JPS6153478B2 - - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention provides a method for producing a woolen fabric having an uneven pattern formed by the fabric portion and the raised portion by partially dissolving and removing the raised portion of a woolen cloth having raised portions on the surface. This invention relates to a method for producing a woolen bridge in which the fabric part and the raised part have uneven patterns of the same color or different colors by partially dissolving and removing the raised part of a yarn-dyed wool fabric having raised parts and coloring and discharging the removed part. It is something.

Conventionally, as a method for manufacturing woolen fabrics having this type of uneven pattern, there is a method in which a uniform nap is made to appear on the surface of the woolen fabric and then the napping is cut off using a design cutter. Due to its nature, it can cut accurately in the direction perpendicular to the design cutter blade, but
It is extremely difficult to cut in the parallel direction, and it is only possible to cut at an angle of about 40 degrees to the cutter blade. There was also the problem that the freedom of expression of pattern size and lines was restricted due to the size limitations of the head of the design cutter. Another method is to apply starch to a woolen fabric in a pattern and then raise it, only raising the parts that are not coated with starch, but this method allows you to express fine patterns. It is very difficult to do this, and unless you increase the amount of glue applied to the part where the glue is applied to make it harder, the part to which the glue is applied will also be affected by the raising effect, making it difficult to create a clear uneven pattern on the edge part. In soaping,
Disadvantages were recognized, such as poor desizing properties and the need for a considerable amount of time to completely remove the thickening agent.

The present invention was made for the purpose of obtaining a method for manufacturing a woolen fabric having an uneven pattern free from such defects, and in which the woolen fabric obtained by weaving or knitting is subjected to fulling, raising, and After being treated to prevent felting, an alkaline sizing agent containing a reducing bleach and a hygroscopic swelling agent is printed on the brushed surface in an arbitrary pattern using a screen method, steamed with saturated steam, and then washed with water. By chemically dissolving and removing the raised portions, it was possible to obtain a wool fabric having an extremely fine and clear uneven pattern consisting of raised portions and portions from which the raised portions have been removed.

However, the most important point in the present invention is that
By printing with an alkaline adhesive, the fabric that forms the base of the wool fabric is not affected in any way.
Only the raised part of the adhesive printing area is completely dissolved and removed.
However, the problem lies in how to prevent the base material from yellowing in the area where the nap has been removed.

As a result of various studies, we found that etherified galactomannan itself is alkali-resistant, and from the viewpoint of the fluidity of the adhesive, it can dissolve and remove only the naps in the printed area without affecting the base fabric. In order to ensure suitability as a sizing agent and to prevent yellowing of the base fabric from which the nap has been removed, it is effective to mix a reducing bleach, particularly a hydrosulfite formalin condensate, with the sizing agent. Furthermore, a size agent consisting only of the above composition has poor hygroscopicity, and there is a risk that the removal of the printed area of the size agent will become unstable. It has been found that good results can be obtained by adding .

That is, the alkaline sizing agent used in the present invention preferably includes a sizing agent mainly composed of etherified galactomannan (for example, Indalca PA30 manufactured by Cesarvinina) and a sizing agent mainly composed of a potato starch derivative ( For example, Printex S manufactured by Abebe Co., Ltd.) is blended in a ratio of 9:1 to 5:5, and an alkaline carbonate such as calcium carbonate, sodium carbonate, or sodium bicarbonate, especially sodium carbonate, is added to 100 g of the above-mentioned sizing agent. A mixture of 10 g to 10 g is used. In addition, the sizing agent contains 2 to 10 g of hydrosulfite, particularly a hydrosulfite formalin condensate abbreviated as Rongarit, as a reducing bleaching agent, and 2 to 10 g of hydrosulfite formalin condensate, which is abbreviated as Rongarit, and glycerin, urea, especially urea, as a hygroscopic swelling agent. An amount of 7 to 10g added to 100g of glue is used.

However, it goes without saying that the present invention is not limited to the above-mentioned range of processing agents, and that they can be selected and changed as desired depending on the purpose of the present invention. On the other hand, the wool fabric to which the method of the present invention is applied is a woven or knitted fabric that has been subjected to known processes such as fulling, raising, and preventing felting. , to make the raised hair obtained in the raising process more susceptible to the action of the alkaline sizing agent of the present invention, and to prevent the remaining part of the raised hair from being removed in the finishing or dyeing process after implementing the method of the present invention. This is to prevent the nap from turning into felt and spoiling the appearance.

A screen of 30 to 60 meshes having an arbitrary pattern is placed on the raised surface of the wool fabric thus obtained using a hand screen method or an auto screen method, and the alkaline sizing agent is applied to the surface with a Shore hardness of 40 to 50 degrees. Apply and print using a rubber cage,
Steam for 10-60 minutes in saturated steam at 100℃,
Next, the fabric is washed with water to dissolve and remove the naps on the area printed with the alkaline glue, and after drying, a desired dyeing finishing process is performed as required to complete all steps of the method of the present invention.

However, although the method of the present invention poses no problems when applied to woolen fabrics that are piece-dyed,
If this is applied directly to yarn-dyed wool fabric, the area printed with the alkaline paste will be affected by the reducing bleach in the paste, causing the color to disappear or the tone to change.

Therefore, as a result of further investigation into a method for dyeing yarn-dyed products, by printing with an alkaline glue to dissolve and remove the nap, color the area and finish the area and the area where the nap was not removed in the same or different colors. It has been found that the dye used for coloring and discharge printing should be a so-called non-dischargeable dye that is resistant to reducing bleaching agents.

Non-removable dyes are dyes with a concentration limit that does not cause a decrease in the strength of wool or other materials. , refers to a dye that does not cause color change or fading even when dyed at a dye concentration of about 0.05%, and is named Sprano Blue-BL (Bayer Color Index No. 1).
Acid Blue 59), Rhodamine B (Color Index No. Basic Violet 10, manufactured by Hodogaya Chemical Co., Ltd.), and Sumilight Yellow BC (Color Index No. Direct Yellow 28, manufactured by Sumitomo Chemical Co., Ltd.) are representative non-removable dyes. Are known.

In the case of coloring and discharge printing using such non-removable dyes, there is usually a limitation that the wool will not be dyed unless the sizing agent is made acidic, but the present invention uses dyes selected from acid dyes, basic dyes, direct dyes, etc. In addition, a non-removable dye that does not lose its color or change its color tone in the presence of alkali and reductive bleaching agent is added to an alkaline paste containing about 3 parts by weight of sodium carbonate per 100 parts by weight of the paste, and the color discharge dye is It was found that sufficient dyeing was achieved by applying this technique.

That is, on the raised side surface of a yarn-dyed wool fabric that has been subjected to shrinking, raising, and felting prevention processing by a known method,
A screen of 30 to 60 meshes with an arbitrary pattern is placed using the hand screen method or the auto screen method, and an alkaline solution containing the same kind and amount of reducing bleach and hygroscopic swelling agent as mentioned above, and the desired amount of non-removable dye of the desired color tone is placed. The glue has a Shore hardness.
Apply and print using a 40-60 degree rubber cage,
Steam for 10-60 minutes in saturated steam at 100℃,
The entire process is completed by washing with water to dissolve and remove the naps in the area printed with the alkaline glue, coloring and discharging the area with a non-removable dye, and then performing a finishing process.

Next, examples of the method of the present invention will be shown. The woolen fabric used in each example was 500g/100g after undergoing the steps of washing, shrinking, washing, boiling, raising, drying, shearing, felting prevention processing, and drying using known methods.
It is a woolen fabric of m. All figures in the middle part of the examples are parts by weight.

Example 1 Through a 36-mesh screen with an arbitrary pattern on the raised side of a woolen fabric, 15% solution of etherified galactomannan sizing agent 40 parts 30% solution of starch derivative sizing agent by Potato 5 parts urea 7 parts sodium carbonate 5 parts An alkaline glue consisting of 7 parts water, 36 parts total, 100 parts was applied and printed using a rubber cage with a Shore hardness of 40 degrees, steamed for 30 minutes in saturated steam at 100°C, and then washed with water and dried. Ivy.

As a result, the nap in the area printed with the alkaline glue was completely dissolved and removed, and the base fabric was exposed in this area, and no yellowing or other phenomena were observed.

Example 2 A 15% solution of etherified galactomannan sizing agent, 30 parts of a 30% solution of a starch derivative sizing agent by Potato, 15 parts of urea, 5 parts of sodium carbonate, was applied to the raised side of a wool fabric through a screen of 60 meshes having an arbitrary pattern. An alkaline glue consisting of 7 parts water, 39 parts total, 100 parts was applied and printed using a rubber cage with a Shore hardness of 60 degrees, steamed for 20 minutes in saturated steam at 100°C, and then further washed with water and dried. Ivy.

As a result, the raised part of the alkaline adhesive printing area is
It was dissolved and removed leaving a slight raised base close to the base fabric, and no yellowing or other phenomena were observed in this area.

Further, as a result of dyeing the fabric according to a known wool fabric dyeing method, both the areas from which the nap was removed and the areas from which the nap was not removed were able to be dyed uniformly and beautifully.

Example 3 A 60-mesh screen having an arbitrary pattern was applied to the raised surface of a wool fabric that had been pre-dyed in silver gray with a known acid dye and subjected to the same shrinking, raising, treatment, etc. as in each of the above Examples. 15% solution of etherified galactomannan thickening agent 35 parts 30% solution of starch derivative thickening agent by Mazu 10 parts Urea 5 parts Sodium carbonate 3 parts Rongarit 7 parts Supranor Blue BL 0.12 parts (Bayer Color Index No. Acid Blue 59) A non-removable dye-containing alkaline glue consisting of 100 parts (39.88 parts in total) of water was applied and printed using a rubber cage with a Shore hardness of 60 degrees, steamed for 30 minutes in saturated steam at 100°C, and then washed with water and dried. I went.

As a result, the raised part of the alkaline adhesive printing area was completely dissolved and removed, and the base fabric part was colored and discharged with a non-removable dye and dyed a beautiful deep blue color.
No change was observed in the silver gray color tone due to the pre-dying in the areas where the nap was not removed.

As described in detail above, the method of the present invention includes fulling,
An alkaline glue containing a reducing bleach and a hygroscopic swelling agent is printed in a pattern on the raised side surface of a wool fabric that has been brushed and treated to prevent felting, and then steamed with saturated steam to create the glue stamp. This method dissolves and removes the naps on the printed part to create an uneven pattern on the surface of the fabric.Furthermore, for pre-dyed fabrics, a non-removable dye is contained in the alkaline glue to dissolve and remove the naps and color the fabric. A discharge dyeing technique is used to obtain a fabric with an uneven pattern on the surface where the raised part and the unremoved part are dyed in the same color or a different color, which is different from conventional physical or mechanical methods. By using a completely different chemical method, it can be easily carried out using existing equipment as is, regardless of whether it is a piece-dyed wool fabric or a pre-dyed wool fabric. The method of the invention has an excellent feature in that even if the pattern is quite delicate, the boundary between the part where the nap has been removed and the part where the nap has not been removed appears as an extremely clear uneven pattern on the surface of the fabric.

Claims (1)

[Scope of Claims] 1. An alkaline sizing agent containing an alkaline sizing agent containing a reducing bleach and a hygroscopic swelling agent is applied in a pattern on the raised side surface of a wool fabric that has been subjected to shrinkage, napping, and felting prevention processing. A method for producing a woolen fabric having an uneven pattern on its surface, which comprises printing, steaming with saturated steam, and washing with water to dissolve and remove the naps in the paste-printed area. 2. An alkaline sizing agent containing a reducing bleach, a hygroscopic swelling agent, and a non-removable dye is printed in a pattern on the raised side surface of a yarn-dyed wool fabric that has been subjected to fulling, raising, and felting prevention processing, and is then heated with saturated steam. A method for manufacturing a woolen fabric having an uneven pattern on its surface, which comprises steaming with water, washing with water, dissolving and removing the naps in the glue-printed area, and coloring and discharge printing the removed areas.