KR102347267B1 - Korean traditional dress using paper yarn - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a traditional clothing assembly using a functional branch, wherein the skirt includes a waist of a vest and a jeogori that is worn on the upper part of the waist of the vest and consists of a body and a sleeve, wherein the skirt and the jeogori are partially or entirely It relates to a traditional clothing assembly using a functional branch, characterized in that it is made of a functional branch fabric.

Description

Traditional clothing assembly using functional branches {KOREAN TRADITIONAL DRESS USING PAPER YARN}

The present invention relates to a traditional clothing assembly using a functional branch, and more specifically, a traditional Korean traditional clothing assembly using a functional branch, which is manufactured using a functional branch, to improve activity and to be practically worn in modern life. It relates to a double assembly.

In general, the materials of hanbok that correspond to traditional clothing in Korea are linen (hemp fabric), linen (low hemp fabric), cotton fabric (cotton fabric), silk fabric (pyeongju), and various kinds of liquor (紬), yarn (紗), ra (羅), and neung (綾). , gold (錦), dan (緞), etc. are used. Even if the fabric is woven with the same fiber, there is a difference in the material depending on the weaving state. That is, the appearance or feel is changed by the density, the weaving method, the presence or absence of gloss, the thickness of the yarn, and the processing. Due to these characteristics, each material harmonizes with the shape of the hanbok to represent the unique beauty of hanbok. Since hanbok is a garment with little change in shape, the appearance and use of hanbok were often changed according to the characteristics of the material. For example, there are representative fabrics used according to the season. In summer, hemp or ramie is mainly used, and in spring and autumn, jamisa, gapsa, pearl sand or taffeta are used. In winter, satin, sheepskin, or pongee is mainly used. Various aesthetic properties and uses were created depending on the material. In addition, since the material of hanbok must be able to preserve its unique shape, most of them exhibit a hard nature, which gives a very uncomfortable feeling when worn for a long time and easily wrinkles.

In recent years, attempts have been made to use a variety of western clothing materials in the manufacture of hanbok in order to change the material of hanbok rather than the shape of hanbok. Materials serve as the basis for clothes and not only convey visual and tactile feelings, but also affect the shape of the clothes and affect the overall atmosphere of the clothes. In other words, the material is not limited to a simple material in the manufacture of clothes, but is a central element that enables the expression of various characteristics even in the same type of clothes. Accordingly, the demand for hanbok that can increase convenience without compromising the inherent beauty of hanbok through efficient material selection is increasing.

[Prior art 1] Korean Patent Publication No. 10-0474672 (2005.02.23.) [Prior Art 2] Korean Patent Publication No. 10-03997394 (September 7, 2012) [Prior Art 3] Korean Patent Publication No. 10-0424919 (2004.03.17)

The present invention uses a functional branch that can be practically worn in modern life by manufacturing a traditional garment assembly using a functional branch having a texture unique to Korea, antibacterial property, deodorizing property, dryness and light weight, and improving durability. An object of the present invention is to provide a traditional doubles assembly.

The present invention relates to a skirt part 100 including a waistcoat 110; and a jeogori 200 that is worn on top of the waistband 110 and consists of a body part 210 and a sleeve part 230; The skirt portion 100 and the jeogori 200 is characterized in that part or all of it is made of a functional branch fabric.

중량의 한지를 10mm의 폭으로 절단하여 일정길이의 한지테이프를 제조하는 단계(a); 상기 한지테이프를 길이방향으로 접은 후 압착하는 단계(b); 압착된 한지테이프에 수분을 첨가하는 단계(c); 수분이 첨가된 한지테이프에 1 내지 6개/cm 꼬임을 부여하고 가연 및 권취 하는 단계(d);를 포함하여 제조되는 것을 특징으로 한다.The functional branch is 10

Preparing a Korean paper tape of a certain length by cutting the heavy Korean paper to a width of 10 mm (a); (b) compressing the Korean paper tape after folding it in the longitudinal direction; adding moisture to the compressed Korean paper tape (c); It is characterized in that it is prepared including; (d) giving a twist of 1 to 6 pieces/cm and twisting and winding the Korean paper tape to which moisture is added.

At least one of the waist 110 of the vest, both sides of the body 210 and the ends of the sleeve 230 is made of a blended yarn fabric woven after braiding silk and cationic dyeable polyester to the functional branch. characterized in that

The braided yarn is characterized in that 40 to 55% by weight of functional branch, 25 to 35% by weight of silk, and 15 to 25% by weight of cationic dyeable polyester.

The braid is made of 20 to 60 functional branches as a core yarn, 50 to 60 denier silk as a first sheath yarn, and 20 to 50 denier cationic dyeable polyester as a second sheath yarn, and the first sheath yarn It is characterized in that the second sheath yarn is formed by twisting the twist number of 800 to 900 TPM in different directions.

It is characterized in that the braided yarn is woven into the blended yarn fabric by forming a needle nose in the transverse direction.

The needle nose is characterized in that it consists of a plurality of rings having different sizes.

The present invention can satisfy various functions such as antibacterial property, deodorization property, dyeing property, drying property and environment-friendliness by manufacturing a traditional Korean dress assembly using a functional branch with the material of traditional clothing commonly used, It has the effect of making a variety of practical attire that meets modern needs.

In addition, the present invention proceeds with a series of processes that can improve the elongation and physical properties of the functional branch, and by manufacturing a traditional garment assembly using the functional branch, the durability is significantly improved compared to the clothes made of the conventional branch It has the potential to improve.

In addition, the present invention has the effect that a sense of elasticity can be added to the traditional clothes assembly by making a predetermined portion of the traditional clothes assembly that requires expansion and contraction due to the frequent movement of the body made of a blended yarn fabric.

In addition, the present invention is a material for a blended yarn fabric, in which a braid including a functional branch is manufactured under a predetermined condition to have optimal mechanical strength, and the braid forms a needle nose in the transverse direction and is woven into the blended yarn fabric, thereby providing traditional clothing. It has the effect of holding the shape of the body and adding beauty to the exterior.

1 shows a traditional costume assembly using the functional branch of the present invention.
Figure 2 is another embodiment of the traditional clothes assembly using the functional branch of the present invention, showing that the waist of the vest, both sides of the body of the jeogori and the ends of the sleeves are blended yarn fabric is used.

Hereinafter, a preferred embodiment of a traditional costume assembly using a functional branch according to the present invention will be described.

As shown in Figure 1, the traditional clothing assembly using the functional branch of the present invention is a skirt portion 100 including a vest waist 110; and the vest waist 110 is worn on top of the body portion 210 and In the jeogori 200 consisting of the sleeve part 230; in the skirt part 100 and the jeogori 200 part or all of it is characterized in that it is made of a functional branch fabric (300).

As the functional branch fabric, pulp obtained from softwood, broadleaf, etc. may be used, but it is preferable to use Korean paper processed by using a mulberry material capable of obtaining a lightweight branch. Hanjisa has a strong sense of Korean color in its natural beauty, has a space between fibers, and has a moisturizing function both indoors and outdoors. As such, Hanjisa has a long history with the Korean people, so it can be said that it is a suitable material as a material for traditional clothing that can express Korea. In addition, Hanjisa gives a soft and cozy feeling, and there are various colored papers, so it is possible to make a variety of individual clothes, and there is an effect of preserving the clothes for a long time. In addition, it has various functions such as antibacterial property, deodorization property, drying property, and biodegradability, which are different from the materials of traditional clothing used in general, so it has the effect of meeting the modern needs that pursue practicality and variety at the same time.

In the traditional clothing assembly using the functional branch of the present invention, the functional branch fabric cuts 10 weight Korean paper to a width of 10 mm to produce a Korean paper tape of a certain length, folds the Korean paper tape in the longitudinal direction, and presses it, After adding moisture to the compressed Korean paper tape, 1 to 6 pieces/cm twist is applied to the moisture-added Korean paper tape, and it is characterized in that it is manufactured using functional paper prepared by twisting and winding.

중량의 한지가 10mm로 절단된 한지테이프를 제조할 될 경우, 주름 발생이 용이하여, 가연 공정 시 사절 발생률을 감소시킬 수 있다는 장점이 있다.10

When a Korean paper tape with a weight of 10 mm is cut, wrinkles are easily generated, which has the advantage of reducing the rate of yarn breakage during the false twisting process.

When the Korean paper tape is pressed after being folded in the longitudinal direction, twisting is not uniformly imparted when the false twisting process is performed with a flat surface, and frequent trimming occurs, which can greatly reduce productivity and the quality of the branch. Since there is a problem, the Korean paper tape was folded in the longitudinal direction and then compressed so that the twist uniformity was uniformly produced in the subsequent twisting step.

The addition of moisture to the compressed Korean paper tape is to minimize the occurrence of yarn breakage due to moisture during the false twisting process. More specifically, when the moisture is added to the Korean paper tape using steam heat, the moisture is insufficiently added to the Korean paper tape. Accordingly, it is preferable to add the moisture using a water hose or a spray gun, because twisting is non-uniformly provided, and there is a risk that the Korean paper yarn may be cut.

False twisting and winding by giving 1 to 6 pieces/cm twist to the water-added Korean paper tape is to improve the physical properties such as strength and elongation of the Korean paper yarn. When the twist is less than 1 piece/cm, the mechanical bonding force between fibers may be weakened, and when the twist exceeds 6 pieces/cm, the contractility of the Korean paper yarn increases or the uniformity of the Korean paper yarn decreases due to the twist elasticity. There are problems that could be

According to another embodiment of the present invention, at least one of the waist 110 of the vest, both sides of the body 210 and the ends of the sleeve 230 is made of silk and cationic dyeable polyester in the functional branch. It is characterized in that it is made of a blended yarn fabric woven after braiding.

In terms of functionality, the silk prevents clothes from sagging, makes stitching seamless with other materials, and in terms of aesthetics, silk has an effect that can act as an aesthetic element that adds a sense of elasticity to the soft silhouette of traditional clothing. have.

The dyeable polyester suppresses the occurrence of wrinkles to improve washing properties, can be dyed at a low temperature compared to normal polyester, and excellent color development and fastness are obtained at a dyeing temperature of 105°C to 115°C, so cotton yarn And when mixed with Hanjisa, there is an effect that can easily manufacture traditional clothes having a colorful color.

The blended yarn fabric woven by the braiding of the functional branch, silk and dyeable polyester maintains the shape and line of the traditional clothing by elasticity even in the movement of the body, and has a sense of movement or elasticity. In particular, when the blended yarn fabric is provided on both sides of the vest waist 110 and the body portion 210, the chest is tightened or stretched easily so that when the user raises or moves his arm, both sides of the body portion 210 The user's activity may be improved because the armpit portion is not compressed. In addition, when the blended yarn fabric is provided in the sleeve part 230, it is easy to roll up the sleeve, and even if the rolled up sleeve is returned to its original state, the shape deformation of the sleeve part 230 can be prevented by elasticity. there is an effect

More preferably, the braided yarn is preferably composed of 40 to 55% by weight of functional branch, 25 to 35% by weight of silk, and 15 to 25% by weight of cationic dyeable polyester.

When the functional branch contains more than 55% by weight, the content of silk and dyeable polyester is relatively reduced, and wrinkling and elasticity may be reduced. There is a risk of deterioration of properties and hygroscopicity.

When the cationic dyeable polyester is contained in an amount of more than 25% by weight, the content of silk and functional branches is relatively reduced, and the moisture retention property of the fabric may be lowered or the frictional electrification voltage may be increased. In addition, when contained in less than 15% by weight, it is difficult to suppress the occurrence of wrinkles, there is a problem that the elasticity of the fabric may be reduced.

When the silk is contained in an amount of more than 35% by weight, the content of dyeable polyester and functional branch is relatively reduced, and hygroscopicity and deodorization may be reduced. In addition, when contained in less than 25% by weight, it is difficult to suppress the occurrence of wrinkles, there is a problem that the elasticity of the fabric can be reduced.

More preferably, the braided yarn uses 20 to 60 functional branches as a core yarn, 50 to 60 denier silk as a first sheath yarn, and 20 to 50 denier cationic dyeable polyester as a second sheath yarn, The first sheath yarn and the second sheath yarn may be formed by twisting in different directions at a twist number of 800 to 900 TPM.

If the number of functional branches is less than 20, a thread cutting phenomenon may occur. If the number of functional branches is more than 60, the number of strands decreases, and there is a risk of poor air entanglement in the weaving process. In addition, when the silk is less than 50 denier, and the cation-dyeable polyester is less than 20 denier, the yarn trimming phenomenon may occur, if the silk exceeds 60 denier, and the cationic dyeable polyester exceeds 50 denier, There is a possibility that the fiber exothermic property may fall. Accordingly, it is preferable to use a fineness of 20 to 60 functional branches, 50 to 60 denier of silk, and 20 to 50 denier of cationic dyed polyester, respectively, and more preferably, the fineness of the functional branch is 30, and the fineness of silk is 55 denier, 30 denier can be used for cation dyed polyester island soil.

When the number of twists of the core and sheath yarns is less than 800 TPM, the elasticity of the braid may be reduced, and if it exceeds 900 TPM, the rigidity of the braid may increase to decrease flexibility or mechanical strength. Accordingly, it is most preferable that the number of twists is 800 to 9,00 TPM.

Hereinafter, it will be described that the braided yarn including the functional branch is woven into the blended yarn fabric.

The blended yarn fabric refers to a knitted fabric mass-produced in a factory, not a hand-knitted product. Since the handmade fabric is economical in the manufacturing process, it is preferable to exclude it from the manufacturing method of the present invention.

When the braided yarn is woven by forming a needle nose, it has a structure connected by a loop, and thus has excellent drape, elasticity, and flexibility, and thus is excellent in wearing comfort. In addition, the occurrence of wrinkles is small, and even if wrinkles occur, it is easy to recover to a circular shape.

More specifically, the needle nose is generated by reciprocating left and right, and can be configured to finally form a flat fabric. In addition, the needle nose can be configured to reciprocate in an oblique direction and make an open needle nose and a closed needle nose in a zigzag shape.

In the traditional garment assembly using the functional branch of the present invention, the braided yarn forms a needle nose in the transverse direction, and is preferably woven with the blended yarn fabric. When the needle nose is formed in the horizontal direction, compared to the needle nose formed in the diagonal direction, the property of fixing the shape is excellent. Accordingly, when used in Korean traditional clothing, it can hold the shape of traditional clothing and add beauty to the exterior. In addition, since it has excellent stretchability in the transverse direction, it creates a deformation corresponding to the shape and motion of the human body, so that it closely adheres to the user's body, thereby remarkably improving the fit, and the feel is also soft. In addition, compared to forming the needle nose in an oblique direction, it requires relatively little equipment capital, so it has an advantage suitable for mass production.

More specifically, in the traditional costume assembly using the functional branch of the present invention, the needle nose includes a plurality of rings having different sizes.

The plurality of needle noses are composed of a first needle nose and a second needle nose having a size smaller than that of the first needle nose. More specifically, the difference in length between the first needle nose and the second needle nose is 0.2 mm to 3.0 mm, more preferably 1 mm. The second needle nose region forms a tightening force stronger than the corresponding tightening force formed by the first needle nose region, and when the second needle nose is used for the closing part of the traditional garment, slip generated during the sewing process It has the effect of preventing the development and making the stitching with other materials smooth. Accordingly, by making the aforementioned second needle nose region be provided in the closing portions of the waist 110 of the vest, both sides of the body portion 210 and the ends of the sleeve portion 230, even if the blended yarn fabric is provided in the traditional attire By keeping the finished part neatly organized, it has the effect of preventing the aesthetic feeling from being deteriorated.

The present invention will be described in more detail with reference to the following examples. These examples illustrate the present invention, and the scope of the present invention is not limited thereto.

[Comparative Example] Manufacture of a traditional costume assembly according to a known method

For Examples and Comparative Examples, using Hanjisa, basic traditional clothing jeogori and skirt were manufactured. The manufacturing method was prepared according to the conventional method known in the prior document No. 10-0474672.

[Example 1] Manufacture of a traditional clothing assembly using a functional branch according to the present invention

중량의 한지를 10mm의 폭으로 절단하여 일정길이의 한지테이프를 제조하고, 상기 한지테이프를 길이방향으로 접은 후 압착하였다. 이후, 압착된 한지테이프에 수분을 첨가하고, 수분이 첨가된 한지테이프에 1 내지 6개/cm 꼬임을 부여하고 가연 및 권취하여 제조된 기능성 지사를 이용하여 제직된 기능성 지사 원단을 이용하였다. 상기 기능성 지사 원단은 저고리 전체에 사용되었다.According to the traditional clothing manufacturing method using the functional branch of the present invention, a jeogori and a skirt were manufactured as follows. The shape of the jeogori and the skirt was manufactured in the same way as the previously known shape (FIG. 1), 10

A Korean paper tape of a certain length was prepared by cutting heavy Korean paper into a width of 10 mm, and the Korean paper tape was folded in the longitudinal direction and then pressed. Thereafter, water was added to the compressed Korean paper tape, and 1 to 6 pieces/cm twist was applied to the water-added Korean paper tape, and a functional branch fabric woven using a functional branch prepared by twisting and winding was used. The functional branch fabric was used for the entire jeogori.

[Example 2] Manufacture of a traditional clothing assembly using a functional branch according to the present invention

Manufactured in the same manner as in Example 1, but at the waist of the vest, both sides of the body of the jacket, and the ends of the sleeves (Fig. 2), silk and cationic dyeable polyester are braided to the functional branch, and then woven blended yarn fabric is sewn and used. (FIG. 2) The braid was made of 40 to 55% by weight of functional branch, 25 to 35% by weight of silk, and 15 to 25% by weight of cationic dyeable polyester.

[Example 3] Manufacture of a traditional clothing assembly using a functional branch according to the present invention

Manufactured in the same manner as in Example 1, but at the waist of the vest, both sides of the body part and the ends of the sleeve part, silk and cationic dyeable polyester were braided to the functional branch, and then woven blended yarn fabric was sewn and used, and the braiding was used. uses 20 to 60 functional branches as core yarn, 50 to 60 denier silk as the first sheath yarn, and 20 to 50 denier cationic dyeable polyester as the second sheath yarn, What was formed by twisting the sheath yarn with the number of twists of 800 to 900 TPM in different directions was used.

[Example 4] Manufacture of a traditional clothing assembly using a functional branch according to the present invention

It was prepared in the same manner as in Example 2, but the blended yarn fabric was woven such that the braided yarn formed a needle nose in the transverse direction.

[Example 5] Manufacture of a traditional clothing assembly using a functional branch according to the present invention

It was prepared in the same manner as in Example 3, but the blended yarn fabric was woven so that the braided yarns formed a needle nose in the transverse direction.

[Example 6] Manufacture of a traditional clothing assembly using a functional branch according to the present invention

Manufactured in the same manner as in Example 5, except that the needle nose constitutes the first needle nose and the second needle nose of different sizes. The difference in length between the first needle nose and the second needle nose is 1 mm, and the second needle nose region is positioned at the waist of the vest, both sides of the body of the jeogori, and the ends of the sleeves.

[Experimental Example 1] Physical property evaluation

Table 1 shows the evaluation results of the physical properties of the traditional double assembly prepared in the Examples and Comparative Examples.

division Absorption rate (sec) Drying speed (min) The tensile strength tensile extension comparative example 4 225 550 5.3 Example 1 3 220 740 17.4 Example 2 3 220 760 25.2 Example 3 3 220 780 23.6 Example 4 3 220 820 25.3 Example 5 3 220 810 28.7 Example 6 3 220 820 32.2 test method JISL1907 JISL1907 KSK0520 KSK0520

In Table 1, as can be seen by judging the comparative examples and the examples, when a traditional garment assembly was manufactured using a functional branch, moisture was quickly absorbed and dried, and the tensile strength and tensile elongation were remarkable. could be improved considerably. In addition, Examples 2 to 6 confirmed that the tensile strength and tensile elongation were further improved by using a blended yarn fabric for some of the traditional clothing assemblies requiring expansion and contraction (waist of the vest, both sides of the body, the ends of the sleeves). can do.

[Experimental Example 2] Deodorization evaluation

For the deodorization test of the traditional clothing assembly prepared in the above Examples and Comparative Examples, the deodorization test was performed without washing the traditional clothing assembly, and the results are shown in Table 2.

division Blank concentration (ppm) Ammonia residual concentration (ppm) 0 minutes elapsed 30 minutes passed 0 minutes elapsed 30 minutes passed comparative example 500 - 500 80 Example 1 500 - 500 32 Example 2 500 - 500 31 Example 3 500 - 500 32 Example 4 500 - 500 30 Example 5 500 - 500 31 Example 6 500 - 500 30

In Table 2, as can be seen by judging the comparative examples and examples, when a traditional garment assembly is manufactured using a functional branch, the ammonia residual concentration is significantly reduced than in the comparative example, and the deodorization performance is improved. can check

[Experimental Example 3] Antibacterial evaluation

Table 3 shows the antibacterial test results of the traditional double assembly prepared in Examples and Comparative Examples. Antibacterial properties against E. coli and Staphylococcus aureus were carried out by the KCL-FIR-1003: 2011 method, and Table 3 shows the results of an antimicrobial test without washing the traditional clothes assembly. (Unit: CFU/ml)

division coli Staphylococcus aureus initial concentration concentration after 24 hours initial concentration concentration after 24 hours comparative example

Example 1

Example 2

Example 3

Example 4

Example 5

Example 6

In Table 3, as can be seen by judging the comparative examples and examples, when a traditional garment assembly is manufactured using a functional branch, the concentrations of E. coli and Staphylococcus aureus are significantly reduced than in the comparative example, It can be seen that the antibacterial performance is improved.

[Experimental Example 4] Clothing evaluation

After wearing the traditional clothes assembly prepared in the Examples and Comparative Examples, the clothing evaluation was performed on a 5-point scale based on the following clothing evaluation questions for each movement, and the average score results are shown in Table 4 below.

1) The armpit area is comfortable

2) The chest area is comfortable

3) The front and back shoulders are comfortable

4) The sleeves are comfortable

5) The side of the body is comfortable.

division agitation When arms are raised 90 degrees horizontally forward When you raise your arms to the side 90 degrees horizontally when the arm is raised 180 degrees comparative example 3.0 2.9 2.4 2.1 Example 1 3.9 3.8 3.7 3.5 Example 2 4.1 4.0 3.8 3.7 Example 3 4.0 3.9 3.8 3.7 Example 4 4.2 4.0 3.9 3.8 Example 5 4.4 4.2 4.1 4.0 Example 6 4.5 4.3 4.2 4.0

100: chimabu
110: waist vest
200: jeogori
210: body part
230: sleeve

Claims (7)

A skirt part 100 including a vest waist 110; and a jeogori 200 that is worn on the upper part of the vest waist 110 and includes a body part 210 and a sleeve part 230; In
The skirt part 100 and the jeogori 200 are partially or entirely made of a functional branch fabric,
The functional branch fabric is 10

A Korean paper tape of a certain length is prepared by cutting heavy Korean paper to a width of 10 mm, and the Korean paper tape is folded in the longitudinal direction and compressed, water is added to the compressed Korean paper tape, and then 1 Giving a twist to 6 / cm and using a functional branch prepared by twisting and winding,
At least one of the waist 110 of the vest, both sides of the body 210 and the ends of the sleeve 230 is made of a blended yarn fabric woven after braiding silk and cationic dyeable polyester to the functional branch. lose,
The braided yarn uses 20 to 60 functional branch yarns as a core yarn, 50 to 60 denier silk as a first sheath yarn, and 20 to 50 denier cationic dyeable polyester as a second sheath yarn, and the first sheath yarn A traditional duplex assembly using a functional branch, characterized in that the second sheath yarn is twisted with a twist number of 800 to 900 TPM in different directions. delete delete The method of claim 1,
The braided yarn is a traditional doublet assembly using a functional branch, characterized in that 40 to 55% by weight of functional branch, 25 to 35% by weight of silk, and 15 to 25% by weight of cationic dyeable polyester.
delete The method of claim 1,
A traditional garment assembly using a functional branch, characterized in that the braided yarn forms a needle nose in the horizontal direction and is woven with the blended yarn fabric. 7. The method of claim 6,
The needle nose is a traditional doubles assembly using a functional branch, characterized in that consisting of a plurality of rings having different sizes.

Images