KR101103475B1 - Method for making silk fabrics having three dimensional effect - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention comprises the steps of: a) preparing a composite yarn through the fusing or twisted yarn of heat-fixed special yarn and silk yarn or rayon; b) weaving silk fabrics by including the composite yarn; c) a three-dimensional pattern or textured silk fabric manufacturing method comprising the step of processing a three-dimensional effect on the silk fabric using a three-dimensional pattern or textured thermal processing apparatus and a silk fabric produced by the method.

According to the present invention, it is possible to develop silk fabrics having various shapes and improved aesthetics, and at the same time, irregular crushed, wrinkled, crinkled, newly fluted, etc. It can be given a variety, as well as a very unique texture design. In addition, it is competitive in shortening the processing process and reducing costs, and it is expected to be positive for securing the overseas market by expanding silk consumption and securing competitiveness, and it is possible to develop silk fabrics with unique texture without additional chemical processing aid. It is expected to develop products that appeal to modern consumers who pursue well-being and eco-friendly.

Special yarn, silk, fabric, three-dimensional effect

Description

Methods for making silk fabrics with three-dimensional patterns or textures {Method for making silk fabrics having three dimensional effect}

The present invention relates to a method of manufacturing a silk fabric having a three-dimensional pattern or texture, and more specifically, a) manufacturing a composite yarn through a yarn or twisted yarn of heat-fixed special yarn and silk yarn or rayon; b) weaving silk fabrics by including the composite yarn; c) a three-dimensional pattern or textured silk fabric manufacturing method comprising the step of processing a three-dimensional effect on the silk fabric using a three-dimensional pattern or textured thermal processing apparatus and a silk fabric produced by the method.

In modern times, there are few industries that are not connected with design as it is the age of design. Textile design is also an important factor in determining the value of goods in clothing and textile products. The application of the design of the textile products can be expressed in patterns and textures on the two-dimensional fiber surface, and variously produced through color schemes. However, due to the limitation of being produced on the surface of the fiber, there are limitations on the two-dimensional design elements, and in order to compensate for this, it is urgent to develop a three-dimensional design.

In the field of silk products, innovative ideas also require new ideas to be developed. In order to secure market competitiveness based on the unique sensibility and technology of silk products, the elements of existing simple weaving technology are insufficient, and the processing is not diverse, and the practical difficulties due to the limitation of development due to the limitation of processing method and processing equipment. There is this. On the other hand, the changes in the consumer market are changing rapidly, and eco-friendly products are favored by the well-being trend throughout the industry, and at the same time, they are aimed at aesthetics, fit, health, high sensitivity, and high functionality in response to high-end and diversification. It has already entered an era of high level of complexation and diversification.

Silk has excellent properties such as dyeability, heat retention, hygroscopicity, and elegant gloss, but it has poor practical ability such as wrinkle resistance, friction strength, and shape stability. In addition, as a natural protein raw material has a number of constraints in chemical processing and physical processing. The processing of silk is limited by chemical methods such as sericin fixation, silk polymerization processing, and soft processing, and its application is less than that of other synthetic fibers. There is a method of imparting crimp, irregularities, and bulkiness while minimizing weight loss and physical property loss of silk while forming a form bond. This is a method through chemical processing, which is caused by the excessive use of drugs, environmental pollution, loss of raw materials (embrittlement of the fabric due to residual salts).

If silk is subjected to chemical processing, there is a risk of damaging the inherent sensitivity of silk, so it is necessary to refrain from using chemicals. Therefore, shape-maintenance processing through physical processing is technically significant, and if the unique characteristics of silk are maintained, considerable demand is expected as a fashion product.

The technology to maintain the physical shape of the fiber is commonly applied by heat-compressing the surface of the woven fiber through a roller-type machine with regular or irregular irregularities, wrinkles, wrinkles, etc. in the form of embossing. However, the application of silk, which is a natural fiber, requires a new method to improve shape retention performance due to moisture, which is one of silk's inherent properties. In addition, heat yellowing control, the establishment of a separate weaving preparation process for showing the three-dimensional effect of the surface, tailored tissue search should be preceded.

Accordingly, the present inventors, as a result of earnest research efforts to overcome the problems of the prior art, as a result of properly spun or twisted special yarn and raw material yarn, that is, silk yarn or rayon, whose shape fixing effect is confirmed, and then includes the composite yarn thus manufactured. In the case of making a silk fabric, it was confirmed that the three-dimensional effect can be imparted to the silk fabric by a physical method using a thermal processing apparatus rather than a chemical method, thereby completing the present invention.

Accordingly, a main object of the present invention is to provide a method for producing a silk fabric having a three-dimensional pattern or texture that can impart a three-dimensional effect to the silk fabric by a physical method rather than a chemical method.

Another object of the present invention to provide a silk fabric produced by the silk fabric manufacturing method.

According to one aspect of the invention, the present invention comprises the steps of: a) preparing a composite yarn through the yarn or twisted yarn of heat-fixed special yarn and silk yarn or rayon; b) weaving silk fabrics by including the composite yarn; c) providing a three-dimensional pattern or textured silk fabric manufacturing method comprising the step of processing a three-dimensional effect on the silk fabric using a three-dimensional pattern or textured thermal processing apparatus.

According to another aspect of the present invention, the present invention comprises the steps of: a) preparing a composite yarn through the fusing or twisted yarn of the heat fixing special yarn and silk yarn or rayon; b) pre-staining the composite yarn to prepare a dye yarn composite yarn; c) weaving a silk fabric by including the ombre yarn; d) back dyeing the silk fabric to produce a back dye silk fabric; e) providing a three-dimensional pattern or textured silk fabric manufacturing method comprising the step of processing a three-dimensional effect on the back-dyed silk fabric using a three-dimensional pattern or textured thermal processing apparatus.

In the silk fabric manufacturing method of the present invention, it is preferable that the heat fixing special yarn is an adhesive yarn that melts at 70 to 190 ° C and exhibits an adhesive effect. If the melting point (melting temperature) of the heat fixing special yarn is more than 190 ℃, yellowing phenomenon may occur when applying a three-dimensional effect using a thermal processing apparatus, if the melting point is too low, the heat of the fabric produced This is because the stability of the device is poor.

In the silk fabric manufacturing method of the present invention, the twisting degree of the composite yarn is preferably 180 to 400 T / M. When the degree of twisting of the composite yarn is lowered, the three-dimensional effect of the produced fabric is lowered, and if it is higher, it is preferable to adjust the degree of twisting in the above range because the manufacturing cost of the fabric is increased.

In the silk fabric manufacturing method of the present invention, it is preferable that the weaving is performed by using silk yarn as a warp yarn and using the composite yarn as a weft yarn.

In the silk fabric manufacturing method of the present invention, the three-dimensional effect by the manufacturing method of the present invention can be further highlighted by using a double jacquard method as the weaving method.

In the silk fabric manufacturing method of the present invention, the thermal processing apparatus is composed of a roller of a metallic material and a roller wound from a cotton or paper material in which a three-dimensional pattern or texture is expressed, an apparatus capable of applying pressure and heat to the fabric. Is preferably.

In the silk fabric manufacturing method of the present invention, the processing temperature is the melting point of the heat fixing special yarn to 190 ℃, the processing speed is preferably a speed of processing 0.5 to 2m fabric per minute. The processing temperature should be above the melting point because it must use a temperature capable of melting the heat fixing special yarn, it is because yellowing of the silk may occur when it exceeds 190 ℃.

According to another aspect of the present invention, the present invention provides a three-dimensional patterned or textured silk fabric produced by the above production method.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described more specifically.

The present invention is intended to exhibit a three-dimensional effect on silk fabrics, in which the heat-fixed special yarn is braided or twisted with silk yarn or rayon to apply a physical method, that is, a method using a thermal processing device, rather than a conventional chemical method. It is characterized by.

In order to confirm the unique characteristics of silk, all the weft yarns were weaved using silk and then thermally processed, and according to the inherent properties of silk, a method was needed to solve the reduction of the shape fixing effect after washing. Therefore, a special yarn having a heat-fixing effect was selected, and a composite yarn was manufactured by weaving or twisting the special yarn, silk yarn or rayon with an appropriate T / M, and then weaving using the composite yarn, followed by a thermal processing process.

Heat-fixed special yarn in the present invention means a yarn that exhibits a property that melts when heat is applied, adhesiveness occurs, and the melted form can be maintained when the temperature decreases.

As the heat-fixed special yarn, it is preferable to use a special yarn capable of maintaining the unique advantages of the silk without causing a change in the chemical and physical structure of the silk. Chemical changes affect dyeing and processing, and physical changes are important factors inherent advantages such as silk's inherent gloss and feel.

In the present invention, since the thermal processing apparatus is used to impart a three-dimensional effect to the silk fabric, the search for thermal properties of special yarns is an important part. Special yarns may be structurally thermoplastically formable composite matrix function by heat, and may represent the structure of filament of low melting point (melting temperature) considering the yellowing of the silk. In addition, the structure of the fabric is stably fixed after processing or after special division, and exhibits immobilization effect, and at the same time, the quality of the product must be ensured that no residues and foreign substances remain.

Silk is a natural protein fiber that is susceptible to heat and causes yellowing when exposed to high temperatures for a long time and loses its value as a commodity. Therefore, the selection of special yarns according to various melting points can be important because it affects the processing temperature, dyeing, and the state of the final product.

The selection of the special yarn considering the thickness of the silk yarn is not an important factor, and since the special yarn disappears from the fabric, it is important to select the special yarn in consideration of the three-dimensional strength of the fabric or the texture of the fabric, rather than the type or thickness of the silk yarn.

The yarn or yarn of special yarn and silk yarn or rayon is increased as the number of special yarns is added, and the number of yarns increases the secondary three-dimensional effect. If so, the amount of silk yarn or special yarn covered in rayon will increase. Therefore, as the amount of special yarn included in the silk fabric increases, the three-dimensional effect of the silk fabric increases.

Co-operation or specialty yarn with special yarns causes the fixed effect to be proportional to the increase in T / M, but increases the usage of special yarns. It is good to use. Special yarns are better when the year is considered when considering the tightness of the fabric, but depending on the purpose can be given a desired touch and visual impression by lowering the year. In other words, if you want to make a fabric that is soft enough to slip the second touch processing, it does not need to do a lot of yarn.

Commonly used silk fabrics have a cross-sectional feel and are intended to make a strong fabric with a dense yarn arrangement. Therefore, weaving the fabric by adjusting the density of the warp / weft, such a fragmentary mechanical change is a simple feeling of a flat feeling.

Therefore, the present inventors have developed a double tissue design suitable for the three-dimensional effect fabric from the fabric design to solve the diversification and individualization of consumers from the design and weaving design of the fabric. Various types of designs were developed to identify the purpose role of special yarns at the organization point, and the design organization of various characteristics was searched for optimal stereoscopic effect.

In order to further increase the effect of the three-dimensional effect of the pattern itself, the tissue was represented using a weft double weave, that is, four runners.In order to identify the optimum three-dimensional effect of each organization, eight runners, four eight anomalies, plain weaves, etc. The optimal stereo effect tissue was compared and evaluated against various designs.

When weaving 6 kinds of sample fabrics using plain weave, 4 sheets, 8 sheets, and anomalous tissue by applying the design developed for the effect of steric effect, the steric effect is thin tissue in the order of plain weave> 4 sheets> 8 sheets. The better the stereoscopic effect.

Special yarn applied to the weft was confirmed to play a role of fixing the shape as expected, and showed a constant form fixing effect even at a constant humidity. Therefore, if the silk yarn used as a warp is arranged using a composite yarn in which special yarns are twisted, the shape fixing effect in the warp / weft direction will be more excellent.

In order to further give a three-dimensional effect to the weaving method of the present invention, a double jacquard method may be used. The double jacquard method is a method in which the front and back of the finished fabric can be expressed differently in a manner of being woven with a double slope and a basic plain weave. Compared to the thick weaving method.

There are two types of methods for imparting irregularities, that is, three-dimensional effects, on fabrics: chemical methods and physical methods. Physical embossing processing, that is, processing the three-dimensional effect on the fabric using a thermal processing apparatus associated with the present invention mainly uses a method of giving a three-dimensional pattern and gloss by giving the irregularities to the fabric using an embossed calendar . Embossing calendars are effective in using rollers of patterned steel or similar metal, and rollers wrapped in soft materials such as cotton or paper, and are passed through a heated roller while applying pressure to the cloth. It is better to use a pattern in which the pattern engraved on the roller is transferred to the surface of the fabric. When the above method is used, the protrusion of the pattern is glossy, and the recess is hardly glossy, so the pattern is represented by the difference in glossiness.

In addition to the existing regular irregularities, recently, various embossed materials such as irregular crushed, wrinkled, crinkled, pleated, and fluted are used. It is expected to be more diverse in the future.

The dyeing process is an important process that can make the three-dimensional effect on the fabric surface more visually three-dimensional. In order to express the stereoscopic effect, it is good to have the color effect in the form of similar contrast on the surface. When weaving yarns of completely different colors are woven through the array, the continuous visual effect disappears due to a clear color difference, and it may be a deterrent to the stereoscopic effect with a separate feeling. Therefore, it is effective to show the tone & tone effect of the similar color, and this color can act as a design element expressing the three-dimensional contrast, and can be combined with the three-dimensional effect on the silk fabric to show the optimal three-dimensional effect.

The present inventor was able to complete the three-dimensional effect by expressing the primary base color using the ombre as a weft, heat processing after weaving, and then re-flaming. This is because the three-dimensional visual effect can be given to the surface in harmony with the three-dimensional effect design of the surface, the shape fixing effect through special yarns, and the surface three-dimensional pattern derived from heat processing.

As it goes through the dyeing process, it is important to select the melting point of the special yarn applied to the product in consideration of the dyeing temperature. If the special yarn of 120 ~ 160 ℃ higher than the melting point of 80 ℃ is selected, the shape fixing effect is expected to be excellent.

In the case of conventional silk hanbok, the dyeing using a unique color has caused serious problems due to the low fastness. In particular, a great problem occurred in the fastness of sweat and the like, and various developments have been made to solve this problem, but the result is still insignificant. Therefore, the present inventor tried to apply the tone & tone three-dimensional dyeing technique (Korean Patent No. 10-0793243) to the development fabric of the present invention, it was confirmed that the fastness through it. Tone & tone three-dimensional dyeing technique is to give a unique sensitivity by dyeing the reactive yarn dye to the raw material yarn used as the weft yarn and then dye by acid salt method.

The shrinkage test of the fabric is significant as an indicator of the morphological effect of the fabric. It is also a test for the availability of clothing as an important factor in the commercialization of the fabric. In the case of the comparative fabric, the shrinkage in the weft direction having a lower density was relatively higher than that in the inclined direction, but the development fabric of the present invention can control the weft shrinkage by controlling the weft yarn by the special yarn. The shrinkage rate varies depending on various factors such as tissue point, type of yarn, and density.In particular, the low shrinkage rate in fabrics with high density design and tissue point shows relatively good shape fixation, and the shrinkage rate is controlled. To do this, density, proper organization, and yarn arrangement should be considered from the design process. In order to achieve the optimum stereoscopic effect, it is expected that a special fixation effect will be obtained if the special yarn is administered even on the slope.

The crease of the fabric is affected by the type of fabric, the composition of the yarn, and how the fabric is constructed. Fabrics made of highly elastic fibers may be less fuzzy, less stranded and less dense, and may have more fusiformity than those with more twisted yarns or larger densities.

 The test method of the spindle degree includes an open angle method, a cold pressing method and an external appearance method. The present inventors used the open angle method (KS K 0550). According to the tissue and raw material used in the sample, various morphological stability can be confirmed. As the temperature increases through the experiment of spindle degree according to the treatment temperature, the morphological stability can be confirmed to be improved. The correlation between the processing conditions and the spindle degree suggests that the shape fixing effect is improved through the fracture and partial orientation of the silk structure due to the temperature, speed, and pressure of the processing machine.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to Examples. These embodiments are only for illustrating the present invention, and thus the scope of the present invention is not construed as being limited by these embodiments.

Example 1 Preparation of Silk Fabrics with Three-Dimensional Patterns or Textures

end. Design development

Five kinds of designs have been developed to show the optimal effect of design effect using Computer CAD System (DBTM, Korea).

I. Plywood or Speaker

SHT 2200 (Allma, German) Two-for-One Weaving Machine is used to keep 6 kinds of composite yarns in consideration of various control methods such as steep fixation effect and fineness after weaving. It was prepared using (Table 1).

[Table 1] Composite yarn manufacture

spec. One 2 3 4 5 6
materials Raw silk
+
Grilon silk shoulder
+
Grilon Rayon
+
Grilon Dupion silk
+
Grilon Degummed silk
+
Grilon Rayon
+
Grilon Fineness 21D / 2 × 5D 140/2's × 75D 120D × 75D 110's × 75D 21D / 4 × 75D 75D × 75D  twist 100T / M (S) 406T / M (Z) 100T / M (S) 300T / M (Z) 406T / M (Z) 406T / M (Z)

In the present embodiment, the heat-fixed special yarn grillon (Grilon® Fasern, EMS-Gril Tech, Switzerland) was used, the details of the grillon are as follows.

Grillon is a fiber-shaped yarn that has been produced by the Swiss EMS-Gril Tech company since 1952. It is made to meet ISO-9001 standard and is exported to textile and industry around the world as a special yarn that is completely harmless to the environment and human body in accordance with the standard of ECO-TEX 100, which is recently considered important in the textile industry. It is processed into three categories according to the categories used in the textile industry, which are classified into Technical Fibers, Melt Bonding Yarns, and Polymers for Monofilaments. In this example, a melting bonding yarn was used.

All. Weaving

As a ramp, we used silk yarn of 4A grade of 21 jung / 2 composite yarn and raw yarn. The composite yarn was used as weft yarn, and the tissue was designed and woven to fit the developed design. Weaving fabrics were made using a Lipper G 6300 (Sulzer, Italy) loom, and jacquards were made using LS 1600 (Stuabli. France) and G700 (Bonas. Belgium). Six types of fabrics with different tissues were woven to explore the optimum conditions for the surface treatment of the fabrics (Table 2).

[Table 2] Characteristics of woven fabrics

warp weft
Sample 1 description of silk raw silk yarn 1 .: spun silk denier 21D / 3 183D: Shoulder 210's / 2N body 45 枚 / 2 本 - density 90 58: 58
Sample 2
description of silk raw silk dupion silk + raw silk: yarn 3. denier 21D / 2 120D: 225D body 78.5 枚 / 2 本 - density 157 36: 36
Sample 3
description of silk raw silk raw silk + dupion silk: yarn 3. denier 21D / 2 120D: 225D body 78.5 枚 / 2 本 - density 260 36: 36
Sample 4 description of silk raw silk spun silk: yarn 6. denier 21D / 2 140's / 2N: 150D body 78.5 枚 / 2 本 - density 157 40: 40
Sample 5
description of silk degummed silk solbron: spun silk denier 21D / 2 75D: 190D body 55 枚 / 4 本 - density 220 85
Sample 6
description of silk raw silk dupion silk: yarn 2. denier 21D / 2 120 Nm / 2, 120 D (3: 1) body 78.5 枚 / 2 本 - density 157 76

la. Surface machining

The woven fabric was embossed using a thermal processing apparatus. The processing delivery speed was 1 m / min, and the processing temperature was 180 ° C.

In this embodiment, a sublimation transfer thermal processing apparatus was used as the thermal processing apparatus. Due to the characteristics of the device, special rubber is used for heat resistance, heat is used for the body and driving device, and stainless is used for the insulation roll and engraving.

hemp. dyeing

Tone & tone dyeing technique (Korean Patent No. 10-0793243) was used to show the optimal stereoscopic effect of the developed sample. The reactive pre-dyed wefts are arranged according to the tissues and then weaved, and afterwards, the three-dimensional effect is given a natural visual effect through dyeing after the surface treatment. Ophthalmitis proceeded by the method shown in Figure 1, the posterior salt proceeded by the method shown in FIG.

As a result, fabrics having the characteristics as shown in Tables 3 to 8 were prepared.

Table 3 Weaving Properties of Sample 1 in Developing Fabrics

WARP WEFT One 2 One 2 description of
silk raw silk yarn 1. spun silk
210/2 N silk grade 4A 4A 4A yarn dyeing
(o, x) X O X denier 21/3 63D + 75D  86D doubling 2 - T.P.M (S) 406 - (S) 100 body 45 枚 / 2 本 fabric density
90 58 58 Total density 3,960 patterns Appearance Evaluation Good

Table 4 Weaving Properties of Sample 2 in Developing Fabrics

WARP WEFT One 2 One 2 description of
silk raw silk dupion silk +
raw silk yarn 3. silk grade 4A 4A yarn dyeing
(o, x) X X denier 21/2 120D rayon 120D +
Grilon 75 D doubling 2 - T.P.M (S) 100 (S) 100 body 78.5 枚 / 2 本 fabric density
36 36 157 72 Total density 6,912 patterns Appearance Evaluation

Table 5 Weaving Properties of Sample 3 in Developing Fabrics

WARP WEFT One 2 1 (plain weave) 2 (four positions) description of
silk raw silk raw silk + dupion silk yarn 3. silk grade 4A 4A Harf
degumming yarn dyeing
(o, x) X X X denier 21/2 60/2 225 D doubling 2 - T.P.M (s) 100 (S) 100 body 78.5 枚 / 2 本 fabric density
36 36 157 72 Total density 6,912 patterns Appearance Evaluation

Table 6 Weaving Properties of Sample 4 in Developing Fabrics

WARP WEFT One 2 1 (plain weave) 2 (four positions) description of
silk raw silk spun silk yarn 6. silk grade 4A 4A yarn dyeing
(o, x) X O X denier 21/2  140's / 2N 150D doubling 2 T.P.M (Z) 406 body 78.5 枚 / 2 本 fabric density
40 40 157 80 Total density 6,912 patterns Appearance Evaluation

Table 7 Weaving Properties of Sample 5 in Developing Fabrics

WARP WEFT One 2 1 (plain weave) 2 (four positions) description of
silk Degummed silk Solbron yarn 1. silk grade 4A yarn dyeing
(o, x) X X O denier 21/2 75 D 170 D doubling  (S) 801 / (Z) 640 T.P.M (S) 100 body 55 枚 / 4 本 fabric density
42.5 42.5 220 85 Total density 9,860 books (4930 * 2 width) Appearance Evaluation

Table 8 Weaving Properties of Sample 6 in Developing Fabrics

WARP WEFT One 2 1 (plain weave) 2 (4) description of
silk raw silk dupin silk yarn 2. silk grade 4A 4A yarn dyeing
(o, x) X O X denier 21/2 160D 203D doubling T.P.M (Z) 406 body 78.5 枚 / 2 本 fabric density
157 76 Total density 6,912 patterns Appearance Evaluation

Experimental Example 1. Evaluation of Properties

The evaluation of physical properties was conducted by selecting three kinds of samples (Samples 1, 3, and 4) having excellent appearance evaluation among the developed fabrics. Secondary fabrics were selected and compared.

end. Daylight Fastness Measurement

As a test for confirming the degree of fading in sunlight when the dyed textile product is actually used, it was tested by Fade-O-Meter (Shimadzu, XF-15FN, Japan) by KS K 0700.

The results are shown in Table 9.

[Table 9] Evaluation of Dyeing Fastness of Developing Fabrics

sample

color fastness perspiration
light

acidic alkali color
change color staining color
change color staining cotton silk cotton silk One 3-4 3 2-3 4 3 3 3 3 3-4 3-4 3-4 4 3-4 3 3 4 3-4 3-4 3-4 3-4 3-4 3-4 3 Comparative Fabric 3 3 3-4 3 3 3 3

I. Shrinkage

Shrinkage rate was evaluated according to the method of KS K 0603 (soap solution method) for evaluating the stability of shrinkage of silk and silver fibers. Was measured, and shrinkage was calculated according to the following formula.

The results are shown in Table 10.

[formula]

※ Here L is the average of the measured values before immersion, L 'means the average of the measured values after immersion.

[Table 10] Evaluation of shrinkage of developed fabrics

Spec.
warp weft avg. shrinkage (%) avg. shrinkage (%) One 9.825 1.75 9.883 1.17 3 9.883 1.17 9.633 3.67 4 9.890 1.11 9.832 1.68 Comparative Fabric 9.588 4.12 9.648 3.52

All. Fuchu map

The spindle degree was measured in the warp and weft directions by KS K 0550 open angle method, respectively, and was expressed as wrinkle recovery angle (WRA).

The result is as shown in FIG.

la. Bending characteristics

Using the KES-FB2 system (Kato, Japan), the bending characteristics of the three selected sample fabrics were measured.

The results are shown in Table 11.

[Table 11] Evaluation of Bending Characteristics of Developed Fabrics

Condition
B (g cm ² / cm) 2HB (g cm / cm) warp weft warp weft
Untreated
One 0.0313 0.0142 0.0788 0.0997 3 0.1042 0.2654 0.0184 0.0664 4 0.1384 0.2659 0.0493 0.1114
treated
One 0.1429 0.1494 0.0552 0.0911 3 0.0874 0.2371 0.0263 0.0573 4 0.1526 0.2471 0.0573 0.0891

Example 2.

A flared skirt (bottom of FIG. 4) was prepared using Korean 4 (top of FIG. 4) and a blouse (top of FIG. 5) and sample 1 using Sample 4 of the development fabric.

As described above, according to the present invention, it is possible to develop silk fabrics having various shapes and improved aesthetics, and irregular crushed, wrinkled, crinkled and newly grooved ( Fluted) can be given at the same time, so you can create a variety of unique textures as well. In addition, it is competitive in shortening the processing process and reducing costs, and it is expected to be positive for securing the overseas market by expanding silk consumption and securing competitiveness, and it is possible to develop silk fabrics with unique texture without additional chemical processing aid. It is expected to develop products that appeal to modern consumers who pursue well-being and eco-friendly.

1 is a schematic diagram illustrating a first-order dyeing process in Tone & tone dyeing technique (Korean Patent No. 10-0793243).

Figure 2 is a schematic representation of the secondary post-inflammation process in the Tone & tone dyeing technique (Korean Patent No. 10-0793243).

Figure 3 is a graph showing the degree of spindle test of the development fabric of the present invention by the open angle method (KS K 0550), the degree is expressed by the WRA (wrinkle recovery angle).

Figure 4 is a photograph showing the prototype produced using the development fabric of the present invention, the top is a living hanbok made of sample 4 fabric, the bottom is a flared skirt made of sample 1 fabric.

Figure 5 is a photograph showing the prototype produced using the development fabric of the present invention, the top is a blouse made of sample 4 fabric.

Claims (9)

a) manufacturing a composite yarn through a weaving or twisting yarn of heat-fixed special yarn and silk yarn or rayon; b) weaving silk fabrics by including the composite yarn; c) processing the steric effect on the silk fabric using a three-dimensional patterned or textured thermal processing apparatus, The weaving is a three-dimensional pattern or textured silk fabric manufacturing method characterized in that weaving using a silk yarn as a warp yarn, the composite yarn as a weft yarn. a) manufacturing a composite yarn through a weaving or twisting yarn of heat-fixed special yarn and silk yarn or rayon; b) pre-staining the composite yarn to prepare a dye yarn composite yarn; c) weaving a silk fabric by including the ombre yarn; d) back dyeing the silk fabric to produce a back dye silk fabric; e) processing a steric effect on the backing silk fabric using a three-dimensional patterned or textured thermal processing apparatus, The weaving is a three-dimensional pattern or textured silk fabric manufacturing method characterized in that weaving using a silk yarn as a warp yarn, the composite yarn as a weft yarn. The method of claim 1 or 2, wherein the heat-fixed special yarn is an adhesive yarn which melts at 70 to 190 ° C and exhibits an adhesive effect. 3. The method of claim 1, wherein the twisted yarn of the composite yarn is 180 to 400 T / M. 3. delete The method of manufacturing a silk fabric with a three-dimensional pattern or texture according to claim 1 or 2, wherein a double jacquard method is used as the weaving method. According to claim 1 or 2, wherein the thermal processing apparatus is composed of a roller of a metallic material and a roller wound of cotton or paper material is expressed three-dimensional pattern or texture, the device capable of applying pressure and heat to the fabric Method of producing a three-dimensional pattern or textured silk fabric characterized in that the. The method of claim 1 or claim 2, wherein the processing temperature is the melting point of the heat fixing special yarn to 190 ℃, processing speed is the speed of processing 0.5 to 2 m of fabric per minute, characterized in that the three-dimensional pattern or textured silk Fabric manufacturing method. A three-dimensional pattern or textured silk fabric prepared by the method of claim 1.

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