JPS6360140B2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed description of the invention]

The present invention relates to a special wound yarn consisting of a filament yarn in which a core yarn is covered and wound with a sheath yarn, and the direction and degree of winding vary at extremely long intervals. More specifically, an S-twist winding portion in which the sheath yarn is tightly wound around the core yarn in the S-twist direction and a Z-twist winding portion in which the sheath yarn is tightly wound in the Z-twist direction exist alternately along the longitudinal direction of the yarn. It is a yarn, and the S twist winding part and the Z
In each twisting section, the sheath yarn does not cover and wind the core yarn at a constant rate, but within each twisting section, the winding ranges from a strong degree of winding to almost no winding. When made into a woven or knitted fabric, unlike fabrics that have a conventional chambray effect, when the hue of the core yarn and sheath yarn is changed, the core yarn can be twisted even from one direction. This relates to a special wound yarn that can randomly configure the fabric surface with areas where the color of the yarn is emphasized and areas where the color of the sheath yarn is emphasized, and can give a special chambray-like effect to woven or knitted fabrics. Traditionally, textiles with a chambray effect have colored yarns in the warp and different colored yarns in the weft, so that the hue of the warp is emphasized when viewed from one direction, and when viewed from another direction. It has been recognized that it is useful as a special fabric because its hue changes depending on the direction of viewing, such as emphasizing the hue of the weft, but recently the fabric surface is monotonous, and People were tired of this monotony and wanted a fabric that had both a surface effect and a chambray effect. The object of the present invention is to provide a yarn that meets these demands, and which can vary the degree of winding of the sheath yarn around the core yarn from a strong degree of winding to a degree of almost no winding. This winding direction is 20
To provide a special wound yarn having a portion whose length is changed by cm or more, and which can give a special chambray-like effect and a new surface effect to woven or knitted fabrics. That is, the present invention provides a yarn in which a multifilament sheath yarn is wound around a multifilament core yarn in alternating winding directions, and the yarn has an S-twist winding portion and a Z-twist winding portion in the longitudinal direction of the yarn. The winding portions have random lengths, the S-twist winding portion and the Z-twist winding portion are present with a length of 20 cm or more, and the average covering winding ratio shown below is 4% or more, and the yarn The gist is a special wound yarn characterized by varying degrees of winding along the longitudinal direction of the yarn. Average coverage winding rate: 10 threads of 3 m long are collected in succession, and then each of the core thread and sheath thread is sampled at 10 cm from arbitrary 10 points per 3 m of each thread under a load of 1/10 g/d. Let the lengths of be l ₁ and l ₂ , calculate the covering winding ratio from the following formula, and calculate the average value (X ₁ ) of the covering winding ratios at these 10 locations. Covering winding ratio (%) = l ₂ − _{l 1} / l ₁ × 100 Similarly, calculate the average value of the covering winding ratio (X ₂ to X ₁₀ ) of the other nine yarns, and The average of the average values (X ₁ to X ₁₀ ) of the locations is defined as the average coverage winding rate (%). The present invention will be explained in detail below. FIG. 1 is a schematic side view showing an example of the yarn of the present invention, which is obtained by special processing described later. A sheath yarn Y' made of multifilaments is wound around a core yarn Y made of multifilaments with a twist in the S direction.An S-twist winding part S, and a core yarn Y and sheath yarn Y' have a twist in the Z direction. The Z-twist winding portions Z and the Z-twist winding portions Z are arranged alternately with a length of 20 cm or more while changing the degree of winding along the longitudinal direction of the yarn. In addition, between the S-twist winding part S and the Z-twist winding part Z, or between the Z-twist winding part Z and the S-twist winding part S, there is a twist direction changing part, and there is almost no covering winding. It can also be made into one. Conventionally, as a method of winding a sheath yarn around a core yarn, it has been known to use two or more yarns and twist the yarns on a design twisting machine with different yarn supply speeds. However, the yarn obtained by such a method has a fixed winding direction, and it has not been possible to provide the fabric with the special surface morphology by changing the twist direction as directed by the present invention. Or special public service 45-28018
As described in the publication, by false-twisting two or more yarns in the false-twisting region with a difference in supply speed, one yarn can twist the other yarn alternately in the S direction and the Z direction. However, the length of the wound portion in both the S direction and the Z direction is only on the order of several millimeters to several centimeters, and moreover, there is a remarkable coverage winding rate along the longitudinal direction. A chambray having a useful pattern in which the special chambray-like effect and the morphological effect on the fabric surface can be randomly obtained due to extremely long winding portions and variations in the covering winding ratio, which are the objects of the present invention. It is not possible to obtain similar effects. As will be described later, in the yarn of the present invention, when two or more yarns made of multifilament are supplied to the false twisting area, one yarn is over-supplied than the other yarn during twisting, and Depending on the body, the twisting is done intermittently in one direction, or the direction of twisting is S.
It is obtained by performing a specific processing operation of intermittent twisting while randomly changing the direction and Z direction. Moreover, the degree of winding varied in the longitudinal direction, and it was observed that there were places where the core yarn was emphasized and places where the sheath yarn was emphasized even from one direction, which could not be obtained conventionally. It is possible to obtain a special Chambray effect having a surface morphology like random stripes with randomly varying periods. Furthermore, in the yarn of the present invention, one winding part is a part that has undergone twisting and heat setting, and the other winding part is a part that has undergone twisting, heat setting, and untwisting and has a crimped crimp. The threads have different swirling properties, and the fabric has a three-dimensional surface morphology. Furthermore, the yarn of the present invention has good flexibility and elasticity because the part with the crimped crimp is an over-untwisted part, whereas the yarn wound with the conventional design twisted yarn is hard and the yarn is not easily caught during weaving and weaving. Trouble such as cutting can be greatly reduced. In the yarn of the present invention, the S-twist winding part and the Z-twist winding part need to be 20 cm or more, and the length of these parts is 100 cm or more. Preferably, the S-twist winding portion and the Z-twist winding portion of 20 cm or more are present at 60% or more of the yarn length.
If the length of the S-twist winding portion and the Z-twist winding portion is only less than 20 cm, the appearance pattern expressed on the surface of the fabric cannot have the novel form of striped shavings that the present invention is directed to. Furthermore, the yarn of the present invention needs to have an average covering winding ratio of 4% or more when the core thread of the sheath thread is covered, and this can be as high as 50% or more. Average coating turn rate is 4
If it is less than %, the S twist winding part and the Z twist winding part are 20cm.
Even if the length is longer than that, there will be almost no division between the core thread and the sheath thread, and a special chambray-like effect due to variation in the core-sheath covering winding rate cannot be obtained. The method for manufacturing the yarn of the present invention will be explained below. In the yarn of the present invention, in the intermittent false twisting process, an over-untwisted portion having a twist in the opposite direction to the false twisting direction is formed when the yarn is wound, and a twisted convergence portion is formed when the yarn twisting is stopped. Therefore, the length of the over-twisted part and the twisted convergence part is determined by the yarn speed leaving the false twisting device, the twisting time and the stopping time of the yarn, and by controlling the time, The length of the winding portion, which is the over-untwisted portion and the twisted convergence portion, can be formed to be 20 cm or more. The formation of the yarn of the present invention will be explained using FIG. 2. In the figure, 2 and 2' are yarn feeding devices, 3 is a heating device, 4 is a false twisting device that performs intermittent twisting, and 5 is a false twisting device that performs intermittent twisting.
is a pulling device, and such a false twisting device is used. The yarn 1, which will become the core yarn, is supplied by the yarn feeding device 2, and the yarn 1', which will become the sheath yarn, is supplied by the yarn feeding device 2', and are pulled together before the heating device 3. , passed through the false twisting device 4 and then taken off by the take-up device 5. In this case, yarn 1' is supplied at a higher supercharging rate than that of yarn 1. Describing the case where such intermittent twisting with a specific processing operation is repeatedly performed, first, during the operation of the twisting device 4, the yarns 1 and 1' wound in the twisting direction are untwisted. It passes through the false twisting device 4 as it is without being subjected to any action and forms a twisted convergence section.
The yarn 1' supplied to the twisting area while the twisting device is not operating is supplied at a higher supercharging rate than the yarn 1, so that the yarn 1' is not wound before the yarn 1 is wound. The intertwist is propagated from the converging section and wound by the propagating twist. Then, the yarn 1' is wound around the yarn 1 by the propagation twist of the untwisted portion, and the yarn 1 is supplied to the twisting area after the false twisting device 4 is operated.
1' is strongly twisted by operating the false twisting device 4,
The yarn portion whose strong twist has been heat-set and has passed through the false twisting device 4 is reverse twisted to form an over-untwisted portion. As the yarns 1 and 1' having different supply amounts are wound while repeating twisting and stopping,
The degree of winding of the wound yarn 1 can be varied widely along the longitudinal direction, from a strong winding to almost no winding. The manufacturing principle of the present invention is as described above, but the false twisting device used as a specific manufacturing method may be used by rotating and stopping an ordinary mechanical spindle, but from the viewpoint of durability and response performance, Rather, it is preferable to use a frictional false twisting device or a false twisting device using an air swirling flow. As the yarn to be supplied to obtain the special wound yarn of the present invention, yarns with different dyed hues are used, or yarns with different dyeability or dyeability such as disperse dyeable yarn and cationic dyeable yarn are used. By using this, it is possible to obtain the special Chambray-like effect that is the object of the present invention. Furthermore, unlike the chambray-like effect due to a difference in hue, it is also possible to obtain a chambray-like effect in luster due to a difference in fiber material or a slight difference in the matting agent of the synthetic fiber yarn. Furthermore, if you want to emphasize the morphological effect without emphasizing the chambray-like effect, even if the same yarn is used for the core and sheath yarns, the twisting state is different between the core and sheath, so a difference in gloss can be obtained. It is also possible to obtain a so-called calm Chambray-like effect. In the present invention, a thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilament is usually used as the multifilament. For example, drawn yarns, semi-drawn yarns, and undrawn yarns of polyester, polyamide, etc. can be used, and even processed yarns that have been subjected to a crimp process such as false twisting can also be used. Furthermore, either the core thread or the sheath thread may be made of something other than thermoplastic synthetic fibers, such as rayon, or both the core thread and sheath thread may be made of something other than thermoplastic synthetic fibers. Furthermore, the core thread and the sheath thread may be composed of two or more multifilaments. Since the special wound yarn of the present invention has the above-mentioned structure, the sheath yarn covers and winds the core yarn, and the winding direction changes randomly at extremely long intervals, and the degree of winding is variable. varies along the longitudinal direction, and when it is made into a woven or knitted fabric, areas where the sheath yarns are emphasized and areas where the core yarns are emphasized are formed randomly on the fabric surface, and these differ due to differences in swirling properties. It is possible to give the surface of the fabric a three-dimensional striped-like morphological effect and a unique chambray-like effect. Hereinafter, the present invention will be specifically explained with reference to Examples. Example 1 Polyester cationic dye dyeable yarn 75d/24f (bright yarn with circular cross section: hereinafter referred to as yarn) and polyester filament yarn 75d/36f (semidal yarn with triangular cross section:
The yarn (hereinafter referred to as yarn) is guided from different supply rollers to a false twisting zone consisting of a heating plate, a false twisting device, and a delivery roller, and is subjected to an intermittent false twisting process using air swirling flow shown in Table 1. A special wound yarn shown in Table 2, in which the threads were wound, was obtained. In addition,
The fluid supply stop time was set at random times of 1.3 to 0.3 seconds for both the supply time and the stop time, based on instructions from a microcomputer into which a random signal had been input in advance.

【table】

【table】

[Table] This special wound yarn has a warp density of 80 pieces/inch and a weft density of
Woven in plain weave with 74 strands/inch, disperse dyed (turquoise)
When dyed in two colors with cationic dye (red), a striped Kasuri-like pattern was formed that had areas where the blue-green color was emphasized and areas where the red color was emphasized even from one direction, which was previously impossible to obtain. When viewed from another direction, it looks like a different pattern due to the twist direction and viewpoint.
Moreover, a fabric with a unique chambray-like effect and a three-dimensional surface appearance was obtained. Example 2 Polyester cationic dye dyeable yarn 75d/24f (circular cross-section semidal yarn; hereinafter referred to as yarn) and polyester filament yarn 100d/72f (circular cross-section semidal yarn; hereinafter referred to as yarn) were each dyed in different colors as shown in Fig. 2. The material is guided from the supply roller to a false twisting zone consisting of a heating plate, a false twisting device, and a delivery roller.
Intermittent false twisting using air swirling flow as shown in Table 3 was performed to obtain special wound yarns shown in Table 4 in which yarns were wound around yarns. For comparison, yarns with less degree of covering and winding were also collected under different processing conditions. To set the fluid supply stop time during intermittent false twisting,
The supply time and stop time were randomly used in the range of 1.0 to 0.3 seconds according to instructions from a microcomputer to which a random signal had been input in advance.

【table】

【table】

[Table] The yarns obtained in Example 2 and Comparative Example were used separately, and the warp density was 74 threads/2.54 cm and the weft density was 68.
The fabric using the yarn obtained in Example 2 was woven in a 2/2 twill structure with a length of 2.54 cm, and then dyed in two colors with a disperse dye (blue-green) and a cationic dye (red). Even when viewed from one direction, it forms a striped kasuri-like pattern with an emphasized part of blue-green and an emphasized part of red, and when viewed from the other direction, it looks like a different pattern due to the difference in the twist direction and viewpoint, and the surface morphology. It had a unique Chambray-like effect with a three-dimensional effect. On the other hand, the fabric obtained from the yarn of the comparative example only had an unchanged chambray effect in which blue-green and red colors were almost uniformly mixed.

[Brief explanation of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a schematic side view showing an example of the yarn of the present invention, and FIG. 2 is a schematic diagram showing an example of the method for manufacturing the yarn of the present invention. S: S twist winding part, Z: Z twist winding part, Y: core thread,
Y': Sheath yarn, 1, 1': Supply yarn, 2, 2': Yarn supply device, 4: Twisting device, 5: Yarn take-up device.

Claims (1)

[Scope of Claims] 1. A yarn consisting of a core yarn consisting of a multifilament and a sheath yarn consisting of a multifilament wound in alternating winding directions, the yarn having an S twist winding part and a Z twist winding part in the longitudinal direction of the yarn. Twisted winding portions exist with random lengths, S-twist winding portions and Z-twist winding portions with lengths of 20 cm or more are present, and the average covering winding ratio shown below is 4%.
A special wound yarn having the above structure and characterized in that the degree of winding varies along the longitudinal direction of the yarn. Average coverage winding rate: 10 threads of 3 m length are collected in succession, and then each of the core thread and sheath thread is measured under a load of 1/10 g/d at 10 arbitrary locations for each 10 cm of each 3 m thread. Let the lengths of be l ₁ and l ₂ , calculate the covering winding ratio from the following formula, and calculate the average value (X ₁ ) of the covering winding ratios at these 10 locations. Covering winding ratio (%) = l ₂ - _{l 1} / l ₁ × 100 Similarly, calculate the average value of the covering winding ratio (X ₂ to X ₁₀ ) of the other nine yarns, and The average of the average values (X ₁ to X ₁₀ ) of the locations is defined as the average covering winding rate (%). 2. Claim 1 in which the S-twist winding part and the Z-twist winding part with a length of 20 cm or more are present in 60% or more of the yarn length.
Special wound thread as described in section.