acrylic acid copolymer, hydrolyzed wheat protein polysiloxane copolymer, dimethicone copolyol phosphate, dimethicone copolyol acetate, dimethicone co Polyol laurate, dimethicone copolyol stearate, dimethicone copolyol behenate, dimethicone copolyol isostearate, dimethicone copolyol hydroxystearate, phosphate ester, sodium chondroiton sulfate, sodium hyaluronate , Ammonium hyaluronate, sodium alginate, ammonium alginate, ammonium laurate, sodium laurate, potassium laurate, ammonium myristate, sodium myristate, potassium myristate, ammonium palmitate, sodium palmitate, potassium palmitate , Ammonium stearate, sodium stearate, potassium stearate, ammonium oleate, sodium oleate, potassium oleate, and is selected from the group consisting of a mixture thereof. More preferred are anionic coating materials selected from the group consisting of ammonium polyacrylate, sodium polyacrylate, and mixtures thereof.

Charged materials (e.g., treated with coating materials) are available in basic, powdered form or in pre-dispersed form in various types of carriers, which include water, organic hydrophilic diluents, Lower monohydric alcohols (eg C _1-4 ) and low molecular weight glycols and polyols (propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol (eg molecular weight 200-600 g / mol), polypropylene glycol (eg molecular weight 425-2025 g / mol) , Glycerol, butylene glycol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, sorbitol ester, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, ethanol, isopropanol, sorbitol ester, butanediol, ether propanol, ethoxylated ether, propoxylated Ethers and combinations thereof), but is not limited thereto. Preferably, the charged particulate material is predispersed in water, glycerin, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, and mixtures thereof. Examples of commercially available charged particulate materials include Kobo BG60DC (predispersion of chitosan and butylene glycol treated with titanium dioxide), Kobo GLW75CAP (ammonium polyacrylate treated with titanium dioxide, water, and glycerin ), Kobo GLW75CAP-MP (a total dispersion of ammonium polyacrylate treated with titanium dioxide, water, glycerin, methylparaben, and propylparaben) are all available from Kobo Products Inc., South Plainfield, NJ. Available from.

C. Structural Compounds

The composition of the present invention includes a structuring compound. In the present invention, "structuring compound" refers to a compound that forms an organized structure, a gel network tissue, which tissue may be present in hydrophobic or hydrophilic components. Structural compounds are believed to help impart good flow properties to the composition that contribute to the stability and good aesthetic properties of the composition. Preferably, the structuring compound is present in the composition at about 1.0% to about 10.0%, more preferably at about 2.0% to about 8.0%.

Preferably, the structuring compound comprises a fatty alcohol and an amphoteric surfactant. Without wishing to be bound by theory, fatty alcohols, together with amphoteric surfactants, are directed in the direction to form a layered structure, thereby maintaining an oil phase and an aqueous phase. It is also believed that this organized structure, referred to as "fatty alcohol gel network tissue", contributes to the stability of the composition.

Fatty alcohols useful in the present invention are straight or branched chains, saturated fatty alcohols, selected from the group consisting of straight or branched chains, saturated C _12-30 fatty alcohols, straight or branched chains, saturated C _12-30 diols, and mixtures thereof. will be. Preferred fatty alcohols are cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, fatty alcohols useful in the present invention are present in the composition at about 1.0% to about 10.0%, more preferably at about 1.0% to about 5.0%.

Amphiphilic surfactants useful in the present invention include any of a wide variety of nonionic, cationic, anionic, amphoteric, amphoteric surfactants, as well as mixtures of these surfactants. Examples of a wide variety of additional surfactants useful in the present invention are disclosed in McCutcheon's Detergents and Emulsifiers, North American Edition (1986), published by Allured Publishing Corporation, which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety. Also U.S. Patent No. 4,800,197 (Kowcz et al., Jan. 24, 1989) also includes examples of surfactants useful in the present invention and are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety. Preferably, amphoteric surfactants useful in the present invention are present in the composition at about 1.0% to 10.0%, more preferably at about 2.0% to about 6.0%.

Preferred nonionic surfactants useful in the present invention are condensates of fatty acids and fatty alcohols with alkylene oxides (e.g., polyalkylene oxide moieties are esterified with fatty acids at one end and fatty alcohols at the other end. (Eg, linked via an ether bond). These materials have the general formula R ² CO (X ¹ ) _z OR ³ (wherein R ² and R ³ are independently alkyl having from about 10 to about 30 carbon atoms; X ¹ is for example ethylene glycol or oxide -OCH ₂ CH ₂ or -OCH ₂ CHCH ₃ -derived from propylene glycol or oxide; z is an integer from about 6 to about 100.

Other examples of such alkylene oxide-induced nonionic surfactants include cetes-6, cetes-10, cetes-12, ceteares-6, ceteares-10, ceteares-12, ceteares-20, Steares-6, Steares-10, Steares-12, Steares-20, Steares-21, Steares-100, PEG-6 Stearate, PEG-10 Stearate, PEG-12 Stearate, PEG- 100 stearate, PEG-10 glyceryl stearate, PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, PEG-30 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-80 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-80 glyceryl tallowate, PEG-200 glyceryl Tallowate, PEG-8 dilaurate, PEG-10 distearate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl monolaurate, glyceryl dilaurate and mixtures thereof.

The structuring compound may further comprise a co-thickener. Examples of co-thickeners useful in the present invention are polysaccharides, and materials derived primarily from natural raw materials (such as rubber).

A wide variety of polysaccharides known in the art can be used. As used herein, "polysaccharide" means a component comprising a main chain of repeating sugar (ie, carbohydrate) units. Non-limiting examples of such polysaccharides include cellulose, carboxymethyl hydroxyethylcellulose, cellulose acetate propionate carboxylate, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxyethyl ethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, methyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, sodium cellulose sulfate, and mixtures thereof.

Useful in the present invention are also alkyl substituted celluloses. In these polymers, the hydroxy groups of the cellulose polymers are hydroxyalkylated (preferably hydroxyethylated or hydroxypropylated) to form hydroxyalkylated cellulose which is further C _10-30 straight or branched through ether linkages. Modified with a chain alkyl group. Typically these polymers are ethers of C _10-30 straight or branched chain alcohols with hydroxyalkylcelluloses. Examples of alkyl groups useful in the present invention include stearyl, isostearyl, lauryl, myristyl, cetyl, isocetyl, cocoyl (ie, alkyl groups derived from alcohols of coconut oil), palmityl, oleyl, linoleyl, linolene One, ricinoleyl, behenyl, and mixtures thereof. Preferred among the alkyl hydroxyalkylcellulose ethers is a substance whose CTFA name is cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose, which is an ether of cetyl alcohol and hydroxyethylcellulose. This material is a trade name Natrosol from Aqualon Corporation. Available as CS Plus.

Other useful polysaccharides include scleroglucans consisting of a straight chain of (less than 3) bound glucose units with less than 6 bound glucose every 3 units, a commercially available example of which is Michel Mercier Products Inc. . Clearogel ^™ CS11 from Mountainside, NJ.

Non-limiting examples of rubbers include acacia, agar, algin, alginic acid, ammonium alginate, amylopectin, calcium alginate, calcium carrageenan, carnitine, carrageenan, dextrin, gelatin, gellan gum, guar gum, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, Hectorite, hyalurophosphate, hydrated silica, hydroxypropyl chitosan, hydroxypropyl guar, karaya gum, kelp, locust bean gum, natto gum, potassium alginate, potassium carrageenan, propylene glycol alginate, sclero Lithium gum, sodium carboxymethyl dextran, sodium carrageenan, tragacanth gum, xanthan gum, and mixtures thereof.

D. Cosmetically Acceptable Carriers

The composition of the present invention contains a cosmetically acceptable carrier. In the present invention, "cosmetically acceptable carrier" means one or more compatible solid or liquid fillers, diluents, extenders, and the like, which are cosmetically acceptable as defined herein. As used herein, the term "compatibility" means that the components of the compositions of the present invention can be mixed with each other in a way that does not have an interaction that substantially reduces the efficacy of the composition under normal conditions of use.

Cosmetically acceptable carriers useful in the present invention are selected from the group consisting of hydrophobic components, hydrophilic liquid carriers, pH adjusters, water, and mixtures thereof. The type of carrier used in the present invention depends on the type of product desired and can be of several types, including but not limited to solutions, aerosols, emulsions (including oil-in-water or water-in-oil), gels, solids, and liposomes. It may consist of a carrier.

1) Hydrophobic Components

Hydrophobic constituents useful in the present invention include lipids, oils, oily or other hydrophobic constituents. Hydrophobic components are used as emollients.

A wide variety of suitable hydrophobic constituents are known and can be used in the present invention and many examples are described in Cosmetics, Science and Technology, 2nd Edition, Sagarin, Vol. 1, pp. 32-43, 1972. Non-limiting examples of suitable hydrophobic constituents include mineral oil, petrolatum, C _7-40 straight and branched chain hydrocarbons, C _1-30 alcohol esters, glycerides, alkylene glycol esters, propoxylated derivatives and ethoxylated derivatives, Sugar esters, vegetable oils and hydrogenated vegetable oils, animal fats and oils, and C _4-20 alkyl ethers of polypropylene glycol, C _1-20 carboxylic acid esters of polypropylene glycol, and di-C _8-30 alkyl ethers. Examples of hydrophobic constituents useful in the present invention are described in US Patent 5,306,514 to Letton et al., April 26, 1994; Merck Index, Tenth Edition, Entry 7048, p. 1033 (1983); And International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, Fifth Edition, vol. 1, p. 415-417 (1993).

Fatty acid sugar esters useful in the present invention include C _1-30 monoesters or sugars and polyesters of one or more carboxylic acid moieties, preferably having a degree of esterification of 7-8 and a fatty acid moiety of C ₁₈ mono- and / or di -Sucrose with unsaturated and behenic acid (molar ratio of unsaturated moiety to behenic moiety = 1: 7 to 3: 5), sucrose polyester, more preferably about 7 Behen fatty acid part and about 1 oleic acid part in the molecule Octaesters, such as sucrose esters of cottonseed oil fatty acids.

Preferably, the composition comprises about 2.0% to about 95.0%, more preferably about 40.0% to about 85.0% hydrophobic component. Hydrophobic components may include natural or synthetic (eg, artificial) components derived from animals, plants, or petroleum.

2) hydrophilic liquid carrier

The composition of the present invention may contain a hydrophilic liquid carrier (HLC). Preferred HLC may contain a dermatologically acceptable, non-aqueous hydrophilic diluent. Non-limiting examples of hydrophilic diluents include polyhydric alcohols such as low molecular weight monohydric alcohols (ie, C _1-6 ) and low molecular weight glycols and polyols (propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol ( For example, molecular weight 200-1000 g / mol), polypropylene glycol (eg, molecular weight 425-2025 g / mol), glycerol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, and its Combinations).

Preferably, the composition contains about 30% to about 95%, more preferably about 40% to about 90% of HLC. HLC comprises water and one or more water soluble or dispersible ingredients. The exact amount of water in the formulation will vary depending on the desired component selected and the range of optional ingredients.

3) pH adjuster

Cosmetically acceptable carriers useful in the present invention may also contain pH adjusters. In the present invention, "pH regulator" refers to any component used to increase or decrease the overall pH of the composition to an optimal pH, thereby preventing degradation of the component (especially ascorbic acid compound). The optimal pH depends on the choice of ascorbic acid compound. For example, when the composition comprises magnesium L-ascorbyl phosphate (MAP), the optimal pH is around 7.0 to about 8.0. Suitable pH adjusting agents in the present invention include acetate, phosphate, citrate, triethanolamine and carbonate. Often combinations of the above are used to adjust to a particular optimum pH for the composition. The total weight level of the composition of the pH adjuster is about 0.01% to about 5.0%, preferably about 0.5% to about 2.0%.

4) other active agents

Cosmetically acceptable carriers useful in the present invention may also include other active agents that may function in different ways to enhance and / or provide other benefits of the ascorbic acid compound. Examples of such substances include, but are not limited to, vitamin B ₃ compounds, antioxidants and radical scavengers, anti-inflammatory agents, antibacterial agents, sunburn and sunscreen agents, and chelating agents. Other active agents useful in the present invention include vitamin A (e.g., commercially available from many sources such as Sigma Chemical Company (St. Louis, MO), and Boerhinger Mannheim (Indianapolis, IN), US Pat. No. 4,677,120 (Parish et al.) , Issued June 30, 1987); US Patent 4,885,311 (Parish et al., December 5, 1989); US Patent 5,049,584 (Purcell et al., September 17, 1991); US Patent 5,124,356 (Purcell et al., June 23, 1992) And retinoids disclosed in Reissue Patent 34,075 (Purcell et al., Sep. 22, 1992); And vitamin K.

(i) Vitamin B ₃ Compounds: Vitamin B ₃ compounds enhance the benefits of the present invention on the appearance of the skin, particularly in controlling skin conditions, including controlling skin aging, more specifically the appearance of wrinkles, contours and pores. Let's do it. The vitamin B ₃ compound is preferably about 0.01% to about 50%, more preferably about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably about 0.5% to about 10%, and even more preferably about 1% to about Present at 5%.

In the present invention, "vitamin B ₃ compound" means a compound of the formula:

Wherein R is -CONH ₂ (eg niacinamide), -COOH (eg nicotinic acid) or -CH ₂ OH (eg nicotinyl alcohol); derivatives thereof; and salts of any of the above).

Examples of derivatives of the vitamin B ₃ compounds include nicotinic acid esters (including non-vascular expandable esters of nicotinic acid), nicotinyl amino acids, nicotinyl alcohol esters of carboxylic acids, nicotinic acid N-oxides and niacinamide N-oxides. Include.

Suitable esters of nicotinic acid include nicotinic acid esters having 1 to about 22 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to about 16 carbon atoms, and more preferably alcohols having about 1 to about 6 carbon atoms. Alcohols are suitably straight or branched chain, cyclic or bicyclic, saturated or unsaturated (including aromatic), and substituted or unsubstituted. The ester is preferably nonvascular dilatable. As used herein, "non vasodilatability" means that esters typically do not show a visible flushing reaction after application to the skin with the desired composition (although the compound may cause vasodilation not visible to the naked eye, people in general Most of them do not show a visible flushing reaction, ie the ester is non-rubifacient. Non-vascular expanding esters of nicotinic acid include tocopherol nicotinate and inositol hexanicotinate; Tocopherol nicotinate is preferred.

Another derivative of the vitamin B ₃ compound is a derivative of niacinamide resulting from substitution of at least one amide group hydrogen. Non-limiting examples of niacinamide derivatives useful in the present invention include, for example, nicotinyl amino acids derived from the reaction of an amino acid with an activated nicotinic acid compound (eg, nicotinic acid azide or nicotinyl chloride), and an organic carboxylic acid (eg, 1 carbon atom). To about 18 individuals) nicotinyl alcohol ester. Specific examples of such derivatives include nicotinuric acid (C ₈ H ₈ N ₂ O ₃ ) and nicotinyl hydroxamic acid (C ₆ H ₆ N ₂ O ₂ ), the chemical formula of which is:

Nicotinuric acid:

Nicotinyl Hydroxanthate:

to be.

Examples of nicotinyl alcohol esters include nicotinyl alcohol esters such as carboxylic acid, salicylic acid, acetic acid, glycolic acid, palmitic acid and the like. Other non-limiting examples of vitamin B ₃ compounds useful in the present invention include 2-chloronicotinamide, 6-aminonicotinamide, 6-methylnicotinamide, n-methylnicotinamide, n, n-diethylnicotinamide, n- ( Hydroxymethyl) -nicotinamide, quinolinic acid imide, nicotinanilide, n-benzylnicotinamide, n-ethylnicotinamide, nifenazone, nicotinaldehyde, isoninicotinic acid, methyl isnicotinic acid, thioninicotinamide, nialamide, 1- (3-pyridylmethyl) urea, 2-mercaptonnicotinic acid, nicomol, and niaprazine.

Non-limiting examples of such vitamin B ₃ compounds are well known in the art and include a number of sources such as Sigma Chemical Company (St. Louis, MO); Commercially available from ICN Biomedicals, Inc. (Irvin, Calif.) And Aldrich Chemical Company (Milwaukee, Wis.).

One or more vitamin B ₃ compounds may be used in the present invention. Preferred vitamin B ₃ compounds are niacinamide and tocopherol nicotinate. Niacinamide is more preferred.

In use, the salts, derivatives, and salt derivatives of niacinamide are preferably those having substantially the same efficacy as niacinamide in the methods of controlling the skin conditions described herein.

In addition, salts of vitamin B ₃ compounds are useful in the present invention. Non-limiting examples of salts of the vitamin B ₃ compounds useful in the present invention are organic or inorganic salts, for example inorganic salts of anionic inorganic series (eg chloride, bromide, iodide, carbonate, preferably chloride), And organic carboxylic acid salts (mono-, di- and tri C _1-18 carboxylic acid salts such as acetates, salicylates, glycolates, lactates, maleates, citrates, preferably monocarboxylic acid salts such as acetates). Inclusive). Salts of these and other vitamin B ₃ compounds are described, for example, in "The Reaction of L-Ascorbic and D-Iosascorbic Acid with Nicotinic Acid and Its Amide" by W. Wenner, J. Organic Chemistry, Vol. 14, 22-26, 1949, can be readily prepared by those skilled in the art. Wenner describes the synthesis of ascorbic acid salts of niacinamide.

In a preferred embodiment, substantially the nitrogen ring of the vitamin B ₃ compound is chemically free (eg, unbound and / or uninterrupted), or substantially chemically free after delivery to the skin (“chemically free”). ”Is alternatively referred to as“ unattached ”). More preferably, the vitamin B ₃ compound is essentially uncomplexed. Therefore, if the composition contains a vitamin B ₃ compound in salt or other complexed form, when the composition is delivered to the skin, the complex is preferably substantially reversible, more preferably essentially reversible. For example, such complexes should be substantially reversible at pH about 5.0 to about 6.0. Such reversibility can be readily determined by one skilled in the art.

More preferably the vitamin B ₃ compound is substantially uncomplexed in the composition prior to delivery to the skin. Examples of methods for minimizing or preventing the formation of undesired complexes include omitting materials that are substantially irreversible or forming other complexes of vitamin B ₃ , pH adjustment, adjustment of ionic strength, use of surfactants, and formulation Oxidation, wherein the vitamin B ₃ compound and the substance complexed thereto are different phases. Such methods are within the ordinary skill level of the art.

Thus, in a preferred embodiment, the vitamin B ₃ compound contains a limited amount of salt form, more preferably substantially free of salts of the vitamin B ₃ compound. Preferably the vitamin B ₃ compound contains less than about 50% of the salt, more preferably it is essentially free of salt form. Vitamin B ₃ compounds in their compositions having a pH of about 4 to about 7 typically contain less than about 50% salt.

Vitamin B ₃ compounds may be included as substantially pure substances or as extracts obtained by suitable physical and / or chemical isolation from natural (eg plant) sources. The vitamin B ₃ compound is preferably substantially pure, more preferably essentially pure.

(ii) Antioxidants and Radical Scavengers: Antioxidants and radical scavengers are used for UV irradiation, which can cause increased scaling of the stratum corneum or changes in texture, and other environmental agents that can cause skin damage. It is especially useful for providing protection against.

Antioxidants and radical scavengers such as tocopherol (vitamin E), tocopherol sorbate, tocopherol acetate, other esters of tocopherol, butylated hydroxy benzoic acid and salts thereof, 6-hydroxy-2,5,7,8-tetra Methylchroman-2-carboxylic acid (trade name Trolox) ), Gallic acid and alkyl esters thereof, in particular propyl gallate, uric acid and salts thereof and alkyl esters, sorbic acid and salts thereof, amines (ie, N, N-diethylhydroxylamine, aminoguanidine), sulfhi Drill compounds (ie glutathione), dihydroxy fumaric acid and salts thereof, lysine pydolate, arginine pyrrolate, nordihydroguaiaretic acid, bioflavonoids, lysine, methionine, proline, superoxidized dismutase, silymarin, Tea extracts, grape skin / seed extracts, melanin, and rosemary extracts can be used. Preferred antioxidants / radical scavengers are selected from tocopherol sorbate and other esters of tocopherol, more preferably tocopherol sorbate. For example, the use of tocopherol sorbate in topical compositions applicable to the present invention is described in US Pat. No. 4,847,071 (Bissett et al., July 11, 1989).

(iii) Anti- inflammatory agents: Anti- inflammatory agents enhance the benefits on skin appearance, for example by the contribution of uniformity and acceptable skin tone and / or color.

Preferably, the anti-inflammatory agent includes a steroidal anti-inflammatory agent and a nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory agent. Preferred steroidal anti-inflammatory agents for use are hydrocortisone

Various compounds included in this group are well known to those skilled in the art. For a detailed description of the chemical structure, synthesis, and side effects of nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory agents, see Anti-inflammatory and Anti-Rheumatic Drugs, K. D. Rainsford, Vol. I-III, CRC Press, Boca Raton, 1985, and Anti-inflammatory Agents, Chemistry and Pharmacology, 1, RA Scherrer et al., Academic Press, New York, 1974 (each referenced herein by reference) Included) can be the standard source.

So-called "natural" anti-inflammatory agents are also useful. The formulations may suitably be obtained as extracts by suitable physical and / or chemical isolation from natural raw materials (ie by-products of plants, fungi, microorganisms). For example, Alpha bis-Avorol, Aloe Vera, Manjistha (Rubia), especially Rubia Cordifolia, and Guggal (Commiphora) , In particular from Commiphora Mukul), cola extracts, bleach, and sea whip extracts.

Further anti-inflammatory agents useful in the present invention include glycyrrhic acid, glycyric acid, and derivatives thereof such as salts and esters, such as licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra genus / species plants). It includes a compound of the family. Suitable salts of these compounds include metal and ammonium salts. Suitable esters include C _{2 to 24} , preferably C _{10 to 24} , more preferably C _{16 to 24} saturated or unsaturated esters of acids.

(iv) Antimicrobial Agent: As used herein, "antimicrobial agent" means a compound capable of destroying microorganisms to prevent the occurrence of microorganisms or to prevent the pathogenic action of microorganisms. Antibacterial agents are useful, for example, in inhibiting acne. Preferred antibacterial agents useful in the present invention are benzoyl peroxide, erythromycin, tetracycline, clindamycin, azelaic acid, sulfur resorcinol phenoxyethanol, and Irgasan ^™ DP 300 (Ciba Geigy Corp., USA). The amount of safe and effective antimicrobial agent may be added to the compositions of the present invention preferably from about 0.001% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.01% to about 5%, even more preferably from about 0.05% to about 2%. .

(v) Sunscreens and sunblocks: Sunscreens and sunscreens typically prevent excessive scaling and texture changes of the stratum corneum by UV exposure and can be added to the compositions of the present invention. Suitable sunburn and sunscreen agents can be organic or inorganic.

A wide variety of conventional sunburn and sunscreen agents are suitable for use in the present invention. US Patent 5,087,445 to Haffey et al., Feb. 11, 1992; US Patent 5,073,372 (Turner et al., Dec. 17, 1991); US Patent 5,073,371 (Turner et al., Dec. 17, 1991); And Cosmetics Science and Technology (1972), Segarin et al., Chapter 8, p. 189) disclose a number of suitable sunburn and sunscreen agents. Preferred among the sunburners and sunscreens useful in the composition are 2-ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate (commercially available from PASOL MCX), butylmethoxydibenzoyl-methane, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone , 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, octyldimethyl-p-aminobenzoic acid, octocrylene, 2-ethylhexyl N, N-dimethyl-p-aminobenzoate, p-aminobenzoic acid, 2-phenylbenzimi Dazole-5-sulfonic acid, octocrylene, oxybenzone, homomentyl salicylate, octyl salicylate, 4,4'-methoxy-t-butyldibenzoylmethane, 4-isopropyl dibenzoylmethane, 3-benzyl Leeden camphor, 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, silica, iron oxide, Eusolex ^™ 6300, Octocrylene, Parsol 1789, and mixtures thereof.

In addition, U.S. Patent 4,937,370 to Sabatelli, June 26, 1990, and U.S. Sunburn and sunscreen agents such as those disclosed in Patent 4,999,186 to Sabatelli, March 12, 1991, are particularly useful in the compositions. The sunburn and sunscreen disclosed above have two distinct chromophore moieties in a single molecule that exhibit different ultraviolet radiation absorption spectra. One part of the chromophore absorbs predominantly in the UVB range and the other strongly absorbs in the UVA range. The sunburn and sunscreen provide higher efficacy, broader UV absorption, lower skin penetration and longer lasting efficacy compared to conventional sunburn and sunscreen.

The exact amount will vary depending on the sunburn agent selected and the desired sun protection index (SPF). SPF is a measure of light protection of sunburn against commonly used erythema. August 25, 1978 [Federal Register, Vol. 43, No. 166, pp. 38206-38269.

In the present invention, sunburn agents or sunscreen agents can also be added to improve the skin, in particular to enhance the resistance to being washed off or rubbed off by water. Preferred sunburners and sunscreens that would provide the above advantages are copolymers of ethylene and acrylic acid. The composition comprising the copolymer is U.S. Patent 4,663,157 (Brock, May 5, 1987).

(vi) Chelating Agents: As used herein, "chelating agents" refer to compounds that react to remove metal ions from the system by forming complexes so that the metal ions cannot easily participate or catalyze chemical reactions. Including chelating agents is particularly useful to provide protection against UV radiation, which can cause excessive scaling or skin feel changes, and other environmental agents that can cause skin damage.

Examples of chelating agents useful in the present invention are described in U.S. Pat. Patent 5,487,884 to Bissett et al., Jan. 30, 1996; PCT applications 91/16035 and 91/16034 (Bush et al., Published October 31, 1995). Preferred chelating agents are furyldioxime and derivatives thereof.

4) other components

In addition to the components disclosed above, the compositions of the present invention may further contain preservatives and preservative enhancers such as water-soluble or solubilizing preservatives (Germall 115, methyl, ethyl, propyl and butyl esters of hydroxybenzoic acid, benzyl alcohol, EDTA, Bronopol (2- Bromo-2-nitropropan-1,3-diol) and phenoxypropanol); Other skin lightening / smoothing agents (including kojic acid, arbutin); WO 95/23780 (Kvalnes et al., Published Sep. 8, 1995); Skin conditioning agents; Skin penetration enhancers; Skin protectants; Skin softeners; Skin treatments; Ultraviolet absorbers or dispersants; Isolation; Antiacnetics; Anti-androgens; Hair loss agents; Keratin solubilizers / epidermis removers / peelants such as salicylic acid; Panthenol humectants such as D-panthenol; Soluble or colloidal-soluble moisturizers such as hyaluronic acid and starch grafted sodium polyacrylates such as Sanwet ^™ IM-1000, IM-1500 and IM-2500 (Celanese Superabsorbent Materials, Portsmith, VA, USA and available from US Patent 4,076,633); Proteins and polypeptides and derivatives thereof; Organic hydroxy acids; Drug astringents; External painkillers; Film formers; Absorbents (including oil absorbents such as clay and polymeric absorbents); abrasive; Anticaking agents; Antifoam; Binders; Biological additives; Bulking agents; coloring agent; Fragrances, essential oils and solubilizers thereof; Natural extracts; Collagen producing stimulating compounds.

E. Methods of Making the Composition

The compositions of the present invention are usually prepared by any method commonly used for the supply of skin care compositions, in particular in skin lotions, which are known in the art. This involves mixing the components in a relatively uniform state in one or more steps. Conventional methods are described, for example, in Harry's Cosmeticology, 7th Ed., Harry & Wilkinson, Hill Publishers, London, 1982.

The following examples further describe and describe embodiments within the scope of the present invention. The examples are given solely for the purpose of illustration and should not be understood as limitations of the invention, and many variations thereof are possible without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention. Applicable ingredients are identified by chemical name or CTFA name or otherwise defined below.

The compositions shown below can be prepared by any of the conventional methods known in the art. Suitable methods and formulations are as follows: (unit%)

Chemical name A B C Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate 4.000 3.000 - Sodium ascorbyl phosphate - - 2.000 KOBO GLW75CAP-MP ¹ 0.670 1.330 2.000 Stearyl alcohol - 1.500 - Cetyl alcohol - - 1.500 Xanthan gum 0.200 0.020 0.500 Fatty acid esters of sugars - 1.000 0.500 Glycerol 5.000 9.000 7.000 Glyceryl Monostearate 3.000 3.000 PEG 100 Stearate 0.300 - - Ceteares-10 - 0.400 0.200 Steares-21 - 0.200 0.300 Isononyl isononanoate 6.000 5.000 3.000 Sodium citrate 1.000 1.000 1.000 water Up to 100%

The composition is suitably prepared as follows:

(1) dissolving the water-soluble content except the ascorbic acid compound and sodium citrate and heating the solution to about 75 ° C .;

(2) separate separate aqueous solutions of ascorbic acid compound and sodium citrate and cool the mixture to about 40 ° C. or less;

(3) (1) and (2) are mixed and maintained at a temperature of about 75 ° C;

(4) heating the mixture of the structuring compound and the oil component to about 80 ° C .;

(5) adding the mixture (4) to the aqueous phase 3 and performing high pressure homogenization;

(6) KOBO GLW75CAP-MP and glycerin are added to the mixture (5) at about 30 ° C.

The embodiments shown and described above have many advantages. For example, the compositions herein contain increased levels of ascorbic acid compounds for skin whitening, exhibiting improved product aesthetics such as product appearance that does not turn yellow or brown even if stored for an extended period of time.

The foregoing detailed description of embodiments and embodiments of the invention has been given for the purpose of illustration only, and numerous modifications and variations may be apparent to those skilled in the art without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention; It is understood that such obvious modifications and variations are included in the scope of the appended claims.

Claims (8)

A composition consisting of the following materials: (a) ascorbic acid compounds; (b) charged, reflective particulate material; (c) structuring compounds; And (d) Cosmetically acceptable carrier. The composition of claim 1 wherein the structuring compound consists of a fatty alcohol and an amphoteric surfactant. The composition of claim 2 wherein the cosmetically acceptable carrier is selected from the group consisting of hydrophobic components, hydrophilic liquid carriers, pH adjusters, and mixtures thereof. The cosmetically acceptable carrier of claim 2 further comprising a vitamin B ₃ compound, an antioxidant and a radical scavenger, an anti-inflammatory agent, an antibacterial agent, a sunburn agent and a sunscreen agent, and one other active agent selected from the group consisting of chelating agents. Composition consisting of the above. 5. The composition of claim 4, wherein the structuring compound further comprises a co-thickener selected from the group consisting of rubber and polysaccharides. A composition consisting of the following materials: (a) about 1.0% to about 10.0% of ascorbic acid compound; (b) about 0.01% to about 5.0% of charged, reflective particulate material; (c) about 1.0% to about 10.0% of the structuring compound; And (d) about 30.0% to about 95.0% cosmetically acceptable carrier. 7. The composition of claim 6, wherein the structuring compound consists of about 1.0% to 10.0% fatty alcohol and about 1.0% to 10.0% amphoteric surfactant. 8. The cosmetically acceptable carrier of claim 7, wherein the cosmetically acceptable carrier consists of about 2.0% to about 95.0% hydrophobic component, about 30.0% to about 95.0% hydrophilic liquid carrier, and about 0.01% to about 5.0% pH adjuster. A composition, characterized in that.