KR102254463B1 - Manufacturing method of highly sensitive linen-like stretch complex yarn - Google Patents

Abstract

In the present invention, a polyester (FD) partially oriented yarn having a fineness of 80 to 85 denier manufactured at a spinning speed of 2000 to 2900 m/min is stretched at a draw ratio of 1.10 to 1.30 to prepare a polyester prefabricated yarn (TTD), and 90 To 110 De' It relates to a linen-like stretchable composite yarn manufactured by ply-twisting polyester-based latent crimped yarn.
The linen-like stretchy composite yarn produced in this way is a high-sensitivity stretchy composite yarn that has a cool and rough texture similar to linen in the state of the fabric and an excellent melange appearance.

Description

Manufacturing method of highly sensitive linen-like stretch complex yarn

In general, linen material has excellent sensibility, but it is limited to use as a material for clothing products that can have a comfortable fit due to its flexibility and elasticity, and many companies are striving to develop technology for stretchy linen fabric as a method of fabric differentiation and material differentiation. I'm doing it.

As a method to develop stretchy linen-like fabric, spandex and linen fabric are woven together, or spandex and linen covering materials are used, but weaving, dyeing and post-processing are difficult, and product cost increases, making it difficult to use universally. there is a problem.

As another method, synthetic fibers are used to give a linen-like touch and elasticity, and the appearance similar to linen is expressed, but the touch is not luxurious and elasticity cannot be expressed.

The present invention is intended to be applied to product development for Cool Biz by manufacturing a linen-like stretchable composite yarn using a polyester partially oriented yarn (MOY) and a polyester-based latent crimped yarn as yarn.

Currently, the material trend of Global Fashion is being developed focusing on the high-level characteristics of natural fibers, and the development of high-sensitivity materials with the luxurious and natural feel of natural fibers and excellent durability of synthetic fibers is in progress.

Among natural fibers, linen material is a type of “hemp” fiber. It is the first natural fiber used by mankind. It has been used steadily until now, and is in the spotlight as a material for summer clothing for its rough texture. In addition, it has a unique visual pattern effect, excellent moisture absorption, breathability, and a cool feeling, so the demand is constantly increasing.

Linen material is not only difficult to produce raw materials, but also the production process and fabric dyeing process, such as spinning and weaving, is difficult to commercialize, and is not elastic and flexible, and has a lot of wrinkles.Therefore, washing/handling management and application development are limited.

The applicant of the present invention develops a linen-like stretchy composite yarn that highlights the merits of linen materials and compensates for the shortcomings, secures differentiated sensibility and excellent elasticity, satisfies the needs of consumers who simultaneously pursue comfort and splendor, and brand And, through the development of clothing materials and products, much effort was made to expand product sales.

This is a survey of major domestic patents related to the manufacture of linen-like synthetic fibers. Most of them aim to express a look similar to linen by forcibly fusing the material by applying heat in the DTY (Draw Textured Yarn) process.

In addition, most of them aim to develop linen-like products by expressing the TTD (Thin & Thick) effect by controlling the non-uniform draw ratio during the spinning process.

Latent crimped yarn In major domestic and overseas production of composite yarns, modified polyester fibers are used as super yarns, and latent crimped yarns composed of PTT and PET components that express elasticity are used for examination, Most of them are aimed at developing functional products.

The present invention uses polyester partially oriented yarn (MOY) and polyester-based latent crimped yarn as yarns to produce linen-like stretchable composite yarns, thereby producing a touch and appearance similar to linen. It aims to develop a high-sensitivity material for COOL BIZ, which has elasticity while showing).

Korean Patent Registration No. 101884973, Manufacturing method of fabric having excellent linen feeling and silk touch feeling Korean Patent Registration No. 101784691, Majo polyester composite yarn with excellent elasticity and resilience, and its manufacturing method

The present invention was devised to solve the above-described conventional problems, and a polyester (FD) partially oriented yarn having a fineness of 80 to 85 De' manufactured at a spinning speed of 2000 to 2900 m/min is stretched to ), and by ply-twisting 90 to 110De' polyester-based latent crimped yarn with this to produce an elastic composite yarn, the elasticity of the latent crimped yarn is expressed in the fabric and protrudes from the surface of the yarn (TTD ) By expressing the unique touch and appearance of linen, in the case of manufacturing a knitted fabric using this, we can provide a linen-like knitted fabric that meets the Cool-biz trend of cool clothes that helps to spend the summer cool as a material for clothing. Its purpose is to provide an elastic composite yarn.

In order to achieve the above object, the present invention provides a polyester (FD) partial oriented yarn production step of 80 to 85 De' of fineness produced at a spinning speed of 2000 to 2900 m/min; A polyester (TTD) forming step prepared by stretching the polyester (FD) partially oriented yarn at a draw ratio of 1.10 to 1.30; A stretchable composite yarn ply-twisted yarn step of ply-twisting the polyester TTD yarns and 90 to 110De' polyester-based latent crimped yarns; And it provides a method for producing a high-sensitivity linen-like stretchy composite yarn comprising a winding step of winding the ply-twisted stretchy composite yarn.

In addition, the polyester (FD) partially oriented yarn provides a method of manufacturing a high-sensitivity linen-like stretchable composite yarn, characterized in that it has a strength of 1.8 to 2.0 g/De' and an elongation of 140 to 150%.

In addition, the polyester stance yarn (TTD) provides a method for manufacturing a high-sensitivity linen-like stretchable composite yarn, characterized in that the prenatal frequency in the prenatal cross section is 82% or more, and the post-section cross-sectional area ratio is 2.3 to 3.2.

On the one hand, it provides a high-sensitivity lyocell and polyester composite processing, characterized in that manufactured by the above manufacturing method.

According to the present invention, by ply-twisting a high-possible polyester stance yarn and a 90 to 110 De' polyester-based latent crimped yarn to produce an elastic composite yarn, a polyester stance yarn is located in the outer part of the linen material and differentiated from the existing one. It provides a high-sensitivity linen-like stretchy composite yarn that expresses functionality that meets the recent Cool Biz trend by showing a similar Natura-like look and touch.

By using a 90 to 110 De' polyester-based latent crimped yarn, it provides a high-sensitivity linen-like stretchy composite yarn that can exhibit excellent stretchability and elastic recovery rate when manufactured as a knitted or woven fabric.

1 is a manufacturing process diagram of a high-sensitivity linen-like stretchable composite yarn according to the present invention.

Hereinafter, a preferred embodiment of the present invention will be described in detail with reference to the accompanying drawings. First of all, it should be noted that in the drawings, the same components or parts denote the same reference numerals as possible. In describing the present invention, detailed descriptions of related known functions or configurations are omitted so as not to obscure the subject matter of the present invention.

The terms'about','substantially', etc. of the degree used in the specification of the present invention are used at or close to the numerical value when manufacturing and material tolerances specific to the stated meaning are presented. For the sake of understanding, accurate or absolute numerical values are used to prevent the infringement of the stated disclosure.

1 is a manufacturing process diagram of a high-sensitivity linen-like stretchable composite yarn according to the present invention.

The high-sensitivity linen-like elastic composite yarn according to the present invention is a polyester (FD) having a fineness of 80 to 85 De' manufactured at a spinning speed of 2000 to 2900 m/min with a 90 to 110 De' polyester latent crimped yarn with a screening furnace and an effect yarn. ) Partially oriented yarn (MOY) is used as a yarn, and a polyester (FD) partial oriented yarn manufacturing step (S10), a polyester poised yarn (TTD) forming step (S20), an elastic composite yarn ply-twisted yarn step (S30) and It is manufactured through the winding step (S40).

80 to 85 De' of the polyester (FD) partial oriented yarn production step (S10) according to the present invention is a step of producing a polyester partial oriented yarn at a spinning speed of 2000 to 2900 m/min.

Polyester yarns for clothing have generally been classified on the basis of spinning speed, and spinning speeds of 3000 to 4000 m/min are called partial oriented yarns (POY). The partially oriented yarn (MOY) used in the present invention is spun at a level of 2000 to 2900 m/min, which is lower than that of the general partial oriented yarn, and a fineness of 80 to 85 De' is used. When the spinning speed exceeds 2900m/min, the strength increases and the elongation decreases to 140% or less, so that the physical properties required for TDD can be achieved through the control of the stretching conditions. As a result, the change in physical properties was reviewed and confirmed.

The polyester (FD) partial oriented yarn according to the present invention is a yarn with a lower molecular orientation than that of a general partial oriented yarn, and has a low strength and a higher elongation than a general partial oriented yarn, with a strength of 1.8 to 2.0 g/De' and an elongation of 140 To 150% range. When the polyester partial oriented yarn is stretched to produce polyester thick yarn (TTD), if the elongation of the polyester partial oriented yarn has properties of 140% or less, the ratio of the diameter of the thick and thin parts is not large enough. A linen-like look is not formed, and a dry touch is not exhibited.

Meanwhile, the polyester (FD) partial oriented yarn according to the present invention uses FD (Full Dull) type yarn to which _{TiO 2 is added at least 1.5% by weight in the spinning process.} The polyester (FD) partially oriented yarn increases the specific gravity of the yarn and further improves the shade effect of the posture yarn during dyeing.

The 80 to 85 De' polyester (FD) partially oriented yarn (MOY) prepared in this way is formed of 60 to 75 De' polyester possum yarn (TTD) through a stretching process (S20). In the present invention, by controlling the stretching ratio and stretching conditions of the polyester partial oriented yarn (MOY), the thickness of the thick part is 82%, and the thick part and the thin part are in a range of 2.3 to 3.2. ) By being manufactured with a polyester poised yarn that maximizes the difference, a linen-like stretchy composite yarn that maximizes a cool rough touch and a shade difference similar to that of a natural linen fabric on the fabric can be manufactured.

In contrast to the present invention, conventional polyester TTD has a thickness ratio of 50% or less and a sectional area ratio of 1.5 or less, so that TTD generally has a unique melange. ) Although the effect is exerted, there is a limit to forming a rough texture similar to linen and an irregular look.

The number of sections of the unstretched monofilament included in the thick part of the thick part of the TTD / total monofilament included in the cross section It means the ratio of the number of sections.

In addition, the posture cross-sectional area ratio refers to the ratio of the diameter/thin part of the thick park of polyester tessesa (TTD).

As the thickness of the thick part increases, the degree of unevenness of the thick part increases and the difference in shades of dyeing increases, so that the texture and appearance similar to linen can be formed on the fabric.

In order to achieve the physical properties of the polyester TTD, a stretching process is performed within the range of a stretching ratio of 1.10 to 1.30. If the draw ratio exceeds 1.30, the placental frequency ratio of the maternal section is rapidly reduced to 82 or less, and if the draw ratio is less than 1.1, the draw effect is insignificant and the postural cross-sectional area ratio decreases to 1.5 or less.

In the present invention, 90 to 110 De' polyester-based latent crimped yarn is used as an examination in order to ensure that the knitted fabric has a target elasticity and elastic recovery rate. The polyester latent crimp yarn is manufactured in the form of a side-by-side type polyester latent crimp yarn of low viscosity/high viscosity component. The greater the difference in intrinsic viscosity of the two polymers of high-viscosity polyester and low-viscosity polyester, the greater the effect of crimping due to the difference in shrinkage, so it exhibits high elasticity, but the greater the difference in viscosity, the greater the amount of defects in the weaving and knitting processes, and excessive shrinkage. As a result, there is a limit to exhibiting the softness and soft touch of natural materials.

In addition, if the difference in intrinsic viscosity between the high-viscosity polyester and the low-viscosity polyester is too small, it is difficult to have a feeling of elasticity or volume due to the difference in shrinkage between the two components in the yarn after dyeing. It is preferable that the difference in viscosity is 0.20 to 0.22.

The stretchable composite yarn ply-twisted yarn step (S30) is a step of ply-twisting the prepared 60 to 75 De' of polyester stashed yarn (TTD) and 90 to 110 De' polyester-based latent crimped yarn.

The tester 90 to 110De' polyester latent crimping yarn and the effect yarn 60 to 75 De' polyester possum yarn (TTD) are supplied to the first roller and the second roller through a supply roller, respectively, and undergo a stretching and heat treatment process. It is made of elastic composite yarn. The stretching and heat treatment conditions are in accordance with the existing general stretching process of composite yarn.

The linen-like stretchable composite yarn that has been stretched and heat treated in this way is structurally 90 to 110 De' polyester-based latent winding yarn located in the core part, and 60 to 75 De' polyester staple yarn (TTD) is located on the surface. Since TTD, which has a large posture cross-sectional area ratio, protrudes on the surface after processing, the light and shade difference is large, and it exhibits a rough and cool feeling, so that a knitted fabric having a texture similar to that of a natural material, linen, and excellent elasticity can be manufactured.

The stretchable composite yarn ply-twisted in the winding step (S40) is wound up and prepared for use in a subsequent weaving and knitting process.

Hereinafter, a method of manufacturing a knitted fabric and a fabric using the linen-like stretchable composite yarn will be described.

In the present invention, the linen-like stretchable composite yarn is manufactured into a yarn for fabric manufacturing by winding it on a bobbin through a twisting process in which twist is imparted within the range of 600-2000TM.

After dyeing the linen-like stretchable composite yarn, due to the difference in shrinkage ratio, the screening process forms a fine bend at the center, and the effect yarn protrudes on the surface while exhibiting a certain level of bending characteristics, thereby expressing the excellent touch and natural characteristics of the linen fiber.

Fabricated by applying the conventional polyester dyeing method of dyeing the twisted yarn as warp or weft for weaving or woven into a knitted fabric for 2 to 5 hours at 100-130°C in a high-temperature and high-pressure rapid dyeing machine can do.

The present invention will be described in detail through the following examples.

This embodiment is intended to be described in detail by using the most preferred embodiment of the present invention to the extent that a person having ordinary knowledge in the technical field of the present invention can easily implement the technical idea of the present invention. The scope is not limited to these examples.

<Example 1>

Partially oriented polyester (FD) yarn having a fineness of 85 De', a strength of 1.8 to 2.0 g/De', and an elongation of 140 to 150% by controlling the spinning conditions while spinning polyester (FD) chips at a spinning speed of 2500 m/min. (MOY) was prepared.

The prepared polyester (FD) partially oriented yarn was stretched at various draw ratios in a drawer to obtain the following results.

[Table 1] Comparison of cross-sectional characteristics of TTD according to the stretch ratio of polyester (FD) partially oriented yarn

As the stretching ratio of the polyester (FD) partially oriented yarn increases, the degree of orientation of the stretched fiber as a whole increases, so the ratio of the sectional area of the postnatal section decreases, and it can be seen that the placental frequency ratio of the postnatal section also decreases. The cross-sectional characteristics of polyester staple yarn (TTD) have a great influence on the touch and appearance of stretchable composite yarns, so the properties of linen-like elastic composite yarns must be exhibited only when the stave cross-section is 82% or more and the staple cross-sectional area ratio is 2.3 or more. It was confirmed through <Example 2>.

<Example 2>

The polyester (FD) prefabricated yarn prepared in Example 1 and 90 to 110 De' polyester-based latent crimped yarn were bonded using a ply-twisted yarn facility to form a stretchable composite yarn by forming an air entanglement, and winding it on a bobbin. By doing this, a linen-like stretchable composite yarn was produced.

The thus prepared yarn was twisted with 1500TM, used as warp and weft, and woven into a plain weave in a water jet loom, and then salt-processed according to the usual processing conditions to prepare a polyester fabric.

The thus prepared yarn was twisted with 1500TM and knitted with a knitting machine to prepare a linen-like stretchy knitted fabric.

<Test Example>

Using the stretchy composite yarn and fabric prepared by the manufacturing method of Example 2, the following results were obtained by measuring the strength of the yarn and comparing the physical properties, touch and appearance of the fabric.

(1) Measurement of elongation of linen-like elastic composite yarn

The fineness of the yarn was calculated by winding a 1M skein with 90M weight per rotation and converted to 9,000M. Strength, elongation, and elastic recovery rate were calculated using an automatic tensile tester (Textechno) at a speed of 50cm/min, 50cm. It was measured by applying the gripping distance of.

(2) Elasticity of fabric, recovery rate of elasticity

The elasticity of the fabric was measured 10 times by the measurement method of KSK 0352 5.2.2, and the elasticity recovery rate of the fabric was measured 10 times by the measurement method of KSK 0541.

(3) linen feel

The stretchable composite yarn manufactured according to the Example was manufactured as a fabric, and after dyeing, a sensory test by 10 experts indicates that 8 or more people have excellent refreshing sensation and rough tactile effect as " ◎ ", and 6~7 people are excellent. It was classified as "○ " when it was judged that there was an effect of refreshing feeling and rough touch, and "△ " when 5 or less people judged that there was an effect of refreshing feeling and rough touch.

(4) degree of melange effect

By preparing a flexible composite manufactured in accordance with an embodiment of a fabric if you believe that the outstanding melange effect of sensory evaluation, more than eight by ten experts after dyeing "◎", 6 ~ 7 people that there is an excellent melange effect The case of judgment was classified as "○ ", and the case of determining that less than 5 people had melange effect was classified as "△".

[Table 2]

Referring to Table 2, there was no significant difference due to the physical properties of the 90 to 110 De' polyester latent crimped yarn used to examine the elasticity and elastic recovery rate of the fabric, but the draw ratio of the polyester partial oriented yarn was low. It was slightly higher in Test 1 and Test 2, which is judged to be an effect due to the increase in the effect of contraction of the effector due to dyeing.

On the other hand, it was found that the linen feel and melange effect expressed after dyeing of the yarn were greatly influenced by the properties of the polyester partial oriented yarn of the effector yarn. In the case of Test 1, Test 2, and Test 3, where the elongation ratio of the polyester partially oriented yarn is 1.3 or less, the prenatal frequency ratio of the prenatal section is 82% or more, and the prenatal diameter ratio is 2.3 or more, so that the linen feel and melange effect are excellently evaluated. It can be seen as.

Claims (4)

FD (Full Dull) type polyester (FD) partial oriented yarn manufacturing step in which the fineness is 80 to 85 De' manufactured at a spinning speed of 2000 to 2900 m/min, and TiO _{2 is added at least 1.5% by weight;}
Polyester (TTD) forming step prepared by stretching the polyester (FD) partially oriented yarn at a draw ratio of 1.1 to 1.30;
A stretchable composite yarn ply-twisted yarn step of ply-twisting the polyester-staged yarn (TTD) and 90 to 110De' polyester-based latent crimped yarn; And
It characterized in that it comprises a winding step of winding the ply-twisted stretchy composite yarn,
The 80 to 85 De', and FD (Full Dull) type of polyester (FD) partially oriented yarn has a strength of 1.8 to 2.0 g/De' and an elongation of 140 to 150%. Manufacturing method.
delete The method of claim 1,
The polyester stanched yarn (TTD) is a method of manufacturing a high-sensitivity linen-like stretchable composite yarn, characterized in that the prenatal frequency is 82% or more and the postnatal cross-sectional area ratio is 2.3 to 3.2.
A high-sensitivity linen-like stretchy composite yarn produced by the manufacturing method of any one of claims 1 and 3.

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