JPS636156A - Production of wild cocoon like polyester fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

(57) [Summary] This bulletin contains application data before electronic filing, so abstract data is not recorded.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION (Field of Industrial Application) The present invention relates to a method for producing a polyester fabric with a wild silkworm appearance.

(Prior art) Various attempts have been made to give silk-like luster and texture to synthetic fiber fabrics by modifying the cross-sectional shape of synthetic fibers to remove the luster and sliminess characteristic of synthetic fibers. It has been done. For example, yarns with irregular cross-sections having triangular cross-sections or star-shaped protrusions have been put to practical use as they provide luster and a slimy feel that cannot be obtained with conventional synthetic fibers. However, these are made from domestic silk yarns, and especially those made from different shrinkage blend yarns have a rich luster, good drapability, and a mellow, puffy texture, making them popular as fashion materials from autumn to winter. Although it is preferable as a material, it feels hot and stifling as a material for spring and summer.

Recently, as a material for the spring and summer months, there has been a demand for materials made from wild silk threads, which give fabrics a gentle, dry feel, a sense of fullness, and a squeak and lightness. A boomerang cross-section latent crimp bulky yarn with micro groups on two surfaces has been developed as a polyester yarn between wild silk threads (Trigger J8
4-2. (Page 80), this attempts to give a dry feeling by making the cross section into a boomerang shape, and give a bulging feeling by shrinking, but it is insufficient in terms of creaky feeling, lightness, and surface feel. However, it did not fully satisfy today's high quality requirements.

(Problems to be Solved by the Invention) In response to this, the present inventors attempted to obtain a wild silkworm silk-like fabric, in particular, among silk-like fabrics, from a different perspective from the above-mentioned conventional means. The idea is to obtain a bulky fabric by weaving a fabric made of polyester multifilament yarn made of two or more fiber groups with different water conduction shrinkage rates, and then performing bulking treatment to give the yarn bulkiness. is publicly known.

It has been found that various problems arise when imparting bulkiness to a fabric made of 100% polyester multifilament using a similar method.

First, is the difference in spring water contraction rate of the entire system over 3%?

Alternatively, if the spring water shrinkage rate difference between the two components is 3% or more, the fabrics woven with such yarns are usually expanded and relaxed using a continuous open soaper, so the tension in the warp direction On the other hand, it becomes flat, lacks volume and softness, does not provide a plump, dry feel, and is far from the texture of wild silk silk. On the other hand, if you use a jet dyer, wince, etc. to relax the rope without applying tension in the warp direction, the result will be 1.
On the other hand, uneven grains, small wrinkles, rope-like wrinkles, etc. occur strongly, and these defects cannot be eliminated in the subsequent finishing process, which often significantly reduces the commercial value of the textile. .

The present invention was made in view of the current situation, and an object of the present invention is to manufacture a woven fabric with a wild silk texture using polyester fibers.

(Means and operations for solving the problems) In order to achieve the above-mentioned objects, the present invention has the following configurations.

That is, in the present invention, a Wi material made of polyester multifilament yarn consisting of two or more fiber groups with different water conduction shrinkage rates of 3% or more is spread in hot water of 60° C. or higher under low tension by jet flow. The gist of this invention is a method for producing a wild silkworm-like polyester fabric, which is characterized by relaxing treatment and then heat setting with as little tension as possible.

Hereinafter, one aspect of the present invention will be explained in detail.

The fiber used in the present invention is a polyester multifilament yarn consisting of two or more fiber groups having different water conduction shrinkage rates by 3% or more. What is the polyester yarn mentioned here?
It mainly refers to fiber yarns represented by polyethylene terephthalate, which has ethylene terephthalate as a repeating unit, but if it contains 85% or more of ethylene terephthalate, isophthalic acid or sodium sulfoisophthalate is used as the third acid component. In addition, diethylene glycol and propylene glycol are alcohol components.

Alternatively, it may be a copolymerized polyester fiber yarn copolymerized with neopentyl glycol.

It is necessary that the difference in spring water shrinkage rate between two or more fiber groups is 3% or more. A particularly preferable spring water shrinkage rate difference is 5 to 10%; if it is too small, the effect of swelling the yarn due to differential shrinkage will hardly be seen, and if it is too large, convergence between filaments will decrease, which may cause trouble in the processing process. This is not desirable as it may cause

In addition, methods for imparting shrinkage differences between multifilaments include methods of creating structural differences in the polymer itself, methods of changing the spinning speed, polymer concentration, etc. during the spinning stage, and methods of changing drawing conditions. Of these methods, changing the stretching conditions is relatively easy. The above-mentioned fiber threads may be used for warp and weft without twisting, or may be used for weaving without twisting.
Should a twist of 300 T/M or less be added to improve weavability?

Alternatively, the weaving may be carried out after performing an entangling process using compressed air to improve the convergence of the threads.

Next, while keeping the woven fabric in an expanded state under low tension,
Relaxation treatment is performed using a jet stream in warm water of 0°C or higher.

To explain this with a side view of the main parts of the continuous jet type low tension relaxer shown in FIG. 1, first, while the net conveyor 5 is moved by the driving rolls 1, 1', the injection nozzles 6. 6' gives a jet flow alternately up and down, and the ¥Jt object 7 is transferred from the insertion roll 2 to the conveyor 5'.
The patient is placed on the machine and subjected to a relaxing treatment in a hot bath 4 at 60° C. or higher while controlling the speed with a pull-out roll 3.

At this time, a kneading effect is imparted to the fabric by jets ejected from nozzles alternately arranged close to the fabric.
A good crimp develops, giving rise to fullness and a dry feel. The bath temperature of bath 4 should be 60°C or higher, but especially 75~9°C.
Most preferred is 5°C.

At a low temperature of 60° C. or lower, the difference in shrinkage of the yarn itself is not sufficiently expressed, and even if a kneading effect is provided by jet flow, a good texture cannot be obtained. Also, regarding processing time.

Although it varies depending on the fabric structure, at least 5 seconds or more is required; if it is less than 5 seconds, sufficient crimp will not occur.

It lacks uniformity, and conversely, if the time is increased, there will be an adverse effect on the quality of the two. Regarding the tension during the relaxation treatment, it is better to make it as low as possible without causing wrinkles (2) If it is made too strong, the appearance of crimp will be small and the other side will become flat, causing a sagging and dry feeling. Care must be taken as this is one of the causes of decrease in tension. Therefore, the tension should be set at 0.2 to 5 g/
Denier is preferred.

Next, perform heat setting without applying tension as much as possible.
Fix the other side. The set temperature is 150 to 200°C, and the processing time is about 10 to 60 seconds. 170-180
It is even more preferable to heat set at a temperature of 15 to 30 seconds. Also.

It is better that the tension of the warp is loose, and it is best to overfeed the heat center at about 0 to +10%.

If alkali weight loss is required, two normal weight loss steps are performed, followed by the usual dyeing and finishing of polyester fabrics. Even in the processing step after heat setting, it is important to finish with as low tension as possible, which will result in even better quality.

(Example) The present invention will be explained in more detail with reference to the following two examples. The evaluation of the fabrics in the examples is based on the fabric habutae using wild silk thread, and the similarity with this standard is evaluated by handling and the naked eye. It was evaluated using the following ranking.

◎: Very good ○: Good Δ: Slightly poor ×: Poor Example 1 Contains 0.2% titanium oxide and has an intrinsic viscosity [η] of 1.3
When melt-spinning polyethylene terephthalate No. 8, the discharge rate was adjusted at a spinning temperature of 290° C. so that the fineness after stretching was 75 denier.

Undrawn yarn was collected at a spinning speed of 1400 m/lll1n. A 36-hole spinning nozzle with a triangular cross section was used to individually wind up 18 filaments.

Subsequently, when drawing is performed using a drawing device, the high shrinkage yarn is drawn at a drawing ratio of 2.65° and a real roll temperature of 85°.
℃, heater plate temperature 160℃ under non-contact conditions,
At the same time, the low shrinkage yarn was drawn at the same draw ratio, the same real roll temperature, and in contact with a heater plate at 160°C, and at a speed of 700 m/win.
''?: After winding, a yarn of 75 denier/36 filaments was obtained.The boiling water shrinkage rate of this high shrinkage yarn was 15.2%, and the boiling water shrinkage rate of the low shrinkage yarn was 5.6% (shrinkage Rate difference9.
2%).

The obtained yarn is used for the warp and weft to weave habutae, and
Using a continuous jet type low tension relaxer shown in FIG. 1, relaxation treatment was performed at a bath temperature of 90° C., a relaxation tension of 0.2 g/denier or less, and a jet flow. After that, use a 3-chain bar heat setter manufactured by Jukin Industries ■ to +
After dry heat setting at 170°C for 30 seconds with 10% overfeed and a width of -3cm in the weft direction, followed by 18% alkali weight loss treatment, a disperse dye Foron Yellow Brown manufactured by Sandoz was applied. S-C
T L 0.02% o, w, f, 1 Hisaka Seisakusho ■
Dyeing was carried out at 130° C. for 30 minutes using a circular dyeing machine made by M. Co., Ltd. After drying, finishing setting was carried out under dry heat conditions at 170”C for 20 seconds to obtain a plain dyed product.

Regarding this fabric (habutae), it has a dry feeling and a puffy feeling 1
The results of the evaluation of surface roughness (uniform fine unevenness) are shown in Table 1.

For comparison with the method of the present invention, a fabric (Habutae) of Comparative Example 1 was manufactured by the same method as in this Example except that the jet stream during the relaxation treatment was omitted, and separately, A woven fabric (habutae) of Comparative Example 2 was produced in the same manner as in this example, except that the bath temperature during the relaxing treatment was changed to 50°C. In addition, in addition to this, Comparative Example 3 was prepared using the same method as in this Example except that the tension during relaxation was set to 7 to 10 g/denier in this Example.
fabrics (habutae) were manufactured. Furthermore, for comparison with the method of the present invention, two undrawn yarns of 18 filaments/strand were drawn in Example 9.

Using the same stretching device, the stretching ratio was 2.65. Winding at a speed of 700 m/lll1n at a hot roll temperature of 85°C and a heater plate temperature of 160°C, fineness of 75 denier/
36 filament yarn (water conduction shrinkage rate of high shrinkage yarn is 7
．． 6%, and the water conduction shrinkage rate of the low shrinkage yarn is 5.3%, so the shrinkage rate difference is 2.3%).

A woven fabric (habutae) of Comparative Example 4 was produced in exactly the same manner as in this example except that this yarn was used for the warp and weft of the woven fabric.

The fabrics of Comparative Examples 1 to 4 were evaluated for dry feel and surface feel, and the results are shown in Table 1.

Table 1 As is clear from Table 1, the woven habutae made by the method of the present invention had performance very similar to that of habutae made using natural wild silk thread.

(Effects of the Invention) The present invention provides a polyester multi-fiber 7/ant fabric consisting of two or more fiber groups with different water conduction shrinkage rates of 3% or more.
By relaxing the spread cloth under low tension while giving a kneading effect by the action of jets in hot water, uniform small grain-like unevenness is developed on the other side, and after fixing the small grain in the middle with heat setting, A normal dyeing finish is performed to form a finer uneven surface. According to the method of the present invention, a unique surface is obtained, and the bulking effect is combined to create a rounded and good dry feeling. The resulting fabric becomes a silk-like fabric that is extremely similar to a wild silkworm box.

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

FIG. 1 is a schematic side view of the main parts of a continuous jet type low tension relaxer used in the method of the present invention. 5.5' is a net conveyor, 6.6' is a spray nozzle, 4 is a hot bath, and 7 is a fabric. be. Patent Applicant Uni-Tei Riki Co., Ltd. Procedural Supervisor (Spontaneous) August 15, 1986

Claims (1)

[Claims] (1) A woven fabric made of polyester multifilament yarn consisting of two or more fiber groups with boiling water shrinkage rates of 3% or more is relaxed in hot water of 60°C or higher under low tension using a jet stream. A method for producing a wild silkworm-like polyester fabric, which is then heat-set with as little tension as possible.