KR100792013B1 - A manufacturing method for undirectional pleated textile and a undirectional pleated textile produced thereby - Google Patents

Abstract

Disclosed are a method of weaving pleated fabrics and fabrics accordingly. The weaving method of the disclosed pleated fabric and the fabric according to the above is to place one general yarn inclined adjacent to the direction of weft yarn in the opening movement in the lower layer, and another normal yarn inclined in the upper layer and then invert the elastic yarn weft Crossing the weft yarn in which the inclination of the upper layer and the lower layer is enclosed (T1); At least two general yarns including the inclination located in the upper layer during the opening movement in the upper layer and then invert the elastic yarn weft two or more inclination Positioning the upper part of the weft yarn (T2); When the opening movement of the two or more general yarns inclined to the upper layer located in the upper layer and the other general yarns inclined in the lower layer and then in the elastic yarn weft in the weft The holding force is generated at the occlusal points of the T1 and T3 stages by including a step (T3) of the upper and lower layers of the upper and lower layers to occlude the weft yarns. Wrinkles are formed by the restoring force of the live and exposed weft, so there is a high degree of freedom in the generation of wrinkle design, wrinkles are processed even in normal weaving machine, and small quantity production is possible, so that the cost reduction and the whole process can be simplified and chemical or Since it is not a wrinkle generation of the heating type has the effect that the original shape can be maintained without being wrinkled by water washing.

Elastic yarn, warp yarn, weft yarn, opening process

Description

A manufacturing method for undirectional pleated textile and a undirectional pleated textile produced hence}

1 is a perspective photo showing the inclined length direction of the fabric according to an embodiment of the present invention.

Figure 2 is a perspective view of the back side of the fabric tissue inclined longitudinal direction according to an embodiment of the present invention.

Figure 3 is a weaving longitudinal direction cross-sectional view of the fabric tissue according to an embodiment of the present invention.

Figure 4 is a rear view showing the back of the enlarged fabric tissue 40 times according to an embodiment of the present invention

Figure 5 is a rear view showing the back side of the enlarged fabric structure 100 times according to an embodiment of the present invention

Figure 6 is a surface photograph showing the wrinkles enlarged by 40 times the fabric texture according to an embodiment of the present invention

Figure 7 is a surface photograph showing a wrinkled portion enlarged 100 times the fabric texture according to an embodiment of the present invention

<Description of the symbols for the main parts of the drawings>

10 .... weft

20 .. 1st slope 21 .... 2nd slope

22 .... Fourth Slope 23 .... Fourth Slope

24 .... 5th slope P0 .... 1st occlusal point P2 .... 2nd occlusal point

The present invention relates to a method of weaving a pleated fabric and a fabric according thereto, and more particularly, by placing two or more general yarns inclined to the upper layer at the same time during the opening movement, and interposing two or more warp yarns and one weft yarn by indenting elastic yarns. It relates to a method of weaving a unidirectional pleated fabric, characterized in that the invention and a pleated fabric produced thereby.

In general, wrinkled woven paper is a form in which the wrinkles are continuously formed at regular intervals in one direction on the fabric paper, and there are narrow and wide wrinkles according to the gaps of the wrinkles. Such pleated fabric paper can express a sophisticated and new personality compared to woven paper that simply prints patterns or colors, and has been utilized as women's pleated skirts or pleated scarves.

However, since the wrinkled fabrics used in the past are always formed in a certain pattern, it is difficult to make use of various personalities of consumers, thereby satisfying the desires of modern people who want to express their own personalities and create uniqueness through fashion. There is a problem that can not be.

In addition, since only a simple gap adjustment between narrow and wide wrinkles was possible, only the pattern or pattern formed before the formation of the wrinkles in the processing process could not be protruded or inverted in three folds. The durability is poor, and the shape of the wrinkles after washing is not the same as the first has been inconvenient to be carefully handled by the difference, there is also a problem that the wrinkles are unfolded by washing, etc. for a long time to wear the wrinkled clothing.

In addition, conventionally, in order to form wrinkles on the fabric, it is possible to use the dobby weaving, jacquard weaving, etc. to repeat the wrinkles regularly or crease the common fabric. If the pattern is simple and weaving characteristics, there is a limit to the amount that can be produced, there was a problem that only a small amount of production.

The general weaving method of the fabric related to the present invention is a dyeing process of dyeing the yarn for each color by changing the yarn to a state capable of dyeing the yarn through the soft winder process after preparing the warp yarn; After the dehydration process and the dry (DRY) process and the rewinder step of arranging each yarn dyed again according to the design table; A non-imming process as a step for the sizing process after inserting an alignment in a scene krill and going through the scene process; A sizing process of feeding grass to the inclined chamber so that the warp is woven without problems before weaving (a call process); Weaving non-imming step of winding the beam so that weaving in the loom; A telescopic process of arranging the warp so as to be weaved according to the design before weaving begins; Weaving process; Alveolar process to make the woven fabric can be processed; A small process for removing fine hairs or the like generated by weaving friction or the like on a fabric; Refining process of removing the glue on the thread after weaving; Washing process to clean the fabric; A shrinking process of reducing the fabric by putting the fabric into the RAPID through a setting process of fixing the width of the fabric in the TENTER machine at a high temperature; Scacha process of spreading crumpled fabric in the process of boiling; A drying process of drying the fabric; TENTER process to finally determine the width of the fabric; It can be said to include the SANFORIZING (spinning) process to fix the shrinkage of the spandex and the following methods exist to form wrinkles in the fabric through this process.

Republic of Korea Utility Publication No. 20-0001498 tapered roller (2) (2 ') in the case that the roller (2) (2') formed with a number of mountain-shaped protrusions (1) (1 ') are interlocked with each other to rotate And a plurality of grooves (3) (3 ') lower than the valleys of the protrusions (1) (1') in any place, and the tanganese supported by the springs (4) (4 ') in the grooves (3) (3') 5) (5 ') has been disclosed a device for crimping the fabric to be inserted, the Republic of Korea Patent Publication No. 10-0095065 discloses a composition for processing wrinkles of vegetable fibers and spraying it on the fabric and drying (first step), the fabric Wrinkle processing method of vegetable fiber comprising a step (second step), the first heat treatment and cooling (third step), and the second heat treatment and cooling (fourth step) This is disclosed, but when the fabric is woven into the wrinkles by the mechanical and physical force after weaving or using chemical treatment using chemicals and heat, cooling In the case of wrinkle treatment as a physical treatment, there is a problem that long-term clothing is used, and such wrinkles can be returned to the original state of the fabric by frequent washing.

In addition, the Republic of Korea Registered Room No. 20-0319662, in the double fabric with the surface and the back is separated, weaving the surface fabric woven with the non-span weft and the back fabric woven with the span weft in one weaving process at the same time, the surface fabric and There is disclosed a composite fabric having a pleat, characterized in that weave the surface fabric and the back fabric in a plain weave so as not to slip or push to one side of the back fabric to have a pleat, but this is connected to the two fabrics using a wick It is designed to have wrinkles in the fabric, and the overall production cost can be increased by the process of connecting two pieces of fabric, and sewing is not easy during garment production, and the clothes are warped due to the difference in shrinkage between the front and back sheets during laundry management. There is a problem that it is easy to occur and the pattern that can be implemented is simple.

In view of the above problems, the present invention has a high degree of freedom in the creation of the pleat design of the fabric and can simplify the whole process by performing the pleating process during the weaving process, and does not spread the wrinkles even when washing the pleated fabric into a garment. It is an object of the present invention to provide a method of weaving a pleated fabric which can be maintained in its original form and a fabric according thereto.

In order to achieve the above object, weaving of a fabric repeatedly comprising an opening movement for dividing the inclined running according to the length of the fabric into two layers above and below and an indentation movement for inserting the weft yarn into the width of the fabric into the opening. In the method, the step of weaving the warp yarn made of a common yarn and the weft yarn made of elastic yarn tangled with each other (T1 step); After the step T1, weaving two or more successive warp yarns on the top or bottom of the weft yarn (step T2); After the step T2, including the step of weaving by weaving the warp yarn made of a general yarn and elastic yarn (T3 step), the intersection point of the weft warp of step T1 and T3 step and T2 step is formed opposite to each other, T1 And a gripping force generated at the occlusal point of step T3, and the wrinkles are formed by the restoring force of the weft exposed at the upper or lower part of the warp in the step T2 repeated one or more times.
In another aspect, the present invention provides a method of weaving one-way pleated fabric in which the T2 step is woven by placing the weft yarn after placing 6 to 20 consecutive inclinations on the top or bottom of the weft yarn.

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It also provides a pleated fabric produced by the above method.

Hereinafter, exemplary embodiments of the present invention will be described in detail with reference to the accompanying drawings. First of all, it should be noted that in the drawings, the same components or parts denote the same reference numerals as much as possible. In describing the present invention, detailed descriptions of related well-known functions or configurations are omitted in order not to obscure the subject matter of the present invention.

1 is a perspective view of the fabric showing the inclined length direction of the fabric according to an embodiment of the present invention and Figure 2 is a perspective view based on the fabric tissue inclined length direction surface in accordance with a preferred embodiment of the present invention.

It is preferable that the elastic yarn used in the present invention uses spandex (polyurethane) fibers, and the spandex fibers may be processed by a coated yarn or a core-spun yarn or a bare yarn. have.

In addition, general yarns are not limited in kind or thickness, such as natural fibers, artificial fibers, recycled fibers and synthetic fibers, and can be said to be generally low in shrinkage, which may be a material of general fabrics.

Point AA 'direction is a longitudinal direction of the slope will be described as a section S1 to S12 as an embodiment. The following specific examples further illustrate the configuration and effects of the present invention in detail, but these examples are only intended to more clearly understand the present invention and are not intended to limit the scope of the present invention.

The general weaving process is to include the repetition of the opening movement to make the opening by dividing the inclination running along the fabric length into two layers of upper and lower and the indentation movement of inserting the weft yarn 10 in the width direction of the fabric into the opening. The fabric is woven by the intersection of the warp and the weft (10). In addition, the application of the present invention can be applied to not only plain weave, twill, runners.

In an embodiment of the present invention, the section S12 in the section S1 is shown as the intersection of the first slope 20 to the fifth slope 24 and the weft 10. In the following opening movement, the step of placing one warp yarn in the lower layer and the other warp yarn inclination in the upper layer and the step of crossing the weft yarn in which the warp yarns in the upper layer and the lower layer intersect the elastic yarn weft are called T1. ,

In the opening movement, the step of placing two or more general yarn inclination including the inclination located in the upper layer in the upper layer, and then inleting the weft of the elastic yarn and placing the inclination in the upper part of the weft in which two or more inclinations are enclosed is called T2.

During the opening movement, the inclination of two or more general yarns positioned in the upper layer is placed in the upper layer, and the other inclined yarn is placed in the lower layer, and the weft of the elastic yarn is interposed to cross the weft yarns in which the inclinations of the upper and lower layers are enclosed. If the step is called T3,

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In the S8 section, the first inclination 20, the second inclination 21, the third inclination 22, the fourth inclination 23, and the fifth inclination 24 are simultaneously positioned in the upper layer and the weft 10 is inserted. The weft yarn 10, which is an elastic yarn, is suspended in the air on the back surface of the fabric without intersecting the warp yarn 10 with the warp yarns, so that the first yarn 20, the second yarn 21, and the third yarn 22 are inclined. In addition, as the frictional force with the fourth inclination 23 and the fifth inclination 24 is reduced and can be stretched by itself, it can be seen that it consists of the T2 stage.

In the S9 section, the first inclination 20 is located on the lower floor, and the second inclination 21 is located on the upper floor, and the weft yarn is engraved, and the inclination and the inclined weft yarn of the upper and lower layers are interlocked. And the third inclination 22 and the fourth inclination 23 are located in the upper layer at the same time, and the weft yarn 10, which is an elastic yarn, is entrained so that the weft yarn is exposed to the air, and the fifth inclination 24 is located in the lower layer. And the second slope 21, the third slope 22, and the fourth slope 23 are composed of T3 stages located in the upper layer, so that gripping force is generated at the occlusal points of the T1 stage and T3 stage and the restoring force of the exposed weft yarn is exposed. By the wrinkles can be formed in the surface direction.

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As such, when the uncrossed section of the weft yarn 10 and the warp yarn, such as the S8 section or the S9 section, loses more T2 than the cross section, the fabric has a resilient force of the weft yarn 10, which is an elastic yarn, as a whole. Because of the greater frictional force of the weft yarns, the more than two warp yarns are located in the upper layer during the opening movement. As a result, an inclination rises to the surface and wrinkles are formed.

However, as shown in the S8 and S9 sections, wrinkles may appear on the surface when two or more inclinations are simultaneously located on the upper floor and one inclination is located on the lower floor. In the case where the opening movement is performed in which the inclination is located at the lower layer and one inclination is in the upper layer, wrinkles may occur on the back surface.

Figure 3 is a cross-sectional view of the weaving tissue weft 10 in the longitudinal direction according to an embodiment of the present invention once again describes the principle that the wrinkles when the opening movement of two or more inclination at the same time.

In the weft yarns of the S8 section, the weft yarns are suspended from the back surface of the fabric without intersecting with the inclination, and thus, the restoring force is generally generated in the elastic sizer. By this restoring force, the first inclination 20, the second inclination 21, the third inclination 22, the fourth inclination 23 and the fifth inclination 24 may be denser and the third inclination 22 ) Can rise in the horizontal plane and wrinkles may be formed in the surface portion. S9 section of the weft (10S9) shows an embodiment of the present invention, the first inclination of the first inclined yarn 20 inclined to the lower layer and the second inclination 21 of the other general yarn is located in the upper layer After the occlusal weft yarn (10S9) and the occlusal inclination of the two or more general yarns, including the second inclination 21 located in the upper layer, that is, the second inclination 21 and the third inclination (22) and fourth By placing the warp yarn 23 on the upper layer and enclosing the weft yarn 10S9 which is an elastic yarn, the second warp yarn 21, the third warp yarn 22 and the fourth warp yarn 23 are placed on top of the weft yarn yarn 10S9. One occlusion point P0 may be formed. In addition, the second slope 21, the third slope 22, and the fourth slope 23, which are the general yarns located in the upper layer, are located in the upper layer, and the fifth slope 24, which is the other general yarn, is located in the lower layer and enclosed. The first occlusal point P2 may be formed by interlocking with the weft yarn 10S9 that is an elastic yarn. In this case, the number of inclinations of the general sine located in the upper layer located between the first occlusal point P0 and the second occlusal point P2 may be 6 to 20, which is less than 6, in which the generation of wrinkles visually occurs. It may occur less than 20 and the slope may become coarse after the fabric is finished and may be sluggish. As such, the weft yarn is suspended on the back side of the fabric without being intersected between the second inclination 21 and the third inclination 22 and between the third inclination 22 and the fourth inclination 23 so that the restoring force is generally generated in the elastic interlock. . However, since the frictional force is generated between the first inclination 20, the second inclination 21, and the fourth inclination 23 and the fifth inclination 24 rather than the S8 section, the restoring force may be weakened. ), The surface portion rises in the horizontal plane with respect to) and thus wrinkles may be weaker than in the S8 section. On the other hand, in the weft yarns 10S10 and 10S11 of the sections S10 and S11, the two warp yarns are normally woven by the opening movement of the weft and the weft movement of the weft.

As shown in the P1 section, even when the weft of the S10 section and the S11 section exist in the normal weaving method, there is an uncrossed section of the weft and the slope, such as the S8 section or the S9 section, or more slopes in the same section. In the case where the weft is located in the upper layer and the weft is suspended in the air, the fabric's restoring force is larger than the weft and warp friction force, so the shrinkage occurs due to the restoring force in the longitudinal direction of the weft yarn. The inclined surface becomes dense so that the inclined surface rises and wrinkles are formed.

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Figure 4 is a back view showing the back portion enlarged by 40 times the fabric texture according to a preferred embodiment of the present invention Figure 5 is a back view showing a back portion enlarged by 100 times the fabric texture according to an embodiment of the present invention .

Since the back part is inclined to protrude toward the surface, it looks as if the weft is protruding from the back side, and the occlusal between the warp and weft is reduced, so that the friction force is reduced and the restoring force of the elastic weft, which is the elastic yarn, makes the weft appear more on the back side of the fabric. Can be.

Figure 6 is a surface photograph showing a wrinkled portion enlarged by 40 times the fabric texture according to an embodiment of the present invention Figure 7 is a surface photograph showing a wrinkled portion enlarged by 100 times the fabric texture according to an embodiment of the present invention .

If the weft yarn is formed in a structure that hangs on the back side of the fabric, it may protrude and wrinkle on the surface of the fabric.

Table 1 below shows the results of one wash shrinkage (machine washing 40 ° C., laundry line drying) and the test report of the Korea Textile Technology Institute (KOTTI REPORT NO.

For sample name CS-D606 (same as the sample shown in FIG. 1), the suggested mixing rates are 67% cotton, 28% hylon, 5% spandex.

It was tested by KS standard KS K ISO 5077 (2002) / 6330 (2001) for one time shrinkage rate (machine washing 40 ℃, laundry line drying) and showed -2.0% shrinkage in the inclined direction and-in the weft direction. It shows the shrinkage rate after washing 2.5%. It is within KS standard and the shrinkage rate is excellent because the general standard is within the allowable range of ± 3%.

In addition, after washing once, it was tested by KS standard KS K ISO 5077 (2002) / 6330 (2001) for the appearance. After washing, the color changed slightly, self dyeing was negligible, and the surface was slightly wrinkled. It is improved after covering and warm ironing, so the overall appearance seems to be satisfactory.

Test Items Test result Test Methods Carbon Arc Fade Ometer Class 4 KS K 0700-1990 Color fastness (A-1, 40 degrees Celsius) (discoloration) (body pollution) (contamination) cotton nylon Grade 4 4-5 4-5 4-5 KS K 0430-2001 Color fastness to rubbing (gun) (wet) Grade 4-5 4 KS K 0650-2001 Color fastness to sweat (acid) (discoloration) (body otitis) (contamination) cotton nylon Grade 4 4 4-5 4-5 KS K 0715-2002 Color fastness to sweat (alkali) (discoloration) (self-inflammation) (pollution) cotton nylon Grade 4-5 4-5 3-4 4-5 KS K 0715-2002 Color fastness (discoloration) (self-immune) (pollution) cotton nylon Grade 4-5 4-5 4 3-4 KS K 0645-2002 Dry cleaning fastness (fading) solution Grade 4 4-5 4-5 KS K 0645-2002 Practical bleaching fastness (non-chlorine)  Unsafe KS K 0644-2002 1 time of washing shrinkage (machine washing 40 ℃, washing line drying) % -2.0 -2.5 KS Standard KS K ISO 5077 (2002) / 6330 (2001) Appearance after washing once After washing, the color changed slightly, self dyeing was negligible, and wrinkles appeared slightly on the surface, but the overall appearance was satisfactory as it was improved after covering with cloth and warm ironing.   KS Standard KS K ISO 5077 (2002) / 6330 (2001)

As such, the present invention is capable of processing wrinkles during weaving, and thus, wrinkles are generated according to a combination of opening movements and uptake movements.

In addition, the present invention is because the wrinkles are processed through the weaving process in the general weaving machine can be produced in small quantities, and the wrinkle process is unnecessarily reduced in the entire fabric manufacturing process has the effect that the cost reduction and the entire process can be simplified.

In addition, even when the garment is made of the present invention wrinkled fabric is not chemical or heating wrinkles there is an effect that the original shape can be maintained without being wrinkled by water washing.

The present invention described above is not limited to the above-described embodiment and the accompanying drawings, and various substitutions, modifications, and changes are possible within the scope without departing from the technical spirit of the present invention. It will be evident to those who have knowledge of.

Claims (3)

In the weaving method of the fabric comprising a repetition of the opening movement to create an opening by dividing the inclination running along the fabric length into two layers of upper and lower and the indentation movement of inserting the weft yarn into the width of the fabric into the opening, Step of weaving the warp yarn made of a common yarn and the weft yarn made of elastic yarn intertwined with each other (T1 step); After the step T1, weaving two or more successive warp yarns on the top or bottom of the weft yarn (step T2); After the step T2, comprising a weaving yarn made of a warp yarn and an elastic yarn tangled with each other (T3 step), The occlusal points of the inclination of the T1, T3 and T2 stages are formed opposite to each other, so that the gripping force is generated at the occlusal points of the T1 and T3 stages and the restoring force of the weft yarn exposed to the upper or lower portion of the inclined stage in the T2 stage repeated one or more times. Weaving method of unidirectional pleated fabric, characterized in that the wrinkles are formed by. The method of claim 1, The step T2 is a method of weaving one-way pleated fabrics, characterized in that weave 6 to 20 consecutive inclined to the upper or lower portion of the weft and then weaving the weft. A pleated fabric made by the method of claim 1.

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