KR102649863B1 - A cosmetic composition for enhancing elasticity - Google Patents

Abstract

The cosmetic composition for improving skin elasticity according to the present invention provides immediate elasticity to the skin due to the formation of a flexible skin protective film when applied to the skin, and not only has a moisturizing effect, but also allows the functional ingredients to be effectively absorbed into the skin, thereby improving elasticity due to aging with continuous use. Deterioration can be improved.

Description

Cosmetic composition for enhancing skin elasticity {A cosmetic composition for enhancing elasticity}

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for improving skin elasticity, and more specifically, by containing a gemini-based surfactant, a polyol, and a functional ingredient, it provides immediate elasticity when applied to the skin, and allows the functional ingredient to be effectively absorbed into the skin, thereby protecting the dermis- It relates to a cosmetic composition that improves the epidermal layer and ultimately improves skin elasticity.

In our bodies, the skin is in direct contact with the external environment and is responsible for protecting our bodies from various harmful factors. However, the skin constantly undergoes changes, the most representative of which are the decline in skin function and visual beauty due to aging.

In general, decreased skin elasticity is caused by decreased production and destruction of elastin due to aging and weakening of skin cells (fibroblasts) caused by ultraviolet rays, etc. Elastin-decomposing enzymes are expressed in the skin by ultraviolet rays, etc., and these enzymes break down normal elastin in the skin, resulting in a decrease in skin elasticity. In addition, decreased skin elasticity is also caused by damage and decreased production of a protein called collagen, which makes up more than 70% of the skin dermis. Collagen is also broken down by a decomposing enzyme called collagenase, which is triggered by ultraviolet rays, etc.

In order to improve the skin concerns of reduced elasticity, considering the characteristics of skin with reduced elasticity, strengthening moisturizing, promoting cell differentiation through exfoliation of the stratum corneum, strengthening elastin and collagen to strengthen the dermal layer, or inhibiting elastin decomposition enzymes and preventing deformation. Although products with beneficial effects are being released, satisfaction is low due to limitations in effective absorption of the active ingredients into the skin and effectiveness. However, consumers want products that provide immediate elasticity improvement effects, such as massage, and are highly satisfied with products that allow them to immediately feel elasticity. To achieve this flexible feeling of use, products are being released using large amounts of polymer.

Therefore, satisfaction with existing products for improving skin elasticity is low, and there is an urgent need to develop cosmetics that provide immediate elasticity and have an excellent effect in improving skin elasticity with continuous use.

Korean Patent No. 10-1465109 (2014.11.19.)

Accordingly, the present inventors studied factors that can affect the improvement of skin elasticity in order to develop a cosmetic that immediately gives elasticity to the skin upon use and has skin elasticity and moisturizing effects with continuous use. As a result, it was found that the finishing touch immediately after application , the present invention was completed after discovering that factors affecting skin penetration and moisture of functional ingredients after application differ depending on the composition in the formulation.

Therefore, the purpose of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic composition for improving skin elasticity that provides immediate elasticity after application, has a continuous elasticity improvement effect, and has a moisturizing effect.

As a means to solve the above problem, the present invention

At least one gemini-type surfactant represented by Formula 1 below; polyol; and a cosmetic composition for improving skin elasticity comprising a functional ingredient that is macelignan, dihydromyricetin, or a mixture thereof:

[Formula 1]

In Formula 1, R ₁ and R ₃ are each an alkyl radical having 1 to 25 carbon atoms, R ₂ is a spacing group consisting of a linear or branched alkylene chain having 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and X and Y are -(C ₂ H ₄ O) _a -(C ₃ H ₆ O) _b Z group, respectively, where Z is a hydrogen atom or -CH ₂ -COOM, -SO ₃ M, -P(O)(OM) ₂ , -C ₂ H ₄ -SO ₃ M, -C ₃ H ₆ -SO ₃ M or -CH ₂ (CHOH) ₄ CH ₂ OH radical, where M is H, alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium or alkanolammonium ion. , a is an integer from 0 to 15, b is an integer from 0 to 10, a+b is an integer from 1 to 25, and n is an integer from 1 to 10.

The cosmetic composition for improving skin elasticity according to the present invention provides immediate elasticity to the skin due to the formation of a flexible skin protective film when applied to the skin, and not only has a moisturizing effect, but also allows the functional ingredients to be effectively absorbed into the skin, thereby improving elasticity due to aging with continuous use. Deterioration can be improved.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail.

The present invention includes at least one gemini-type surfactant represented by the following formula (1); polyol; and

It relates to a cosmetic composition for improving skin elasticity containing functional ingredients such as macelignan, dihydromyricetin, or a mixture thereof:

[Formula 1]

In Formula 1, R ₁ and R ₃ are each an alkyl radical having 1 to 25 carbon atoms, R ₂ is a spacing group consisting of a linear or branched alkylene chain having 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and X and Y are -(C ₂ H ₄ O) _a -(C ₃ H ₆ O) _b Z group, respectively, where Z is a hydrogen atom or -CH ₂ -COOM, -SO ₃ M, -P(O)(OM) ₂ , -C ₂ H ₄ -SO ₃ M, -C ₃ H ₆ -SO ₃ M or -CH ₂ (CHOH) ₄ CH ₂ OH radical, where M is H, alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium or alkanolammonium ion. , a is an integer from 0 to 15, b is an integer from 0 to 10, a+b is an integer from 1 to 25, and n is an integer from 1 to 10.

In this specification, the term "GEMINI type surfactant" refers to a surfactant that has two hydrophobic chains and two hydrophilic chains in one molecule, and has a structure in which the hydrophilic group or its vicinity is connected by a linking group. In the present invention, the gemini-type surfactant can have tens to thousands of times the surface activity compared to conventional surfactants, making it possible to produce stable emulsions even in small amounts, has good skin affinity, and is soft and adheres closely to the skin. It is a raw material that shows the feeling of use. Therefore, the surfactant can provide a firm elasticity immediately after application to the skin and can be used in cosmetics for elasticity products.

In the present invention, the gemini-type surfactant may be one in which R ₁ -CO- and R ₃ -CO- groups each contain 8 to 20 carbon atoms, for example, coconut containing lauric acid, myristic acid, etc. It may be a fatty acid. Additionally, in the _surfactant , the The space group R ₂ may be composed of a C ₁ -C ₃ linear alkylene chain, such as an ethylene (CH ₂ CH ₂ ) chain, and n may have the value of 1.

In the present invention, this type of surfactant has the INCI name sodium dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 sulfate and may be a surfactant represented by the following formula (2):

[Formula 2]

In the surfactant represented by Formula 2, PEG represents a CH ₂ CH ₂ O group, and cocoyl represents a coconut fatty acid portion.

In the present invention, the cosmetic composition may further include surfactants other than the gemini-type surfactant, such as glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate monocitrate, behenyl alcohol, sodium lauroyl lactylate, It further comprises one or more surfactants selected from the group consisting of cetostearyl alcohol, polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, PEG-100 stearate, ceteareth-30, ceteareth-25 and ceteareth-20. can do.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention may include a mixture of the gemini-type surfactant and glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate monocitrate, and behenyl alcohol.

When the cosmetic composition according to the present invention includes the above mixture, 10 to 20% by weight of sodium dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 sulfate, 30 to 40% by weight of glyceryl stearate, 10 to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the mixture. % glyceryl stearate monocitrate and 30 to 40% by weight behenyl alcohol. Gemini surfactants of this type can be used in mixtures with other surfactants in the form of the products sold by Sasol under the trade name Ceralution, in particular the following products:

ㆍCeralution H: Behenyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate citrate and sodium dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 sulfate

ㆍCeralution F: Sodium lauroyl lactylate and sodium decocoilethylenediamine PEG-15 sulfate.

In one embodiment, the Gemini-based surfactant used in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be a compound sold under the trade name Ceralution H by Sasol. The gemini-based surfactant is present in an amount of 1 to 20% by weight, for example, 5 to 20% by weight, 5 to 18% by weight, 5 to 15% by weight, 5 to 12% by weight, 5 to 10% by weight, 6% based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. to 20% by weight, 6 to 18% by weight, 6 to 15% by weight, 6 to 12% by weight, 6 to 10% by weight, 7 to 20% by weight, 7 to 18% by weight, 7 to 15% by weight, 7 to 12 Weight %, 7 to 10 weight %, 8 to 20 weight %, 8 to 18 weight %, 8 to 15 weight %, 8 to 12 weight %, 8 to 10 weight %, 9 to 20 weight %, 9 to 18 weight % , 9 to 15% by weight, and 9 to 12% by weight. If the gemini surfactant content is less than 1% by weight, a stable emulsion cannot be obtained, and if the content exceeds 20% by weight, the emulsion formulation has high hardness and poor floating properties, making it difficult to use as a cosmetic. It can happen.

In the present invention, the cosmetic composition includes functional ingredients for improving actual skin elasticity in the long term. The functional ingredient may be macelignan, dihydromyricetin, or a mixture thereof, for example, macelignan.

The macelignan is a compound represented by the following formula (3) and refers to a representative lignan-based compound found in Myristica fragrans, a perennial plant cultivated in tropical regions.

[Formula 3]

Maclignan and dihydromyricetin, which are functional ingredients of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention, can be obtained by separating, purifying, or synthesizing from nature, but are not limited thereto.

In the present invention, the macelignan, dihydromyricetin, or a mixture thereof may be included in an amount of 0.001 to 5% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

In addition, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further include polyol as a moisturizing ingredient to soften keratin and lipid components between epidermal cells so that functional ingredients can be easily absorbed into the skin. The polyol may include, but is not limited to, one or more selected from the group consisting of glycerin, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, PEG-8, and sorbitol.

In addition, in the present invention, the polyol is present in an amount of 1 to 40% by weight, for example, 1 to 6% by weight, 1 to 5% by weight, 1 to 4% by weight, 1 to 3% by weight, 1 to 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Weight %, 8 to 40% by weight, 8 to 30% by weight, 8 to 20% by weight, 8 to 18% by weight, 8 to 15% by weight, 8 to 14% by weight, 8 to 13% by weight, 8 to 12% by weight , 9 to 20% by weight, 9 to 18% by weight, 9 to 15% by weight, 9 to 14% by weight, 9 to 13% by weight, 9 to 12% by weight, 10 to 20% by weight, 10 to 15% by weight, 10 It may be included in 12% by weight. If the content of the polyol is less than 1% by weight, the desired keratin softening and moisturizing effect cannot be obtained, and if the content is more than 40% by weight, the feeling of use may be poor, making it difficult to commercialize it.

The cosmetic composition for improving skin elasticity according to the present invention may be an oil-in-water formulation. The oil-in-water cosmetic composition for improving skin elasticity can be prepared by mixing the ingredients described above in a physical manner. In the present invention, the method of mixing (blending or homogenizing) raw materials uses a known fine dispersion method, and the method is not particularly limited, but includes, for example, ultrasonic pulverization (sonication), microfluidization, homogenization ( Methods such as homogenization can be used. The method may be performed using known equipment such as an ultrahomogenizer, microfluidizer, or homomixer, but is not limited thereto. . In the following examples, an oil-in-water cosmetic composition for improving skin elasticity was prepared by mixing raw materials using a conventional homomixer.

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be used as a cosmetic composition such as lotion such as softening lotion or nutritional lotion, emulsion such as facial lotion, body lotion, cream such as nutritional cream, moisture cream, eye cream, essence, cosmetic ointment, spray, gel, pack, sunscreen, etc. , makeup base, foundation such as liquid type, solid type or spray type, powder, makeup remover such as cleansing cream, cleansing lotion, cleansing oil, cleansing foam, soap, body wash, etc.

In the present invention, in addition to the above ingredients, the cosmetic composition further contains fatty substances, organic solvents, solubilizers, thickeners and gelling agents, softeners, antioxidants, suspending agents, stabilizers, and foaming agents within the range that do not deteriorate the effectiveness of the composition. (foaming agent), fragrance, surfactant, water, ionic or non-ionic emulsifier, filler, sequestering agent and chelating agent, preservative, vitamin, blocking agent, wetting agent, essential oil, dye, pigment, hydrophilic or lipophilic. It may contain auxiliaries and carriers commonly used in the field of cosmetology, such as active agents, lipid vesicles or any other ingredients commonly used in cosmetics.

When the formulation of the cosmetic composition of the present invention is a paste, cream or gel, animal oil, vegetable oil, wax, paraffin, starch, tracant, cellulose derivative, polyethylene glycol, silicone, bentonite, silica, talc or zinc oxide are used as carrier ingredients. This can be used.

When the formulation of the cosmetic composition of the present invention is a solution or emulsion, a solubilizing or emulsifying agent is used as a carrier component, such as water, ethanol, isopropanol, ethyl carbonate, ethyl acetate, benzyl alcohol, benzyl benzoate, propylene glycol, Dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, 1,3-butyl glycol oil, glycerol aliphatic ester, PEG-8, polyethylene glycol, or sorbitan may be used.

The cosmetic composition for improving skin elasticity of the present invention can be used individually or in combination, or may be used in combination with other cosmetic compositions other than the present invention. In addition, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be used according to conventional usage methods, and the number of times of use can be varied depending on the user's skin condition or preference.

The advantages and features of the present invention and methods for achieving them will become clear by referring to the experimental examples and manufacturing examples described in detail below. However, the present invention is not limited to the experimental examples and manufacturing examples disclosed below, and will be implemented in various different forms. It is only intended to ensure that the disclosure of the present invention is complete and that those skilled in the art It is provided to fully inform the user of the scope of the invention.

Example 1 to 4. cosmetics Preparation of composition

In the examples, cosmetic compositions were prepared according to the composition in Table 1 below. First, the water phase and oil phase components were heated and dissolved at 70°C to 75°C, respectively, and then the oil phase was added to the water phase and emulsified for 10 minutes under conditions of 4,000 rpm to 6,000 rpm in a homomixer. After cooling it to 50°C, the functional ingredients were mixed by stirring for 10 minutes under the above conditions, and cooled to 30°C to prepare an oil-in-water cosmetic composition.

division Raw material name Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Example
4 (weight%) (weight%) (weight%) (weight%) Oily ingredients Glyceryl Stearate - - - - PEG-100 Stearate - - - - PEG-40 Stearate - - - - Ceralution H 5 7 10 10 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 10 10 10 10 squalane 5 5 5 5 shea butter 2 2 2 2 Water Ingredients Purified water To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100 glycerin - - - 10 Butylene glycol 2 2 2 2 Acrylate/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Tromethamine 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Functional
ingredient Mace lignan 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 1,2-hexanediol 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 Spices 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15

Comparative example 1 to 4. cosmetics Preparation of composition

In Comparative Example, a cosmetic composition was prepared in the same manner as the Example according to the composition in Table 2 below.

division Raw material name Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Comparative Example 3 Comparative example 4 (weight%) (weight%) (weight%) (weight%) Oily ingredients Glyceryl Stearate 0.5 0.5 0.5 - PEG-100 Stearate 0.5 0.5 0.5 - PEG-40 Stearate One One One - Ceralution H - - - 3.0 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 10 10 10 10 squalane 5 5 5 5 shea butter 2 2 2 2 Water Ingredients Purified water To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100 glycerin - - 10 - Butylene glycol 2 2 2 2 Acrylate/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Tromethamine 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 bass guitar Mace lignan - 0.5 0.5 - 1,2-hexanediol 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 Spices 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15

Experiment example 1. Evaluation of the effect of improving emotional resilience

In order to confirm the effect of improving skin elasticity immediately after using the product, 30 Korean women in their 30s and 40s used each cream-type cosmetic composition prepared in the above Examples and Comparative Examples, and then tested the results for emotional elasticity. The evaluation was investigated. For the evaluation of emotional elasticity, 30 panelists were asked to apply each content and then express their feelings about the evaluation items (I feel like it lifts sagging skin / I feel elasticity on my skin / I don't know), and each item was evaluated. The result was expressed by adding the signifier. The results are shown in Table 3 below.

Items of use Example
One Example
2 Example
3 Example
4 Comparative example
One Comparative example
2 Comparative example
3 Comparative example
4 Lifts sagging skin
I feel it 3 5 7 10 - - 2 - Skin feels elastic 8 7 7 12 5 6 7 12 I don't know 19 18 16 8 25 24 21 18

As can be seen from the results in Table 3, Examples 1 to 4 using more than 5% by weight of Cerallution H were effective in evaluating emotional elasticity, but Comparative Examples 1 to 3, which did not use Cerallution H, were effective in evaluating emotional elasticity. There was no significant effect. In addition, in the case of Comparative Example 3 in which glycerin was added as polyol, it was found that satisfaction with immediate skin elasticity was high compared to Comparative Example 2 in which glycerin was not added. In addition, in the case of Comparative Example 4 in which polyol glycerin was not added to 3% by weight of Ceralution H, satisfaction with skin elasticity was found to be lower than that in Example 1. In the case of Example 3, which used 10% of Ceralution H, it had a feeling of being applied to the skin faster than the formulation of Comparative Example 2, and was able to further increase immediate skin elasticity by forming a flexible film on the skin. In addition, when Ceralution H and polyol glycerin were used together as in Example 4, by increasing the total content of polyol, higher satisfaction with skin elasticity was obtained than when each ingredient was used alone. This was believed to be due to the unique feeling of use created by Ceralution H and the glycerin forming a thin, moist film on the skin surface, creating an immediate feeling of skin elasticity in the early stages.

Experiment example 2: Check the effect of improving skin elasticity

In order to measure the effect of improving skin elasticity after using the product, Comparative Examples 2 to 3 were carried out using a device (Cutometer, C&K, Korea) that can measure elasticity as a change in the shape of the skin when negative pressure is applied to the skin surface. The elasticity enhancing effect of Examples 1 to 4 was evaluated. Specifically, the measurements were conducted on 75 women in their 30s and 40s, divided into 3 groups with 25 in each group. The creams of Examples 1 to 4 and Comparative Examples 2 to 3 were divided and applied to both facial areas twice a day for 1 month. Skin elasticity (R5, net elasticity_) was measured using a Cutometer on the facial area. Immediately after the experiment was completed, skin elasticity was measured using a Cutometer on the same area of the face. The increase in skin elasticity measured using the Cutometer was calculated using the cream. It is the average value of the R5 value after use relative to the R5 value before use, and the measurement results are shown in Table 4 below.

division Example
One Example
2 Example
3 Example
4 Comparative example
2 Comparative example
3 Skin elasticity (R5)
Increase rate (%) 8.5% 9.0% 10.2% 21.2% 4.2% 8.0%

As can be seen from the results in Table 4, it was confirmed that skin elasticity was most significantly improved in the formulation of Example 4 using all of the gemini surfactant, polyol, and macelignan. Additionally, in Example 4, skin elasticity was measured to be much higher after 4 weeks of use than in Comparative Example 2. However, in the case of Examples 1 to 3, it was confirmed that as the content of Ceralution H increased, the effect of improving elasticity was not significant, as shown in the evaluation of emotional elasticity. Through this, it was confirmed that the effect of improving skin elasticity was greatly improved when Gemini-based surfactant was used.

Claims (13)

At least one gemini-type surfactant represented by Formula 1 below;
polyol; and
Cosmetic composition for improving skin elasticity containing functional ingredients such as macelignan, dihydromyricetin, or a mixture thereof:
[Formula 1]

In Formula 1, R ₁ and R ₃ are each an alkyl radical having 1 to 25 carbon atoms, R ₂ is a spacing group consisting of a linear or branched alkylene chain having 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and X and Y are -(C ₂ H ₄ O) _a -(C ₃ H ₆ O) _b Z group, respectively, where Z is a hydrogen atom or -CH ₂ -COOM, -SO ₃ M, -P(O)(OM) ₂ , -C ₂ H ₄ -SO ₃ M, -C ₃ H ₆ -SO ₃ M or -CH ₂ (CHOH) ₄ CH ₂ OH radical, where M is H, alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium or alkanolammonium ion. , a is an integer from 0 to 15, b is an integer from 0 to 10, a+b is an integer from 1 to 25, and n is an integer from 1 to 10. According to paragraph 1,
A cosmetic composition in which the R ₁ -CO- and R ₃ -CO- groups in the gemini-type surfactant each contain 8 to 20 carbon atoms. According to paragraph 1,
A cosmetic composition wherein the average value of a+b for the X and Y radicals in the gemini-type surfactant is an integer of 10 to 20. According to paragraph 1,
In the Zenimi-type surfactant, Z is -SO ₃ M group, and M is an alkali metal ion. According to paragraph 1,
In the gemini type surfactant, n is 1, a cosmetic composition. According to paragraph 1,
A cosmetic composition in which the gemini-type surfactant is a surfactant represented by the following formula (2):
[Formula 2]
According to paragraph 1,
A cosmetic composition in which the gemini-type surfactant is included in an amount of 1 to 20% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. According to paragraph 1,
The cosmetic composition includes glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate monocitrate, behenyl alcohol, sodium lauroyl lactylate, cetostearyl alcohol, polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, PEG-100 stearate, A cosmetic composition further comprising at least one surfactant selected from the group consisting of Ceteareth-30, Ceteareth-25, and Ceteareth-20. According to paragraph 1,
A cosmetic composition wherein the polyol is at least one selected from the group consisting of glycerin, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, PEG-8, and sorbitol. According to paragraph 1,
A cosmetic composition in which the polyol is contained in an amount of 1 to 40% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. According to paragraph 1,
A cosmetic composition in which the functional ingredient is contained in an amount of 0.001 to 5% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. According to paragraph 1,
The functional ingredient is mace lignan, cosmetic composition. According to paragraph 1,
A cosmetic composition in which the formulation of the composition is of lotion, cream, gel or liquid type.