KR20000031305A - Process for producing different shrinkage mixing yarn fabric having excellent appearance and feeling - Google Patents

Process for producing different shrinkage mixing yarn fabric having excellent appearance and feeling Download PDF

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Publication number
KR20000031305A
KR20000031305A KR1019980047280A KR19980047280A KR20000031305A KR 20000031305 A KR20000031305 A KR 20000031305A KR 1019980047280 A KR1019980047280 A KR 1019980047280A KR 19980047280 A KR19980047280 A KR 19980047280A KR 20000031305 A KR20000031305 A KR 20000031305A
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South Korea
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shrinkage
polyester polymer
yarn
inch
different shrinkage
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KR1019980047280A
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Korean (ko)
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KR100313565B1 (en
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김진홍
홍윤광
심수경
허택균
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김윤
주식회사 삼양사
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D1/00Garments
    • A41D1/18Blouses
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D1/00Garments
    • A41D1/22Clothing specially adapted for women, not otherwise provided for
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D13/00Professional, industrial or sporting protective garments, e.g. surgeons' gowns or garments protecting against blows or punches
    • A41D13/0015Sports garments other than provided for in groups A41D13/0007 - A41D13/088
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D01NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
    • D01DMECHANICAL METHODS OR APPARATUS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS
    • D01D5/00Formation of filaments, threads, or the like
    • D01D5/28Formation of filaments, threads, or the like while mixing different spinning solutions or melts during the spinning operation; Spinnerette packs therefor
    • D01D5/30Conjugate filaments; Spinnerette packs therefor
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D01NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
    • D01FCHEMICAL FEATURES IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS; APPARATUS SPECIALLY ADAPTED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF CARBON FILAMENTS
    • D01F8/00Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof
    • D01F8/04Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof from synthetic polymers
    • D01F8/14Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof from synthetic polymers with at least one polyester as constituent
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G1/00Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics
    • D02G1/18Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics by combining fibres, filaments, or yarns, having different shrinkage characteristics

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Physical Education & Sports Medicine (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)

Abstract

PURPOSE: Provided is a process for producing a different shrinkage mixing yarn fabric which has excellent bulkiness, lubrication and draftiness improved by conjugated spinning polyester polymer by using conventional polyester polymer. Thereby, it is possible to improve lubrication, bulkiness, feeling, wearring property and it is possible to obtain the conjugated spinning polyester polymer by using the conventional polyester polymer. CONSTITUTION: The process comprises the steps of: combining a conjugated spinning high shrinkage polyester polymer with conventional polyester polymer; weaving warp and weft into plain weave. The different shrinkage mixing yarn is suitable 8-14% of shrinkage ratio(SR). If shrinkage ratio is more than 14%, different shrinkage effect is appeared excessively, so that lubrication is decreased. If shrinkage ratio is less than 8%, different shrinkage effect is deficient, so that bulkiness and drapability are decreased.

Description

외관과 촉감이 우수한 이수축 혼섬사 직물의 제조방법Manufacturing method of biaxial blended yarn with excellent appearance and feel

본 발명은 외관과 촉감이 우수한 이수축 혼섬사 직물의 제조방법에 관한 것이다.The present invention relates to a method for producing a biaxial blended yarn fabric having excellent appearance and feel.

이수축혼섬사 직물을 제조하기 위한 종래의 방법은 연신조건을 달리하여 제조한 고수축사와 저수축사를 조합시키는 것이였는데, 이 방법은 저수축사가 호부 공정등의 열처리시에도 잔류수축율이 남아있게 되고, 상기 잔류수축율이 염색등의 후가공 공정이 진행됨에 따라 수축되어 최종가공제품에서의 고수축사와 저수축사간의 수축율차이가 좁혀져 이수축효과가 미흡하였다. 또한 고수축사와 저수축사의 조합에 채택되고 있는 인터레이스(Interlace)나 타스란(Taslan)등의 공기교락 가공방법은 제직 준비나 제직공정등의 공정에서 공정통과성이 양호한 점과 고수축사와 저수축사의 분리현상을 방지할 수 있다는 잇점을 갖고 있으나, 상기 가공사는 교락부와 비교락부가 혼재하므로 최종가공제품에서 교락부와 비교락부와의 염차 및 요철에 의하여 스트리키 (streaky)현상등이 많이 발생하여 깨끗한 표면을 얻을 수 없다는 결점이 있다.The conventional method for producing bi-shrink blended yarn fabric was to combine the high shrink yarn and the low shrink yarn manufactured by varying the stretching conditions. The residual shrinkage shrinks as the post-processing process, such as dyeing, progresses, and the shrinkage difference between the high shrinkage yarn and the low shrinkage yarn in the final processed product is narrowed, thereby insufficient the shrinkage effect. In addition, the interlacing and taslan method of air entanglement, which is adopted in the combination of high and low shrinkage yarns, has good process permeability in processes such as weaving preparation and weaving, and high shrinkage and low shrinkage. Although it has the advantage of preventing the separation of the yarn, the processing yarn is mixed with the entanglement and the non-lacing part, so many streaky phenomena occur due to salt and irregularities between the entanglement and the non-lacing part in the final processed product. There is a drawback that a clean surface cannot be obtained.

본 발명의 목적은 고수축 특성을 갖는 개질 폴리에스테르 폴리머와 통상의 폴리에스터 폴리머를 복합방사하여 제조한 이수축혼섬사를 경, 위사로 사용하여 풍부한 부피감과 우수한 드레이프성, 부드러운 촉감을 내는 이수축 혼섬사 직물의 제조방법을 제공하는데 있다.An object of the present invention is to use a di-shrink blended yarn prepared by complex spinning a modified polyester polymer having a high shrinkage property and a conventional polyester polymer as a light and weft yarn to give a rich volume, excellent drape, and soft touch. It is to provide a method for producing a yarn fabric.

본 발명을 상세히 설명하면 다음과 같다. 본 발명에서 사용한 이수축혼섬사는 직물표면에 이수축효과가 우수하게 발현되도록 고수축성 개질 폴리에스터 폴리머와 통상의 폴리에스터 폴리머를 토출시켜서 복합방사하여 제조한다. 상기 원사를 경, 위사로 사용하여 평직으로 제직한다. 상기 이수축혼섬사는 수축율(SR)이 8 ∼ 14%인 것이 좋다. 만일 14%를 초과하면 이수축효과가 과대하게 발현되어 평활성이 떨어져 바람직하지 않으며, 또 8%미만일 경우 가공 후 이수축 효과가 충분히 나타나지 않아 벌키감과 드레이프성이 크게 떨어진다.The present invention is described in detail as follows. The bishrink blended yarn used in the present invention is produced by composite spinning by discharging a highly shrinkable modified polyester polymer and a conventional polyester polymer so that the shrinking effect is excellently expressed on the fabric surface. The yarn is woven into plain weave using light and weft yarns. The biaxial blended fiber may have a shrinkage ratio (SR) of 8 to 14%. If it exceeds 14%, the shrinkage effect is excessively expressed, so the smoothness is not preferable, and if it is less than 8%, the shrinkage effect is not sufficiently exhibited after processing, thereby significantly reducing the bulkiness and drape.

수축율(SR)은 다음과 같은 식으로 정의한다.Shrinkage rate (SR) is defined by the following equation.

L0- L1 L 0 -L 1

수축율(%) = ━━━━━━━ × 100Shrinkage (%) = ━━━━━━━ × 100

L0 L 0

(여기서, L0는 0.1g/d의 하중하에서 측정한 시료의 길이이고, L1은 시료를 일정한 길이로 100℃ 건열중 15분간 처리한 후 다시 100℃ 열수 중에서 무장력 상태로 15분간 수축시킨 후 L0과 같은 방법으로 측정한 길이임)(Wherein L 0 is the length of the sample measured under a load of 0.1 g / d, L 1 is the length of the sample after treatment for 15 minutes in 100 ℃ dry heat to a constant length and then shrinks again for 15 minutes in the tension state in 100 ℃ hot water) Measured in the same way as L 0 )

이때, 제직준비나 제직공정에서 작업성이 양호하도록 연신공정에서 교락처리하여 사용할 경우 가공후 교락부분으로 인하여 스트리키가 발생하여 직물의 표면이 깨끗하지 못하므로 본 발명에서는 교락처리를 하지 않고 그대로 사용하였다. 그결과 표면이 균일하고 평활한 직물을 얻을 수 있었다.At this time, when using the entanglement treatment in the stretching process to improve the workability in the weaving preparation or weaving process, because the streaks occur due to the entanglement after processing, the surface of the fabric is not clean, so the present invention is used as it is without tangling treatment It was. As a result, a uniform and smooth fabric was obtained.

고수축성 개질 폴리에스터 폴리머와 통상의 폴리에스터 폴리머를 복합방사하여 제조한 원사를 경, 위사로 사용하여 직물을 제조할 때 경, 위사밀도는 이수축을 효과적으로 균일하게 나타내는 중요한 요소로 작용하는데 경사는 160 ∼ 200본/인치가 적당하며 위사밀도는 90 ∼ 110본/인치로 하는 것이 좋다. 만일 경사밀도가 160본/인치 미만이면 직물에 탄발력이 저하되고 슬립이 발생하게 되며, 200본/인치를 초과하면 표면의 평활성이 떨어지게 된다.When weaving fabrics made of a composite yarn of a high shrinkage modified polyester polymer and a conventional polyester polymer as a light and weft yarn, the weft density acts as an important factor that effectively shows the shrinkage effectively. 160-200 bones / inch is suitable, and weft density should be 90-110 bones / inch. If the inclination density is less than 160 bones / inch, the elasticity of the fabric is reduced and slippage occurs. If the warp density exceeds 200 bones / inch, the surface smoothness is reduced.

또한 위사밀도가 90본/인치 미만이면 가공공정에서 경사방향으로 과다하게 수축하여 직물의 평활성과 드레이프성이 떨어지고 슬립이 발생한다. 또한 110본/인치를 초과하면 가공공정에서 위사방향으로 과다한 수축이 일어나 직물에 경사방향으로 약한 줄무늬(스트리키현상)가 형성되며, 경사중량 : 위사중량의 비율중 위사중량비율이 1을 초과하므로 생산성이 떨어지고 제조원가가 상승하게 된다.In addition, when the weft density is less than 90 bones / inch, excessive shrinkage in the inclined direction in the processing process causes the fabric to lose smoothness and drape and slip. In addition, if it exceeds 110 bones / inch, excessive shrinkage occurs in the weft direction in the processing process, and a weak stripe (streaky phenomenon) is formed in the warp direction in the fabric, and the warp weight: the weft weight ratio of the weft weight ratio exceeds 1, Productivity decreases and manufacturing costs rise.

실시예Example

열수축율이 70%인 개질 폴리에스터 폴리머와 통상의 폴리에스터 폴리머(열수축율 5%)를 사용하여 섬도가 75데니어가 되도록 복합방사하였다. 이때 고수축 특성을 갖는 개질 폴리에스터 폴리머의 토출공수는 12구멍, 통상의 폴리에스터 폴리머의 토출공수는 60구멍이었다. 상기 원사의 수축율(SR)(%)은 14%였으며 연신공정에서 공기교락하지 않았다. 상기 원사를 호부하여 경사로 사용하되 경사밀도 185본/인치로, 위사는 무연으로 90본/인치의 밀도로 평직으로 제직하였다. 이것을 통상의 후가공 방법으로 정련, 프리세트, 감량, 염색, 수지가공 등을 거친 결과 벌키감이 우수하며, 표면이 평활하고 스트리키현상이 없으며 탄발력과 드레이프성이 우수한 이수축혼섬사 직물을 얻을 수 있었다.Using a modified polyester polymer having a heat shrinkage of 70% and a conventional polyester polymer (5% heat shrinkage), the composite was spun to have a fineness of 75 deniers. At this time, the discharge hole of the modified polyester polymer having high shrinkage characteristics was 12 holes, and the discharge hole of the conventional polyester polymer was 60 holes. The percent shrinkage (%) of the yarn was 14% and there was no air entanglement in the stretching process. The yarn was used as a warp yarn, but the warp density was 185 pieces / inch, and the weft was woven into plain weave with a density of 90 pieces / inch. This is a conventional post-processing method, which has undergone refinement, presetting, weight loss, dyeing, resin processing, etc., resulting in excellent bulkiness, smooth surface, no streaky phenomenon, and excellent elasticity and drape. there was.

비교예 1Comparative Example 1

실시예에서 사용한 원사로서 수축율(SR)이 7%인 것을 사용하여 실시예와 동일한 조건으로 제직, 가공하여 직물을 제조하고 그 결과를 표 1에 나타내었다.The yarn used in the example was used to produce a fabric by weaving and processing under the same conditions as in the example using a 7% shrinkage (SR) of the yarn and the results are shown in Table 1.

비교예 2Comparative Example 2

준비공정에서 작업이 용이하도록 실시예에서 사용한 원사를 연신공정에서 공기교락하여 실시예와 같은 조건으로 제직하고 가공하여 직물을 제조하고 그 결과를 표 1에 나타내었다.In order to facilitate the work in the preparation process, the yarn used in the example in the drawing process by air-weaving and weaving and processing under the same conditions as in Example to prepare a fabric and the results are shown in Table 1.

비교예 3Comparative Example 3

실시예와 동일한 원사를 사용하고 경사밀도를 100본/인치, 위사밀도를 90본/인치로 제직하여 실시예와 동일한 방법으로 직물을 제조하고 그 결과를 표 1에 나타내었다.Using the same yarn as in Example, weaving was inclined density of 100 bone / inch, weft density of 90 bone / inch to prepare a fabric in the same manner as in Example and the results are shown in Table 1.

비교예 4Comparative Example 4

실시예와 동일한 원사를 사용하고 경사밀도를 210본/인치, 위사밀도를 90본/인치로 제직하여 실시예와 동일한 방법으로 직물을 제조하고 그 결과를 표 1에 나타내었다.Using the same yarn as in Example, weaving density of 210 bone / inch, weft density of 90 bone / inch to prepare a fabric in the same manner as in Example and the results are shown in Table 1.

비교예 5Comparative Example 5

실시예와 동일한 원사를 사용하고 경사밀도를 185본/인치, 위사밀도를 120본/인치로 제직하여 실시예와 동일한 방법으로 직물을 제조하고 그 결과를 표 1에 나타내었다.Using the same yarn as in the example, weaving the warp density of 185 / inch, weaving density of 120 bone / inch to prepare a fabric in the same manner as in Example and the results are shown in Table 1.

비교예 6Comparative Example 6

비교예 3 과 동일한 원사를 사용하고 경사밀도를 185본/인치, 위사밀도를 90본/인치로 제직하여 실시예와 동일한 방법으로 직물을 제조하고 그 결과를 표 1 에 나타내었다.Using the same yarn as in Comparative Example 3, weaving the warp density of 185 cases / inch, weft density of 90 cases / inch to prepare a fabric in the same manner as in Example and the results are shown in Table 1.

구 분division 벌키감Bulky 탄발력Elasticity 평활성Smoothness 드레이프성Drape Castle 스트리키현상Streaky phenomenon 슬립발생Slip 실 시 예Example 4.54.5 0.1270.127 없음none 없음none 비교예 1Comparative Example 1 2.52.5 0.1750.175 없음none 있음has exist 비교예 2Comparative Example 2 4.54.5 0.1270.127 있음has exist 없음none 비교예 3Comparative Example 3 33 ×× ×× 0.1400.140 없음none 있음has exist 비교예 4Comparative Example 4 4.04.0 0.1750.175 없음none 없음none 비교예 5Comparative Example 5 4.54.5 0.1630.163 없음none 없음none 비교예 6Comparative Example 6 4.44.4 ×× 0.1760.176 있음has exist 있음has exist

※ ◎ : 매우우수, ○ : 우수, △ : 보통, × : 불량※ ◎: Very good, ○: Excellent, △: Normal, ×: Poor

※ 벌키감 : 카와바타(KAWABATA) 시스템에서 평가한 결과로※ Bulkiness: As a result of evaluation by KAWABATA system

4.0 이상이면 매우 우수한 것임4.0 or more is very good

※ 평활성 : 10명의 관능평가에 의함※ Smoothness: 10 sensory evaluation

※ 드레이프성 : 카와바타(KAWABATA) 시스템에서 평가한 결과로※ Drape: As a result of evaluation by KAWABATA system

0.130 이하이면 매우 우수한 것임Less than 0.130 is very good

※ 스트리키현상 : 육안판정※ Streaky phenomenon: Visual judgment

※ 슬립발생유무 : SKS에 의한 판정※ Slip occurrence: Determination by SKS

본 발명으로 제조된 직물은 표면이 평활하고 우수한 벌키감과 부드러운 촉감을 가짐으로 여성용 정장 및 브라우스에 적합하고, 또 착용감 및 쾌적성이 우수하여 골프용 외의류용으로도 적합하다.The fabric produced by the present invention has a smooth surface and excellent bulkiness and a soft touch, and is suitable for women's suits and blouses.

Claims (1)

고수축성 개질폴리에스터 필라멘트와 통상의 저수축성 폴리에스터 필라멘트로 되어있으며 수축율(SR)이 8 ∼ 14%인 이수축혼섬 폴리에스터 멀티필라멘트사를 공기교락없이 경, 위사에 사용하고, 경사밀도 160 ∼ 200본/인치, 위사밀도 90 ∼ 100본/인치가 되도록 제직함을 특징으로 하는 외관과 촉감이 우수한 이수축혼섬사 직물의 제조방법.It is composed of high shrinkage modified polyester filament and ordinary low shrinkage polyester filament, and the shrinkage ratio (SR) of 8-14% is used for warp and weft yarns without warpage. A method for producing a biaxial blended yarn fabric having excellent appearance and feel, characterized by being woven to have 200 bones / inch and a weft density of 90 to 100 bones / inch.
KR1019980047280A 1998-11-05 1998-11-05 Manufacturing Method of Shrinkage Blended Fabric with Excellent Appearance and Feel KR100313565B1 (en)

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Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
KR100853471B1 (en) * 2008-03-17 2008-08-21 주식회사 넥스텍 Swede fabrics preparing artificial leather

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
KR930011949B1 (en) * 1991-12-20 1993-12-22 동양나이론 주식회사 Process for manufacturing textured mixing yarn having a differential shrinking

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
KR100853471B1 (en) * 2008-03-17 2008-08-21 주식회사 넥스텍 Swede fabrics preparing artificial leather

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