KR102608587B1 - cosmetic composition containing Campsis grandiflora extract and method for manufacturing the same - Google Patents
cosmetic composition containing Campsis grandiflora extract and method for manufacturing the same Download PDFInfo
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- KR102608587B1 KR102608587B1 KR1020230090252A KR20230090252A KR102608587B1 KR 102608587 B1 KR102608587 B1 KR 102608587B1 KR 1020230090252 A KR1020230090252 A KR 1020230090252A KR 20230090252 A KR20230090252 A KR 20230090252A KR 102608587 B1 KR102608587 B1 KR 102608587B1
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- South Korea
- Prior art keywords
- acid
- hydrogen bond
- cosmetic composition
- extract
- composition containing
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- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 title description 2
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- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
- A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/63—Steroids; Derivatives thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/007—Preparations for dry skin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
- A61K2800/805—Corresponding aspects not provided for by any of codes A61K2800/81 - A61K2800/95
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- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
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- Mycology (AREA)
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- Botany (AREA)
- Biotechnology (AREA)
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
본 발명은 능소화추출물을 함유한 화장료 조성물 및 이의 제조 방법에 관한 것으로, 보다 상세하게는 공융용매를 사용하여 능소화의 유효성분인 Ursolic acid의 추출 효율을 증가시킴으로써, 피부 장벽 기능 강화 효과가 뛰어난 것을 특징으로 하는 능소화추출물을 함유한 화장료 조성물 및 이의 제조 방법에 관한 것이다.
본 발명에 의하면, 능소화를 공융용매로 추출하여 능소화의 유효성분인 Ursolic acid의 추출 효율을 증가시킬 수 있으며, 이를 통해 피부 장벽 기능 강화 효과 또한 향상시킬 수 있다.The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition containing a Jacarandaia extract and a method for producing the same. More specifically, it is characterized by an excellent effect of strengthening the skin barrier function by increasing the extraction efficiency of Ursolic acid, the active ingredient of Jacaranda, using a eutectic solvent. It relates to a cosmetic composition containing a chinensis extract and a method for producing the same.
According to the present invention, the extraction efficiency of Ursolic acid, the active ingredient of Jacarandaia, can be increased by extracting Jacaranda with a eutectic solvent, and through this, the effect of strengthening the skin barrier function can also be improved.
Description
본 발명은 능소화추출물을 함유한 화장료 조성물 및 이의 제조 방법에 관한 것으로, 보다 상세하게는 공융용매를 사용하여 능소화의 유효성분인 Ursolic acid의 추출 효율을 증가시킴으로써, 피부 장벽 기능 강화 효과가 뛰어난 것을 특징으로 하는 능소화추출물을 함유한 화장료 조성물 및 이의 제조 방법에 관한 것이다.The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition containing a Jacarandaia extract and a method for producing the same. More specifically, it is characterized by an excellent effect of strengthening the skin barrier function by increasing the extraction efficiency of Ursolic acid, the active ingredient of Jacaranda, using a eutectic solvent. It relates to a cosmetic composition containing a chinensis extract and a method for producing the same.
화장품의 화학성분으로 인한 부작용 발생과 안정성 문제가 대두되면서 환경 친화적인 천연물을 사용한 화장품에 대한 관심이 급증하고 있다. 천연 재료는 합성 화합물에 비해 부작용이 적어 비교적 안전하기 때문에 최근 천연 재료를 활용한 화장품에 대한 소비자의 호응이 높아짐에 따라 화장품 원료로서 개발가치도 한층 늘어나고 있다.As side effects and safety issues due to chemical ingredients in cosmetics emerge, interest in cosmetics using environmentally friendly natural products is rapidly increasing. Since natural materials are relatively safe with fewer side effects than synthetic compounds, their development value as a cosmetic raw material is also increasing as consumer response to cosmetics using natural materials has recently increased.
일반적으로 천연물 추출에 사용되는 유기용매는 저렴한 비용과 높은 추출 효율이라는 장점이 있으나 급격한 기후변화를 초래한 환경오염으로 인해 환경보호의 중요성이 나날이 부각되면서 친환경 용매에 대한 관심이 급증하고 있는데, 건강에 유해하고 환경오염을 유발하는 유기용매의 단점을 극복하기 위한 대안으로 공융용매(Deep Eutectic Solvents, DES)가 새로운 친환경 용매로 떠오르면서 공융용매에 대한 연구가 활발히 진행되고 있다. In general, organic solvents used for natural product extraction have the advantages of low cost and high extraction efficiency, but as the importance of environmental protection is increasingly highlighted due to environmental pollution that has caused rapid climate change, interest in eco-friendly solvents is rapidly increasing. As deep eutectic solvents (DES) are emerging as a new eco-friendly solvent as an alternative to overcome the disadvantages of organic solvents that are harmful and cause environmental pollution, research on eutectic solvents is actively underway.
능소화(Campsis grandiflora)는 쌍떡잎식물 능소화과의 낙엽성 덩굴식물로 주로 관상용으로 식재되고 있으나 피부소양, 좌창, 어혈로 인한 질병에 효과가 있어 한약재로 사용되기도 한다. 현재 능소화추출물을 유효성분으로 함유하는 당뇨합병증 또는 퇴행성뇌질환, 에이즈, 관절염 등을 위한 치료 및 예방용 조성물에 대한 연구가 진행되어 있으나, 피부 장벽 기능 강화 효능을 갖는 화장료 소재로 사용하기에는 연구 개발이 미미한 실정이다. Campsis grandiflora is a deciduous vine of the dicotyledonous family Campsis grandiflora, which is mainly planted as an ornamental plant, but is also used as an herbal medicine as it is effective in treating diseases caused by skin itching, acne, and blood clots. Currently, research is being conducted on compositions for the treatment and prevention of diabetic complications, degenerative brain disease, AIDS, arthritis, etc., containing Jacaranda chinensis extract as an active ingredient, but research and development are not sufficient to use it as a cosmetic material with the effect of strengthening the skin barrier function. The situation is minimal.
본 발명은 상기와 같은 문제점을 해결하기 위하여 안출된 것으로, 능소화를 공융용매로 추출하여 유효성분인 Ursolic acid의 추출 효율을 증가시킴으로써, 피부 장벽 기능 강화 효능이 뛰어난 것을 특징으로 하는 능소화추출물을 함유한 화장료 조성물을 제공하는데 그 목적이 있다.The present invention was developed to solve the above problems, and it extracts Jacaranda chinensis with a eutectic solvent to increase the extraction efficiency of Ursolic acid, an active ingredient, and is characterized by excellent effectiveness in strengthening the skin barrier function. The purpose is to provide a cosmetic composition.
본 발명의 다른 목적은 공융용매로 추출한 능소화추출물을 함유하는 피부 장벽 기능 강화 효능이 뛰어난 화장료 조성물의 제조 방법을 제공하는 것이다.Another object of the present invention is to provide a method for producing a cosmetic composition with excellent efficacy in strengthening the skin barrier function, which contains a chinensis extract extracted with a eutectic solvent.
본 발명은 상기의 목적을 해결하기 위한 것으로, 능소화를 추출하는 용매로 수소결합 공여체;와 수소결합 수용체;로 구성된 공융용매를 이용함으로써 유효성분의 추출 효율을 증가시킨 능소화추출물을 함유한 화장료 조성물을 제공한다.The present invention is intended to solve the above object, and provides a cosmetic composition containing a Jacarandaia extract in which the extraction efficiency of the active ingredient is increased by using a eutectic solvent consisting of a hydrogen bond donor and a hydrogen bond acceptor as a solvent for extracting the Jacaranda chinensis. to provide.
또한, 상기 수소결합 공여체는 1,3-프로판다이올(1,3-propandiol), 1,2-헥산다이올(1,2-Hexanediol), 1,3-부틸렌 글리콜(1,3-Butylene glycol), 에틸렌 글리콜(Ethylene Glycol), 폼아마이드(Formamide), 글루코스(Glucose), 글리세롤(Glycerol), 젖산(Lactic acid), 레불린산(Levulinic acid), 말산(Malic acid), 솔비톨(Sorbitol), 요소(Urea), 자일로스(Xylose) 및 이들의 조합들로 이루어진 군으로부터 선택되는 1종 이상을 포함하는 것을 특징으로 한다.In addition, the hydrogen bond donor is 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,3-butylene glycol (1,3-Butylene) glycol, Ethylene Glycol, Formamide, Glucose, Glycerol, Lactic acid, Levulinic acid, Malic acid, Sorbitol , Urea, xylose, and combinations thereof.
또한, 상기 수소결합 수용체는 아스코르브산(Ascorbic acid), 알라닌(Alanine), 아디프산(Adipic acid), 비테인(Betaine), 시트르산(Citric acid), 염화콜린(Choline Chloride), 글리신(Glycine), 글루코스(Glucose), L-카르니틴(L-carnitine), 프롤린(Proline), 니코틴아미드(Nicotinamide), 숙신산(Succinic acid), 아세트산나트륨(Sodium acetate), 하이드록시프롤린(Hydroxyproline), 히스티딘(Histidine) 및 이들의 조합들로 이루어진 군으로부터 선택되는 1종 이상을 포함하는 것을 특징으로 한다.In addition, the hydrogen bond receptors include ascorbic acid, alanine, adipic acid, betaine, citric acid, choline chloride, and glycine. , Glucose, L-carnitine, Proline, Nicotinamide, Succinic acid, Sodium acetate, Hydroxyproline, Histidine and combinations thereof.
또한, 상기 수소결합 공여체와 수소결합 수용체는 1:10 내지 10:1의 몰 비율로 혼합되는 것을 특징으로 한다.In addition, the hydrogen bond donor and hydrogen bond acceptor are characterized in that they are mixed at a molar ratio of 1:10 to 10:1.
또한, 상기 유효성분은 우르솔산(Ursolic acid)인 것을 특징으로 한다.In addition, the active ingredient is characterized in that it is ursolic acid.
또한, 상기 능소화추출물은 화장료 조성물 전체 중량에 대하여 추출물을 0.01~50.0 중량%로 함유하는 것을 특징으로 한다.In addition, the Jacarandaia extract is characterized in that it contains 0.01 to 50.0% by weight of extract based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
본 발명은 상기의 목적을 달성하기 위한 것으로, (a) 음건한 능소화 꽃 10g을 분쇄하여 분쇄물을 제조하는 단계; (b) 수소결합 공여체와 수소결합 수용체를 혼합하여 공융용매를 제조하는 단계; (c) 상기 (a)의 분쇄물에 상기 (b)의 공융용매를 중량 대비 10배 첨가하여 추출하는 단계; (d) 상기 (c) 단계의 추출로 얻은 추출물을 여과하는 단계; 및 (e) 상기 (a)~(d) 단계를 통해 제조된 능소화추출물을 함유하는 화장료 조성물을 제조하는 단계;를 포함하는 것을 특징으로 하는 능소화추출물을 함유한 화장료 조성물의 제조 방법을 제공한다.The present invention is intended to achieve the above object, comprising the steps of (a) grinding 10 g of shade-dried Jacaranda flowers to produce a pulverized product; (b) preparing a eutectic solvent by mixing a hydrogen bond donor and a hydrogen bond acceptor; (c) extracting the pulverized material of (a) by adding 10 times the weight of the eutectic solvent of (b); (d) filtering the extract obtained from the extraction in step (c); and (e) preparing a cosmetic composition containing the Jacaranda chinensis extract prepared through steps (a) to (d).
또한, 상기 (b) 단계에서 수소결합 공여체는 1,3-프로판다이올(1,3-propandiol), 1,2-헥산다이올(1,2-Hexanediol), 1,3-부틸렌 글리콜(1,3-Butylene glycol), 에틸렌 글리콜(Ethylene Glycol), 폼아마이드(Formamide), 글루코스(Glucose), 글리세롤(Glycerol), 젖산(Lactic acid), 레불린산(Levulinic acid), 말산(Malic acid), 솔비톨(Sorbitol), 요소(Urea), 자일로스(Xylose) 및 이들의 조합들로 이루어진 군으로부터 선택되는 1종 이상을 포함하며, 수소결합 수용체는 아스코르브산(Ascorbic acid), 알라닌(Alanine), 아디프산(Adipic acid), 비테인(Betaine), 시트르산(Citric acid), 염화콜린(Choline Chloride), 글리신(Glycine), 글루코스(Glucose), L-카르니틴(L-carnitine), 프롤린(Proline), 니코틴아미드(Nicotinamide), 숙신산(Succinic acid), 아세트산나트륨(Sodium acetate), 하이드록시프롤린(Hydroxyproline), 히스티딘(Histidine) 및 이들의 조합들로 이루어진 군으로부터 선택되는 1종 이상을 포함하는 것을 특징으로 한다.In addition, in step (b), the hydrogen bond donor is 1,3-propandiol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,3-butylene glycol ( 1,3-Butylene glycol, Ethylene Glycol, Formamide, Glucose, Glycerol, Lactic acid, Levulinic acid, Malic acid , Sorbitol, Urea, Xylose, and combinations thereof, and the hydrogen bond receptor includes Ascorbic acid, Alanine, Adipic acid, Betaine, Citric acid, Choline Chloride, Glycine, Glucose, L-carnitine, Proline , Nicotinamide, Succinic acid, Sodium acetate, Hydroxyproline, Histidine, and combinations thereof. Do it as
또한, 상기 (c) 단계의 추출은 30~60℃에서 5~10시간동안 진행되는 것을 특징으로 한다.In addition, the extraction in step (c) is characterized in that it is carried out at 30 to 60 ° C. for 5 to 10 hours.
또한, 상기 (d) 단계의 여과는 400mesh 여과포로 여과한 후에 whatman #5 여과지로 여과하는 것을 특징으로 한다.In addition, the filtration in step (d) is characterized by filtration with a 400 mesh filter cloth and then with a whatman #5 filter paper.
본 발명에 의하면, 능소화를 공융용매로 추출하여 능소화의 유효성분인 Ursolic acid의 추출 효율을 증가시킬 수 있으며, 이를 통해 피부 장벽 기능 강화 효과 또한 향상시킬 수 있다.According to the present invention, the extraction efficiency of Ursolic acid, the active ingredient of Jacarandaia, can be increased by extracting Jacaranda with a eutectic solvent, and through this, the effect of strengthening the skin barrier function can also be improved.
도 1은 공융용매로 추출한 실시예 1 내지 실시예 15의 능소화추출물과 95%(v/v) 에탄올 수용액으로 추출한 비교예의 능소화추출물의 유효성분인 Ursolic acid의 함량을 비교한 결과를 나타내는 도면.
도 2는 공융용매로 추출한 실시예 6의 능소화추출물과 95%(v/v) 에탄올 수용액으로 추출한 비교예의 능소화추출물의 유효성분인 Ursolic acid의 함량을 비교한 HPLC의 분석 결과를 나타내는 도면.
도 3은 공융용매로 추출한 실시예 6의 능소화추출물과 95%(v/v) 에탄올 수용액으로 추출한 비교예의 능소화추출물의 세린-팔미토일 전이효소(Serine-palmitoyl transferase, SPT)의 발현 촉진 효과를 비교한 실험 결과를 나타내는 도면.
도 4는 공융용매로 추출한 실시예 6의 능소화추출물과 95%(v/v) 에탄올 수용액으로 추출한 비교예의 능소화추출물의 Filaggrin 발현 촉진 효과를 비교한 실험 결과를 나타내는 도면.
도 5는 공융용매로 추출한 실시예 6의 능소화추출물과 95%(v/v) 에탄올 수용액으로 추출한 비교예의 능소화추출물의 Desmoglein-1 발현 촉진 효과를 비교한 실험 결과를 나타내는 도면.
도 6은 공융용매로 추출한 능소화추출물을 함유한 화장료 조성물인 제형예 1 및 비교제형예 1의 경피수분손실량을 나타낸 실험 결과를 나타내는 도면.Figure 1 is a diagram showing the results of comparing the content of Ursolic acid, an active ingredient, of the Jacarandaia extract of Examples 1 to 15 extracted with a eutectic solvent and the Jacarandaia chinensis extract of Comparative Example extracted with a 95% (v/v) ethanol aqueous solution.
Figure 2 is a diagram showing the results of HPLC analysis comparing the content of ursolic acid, an active ingredient, in the Jacaranda chinensis extract of Example 6 extracted with a eutectic solvent and the Jacaranda chinensis extract of Comparative Example extracted with a 95% (v/v) ethanol aqueous solution.
Figure 3 compares the effect of promoting the expression of serine-palmitoyl transferase (SPT) of the Jacarandaia chinensis extract of Example 6 extracted with a eutectic solvent and that of the Comparative Example extracted with a 95% (v/v) ethanol aqueous solution. A drawing showing the results of an experiment.
Figure 4 is a diagram showing the results of an experiment comparing the effect of promoting Filaggrin expression between the Jacarandaia chinensis extract of Example 6 extracted with a eutectic solvent and the Jacarandaia chinensis extract of Comparative Example extracted with a 95% (v/v) ethanol aqueous solution.
Figure 5 is a diagram showing the results of an experiment comparing the effect of promoting Desmoglein-1 expression between the Jacarandaia extract of Example 6 extracted with a eutectic solvent and the Jacarandaia chinensis extract of Comparative Example extracted with a 95% (v/v) ethanol aqueous solution.
Figure 6 is a diagram showing the results of an experiment showing the amount of transdermal water loss of Formulation Example 1 and Comparative Formulation Example 1, which are cosmetic compositions containing Jacaranda chinensis extract extracted with a eutectic solvent.
본 발명은 능소화를 추출하는 용매로 수소결합 공여체;와 수소결합 수용체;로 구성된 공융용매를 이용함으로써 유효성분의 추출 효율을 증가시킨 능소화추출물을 함유한 화장료 조성물에 관한 것이다.The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition containing the extract of Jacaranda chinensis, which increases the extraction efficiency of the active ingredient by using a eutectic solvent consisting of a hydrogen bond donor and a hydrogen bond acceptor as a solvent for extracting the Jacaranda chinensis.
이하, 본 발명을 첨부한 도면을 참조하여 상세히 설명한다.Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail with reference to the accompanying drawings.
공융용매란 1종 이상의 고체 또는 액체상의 화합물을 적당한 비율로 혼합했을 때 상온에서 액체 상태가 되는 물질을 말한다. 자세히는 두 가지 이상의 물질들 사이의 수소결합 공여체(hydrogen bond donor, HBD)와 수소결합 수용체(hydrogen bond acceptor, HBA)가 수소결합을 형성하면서 만들어지게 된다. 이 때 만들어진 공융용매는 각 화합물이 갖는 융점보다 낮은 융점을 가져 상온에서 투명한 액상 형태로 존재한다는 특성이 있으며, 비교적 저렴하고 제조가 쉬우며 재생 가능한 생분해성 용매로서 비휘발성, 무독성 등의 장점을 가진 친환경 용매이다.A eutectic solvent is a substance that becomes liquid at room temperature when one or more types of solid or liquid compounds are mixed in an appropriate ratio. In detail, it is created when a hydrogen bond donor (HBD) and a hydrogen bond acceptor (HBA) form a hydrogen bond between two or more substances. The eutectic solvent created at this time has a melting point lower than the melting point of each compound and has the characteristic of existing in a transparent liquid form at room temperature. It is relatively inexpensive, easy to manufacture, and is a renewable, biodegradable solvent with the advantages of being non-volatile and non-toxic. It is an eco-friendly solvent.
본 발명에 있어서, 상기 수소결합 공여체는 1,3-프로판다이올(1,3-propandiol), 1,2-헥산다이올(1,2-Hexanediol), 1,3-부틸렌 글리콜(1,3-Butylene glycol), 에틸렌 글리콜(Ethylene Glycol), 폼아마이드(Formamide), 글루코스(Glucose), 글리세롤(Glycerol), 젖산(Lactic acid), 레불린산(Levulinic acid), 말산(Malic acid), 솔비톨(Sorbitol), 요소(Urea), 자일로스(Xylose) 및 이들의 조합들로 이루어진 군으로부터 선택되는 1종 이상을 포함하는 것으로 한다. 또한, 상기 수소결합 수용체는 아스코르브산(Ascorbic acid), 알라닌(Alanine), 아디프산(Adipic acid), 비테인(Betaine), 시트르산(Citric acid), 염화콜린(Choline Chloride), 글리신(Glycine), 글루코스(Glucose), L-카르니틴(L-carnitine), 프롤린(Proline), 니코틴아미드(Nicotinamide), 숙신산(Succinic acid), 아세트산나트륨(Sodium acetate), 하이드록시프롤린(Hydroxyproline), 히스티딘(Histidine) 및 이들의 조합들로 이루어진 군으로부터 선택되는 1종 이상을 포함하는 것으로 한다.In the present invention, the hydrogen bond donor is 1,3-propandiol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,3-butylene glycol (1, 3-Butylene glycol, Ethylene Glycol, Formamide, Glucose, Glycerol, Lactic acid, Levulinic acid, Malic acid, Sorbitol It shall contain at least one member selected from the group consisting of Sorbitol, Urea, Xylose, and combinations thereof. In addition, the hydrogen bond receptors include ascorbic acid, alanine, adipic acid, betaine, citric acid, choline chloride, and glycine. , Glucose, L-carnitine, Proline, Nicotinamide, Succinic acid, Sodium acetate, Hydroxyproline, Histidine and at least one selected from the group consisting of combinations thereof.
본 발명에 있어서, 상기 수소결합 공여체와 수소결합 수용체는 1:10 내지 10:1의 몰 비율로 혼합되는 것이 바람직하다. 또한 정제수를 추가로 포함할 수 있으며, 수소결합 공여체 및 수소결합 수용체를 혼합한 후에 정제수를 첨가하여 0.1 내지 1.0 배수로 희석된 것일 수 있다.In the present invention, the hydrogen bond donor and hydrogen bond acceptor are preferably mixed at a molar ratio of 1:10 to 10:1. Additionally, purified water may be included, and the hydrogen bond donor and hydrogen bond acceptor may be mixed and then diluted to a factor of 0.1 to 1.0 by adding purified water.
본 발명에 있어서, 상기 유효성분은 우르솔산(Ursolic acid)인 것으로 한다. 또한 능소화로부터 추출되는 유효성분은 Oleanolic acid, β-Sitosterol 등 일 수 있다.In the present invention, the active ingredient is ursolic acid. In addition, the active ingredients extracted from Japanese quince may be Oleanolic acid, β-Sitosterol, etc.
본 발명의 화장료 조성물에 함유되는 능소화추출물의 함량은 특정한 범위에 한정되는 것은 아니고, 화장료 조성물의 품질 적성을 훼손하지 않으면서 상기에서 설명한 능소화추추물의 효과가 발휘되는 범위라면 무방하나 화장료 조성물 전체 중량에 대하여 추출물을 0.01~50.0 중량%로 함유하는 것이 바람직하다. 능소화추출물이 화장료 조성물 전체에 대해 0.01 중량% 미만으로 첨가되는 경우에는 피부 장벽 기능 강화 효과가 미미하고, 50.0 중량%를 초과하는 경우에는 첨가량 대비 효율성이 떨어지기 때문이다. 또한, 본 발명에 따른 화장료 조성물은 바람직하게는 능소화추출물 외에 본 발명이 목적으로 하는 주 효과를 손상시키지 않는 범위 내에서 주 효과에 상승효과를 줄 수 있는 다른 성분 등을 함유하는 것도 무방하다.The content of the chinensis extract contained in the cosmetic composition of the present invention is not limited to a specific range, but may be within a range in which the effect of the above-described chine sinus extract is exhibited without compromising the quality and suitability of the cosmetic composition. However, the total weight of the cosmetic composition It is preferable to contain 0.01 to 50.0% by weight of extract. This is because when the Jaspernia chinensis extract is added in an amount of less than 0.01% by weight relative to the total cosmetic composition, the effect of strengthening the skin barrier function is minimal, and when it exceeds 50.0% by weight, the efficiency is low compared to the amount added. In addition, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may preferably contain other ingredients that can provide a synergistic effect on the main effect, as long as they do not impair the main effect aimed at by the present invention, in addition to the chinensis extract.
본 발명은 (a) 음건한 능소화 꽃 10g을 분쇄하여 분쇄물을 제조하는 단계; (b) 수소결합 공여체와 수소결합 수용체를 혼합하여 공융용매를 제조하는 단계; (c) 상기 (a)의 분쇄물에 상기 (b)의 공융용매를 중량 대비 10배 첨가하여 추출하는 단계; (d) 상기 (c) 단계의 추출로 얻은 추출물을 여과하는 단계; 및 (e) 상기 (a)~(d) 단계를 통해 제조된 능소화추출물을 함유하는 화장료 조성물을 제조하는 단계;를 포함하는 것을 특징으로 하는 능소화추출물을 함유한 화장료 조성물의 제조 방법에 관한 것이다.The present invention includes the steps of (a) grinding 10 g of shade-dried Jacaranda flowers to produce pulverized material; (b) preparing a eutectic solvent by mixing a hydrogen bond donor and a hydrogen bond acceptor; (c) extracting the pulverized material of (a) by adding 10 times the weight of the eutectic solvent of (b); (d) filtering the extract obtained from the extraction in step (c); and (e) preparing a cosmetic composition containing the Jacaranda chinensis extract prepared through steps (a) to (d) above.
본 발명에 있어서, 상기 (b) 단계에서 수소결합 공여체는 1,3-프로판다이올(1,3-propandiol), 1,2-헥산다이올(1,2-Hexanediol), 1,3-부틸렌 글리콜(1,3-Butylene glycol), 에틸렌 글리콜(Ethylene Glycol), 폼아마이드(Formamide), 글루코스(Glucose), 글리세롤(Glycerol), 젖산(Lactic acid), 레불린산(Levulinic acid), 말산(Malic acid), 솔비톨(Sorbitol), 요소(Urea), 자일로스(Xylose) 및 이들의 조합들로 이루어진 군으로부터 선택되는 1종 이상을 포함하며, 수소결합 수용체는 아스코르브산(Ascorbic acid), 알라닌(Alanine), 아디프산(Adipic acid), 비테인(Betaine), 시트르산(Citric acid), 염화콜린(Choline Chloride), 글리신(Glycine), 글루코스(Glucose), L-카르니틴(L-carnitine), 프롤린(Proline), 니코틴아미드(Nicotinamide), 숙신산(Succinic acid), 아세트산나트륨(Sodium acetate), 하이드록시프롤린(Hydroxyproline), 히스티딘(Histidine) 및 이들의 조합들로 이루어진 군으로부터 선택되는 1종 이상을 포함하는 것으로 한다.In the present invention, the hydrogen bond donor in step (b) is 1,3-propandiol, 1,2-hexanediol, and 1,3-butyl. 1,3-Butylene glycol, Ethylene Glycol, Formamide, Glucose, Glycerol, Lactic acid, Levulinic acid, Malic acid ( Malic acid, Sorbitol, Urea, Alanine, Adipic acid, Betaine, Citric acid, Choline Chloride, Glycine, Glucose, L-carnitine, Proline (Proline), Nicotinamide, Succinic acid, Sodium acetate, Hydroxyproline, Histidine, and combinations thereof. Do it by doing it.
상기 (c) 단계의 추출은 30~60℃에서 5~10시간동안 진행되는 것이 바람직하다. 추출 온도가 30℃ 미만인 경우는 낮은 온도로 인해 대류 현상이 일어나지 않으므로 유효성분의 추출이 미미하며, 60℃를 초과하는 경우는 열에 의한 유효성분의 변성이 일어날 수 있으므로 바람직하지 못하다. 또한 추출 시간이 5시간 미만인 경우는 유효성분의 고함량 추출을 기대하기 어려우며, 10시간을 초과하는 경우는 많은 시간과 비용이 소요되기 때문에 경제적이지 못하다.The extraction in step (c) is preferably performed at 30 to 60°C for 5 to 10 hours. If the extraction temperature is less than 30°C, the extraction of the active ingredient is minimal because convection does not occur due to the low temperature, and if it exceeds 60°C, it is undesirable because denaturation of the active ingredient may occur due to heat. In addition, if the extraction time is less than 5 hours, it is difficult to expect extraction of a high content of the active ingredient, and if it exceeds 10 hours, it is uneconomical because it requires a lot of time and cost.
본 발명에 있어서, 상기 (d) 단계의 여과는 400mesh 여과포로 여과한 후에 whatman #5 여과지로 여과하는 것으로 한다.In the present invention, the filtration in step (d) is performed using a 400 mesh filter cloth and then using a Whatman #5 filter paper.
이하, 실시예를 통하여 본 발명을 더욱 상세히 설명하고자 한다. 다만, 이들의 실시예는 오로지 본 발명을 예시하기 위한 것으로서, 본 발명의 범위가 이들 실시예에 의해 한정되는 것으로 해석되지는 않으며 본 기술분야에서 통상의 지식을 가진자는 본 발명의 기술적 사상을 벗어나지 않는 범위에서 실시예의 일부를 치환 및 변형하는 것이 가능함을 이해할 수 있을 것이다.Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail through examples. However, these examples are only for illustrating the present invention, and the scope of the present invention is not to be construed as limited by these examples, and those skilled in the art should not depart from the technical spirit of the present invention. It will be understood that it is possible to substitute and modify parts of the embodiments within the scope of the present invention.
[실시예][Example]
수확 시기에 채취하여 음건한 능소화 꽃 10g을 분쇄하여 분쇄물을 제조한 후, 분쇄물에 10배 가량의 공융용매를 첨가하여 50℃에서 8시간 추출하였다. 상기 공융용매는 1종 이상의 수소결합 공여체 및 1종 이상의 수소결합 수용체를 혼합하여 제조하였으며, 수소결합 공여체와 수소결합 수용체의 성분을 다르게 하거나, 혼합 몰 비 및 정제수 첨가 여부를 다르게 하여 아래 표 1과 같이 조합하였다. 추출로 얻은 추출물은 400mesh 여과포로 여과한 후, whatman #5 여과지로 다시 한 번 여과하였다.10 g of Jacaranda flowers collected at harvest time and dried in the shade were pulverized to prepare a pulverized product, and then about 10 times the amount of eutectic solvent was added to the pulverized product and extracted at 50°C for 8 hours. The eutectic solvent was prepared by mixing one or more types of hydrogen bond donor and one or more types of hydrogen bond acceptor, and the components of the hydrogen bond donor and hydrogen bond acceptor were varied, or the mixing molar ratio and whether purified water was added were varied, as shown in Table 1 below. They were combined together. The extract obtained by extraction was filtered through a 400mesh filter paper and then filtered again through a whatman #5 filter paper.
[비교예][Comparative example]
수확 시기에 채취하여 음건한 능소화 꽃 10g을 분쇄하여 분쇄물을 제조한 후, 분쇄물에 10배 가량의 95%(v/v) 에탄올 수용액을 첨가하여 냉각 콘덴서가 부착된 추출기에서 5시간 환류 추출하였다. 추출로 얻은 추출물은 400mesh 여과포로 여과한 후, whatman #5 여과지로 다시 한 번 여과하였다. 그 후, HPLC 분석을 위해 소량을 제외한 나머지 여과액은 냉각콘덴서가 달린 증류장치로 50℃ 이하에서 감압 농축 및 동결 건조하였다.After pulverizing 10g of Jacaranda flowers collected at harvest time and dried in the shade, pulverized product was prepared, then about 10 times more 95% (v/v) ethanol aqueous solution was added to the pulverized material and refluxed for 5 hours in an extractor equipped with a cooling condenser. did. The extract obtained by extraction was filtered through a 400mesh filter paper and then filtered again through a whatman #5 filter paper. Afterwards, for HPLC analysis, the remaining filtrate, except for a small amount, was concentrated under reduced pressure and freeze-dried under 50°C using a distillation device equipped with a cooling condenser.
[실험예 1: HPLC 분석][Experimental Example 1: HPLC analysis]
실시예에서 공융용매로 제조된 능소화추출물은 0.45㎛ 필터하였고, 비교예에서 95%(v/v) 에탄올 수용액으로 제조된 능소화추출물은 감압 농축 및 동결 건조하기 전 여과액을 사용하여 0.45㎛ 필터하였다. 2998 PDA detector가 장착된 고성능액체크로마토그래피(HPLC, Waters 2695)를 이용하여 분석하였다. 컬럼은 Optimapak C18(250mm*4.6㎛)를 사용하였고, 유속은 1.0ml/min이었으며, 자외선 검출기의 검출 파장은 210nm로 설정하였다. Ursolic acid 표준폼을 메탄올에 녹여 1,000ppm으로 한 후, 이를 희석하여 500, 250, 125ppm 별로 표준용액을 조제하고, HPLC로 분석한 후 검량선을 작성하여 실시예 및 비교예에서 제조한 능소화추출물의 Ursolic acid을 정량하였다.In the examples, the Jacarandaia extract prepared with a eutectic solvent was filtered at 0.45㎛, and in the comparative example, the Jacarandaia extract prepared with a 95% (v/v) ethanol aqueous solution was filtered at 0.45㎛ using the filtrate before concentration under reduced pressure and freeze-drying. . Analysis was performed using high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC, Waters 2695) equipped with a 2998 PDA detector. The column used was Optimapak C18 (250mm*4.6㎛), the flow rate was 1.0ml/min, and the detection wavelength of the ultraviolet detector was set to 210nm. Ursolic acid standard form was dissolved in methanol to 1,000 ppm, then diluted to prepare standard solutions for 500, 250, and 125 ppm, analyzed by HPLC, and a calibration curve was prepared to determine the Ursolic acid content of the Jaspernia chinensis extract prepared in Examples and Comparative Examples. Acid was quantified.
도 1은 공융용매로 추출한 실시예 1 내지 실시예 15의 능소화추출물과 95%(v/v) 에탄올 수용액으로 추출한 비교예의 능소화추출물의 유효성분인 Ursolic acid의 함량을 비교한 결과를 나타내는 도면이다.Figure 1 is a diagram showing the results of comparing the content of ursolic acid, an active ingredient, in the Jacarandaia extract of Examples 1 to 15 extracted with a eutectic solvent and the Jacarandaia chinensis extract of Comparative Example extracted with a 95% (v/v) ethanol aqueous solution.
실시예의 다양한 수소결합 공여체와 수소결합 수용체 구성으로 추출한 능소화의 유효성분인 Ursolic acid를 분석한 결과, 상기 표 1의 구성 가운데 실시예 6에 해당하는 Proline과 Malic acid를 1:1 몰 비율로 혼합한 단일 공융용매로 능소화를 추출하였을 때, 비교예인 95% EtOH 보다 Ursolic acid가 약 2.3배 더 높게 추출되는 것을 확인할 수 있다.As a result of analyzing ursolic acid, the active ingredient of quince, extracted from various hydrogen bond donor and hydrogen bond acceptor compositions in the examples, it was found that among the compositions in Table 1 above, Proline and Malic acid corresponding to Example 6 were mixed at a 1:1 molar ratio. When extracting ursolic acid with a single eutectic solvent, it can be seen that ursolic acid is extracted about 2.3 times higher than with 95% EtOH, which is a comparative example.
Ursolic acid의 함량이 가장 좋은 실시예 6을 대표로 하여 향후 실험을 실시하였다.Future experiments were conducted using Example 6, which had the highest ursolic acid content, as a representative example.
도 2는 공융용매로 추출한 실시예 6의 능소화추출물과 95%(v/v) 에탄올 수용액으로 추출한 비교예의 능소화추출물의 유효성분인 Ursolic acid의 함량을 비교한 HPLC의 분석 결과를 나타내는 도면이다.Figure 2 is a diagram showing the results of HPLC analysis comparing the content of ursolic acid, an active ingredient, between the Jacarandaia chinensis extract of Example 6 extracted with a eutectic solvent and the Jacarandaia chinensis extract of Comparative Example extracted with a 95% (v/v) ethanol aqueous solution.
활성산소는 생체지질의 산화를 일으켜 피부 장벽 기능을 수행하는 지질층의 지질 조성과 함량을 변화시키고 그 기능을 급격히 저하시킨다. 피부 장벽 기능이 손상될 경우 피부 보호막 약화, 피부 기능 저하 등이 일어나고 피부 수분 함량이 감소되어 피부 건조, 주름 형성, 기미, 주근깨, 색소 침착, 다양한 피부 병변 등이 유발된다. 이러한 피부 장벽 손상에 의한 피해를 방지하기 위해 체내에서는 SPT, Filaggrin, desmoglein-1와 같은 효소 및 단백질의 활성이 활발히 일어나고 있으며 이러한 활성을 통해 피부 본연의 방어력을 높일 수 있다.Active oxygen causes oxidation of biological lipids, changing the lipid composition and content of the lipid layer that performs the skin barrier function and rapidly deteriorating its function. When the skin barrier function is damaged, the skin protective film is weakened, skin function deteriorates, etc., and the skin moisture content is reduced, causing skin dryness, wrinkle formation, spots, freckles, pigmentation, and various skin lesions. To prevent damage caused by damage to the skin barrier, the activity of enzymes and proteins such as SPT, Filaggrin, and desmoglein-1 is actively occurring in the body, and through this activity, the skin's natural defense ability can be increased.
[실험예 2: 능소화추출물의 세린-팔미토일 전이효소 발현 촉진 효과 확인][Experimental Example 2: Confirmation of the effect of Jacaranda chinensis extract on promoting serine-palmitoyl transferase expression]
SPT(Serine-palmitoyl transferase)는 세포간 지질의 핵심 효소로, 세포간 지질의 약 50%를 차지하는 세라마이드 생합성에 중요한 역할을 하며, 스핑고미엘린(sphingomyelin)의 가수분해를 촉진시킴으로써 세라마이드의 합성을 촉진시키는 역할을 한다. SPT의 발현이 증가하면 세라마이드 합성이 증가하여 피부 장벽 기능이 강화되며, 피부 장벽 기능의 손상을 회복시키고 유지 효과를 발휘한다.SPT (Serine-palmitoyl transferase) is a key enzyme of intercellular lipids, plays an important role in ceramide biosynthesis, accounting for about 50% of intercellular lipids, and promotes ceramide synthesis by promoting the hydrolysis of sphingomyelin. It plays a role. When the expression of SPT increases, ceramide synthesis increases and the skin barrier function is strengthened, restoring damage to the skin barrier function and exerting a maintenance effect.
상기 실시예 6의 공융용매로 추출한 능소화추출물의 피부 장벽 기능 강화 효과를 확인하기 위해 세린-팔미토일 전이효소(Serine-palmitoyl transferase, SPT)의 발현 촉진 효과를 확인하였다.In order to confirm the effect of strengthening the skin barrier function of the Japanese chinensis extract extracted with the eutectic solvent of Example 6, the effect of promoting the expression of serine-palmitoyl transferase (SPT) was confirmed.
인간유래 각질형성세포(HaCaT)를 12 well-plate에 3×105 cells/well로 분주하고 37℃, 5% CO2 세포 배양기에서 하루 동안 세포를 안정화시켰다. 상기 실시예 6 및 비교예의 능소화추출물을 농도별(12.5㎍, 25㎍, 50㎍, 100㎍)로 처리하고, 6시간 동안 반응시킨 후 스크래퍼(scraper)를 이용하여 세포를 수집하였다. 1×세포 용해 버퍼(cell lysis buffer)를 이용하여 단백질을 분리하고 BCA assay로 단백질을 정량한 후 일정량의 단백질을 10% SDS-PAGE 겔에서 전기영동 시켰다. 겔(Gel)상의 분리된 단백질을 PVDF 멤브레인에 전이(transfer)시키고 5% 스킴밀크(skim milk)를 이용하여 1시간 동안 블로킹(blocking)하였다. 이를 1×TTBS 용액으로 3회 세척하고 1차 항체(SPT, Abcam, USA)를 4℃에서 오버나잇(over night) 반응시킨 후, HRP가 결합된 2차 항체를 실온에서 2시간동안 반응시켰다. 그 후, 1×TTBS로 3회 세척하고 ECL용액을 반응시켜 케미닥(Chemi Doc) 기기로 밴드를 검출하였다. 베타-액틴(β-actin)의 발현 기준으로 정량하여 SPT 발현량을 계산하였으며 Image J 1.47 software를 이용하여 수치화하였으며, 결과를 도 3에 나타내었다.Human-derived keratinocytes (HaCaT) were distributed at 3×10 5 cells/well in a 12 well-plate, and the cells were stabilized in a cell incubator at 37°C and 5% CO 2 for one day. The Jacarandaia extracts of Example 6 and Comparative Example were treated at different concentrations (12.5 ㎍, 25 ㎍, 50 ㎍, 100 ㎍), reacted for 6 hours, and then cells were collected using a scraper. Proteins were separated using 1×cell lysis buffer, quantified by BCA assay, and then a certain amount of proteins were electrophoresed on a 10% SDS-PAGE gel. The separated proteins on the gel were transferred to a PVDF membrane and blocked for 1 hour using 5% skim milk. This was washed three times with 1×TTBS solution and reacted with primary antibody (SPT, Abcam, USA) at 4°C overnight, and then reacted with HRP-conjugated secondary antibody at room temperature for 2 hours. Afterwards, it was washed three times with 1×TTBS, reacted with ECL solution, and the band was detected with a Chemi Doc instrument. The SPT expression level was calculated by quantification based on the expression of beta-actin and quantified using Image J 1.47 software, and the results are shown in Figure 3.
도 3은 공융용매로 추출한 실시예 6의 능소화추출물과 95%(v/v) 에탄올 수용액으로 추출한 비교예의 능소화추출물의 세린-팔미토일 전이효소(Serine-palmitoyl transferase, SPT)의 발현 촉진 효과를 비교한 실험 결과를 나타내는 도면이다. 이를 통해 상기 실시예 6의 공융용매로 추출한 능소화추출물은 세린-팔미토일전이효소(Serine-palmitoyl transferase, SPT)의 발현을 촉진시키는 것을 확인할 수 있다. 특히 공융용매로 추출한 능소화추출물은 100㎍/ml의 농도에서 95%(v/v) 에탄올 수용액 대비 세린-팔미토일 전이효소(Serine-palmitoyl transferase, SPT)의 발현을 13.1% 증가시켰다.Figure 3 compares the effect of promoting the expression of serine-palmitoyl transferase (SPT) of the Jacarandaia chinensis extract of Example 6 extracted with a eutectic solvent and that of the Comparative Example extracted with a 95% (v/v) ethanol aqueous solution. This is a drawing showing the results of an experiment. Through this, it can be confirmed that the Japanese chinensis extract extracted with the eutectic solvent of Example 6 promotes the expression of serine-palmitoyl transferase (SPT). In particular, the J. chinensis extract extracted with a eutectic solvent increased the expression of serine-palmitoyl transferase (SPT) by 13.1% compared to the 95% (v/v) ethanol aqueous solution at a concentration of 100㎍/ml.
[실험예 3: 능소화추출물의 Filaggrin 발현 촉진 효과 확인][Experimental Example 3: Confirmation of the effect of Jia chinensis extract on promoting Filaggrin expression]
Filaggrin은 피부 장벽 속 천연보습인자의 생성을 돕는 피부 단백질로, 표피세포에서 분리된 가늘고 미세한 섬유를 결집시켜주는 각질 세포 속 단백질이다. Filaggrin은 각질 세포 간의 결합과 같은 접착제의 역할을 하는 동시에 각질세포막을 구성하는 단백질의 결합에도 관여하며 세포간 지질을 분비하는 기능을 가진다. 따라서 각질 세포 속 Filaggrin이 부족하게 되면, 각질층의 각질 세포 간의 결합이 약해져 외부 자극이 피부 안쪽으로 쉽게 전달되며 피부 장벽이 무너지게 된다. 또한 각질 세포 내의 자연보습인자(natural moisturizing factor, NMF)는 Filaggrin의 분해 산물로 만들어지기 때문에, Filaggrin이 부족할 경우 피부 장벽이 무너져 수분 유지력이 줄어들며 피부가 건조해진다.Filaggrin is a skin protein that helps produce natural moisturizing factors in the skin barrier, and is a protein in keratinocytes that binds together thin and fine fibers separated from epidermal cells. Filaggrin acts as an adhesive, such as binding between keratinocytes, and is also involved in binding proteins that make up the keratinocyte membrane and has the function of secreting intercellular lipids. Therefore, when Filaggrin in keratinocytes is lacking, the bonds between keratinocytes in the stratum corneum become weak, allowing external stimuli to be easily transmitted into the skin, causing the skin barrier to collapse. In addition, because the natural moisturizing factor (NMF) in keratinocytes is made from the breakdown product of Filaggrin, if Filaggrin is lacking, the skin barrier collapses, moisture retention is reduced, and the skin becomes dry.
상기 실시예 6의 공융용매로 추출한 능소화추출물의 피부 장벽 기능 강화 효과를 확인하기 위해 Filaggrin 발현 촉진 효과를 확인하였다.In order to confirm the effect of strengthening the skin barrier function of the Japanese chinensis extract extracted with the eutectic solvent of Example 6, the effect of promoting Filaggrin expression was confirmed.
인간유래 각질형성세포(HaCaT)를 12 well-plate에 3×105 cells/well로 분주한 후, 37℃, 5% CO2 세포 배양기에서 하루 동안 세포를 안정화시켰다. 상기 실시예 6 및 비교예의 능소화추출물을 농도별로 희석하여 처리하고 6시간 동안 배양하였다. 6시간 후 scraper를 이용하여 세포를 수집하고 PBS 용액으로 세척하였다. Trizol법을 이용하여 RNA를 분리하고 PCR을 수행한 후 2% agarose gel에서 전기영동하여 밴드를 검출하였다. 밴드는 Image J 1.47 software를 이용하여 수치화하였고 발현 억제율은 control 대비하여 백분율로 나타내었다.Human-derived keratinocytes (HaCaT) were distributed in a 12 well-plate at 3×10 5 cells/well, and the cells were stabilized in a cell incubator at 37°C and 5% CO 2 for one day. The Jacarandaia extracts of Example 6 and Comparative Example were diluted according to concentration, treated, and cultured for 6 hours. After 6 hours, cells were collected using a scraper and washed with PBS solution. RNA was isolated using the Trizol method, PCR was performed, and bands were detected by electrophoresis on a 2% agarose gel. The bands were quantified using Image J 1.47 software, and the expression inhibition rate was expressed as a percentage compared to the control.
표 2 및 도 4는 각질 형성 세포에 공융용매로 추출한 실시예 6의 능소화추출물을 농도별(12.5㎍, 25㎍, 50㎍, 100㎍)로 처리한 경우와 95%(v/v) 에탄올 수용액으로 추출한 비교예의 능소화추출물의 Filaggrin 발현 촉진 효과를 비교한 실험 결과를 나타내고 있다. 능소화추출물의 농도가 12.5㎍/ml 이상인 경우, 95%(v/v) 에탄올 수용액으로 추출한 능소화추출물에 비해 Filaggrin 발현량이 증가하는 것으로 확인되었고, 공융용매로 추출한 능소화추출물의 농도가 25㎍/ml 이상인 경우, Filaggrin 발현량이 상당히 증가하였다. 이를 통해 공융용매로 추출한 능소화추출물은 Filaggrin의 발현을 증가시켜 피부 장벽 기능 강화에 우수한 효능을 나타냄을 확인할 수 있다.Table 2 and Figure 4 show the case where keratinocytes were treated with the Jacarandaia chinensis extract of Example 6 extracted with a eutectic solvent at different concentrations (12.5 μg, 25 μg, 50 μg, 100 μg) and a 95% (v/v) ethanol aqueous solution. It shows the results of an experiment comparing the effect of promoting Filaggrin expression of the Jaspermosa extract of the comparative example extracted by . When the concentration of the Japanese apricot chinensis extract was higher than 12.5㎍/ml, it was confirmed that the expression level of Filaggrin increased compared to the extract extracted with a 95% (v/v) ethanol aqueous solution. In this case, the expression level of Filaggrin significantly increased. Through this, it can be confirmed that the Jaffia chinensis extract extracted with a eutectic solvent increases the expression of Filaggrin and exhibits excellent efficacy in strengthening the skin barrier function.
[실험예 4: 능소화추출물의 Desmoglein-1 발현 촉진 효과 확인][Experimental Example 4: Confirmation of the effect of Jia chinensis extract on promoting Desmoglein-1 expression]
각질 세포는 desmosome이라는 단백질 구조를 통해 서로 강하게 결합하여 밀착되어 있는데, 이는 세포로 하여금 외부적인 자극으로부터 손상되지 않도록 보호한다. desmoglein-1은 desmosome을 구성하고 있다고 알려진 단백질로 표피의 과립세포층 세포 간격에 위치하여 인접한 세포들을 접합시켜 단단히 결합할 수 있도록 하여 피부 장벽을 튼튼하게 하며 각질형성세포 간의 밀착연접(tight junction, TJ)에 관여한다. 밀착연접은 피부 장벽으로서 각질층과 상호 보완적인 기능을 수행하는데, 세포 간의 부착을 연계해 인체 내부의 수분 손실 및 외부 유해물질의 침입을 막는 역할을 한다.Keratinocytes are strongly bonded and adhered to each other through a protein structure called desmosome, which protects the cells from damage from external stimuli. Desmoglein-1 is a protein known to make up desmosomes. It is located in the intercellular space of the granule cell layer of the epidermis and connects adjacent cells to form a tight bond, strengthening the skin barrier and forming tight junctions (TJs) between keratinocytes. involved in Tight junctions perform a complementary function with the stratum corneum as a skin barrier, linking adhesion between cells to prevent moisture loss inside the human body and the intrusion of external harmful substances.
상기 실시예 6의 공융용매로 추출한 능소화추출물의 피부 장벽 기능 강화 효과를 확인하기 위해 Desmoglein-1의 발현 효과를 확인하였다.In order to confirm the effect of strengthening the skin barrier function of the Japanese chinensis extract extracted with the eutectic solvent of Example 6, the effect of expression of Desmoglein-1 was confirmed.
인간유래 각질형성세포(HaCaT)를 12 well-plate에 3×105 cells/well의 농도로 분주하여, 37℃, 5% CO2 조건에서 하루 동안 배양하였다. 배양 배지를 제거하고, 상기 실시예 6 및 비교예의 능소화추출물을 12.5~100㎍/ml의 농도로 계열 희석하여 6시간 동안 반응시켰다. 1×PBS로 한번 세척한 후 세포를 수집하고 1×세포 용해 버퍼(cell lysis buffer)를 이용하여 단백질을 분리하였다. 그 후, BCA 정량법으로 단백질을 정량하여 일정량의 단백질을 10% SDS-PAGE 겔에서 100V로 3시간 동안 전기영동 시켰다. PVDF 멤브레인에 전이(transfer)시킨 후 5% skim milk를 이용하여 1시간 동안 블로킹(blocking)하였다. 1차 항체를 4℃에서 오버나잇(over night) 반응시키고, HRP가 결합된 2차 항체를 실온에서 2시간 동안 반응시켰다. 그 후, 1×TBS/T로 3-4회 세척하고 ECL 시약과 반응시켜 Chemi Doc 기기로 밴드를 확인하였다. 각 밴드는 베타-액틴(β-actin)의 발현을 기준으로 정량하여 계산하였다.Human-derived keratinocytes (HaCaT) were distributed in a 12 well-plate at a concentration of 3 × 10 5 cells/well and cultured for one day at 37°C and 5% CO 2 conditions. The culture medium was removed, and the Jacarandaia chinensis extract of Example 6 and Comparative Example was serially diluted to a concentration of 12.5 to 100 μg/ml and reacted for 6 hours. After washing once with 1×PBS, cells were collected, and proteins were separated using 1×cell lysis buffer. Afterwards, the protein was quantified using the BCA quantitative method, and a certain amount of protein was electrophoresed in a 10% SDS-PAGE gel at 100 V for 3 hours. After transferring to the PVDF membrane, blocking was performed for 1 hour using 5% skim milk. The primary antibody was reacted overnight at 4°C, and the HRP-conjugated secondary antibody was reacted at room temperature for 2 hours. Afterwards, it was washed 3-4 times with 1×TBS/T, reacted with ECL reagent, and the band was confirmed with a Chemi Doc instrument. Each band was quantified and calculated based on the expression of beta-actin.
표 3 및 도 5는 공융용매로 추출한 실시예 6의 능소화추출물과 95%(v/v) 에탄올 수용액으로 추출한 비교예의 능소화추출물의 Desmoglein-1 발현 촉진 효과를 비교한 실험 결과를 나타내고 있다. 이를 통해 알 수 있듯이, 상기 실시예 6의 공융용매로 추출한 능소화추출물은 농도 의존적으로 desmoglein-1의 발현을 증가시킨다. 공융용매로 추출한 능소화추출물은 12.5㎍/ml 농도부터 유의적인 효능을 보이며 100㎍/ml 농도에서 최대 16.1% 발현이 증가하였다. 이를 통해 능소화추출물이 세포 간 junction에 관여하는 desmoglein-1의 발현을 증가시켜 세포 결합력을 증가시킴으로써 피부 장벽 기능 강화에 우수한 효과를 나타냄을 확인할 수 있다.Table 3 and Figure 5 show the results of an experiment comparing the effect of promoting Desmoglein-1 expression of the Jacarandaia extract of Example 6 extracted with a eutectic solvent and the Jacarandaia chinensis extract of Comparative Example extracted with a 95% (v/v) ethanol aqueous solution. As can be seen from this, the Jacaranda chinensis extract extracted with the eutectic solvent of Example 6 increases the expression of desmoglein-1 in a concentration-dependent manner. The extract of Jia chinensis extracted with a eutectic solvent showed significant efficacy starting at a concentration of 12.5 ㎍/ml, and the expression increased by up to 16.1% at a concentration of 100 ㎍/ml. Through this, it can be confirmed that the extract of the chinensis chinensis has an excellent effect in strengthening the skin barrier function by increasing the expression of desmoglein-1, which is involved in intercellular junctions, thereby increasing cell cohesion.
본 발명의 화장료 조성물의 제형은 화장수, 젤, 수용성 리퀴드, 크림, 에센스, 침적마스크류, 수중유(O/W)형 및 유중수(W/O)형으로 이루어진 기초 화장료 제형; 연고; 수중유형 및 유중수형 메이크업베이스, 파운데이션, 스킨커버, 립스틱, 립글로스, 페이스파우더, 투웨이케익, 아이새도, 치크칼라 및 아이브로우 펜슬류로 이루어진 색조화장료 제형; 두피용 제형; 중에서 선택되는 어느 하나인 것이 바람직하다. 또한, 이는 선택적으로 에어로졸 형태로 피부에 적용될 수도 있고, 고체 형태 예컨대 스틱의 형태일 수도 있다. 이는 피부용 케어 제품 및 메이크업 제품으로서 사용될 수도 있다.The formulation of the cosmetic composition of the present invention includes basic cosmetic formulations consisting of lotion, gel, water-soluble liquid, cream, essence, immersion mask, oil-in-water (O/W) type and water-in-oil (W/O) type; Ointment; Color cosmetic formulations consisting of oil-in-water and water-in-oil makeup bases, foundation, skin cover, lipstick, lip gloss, face powder, two-way cake, eye shadow, cheek color, and eyebrow pencils; Formulations for scalp use; It is preferable that it is one selected from among. Additionally, it may optionally be applied to the skin in aerosol form or in solid form, such as in the form of a stick. It can also be used as skin care products and makeup products.
본 발명에 따른 조성물은 또한 화장 분야에서 통상적인 보조제, 예컨대 친수성 또는 친유성 겔화제, 친수성 또는 친유성 활성제, 보존제, 항산화제, 용매, 방향제, 충전제, 차단제, 안료, 흡취제 및 염료를 함유할 수 있다. 이러한 다양한 보조제의 양은 당해 분야에서 통상적으로 사용되는 양이며, 예컨대 조성물 총중량에 대해 0.01 내지 50.0 중량%이다. 어떠한 경우라도 보조제 및 그 비율은 본 발명에 따른 화장료 조성물의 바람직한 성질에 악영향을 미치지 않도록 선택될 것이다.The compositions according to the invention may also contain auxiliaries customary in the cosmetic field, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic activators, preservatives, antioxidants, solvents, fragrances, fillers, blocking agents, pigments, odorants and dyes. You can. The amounts of these various auxiliaries are those commonly used in the art, for example, 0.01 to 50.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In any case, the auxiliaries and their proportions will be selected so as not to adversely affect the desirable properties of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention.
[제형예 1: 능소화추출물을 함유하는 화장료 조성물의 제조][Formulation Example 1: Preparation of a cosmetic composition containing Jacaranda chinensis extract]
본 제형예에서는 상기 실시예 6의 공융용매로 추출한 능소화추출물이 5.0 중량% 포함된 피부 장벽 기능 강화용 화장료 조성물을 아래 표 4와 같은 배합비로 제조하였다. 조성물은 하기 표의 조성으로 설명하나, 여러 가지 제형으로 응용이 가능하며, 이는 본 발명을 한정하고자 함이 아니라 단지 구체적으로 설명하고자 함이다.In this formulation example, a cosmetic composition for strengthening the skin barrier function containing 5.0% by weight of the Japanese chinensis extract extracted with the eutectic solvent of Example 6 was prepared in the mixing ratio shown in Table 4 below. The composition is described by the composition in the table below, but it can be applied in various formulations, and this is not intended to limit the present invention, but is only intended to specifically explain it.
[실험예 5: 능소화추출물을 함유하는 화장료 조성물의 경피수분손실량 측정][Experimental Example 5: Measurement of transepidermal water loss of cosmetic composition containing Jacaranda chinensis extract]
경피수분손실량(trans epidermal water loss, TEWL)은 피부의 장벽 기능이 상실되었을 때, 피부 내부의 수분이 증발되는 것을 의미하며, 경피수분손실량이 적정량을 넘어갈 경우, 유분과 수분의 균형이 깨져 유분은 많지만 수분은 부족한 상태로 건조함을 느끼게 된다.Trans epidermal water loss (TEWL) refers to the evaporation of moisture inside the skin when the skin's barrier function is lost. When transepidermal water loss exceeds the appropriate amount, the balance between oil and water is broken and oil is lost. Although there is a lot of moisture, it feels dry due to lack of moisture.
테이프를 이용하여 팔하박부 안쪽의 피부 2곳을 스트래핑 방법으로 피부의 각질을 인위적으로 제거한 후, 상기 제형예 1과 비교제형예 1을 각각 도포한 후, 도포 1시간, 2시간, 4시간 6시간 후에 경피 수분 손실량 측정기(Tewameter TM 300, Courage and Khazaka Germany)를 이용하여 피부의 수분 증발량을 측정하였다.After artificially removing dead skin cells by strapping two areas of the skin inside the lower arm using tape, apply Formulation Example 1 and Comparative Formulation Example 1, respectively, and apply for 1 hour, 2 hours, 4 hours, and 6 hours. Later, the amount of water evaporation from the skin was measured using a transdermal water loss meter (Tewameter TM 300, Courage and Khazaka Germany).
표 5 및 도 6은 공융용매로 추출한 능소화추출물을 함유한 화장료 조성물인 제형예 1 및 비교제형예 1의 경피수분손실량을 나타낸 실험 결과를 나타내고 있다. 본 발명의 제형예 1이 비교제형예 1에 비해 경피수분손실량이 매우 낮은 것을 확인하였으며, 특히 본 발명의 제형예 1은 시간의 경과에 따라 경피수분손실량이 감소되었다. 상기와 같은 결과로부터 공융용매로 추출한 능소화추출물을 함유하는 화장료 조성물의 우수한 피부 장벽 기능 개선 효과를 확인할 수 있다.Table 5 and Figure 6 show the experimental results showing the amount of transdermal water loss of Formulation Example 1 and Comparative Formulation Example 1, which are cosmetic compositions containing Jacaranda chinensis extract extracted with a eutectic solvent. It was confirmed that Formulation Example 1 of the present invention had a very low transepidermal water loss compared to Comparative Formulation Example 1. In particular, Formulation Example 1 of the present invention had a reduced transepidermal water loss over time. From the above results, it can be confirmed that the excellent skin barrier function improvement effect of the cosmetic composition containing the Jacarandaia extract extracted with a eutectic solvent.
본 발명은 능소화를 공융용매로 추출하여 능소화의 유효성분인 Ursolic acid의 추출 효율을 증가시킬 수 있으며, 이를 통해 피부 장벽 기능 강화 효과가 향상된 화장료 조성물을 제조할 수 있다.The present invention can increase the extraction efficiency of Ursolic acid, the active ingredient of Jacaranda, by extracting Jacaranda with a eutectic solvent, and through this, a cosmetic composition with improved skin barrier function strengthening effect can be manufactured.
Claims (10)
상기 수소결합 공여체는 1,3-프로판다이올(1,3-propandiol), 1,2-헥산다이올(1,2-Hexanediol), 1,3-부틸렌 글리콜(1,3-Butylene glycol), 에틸렌 글리콜(Ethylene Glycol), 폼아마이드(Formamide), 글루코스(Glucose), 글리세롤(Glycerol), 젖산(Lactic acid), 레불린산(Levulinic acid), 말산(Malic acid), 솔비톨(Sorbitol), 요소(Urea), 자일로스(Xylose) 및 이들의 조합들로 이루어진 군으로부터 선택되는 1종 이상을 포함하며,
상기 수소결합 수용체는 아스코르브산(Ascorbic acid), 알라닌(Alanine), 아디프산(Adipic acid), 비테인(Betaine), 시트르산(Citric acid), 염화콜린(Choline Chloride), 글리신(Glycine), 글루코스(Glucose), L-카르니틴(L-carnitine), 프롤린(Proline), 니코틴아미드(Nicotinamide), 숙신산(Succinic acid), 아세트산나트륨(Sodium acetate), 하이드록시프롤린(Hydroxyproline), 히스티딘(Histidine) 및 이들의 조합들로 이루어진 군으로부터 선택되는 1종 이상을 포함하는 능소화추출물을 함유한 화장료 조성물.
The extraction efficiency of the active ingredient, ursolic acid, is increased by using a eutectic solvent consisting of a hydrogen bond donor and a hydrogen bond acceptor as a solvent for extracting quince.
The hydrogen bond donor is 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, and 1,3-butylene glycol. , Ethylene Glycol, Formamide, Glucose, Glycerol, Lactic acid, Levulinic acid, Malic acid, Sorbitol, Urea (Urea), xylose, and combinations thereof.
The hydrogen bond receptors include ascorbic acid, alanine, adipic acid, betaine, citric acid, choline chloride, glycine, and glucose. (Glucose), L-carnitine, Proline, Nicotinamide, Succinic acid, Sodium acetate, Hydroxyproline, Histidine and these A cosmetic composition containing a Japanese chinensis extract containing at least one selected from the group consisting of combinations of.
상기 수소결합 공여체와 수소결합 수용체는 1:10 내지 10:1의 몰 비율로 혼합되는 것을 특징으로 하는 능소화추출물을 함유한 화장료 조성물.
According to clause 1,
A cosmetic composition containing a chinensis extract, characterized in that the hydrogen bond donor and the hydrogen bond acceptor are mixed at a molar ratio of 1:10 to 10:1.
상기 능소화추출물은 화장료 조성물 전체 중량에 대하여 추출물을 0.01~50.0 중량%로 함유하는 것을 특징으로 하는 능소화추출물을 함유한 화장료 조성물.
According to clause 1,
A cosmetic composition containing a Jacarandaia extract, characterized in that the extract contains 0.01 to 50.0% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
(b) 수소결합 공여체와 수소결합 수용체를 혼합하여 공융용매를 제조하는 단계;
(c) 상기 (a)의 분쇄물에 상기 (b)의 공융용매를 중량 대비 10배 첨가하여 추출하는 단계;
(d) 상기 (c) 단계의 추출로 얻은 추출물을 여과하는 단계; 및
(e) 상기 (a)~(d) 단계를 통해 제조된 능소화추출물을 함유하는 화장료 조성물을 제조하는 단계;를 포함하며,
상기 (b) 단계에서 수소결합 공여체는 1,3-프로판다이올(1,3-propandiol), 1,2-헥산다이올(1,2-Hexanediol), 1,3-부틸렌 글리콜(1,3-Butylene glycol), 에틸렌 글리콜(Ethylene Glycol), 폼아마이드(Formamide), 글루코스(Glucose), 글리세롤(Glycerol), 젖산(Lactic acid), 레불린산(Levulinic acid), 말산(Malic acid), 솔비톨(Sorbitol), 요소(Urea), 자일로스(Xylose) 및 이들의 조합들로 이루어진 군으로부터 선택되는 1종 이상을 포함하며,
수소결합 수용체는 아스코르브산(Ascorbic acid), 알라닌(Alanine), 아디프산(Adipic acid), 비테인(Betaine), 시트르산(Citric acid), 염화콜린(Choline Chloride), 글리신(Glycine), 글루코스(Glucose), L-카르니틴(L-carnitine), 프롤린(Proline), 니코틴아미드(Nicotinamide), 숙신산(Succinic acid), 아세트산나트륨(Sodium acetate), 하이드록시프롤린(Hydroxyproline), 히스티딘(Histidine) 및 이들의 조합들로 이루어진 군으로부터 선택되는 1종 이상을 포함하는 것을 특징으로 하는 능소화추출물을 함유한 화장료 조성물의 제조 방법.
(a) preparing pulverized product by grinding 10 g of shade-dried Jacaranda flowers;
(b) preparing a eutectic solvent by mixing a hydrogen bond donor and a hydrogen bond acceptor;
(c) extracting the pulverized material of (a) by adding 10 times the weight of the eutectic solvent of (b);
(d) filtering the extract obtained from the extraction in step (c); and
(e) preparing a cosmetic composition containing the Jacaranda chinensis extract prepared through steps (a) to (d),
In step (b), the hydrogen bond donor is 1,3-propandiol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,3-butylene glycol (1, 3-Butylene glycol, Ethylene Glycol, Formamide, Glucose, Glycerol, Lactic acid, Levulinic acid, Malic acid, Sorbitol Contains at least one selected from the group consisting of Sorbitol, Urea, Xylose, and combinations thereof,
Hydrogen bond receptors include ascorbic acid, alanine, adipic acid, betaine, citric acid, choline chloride, glycine, and glucose ( Glucose, L-carnitine, Proline, Nicotinamide, Succinic acid, Sodium acetate, Hydroxyproline, Histidine and their A method for producing a cosmetic composition containing a chinensis extract, characterized in that it comprises at least one selected from the group consisting of combinations.
상기 (c) 단계의 추출은 30~60℃에서 5~10시간동안 진행되는 것을 특징으로 하는 능소화추출물을 함유한 화장료 조성물의 제조 방법.
According to clause 7,
A method for producing a cosmetic composition containing a chinensis extract, characterized in that the extraction in step (c) is carried out at 30 to 60 ° C. for 5 to 10 hours.
상기 (d) 단계의 여과는 400mesh 여과포로 여과한 후에 whatman #5 여과지로 여과하는 것을 특징으로 하는 능소화추출물을 함유한 화장료 조성물의 제조 방법.
According to clause 7,
The filtration in step (d) is a method for producing a cosmetic composition containing Jacaranda chinensis extract, characterized in that filtration is performed with a 400 mesh filter cloth and then with a Whatman #5 filter paper.
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| KR20210112575A (en) * | 2020-03-05 | 2021-09-15 | 건국대학교 산학협력단 | Preservative composition and extraction method of useful component using the same |
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