JPH05106178A - Production of color jeans wear - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To obtain a colorful jeans wear by subjecting both surfaces of a cellulosic fiber cloth to simultaneous dyeing and waterrepelling treatment, printing a surface of the cloth with a reactive dye, sewing the cloth and washing the product. CONSTITUTION:A cellulosic fiber cloth is immersed in a solution containing a water-repellent (e.g. fluorine-containing agent) incorporated with a reactive dye to effect the dyeing and water-repelling treatment of both surfaces of the cloth. A surface of the dyed cloth is printed with a reactive dye and steamed to fix the dye. The cloth is sewn and the product is washed e.g. by known stone washing treatment to obtain a colorful color jeans wear having a pepper- and-salt tone characteristic to jeans.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

FIELD OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a method for producing colorful jeans garments.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art A conventional jeans garment is obtained by dyeing a cellulosic fiber cotton yarn with an indigo dye, sewing a woven fabric using the yarn and an undyed yarn on the garment, and then washing. It was Since the thread dyed with the indigo dye is dyed in a ring shape in a blue to navy blue color tone, and the central part of the thread is not dyed, the garment sewn with the cloth is washed and the surface layer dyed portion of the thread is dyed. When removed, the undyed part is exposed at random and has a frosty appearance peculiar to jeans.

However, in the above-mentioned dyeing method, when the production lot quantity is small, the cost is high, and there is a dislike of lack of adaptability in order to quickly respond to the fashion and market conditions due to the production of a wide variety of small quantities.

As a method of compensating for the above-mentioned drawbacks of the dyeing method,
In Japanese Patent Publication No. 59-1831, a printing dyeing method is applied, a dye containing a sizing agent is printed and dried, and then the printing surface of the fiber cloth is fluffed by an emery process to form a printing dye or sizing agent. There is disclosed a method in which a part is removed, and thereafter, fixing and washing treatments are carried out by a usual method to give a frost color tone and a soft texture effect to the cloth.

[0005]

An application of the above-mentioned print dyeing method is a method suitable for high-mix low-volume production with a small number of production lots. However, when it comes to colorful jeans clothing, there is room for improvement in that the back side of the clothing remains white.

[0006] The present invention has been made for the purpose of providing a new method for producing colored jeans garments in which the back side is also colorful.

[0007]

In order to achieve the above object, the method for producing color jeans clothing according to the present invention comprises:
A step of immersing a cloth woven from cellulose fibers in a water repellent solution mixed with a reactive dye and dyeing both surfaces of the cloth together with a water repellent treatment, and a step of printing one surface of the cloth with the reactive dye. It is characterized in that it comprises a step of sewing the obtained cloth on clothing and a step of washing the sewn product.

[0008]

[Working] As the cellulosic fibers, cotton fibers, regenerated cellulose fibers and the like may be used alone or in combination, and a core spun yarn in which spandex, which is an elastic fiber, is used as a core and the periphery thereof is covered with cellulosic fibers may be used.
When a cloth woven with such fibers is dipped in a water repellent solution containing a reactive dye, the front and back are dyed. Simultaneously with the dyeing, water repellent is applied to both sides of the fabric with a water repellent.
The water repellency of the fabric determines the range of dyeing that reaches inside the fiber in the next printing step. In other words, the quality of the marbled tone after washing is determined. JIS for good marbling
-L1092 "Test method for waterproofness of textiles" 5.2 The water repellency value obtained by the water repellency test (spray method) is preferably 60 or more. When the water repellency value is about 40, it is dyed deep inside the fiber, so after washing,
It is difficult to get a good marbling tone. The water repellent may be any of fluorine type, paraffin type and silicon type.

The above-mentioned printing process may be carried out by any of a screen printing machine, a roll printing machine, a rotary printing machine and the like. The reactive dye of the printing paste may be the same color or different color as the reactive dye in the water repellent solution, and the concentration can be freely selected. However, by making them different colors, it is possible to make the most of the characteristic of printing on the dyed fabric, and it is possible to exhibit the strange color of the front and back.

After the textile thus printed is sewn on pants or jumpers, the sewn product is subjected to stone washing using natural pumice, chemical washing using pumice impregnated with high concentration of chlorine, and amylase enzyme. Randomly removing a part of the dyed part by the printing process by washing with a known washing method such as biowashing using a liquid prepared with an acid gives a color jeans garment with a jeans-specific marbling tone. is there.

[0011]

【Example】

<Example 1> The cloth used is a warp yarn, a weft yarn of 30 count cotton yarn, and has a warp density of 132 / inch and a weft density of 72 /
It is woven into an inch twill weave and subjected to normal desizing, scouring, bleaching and mercerizing.

An aqueous solution of a water repellent mixed with a reactive dye is 0.5 g / reactive dye ProcionRed H-3BN (manufactured by ICI).
1, reduction inhibitor sodium metanitrobenzene sulfonate 5g / l, dye fixing agent sodium bicarbonate 5g / l, water repellent emulsion Riken Paran FGX-10 (manufactured by Miki Riken Kogyo Co., Ltd.) was added respectively 10, 30, 60g / l, Water repellent component concentration is (A) 3.3 g / l, (B) 9.9 g / l,
(C) Three kinds of solutions of 19.8 g / l were prepared. And squeeze each of the above fabrics with a mangle and squeeze 8
It was squeezed at 0% and dried in a hot air dryer at 120 ° C for 2 minutes. When the water repellency was measured by the JIS L-1092 spray method, (A) was 40, (B) was 60, and (C) was 80.
Met.

Next, a printing paste having the following formulation (viscosity 15000 cps) was used on one side of the above-mentioned cloth, and printing was carried out by a rotary printing machine. The processing speed was 20 m / min with a mesh 80 of a rotary cylinder and a solid handle.

[Printing paste formulation] Reactive dye Procion Red P-8B (manufactured by ICI) 7% Procion Brown P-BD (manufactured by ICI) 1% Sodium meta-nitrobenzenesulfonate 1% Urea 10% Sodium bicarbonate 4% Sodium alginate 6% water 71% After printing, the fabrics are 1
It was treated at 40 ° C for 60 seconds. Further, a steaming treatment was carried out at 100 ° C. for 10 minutes to fix the dye to the cloth. Then, the unfixed dye, the sizing agent, the water repellent and the like on each cloth were washed off with a water washing machine. And each is an anionic softener parasofener
W-58 (manufactured by Ohara Palladium Co., Ltd.) was dipped in a 50 g / l aqueous solution, squeezed with a mangle, and then set dried at 120 ° C. for 2 minutes. The cloth obtained by the above method was sewn into pants, and the sewn product was washed with a washer material containing natural pumice at 50 ° C. for 70 minutes, washed with water and dried to obtain a product. This trouser had a light pink color on the back and a brown surface with a random marbled pattern, but the trousers made of the fabric with water repellency of 40 in (A) above had a solid pattern overall. Although the tone remained, it was not in a suitable marbling state, but the pants made of the fabrics of the above-mentioned (B) and (C) having the water repellency of 60 and 80 were in good marbling state without such a phenomenon. ..

<Embodiment 2> A cotton yarn of 7 count is used as a warp and a weft, and is woven into a woven fabric having a warp density of 62 yarns / inch and a weft density of 43 yarns / inch, and is subjected to usual desizing, scouring, bleaching and mercerizing. The cloth which was given was used.

This cloth was immersed in a water repellent aqueous solution containing a reactive dye. As a water repellent aqueous solution mixed with reactive dyes, water repellent emulsion RIKEN PARAN FGX-10 40
g / l, reactive dye Cibacron Navy 2R (manufactured by Ciba Geigy) 0.5 g / l, reduction inhibitor sodium meta-nitrobenzene sulfonate 5 g / l, dye fixing agent sodium bicarbonate 5
It was set to g / l. The water repellency of the cloth subjected to the drying treatment in the same manner as in Example 1 after immersion was 80.

A solid pattern of the mesh 80 was printed on one surface of this cloth at a speed of 30 m / min using a printing paste having the following formulation, and the treatment after printing was carried out in the same manner as in Example 1.

Next, the printed fabric was sewn into trousers, and the sewn product was stonewashed. As a result, jeans trousers with a light blue color on the back side and a navy color on the front side in a random marbling tone could be obtained. It was

[Printing paste prescription] Reactive dye Cibacron Navy 2R 6.5% Procion Brown P-BD 1.7% Urine 10.0% Sodium meta-nitrobenzenesulfonate 1.0% Sodium bicarbonate 4.0% Sodium alginate 6 0.0% water 70.8% <Example 3> Using a cloth having the same ligature structure as that of Example 2, this cloth is dipped in an aqueous solution of a water repellent mixed with the following reactive dye and squeezed at a squeezing ratio of 80%. 120 with hot air dryer
It was dried at ° C for 2 minutes.

Paraffin water repellent Rikenzol K-310 (manufactured by Miki Riken Kogyo) 70 g / l Reactive dye Cibacron Yellow 6G (manufactured by Ciba Geigy) 30 g / l Sodium meta-nitrobenzene sulfonate 5 g / l Dye fixing agent Sodium bicarbonate 5 g / l This fabric had a water repellency of 90.

On one surface of the cloth, a printing paste (I) having the following formulation
(II) and (II) were printed at a speed of 30 m / min with a rotary printing machine using two stripe patterns (3 cm intervals) of a mesh 80 of a rotary cylinder.

[Printing paste formulation (I)] Reactive dye Cibacron Black sG 7% Urine 10% Sodium meta-nitrobenzenesulfonate 1% Sodium bicarbonate 4% Sodium alginate 6% Water 72% [Printing paste formulation (II)] Reactive dye Cibacron Brown 6R 7% Urine 10% Sodium meta nitrobenzene sulfonate 1% Sodium bicarbonate 4% Sodium alginate 6% Water 72% In this way, a 3 cm interval stripe pattern consisting of two colors, black and brown, was printed at 100 °. C, steaming treatment is performed for 10 minutes to fix the dye, and the unfixed dye, sizing agent, water repellent, etc. on the cloth are washed off through a water washing machine, and then the silicone softener Matsumoto Silicon Softener N-850 (Matsumoto Yushi Seiyaku) Dip) in a 30 g / l aqueous solution and squeeze at a squeezing rate of 80%,
It was set and dried at 150 ° C for 1 minute.

An upper garment was sewn using this cloth. Stonewashing the sewn product yielded a random, marbled, colorful jeans garment with a yellow backside and a black and brown print pattern on the frontside, revealing a yellow hue.

<Example 4> The cloth used was made by aligning two 30-count cotton yarns as warps and wefts, and using a warp density of 4
It was woven into an ox structure having 9 yarns / inch and weft density of 39 yarns / inch, and subjected to usual desizing, scouring, bleaching and mercerizing.

This cloth was dipped in a water repellent aqueous solution containing the following reactive dye, squeezed with a squeezing ratio of 80%, and dried with a hot air dryer at 120 ° C. for 2 minutes.

Water repellent Riken Softener BR-SP (manufactured by Miki Riken Kogyo) 70 g / l Reactive dye Cibacron Red BG (manufactured by Ciba Geigy) 10 g / l Reduction inhibitor sodium meta nitrobenzene sulfonate 5 g / l Dye fixing agent Sodium bicarbonate 5 g / L The water repellency of this fabric was 60.

One surface of the cloth was printed at a speed of 10 m / min with a screen printing machine provided with a 100 mesh screen polka dot pattern using a printing paste having the following formulation.

[Printing paste formulation] Reactive dye Cibacron Navy blue 2R 7% Urine 10% Sodium meta-nitrobenzenesulfonate 1% Sodium bicarbonate 4% Sodium alginate 6% Water 72% Steaming treatment at 100 ° C for 10 minutes To fix the dye, and then wash off the unfixed dye, paste, water repellent, etc. with a water washing machine, dip it in a softener RIKEN SOFTNER AS-270 (Miki Riken) 30g / l aqueous solution and squeeze at a squeezing rate of 80%. It was set and dried at 150 ° C for 1 minute.

An upper garment was sewn using the cloth and subjected to the same stonewashing treatment as in Example 1. The obtained jeans garment had a light pink back surface and a light marbled polka dot pattern on a light pink background.

The results of measuring the dyeing fastness and the like of this jeans garment are as shown in the table below, which was not much different from the conventional textile printing products.

Item Measurement Method Result Lightfastness JIS L-0842 Discoloration / Fade Level 4 Washing Fastness JIS L-0844 Discoloration / Discoloration Level 5 Contamination 4 ~ 5 Water Fastness JIS L-0846 Method B Discoloration / Discoloration Level 5 Contamination 4 ~ 5 Sweat fastness JIS L-0848 Acid discoloration / fade 5 Contamination 4 ~ 5 Alkaline discoloration 5th Contamination 4 ~ 5 Friction fastness JIS L-0849 Dry 4th grade Wet 2nd grade

[0032]

EFFECT OF THE INVENTION In the method for producing a color jeans garment of the present invention, a cloth woven from cellulosic fibers is first immersed in a water repellent solution containing a reactive dye.
The fabric will be dyed not only on the front side but also on the back side, and in combination with the printing process performed on the front side in the next step, it is extremely excellent in that it makes colorful jeans clothes with excellent fashionability. Further, since the water-repellent treatment with the water-repellent agent is performed at the same time as the above-mentioned dyeing, the dyeing by the printing in the next step is stopped at the fiber surface layer portion, and the good marbling tone can be surely exhibited by the post-washing. Moreover, since the surface side of the cloth once dyed is subjected to printing processing, when the color of the reactive dye in the water repellent solution and the color of the reactive dye of the printing paste are different, the colors of the front and back of the clothing are subtly or Since it can be changed remarkably, it can be made more fashionable. It can be said that it is a very effective manufacturing method in that it can immediately respond to trends and demands at any given time without impairing the adaptability to high-mix low-volume production, which is a feature of textile printing. In addition, rather than sewing a printed fabric that has a marbling tone that is characteristic of jeans, rather than sewing it, the sewn product of the printed fabric is used to develop the marbling tone that is peculiar to jeans. It is excellent in that the pruning effect of pumice stones works more effectively at the sewn seams, etc., and a natural marbling tone is exhibited.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. A step of immersing a cloth woven from cellulosic fibers in a water repellent solution mixed with a reactive dye to dye both sides of the cloth and perform a water repellent treatment, and printing one side of the cloth with the reactive dye. A method for producing a color jeans garment, which comprises a step of processing, a step of sewing the obtained cloth into clothing, and a step of washing the sewn product.