JPS6160189B2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed description of the invention]

The present invention relates to a method for manufacturing a polyester woven or knitted material. Polyester, especially polyalkylene terephthalate such as polyethylene terephthalate and polybutylene terephthalate, and polyester fibers based on these have various excellent properties〓〓〓〓〓
Therefore, it is widely used in woven and knitted fabrics. However, these conventional polyester fibers lack dryness, volume, and are not hydrophilic, so they have no choice but to cede one step or two to the comfort of natural nets, hemp, cotton, and knitted wool, and efforts have been made to bring them closer to these. There is. Recent advances in the production and processing technology of polyester fiber woven and knitted materials have made it possible to obtain woven and knitted materials that are quite similar in texture and appearance to natural fiber woven and knitted materials, but with a dry surface touch and a voluminous texture. There is still a large difference in terms of superior water absorption, etc., and this is one of the decisive differences in comfort between natural fiber woven and knitted fabrics and polyester fiber woven and knitted fabrics. Here, the dry feeling refers to, for example, the dry feeling characteristic of silk fiber fabrics, and is in contrast to the slimy feel of polyester fiber woven and knitted fabrics. Quantitative measurement is difficult at present, and is generally based on the touch of the fabric manufacturer. Although it is difficult to measure, it is an extremely important element in determining the properties and comfort of woven or knitted fabrics. Further, the voluminous feel refers to, for example, the voluminous feel peculiar to woolen fiber woven and knitted fabrics, and is in contrast to the flat and thin nature of polyester fiber woven and knitted fabrics. This voluminous feel particularly affects the quality of the woven or knitted fabric and its comfort, especially its feel. Furthermore, water absorption is an extremely important factor that affects the comfort of clothing when sweating. It has been well known that natural fibers retain moisture well due to their inherent water absorption ability. On the other hand, among man-made fibers, synthetic fibers in particular are widely used as clothing materials due to their excellent properties, but many of them have the disadvantage of poor water absorption because they are made of hydrophobic polymers. There is. In recent years, in order to improve the water absorption performance of such synthetic fibers, many studies have been conducted to develop hydrophilic synthetic fibers or to improve the hydrophilic properties of hydrophobic synthetic fibers. Several methods have been proposed, including a method of kneading a hydrophilic compound into a polymer, and a method of applying a hydrophilic compound to the fiber surface. However, in any case, trying to provide a sufficient effect on hydrophilicity reduces the excellent performance of the original polymer fiber, resulting in poor durability or when made into clothing as a woven or knitted fabric. It had various disadvantages in terms of texture, especially texture, such as a marked roughness and hardness. An object of the present invention is to improve such drawbacks of polyester woven and knitted fabrics, and to provide a method for producing polyester woven and knitted fabrics that have excellent water absorption, high bulkiness, and excellent hand feel. When at least two types of polyester filament yarns are mixed and intertwined and then false-twisted and crimped, the difference in elongation of the polyester filament yarns is
A part of the filaments constituting the wound yarn of a two-layer structure yarn in which one of the polyester filament yarns is used as a core yarn and the other filament yarn is wound around it by using a polyester filament yarn of 100% or more, It is a two-layer interlaced yarn that is randomly mixed and intertwined with the filament of the core, and the wound yarn as a whole is wound around the core yarn in a continuous alternating manner, and at least the wound yarn has A method for producing a woven or knitted polyester fabric, which comprises treating with an alkaline solution before or after knitting a hollow polyester fiber containing a micropore-forming agent. The present invention will be explained in detail below. The two-layer interlaced yarn used in the method of the present invention is a two-layered interlaced yarn in which one of at least two kinds of filament yarns that has been subjected to a false twist and crimp process is used as a core yarn, and the other filament yarn is wound around it. It is a layered structure yarn,
Although some of the filaments constituting the wound yarn are randomly mixed and intertwined with the filaments of the core, the wound yarn as a whole is wound continuously and alternately around the core yarn. Furthermore, regarding this, in the above-mentioned continuous alternating reversal winding, the twisting effect is reduced compared to complete twisting (winding), but on the other hand, the winding yarn alternates with respect to an extremely short pitch, that is, the yarn axis, Since a state in which the yarns intersect in opposite directions is obtained, an appropriate twisting effect is maintained. Furthermore, the winding state is looser than in the case of complete twisting, and since the winding yarn as a whole is reversed, a spun-like texture (bulge feeling and soft touch) also appears. Furthermore, despite its seemingly unstable structure, the filaments that make up the winding yarn and core yarn are partially mixed and intertwined with each other, making the yarn as a whole extremely stable (especially against straining force). ). 〓〓〓〓〓
FIG. 1 is a side view of a two-layer interlaced yarn used in the method of the present invention. As shown in FIG. 1, in the two-layer interlaced yarn, there is substantially no so-called helical winding portion where the wrapped yarn 2 is completely wrapped around the core yarn 1 one or more times.
Instead, the wound yarn 2 as a whole is continuously reversed alternately in the S and Z twist directions, and is 360 degrees with respect to the core yarn.
It is in a wrapped state of less than ゜. Moreover, the filament 3 that makes up the winding yarn
A part of the filament is arbitrarily mixed and intertwined with the filament constituting the core yarn. Since the two-layer intertwined yarn used in the present invention has such a yarn structure, as described above, even if the winding yarn is wound continuously and alternately, which is an incomplete winding method, the core A high degree of cohesion and integrity is created between the yarn and the wound yarn. Next, a textured yarn having such a structure can be obtained by subjecting at least two yarns having different elongation differences in a blended and intertwined state to a special drawing false twisting method. In this case, it is necessary to first obtain a wound two-layer twisted yarn structure by intertwining two or more raw yarns with different elongations and then twisting them using a false twisting tool. For this purpose, it is necessary that the yarn with lower elongation can be drawn and false-twisted, and at the same time, it is also necessary that the elongation difference between the yarns to be combined with it is 100% or more. Since the interlaced yarn is a mixture of two yarns with different elongations, it is difficult to form a two-layer structure even if the yarn is twisted as is. However, this problem can be solved by supplying a yarn that can be drawn and false-twisted to the yarn with lower elongation. In other words, by false-twisting and twisting at the same time as drawing, yarns with different elongations that are integrated by the interlacing process can have a tension difference due to the difference in elongation characteristics of both yarns against the false-twisting tension. While the filaments are separated again into a filament group with high tension and a filament group with low tension, some of the fibers of both groups become yarns partially intertwined in the length direction, which are twisted by a false twisting device. From this point of view, it is necessary that the filament yarn with lower elongation used as the core yarn can be drawn and false-twisted at least 1.2 times or more, but the most favorable result is obtained when the draw ratio is 1.4 times or more. can get. Furthermore, in order to obtain the wound two-layer twisted yarn structure at this time, the magnitude of the difference in elongation between the two yarns is relevant, and a difference in elongation that is larger than conventionally known is required. In other words, in the case of no entanglement, a difference in elongation of both yarns of about 50% is enough to create a two-layer structure, but in the case of interlacing, a difference in elongation of 100% or more is required. In particular, more favorable results can be obtained if the elongation difference is 150% or more. In this way, by providing a large elongation difference between the two yarns, the separation of the mixed fiber yarn into two layers due to drawing becomes apparent, and a two-layer twisted yarn structure is obtained for the first time in the twisted region. As a result, by untwisting the twisted yarn, a two-layer yarn with alternately twisted and wound structure (two-layer interlaced yarn) is created.
is obtained. Furthermore, in the method of the present invention, among the two yarns having the above-mentioned difference in elongation, at least the yarn with a large elongation (that is, corresponding to the wrapped yarn of the interlaced yarn of the two-layer structure) is finely divided. It is necessary to use hollow polyester fibers containing a pore-forming agent (it may be used for both the winding yarn and the core yarn). The shape of the hollow polyester fiber may be any shape as long as there is a continuous polymer layer in the direction of the fiber axis, and the shape of the outer periphery and the shape of the hollow portion may be any. The hollowness ratio of such hollow polyester fibers, that is, the ratio of the cross-sectional area of the hollow portion to the total apparent fiber cross-sectional area, is preferably in the range of 5 to 50%.
If the hollowness ratio is less than 5%, the water absorption performance will decrease, and the woven or knitted fabric that is the object of the present invention cannot be obtained. The hollow rate is
If it exceeds 50%, the hollow part becomes easily crushed, and once crushed, the water absorption performance decreases, which is not preferable. Further, as the above-mentioned micropore forming agent, a phosphorus compound or a sulfonic acid compound represented by the following general formula () or () is used. where M ¹ is a metal, especially an alkali metal,
Alkaline earth metal, Mn1/2, Co1/2 or
Zn1/2 is preferred, especially Li, Na, K,
Particularly preferred are Ca1/2 and Mg1/2. m is 0 or 1. V is a monovalent organic group, specifically an alkyl group, an aryl group, an alkylaryl group,
arylalkyl group or [-( _CH2 ) _-lO ] _-p R'' (where R'' is a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group or a phenyl group,
(l is an integer of 2 or more, p is an integer of 1 or more), etc. Z is -OH, -OV, ^-OM4 or a monovalent organic group, V' is the same as the definition of V above,
〓〓〓〓〓
V' and V may be the same or different, M ⁴ is the same as the definition of M ¹ above, and M ⁴ and M ¹ may be the same or different. Further, the monovalent organic group is the same as the definition of the organic group in V above, and may be the same as or different from V. Preferred specific examples of such phosphorus compounds include monomethyl disodium phosphate, dimethyl monosodium phosphate, monophenyl dipotassium phosphate,
Monomethyl monomagnesium phosphate, monomethylmanganese phosphate, polyoxyethylene (addition of 5 moles of EO), potassium lauryl ether phosphate (however, addition of 5 moles of EO means addition of 5 moles of ethylene oxide, and hereinafter the same meaning) ,
Polyoxyethylene (EO5 mole addition) Lauryl ether phosphate magnesium salt, Polyoxyethylene (EO50 mole addition) Methyl ether phosphate sodium salt, Monoethyl dipotassium phosphite, Diphenyl monosodium phosphite, Polyoxyethylene (EO50 molar addition) disodium methyl ether phosphite, monomethyl monosodium phenylphosphonate, monomethyl monopotassium nonylbenzenephosphonate, monomethyl monosodium phenylphosphinate, and the like. In the formula, M ² and M ³ are metals, and M ² particularly includes alkali metals, alkaline earth metals, Mn1/2,
Co1/2 or Zn1/2 is preferred, especially Li,
Particularly preferred are Na, K, Ca1/2, and Mg1/2,
As ^M3 , alkali metals or alkaline earth metals are particularly preferable, especially Li, Na, K, Ca1/
2. Mg1/2 is particularly preferred, and M ² and M ³ may be the same or different. n is 1 or 2.
W is a hydrogen atom or an ester-forming functional group,
The ester-forming functional group is -COOR (where R is a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or a phenyl group) or -CO[O( _CH2 ) _l ] _pOH (where l is an integer of the above, P is an integer of 1 or more), etc. are preferred. Preferred specific examples of such sulfonic acid compounds include sodium 3-carbomethoxybenzenesulfonate-5-sodium carboxylate and sodium 3-carbomethoxybenzenesulfonate-5.
- Potassium carboxylate, Potassium 3-carbomethoxybenzenesulfonate - Potassium 5-carboxylate, Sodium 3-hydroxyethoxycarbonyl benzenesulfonate - Sodium 5-carboxylate, Sodium 3-carboxybenzenesulfonate -5-Carboxylate acid sodium, 3-hydroxyethoxycarbonyl benzenesulfonic acid
Examples include Mg1/2 of Na-5-carboxylic acid, Na-3.5-dicarboxylic acid Na-benzenesulfonic acid, and Mg1/2 of Na-3.5-dicarboxylic acid benzenesulfonate. The appropriate amount of the phosphorus compound or sulfonic acid compound to be added is in the range of 0.3 to 15 mol%, and 0.5 to 5 mol% based on the acid component constituting the polyester to be added.
A mole % range is preferred. The two-layered interlaced yarn thus obtained is used to weave and knit, but it is treated with an alkaline solution before weaving (that is, at the yarn stage) or after weaving and knitting. By treatment with this alkaline solution, a portion of the microporous agent, or
All of it is dissolved and removed, forming micropores in the hollow polyester fibers. These micropores may exist only in a part of the cross section, but if possible,
It is desirable for the particles to be scattered throughout in order to improve water absorption. Further, the micropores are arranged in the fiber axis direction, and at least some of the micropores communicate with each other, so that the outer wall and inner wall of the hollow fiber as a whole are connected through the micropores. It's common knowledge. These micropores are scattered as described above in the cross section of the fiber, and whether or not at least a portion of them communicates with the hollow portion can be observed by magnifying the cross section of the fiber approximately 3000 times. Furthermore, the simplest and easiest way to check the communication state of micropores is to observe a single thread several centimeters long (usually 5 cm) at a magnification of about 100 times using a normal microscope. moderate amount of water (dyed water is more preferable)
You can easily check whether the water reaches the hollow part by dropping a drop of water. In the case of the hollow polyester fiber used in the present invention, it is observed that the water dropped as described above instantly reaches the hollow portion. Figure 2 shows the hollow polyester used in the present invention.
It is a figure which shows the micrograph of the external shape of a fiber. As shown in FIG. 2, the micropores are arranged in the axial direction of the fiber, and no fibrils are observed in the outer shape of the fiber, especially on the surface. The diameter of such micropores is preferably 0.01 to 3 μm, and the length is preferably 50 times or less than the diameter. If the diameter of the micropores is less than 0.01 μm, the water absorbing effect tends to decrease, and if the diameter exceeds 3 μm, sufficient fiber strength cannot be obtained. Furthermore, if the length of the micropores becomes longer than 50 times the diameter thereof, even if all other conditions are satisfied, the strength and fibrillation resistance of the fiber will decrease, which is not preferable. The polyester woven or knitted fabric obtained in this manner has hollow polyester fibers having micropores distributed at least in the wound threads (i.e., the outer layer) of the yarns constituting the woven or knitted fabric. Polyester fibers quickly absorb sweat. Furthermore, in addition to this high water-absorbing property, the woven or knitted fabric produced by the method of the present invention has the following characteristics:
Since it is composed of the above-mentioned two-layered interlaced yarn, it is bulky. Moreover, this bulkiness is not only due to the mere crimping of the fibers as in the past, but also because the winding yarns are wound around the core yarn in an alternating manner while mixing and crossing each other. , it is not bulky like conventional false twisted crimped yarns, but has spun-like bulkiness. Therefore, the obtained woven or knitted fabric also has bulkiness similar to the volume of a spun woven or knitted fabric. Further, as a result of using the hollow polyester fiber having micropores as the winding yarn, the resulting polyester woven or knitted fabric has a preferable dry feel. This is considered to be because the fine pores cause the frictional properties of the hollow polyester fibers to act to increase the difference between dynamic frictional resistance and static frictional resistance. Furthermore, since the present invention uses the specific agent as shown above as a micropore forming agent, there is a problem of a reduction in wear strength due to fibrils caused by micropores formed by treatment with an alkaline solution. It almost never occurs. As described above, according to the present invention, the water absorbency is excellent;
It was possible to obtain a polyester woven or knitted fabric with an excellent texture that is rich in volume and also has a dry feel. Examples will be explained below. Example: Elongation obtained by spinning at a speed of 3200 m/min
An elongation of 345% obtained by spinning a modified polyester containing 115% ordinary polyester filament yarn (118de/24fils) and sodium 3-carbomethoxybenzenesulfonate and sodium 5-carboxylate at a speed of 1380 m/min. A polyester filament yarn (225de/72fils) was drawn and entangled, and stretched and false-twisted. Using the obtained two-layer interlaced yarn, we weave a plain fabric with a plain weave standard of warp density 28 threads/cm and weft density 25 threads/cm, and scouring and relaxing using a spreading continuous relaxing machine (96°C, 12 minutes). 170℃,
After overfeeding and presetting for 45 seconds, a 15% weight loss was achieved by alkaline weight loss (treatment in a bath at 98°C and alkali concentration of 20 g/30 minutes). For comparison, a conventional plain woven fabric of alkali-reduced polyester was prepared, and the results are shown in Table 1.

[Table] 〓〓〓〓〓

【table】 [Brief explanation of the drawing]

FIG. 1 is a side view of a two-layer intertwined yarn used in the method of the present invention, and FIG. 2 is a microscopic photograph of the outer shape of the hollow polyester fiber used in the present invention. 1... Core thread, 2... Winding thread. 〓〓〓〓〓

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. When at least two types of polyester filament yarns are mixed and intertwined and then false-twisted and crimped, the difference in elongation of the polyester filament yarns is
A part of the filaments constituting the wound yarn of a two-layer structure yarn in which one of the polyester filament yarns is used as a core yarn and the other filament yarn is wound around it by using a polyester filament yarn of 100% or more, A two-layer interlaced yarn is randomly mixed and interlaced with the filament of the core, and the wound yarn as a whole is wound around the core yarn in a continuous alternating manner, and at least one of the two-layer interwoven yarn is A hollow polyester containing at least one selected from the group consisting of a phosphorus compound represented by the following general formula () and a sulfonic acid compound represented by the following general formula () as a micropore-forming agent in the wound yarn. 1. A method for producing a polyester woven or knitted material, which comprises weaving and knitting a polyester woven or knitted material using fibers, and treating it with an alkaline solution before or after the weaving and knitting. [In the formula, V is a monovalent organic group, Z is -OV ¹ , OM ⁴ or a monovalent organic group (however, V ¹ is a monovalent organic group, M ⁴ is a metal), M ¹ is a metal, and m is a Indicates 0 or 1. ] [Wherein, W is a hydrogen atom or an ester-forming functional group,
M ² and M ³ are metals, and n is 1 or 2. ]