KR102068736B1 - A cosmetic composition for anti-aging comprising extract of coffee grounds - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for anti-aging, it is provided a cosmetic composition comprising a coffee foil extract as an active ingredient.

Description

A cosmetic composition for anti-aging comprising a coffee leaf extract as an active ingredient {A COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR ANTI-AGING COMPRISING EXTRACT OF COFFEE GROUNDS}

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition containing a coffee foil extract as an active ingredient.

Skin is the body's primary protective film that protects organs in the body from temperature and humidity changes, ultraviolet rays, pollutants, and other environmental stimuli, and plays an important role in maintaining body homeostasis.

As the industry develops, environmental pollution becomes serious, and interest in preventing skin aging, whitening, and the like is increasing. In particular, the skin of a person is constantly undergoing a change, the most representative of which is a decrease in skin function and a decrease in visual beauty due to aging. The final appearance of the skin as a result of skin aging is the formation of wrinkles, reduced skin elasticity, the formation of senile spots, the formation of wrinkles is the most typical phenomenon.

Lipids, proteins, polysaccharides, nucleic acids, and the like, which are the major constituents of the skin, can be oxidized to destroy skin cells and tissues, resulting in ageing of the skin. In particular, collagen, hyaluronic acid, elastin, proteoglycan, and fibronectin, which are the connective tissues of the skin, may be cleaved by the oxidation of the protein, and excessive inflammatory reactions may occur. Induction of cancer may be promoted.

Therefore, the protection of cell membranes by eliminating reactive oxygen species, which are mediated by the body's metabolic processes, ultraviolet irradiation, and inflammatory reactions, and by restoring damaged cells through active metabolism, restore skin health. desirable.

Skin aging involves not only the reactive oxygen species but also an enzyme called matrix metalloproteinase (MMP). In vivo, the synthesis and degradation of extracellular matrix such as collagen is properly regulated, but as aging progresses, the expression of substrate metalloproteinase (MMP), an enzyme that degrades collagen, is promoted, resulting in decreased skin elasticity. And wrinkles are formed.

In addition, such a degrading enzyme may be further activated by ultraviolet rays, and there is a need for the development of a substance capable of regulating or inhibiting the activity of MMP expression induced by ultraviolet rays. However, most of the raw materials used in the past as a material of cosmetic products merely inhibit the activity of the degrading enzyme.

The cosmetics industry is developing a number of products using natural products to reduce skin irritation caused by various chemicals. Natural ingredients have less side effects on the skin, and as the consumer's response to cosmetics using natural ingredients has recently increased, the development value of cosmetic ingredients has gradually increased.

On the other hand, the coffee leaf, the residue left after extracting the coffee liquid from the coffee beans, generates a large amount of waste of more than 6 million tons per year, but there is a lack of utilization and treatment methods. Therefore, there is a growing interest in recycling coffee foils, and researches on using coffee foils as fuel, feed or fertilizer additives, or as substrates and biodiesel raw materials for mushroom production have been made.

The present inventors carefully examined the availability and use of the coffee foil, and as a result of optimizing the extraction conditions, it was confirmed that the content of the active ingredient showing the skin improvement effect could be remarkably increased and used as a material of the functional cosmetics.

The present invention is to solve the above problems of the prior art, an object of the present invention to provide a natural cosmetic composition excellent in functionality as well as biosafety.

According to one aspect of the invention, there is provided an antioxidant cosmetic composition comprising a coffee foil extract as an active ingredient.

In one embodiment, the extract may be extracted with ethanol at a concentration of 40 to 60% (w / w).

In one embodiment, the extract may be extracted at 90 to 110 ℃.

According to another aspect of the invention, there is provided a cosmetic composition for improving wrinkles comprising a coffee foil extract as an active ingredient.

In one embodiment, the extract may be extracted with ethanol at a concentration of 90 to 100% (w / w).

In one embodiment, the extract may be extracted at 45 to 65 ℃.

According to another aspect of the present invention, there is provided an anti-aging cosmetic composition comprising a coffee foil extract as an active ingredient.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition is composed of flexible cosmetics, nourishing cosmetics, moisture cream, nutrition cream, massage cream, essence, ampoule, gel, eye cream, cleansing cream, cleansing foam, cleansing water, pack, spray and powder It may be formulated into one or more selected from the group.

Cosmetic composition according to an aspect of the present invention because it contains an active ingredient of a natural raw material is not only beneficial to skin health, but also excellent skin wrinkle improvement and antioxidant effect.

It is to be understood that the effects of the present invention are not limited to the above effects, and include all effects deduced from the configuration of the invention described in the detailed description or claims of the present invention.

1 is an optimization of the polyphenol extraction conditions of coffee foil extract through the reaction surface method.
Figure 2 is an optimization of the collagenase inhibitor extraction conditions of coffee foil extract through the reaction surface method.

The terminology used herein is to select general terms that are currently widely used as possible in consideration of the functions in the present invention, but may vary according to the intention or precedent of the person skilled in the art, the emergence of new technologies and the like. In addition, in certain cases, there is a term arbitrarily selected by the applicant, and in this case, the meaning will be described in detail in the description of the invention. Therefore, the terms used in the present invention should be defined based on the meanings of the terms and the general contents of the present invention, rather than simply the names of the terms.

Unless defined otherwise, all terms used herein, including technical or scientific terms, have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art. Terms such as those defined in the commonly used dictionaries should be construed as having meanings consistent with the meanings in the context of the related art, and shall not be construed in ideal or excessively formal meanings unless expressly defined in this application. Do not.

The numerical range includes the numerical values defined in the range. All maximum numerical limits given throughout this specification include all lower numerical limits as if the lower numerical limits were clearly written. All minimum numerical limitations given throughout this specification include all higher numerical limitations as if the higher numerical limitation were clearly written. All numerical limitations given throughout this specification will include all better numerical ranges within the broader numerical range, as the narrower numerical limitations are clearly written.

Hereinafter, examples of the present invention will be described in detail, but the present invention is not limited by the following examples.

According to one aspect of the invention, there is provided an antioxidant cosmetic composition comprising a coffee foil extract as an active ingredient.

The coffee foil is an extraction residue generated in the manufacturing process of the hot water extract of coffee, and is estimated to be produced more than 6 million tons annually worldwide. In particular, the coffee gourd is used as fuel material, feed or fertilizer additives (Saenger, M., Hartge, E. Werther, J. Ogada, T. and Siagi, Z. 2001. Combustion of coffee husks.Renew.Energ. 23: 103- 121.), sources of functional materials (Simoes, J., Madureira, P., Nunes, FM, Domingues, MR Vilanova, M. and Coimbra, MA 2009. Immunostimulatory properties of coffee mannans.Mol.Nut.Food Res. 53 : 1036-1043.), Biodiesel raw materials (Franca, AS, Oliveira, LS and Ferreira, ME 2009. Kinetics and equilibrium studies of methylene blue adsorption by spent coffee grounds.Desalination 249: 267-272.) ought.

The "comprising as an active ingredient" may mean that it contains an effective amount capable of realizing a skin improving effect, for example, to exhibit collagen synthesis, elasticity improvement or antioxidant effect associated with wrinkle improvement.

The coffee foil contains various physiologically active ingredients, and in particular, the present inventors intended to maximize skin wrinkle improvement and antioxidant activity by optimizing the coffee foil extraction condition and use it as a material of the cosmetic composition.

The term "extract" refers to a solvent in which the active ingredient contained in the extract is transferred by contacting the solvent and the extract raw material under specific conditions. All may be included regardless. For example, extracting a component dissolved in a solvent from a natural product using water or an organic solvent, may include both a specific component of the natural product, such as obtained by extracting only a specific component such as oil.

The extract may be powdered after drying the coffee gourd, or may be obtained by various conventional extraction methods such as hot water extraction and ethanol extraction.

The extract is selected from the group consisting of water, anhydrous or hydrous lower alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, acetone, petroleum ether, ethyl acetate, butyl acetate, trichloromethane, dichloromethane, chloroform, hexane and 1,3-butylene glycol Extracted with one or more solvents, preferably with ethanol.

The active ingredient contained in the raw material may be different in the extraction ratio according to the polarity of the solvent, the ethanol has excellent selectivity in the extraction of physiologically active substances of the natural raw material to achieve the optimal skin improvement effect by the ethanol extraction Can be.

The extract is washed with water, washed with water, dried and pulverized, and extracted with conventional methods such as reflux circulation extraction, pressure extraction, and ultrasonic extraction for about 1 to 24 hours with a solvent having a volume of 8 to 12 times the weight of the raw material. It can be prepared by filtration. In addition, the extract may be obtained in a powder state by an additional process such as distillation under reduced pressure or freeze drying.

The extract may also include an extract that has undergone conventional purification. For example, the extract may be subjected to various purification methods additionally performed, such as separation using an ultrafiltration membrane having a constant molecular weight cut-off value, separation by various chromatography (manufactured for separation according to size, charge, hydrophobicity, or affinity). It may comprise a fraction obtained through.

In particular, the extract may be extracted at a temperature of 90 to 110 ℃ by ethanol of 40 to 60% (w / w) concentration, the extraction efficiency of the polyphenols under the above conditions can be maximized and the antioxidant activity can be increased.

According to another aspect of the present invention, there is provided a cosmetic composition for improving wrinkles or improving elasticity comprising a coffee foil extract as an active ingredient. In addition, the coffee gourd extract has excellent antioxidant and anti-wrinkle effects, and thus may be utilized as a material for anti-aging cosmetics.

The extract may be extracted at a temperature of 45 to 65 ℃ by ethanol of 90 to 100% (w / w) concentration, and the collagenase (collagenase) inhibitory activity is maximized under the above conditions, thereby improving skin wrinkles and elasticity The effect can be increased.

The "wrinkle" refers to the fine lines caused by the skin decay, and may be caused by the cause of the gene, the reduction of collagen and elastin present in the dermis of the skin, the external environment.

The "wrinkle improvement" refers to a phenomenon of inhibiting or inhibiting the generation of wrinkles on the skin or alleviating wrinkles already generated.

The term "skin elasticity" refers to elasticity implemented by elastic fibers composed of elastin present in the dermal layer, and the elastic fibers are easily deformed by external force because they have a low elastic modulus such as rubber, and external force is removed. Can be easily restored to its original state.

The cosmetic composition is one or more selected from the group consisting of flexible cosmetics, nourishing cosmetics, moisture cream, nutrition cream, massage cream, essence, ampoule, gel, eye cream, cleansing cream, cleansing foam, cleansing water, pack, spray and powder Can be formulated.

The cosmetic composition may be formulated by conventional methods. Reference may be made to the formulations disclosed in Remington's Pharmaceutical Science, Mack Publishing Company, Easton PA for the formulation of external skin preparations, and in International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 6th ed (The cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association). , Inc., Washington, 1995).

Specifically, the cosmetic composition may be prepared in a general emulsion formulation and solubilized formulation. For example, lotion, such as a flexible lotion or a nourishing lotion; Latex, such as facial lotion and body lotion; Creams such as nutrition creams, moisture creams, and eye creams; essence; Cosmetic ointments; spray; Gels; pack; Sunscreen; Makeup base; Foundations such as liquid type, solid type or spray type; powder; Makeup removers such as cleansing cream, cleansing lotion and cleansing oil; Or it may be formulated as a cleaning agent such as cleansing foam, soap, body wash, but is not limited thereto. In addition, the cosmetic composition may be formulated as an ointment, patch, gel, cream or spray, but is not limited thereto.

The cosmetic composition may be appropriately blended with other ingredients within the range of not impairing the purpose according to the present invention, depending on the kind or purpose of use of the formulation in addition to the essential components in each formulation.

The cosmetic composition may generally include an acceptable carrier, for example, oil, water, surfactants, moisturizers, lower alcohols, thickeners, chelating agents, pigments, preservatives, fragrances, etc. may be appropriately blended, but is not limited thereto. no.

The acceptable carrier may vary depending on the formulation. For example, when formulated into ointments, pastes, creams or gels, carrier oils, animal oils, vegetable oils, waxes, paraffins, starches, trachants, cellulose derivatives, polyethylene glycols, silicones, bentonites, silica, talc, zinc oxide or theirs Mixtures can be used

When the cosmetic composition is formulated as a powder or spray, lactose, talc, silica, aluminum hydroxide, calcium silicate, polyamide powder or mixtures thereof may be used as the carrier component, and in the case of a spray, chlorofluorohydro It may further comprise propellants such as carbon, propane, butane or dimethyl ether.

When the cosmetic composition is formulated as a solution or emulsion, a solvent, solubilizer, or emulsion agent may be used as a carrier component, such as water, ethanol, isopropanol, ethyl carbonate, ethyl acetate, benzyl benzoate, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylglycol oil may be used, and in particular, cottonseed oil, peanut oil, corn seed oil, olive oil, castor oil and sesame oil, glycerol aliphatic esters, fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol or sorbitan may be used.

When the cosmetic composition is formulated as a suspension, a liquid diluent such as water, ethanol or propylene glycol, suspension agents such as ethoxylated isostearyl alcohol, polyoxyethylene sorbitol ester and polyoxyethylene sorbitan ester, Microcrystalline cellulose, aluminum metahydroxy, bentonite, agar or tracant and the like can be used.

When the cosmetic composition is formulated as a soap, as a carrier component, alkali metal salts of fatty acids, fatty acid hemiester salts, fatty acid protein hydrolyzates, isethionates, lanolin derivatives, aliphatic alcohols, vegetable oils, glycerol, sugars and the like Can be used.

The cosmetic composition may be a fatty material, an organic solvent, a dissolving agent, a thickening agent, a gelling agent, an emollient, an antioxidant, a suspending agent, a stabilizing agent, a foaming agent, and a fragrance which are commonly used in the industry, depending on the quality or function of the final product. Commonly used in surfactants, water, ionic or nonionic emulsifiers, fillers, metal ion rod blockers, chelating agents, preservatives, blockers, wetting agents, essential oils, dyes, pigments, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, cosmetics It may additionally contain adjuvants commonly used in the cosmetic or dermatological arts, such as any other ingredient.

However, the adjuvant and its mixing ratio may be appropriately selected so as not to affect the desirable properties of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention.

Through the following examples, the present invention will be described in more detail, but the present invention is not limited by the following examples.

Preparation Example 1 Preparation of Coffee Leaf Extract

After roasting, Robusta-type coffee bean powder produced and distributed in a blended manner was purchased and used in the experiment. A coffee maker was used to extract water-soluble components by extraction for 30 seconds with water at 90 ° C. using a coffee maker, and the coffee beans powder from which the water-soluble components were removed was dried to remove moisture to prepare a coffee foil.

Different concentrations of ethanol were used as extraction solvents, and ultrasonic extraction was used for low temperature extraction.

2-40 times the volume of ethanol was mixed with the coffee foil powder sample in a closed glass tube, and extracted for 5 to 60 minutes at a temperature of 20 to 100 ° C.

At room temperature, an ultrasonic wave (40 kHz, 200W) was used to extract each condition in the standing-bath form. During extraction, the tube was placed in a stainless rack so that the bottom side of the tube did not touch the bottom of the ultrasonic bath, and the extract and solvent in the container were submerged in water.

1 mL of the extract was transferred to a microtube, centrifuged, and the supernatant was recovered. Dilutions were prepared as needed, and total polyphenol (TPC) and collagenase inhibition activity was used for the measurement.

Preparation Example 2 Optimization of Polyphenol Extraction Conditions of Coffee Flake Extract

In order to examine the relationship between the concentration of polyphenols produced by ultrasonic extraction and each extraction variable, the concentrations of polyphenols were compared by varying the temperature, time and ethanol concentration, which are the main extraction variables.

When the optimization was performed using the response surface method to find the optimum conditions, the maximum polyphenol value of 15.9 mg GAE / g DW was calculated at the extraction temperature of 100.0 ° C, extraction time of 31.9 seconds, and ethanol 54.6% (w / w). 1).

Preparation Example 3: Optimization of the conditions for extracting collagenase inhibitors of coffee foil extract

To investigate the relationship between the concentrations of bioactive substances (collagenase inhibitors) produced by ultrasonic extraction and the relationship between each extraction variable, collagenase inhibitory activities were compared by varying the temperature, time and ethanol concentration, which are the main extraction variables.

As a control, retinol at a concentration of 0.0002 mg / ml was used to inhibit collagenase. When the optimization was performed using the response surface method to search for the optimal conditions of the collagenase inhibitory activity, the maximum collagenase inhibition rate of 182.7% was calculated at the extraction temperature of 55.1 ℃, extraction time 60 seconds, ethanol 100.0% (Fig. 2). ).

Examples and Comparative Examples

In order to verify the anti-aging effect of the coffee gourd extract was set to Examples and Comparative Examples by changing the extraction conditions as shown in Table 1.

division Ethanol Concentration (w / w) Extraction temperature (℃) Extraction time (seconds) Example 1 55 110 32 Example 2 40 110 32 Example 3 60 110 32 Example 4 55 90 32 Example 5 40 90 32 Example 6 60 90 32 Example 7 55 100 32 Example 8 100 55 60 Example 9 100 45 60 Example 10 100 65 60 Example 11 90 55 60 Example 12 90 45 60 Example 13 90 65 60 Comparative Example 1 70 100 32 Comparative Example 2 30 100 32 Comparative Example 3 55 80 32 Comparative Example 4 55 120 32 Comparative Example 5 80 55 60 Comparative Example 6 70 55 60 Comparative Example 7 100 35 60 Comparative Example 8 100 75 60

Experimental Example 1: Skin Safety Test

In order to verify the skin safety of the samples of the Examples and Comparative Examples, MTT assay experiments on fibroblasts (HDF), melanocytes (B16F10), keratinocytes (HaCaT) was performed.

Samples of Examples and Comparative Examples were suspended in purified water by concentration (50 mg / L), respectively, and cell viability was measured.

Cytotoxicity was performed by modifying Mosmann's method of measuring cell viability using MTT {3- (4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl) -2-5-diphenyltetrazolium bromide} reagent.

Fibroblasts (HDF), melanocytes (B16F10), and keratinocytes (HaCaT) were each dispensed in 96-well plates at a concentration of 1 × 10 ⁴ cells / well and incubated at 37 ° C., 5% CO ₂ for 48 hours. It was.

After removing the culture medium and incubating the sample for 48 hours in a concentration-treated medium was removed the medium and washed repeatedly with PBS (Phosphate buffered saline).

MTT was dissolved in PBS at 5 mg / mL, 50 L was added, and incubated at 37 ° C., 5% CO ₂ for 24 hours. 100 L of DMSO (Dimethyl sulfoxide) was added per well, stirred for 10 minutes, and the absorbance was measured at 540 nm.

As a result of the measurement, no cytotoxicity was confirmed at all concentrations of each sample. The results suggest that the sample is not only harmless to the human body but also has excellent human safety.

Experimental Example 2 Measurement of Polyphenol Content

The content of polyphenols contained in the fermented extracts of Examples and Comparative Examples was measured. Polyphenols are excellent in removing radicals and antioxidant activity in the body.

Quantification of polyphenols was performed according to AOAC. 1 mL of a 1N-Folin-Ciocalteu phenol reagent reagent was added to 1 mL of the sample solution in which the samples of Examples and Comparative Examples were diluted 100-fold. 0.2 mL of 1N HCl was added, 10 mL of saturated Na ₂ CO ₃ solution (2% v / v) was added thereto, followed by mixing for 30 minutes at room temperature. After measuring the absorbance at 750 nm, the content of polyphenol was calculated by comparing the absorbance value of a standard curve prepared with galic acid as a standard.

The results of measuring the polyphenol content contained in the samples of Examples and Comparative Examples are shown in Table 2 below.

division Polyphenol Content (mg GAE / g DW) Example 1 15.2 Example 2 14.3 Example 3 14.6 Example 4 15.0 Example 5 14.1 Example 6 14.5 Example 7 15.9 Comparative Example 1 13.1 Comparative Example 2 12.2 Comparative Example 3 13.2 Comparative Example 4 11.9

The polyphenol content of the samples of Examples 1-7 was evaluated at significantly higher levels compared to Comparative Examples 1-4. In particular, it was confirmed that the polyphenol content of the sample of Example 7 using 55.0% (w / w) of ethanol as the solvent and controlling the extraction temperature and the extraction time to 100 ° C and 32 seconds was the highest.

The results suggest that the antioxidant activity of the coffee leaf extract can be significantly increased by controlling the extraction conditions to a specific range.

Experimental Example 3: Collagenase Inhibitory Activity Test

Collagenase enzyme inhibitory activity was measured in vitro to compare the wrinkle improvement effects of the Examples and Comparative Examples.

The degradation of collagen and the formation of wrinkles are caused by the expression of matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) such as collagenase by UV, which causes photoaging, and thus wrinkles are produced. You can check it.

4 mM CaCl ₂ is added to 1 M Tris-HCl buffer (pH 7.5) and 4-phenylazobenzyloxycarbonyl-Pro-Leu-Gly-Pro-Agr (4-phenylazovenzyloxycarbonyl-Pro-Leu-Gly-Pro- Arg, 0.3 mg / mL), 150 μL of collagenase (0.2 mg / mL) was added to the mixed solution of 250 μL of the substrate solution and 100 μL of the coffee foil extract.

After incubation at room temperature for 20 minutes, the reaction was stopped by adding 500 μL of 6% citric acid. After adding 1.5 mL of ethyl acetate, the supernatant was taken, and the absorbance was measured at 320 nm to calculate the inhibitory activity of collagenase. The evaluation results are shown in Table 3 below.

division Collagenase Inhibitory Activity (%) Example 8 182.7 Example 9 175.9 Example 10 176.4 Example 11 176.3 Example 12 172.7 Example 13 173.4 Comparative Example 5 162.4 Comparative Example 6 156.7 Comparative Example 7 159.1 Comparative Example 8 153.6

The samples of Examples 8 to 13 effectively inhibited the activity of collagenase in comparison with Comparative Examples 5 to 8. In particular, the highest inhibitory activity of the collagenase of Example 8 using 100.0% (w / w) of ethanol as a solvent and controlled the extraction temperature and extraction time to 55 ℃, 60 seconds, while the present invention The collagenase inhibitory activity of Comparative Examples 5 to 8 outside the range of was evaluated at significantly low levels.

The results suggest that the collagenase inhibitory activity of the coffee foil extract can be significantly increased by controlling the extraction conditions to a specific range.

The foregoing description of the present invention is intended for illustration, and it will be understood by those skilled in the art that the present invention may be easily modified in other specific forms without changing the technical spirit or essential features of the present invention. will be. Therefore, it should be understood that the embodiments described above are exemplary in all respects and not restrictive. For example, each component described as a single type may be implemented in a distributed manner, and similarly, components described as distributed may be implemented in a combined form.

The scope of the invention is indicated by the following claims, and it should be construed that all changes or modifications derived from the meaning and scope of the claims and their equivalents are included in the scope of the invention.

Claims (8)

delete delete delete It contains coffee foil extract as an active ingredient,
The extract is extracted for 60 seconds by ethanol at a concentration of 90 to 100% (w / w) at 45 to 65 ℃, cosmetic composition for improving wrinkles. delete delete delete The method of claim 4,
Cosmetics formulated with one or more selected from the group consisting of softening cream, nourishing cream, moisture cream, nourishing cream, massage cream, essence, ampoule, gel, eye cream, cleansing cream, cleansing foam, cleansing water, pack, spray and powder Composition.

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