JPS63534B2 - - Google Patents
Info
- Publication number
- JPS63534B2 JPS63534B2 JP55030258A JP3025880A JPS63534B2 JP S63534 B2 JPS63534 B2 JP S63534B2 JP 55030258 A JP55030258 A JP 55030258A JP 3025880 A JP3025880 A JP 3025880A JP S63534 B2 JPS63534 B2 JP S63534B2
- Authority
- JP
- Japan
- Prior art keywords
- yarn
- false twisted
- degree
- interlacing
- entanglement
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Expired
Links
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 claims description 29
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 claims description 13
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 claims description 9
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims description 6
- 230000001747 exhibiting effect Effects 0.000 claims description 5
- 239000012530 fluid Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000002131 composite material Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 238000002156 mixing Methods 0.000 claims description 2
- 238000007665 sagging Methods 0.000 claims description 2
- 238000007790 scraping Methods 0.000 description 14
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 description 5
- 229920000728 polyester Polymers 0.000 description 4
- 239000000470 constituent Substances 0.000 description 3
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 description 3
- 238000005452 bending Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000012360 testing method Methods 0.000 description 2
- 230000017260 vegetative to reproductive phase transition of meristem Effects 0.000 description 2
- 238000004804 winding Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000002788 crimping Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000010586 diagram Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000002932 luster Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002245 particle Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000010802 sludge Substances 0.000 description 1
Description
本発明は絹紡調加工糸並びにその製造方法に関
するものでその目的は簡便な手段にて霜降調のカ
スリ効果を呈する絹紡調加工糸を提供することに
ある。
フイラメント糸と仮撚糸を流体処理によりミツ
クス加工してシルキーな感覚の織物を得るための
方法としては特公昭54−15050号公報を始めとし
て多数提案されている。しかしながらこれらの提
案は主として風合面に強調が置かれ、特に仮撚加
工糸の構成或いは捲縮性を選択してふくらみを残
してさらりとした風合のものを得ることに終始し
ている。
本発明者らは上記の思想とは別の観点すなわち
シルキー感覚と色彩効果とを兼備した加工糸を得
んとして種々検討しているうちにフイラメント糸
と仮撚糸の混繊効果として熱履歴の差による染着
差に着目し該染着差の効果を最大限に生かすには
フイラメント成分と仮撚加工糸成分との間に適度
な構成比が存在すること更には流体処理によつて
与えられる混繊のためのからみ程度に適性なレベ
ルが存在することを知見し、本発明に到達した。
本発明によれば
(1) 捲縮加工を施していないフイラメント糸(フ
ラツトヤーン)と再熱処理仮撚加工糸との混繊
複合糸に於て、両者の間には実質的に糸長差が
なく、しかも糸表面にはループ、たるみ等の絡
み構造部分が存在せず、その交絡度(インター
レース度)がm当り20個〜80個、仮撚加工糸の
混繊比率が20%〜50%の範囲にあることを特徴
とするカスリ効果を呈する絹紡調加工糸。
(2) 捲縮加工を施していないフイラメント糸(フ
ラツトヤーン)と再熱処理仮撚加工糸とを実質
的に糸足差を与えることなく、該仮撚加工糸の
構成比率を20%〜50%に設定して圧縮流体処理
域に過剰供給率3%以内で供給して、実質的に
ループ、たるみ等の絡み構造部分を生じること
なく交絡度(インターレース度)がm当り20個
から80個の範囲になるように混繊加工すること
を特徴とするカスリ効果を呈する絹紡調加工糸
の製造法。
が提供される。
本発明において、“からみ程度の適性レベル”
とは前記染着差の効果を織編物とした後にカスリ
的効果として残しその商品価値を最も高める性質
のものであることが分つた。換言すれば所望のカ
スリ効果を得る為にこそ適度なフイラメント糸と
仮撚糸との構成比率があり、又からみ程度のレベ
ルがあると言えよう。又このカスリ効果と関連す
る混繊糸の絡みの程度は特に織物にする場合の製
織性と密接に関係し、この点が本発明に至る、選
択の重要ポイントであつた。即ちカスリ効果とい
う観点からみれば混繊糸のからみ度の適性レベル
としては低目が好ましいが逆に製織性という観点
からは高目が好ましく一概にからみ度は低目が或
いは高目が良いと言えない。一方、仮撚加工糸と
してトルクを低下せしめた所謂再熱処理仮撚加工
糸(以下、ヒートスタビライズドタイプまたはヒ
ートスタビライズド仮撚加工糸と称する)を採用
した狙いには第1に風合的にふくらみと共にさら
りとした感覚、更には光沢等のシルキー効果を利
用すると同時に前述のカスリ効果との関連で適性
なからみ程度のレベル就中シルキー風合を阻害す
るループ或いはたるみ等の屈曲張り出し部を実質
的に生ぜしめないのに好都合だからである。つま
りシングルタイプ仮撚糸では工程中或いは製品染
仕上げ時の捲縮の発現が強くどうしてもたるみ等
の屈曲張り出し部が形成され、風合的にふかつき
感を与えると共に均斉な感覚の光沢或いは表面感
覚を失つてしまう難点がある。第2にはヒートス
タビライズドタイプの方がシングルヒータータイ
プに比し濃染挙動を示すので相手素材の、捲縮加
工を施していないフイラメント糸(所謂フラツト
ヤーン)との間の染着差をより明確にできるので
本発明の狙いとするカスリ効果を得るのに適合し
ているからである。本発明を添付図面に従つて説
明する。
第1図は本発明を実施する上での基本プロセス
を示したもので、1はフイラメント糸の供給パー
ン、2はヒートスタビライズドされた仮撚加工糸
の供給パツケージ、3は両者を同時に供給するた
めの供給ローラー系、4は圧空処理ノズルで両構
成糸間の絡み構造は該ノズルに於て付与される。
5はデリベリーローラーであつて適性絡み度を得
るために適性なる過剰供給率が3と5のローラー
系によつて設定される。6は捲取り装置である。
ここで1のフイラメント糸と2のヒートスタビラ
イズド仮撚加工糸の構成比率は第1に好適なるカ
スリ効果を得るために、第2に適度なるシルキー
感覚を得るためにヒートスタビライズド仮撚加工
糸のそれを20〜50%に保つことが必要である。
第2図は過剰供給率と交絡度との関係を示した
もので本発明の期待するカスリ効果を得るために
は適正なる交絡範囲を選択することが必要であ
る。即ち第2図に於て、()の領域が本発明の
効果を与え得る領域つまり適正なるカスリ効果と
良好なる製織性を与え得る範囲である。これに対
して()の領域はカスリ効果としてはむしろ良
好な面でもあるが製織性に於いて問題があり実用
に供しえない範囲である。又()の領域では供
給加工糸の過剰供給率が高過ぎて一見絡み度が低
くみえても構成糸の単糸間のミツクスが細かくカ
スリ効果を得ることができない。一方()の領
域では基本的に交絡度が高過ぎて製織性はもちろ
ん問題ないけれどもカスリ効果という面で全く商
品価値のあるものを与えることはできない。第2
図において特徴的な事は一概に交絡度のみで一義
的にカスリ効果を推測し得ない事で加工時の過剰
供給率によつて糸条間での単繊維相互の交絡度或
いは構成糸条間の交絡度かによつて得られるカス
リ効果が異なつてくる。過剰供給率が高い場合に
は構成糸条の単繊維相互間の交絡度が上がるだけ
で見掛けの交絡度は低くてもカスリ効果を得るこ
とはできない。
第3図は本発明によつて得られる糸条の側面図
を示したもので、a部の個所にて基本的には糸条
の交絡性が与えられて糸条全体としての一体性が
得られると共に製織性を保証してくれる。一方b
部は一種の開花部であつて、もちろんある程度の
ミツクス状態は存在するも基本的にフイラメント
糸とヒートスタビライズド仮撚加工糸が平行に配
列して、本発明の言うカスリ効果を与えてくれ
る。
第4図イ,ロは夫々第3図のa部、b部の糸の
混じり状態をモデル的に示したもので、a部にて
はフイラメント糸と仮撚糸が均一に混繊されてい
る状態にあり、他方b部のそれは極端に言えばサ
イド・バイ・サイド(Side by Side)的に配列
されている事を示す。以上の如く本発明によれ
ば、特に頻雑な工程或いは特別の素材を必要とす
ることなく、カスリ効果を呈する絹紡調加工糸を
得ることができる。
<実施例 1>
第1図に示す基本プロセスに於いて、フイラメ
ント糸としてポリエステル100de/72fil三角断面
糸をヒートスタビライズド仮撚加工糸としてポリ
エステル50de/36fil三角断面糸を用いて本発明
の加工を実施した。糸速は300m/minとして第
1表に示す如き水準で実施した。(使用ノズルは
特公昭47−42068号公報に記載されたものを用い
た。)
The present invention relates to a silk spun yarn and a method for producing the same, and an object thereof is to provide a silk spun yarn that exhibits a marbling-like shaving effect by a simple means. A number of methods have been proposed, including Japanese Patent Publication No. 15050/1983, for producing fabrics with a silky feel by processing filament yarns and false twisted yarns through fluid treatment. However, these proposals mainly place emphasis on the texture, and end up choosing the composition or crimpability of the false-twisted yarn to leave some bulge and obtain a smooth texture. The inventors of the present invention have conducted various studies in an attempt to obtain a processed yarn that has both a silky feel and a color effect from a different perspective than the above idea, and found that the difference in thermal history is due to the mixed fiber effect of filament yarn and false twisted yarn. In order to maximize the effect of this difference in dyeing, it is necessary to have an appropriate composition ratio between the filament component and the false-twisted yarn component. It was discovered that there is an appropriate level of entanglement for fibers, and the present invention was achieved. According to the present invention, (1) in a mixed fiber composite yarn of uncrimped filament yarn (flat yarn) and reheat-treated false twisted yarn, there is virtually no difference in yarn length between the two; Moreover, there are no interlacing structures such as loops or slacks on the yarn surface, the degree of interlacing is 20 to 80 per meter, and the mixed fiber ratio of false twisted yarn is 20% to 50%. Silk spun processed yarn exhibiting a Kasuri effect characterized by a range of characteristics. (2) The composition ratio of the uncrimped filament yarn (flat yarn) and the reheat-treated false twisted yarn is set to 20% to 50% without giving a substantial difference in yarn length. By setting and supplying the compressed fluid to the processing area at an excess supply rate of 3% or less, the degree of interlacing is in the range of 20 to 80 particles per meter without substantially creating intertwined structures such as loops and slack. A method for producing silk-spun textured yarn exhibiting a Kasuri effect, which is characterized by blending the fibers so that the fibers become mixed. is provided. In the present invention, "an aptitude level of entanglement"
It has been found that the above-mentioned dyeing difference effect remains as a scratch-like effect after being made into a woven or knitted fabric, and has the property of maximizing the commercial value of the fabric. In other words, it can be said that in order to obtain the desired scraping effect, there is an appropriate composition ratio of filament yarn and false twisted yarn, and there is also a level of entanglement. Furthermore, the degree of entanglement of the mixed fiber yarns associated with this smudge effect is closely related to the weavability especially when fabricated, and this point was an important point in the selection that led to the present invention. In other words, from the viewpoint of the sludge effect, a low level is preferable as the appropriate level of entanglement of the mixed fiber yarn, but conversely, from the perspective of weavability, a high level is preferable, and generally speaking, a low or high level of entanglement is better. I can not say. On the other hand, the purpose of adopting so-called reheat-treated false-twisted yarn (hereinafter referred to as heat stabilized type or heat stabilized false-twisted yarn), which has reduced torque, as a false-twisted yarn is to improve the texture. While taking advantage of silky effects such as a smooth feeling and luster as well as fullness, in connection with the above-mentioned shaving effect, it is possible to maintain an appropriate level of tangles, and in particular, eliminate bending and overhanging parts such as loops or sagging that inhibit the silky texture. This is because it is convenient even though it does not cause any problems. In other words, with single type false twisted yarn, crimping occurs strongly during the process or when finishing product dyeing, and bending and overhanging parts such as sag are inevitably formed, giving a fluffy texture and a uniform gloss or surface feel. There are drawbacks to losing it. Secondly, the heat stabilized type exhibits a darker dyeing behavior than the single heater type, so it is easier to see the difference in dyeing between it and the other material, filament yarn that has not been crimped (so-called flat yarn). This is because it is suitable for obtaining the scraping effect aimed at by the present invention. The present invention will be explained with reference to the accompanying drawings. Figure 1 shows the basic process for carrying out the present invention. 1 is a supply pirn for filament yarn, 2 is a supply package for heat-stabilized false twisted yarn, and 3 is a supply package for both at the same time. 4 is a compressed air treatment nozzle, and the entwined structure between the two component yarns is provided at the nozzle.
5 is a delivery roller, and in order to obtain an appropriate degree of entanglement, an appropriate excess supply rate is set by the roller system of 3 and 5. 6 is a winding device.
Here, the composition ratio of the filament yarn (1) and the heat-stabilized false twisted yarn (2) is determined firstly in order to obtain a suitable scraping effect, and secondly, in order to obtain a suitable silky feel, the composition ratio of the filament yarn (1) and the heat-stabilized false-twisted yarn (2) is determined. It is necessary to keep it between 20 and 50%. FIG. 2 shows the relationship between the excess supply rate and the degree of entanglement, and it is necessary to select an appropriate range of entanglement in order to obtain the scraping effect expected by the present invention. That is, in FIG. 2, the area in parentheses is the area where the effects of the present invention can be provided, that is, the area where an appropriate scraping effect and good weavability can be provided. On the other hand, the range () is rather good in terms of the scraping effect, but has problems in weavability and is beyond the range of practical use. Furthermore, in the region (), the excessive supply rate of processed yarn is too high, and even though the degree of entanglement may seem low at first glance, the mix between the single yarns of the constituent yarns is so fine that it is impossible to obtain a scraping effect. On the other hand, in the range (), the degree of entanglement is basically too high, and although there is no problem with weavability, it is impossible to provide anything of commercial value in terms of scraping effect. Second
What is characteristic in the figure is that the scraping effect cannot be unambiguously estimated solely from the degree of entanglement; the degree of entanglement of single fibers between yarns or the number of constituent yarns depends on the excessive supply rate during processing. The scraping effect obtained differs depending on the degree of entanglement. If the excess supply rate is high, the degree of entanglement between the single fibers of the constituent yarns only increases, and even if the apparent degree of entanglement is low, it is not possible to obtain a scraping effect. Fig. 3 shows a side view of the yarn obtained by the present invention, where the yarn is basically given interlacing properties at the point a, and the integrity of the yarn as a whole is obtained. It also guarantees weavability. On the other hand b
The part is a kind of flowering part, and of course there is a certain degree of mixture, but basically the filament yarn and the heat stabilized false twisted yarn are arranged in parallel, giving the scraping effect referred to in the present invention. Figures 4A and 4B are model illustrations of the mixed state of yarns in parts a and b of Figure 3, respectively. In part a, filament yarn and false twisted yarn are uniformly mixed. On the other hand, the one in section b shows that, to put it in an extreme, they are arranged in a side-by-side manner. As described above, according to the present invention, it is possible to obtain a silk spun processed yarn exhibiting a scraping effect without requiring particularly frequent steps or special materials. <Example 1> In the basic process shown in FIG. 1, the processing of the present invention was carried out using polyester 100de/72fil triangular cross-section yarn as the filament yarn and polyester 50de/36fil triangular cross-section yarn as the heat stabilized false twisted yarn. carried out. The yarn speed was 300 m/min and the testing was carried out at the level shown in Table 1. (The nozzle used was the one described in Japanese Patent Publication No. 47-42068.)
【表】
<実施例 2>
フイラメント糸としてポリエステル50de/
36fil三角断面糸をヒートスタビライズド仮撚加
工糸としてポリエステル50de/36fil三角断面糸
を用いて本発明の加工を実施した。糸速は
300m/minとして第2表に示す如き水準で実施
した。[Table] <Example 2> Polyester 50de/as filament yarn
The processing of the present invention was carried out using a polyester 50de/36fil triangular cross-section yarn as a heat stabilized false twisted 36fil triangular cross-section yarn. Yarn speed is
The test was carried out at a speed of 300 m/min as shown in Table 2.
【表】【table】
第1図は本発明の基本プロセスを示す略線図、
第2図は本発明のポイントとなるカスリ効果と製
織性を満足する領域を過剰供給率と交絡度との関
係で示すグラフ、第3図は本発明によつて得られ
る糸条の側面図、第4図イ,ロは第3図に於ける
交絡部と開花部に於ける糸条の混繊状態を示す断
面図である。
1……使用フイラメント糸供給パーン、2……
ヒートスタビライズド仮撚糸供給パツケージ、3
……供給ローラー系、4……圧空処理ノズル、5
……デリベリーローラー、6……捲取り装置、a
……交絡部、b……開花部。
FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram showing the basic process of the present invention,
FIG. 2 is a graph showing the area satisfying the scraping effect and weavability, which are the key points of the present invention, in relation to the excess supply rate and the degree of entanglement; FIG. 3 is a side view of the yarn obtained by the present invention; FIGS. 4A and 4B are cross-sectional views showing the interwoven state of the yarns in the intertwined part and flowering part in FIG. 3. 1...Filament yarn supply pirn used, 2...
Heat stabilized false twist yarn supply package, 3
... Supply roller system, 4 ... Compressed air treatment nozzle, 5
... Delivery roller, 6 ... Winding device, a
...Confounding part, b...Blooming part.
Claims (1)
ラツトヤーン)と再熱処理仮撚加工糸との混繊複
合糸に於て、両者の間には実質的に糸長差がな
く、しかも糸表面にはループ、たるみ等の絡み構
造部分が存在せず、その交絡度(インターレース
度)がm当り20個〜80個、仮撚加工糸の混繊比率
が20%〜50%の範囲にあることを特徴とするカス
リ効果を呈する絹紡調加工糸。 2 捲縮加工を施していないフイラメント糸(フ
ラツトヤーン)と再熱処理仮撚加工糸とを実質的
に糸足差を与えることなく、該仮撚加工糸の構成
比率を20%〜50%に設定して圧縮流体処理域に過
剰供給率3%以内で供給して、実質的にループ、
たるみ等の絡み構造部分を生じることなく交絡度
(インターレース度)がm当り20個から80個の範
囲になるように混繊加工することを特徴とするカ
スリ効果を呈する絹紡調加工糸の製造方法。[Claims] 1. In a mixed fiber composite yarn of uncrimped filament yarn (flat yarn) and reheat-treated false twisted yarn, there is substantially no difference in yarn length between the two, In addition, there are no interlacing structures such as loops or slacks on the yarn surface, and the degree of interlacing is 20 to 80 per meter, and the mixed fiber ratio of false twisted yarn is in the range of 20% to 50%. Silk spun processed yarn exhibiting a Kasuri effect characterized by the following. 2. Set the composition ratio of the uncrimped filament yarn (flat yarn) and the reheat-treated false twisted yarn to 20% to 50% without giving a substantial difference in yarn length. to the compressed fluid processing zone at an excess supply rate of 3% or less, substantially looping,
Manufacture of silk spun processed yarn exhibiting a shaving effect characterized by blending the fibers so that the degree of interlacing is in the range of 20 to 80 pieces per meter without producing entangled structural parts such as sagging. Method.
Priority Applications (1)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
JP3025880A JPS56128323A (en) | 1980-03-12 | 1980-03-12 | Spun silk like processed yarn having "kasuri" effect and method |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
JP3025880A JPS56128323A (en) | 1980-03-12 | 1980-03-12 | Spun silk like processed yarn having "kasuri" effect and method |
Publications (2)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
---|---|
JPS56128323A JPS56128323A (en) | 1981-10-07 |
JPS63534B2 true JPS63534B2 (en) | 1988-01-07 |
Family
ID=12298673
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
JP3025880A Granted JPS56128323A (en) | 1980-03-12 | 1980-03-12 | Spun silk like processed yarn having "kasuri" effect and method |
Country Status (1)
Country | Link |
---|---|
JP (1) | JPS56128323A (en) |
Citations (4)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
JPS5285542A (en) * | 1976-01-12 | 1977-07-15 | Toray Industries | Color varying interlaced filament |
JPS5415050A (en) * | 1977-07-07 | 1979-02-03 | Teijin Ltd | Silky fabric |
JPS5464153A (en) * | 1977-10-28 | 1979-05-23 | Toray Industries | Crossed yarn and production thereof |
JPS5468426A (en) * | 1977-11-09 | 1979-06-01 | Toray Industries | Production of combined filament yarn |
-
1980
- 1980-03-12 JP JP3025880A patent/JPS56128323A/en active Granted
Patent Citations (4)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
JPS5285542A (en) * | 1976-01-12 | 1977-07-15 | Toray Industries | Color varying interlaced filament |
JPS5415050A (en) * | 1977-07-07 | 1979-02-03 | Teijin Ltd | Silky fabric |
JPS5464153A (en) * | 1977-10-28 | 1979-05-23 | Toray Industries | Crossed yarn and production thereof |
JPS5468426A (en) * | 1977-11-09 | 1979-06-01 | Toray Industries | Production of combined filament yarn |
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
JPS56128323A (en) | 1981-10-07 |
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